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I just got back from a Service related visit. I am treated like Gold at this brand new Store, and I didn't even purchase my brand new V6 LX Sonata there. I will absolutely reccomend this Dealer, and Hyundai in particular. Why not trade in your old Korean LX, for a new American one?. They're spectacular :shades: !
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It's entirely possible there are bad Hyundai/Kia dealers, because every make has bad and good dealers. My Hyundai dealer happens to be great. That's a good thing to know in case I ever need service.
There are also good and bad customers. The bad ones burst into the delaership spewing venom and making unreasonable demands like spoiled children. I'm sure the dealers would rather take care of their good customers first.
Also, avoiding a great car for an excellent price because of 1 bad dealer doesn't make sense. There are always other dealers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor
or
http://www.temperatures.com/thermistors.html
If the engine warms up at idle - not driving the car there is nothing to hear - either just after the engine is started or 5-10 min after.
If i drive in the car, then after approx 1-2 km there is a very annoying metallic ticking sound (seems as it comes from left in the engine).
When i hold at a traffic light, people are turning their head, and think that i'm driving a diesel-car...
When the engine is warm - it dissapear more or less, but not totaly.
The nature of it seems not to be valve related (just sounds so).
Had the car to a dealer a couple of dealers , and they said that it would be very difficult to figure of what is causing this sound. I have also tried another similar 3.3, starting it from very cold, and here there was nothing to hear at all. - Some have it, some dont.
Since it hasn't turn hot yet, I'd like to drive my 2006 Sonata LX with the roof open and the A/C off.
Normally, I use the automatic setting and leave it at 70 degrees. Today, it's 75 outside, so I turned off the entire system. However, the compressor was still running, though intermittently.
I even set the temperature to 85, think that would turn off the compressor. That didn't seem to work either.
Even with everything off, cold/cool air was flowing through the dashboard vents.
What settings are required to have fresh air pass through the dashboard vents without the compressor going on?
Is this possible? :confuse:
I simply want "vent air" going through the car until it gets warmer.
Any tips, suggestions or answers would be greatly appreciated!
I shall take some notes over the next few days to see what settings would be needed to prevent the Compressor from activating. I'll report back in a few days or sooner, should I figure out what settings would produce "vent air" come through the dashboard vents.
It would seem from my observations so far, that Temperature Dial should be set at or above ambient air temperature as reported on the Automatic Climate Control Display and the Fan set to a manual speed setting, to eliminate Automatic Control.
I should also like to point out that I recently had to have the Ambient Temperature Sensor replaced. It would appear that I'm not the only one that has experienced faulty readings with that sensor.
HMAService.com has recently published a Technical Service Bulletin dealing with replacement of faulty Ambient Temperature Sensors.
I'm also scheduled for a 6K mile check-up. I shall be asking the service advisor to have a technician check the sensor for fault codes. I suspect I'll be asking either he or someone else at the dealership as to how to set the Automatic Climate Control for "vent air".
Thanks Larry for your quick reply and suggestion! It is appreciated!
A thermistor is a an electrical resistor whose resistance value varies inversely with temperature - in other words, its resistance drops as it's heated. Thermistors can be used in a variety of ways to measure heat or control other electrical devices according to temperature.
Current and recent past Hyundai engines have no mechanical switching components in their all-electronic ignition systems, so I have no reason to rely on that statement. (unless there's an ignition coil or cabling insulation defect that's allowing a direct spark jump to nearby bare metal...) A subdued, but sharp "pop" (somewhat reminiscent of valve clicking) is more likely the solonoid-actuated fuel injectors going about their normal business. (The Bosch injectors used by VW exhibit a very characteristic "pop" in opertion.)
Startup noise in engines which are equipped with hydraulic lash adjusters is basically insufficient oil pressure due to too heavy a viscosity motor oil for the current ambient temperatures. If the noise is present more than several seconds, the oil should be changed one or two viscosity grades lower.* More specifically, in areas in which temperatures routinely hit or go below freezing, 5W-30 viscosity motor oil, or lighter, is probably a wise choice. In my area, in which it's very rare to even get down to +40 deg. F., I've had no problems with 10W-30 viscosity conventional motor oil. A defective or poorly designed bypass valve in spin-on oil filters can also contribute to startup noise. Within the past year, Hyundai issued a TSB about this potential problem and dealers were instructed to change the oil and replace the oil filter (at customer expense) for owners complaining about a "knocking" sound at idle and who used aftermarket-brand oil filters. Some have also expressed concern that Fram oil filters, specifically, are suspect in this area. I've used "Wix", "Purolator", and "Champion Labs"** made oil filters under a variety of store-brand names with no noise problems on my Sonata's 2.7L V6 engine.
*According to my owner's manual, as recently as model year 2003, Hyundai accepted the use of as high a viscosity as 20W-50 for ambient temperatures down to freezing. I'm no engineer, but that's just asking for cold oil starvation trouble. Don't believe it? Put a bottle of 20W-50 in the freezer overnight and see how well it pours the next morning. If there's frost on the ground overnight, stick with 5W-30 or lighter until spring.
**Wix supplies certain NAPA brand oil filters, Purolator supplies Pep Boys' "ProLine" oil filters, and Champion Labs supplies WalMart's "SuperTech" and Autozone's "Valuecraft" oil filters.
You say... "It would seem from my observations so far, that Temperature Dial should be set at or above ambient air temperature as reported on the Automatic Climate Control Display and the Fan set to a manual speed setting, to eliminate Automatic Control."
This is the way I operate my LX most of the time with it giving forced vent air but I am constantly fiddling with the digital temp control when in manual mode to keep it even with or within just a few degrees higher than the outside air temp display because the heater is also mixed in by that same temperature relationship.
It's almost like we own 2 different cars. There IS only 1 Sonata, right?
Instead of spewing sour grapes, take your car to the dealer, and politely ask... not demand... them to check it out. Believe me, they want you to be satisfied as nuch as you do. It's in their best interest too! If you act hostile don't expect much help. Many people just can't deal with hostility and will try to avoid you.
That said, some dealers are pretty sad. It's not a Hyundai thing. It's an industry-wide thing. My dealer is fantastic, but yours may not be. In that case, take your car to another dealer. Or tell your dealer you are going to get the car fixed at an independent garage and your lawyer will send Hyundai the bill. Say all this while smiling and being very polite, mind you.
First of all, I did not go to the dealership with a hostil attitude, as you assume I did. Also, I did go to 2 different dealerships to no avail. I also have talked to Hyundai's Consumer Assurance all the way up to the CEO, Mr Koh also to no avail. Seems like my experience with Hyundai is not good. I can say how unhappy I am with Hyundai all I want and if you dont like it get off this forum. Afterall it is Problems and Solutions. Get the idea, people are suppose to give constructive help to people who have a problem with their car and need the advise. If you have such a great dealership ~ try spreading the word and mention their name, city and state. This might acually help someone! Get it ~ Problems and Solutions. I have read in other posts people bragging about how great their dealership is ~ Well, let someone else know too. Duh!!!
My dealer certainly doesnt skirt around the warranty. Heck man, warranty work is a dealerships lifeline, not the sale of the car itself.
Many of us will have some problems with our new Sonatas as in any car by any make. I am just thankful that I do have the 10 year 100,000 warranty that came with the car at no extra charge rather than the usual 3 - 36,000 offered by other makes.
The only problem I have encountered with my new Sonata with 4500 miles on it was a check engine light problem. It turned out to be a crimp in the rubber O ring in the fuel pump assembly causing a very small vapor leak. I sure was glad the emission check light system was working as it is supposed to in this case!
All in all, what a great car the Sonata is! In my opinion at the low prices Hyundai markets their cars combining that with the 100,000 mile warranty, the company would be out of business in a hurry if they built junk cars as you state and they definitely do stand by their warranty in my opinion.
I doubt there has ever been a new product line from a new assembly plant have so few problems as the 2006 Sonata has shown to date.
First of all, I did not go to the dealership with a hostil attitude, as you assume I did. Also, I did go to 2 different dealerships to no avail. I also have talked to Hyundai's Consumer Assurance all the way up to the CEO, Mr Koh also to no avail. Seems like my experience with Hyundai is not good. I can say how unhappy I am with Hyundai all I want and if you dont like it get off this forum. Afterall it is Problems and Solutions. Get the idea, people are suppose to give constructive help to people who have a problem with their car and need the advise. If you have such a great dealership ~ try spreading the word and mention their name, city and state. This might acually help someone! Get it ~ Problems and Solutions. I have read in other posts people bragging about how great their dealership is ~ Well, let someone else know too. Duh!!!
I rest my case.
My dealer is Courtesy Motors in Lafayette LA. I hope that helps. :confuse:
I also own an 06 LX with the automatic climate control system, and in reading the owners manual, I am confused about how it works.
More specifically, it appears that whether I use the automatic mode, or not, depending upon what I set the temperature to, the air conditioning comes on. In eastern PA, the outside temperature was about 72, I did not have auto on, using the temperature setting know, I turned it to 68. There was no doubt in my mind that the air coming out of the vents was quite cool, therefore, the air conditioner was running.
On other vehicles that I had, if I was not in auto mode, the air conditioning never comes on, I could set the temperature to 60, but the air conditioning would not come on. Turning the temperature up to 80 would result in warm air coming out of the vents.
Also, in the owner's manual, with the automatic system, it never states the purpose of the AC button. Again, my thoughts were that if I pressed the AC button, the AC would come on, and would be regulated by the temperature setting.
Bottom lines, the AC appears to come on regardless if the system is in auto mode or not, and it sure would be nice if all of us owner's could get a better understanding about how the auto system works.
Thanks,
Jo.
Hi - Bought a 2000 second-hand Sonata last year. The engine started to vibrate a lot in 4th and 5th gears - seller (under warranty) said it was the spark plugs and replaced them at a cost. End of problem.
Now, about 6 months later, under normal acceleration there are loud noises and a thumping under the accelerator pedal. Had a mechanic friend drive and he said it is only running on 5 cylinders and is backfiring in to the air ???? (sorry I'm not at all mechanically minded).
So basically it is very unhappy to be driven and will be returning to the seller for work soon.
My questions are: Do you think the two problems so far are related and what do you think the problem is?
I'd like to have those answers when I take the car in. Just worried about a band-aid fix.
This forum has to be the best place to ask.
Thank you,
Jo.
Just a little warning. If your engine truly is missing (not running on all cylinders), driving it can overheat and even damage your catalytic converter. Best to drive it as little as possible until the miss is fixed.
I think R134 refrigerant has been the standard for around 10 years. The re-fill adaptor won't even fit the old type (R-112). If it fits, it's OK to use.
Today was a nice day, about 75 degrees. Was driving with the windows and roof open. Turned on the fan/vent without A/C. I was very surprised that with the temp dial all the way to cold the air coming out was very warm, actually hot. I've owned three cars before and running the fan without the A/C generally blew air just a little warmer than the outside air. Today I even tried pushing the recirculation button so that fresh air was not used. No change in the temp. This air was as hot as the heater in my previous car. Of course, that was in winter.
Isn't this odd? Anyone else have this problem? I'd really just like to be able to blow cool air without the A/C when the weather is cool outside.
Thanks.
If after 10-15 minutes the air is still hot on a 75 degree day, I'd say you have a faulty heater control valve.
The heat from the son is amplified when it goes through windows. Also, people give off body heat. When a room becomes crowded, the room temp increases. Your car's interior volume is much smaller than a 10 X 10 room. 1 person in your Sonata is about the same as having 8 people in a 10 X 10 room.
I remember a veterinarian saying not to leave dogs in a parked car because they suffer brain damage at 105*, and a car's interior can get up to 105, when parked in the sun when the temp is only 75 or so.
Try setting your temp at 78 or higher. This will keep the A/C from coming on when the outside temp is around 20* cooler. To me, 78 in a car doesn't feel as warm as 78 would feel in a house.
You can verify this buy checking both the interior and outside temperature.
78 is hot! Why sweat to avoid running the a/c.
I would think if the compressor is running in the manual setting w/o the a/c button being depressed that it should go back to the dealer.
The point is, if the temp is in the upper 50's or 60's on a sunny day it is much warmer inside the car. Climate control will call for A/C: any make car or model.
Also remember, since the complaint/concern was that A/C uses more gasoline, that modern cars at highway speed get better milage with the A/C running and windows shut than they do with the A/C off and the windows open.
I can't believe some people are having a hard time using the A/C or not.
Pages: 1-106 and 1-108 explain how to use it or NOT ( Automatically or Manually).
If there are some who still don't get it, follow these simple steps:
AUTOMATIC CONTROL
PRESS THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL (left knob)for ON/OFF
(it is better not to use the automatic control for FUEL Economy! So leave it inactive!!! Make sure you leave the temperature as LOW not as a desired # such as 74-75-76 etc... and turn it OFF)
MANUAL CONTROL
Press A/C to start COOLING
TURN the RIGHT Knob to adjust the Fan.(increase/decrease speed)
To turn OFF cooling: Press A/C
To turn off the Fan : Press the Right Knob.
- A green light indicates that switch is ON.
- NO Light indicates that switch is OFF.
THESE LAST 2 STEPS WILL STOP THE COMPRESSOR!!!
MAKE SURE THE LEFT KNOB (Automatic) IS INACTIVE!
Oh, I can believe it.
I might not be doing it "by the book" but have found a simple way for it to work for me...using the same technique I've used in other cars.
About believing some people's difficulty in "using the A/C or not" I agree. Some people don't bother to read the owner's manual Look at the ignorance displayed in the last 6 or 8 months about how a trip computer works. Some people will spend more time on this forum than it would take to get out the book and see what Hyundai says to do.
If these features are new to people and they haven't read the manual, many of them are bound to mess it up.
The quality of the hides is not in question but if this is a common factor (seats fading so quickly)I want to know because this is a problem. My family has owned many cars with leather and this is the 1st time I am seeing such a rapid discoloration. This has nothing to do with how the seats or being clean since I used to work as a detailer for 2 years. It something to do with the process or material. With only 18,000 miles on the odo I should be seeing this type of deteriation of the seats. If this is normal, I can only imagine what my resale value will look like.
Note: you have to be moving and not sitting still.
It's not that people might not know how to use the system, or don't read, it is that some (at least all the ones I have tested) LX Sonatas recirculate air dependent on the last setting you put on the system, even AFTER you turn OFF the compressor. It is not characteristic of most cars, but the dealer said that it was characteristic of the 06' LX Sonatas (This was a dealer which was NOT trying to sell me a car). He said that the AC system throws out air in order to keep the car well ventilated. If it didn't do that, the windows would be more susceptible to "fogging up". I do not know how true that statement is, but I have had my LX Sonata since 10/2005. I still have this same issue, but it does not affect anything else. After a while, you grow accustomed to it.