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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    :cry: Ok here we go!!!

    1. i having the heads replaced on the car due to warpage in which its causing gas to go in to cylinders and cause major probs if not fixed. Major overhaul about to occur with new race performance brakes added.. grand total........................................1900.00 dollars

    ill keep you guys updated
  • setspike99setspike99 Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing the same problem. My car died 2x on the way to work today. Did you find out any info? Thanks!
  • jsamplejsample Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1997 Chrysler Sebring convertible JX, which I've had numerous problems with that I won't go into at this time. Suffice it to say there will never be another Chrysler in my life again. Latest problem is the power steering shakes and shimmies so much, it's almost impossible to drive. Any hints or solutions?
  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    ok well heres the whole story... 1573 worth of resurfacing the heads and new head gasket. new timeing pully and belt. new thermostat and water pump and of course new raditor hoses. now i had a warranty on it and for some reason when i took it back to the dealership they found nothing wrong with it. so who knows whats really wrong!!!!

    laterz
    matt
  • jed1967jed1967 Member Posts: 6
    Hello everyone,

    Got a '97 Jxi and the SES light's been on a couple days now. Plugged in an OBD II scanner and got two codes. Both say that the O2 Sensor heater circuit has malfunctioned (one code for cylinder bank #1, sensor #1, and the other for cylinder bank #1, sensor #2).

    My Haynes manual fails me because the picture they show to demonstrate the location of the sensors is obviously NOT from a '97 Jxi! So my question is this: Does anyone know where the sensor in question is located? And I mean _exactly_ where it is - Assume I don't have much of a clue beyond what I've described in this e-mail.

    I am assuming that I'll need to replace the booger, but want to make sure it's plugged in first!

    Thanks in advance! :) Jim
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    I know where they are but since I am not smart with cars I will try to describe. One is in the front and one is up under. Basically they are hard to get to unless you are a mechanic. I just got mine changed. Hope this helps.
  • tr3alptr3alp Member Posts: 5
    Let me know if this ISN'T the right forum or thread to post to... ;-)

    I just bought a 2003 Sebring Ltd convertible and have some questions: [some were answered when I bought the manuals]

    1- Why are the running lights ONLY for Canada?
    2- Can we make them work ourselves?
    I checked the two fuse boxes and the fuse and relay seem to be there.

    3- It only had 1 key, so I paid a dealer $65 for an unprogrammed key. They want another $40 to program it. The manual says it takes ~ 40 seconds if you have 2 good keys. So, besides the extortion, Is there a way to program a key ourselves with only 1 good key?

    4- The left front has a varying shake. Sometimes the whole cowl/windshield seem to be shifting. Otherwise, it feels solid. Anyone else have that problem? :confuse:
  • enfield76enfield76 Member Posts: 2
    My husband and I bought a 2001 sebring last year and lately the car has been given us numerous problems. The newest problem is the car will not start. The engine light comes on and where the mileage is, it says done. After 10-15 minutes we then are able to start the car and is will be fine for a few days when we have the problem again. At first we thought the alarm was causing the problem so our mechanic removed the fuse so it wouldn't act up. Has anyone had the same problem, or any suggestions on what could be causing this sporadic behavior? :confuse: We loved the car when we first bought it, but lately we don't have many nice things to say. :mad:
  • fgreenefgreene Member Posts: 1
    could you repost the photos - I have had this problem for about 5
    years and generally ignored it. The DMV will not perform an emmissions
    test on a vehicle that the od does not work - funny thing is it does work
    as the #'s keep chagning - the display cuts out.

    Or if you could email them to me.

    thanks a bunch
  • rg2002rg2002 Member Posts: 5
    Was wondering if anyone has had the same problems with their car as i have. It likes to stahl and sometimes wont restart for 5-10 minutes. out of nowhere for no reason the RPMs will go really high n it will start to shake n the RPMs will drop n it will try to die. if i catch it in time i can get it to stay running. It has been in and out of the shop 7 times in the last 4 1/2 months i have owned it. with no results. Now it is sitting in the shop after 2 weeks this time and it is now dead and will not restart at all. they still have no idea what is wrong with my car. If anyone has had any problems like this please let me know and let me know how you fixed the problem. Thanks
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    My car is doing the same thing as yours. I will be on the highway then it will do a little jerk and will slowly decrease speed. Sometimes it would die on me, but sometimes it stayed cranked but I still couldn't drive. After about sitting for 30 minutes it will drive with no problems. It went from them saying my O2 sensors (which i changed) to my fuel filter (same) to my air filter (same) to now I need a fuel pump. I haven't gotten it yet though. I just keep my tank full and so far it has been doing great. I hope it will help. I am so confused I don't know what to say either. Good Luck.
  • sebringkeithsebringkeith Member Posts: 6
    So you are saying that as long as your gas tank is full it wont stall on the freeway on you?!?!

    That is ODD ODD ODD!!! Tell me more about that? Cuz I Have a mechanic trying to diagnose this issue, and I didnt know that if you kept the tank full it wouldnt do it!

    WOW, VERY strange!
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    It seems to be working fine for me. My car had been stalling at first only a couple of times a month. Then it moved to being stalled quite frequently. It would stall all the time. So my fiance' told me to just keep it on full. So over the past 3 weeks every times it gets 3/4 full I just put in 8 dollars to fill it back up. It hasn't stalled on me yet. I am in the procress of talking to Chrysler because we all seem to be having the same problem and I am trying to get them to look into if furthur.
  • sebringkeithsebringkeith Member Posts: 6
    WOW!

    How ODD is THAT! Well keep in touch! I am going to call MY mechanic and see what HE says about that! PLEASE Keep me informed, as I WILL do the same as soon as I know more!

    Keith in Dallas :)
  • charlienascar1charlienascar1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Lxi 2.5 V6 that had the same problem, and it is not too hard to fix. I have 4 O2 sensors. They are all located on the exhaust pipes before catalytic converter. They look like a lipstick holder screwed into a pipe. They usually have 4 wires in a cable. One sensor is between the radiator and front of the engine around the air conditioner pump. Two are under the engine. The last one is the hardest. It is between the engine and the firewall and is pointed up. It was best to get that one from under the car. After doing some internet research, the best advise is replace them all because 3 months from now the other 2 will fail. You can remove and install 3 of them with an open end wrench. The one in the back needs a $10 O2 socket that fits on a ratchet. They are not that bad to install. There are two lengths of cable harness. 2 are short and 2 are long. I liked Napa's short cable ($60 each). Chrysler dealers were the only ones that had long cables that fit (around $100 each). Use anti seize grease on the threads. Tourqe is around 25 ft/lbs.
  • kurmit33kurmit33 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a hard time removing the drain plug on my 3500 truck. I think this type of plug is on most newer dodge products, and this is the last year of its design due to problems.... is there a special tool to use or due I just pull it out or drill it... Help, Help, Help.....
    Kenny
  • martarionmartarion Member Posts: 1
    My wheels are also cracking and I have not replaced them yet. Did you get new ones from the dealer or just went with new rims? How much do they cost? My dash lights have gone out and I now have a loud popping noise on the right front when I turn. So many problems with this 98 Sebring Convertible Limited Edition. All of the air conditioning components have been replaced twice. Now I have a ticking noise from the engine that goes and comes. Any solutions?
  • ehart20ehart20 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2002 LXI Convertible, which is also a piece of junk! There should be a class action suit against Chrysler. I wonder how many known problems are played down by them. I've had warped front break rotors, windows that wouldn't go down together properly when the roof was lowered, iffy climate control, rattle at the right-rear, intermittent/now solid airbag light, all except for the last while under warranty! The dealer suggested and extended warranty!!!!! they also have the gnorskies to run an ad on this page full of complaints! Who are these people?
  • jd82145jd82145 Member Posts: 3
    I recently bought a 2005 Touring, I love the car but I have one problem I have a slight shimmy between 35 and 55, has anyone have this problem or had a problem like this? CONFUSED...... please comment... :)
  • maironadmaironad Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 2001 Sebring LXi Sedan over the summer. It started with the car cranking a long time before starting over the winter, then as the weather warmed (unrelated, I think) it seemed like it might stall when it first caught, but never really died. Had it looked at several times, but 5* dealer could find nothing wrong.

    Fast forward to eight weeks ago, and after running several errands without any trouble or threatened stalling, the car just wouldn't start. No turnover, nothing, but all the electronics worked so the battery was fine. Turned out to be a dead fuel pump, and all the issues since the winter were symptoms of it dying. Had the fuel pump replaced (not the cheapest repair) and it's been starting/running perfectly since then.

    I'm with you, enfield76. I loved the car when I first got it new in 2001, but while I still enjoy driving it when everything's working, it's given me too much grief and only has 65K miles. The sun roof has leaked, and I've noticed the seal is starting to get loose again. One of the trunk struts keeps popping off its ball joint, and the other is loose and about to do the same. Hubcaps fall off regularly. I have to replace a tie rod coupling at least twice a year. AC/heater fan resistor has been replaced three times. I have a short in the dashboard light switch for the third time. Just had to replace a few clips in the driver side door panel because it was falling off, and even with the new clips, the panel has warped enough that it's still pulling away in the top center. Even though I use a windshield sun shade and open the sun roof about two inches when the weather is hot, the driver side seat leather is cracking. All the plastic door edge guards are long gone, because the glue liquefies in average summer sun. If it can't stand a parking lot for 2-3 hours in a northeastern suburban summer, where COULD it hold over the course of an average year? Iceland??? :mad:

    I'd planned on keeping this car eight years or so when I bought it. No more. It's getting traded for a new Honda Accord in three days. I think the fact that we're keeping a 13-yo Ford Explorer (which doesn't have a stellar reliability reputation itself) and trading in the 2001 Sebring because the Sebring is less reliable and far more expensive to keep on the road says volumes.
  • maironadmaironad Member Posts: 2
    See my previous message (#677). I didn't mention it there, but I also had symptoms similar to what you're describing, though it was when first starting the car and pulling it out of its parking spot. For me, it was the fuel pump. If keeping your tank full alleviates the symptoms, it could easily be a pump problem. If you keep the tank full and ignore it too long, you'll end up needing a tow like I did. :(
  • rosariorosario Member Posts: 1
    My Sebring has a 2.4 liter engine and I need to change the air filte. Is that hard to do? Can you offer instructions?
  • 95sebring95sebring Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I have the exact same problem. I replaced the plugs, wires and the fuel filter and its still not fixed. I'm trying the EGR valve today. I'll let you know what happens. If you have any advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    well hello to all again. I have a update on my car and its not good news. Starting with first bill: $868.00 for a major, major tune up. Door handle on driver side broke also. I went and detailed it yesterday and when i was washing it at the car wash ii must have knock something lose cause my exhaust is really loud now... lol Over all car gets better gas mileage and has more pick up.. Still get warm when im at idol but goes back down after a bit. If you guys have any questions on 1997 chrysler sebrings LX please email me at anytime :D
  • kai9kai9 Member Posts: 1
    Hope someone can help! My 99 Chrysler Sebring will not start. It has 120,000 miles on it. It would not restart one evening after I pumped gas. The AAA guy jumped it, and I was on my way. The next morning it started, and I went and purchased a new battery at Sears. I made one stop on the way home, and it started again just fine. The next morning, it struggled to start, but I did get it started twice. However, I was concerned about taking the car out on the freeway, so I decided to bus to work. The car would not start again.

    Yesterday, I had two friends try to help. They bought an alternator, and fully charged the battery before putting the alternator in. They could not get the engine to turn over or start at all. They then abandoned putting in the alternator.

    Any ideas on what to look for next? I am trying to put as little money as I can into the car because of the miles, and due to the fact that I am a poor medical intern. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Kai9
    Benicia, California

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    :sick: :lemon: :lemon: :sick:
  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    Kai9 you probably have a electrical device on the car that is draining you battery all the time. check all fuses and make sure that all lights internal and external are off. :) :shades:
  • rg2002rg2002 Member Posts: 5
    I bought a 2004 in April, since the day I drove it off the lot it has been in & out of the shop. They have drove it more then I have. When I do get it back its on a Friday and by Sunday it is dying and heading back to the shop. It has been to two different shops and no one can figure out what is wrong with it. They will have it for weeks at a time. My car will be doing fine and then if i have to stop my RPMs will go crazy n it will die. If I am lucky n payin attention I can throw it in neutral n rev it up so it wont die. It doesnt matter how much gas I have in it I can have a full tank n it will still die. It has now been getting worse n doin it when I slow down n doin it more often n when it dies it will not start for long periods of time. Today it was dead from 830 a.m. till about 430 p.m. I am so frustrated I am about to lose my mind. I love my car n want it fixed but no one knows what to do to fix it. If anyone has any ideas about what could be wrong PLEASE help!!!!!
  • scott1998tascott1998ta Member Posts: 4
    rg2002: Have the dealership check on chrysler's website if there are any computer updates that describe a fix to your issues. When I was driving for a long period of time and I slowed down to an intersection the car would ilde badly and sometimes kill. Then it also would surge up when I was pulling into a a parking spot. No dealership could figure it out and even suggested that I spend $200 to have my fuel system cleaned out. It took me looking at websites like this to find that there is a computer update that the dealer can upload to your car. Thing is those lazy asses would rather just say we can't figure it out instead of taking a few minutes to read thru the updates. Have them look thru the updates for you car. I have an 04 limited and there are a lot of updates...only thing is that your car MIGHT need one, it might not, thats why they don't look there first.
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    I would suggest changing your O2 sensors changed first. Also, try seeing if you need a fuel pump. Good Luck.
  • ClairesClaires Member Posts: 1,222
    Hi, folks,
    I've noticed a lot of transmission questions/issues in this topic so I've created a separate one here:

    Chrysler Sebring: Transmission Questions

    You may notice that some posts from this topic have been moved there.

    MODERATOR

    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • rg2002rg2002 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks I will mention that. Supposedly the one mechanic is online all the time "talking" to other mechanics trying to figure out the problem. Thought they had figured out the problem yesterday when they called and said something about a circuit (?) staying open...but they never called me back today so I'm guessing that wasn't the problem either. They have already changed O2 censor and fuel pump and tons of other things. My car is just a piece of junk and am getting a lawyer on it on Monday. Haha Thanks
  • sanchezmarsanchezmar Member Posts: 1
    My mom is going through the same thing with her 2004 Sebring. The dealership says they cannot find anything wrong, however we know when it shuts off while driving there is something wrong.
  • rg2002rg2002 Member Posts: 5
    The shop called me today. Just wondering if anyone thinks this will help or sounds like it might be the problem...They think the whole wiring harness (?) needs replaced. Said its an expensive job and are waiting for dealership (who I have a full warranty with) to give them the ok to do it. Haha they better do it, and it better fix the problem or otherwise they have wasted alot of money for nothing because an attorney will be getting involved! haha
  • sebring00sebring00 Member Posts: 2
    In the time frame of a week and a half, I have had to have my '00 Chrysler Sebring JXi convertible towed to service three times for miscellaneous repairs and have still had the continual stalling out of the engine, almost everything has been replaced, so far in the past year and a half we have spent almost 1,800.00 in repairs on this car and it is still not functioning properly, I am convinced that it is a lemon on wheels despite what the lemon law says about a car having to be (2002 or newer) I think this law should change!!! :lemon: Anyone out there who begs to differ???
  • rg2002rg2002 Member Posts: 5
    Try the wiring harness hehe Thats what my shop swears is wrong with my car..would tell you if that works but now am sitting n waiting w/o a car to drive to see if dealership is gonna pay for my car to be fixed! haha They said its an expensive job and are trying not to lose there [non-permissible content removed] with my car haha But anyways try that maybe it'll help your car too.
  • escambiaguyescambiaguy Member Posts: 35
    I rented a 06 Sebring Limited sedan(6k miles) to drive round trip from Florida to Memphis. When I first got in the car I was impressed with the nice interior, but when I started driving it, my mind changed. The V6 engine was not smooth. It made a constant buzzing sound. Transmission was also noisy and shifted erratically. It made whining and grinding noises. This was a almost new car, I think Chrysler needs to do better.
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    CRANK SENSOR ABOVE THE TRANSMISSION GOES BAD ON THESE CARS WILL ACT LIEK IT DIES OUT IT MAY START AGAIN TOO ITS GOING BAD CHANG IT 65 DOLLER SENSOR AT AUTOP ZONE 65 LABOR PUT IT IN SUMWARE NOT BAD AT ALL IF U EVER GET HESTAIONS DOA TRAINY TUNE UP ALSO 70 BUCKS OK NEW GADSCETS AND FILTER IN THER ALL U NEED U BUDDIE AND EVERONE ELSE TO WHO DIES IT CAME RIGHT UP ON THE SCANNER WHEN THE GUYS DID IT FOR FREE FOR EM THX NICK CRANK SENSOR CHANG E IT
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    CRANK SENSOR ABOVE THE TRANSMISSION GOES BAD ON THESE CARS WILL ACT LIEK IT DIES OUT IT MAY START AGAIN TOO ITS GOING BAD CHANG IT 65 DOLLER SENSOR AT AUTOP ZONE 65 LABOR PUT IT IN SUMWARE NOT BAD AT ALL IF U EVER GET HESTAIONS DOA TRAINY TUNE UP ALSO 70 BUCKS OK NEW GADSCETS AND FILTER IN THER ALL U NEED U BUDDIE AND EVERONE ELSE TO WHO DIES IT CAME RIGHT UP ON THE SCANNER WHEN THE GUYS DID IT FOR FREE FOR EM THX NICK CRANK SENSOR CHANG E IT
  • djdrummernickdjdrummernick Member Posts: 53
    CRANK SENSOR ABOVE THE TRANSMISSION GOES BAD ON THESE CARS WILL ACT LIEK IT DIES OUT IT MAY START AGAIN TOO ITS GOING BAD CHANG IT 65 DOLLER SENSOR AT AUTOP ZONE 65 LABOR PUT IT IN SUMWARE NOT BAD AT ALL IF U EVER GET HESTAIONS DOA TRAINY TUNE UP ALSO 70 BUCKS OK NEW GADSCETS AND FILTER IN THER ALL U NEED U BUDDIE AND EVERONE ELSE TO WHO DIES IT CAME RIGHT UP ON THE SCANNER WHEN THE GUYS DID IT FOR FREE FOR EM THX NICK CRANK SENSOR CHANG E IT
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    Is anyone having trouble with their oil pressure light coming on? They said they can't tell me nothing cause it won't stay on, but it comes on every time i push the brake pedal. Sometimes it dies. Can you tell me what's problem before it escalate?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like the car is getting ready to stall---very low engine idle when you brake. Anyway, check the oil level but maybe you need to tell them you have a stalling problem, not an oil light problem.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You may have noticed that we're moving toward smaller, more focused discussions. Please go to the top level of the Sebring board and look for an existing topic or create a new one if you don't see something suitable. Here's the link: Chrysler Sebring.

    Thanks!
This discussion has been closed.