Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

gatorgrly · August 2005

Does anyone know if there has ben a recall on the Sebring Convertible tops? Mine started to unravel 3 months after buying it used in October 2001. There have been two consumer reports locally in Tampa here but I can find nothing on a recall. Any help out there?

mhl57 · August 2005

recently my ac started blowing warmer air. while investigating, i noticed that when i turn on the ac, the radiator/condenser fan does not start. however, when the engine temp warms up, the fan works just fine. i wondering if anyone knows how to troubleshoot why the fan is not working when the ac is on? my understanding is that whenever the ac is on, the condenser fan should also be on. I did try swapping the high and low rad fan relays thinking one of them might have been bad, but no improvement. i did switch them back just ot be safe.

second question is could this be related to the ac not working? when i turn on the ac, the compressor also turns on, so i don't think it is a bad compressor.

this is a 1996 sebring convertible jxi with the 2.5 liter engine.

any help or thoughts would be appreciated. thanks alot.

janetd53 · August 2005

my '97 Sebring convertible just started to do the same thing.....if standing at a red light with a/c on, it starts to over heat....when I start moving again, the temp goes back down....bad smell of leaking antifreeze outside the car. ( the thermostat is right behind the radiator fill cap...sticking up)

I have just placed a cardboard board under the car to see where the antifreeze is leaking from.....it's apparently not leaking by the thermostat.....I am confused, as I see no other leaks at the moment, and don't want to get hosed for a water pump or some other expensive part if that's not the problem.

let me know if you hear anything from anyone else, would you? thanks.......
you can reply to my email even........

janet

jed1967 · August 2005

Hi Janet,

Sorry - just now saw this reply. Tried to do the e-mail thing but I got some silly Internal Server Error.

The fact that when you are moving, the car cools down, is probably a major clue that a "Mopar" guy would be able to tell you right away what it is. Of course, I'm NOT that guy, so I will tell you what I know from what I've recently read / discussed with others.

I talked to a Chrysler guy, and one other guy who I'd call somewhat of a gearhead, and both guys said "It's probably your thermostat". I really didn't want to replace it on my own, because I'd hate to mess it up - but I'm going to give it a go tomorrow (wife's orders).

Have you figured out where your leak is coming from yet? Haynes Automotive Repair Manual (library, or $16 at AutoZone) has a troubleshooting section that might help. I'd stay away from Chilton's because Haynes kind of gets down to my level more than Chilton's does. Anyway, I don't have a leak, but if you do, it could be anythin gfrom damaged hoses or loose clamps, to your water pump, or a radiator core leak. They list other possibilities as well depending on if it's an "External" or "Internal" leak.

If it is your thermostat, it's not so much that it'll leak from there - if it's stuck open, or shut, it needs replaced. If it's stuck open, you can tell because your car takes a long time to warm up - replace the thermostat. Another test is if your car is running hot, and you put your hand on the upper radiator hose, and the hose isn't hot, your thermostat is stucked CLOSED and you need to replace it. If the car is hot, and the upper hose is hot, then your thermo is doing its job and it's something (gulp) else. From what you're telling me, I have a sneaking suspicion that it isn't your thermo - hopefully someone who's more knowledgeable than me will read this and help us out.

One more thing - you might even just check the radiator cap. I pulled mine off and it was really gross and needed replaced.

drivemopar · August 2005

This sounds just like what happened to my 97 sebring. If replacing the thermostat doesn't work, it's mosy likely the infamous "early-model sebring blown head gasket."

jreich · August 2005

Did you ever figure out what this problem was? I seem to be getting the exact same problem, and the repair shop is equally stumped. They only seem to be able to test it once per day -- after that, it doesn't burn out the fuse at all, and everything is good. Help!

kybondgirl · August 2005

Just wondering if anyone had any ideas of what could be causing my A/C to not work. I had my boyfriend check the freon and it seems to be full. He also checked my coolant level and while it wasn't full, he said it wasn't low enough to be causing the A/C to not work. The blower works fine, but it is blowing warm air instead of cold. It sometimes works when I'm on the interstate, but not all the time and when it does work, it's not as cool as it should be. I'd appreciate any help! Thanks.

bullit03 · August 2005

gogga, don't know what year Sebring you have. Mine is 2002 LX 4-cyl. I experienced "crunching noise as well. Lots of time and tries were executed. The cure for mine was as follows. Remove the disc brake pads on the front wheels, apply black synthetic brake lubricant to the back sides of all pads and inbetweent shim plates if used. Replace pads. the crunching goes away until road wash from rain, car washes, snowy roads etc. exhausts the application of the synthetic lubricant. I've done it several times in 45,000 miles. It works for my case.

gregs1 · August 2005

I've got a '96 sebring and noticed that the a/c did not work at times. I did notice that the fan switch was difficult to turn, and if I didn't get it positioned exactly in the right position for the desired fan speed, then the green a/c button located in the center of the fan switch did not turn on and the fan blew hot air. I pulled the knob off and sprayed it with contact cleaner, which seemed to help, The switch is still stiff to turn. Hope this helps.

pengemex · August 2005

Hi, I have a Sebring Convertible (year 2000) and I lost the ignition key together with the remote control. It was the only key I had. I live in Hungary and the only one Chrysler dealer in my country is extremely expensive. Can any of you help me on how to get the pin code or a new working key? I have all the owner papers to prove my ownership of the car. Thank you in advance. Cheers, Zsolt

kevin14 · August 2005

Hi all. My father purchased a 1998 Chrysler Sebring brand new. He recently purchased a Dodge Durango and wants to sell this gorgeous car to me for a couple grand. There is only 1 problem. At least once or twice a month, it dies or just simply won't start. We have had 3 trusted garages look at it and cannot find anything. I want to buy this but I need to find out whats wrong? Any suggestions?

Kevin

2001astrolt · August 2005

:confuse: Both front doors - top rear 'clip' seems to be worn out. Panel pops off in this area whenever door is closed with any amount of force. :confuse:

Anyone else with this problem, and is there a reasonable fix for a do-it-yourselfer?

Thanks

kmckinley · August 2005

Jackb1:
A common problem with these cars is carbon buildup on the EGR valve. The valve remains open and introduces too much exhaust gas back to the cylinders. It is not noticable at speed, only at idle. EGR valves can be had for around $70 at Kragens and are not all that difficult to replace. Before you spend the money tho, remove the valve and clean it (soak it) with carburator cleaner. Be careful not to get the electronics wet. Let us know how it goes! Let it dry & reinstall. I think you will see an improvement.
Let us know how it goes & Good luck!

atergia · August 2005

I have a 2000 sebring lxi and ill be driving down the road and all of the sudden the rpms will drop to 0 as if the car stalls then will restart. Everything else is still on like the radio and every thing and the local mechanic said that without the check engine light coming on its hard to tell whats wrong so i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if anyone may possibly know whats wrong with it

onenoble · September 2005

Hi, I have the same problem with my 1996 sebring. The power and anything is working, but sometimes it will not start for a couple of hours. Please Help!!!!

jed1967 · September 2005

Yikes. Well, before I get too nervous, I have one more thing I need to try. I just finished putting the whole thing back together because when I replaced my thermostat, the o-ring on the radiator drain plug broke. I couldn't pull the plug where it was, so I had to pull the radiator to get it out.

I just got it back together and added coolant directly into the neck leading up to the radiator cap, and I checked the reservoir. Then I drove it for a while, but it got hot again. When I stopped the car, I saw the reservoir showed a bit low, but above "add" - And I didn't see any apparent leaks. I added a bit more fluid to the reservoir, but my question is this. Haynes and Chilton say to bleed the system. This model is not equipped with a bleed valve that I know of. How do you bleed the darn thing? I'm wondering if this is my problem. I guess next on my list is either the water pump or the radiator core is blocked or something. But I know it's not a leak, the thermostat or the radiator cap.

I hate cars.

jed1967 · September 2005

Whoo hoo - my neighbor's buddy across the inlet from where we live is a Mopar guy. He's going to see if he can get him to take a look...

ksdanyel · September 2005

my sister-in-law is having the same problem out of her 97 Lxi, she has changed several different sensors with no results. If you find any results from yours please let me know. :lemon:

pastordon · September 2005

Did you get the needed repairs? I have same car with same problems. After about 6-10 minutes the tach will come up as well as the Odometer. Then once I turn the car off for a few minutues and restart, it disappears again.

czech · September 2005

I was wondering if anyone has instructions on how to program the remote to 2005 sebring. I bought a vehicle and received one remote and I am in the process of buying another, but need the directions of how to program it.

I appreciate all the help

craneti1 · September 2005

I have the '97 JX, but the same resolution my apply. I had the same issue. I bought a thermostat, radiator and water pump. Turned out to be a loose timing belt. I know it sounds crazy, but the water pump is turned by the timing belt. I tightened the tension pulley and resolved the issue. It took a full Saturday to fix it.

jasonk0023 · September 2005

problem my 96 sebring jus started to act up when i was driving it just died an when i started it back up the rpm were revin for no reason i stopped into the gas station an shut it off for like 10 minutes started it back up an it was revin up to 1 - 1/2 and it continued i drove it down the street to my house an it was jerking alittle bit and hard to drive an was starting to die out...i dont know why can any1 please fill me in with any solutions or jus tell me wut it is an how much...thanx

luchii · September 2005

I have a 98 LXi and i was having the same exact problem and did everything your doing. Maybe this will help. After checking the fuse for the radiator fan we discovered it was shorted out, so it was replaced drove the car for a while and was still getting hot. Turns out the fuse will be ok for about 1 minute or 2 then it will blow out. My problem was the radiator fan motor was bad, that was causing my fuse to short out. you have to make sure the main fan is actually working because you might be looking at it from a certain angle and it looks like its on but it might not be. Getting a new radiator fan is your best bet however if your gonna try buying a brand new its goin to cost about $300-400 because they sell you all the components that go with it that you dont really need if it just your fan. i got mine from a junk yard for 80 bucks and now my temp has stayed normal.

sunandwaves · September 2005

My rear window defroster stopped working I have a 2002Sebring GTC convertible with 25K miles on it, is this still factory covered? the fuses are all ok. I also lost the power on my fan at all speeds less than max which i guess is the blower motor resistor switch. Anybody solve the rear defroster problem?

kstornado · September 2005

Same thing happened to my 2004 Sebring LX convertible last winter. Took it in for repair and was told the connection broke between the....(now I'm not mechanically inclined so keep that in mind.......) little connection box on the rear windo and the wire that goes across the window. Mine was under warranty so I'm not sure how much it cost.

I think mine could have been loose and when I washed my car at the carwash the pressure from the power washer could have cause the break. I'm extra carefull now when I use the power washer to use just low pressure on the rear window.

jed1967 · September 2005

Well, I know my fan is running - it's running all the time! Anyway, a buddy of mine called his Mopar friend who said that the system is probably "air bound" - I am having a heck of a time figuring out how to bleed this thing. I'd like to find some sort of coupling I can put on the system that has maybe a bleed valve on it - because this tihng does NOT come with a bleed valve that I can see. OR - I know of one case where you can get a radiator cap with a funnel attached that you can use as an airlock to "burp" your system and get the air out. Does anyone know of any sort of equipment like this? I'm having a hard time finding something. I might just see if I can engineer something.

lvssummer · September 2005

I haven't had that problem with my 2004 but did have to have the top motor replaced because it would stall out half way up. I'm having problems with idling rough (the dealer keeps "flashing" the computer), the outside temp gauge (that is finally going to be replaced), the windows shuddering as they go up. Anyone else had THOSE problems with a 2004? If so, what did the dealer do?

sjngrady · September 2005

I have a 2002 LXI Convertible. The car has a shake at 25 MPH and up. I had new tires put on and a four wheel alignment done. The shaking is still there. Any ideas?

nodreamcar · September 2005

For a while I heard a noise that I can only describe as a rotating type of sound eminating from the front. It seemed to be most audible when the car was coasting (slowing down) after reaching 30 or more miles and hour and my foot was removed from the gas peddle. No one seemed to acknowledge the sound as a problem. said all convertibles sound like that. Put it in the shop (chrysler dealership) while in Florida before my warranty expired. (extended after market warranty since I bought the car used) they said it was nothing - only a nail in the tire and rust due to weather. Got in car and the noise was still there. Drove home, warranty expired and two weeks later the noise seemed to get more severe. The other night, the car broke down - turns out all the lugnuts except for one came off - one lodged behind the rotor and needless to say this was not covered - Chrysler said someone probably tried to steal my tires and possibly couldnt get one of the lug nuts loose so since the others were already loose, they worked themselves out while I was driving. (?????) I am thankful no accident occured because five minutes before the breakdown I was on the highway with my grandchildrewn and my daughter who is expecting another baby any day. I had to pay 740.56 to cover the damages done (money I really honestly didnt have)

Initially I was told that the wheel bearing were bad and probably caused a vibration that in turn caused the lugs to come off...

Today I drove my daughter to school, I came home parked the car an went out later on (about an hour and a half later) and saw a small puddle of fluid (looks like water) coming from under my car. I investigated and saw it was dripping from somewhere in the front more towards the passenger side. I dont know what to do or what it could be. I didnt hit anything or fall into any potholes....

I'm so worried about my car - it now has 59,707 miles on it. when I purchased it a year ago (November, it had 39597 miles). and it seems it might have nothing but problems left...

Anyone have any problems similar to mine??

raymo1 · September 2005

Hi all, First time post...
Went to change a burnt headlight bulb on the wifes 01 Sebring and I'll be damn if I can figure out how to get to the bulb..it's buried !! Does the whole front end of the car have to come off :mad: "> I hate to even think about the battery..that's buried so deep you can barely see it !! Anyway, any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated

withers · September 2005

2001 CHYRYSLER SEBRING 2.7L ENGINE HAD BATTERY DISCONNECTED FOR SEVERAL DAYS. ENGINE HAD SEVERE KNOCK , CLYINDER RODS WERE THE CAUSE. TURNED CRANKSHAFT AND REPLACED ROD BEARINGS. COMPRESSION CHECK WAS GOOD. REPLACED CRANK POS SENSOR. THERE IS NO FIRE ON CYLINDERS 356, HOWEVER 124 IS PRESENT. CHECKED COILS ON ALL PLUGS. ANY SUGGESTIONS? DOES COMPUTER NEED REPROGRAMMING?

kplatt · September 2005

You probably have a G3 seatbelt. These are totally defective and Crysler is being sued over it, so my guess is that your paticular dealer is trying to replace it on the sly so he doesn't have to pay for it later when the belt is recalled. Let him so long as there's no charge for it. The defective belts pop open when your're in a wreck, and have killed 30 or so people. Go to www.unsafebelts.com for more info.

kplatt · September 2005

There IS a real safety issue, and your dealer is either a liar or he doesn't read the safety updates from Chrysler. You have a defective G3 seatbelt. Please go to www.unsafebelts.com to learn about it. Then call the dealership and bawl them out.

kplatt · September 2005

I live in the middle of the Mojave and own a red one with a black top. A/C always cools the car down in less that 3 minutes. Don't worry about the top color. Worry about whether the car has cloth seats. Under no circumstances get leather seats. You'll fry your legs and rear end. Ouch!

mikey15 · September 2005

Anybody run into this problem? I just had a rental for a Sebring Convertible and after pulling into a gas station, I found the doors were locked!!

This is how things happened:
1) Pulled into gas station and opened door with engine running.
2) Opened door to check gas cap was on driver's side.
3) Leaned over to turn key in ignition lock and left keys in.
4) Closed door and proceeded to fill gas.
5) Returned to driver's door to find it locked!!!!!

When I called Avis, they accused me of "accidentally" hitting the power lock and that this lockout problem was mine. I did no such thing as you could clearly see that the door lock was still up while the door could not open from the outside.

Since Avis had no psare keys, I used AAA to bail me out. I had the driver verify that the door lock was still up and he used his tool and was also puzzled that it was locked. Instead, a different tool was used to pulled the inside lever and the door opened.

When I returned the car at Orlando Airport I explained it to the clerk I was returning the car to. I wanted to demonstrate the same problem again. She was smart enough to lower the window first. Did same thing as above steps 1 through 5. Voila! Door is locked with key still in ignition.

Beware! This may be a problem with a new model. With only 300+ miles, it was either a 2005 or possibly a 2006 if they are now out.

akmvolvobetter · September 2005

2001 Sebring has new battery. Problem has been going on for a year. Car often does not start (click, click ...) and requires a jump start. A 30 minute drive and it is OK for the rest of the day. Jumps starts are required about once every two weeks in the morning on first use of the day. No lights left on. Car locked, security system automatically on. Something is discharging the battery during the night or the battery is not getting sufficient charge during the day to carry over to the next morning -- or some other problem. Car has been into dealer and they said they could find nothing wrong. And suggestions on solutions or how to get the dealer to find the problem would be appreciated.

midtownjer · September 2005

I have a 98 Sebring convertible and am having the same problem. It just started. My mechanic cannot find out what it is. My problem is I have to jump start it every two days if it sits.

If you know of any solutions, please let me know.

Thnaks,

Jerry

akmvolvobetter · September 2005

Don't see a rain relation here. It will normally fail after sitting unused for one day. Once an overhead light was left on, but normally nothing is left on. The car is locked outdoors and the security light does blink as it is supposed to. I am wondering is the security is running down the battery. We have been careful not to leave cell phone plugged in to cigar lighter since it seems to be on with ignition off. That would drain a little power. If you have something plugged in there try removing it. Pep Boys sells a solar charger that "maintains" battery charge, they say. I have thought of getting one of those to help keep battery charged on that one day of no use where it fails. It has been going on for a long time and is frustrating -- it's been a pretty good car other than the abnormal battery problem. Also, last time battery was changed (at Pep Boys), I had the biggest amp battery they had, installed. That hasn't helped. I am in Colorado and it will be worse when it gets cold. Most cars can sit for a week without the battery running down.

oldengineer · September 2005

The bulbs are easy to change. Take out the two long torx head screws that go down through the headlight bucket and pull the entire headlight bucket out. Then pop out the bulb, replace it, and re-assemble. Only takes 10 minutes.

Regards:
Oldengineer

sduplessis · October 2005

Can you tell me where the oxygen sensor is located on your 1997 sebring...mine is bad and did not want to buy the book.

Sam

midtownjer · October 2005

Rain doesnt seem to be the problem. I found the same problem on the website and the answer they gave is that a module wasnt turning off when the ignition was turned off. I know its very frustrating. Ironically mine started after I took it into the dealer on the recall. If you find out any more info, please let me know. THis problem as ony occurred within the last two months.

If the dealer cant find a problem what recourse do we have. I wonder if others are having this problem. Im thinking about calling chrylser customer service.

I'll let you know what happens
Jerry

tromba1 · October 2005

Sebring convertibles are notorious for this problem. The wiring lead to the rear window heating element is strung as tight as a banjo string. Chrysler must have saved about a hundredth of a cent in wire costs. After a while, the metal tab that is glued to the window pops off. Check and see if it is dangling around behind the head liner.

There are aftermarket conductive adhesives that will work for a while but eventually will fail again. I spliced in about 3 inches of wire to the harness and reglued the tab on. Permatex makes a one-shot kit available in auto parts stores (~$11). Frost Fighter markets a multi-use 2 part silver adhesive kit (available on-line www.frostfighter.com/ff_pdt_2000.htm) for about $25. Seems to be working well now. This is a tight spot to work in and there is little room for error. If you're not comfortable with automotive wiring, don't do it yourself. I know I don't need to say this but I'll say it anyway. DO NOT try Superglue or anything of the sort. The adhesive MUST be electrically conductive to work.

I believe the factory fix is to replace that part of the harness with a longer version and reattach the tab.

scottindfw · October 2005

Occasionally, I have the same problem with my 2001 Sebring. Ever since I got the car in 2001, I would have minor glitches with the A/C from time to time. Sometimes the fan would come on, but I wouldn't get any air (it would be blowing in 'heat' mode or 'defrost' mode) or I would get hot air instead of cool air. Turning the A/C on and off several times seemed to do the trick. There never seemed to be any rhyme or reason to it. I took it in under warranty and they couldn't duplicate the problem -- they told me that I didn't have my A/C set properly! Now, at 60,000 miles, it will occasionally not come on at all (not even the fan). I just turn it up to "4" and get on the highway and then it comes on after a short delay. I'm not sure what to think, but it doesn't inspire much confidence. Will the A/C eventually just quit working? I shudder to think how expensive that repair bill will be. It's a shame, really, because aside from this, it's been a pretty good car.

nova_craft · October 2005

I have read a lot of messages on here abnout the older Sebrings causing a lot of headaches, but came across a deal the other day, and am wondering if the car may be worth getting...

The car is a "used" 2004 Limited Convertable. Really though, the car is still new. It was bought at the end of the '04 model year and parked. Today the car has about 1500 km on it. It is being sold for $25,000 CDN.

From what I understand the newer Sebrings are more reliable than the old ones. This car is nice to drive and handles well, and the price is right (Regular retail is close to $40,000). I just want to be sure that 5 years from now I'm not regretting having bought the car.

Anyone with an '04 that has any comments?

davyd60 · October 2005

I wonder why Chrysler doesn't address these three common problems on Sebring convertibles:
(1) Tachometer/Odometer not working properly.
(2) standing water on the floorboards after rain/or wash-down.
(3) intermittent Starter failure and blown 20 amp Starter fuse, under the hood.
By the way does anyone have a solution to item #3. I've had (3) starters installed in the last 4 years, and when the problem (no ignition, and blown/blowing 20 amp starter fuse)occurred last week the dealer finally removed the starter and had it tested. Lo and Behold it was a GOOD starter, and when it was re installed everything worked OK. Now I cross my fingers every time I start the car.
Does anyone know why this 20 amp starter fuse blows, and the starter fails every so often????

rick99 · October 2005

rick99 · October 2005

Seems as my first post did not have msg body.

I recently bought a 1999 Sebring convt. with 55,000 miles. I also have a 2001 Sebring convt. which we have had for 3+years. My question is about the "lockup".
My '01 seems to "lockup" much quicker than the '99. The '99 will not "lockup" until 45-48 mph whereas the '01 locks at about 30. I am using same driving technique with both vehicles.
Is there something I can do to get the '99 to "lockup" quicker as does the '01?
Is this a problem or just this individual trans.?
Also, am I correct in thinking both cars have same trans.?
Thanks,
Rick

chrybaby · October 2005

How to find Electrical Gremlins.

1. Obtain a multimeter that can measure DC amps/current.

2. Set the multimeter to measure DC current.

3. Make sure the car is off and the key is out.

4. Disconnect the positive battery cable.

5. Place one lead of the multi tester on the battery post and the other on the disconnected battery cable and note the current draw.

6. Replace the battery cable.

7. Remove fuses, one by one, and check for current flow in each circuit until you have accounted for all the current draw noted in step 5. You can expect to see some small amount of current draw for radio memory and such. I will probably be pretty obvious which circuit is the current hog.

8. Once the offending circuit(s) are located, leave the fuse out and see if the battery stays charged overnight. If it does, you've at least located the circuit that is drawing the battery down.

scottone · October 2005

My 2000 Chrysler Sebring LXi will not start. Its sounds like it will turn over and all lights are on but it will not start. I had the same problem about 6 months ago and it turned out to be the "crankshaft monitor." The garage I had it towed to yesterday could not find anything wrong with it other than they "thought" it needed a tune up....which they esitmated at around a whopping $700. The car even started back up for them, but today it failed to start again. If anybody could please provide me with some direction it would be greatly appreciated.

sebringsteve · October 2005

I have a 2001 Sebring Convertible. The headlights and fog lights have stopped working. The passing lights come on if I hold the turn signal, so the bulbs are good. The fuses under the dash and under the hood are good. Any idea what could be casuing this? I'm completely out of ideas.

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