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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • msfprobassmsfprobass Member Posts: 1
    My wife stopped to buy gas today. Afterward the car wouldn't start back, it cranks good and had great fire from the plugs. After some troubleshooting I really think it is the fuel pump or f.p. relay. CAn anyone please tell me where the relay is located. In my experience with autos fuel pumps can but usually dont just die at once, also is the fuel filter in the tank or on the rails inline with the fuel line? Please help.
  • ghost82ghost82 Member Posts: 4
    I had something on this posted before. There was no compression on a few cylinders. I got the timing cover off and everything lined up there. The belt actually looks newer?? I got far enough to check cooling system pressure. It was empty, so I added water to it. When I pumped it up, water was pouring out from somewhere. I couldnt see for sure the intake wasnt off yet. Once i got that off, there was water puddled up in the galley, below the water pump tube. I decided to tear the front head off. In the process I was draining the oil and a whole bunch of water came out. Upon getting the head off, there was water sitting on top of the pistons. There is no noticeable breaks in the head gasket, nor noticeable cracks in the head. I cant get a hold of a precision straight edge. So I got a regular straight edge and you can see a big gap in the middle of the head. Wondering if it sounds like warping to anybody?? Or, hopefully, just the gaskets. I was able to check compression on the back head after getting the upper intake off. Two cylinders had no compression back there either. Anybody have any ideas, Please respond. Thanks!!
  • fanmanndfanmannd Member Posts: 3
    I agree they messed up. I'd like to see a copy of that policy. i have leased 2 Honda Pilots never a problem. They should want to keep you happy so they can continue to lease vehicles to you for many years to come. Seems like they want to rip you off. I always turn mine in before my agreement ends (even if i go over my miles) and as long as I re lease i'm ok.
  • kholermankholerman Member Posts: 1
    next time it quits check for spark if no spark it will be the coil pack or ignition modul under distributor or on newer cars with out a distributor it will be under your coil pack hope this helps
  • dklynn2dklynn2 Member Posts: 6
    I'm new to the forum but used Edmunds to help me buy my used 98 JXi in '00 - I still LOVE it - except for the fogged up headlight casings. I'm almost to the point of not driving at night because I can't see. I was thinking of contacting Chrysler to ask about a safety warranty issue - definitely unsafe (any ideas on that?). Did the answer to this entry ("Some people use some fine sandpaper and wet sand it, some use rubbing compound") work? It looks to me to be on the inside, not outside.
  • frank111051frank111051 Member Posts: 1
    Your mechanics solution to the engine missing due to fuel deposits is of interest. We have a miss in our Sebring which cannot seem to be resolved by any mechanic. All the parts that could possibly cause the miss have been replaced at great cost. I was wondering if you could offer any additional information about how you arrived at a solution, what chemical was used to clean the deposits or who I could contact to get more information about these deposits.

    Thanks
  • grellengrellen Member Posts: 1
    Hey y'all . . . I am reasonably intelligent but not a real mechanic. But I know I can do this and save a little money with a little help. The "service engine" light came on my wife's Sebring. She had Autozone run a diagnostic and it said O2 Sensor 1 was not working efficiently. Here comes the dumb question. Which one is O2 Sensor 1? I can get to any of them and change them pretty easily if I only knew which one was number 1. Can anyone help?

    Thanks,
    Greg
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    You're right the fog is on the inside. I've heard that misting the inside with oven cleaner, and, then rinsing them out good with water will help. Never tried it myself.

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    Fine (not corse) rubbing compound worked great. Once I took the time and got mine cleaned up the first time, now I just give them a quick cleaning with it when I wash the car.
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    i suggest buying the manual at autozone for 12 bucks. Its will be the best money you ever spent.
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    My haze was on the outside, by the way.
  • prodjbmprodjbm Member Posts: 1
    I have the vehicle listed in the title which had a belt sqeak, I tried to tighten the bolt on the tension pulley and the bolt broke off, was there something that was suppose to be loosened first, I didn't crank on it real hard and it broke off. Any tips on fixing this new problem

    Thank you
  • gerrodhgerrodh Member Posts: 1
    my 96 seebring wont start. my pops is really mad cause its actually his. it ran fine no problems to wal-mart then for a little ride about 5 or 6 miles. then i parked it at my girlfriends house and guess what, its still there. it turns over but will not start. i've been told by some people i asked that it could be the security system and it just needs to be reset and i've also been told that it could be the crank shaft sensor. i've personally never heard of this sensor but i guess anything is possible. so could you tell me if this is true and if it is how much $$ to fix?? please hurry :.( thanks :cry:
  • jlsridejlsride Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 sebring conv.with similar problem. this is going to be my 3rd! starter in 6 years. the 20amp run/start/ign blows and I know it's time to go back to the shop. Is it just bad rebuilts -I'm going for brand new this time w/better warranty. I've had wiring traced from ignition switch to check short.
    Any ideas?
  • dijaresdijares Member Posts: 2
    Hey there,

    My son's 95 Sebring is going through the same thing right now. Two days ago, he went to leave the house (after having just got home), and his car wouldn't start. After about 20 minutes, it started up just fine. Then, about 20 minutes later, it just died on him while driving. It started up later on. Yesterday, on his way home from school (about 20 minutes drive time), it died again, and started about 20 minutes later. I had it towed to our mechanic (I wasn't going to risk him going through 5pm traffic for a 40 minute drive). Our mechanic has it running right now, waiting for it to die. He hooked it up to the computer, and he says it's coming back with the 'crank sensor' at '5 starts ago', which is about the exact time this started. He said it's better than the distributor, which what we originally thought. He said the part is about $100, but I don't know about labor. He's still waiting for it to die, and see what the computer says then.
  • bmaloufbmalouf Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I'm new here, but have had a real problem with my 2001 Sebring Convertible, with 25,000 miles. As I approach 55-60 mph, I hear a fairly loud tapping under the hood. Sounds more to the left side. It seems to quiet some after 60. I only hear it if my foot is on the gas at that speed range. If I decelerate, the noise lessens considerably.

    The dealer replaced the transmission 3 months ago, and claimed that the noise was gone. But now, in addition to hearing the same tapping I did before, I have a whine both accelerating and decelerating, even at low speeds. Replacing the trans didn't change anything for the better. I took it back, but they "couldn't hear anything", and gave me a real attitude. I figured I would drive the car for a while and see if maybe I was making too much of it. I've driven 3,000 miles since the trany change, but it is the same as it was. My warranty expired while my car was in the shop (there for over a week). I get really angry every time I get in my car now! The noise really gets to me. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • shartimeshartime Member Posts: 1
    I was on this forum this past week trying to get an answer to my 2004 Sebring clunk/thump suspension problem. I just had a front brake job (which I needed) at 30,000 miles and asked the mechanic to check into this for me. He went onto the AllData site, and found this service bulletin:

    STRUT/SHOCK TOWER: BODY/SUSPENSION - CLUNK/POP SOUND FROM VEHICLE FRONT..

    DATE: September 24, 2004

    SUBJECT: Pop/Clunk Sound from front of vehicle.

    OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves installing 2 rivets in each front shock tower/wheel well area.

    MODELS: 2001-005 Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan.

    SYMPTOM CONDITION: Vehicle produces an intermittent front end popping or clunk type sound while driving over road inputs that causes the body to come under a twisting load. This sound may also be produced when in park and idle by turning the steering wheel quickly, 90 degrees to the left and back to the right.

    DIAGNOSIS: If the vehicle operator describes the above symptoms, turn the steering wheel quickly 90 degrees to the left and back to the right while the transmission is in park and the engine is idle. If a popping or clunk sound is heard, perform the repair procedure.

    REPAIR:
    QUANTITY PART NO. DESCRIPTION
    4 06033864 Rivet
    1 82300508 Corrosion inhibitor

    PARTS REQUIRED:
    Pentastar Service Equipment Riveter
    W-HK150F or W-AK175ACH or equivalent

    LABOR OPERATION NO.: 23-85-85-90
    DESCRIPTION: Install rivets to shock tower/wheel house/both sides.
    AMOUNT TIME: 0.7 hrs.

    I hope this will help all who have complained about this problem earlier -- My mechanic is wonderful (I feel so lucky) and since I am still under warranty no problem -. Hope this helps..
  • lorietoupslorietoups Member Posts: 3
    Last night I drove my daughter's car and nothing felt abnormal..when I got home she got into to leave and it wouldn't start. All the lights are working. I see a lot of people saying the crank sensor, is that the same as a crank shaft sensor?? Where is it in the engine and is it very hard to replace. My husband is out of town so I'm trying to narrow down possibilites. I checked the #8 fuse in the engine, has a 20amp fuse that looks to be good.I've tried turning the key in the ignition several times to possibly reset..I was thinking it could have something to do with the alarm or key as well.I've seen a lot of people talking about reprogramming a key..???? I've ordered an owners manual-but in the meantime I need help, please.
    Is there a way to check to see if the Alternator is working and where is the belt...Anybody that could help, I would greatly appreciate.
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    The short is internal. Id buy one from Advance of Auto Zone with the life time warrantee and save the cost of additional purchases. Its a piece of cake to change.
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    If the head lights don't dim while trying to crank the engine, then change the starter.
  • lorietoupslorietoups Member Posts: 3
    Thanks.. I ended up getting it started. I replaced the #8 fuse in the engine (it didn't look bad though) and after that it started up-had to give it gas though to get it going. It didn't die though. Now, having other problems as well, it's shifting really hard from 1st to 2nd and it feels like it's going to die when you come to a stop, the idle drops really low then comes back up to about 1000.
    Getting frustrated and really nervous after seeing all the problems that Sebrings have. Since the battery was removed-do I need to reprogram anything??If the check engine light isn't coming on, where does it give you a code to tell you whats wrong. I tried turning the ignition switch on/off a few times to see if that worked but that didn't work. Seen some info about a crank shaft sensor too..My Grand Jeep Cherokee is on the brink as well...frustrated still thanks for your help!Lorie
  • snewbysnewby Member Posts: 1
    Ok - I'm looking for some advice with our 1996 jx 2.5L V6. We've had the car to the mechanic several times to diagnose the whine and get the "we don't hear it" or "it's wind noise" - now I'm not an idiot, and this isn't wind noise. Here are the symptoms:

    1 - at between 25 and 35 mph the noise starts as a very distinct whirring noise or whine coming from the left front wheel.
    2 - as you increase in speed the noise becomes higher in pitch
    3 - as you decelerate the noise reverses the course from 1 & 2 above and drops off below about 20 mph.

    It's been doing this off and on for about 4 years, and wasn't very noticable this winter (in Wisconsin it is cold), but during the spring and summer it is much more noticable. It is definately coming from the left front, seeing as when you drive by a concrete barrier (like those in a construction area) and the noise becomes very noticable as it reflects back at you.

    Doing some research on this topic - we've come up with a few possible causes - 1) brake wear indicator, 2) idler pulley/tensioner assembly or bearing, 3) wheel bearing, or 4) torque converter problem.

    Any help would be appreciated - this is the spring time curse with this car - just when we want to sell it.

    Thanks - Scott
  • redhotwhitchicredhotwhitchic Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 96 chrysler sebring convertible.
    Love the car until a week ago i was going down the road cruising @ 40-50 went to accelerate and nothing no engine sound or acceleration then the service engine light flickered when I got to a point to stop the codes coming out were 12 (from a previous incident, it doesn't seem to clear after three sucessfull runs)then 11 & 54 which are cam shaft and then the sensor, tool the advice of a family member I worship, and did not take it to the shop the service engine soon light went away and the codes went away aside from 12, then 5 days later the same occured except resulting in the car to die and there was some noise involved this time almost like running out of gas, backfiring honestly i don't know just lights flashing and noises going stoping and so on until leaving me stranded for fear that the timing belt broke. Had it towed home. Since took the cover off and the belt is tight and turns not as if something is seized up. no oil on the part of the belt have rotated too cause slippage.

    by the way the car had power the trans changed good.

    any ideas.
  • redhotwhitchicredhotwhitchic Member Posts: 2
    by the way 12 basically it has went dead at some point and my reliable family member was check out the air and was checking some relay
  • stumped97stumped97 Member Posts: 1
    My '97 with the 2.5L has ~160k. Almost time to put out to pasture but I won't let her go yet...
    [I did read all 60+ pages of the forum and have not found this one so here goes]
    The latest, failed emissions: replaced both O2 sensors and cat. Still not right so I replaced the distributor, rotor and cap. Now she won't go over 20mph. Put old distributor bacl in and same thing. Figure jumped timing belt...checked timing marks (all correct) and verified rotor at top dead center (cylinder 1). Now I changed the wires and checked all ground straps. While looking around I noticed that cylinders 1,3,5 have carbon on spark plugs, and 2,4,6 are wetted with gas. It seems that 2,4,6 are not firing. Is this possible? Any guesses? Before I sink the money into a PCM I really want to make sure that is it...after all '97 has a unique PCM that so far I can only find at a dealer. Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated!
  • scott1998tascott1998ta Member Posts: 4
    Was wondering if you ever found a reason or a fix to your problem. My wife's 2004 sebring convertible (LXi) is doing the EXACT same thing. We found that if we are driving on the interstate for a long period of time, when we exit off and slow down on the off ramp the car will begin to run very rough when we are almost stopped and in some cases completely kill. It starts right up again but that is dangerous. We have deffinitly had the engine surge while pulling into a parking spot.
  • scott1998tascott1998ta Member Posts: 4
    I have found that if you get to a dealership that has a decent service department (mine is a Dodge dealer) and specifically ask about computer UPDATES / UPGRAPES then they can find one that will describe your problem of the surging and killing almost exactly. Takes about an hour according to my dealership (probably only 10 minutes but u know how that goes) and is covered by 3/36 base warranty. Might have to pay for it after the base warranty is up. Now keep in mind that this is the same dealer that I went to and described the exact problem to a different service guy and he said he had never heard of this problem before, never mentioned anything about an update, and suggested that it most probably would be the fuel system getting dirty and tried to sell me on getting the fuel system treatment service they sell at $170.00 which 'MIGHT' fix the problem...but its where HE would suggest starting. ITS THE COMPUTER UPGRADE and I was also told that MOST cars have some kind of upgrades for them...it just depends on what kind of problems ur car might be having.
  • wbsjetswbsjets Member Posts: 1
    Have 2002 Sebring Convertible. Exact same problem. Low frequency noise, obviously rotational if car is cold. Last for 15 minutes or so. 55k. Took to dealer and left for three days. Concluded was bad right front hub bearing. Replace item. Noise continued. Left for two more days. Concluded was brake system noise. Took to Midas. Has full and complete brake job, new disc and pads. Noise continued. They put on lift, removed wheels and drove car and carefully listened. Noise level was reduced (no load on tires) but concluded was coming from right CV axel boot. Replaced CV axel. Noise continues.
    Intestingly, when they removed my CV axel they determined replacement unit was wrong size, so had to re-install my old unit. After doing so, noise now became a high pitched screech that also stopped after 15 minutes. Driving causes grease and oil to circulate and causes rotational metal to heat and expand. Friend guesses it must be differential problem since all other possibilities have been replaced. Any other suggestions?
    wbsjets
  • a500hp6a500hp6 Member Posts: 1
    It does not seem to have the simple metal tab glued to the windshield like many other older cars.

    Thanks
  • mendoza46360mendoza46360 Member Posts: 1
    i tryed to click on the web site to see pictures and it says web site can not be shown
  • nutzzzzznutzzzzz Member Posts: 1
    ok, so about a month ago my 96 sebring stalled at a red light and restarted with no problem... every now and then it will feel like it is losing power then go right back to normal.....i was at 69,000 miles so i had the complete tune up done (dis, roter, wire set,plugs)...it still did it. so then the diagnostic check told me i had a oxygen sensors gone bad....so i replaced them today...needless to say it ran great for about 20 miles then died at a redlight and restarted no problem, it immeaditly felt like i had released the gas pedal then ran just fine. im about to drive 9 hours in this car and i need to know what is wrong with it. is this car going to die on me on the interstate? could it be a fuel filter (i havent replaced it and cant say when it was last done) please somebody help me find out why this car wants to stall at redlights and is it going to make a 9 hour trip (18 round trip)?
  • rossvannessrossvanness Member Posts: 1
    so im trying to sell my 99 sebring jxi convertible, and all the sudden it starts to overheat. also in the winter the heater didn't work. my mechanic friend says its my thermostat. anyone know how much a new thermostat costs?
    also my drivers side window needs a new regulator, anyone know how much that costs?
  • jeff125jeff125 Member Posts: 2
    I AM HAVEING THE SAME PROBLEM DID YOU FIND OUT WHAT IT IS
  • jeff125jeff125 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 sebring lxi and ill be driving down the road and all of the sudden the rpms will drop to 0 as if the car stalls then will restart. Everything else is still on like the radio and every thing and the local mechanic said that without the check engine light coming on its hard to tell whats wrong so i was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if anyone may possibly know whats wrong with it AND RPM GOSES ON AND OFF
  • breezerbreezer Member Posts: 1
    Have a97 Sebring JXI. Started making front-end noise bout three months ago.Finally called a tow truck as I was afraid to drive. Broke three out of five studs and lug nuts off day I called tow. :mad: Had it in shop for a week and they cannot find anything wrong! :cry: Just talked to a service mgr at a dealership and the way he talks, it is a problem Chrysler has had with this car. I am to take it to him next week. Will re-post if I get any answers! :confuse:
  • liberacebailyliberacebaily Member Posts: 1
    The best way to help prevent the sludging problem is to use synthetic oil. However, you have to start using it early on BRFORE the sludging problem begins. Also, don't switch from conventional oil to synthetic oil if your car has more than about 25,000 miles.
  • reinrammreinramm Member Posts: 1
    and it goes away a few seconds after I accelerate.

    I recently had to replace the engine and the starter on my 2000 Sebring.

    Is this yet another problem?

    Thanks, and please tell me if I gave too little info.

    My first post!

    B
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    loose belt---power steering or AC probably. Inspect belt for glazing (burned from slipping too much), and either tighten or replace.
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 96 Conv. with 74,000 miles on it. Recently within the past few months while driving on the freeway my car will just start slowing down on it's own. I try to push gas pedal but it won't move. After I sit for about 30 minutes it seems to drive fine. The mechanic say they can't do anything until my check engine light comes on. It finally came on yesterday and they told me I need to replace O2 sensors, fuel filter, air filter, fuel injector service done, a tune up, and replace my rotors. They said it would cost aout $1100. My father in law wants to do it himself. One, is anyone else having this problem? If so what did you do? Two, can someone tell me where the O2 sensors are? PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • questnquestn Member Posts: 1
    I have a '04 Chrysler Sebring LXi Sedan with a 2.7 liter v6 flex fuel engine. I have 120,000 miles and haven't had problems until now. In the past few months it has became increasingly harder to fill my fuel tank. Then it the engine started dying. I first thought it was the fuel pump and I replaced it. By replacing the fuel pump I also replaced the fuel filter and sending unit according to the mechanic in the Chrysler Dealer, but it still isn't running correct. I have also found that the fuel tank is collapsing like it isn't getting air. Of course my check engine light isn't coming on so the dealerships cannot diagnose the problem. Does any one have any suggestions?
  • scott1998tascott1998ta Member Posts: 4
    Well there must be some sort of breather valve or breather vent to replace the fuel being used with air. all cars have to have some form of this other wise as the car uses the gas, the tank would start to implode. Its like taking a plastic 20oz coke bottle and sucking the coke out of it with out letting air back into it.
  • jgbsmoker27jgbsmoker27 Member Posts: 1
    i changed the air filter in my 2004 sebring,while doing so i broke the aic sensor that is located on the air filter hose. i replaced the sensor but,the problem is still there.i think a piece of plastic off the sensor might have fell into the throttle body.now when u crank it, the engine revs to 3000 rpms. and wont idle down. need help with this problem
  • dave718dave718 Member Posts: 1
    I'm in the market for a new car, and I'm considering a Sebring convertible, from 1 to 3 yrs old. Any gotcha's or gremlins I need to be aware of? Any perennial problems? I rented one a few years ago and thought it was a sweet ride, but *all* rentals are pretty sweet, in general.

    Thanks in advance
  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    Hello to all Sebring owners out there in Chrysler world!!! My name is Matt and i just purchased a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LX with 127,000 miles on it. Couple of problems....

    1. When i start the vechile i hear like a streching noise when i put the car in reverse "sounds like a creaking noise when u tighten a rope".

    2. Drive the car for about 20 mins and when i stop at a stop light it starts to warm up going towards hot and the when i start goin again it resumes back to normal.

    3. The "mysterious" "check engine light" comes on when i start the vechile and stays on. Went and had the codes checked and i had a misfire in cyclinder 1&2 in this case supposly means o2 sensors needs to be replaced. Both Catalytic Converters need to be replaced and the O2 sensors are located on each of the converters.

    Is there anyone out there that has these problems please email me and let me know.

    Excellent site!!!

    matt :)
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    1. When i start the vechile i hear like a streching noise when i put the car in reverse "sounds like a creaking noise when u tighten a rope".

    2. Drive the car for about 20 mins and when i stop at a stop light it starts to warm up going towards hot and the when i start goin again it resumes back to normal.

    3. The "mysterious" "check engine light" comes on when i start the vechile and stays on. Went and had the codes checked and i had a misfire in cyclinder 1&2 in this case supposly means o2 sensors needs to be replaced. Both Catalytic Converters need to be replaced and the O2 sensors are located on each of the converters.

    Let's see......I have a 97 Sebring LXi Coupe with 56k on it and it sounds like it does similar things to yours.

    1. Mine makes the same noise, my little brother (mechanic) said its a solinoid for the tranny. Not sure if he's right, but it doesn't seem to affect the car at all.

    2. Don't have that issue.....make check the fan? Just guessing.

    3. I have the *check engine* light with a mind of its own as well. I spoke with the original owner of the car and she said its done that all its life, since it was new. She said they had put in numerous 02 sensors and it would still come on. Doesn't seem to bother that car so I ignore it. However, I do know my car needs new cats, so might have it done then.

    Great cars, mine I bought from a junkyard after it had run off the road and hit a tree with the driver's side rear, did some body damage and suspension damage. Fixed the suspension and have been driving it ever since.
  • gsorbogsorbo Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone.

    Just bought a 97 Sebring JXI convertible with 80k miles. It's in pretty good exterior and mechanical shape and runs well. This is the first Sebring I've owned.

    I've got two issues that I was hoping someone might have some insight into:

    1) The driver's side power seat won't move forward or back. I can hear the switch engage, but nothing happens. The other two power lumbar switches on the same seat work fine up and down. :confuse:

    2) The fuel empty (dummy) light comes on and then goes off intermittently even with a near full tank. I've noticed that the fuel indicator goes down rapidly about 1/8th of a tank before returning to normal, which seems to trigger the dummy light to come on, then go off again. :confuse: This one concerns me as I had an old Bonneville that did something similar, and when it "thought" there was no gas left in the tank, the car would basically shut down.

    Any ideas before I take this to a mechanic would be greatly appreciated! :)

    Thanks!
  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    hello to all again!!! well i took the sebring for the first long ride about 250 miles and no problem so far. sometimes im admitting black smoke and i check the oil it to me smell likes gas so anyone know what it could be???

    thxs

    oh by the way if ya likes sebrings come and check out my page http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=646254- 51
  • sebringkeithsebringkeith Member Posts: 6
    I am having the SAME problem! and my Engine light will not come on either!

    Did you eventually find out what was wrong and is it running fine now????

    what did you replace?!?!?! HELP HELP HELP!
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    I have been getting so many different reasons. It went from O2 sensors to air filters to fuel filter and fuel injector service. Now I am at the point where it is a fuel pump. I will let you know if that helps.
  • kimandbob91kimandbob91 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 sebring and I had the same problem not too long ago and It took 10 days to find out that it is the crank shaft sensor and it cost about 60 bucks and takes less than 10 minutes to fix my suggestin is call all the auto stores in your area and get a price, but it is the crank shaft sensor
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