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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions
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Comments
Thank You.
Sounds like a “likely story” to me. The LX is standard with the 4, and the LXi is standard with the 6. The price difference may account for the “sell MANY more 4 cylinders”. The 4 is a straight en-gine, the 6 is a dual overhead cam so is more mechanically inclined to failures. (More moving parts = more chance of a failure.) The HP of the 6 is well worth the possible problems, and be-sides, it’s a warranty issue for the first 7 years – IF you follow the rules. Drive one of each, and try entering the freeway with each. You’ll buy the 6.
Lildig1:
Check the books by Haynes for your car. They are very good repair books, and are only about $20. Or get the Service Manual from Chrysler, $110.
I had this bookmarked:
http://www.sernasport.com/plasheadresa.html
SebringStan
Since there are many problems listed would you buy another one?
If I go by the Consumer Report it seems that 90% of the cars have some problems. I have a 1998 Cirrus with 107,000 and have never had a problem. I love Chryslers but now I am concerned.
Thanks, Westminster, Md.
I have a 97 JXI that I bought used and have had to do some repairs on it, but it is a great cruiser for sure.
Donna
Any ideas?
IF you want some info on fixing your speedo, email me.
the_commander@hotmail.com
I have a 97 JXI with 92K miles on it and it drives like new.
I think it is a bargain in the convertible area.
SebringStan
Overall I am appalled at the service received and the quality of product Chrysler is peddling. In addition to the sunroof problems I have had air conditioning issues, a stumbling transmission, an inordinate amount of front bumper paint chips, and problems with the trunk mechanism. All have occurred within 7k miles! I shudder to consider my future mechanical headaches with this vehicle.
TSB number 19-03-98
GROUP: Steering
DATE: Mar.6, 1998
SUBJECT:
Cold Start Power Steering Noise
MODELS:
1995-1998(JA) Breeze/Cirrus/Stratus
1996-1998(JX) Sebring Convertable
1998-1999(LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M
1995-1998(PL) Neon
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Power steering system noise following cold starts in low ambient temperatures.
DIAGNOSIS:
The noise typically occurs in -12C (10F) or below ambient temperature and lasts less than one minute in duration. The noise occurs with and without steering wheel input and increases in duration and intensity as the ambient temperature decreases below -12C (10F).
The power steering noise may remain present until the fluid begins to warm which occurs as the fluid cycles through the system with the engine running. The lower the temperature, the longer it will take for the fluid to warm.
If the power steering system demonstrates this symptom/condition and operates normally when warm. perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
3 qts. of p/s fluid #05010304AA
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
This bulletin involves replacing the original p/s fluid (MS-5931) with new p/s fluid (MS9933) which has improved cold temp. properties.
One of the first problems was leaking from the seams around the windows and top. We took it to the local Dealer and after a few "heated" sessions, they fixed the rubber seals and it is a lot better. I understand that if you take a hose and aim it under the top you are going to get water in the car. Typical for convertibles and we accept that. Just gotta watch where you point the hose when washing the car!
As for top maintenance, do not use the Wax additives for washing the top. We use just water, a nylon brush and maybe just some kitchen liquid if it is really dirty. The rest of the car we use water and a Wax supplement. Works great!
As for the front end, yes, it hangs low and we have "ripped" off a portion of the plastic. The dealer has replacements for this and some day I will get them and screw them in. The ripped parts I just cut off and threw away to make the car still look good in the front. They aught to make some better "skid plates" up front for situations like these. The plastic ones are cheap and do not hold up on those high cement bumpers.
Our car is great and we love the convertible aspect as I said before. Now we need a car to tow a boat and are looking at other options. If we trade this in, it will be a "memory" for us and we will miss it.
Don
David
Tried it and it worked !! Less than $50 parts and labor to get rid of something that's been bugging me for 2 years..
BTW the TSB is wrong, it only takes one quart of fluid, and the latest part number from Chrysler is 5013457-AA.
Also, this problem occurs at far higher ambient temps than mentioned in the TSB.
Gogga
Is it normal?
Tom j.
Could you please tell?
Thanx
What do you think?
2000 Sebring Convertible.
I noticed that sometimes the headlights being turned on/off can "trigger" it back on. Help?
If the noise is worse right after a cold start, then this is exactly what mine sounded like. See my previous posts #90 and #96, its been several weeks now and the noise is gone !!
Gogga
As always, thank you all for being a helpful community of owners.
Michael
--1997 Sebring JX with 160,245 miles last time odometer was on (yesterday). Still running strong !!!!! THE MOST reliable car I've ever had the pleasure of owning !!!!!!
Please keep in mind his references to images are to those on his site.
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SYMPTOMS: Your tachometer and odometer are intermittent. They go on and off randomly, most noticeably with temperature changes.
THE PROBLEM: The circuit board on the instrument cluster has 3 power resistors (I think two are 2-watt and one is 1-watt) that are insufficiently heatsinked. As a result, the low-temperature solder that is used during the manufacture of the circuit board "goes cold" (cold solder joints) over time as the components heat up and cool down.
I personally think that they have two problems here. One is insufficient heat sinking of power dissipating components. The second is that the use of low temperature solder during the flow solder process, combined with the additional heat, causes the solder to get close enough to its melting point that it actually begins to melt. Over time the solder joints go cold.
I understand that Chrysler has a redesigned circuit board that fixes this problem. Too bad they didn't have a bunch of cockpit fires that would have caused them to create a recall (for those of us not burned to death) that would have replaced it for free. Now that was an odd thought...on to the repair procedure.
BEFORE YOU START:
Be sure to check to see if you have any dash lights that are out. You'll want to get some bulbs and replace them while you're in the dash.
Make sure you have a set of Torx screwdrivers. Go to Wal-mart and pick up a set for a few dollars. You'll be glad you did.
Send me an email and let me know if this helped or what I can do to improve it!
1. Remove the fuse cover.
2. Remove the screw (sorry for the focus problem).
3. Remove the trim bezel by grabbing the inside edges near the tab locations and pulling straight forward. Don't bend it and break it! Check out the next pic to see where the tabs are located.
4. Here's what the back of the bezel looks like, so you know what you're up against. There are 5 clips on the tabs.
5. Now you can see the screws you need to remove (out of focus, again).
6. With the steering wheel lowered pull straight out on the dash assembly. I don't have a picture of me doing this, because I couldn't do it and take the picture. However, I can show you the "clippy tabs" and the connectors that you need to disconnect to get it all the way out. This picture is the back of the dash showing the connector for the computer gauge (if you have one). As I remember, most of the connectors have a little tab or slide lock that you have to pry (gently) on to get them loose.
7. Here's the instrument cluster before removing the 4 screws that hold it in place. There are two connectors on the back of the cluster that you will have to disconnect, prior to its removal.
8. The cable harness is held to a cardboard backing with the cable tie/clamp. Instead of cutting this loose, get your torx screwdriver out and remove the silver screws holding the cardboard backing in place. This will allow you to remove the instrument cluster. Also, note there are two connectors on the back of the cluster. One is red (disconnected) and one is blue (still connected at the bottom of the picture). Disregard the Fortune and Nortel marketing in the background.
9. Now you should have the instrument cluster removed and you can put it on the towel of your choice to protect your wife's table! Flip it over and let's get to work!
10. Okay, now time to start warming up the soldering iron. Here are the locations of the torx screws that you need to remove. Also, I've indicted the location of the power resistors whose solder joints you will need to touch up. After removing the screws, you'll have to pull the circuit board loose from the instruments. They "plug in" to the circuit board. You can see the pins of the sticking through the board into their respective sockets. It isn't difficult, but you don't want to inadvertently flex the board and break anything. I didn't unplug the connector at the bottom, as I merely folded the circuit board over to work on the solder joints.
11. Here are the solder joints that you need to touch up. Be sure and use some good electrical quality, rosin core solder...don't use acid core solder that is for plumbing! If you don't have any soldering skills, check out this link and practice before working on your circuit board. You'll want to clean up your soldering (flux removal) with some alcohol, after you're done. We used to use some really good chemicals for cleaning up flux in the past, but I don't think most of them are considered environmentally friendly, anymore.
12. Now, as they say in the shop manual, "to install, reverse the above procedure."
-------------------------------------------------
Good luck and please thank Russell as well as letting the Edmunds folks know how your repair went.
Michael
--1997 Sebring JX with 162,634 miles last time odometer was on (yesterday). Still running strong !!!!! THE MOST reliable car I've ever had the pleasure of owning !!!!!!
CHRIS
aceads@classicnet.net
My opinion,,, if you're going to buy a car, skip the Sebring. While it's a great car to drive, the problems don't out-weigh the good. Spends more time in the shop than on the road.
I also had a noise similar to what you described on right hand turns. My was solved by replacing the power steering fluid. I used a turkey baster to remove as much fluid as possible from the reservoir, refilled, drove for about 10-15 minutes to circulate the new fluid, and did a another round of remove and refill. My noise went
away. Note I used ATF+4 trans fluid; it states on the bottle that it is recommended for power steering use (I have used it in my '93 Intrepid, '97 JX and '99 Ram 1500).
Note it must be ATF+4, no other trans fluid will work.
The Chrysler fluid I used (Part # 5013457-AA) is also ATF+4 trans fluid. Same thing..
Gogga
Child Safety Seat Primer
So I'd like to hear from "tan top" and "black top" owners about the relative amount of heat that seems to be passed through to the inside of the convertible. I hope the air conditioning makes this an irrelevant concern.
Later, Joe