Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

miamixt · June 2006

That is the last time I make fun of someone's spelling :surprise: I'm sorry!

atrocious

attrocious

lightfootfl · June 2006

Now stand in the corner, and spell it 3 times, then we will forgive you.

bhmr59 · June 2006

At least you didn't mess up "their & there", or "your & you're" or "then & than."

Those errors really make me question the validity of some posts.

desertguy · June 2006

You forgot my favorite.... break or brake.

bobad · June 2006

My downfall is missing a letter by 1 key. It makes for some really embarrassing mistakes, and the Edmunds software turns off editing a little too soon.

ray_h1 · June 2006

"At least you didn't mess up 'their & there', or 'your & you're' or 'then & than.'"

I try to overlook these basic grammar gaffes, common as they are. But it's certainly tempting to wonder what their purveyors had their heads up during three years of high-school English.

bhmr59 · June 2006

Maybe you're right... but what was this, maybe 4th or 5th grade English?

Sorry, but it just irks me. Typo's happen (I sure have plenty) and misspellings can happen when one gets a brain fizzle, but basic understanding of words makes me wonder just how much the poster knows what his is talking about.

I disregard this matter when it comes to those for whom English is obviously a second language (and commend them for being able to communicate in English. I can't speak any other language).)

badday · June 2006

My car has the same problem. Sometimes you feel the drag sometimes not. I have scheduled to bring it to the dealship to check it this coming Saturday.

gooch · June 2006

I don't know if it is because I live in PHX and the darned heat, but as I was pulling down my sun shade this morning, I heard a 'crack' when pulling my RHS visor down. Of course, when I attempted to put it back up in it's "home" position, another 'crack' was heard. Needless to say, the visor no longer would stay up.

Of course, when going out to lunch today, my friend noticed this and being an engineer, he wanted to look at it a bit closer. From the cracking, it was noticed that the visor was no longer secured to the mounting pole, which allowed for the visor to easily slide off of the pole. This is where things just got worse, as he pulled off the visor, pieces of broken plastic fell out. And on top of that, attempting to put the visor back on the pole proved worthless.

I just told him to leave it, and when I got home I removed the visor, unclipped the wiring connection and tried to see if I had any chance of fixing it. No way. Looks like I will be making a trip to the dealer to order a new visor.

miamixt · June 2006

Hyundai still uses some of the same visor parts that were used when they started selling in North America 20 years ago (1986). I know to be careful around Hyundai plastic. I had broken the visor in my Excel, where it screws in. It's an awesome Car, give or take a few parts!

osaka75 · June 2006

Please let us know what they tell you. Thanks.

ll94 · June 2006

My 2001 Sonata has been inspected twice and has failed twice. OBD read catalyst not ready and O2 sensor not ready. In NYS you can only have one not ready. Has anyone else had this issue?

ray_h1 · June 2006

Haven't personally had that issue, but it sounds like you're probably needing a new catalytic converter. The good news is that the federal emissions warranty on this pricey item is 8 yrs./80,000 miles. The oxygen sensor'll likely be on your nickel, though.

digitalboy74 · June 2006

Hi,

There is a phenomenon on my newly purchased 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. When I start the engine, the low oil pressure warning light stays on for approximately three seconds before it goes out. This happens whenever the engine is cool (eg, turn off the engine and let it cool for 15 minutes and then try to turn it on again). I took my car to my local dealer today and they told me that was normal. But I am still concerned. Shouldn't the light go off immediately after the engine is started? Isn't the oil pressure built up in no time when the engine is running? Can the three-second pressure-buildup gap lead to any extra wear and tear of the engine? If you happen to know the answers, please kindly let me know.

arenda · June 2006

I am also having a brake problem. On my 05 Sonata the brakes will squeak the first time I use the car. After the car sits for 4 hours, I will get that squeaky noise again. IT appears when it is cold they squeak but after about 5 minutes of driving the noise will subside. Hyundai service can never duplicate this noise whenever they test drive it so they keep telling me there is nothing they can do until they hear the noise. I am not deaf and the noise is driving me nuts. Any suggestions out there?

miamixt · June 2006

" I am not deaf and the noise is driving me nuts. Any suggestions out there?"

Two ideas come to mind. Purchase a little Digital recorder and make them an Mp3 of the noise. I loved my unit that had the Mp3 & editing software. Or # 2...

Take the Hyundai Challenge and pick up one of the brand new 06 or 07 Sonatas. You'll love it!

carfanatic007 · June 2006

This is a car forum not a spelling bee geek! Get over it and get on with car reviews and opinions.

carfanatic007 · June 2006

No. Next question.

sammy13 · July 2006

I bought a 2006 4 cylinder hyundai sonata about eight months ago. During the second month I noticed that everytime i made a right turn it made a squeaky noise. I took it to the dealer and the noise got worse...now it makes it when I turn to the left and right. I must have taken it to the dealers about ten times. they have no idea what's wrong with it. the noise just gets louder.

dano13 · July 2006

man this is a tuff room!there are more important thing in life than spelling, and i have most of them .apollige acepted.

ray_h1 · July 2006

I don't believe there's anything wrong with your engine. The new Lambda V6s have a top-mounted cartride type oil filter. The oil pressure sending unit is probably mounted to the base of the oil filter cannister. full pressure won't register until oil has circulated to the top end of the engine. The 5W-20 oil that Hyundai and others are now specifying are thinner which will allow faster drain back after shutdown, too. My '03 shop manual for my Sonata's 2.7L V6 (low-mounted spin-on oil filter) states that up to 10 seconds to oil pressure light shutoff from startup is within spec for a properly operating oil pump. I typically see about 2 seconds from a cold start with the 10W-30 viscosity grade motor oil Hyundai recommends for my engine - and that's in spite of the fact that the sensor is mounted low and should see full oil pressure almost immediately at startup.

digitalboy74 · July 2006

Ray, your point makes sense. However, I talked to a couple of my friends who have just bought the same car (2006 Sonata GLS V6) and they told me that the oil light on their cars went off in no time after startup. Why is there a difference on my car? Our cars are the same with factory-installed oil & filter.

BTW, shouldn't there be a valve in the oil filter that prevents the oil in the filter from draining back to the crankcase after the engine is shut down?

ray_h1 · July 2006

If you're still concerned about the apparant delay in oil coming up to full pressure after startup, you probably should talk to your dealership's service manager. If there really is an issue, now's the time to have it dealt with - even if you do have a 10/100,000 powertrain warranty, right? Now, about that anti-drainback valve in oil filters. What most people fail to realize is that valve is there to prevent dirty oil from draining back into the sump. At shut-off, oil and crud in the "dirty" side would drain right back into the sump but for the one-way nitrile or silicone rubber "flapper" valve covering the inlet port(s). However, the oil filter (cartridge or spin-on) is not a closed system. Filters have outlets for oil under pressure to exit and go about its business lubricating the engine in operation after the oil travels through the filtration media. Therefore, at shutdown, oil on the "dirty" side of the filter, though no longer under pressure, can and does gradually seep through the filtration media (though leaving the crud behind in the "dirty" side of the filter chamber) into the center core where it's able to drain out of the filter to some degree because of gravity. If your filter housing's anti-drainback valve isn't working as it should, though, your filter housing might be emptying nearly completely and unexpectedly quickly - again, something you'd want to bring up as a possible warranty issue based on your observance of the apparant delay of the oil pressure light extinguishing after startup.

ray_h1 · July 2006

If the squeaking occurs as you're turning the steering wheel, I'd suspect a bearing or universal joint between the steering wheel shaft and the intermediate shaft to the steering rack is insufficiently lubed. I could also be dead wrong.

bobad · July 2006

There is a phenomenon on my newly purchased 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. When I start the engine, the low oil pressure warning light stays on for approximately three seconds before it goes out.

Have you had an oil change yet?

If so, it's possible you have a bad filter. Certain aftermarket filters allow the oil to drain back into the engine. Hyundai has a TSB out on this, and warns against using aftermarket filters. I wouldn't even rule out a defective factory filter.

miamixt · July 2006

Sammy, had the same problem, turning left or right, with the Engine on or off. Took it back to the Dealer, they did something, and fixed nothing. Went back again and let my Service Manager drive my Car for the 5>4>3>1 Downshift Display thing, his Sonata also does that. Anyway pointed out the horrible squeak, and this time they fixed it. No new parts needed, just lubrication. I'm sure it will come back!

badday · July 2006

I took my car to the dealer today and they checked it and didn't find any problem. They told me it's designed like that. They also told me that they reset something. The car sometimes still has the "drag back" feeling when changing gears. I don't know what to do now, it only has 1000 miles on it. I hope it will go away after break in.

dano13 · July 2006

If ESC is a safety feature why can and why would you shut it off I. have turned it of and on and notice no difference :confuse: spell checker used

bobad · July 2006

I don't know what to do now, it only has 1000 miles on it. I hope it will go away after break in.

Problems such as this rarely go away, and if anything, will get worse.

There is a chance that you are used to another transmission, and simply are not used to the electronically controlled transmission "feel". Since I have no idea what a "drag back" feeling is, I can't help you there.

Does the transmission have a shift lag between gears? This can cause engine free-wheeling (slight RPM increase)and sometimes a lurch when the shift finally occurs.

Or...

Does the transmission refuse to shift into a higher gear until you either speed up a lot or back off on the throttle?

If you have either of these conditions, ask your dealer to have a factory rep check out the car.

suzannafl · July 2006

Do you have your CDs back yet?
Did they give you any indication of how long it would take?

I don't have anything myself.

Suzanna

ray_h1 · July 2006

Best of luck getting "eaten" CDs back. I have a gut feeling that the liklihood of CDs making their way back to their rightfull owners is inversely related to the general desirability of particular discs. I hope I'm wrong.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2006

Try getting a lamb chop away from an alligator---that's about the luck I've had with this.

eagle2a · July 2006

bodad: I posted this info in another forum possibly it may help you.

This site has been most helpful to me as I have tried to get back into automobile purchases after 14 years.

So let me see if I can help some of you folks. I don't know if this information will be helpful are not, but possibly it may.

I purchased a 2006 Hyundai Sonata I4 automatic transmission this mo. It is running fine. However Hyundai provides an on line service manual. In looking it over last night I ran into this important information. I am not suggesting this is the problem with the Camry transmissions you folks are talking about, but I thought it might be something you could look into. I hope this is some help to you all!!

I will copy the bulletin for you to see. I am sorry it lost the formatting in copying to this web site

Page 1 of 4
Technical Service
Bulletin
Subject
Group
Number
Date
Model
TRANSAXLE
06-40-005
MARCH, 2006
ALL
AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE CONTROL MODULE -
RESET AND RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES
This bulletin supersedes TSB 05-40-004 to include additional models.
DESCRIPTION:
The PCM or TCM contains logic to adjust solenoid duty and line pressure as needed to
compensate for normal clutch wear over the life of the transaxle. This bulletin provides
the procedures necessary to reset (erase) and relearn the adaptive values in the
PCM/TCM.

After the following repairs have been completed, the PCM/TCM adaptive values must
be reset in order to provide optimum shift quality:
 Replace automatic transaxle
 Reprogram or swap PCM/TCM from another vehicle
Adaptive values must be reset using procedure #1 or #2 according to model and model
year (MY) as shown below.

I. RESET PCM/TCM ADAPTIVE VALUES
MODEL ENGINE
1.
DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
SECONDS
2.
USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
FOR 10 SECONDS
ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
ELANTRA 2.0L ~12/01/2002 12/01/2002~
TIBURON
2.0L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
2.7L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
SANTA FE
2.4L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
2.7L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
3.5L 2003~04 MY 2005 MY~
XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
XG350 3.5L 2002~04 MY 2005 MY~
TUCSON
2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
Page 2 of 4
HI-SCAN PROCEDURE:
1. Turn the Ignition key to the ON position (do not start engine) and move the shift
lever to P.
2. Attach the Hi-Scan Pro to the data link
connector (DLC):
 Select vehicle
 Select AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE
menu.
 Select RESETTING ADAPTIVE
VALUES, press ENTER
 Press ENTER, then REST (F1)
 Turn Ignition key OFF for 10
seconds.
1999~2005
Sonata
2.4L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
2.7L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
2006~
SONATA
2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
MODEL ENGINE
1.
DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
SECONDS
2.
USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
FOR 10 SECONDS
Page 3 of 4
Technical Service
Bulletin
Group
Number
II. RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES:
NOTE: After the adaptive values have been reset (erased), an adaptive learning
procedure must be completed as shown below.
3. Attach a Hi-Scan Pro or GDS and
select Engine menu, Current Data
menu and throttle position sensor in
volts (THROTTLE POS. SENSOR,
ACCEL. POS. S, or ACCEL PEDAL
1 VOLT, depending on model).
4. Drive the vehicle until the ATF
temperature is within the temperature
range shown on Page 3.
5. Request an assistant to monitor the Hi-
Scan while accelerating the vehicle at
small throttle openings (approximately 25-
30% throttle). Hold the accelerator pedal
steady at a throttle position sensor value
of 1.45~1.75v during several 1-2-3-4
upshifts. Repeat until normal gear
transitions occur.
6. Repeat this procedure for 4-3, 3-2 and 2-1
downshifts.
TPS Specification: 1.45~1.75v
TRANSAXLE
06-40-005
Page 4 of 4
NOTE: Adaptive learning does not occur below the ATF temperature range
shown below:
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Applicable warranty coverage applies
ATF TEMPERATURE: 122~194°F
(50~90°C)
50~122°F
(10~50°C)
MODEL ENGINE PRODUCTION DATE
ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
ELANTRA 2.0L ~11/21/2001 11/21/2001~
TIBURON
2.0L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
2.7L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
SANTA FE
2.4L 2001~02 MY 2003 MY~
2.7L ~01/17/2002 01/17/2002~
3.5L N/A 2003 MY~
XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
XG350 3.5L N/A 2002 MY~
TUCSON
2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
1999~2005
SONATA
2.4L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
2.7L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
2006~
SONATA
2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~

gibi · July 2006

Mine did the exact thing, the dealer replaced the right rear wheel bearing, They said it was defective, No more squeel. have them check it.

seepic · July 2006

Hi, I just owned my Sonata GLS V6 for a couple weeks. I'm satisfied with most of the car so far. However I noticed that the gas pedal seems not sensitive compared with my previous 95 Saturn. To start from the traffic light, I have to step down almost halfway the gas pedal. Is it normal? Additionally, sometimes I can feel the gas pedal is shaking(vibrating?). If I step down a little bit, it becomes normal. Any thoughts on it? Thanks.

bobad · July 2006

That's not normal at all, and pretty alarming. I would take it in right away if I were you.

osaka75 · July 2006

That's the opposite problem that I have. If I press down like a quarter inch the car accelerates smoothly but will keep going up to like 70 mph. It's difficult to press lightly enough to go only 30 or 40 mph.

ckd131 · July 2006

Brand new 2006 Sonata GL and I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor but there is nothing to indicate how to stop it from flashing.

bobad · July 2006

I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor

Where is it located? On top of the dash in little dome by any chance?

miamixt · July 2006

"Brand new 2006 Sonata GL and I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor but there is nothing to indicate how to stop it from flashing."

Oh that!. Your car is just communicating with the Hyundai GPS Satellite. Now if it stops, take it into the dealer.
(Smile provided in DeepWater Blue)

Honestly though... that is the Alarm System LED. It blinks Red all the time, except when driving. Trust me on this!. Isn't that strange?.

pekelopd · July 2006

The little dome infront of the driver is the alarm status indicator that will always flash except while driving. In front of the passenger's seat is the photosensor that will turn on your headlights (if set to AUTO position) on when dark enough.

seepic · July 2006

we should trade.

pedo56 · July 2006

I have an 02 Sonata and it seems everything is going wrong at once. 75k miles, 4 cylinder.

Problem 1. Won't start (normally while cold). Car turns over but doesn't fire. Needs a little extra gas to fire. I changed the spark plugs and its marginally better. Should I change the wires now? Maybe the fuel filter? It seems to run good once started and isn't missing.

Problem 2. Power locks won't lock. The remote keyless or lock on door won't lock the doors, but they will open them. I have to manually lock them all and then the lock button arms the alarm. When I click the lock button I can hear a clicking sound. I have replaced the fuse already. Is this the actuator? Can I change this myself?

Thanks!

digitalboy74 · July 2006

Ray: I took my car to a nearby dealership. After inspection they told me it was normal. There was no problem with the oil system. They also compared with two cars of the same model, the same engine on their lots, and saw the same thing happening. I asked if there could be a problem with the oil filter but was told that there was no way to check the oil filter without doing an oil change. I also called two other dealers and they also said it was normal. But one thing that is driving me crazy is that two of my friends bought the same cars as I did but they don't see the delay of the oil light going off at all.

For the sake of security I paid to do an early oil change at the dealership. They replaced the oil and filter, but unfortunetely, the "problem" remains.

Should I be concerned any more, Ray?

digitalboy74 · July 2006

Bobad: No, not before my post. Yesterday, for the sake of security I paid to do an early oil change at the dealership. They replaced the oil and filter, but unfortunetely, the "problem" remains unexpectedly.

ray_h1 · July 2006

"Should I be concerned any more, Ray?"

Well, your engine's probably just fine, but keep an eye on it as long as you don't obsess to a breakdown. While I tend to take dealership presonnel statements with a grain of salt (having been burned a few times along the way to my dotage status), your dealer guy did demonstrate the same idiosyncrasy on other cars. In any event, remember - it's Hyundai's problem for the first 100,000 miles or ten years, right? (Hang on to your early oil service receipt and all subsequent service receipts, and the warranty claim invoice (if you got one) as proof down the road you were aware of something that seemed odd and made a good faith attempt at early resolution. CYA!

)

nifty56 · July 2006

if possible leave the car over night and let the dealer drive it in the morning.

g_acer · July 2006

I have the same problem. I changed to synthetic 5w30 oil and noticed it (it might have been there prior but I may have missed it, since its my wife's car), it would take 3 to 4 sec to go off. About 1000 miles later I changed to a 5w20 oil (synthetic blend), and noticed its a little better, maybe 2 to 3 sec. to go off. In both cases I used genuine hyundai filters (bought a case on the web, http://www.hyundaiparts.net/product_info.php/products_id/912). Seeing that someone else has the same problem leads me to believe its "normal". On my next oil change I may try 5w20 non-synthetic, who knows, maybe the sensor is sensitive to type of oil.

digitalboy74 · July 2006

g_acer: Hopefully it is normal.

But let's keep an eye on it and do share info on this issue from now on.

fk322 · July 2006

You would turn it off in the winter if you were starting from a stopped position in heavy snow. I was told the ESC has an adverse affect on traction in heavy snow. I don't know the specifics as to why. Has anyone else heard this?

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