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Comments
He unwired the brake-switch (as far as i understood - the brake light was on while testdriving and also the ESP-light in the console).
This caused that the lockup did not engage. Well - it didnt help - still shimmy in the problem-range. I took the same road afterwards to check up for differences - but it was the same. Apparently the lockup converter is not causing the problem. **** - i was really hoping that i would came a little bit closer to a solution - but it seems that it's neccesary to look at other areas.
Right after i took to a tyre specialist (at my last visit there i get front/back tyres switched (first dynamically balanced), and afterwards i got shaking i the steering wheel at 110/120 km/h).
This time i get the wheels balanced mounted at the car (statical balanced where driveshaft, rotor etc. wheel/tyre is balanced all together):
front + 20 and +25 grams, back 0 and +15 grams - Well i took the shaking in the steeringwheel - but the shimmy get even more distinct and noticeable in the 65-75 km/h area. -
So now i really dont know - It seems that changing the balancing makes a difference in intensity (but not in the speedinterval it appears).
(- But that is also what i was experienced with the other 4 sets og tyres i have tried in the past. - they can be balanced/optimized as good as the Hunter 9700, and the man who is operating it - but it can't remove the last shimmy)
There is in other word a connexion between the wheel/tyre's balancing and the intensity of the shimmy.
Also the shimmy is in same frequencies as the tyre RPM - but independent of engine RPM - 2,3,4,5 or neutral gear
(the tyreman said that the tyres had a little "side throw")
Obviously i'm almost back to 0...
- And another 80$ out of my pocket...
If I was the plant manager in Alabama I would want this auto to see just what really happened.
Agreed. I would like to have a listen myself.
FYI, his car was manufactured in Korea.
Bob: I am glad mine was manufactured in Alabama if this is the type of thing that Korea puts out.
My guess is that this auto is just one of those lemons that get built now and again. A real shame!!
So far, so good. My 3/06 Alabama built GLS is doing great. I love it, at this point in time.
Thanks for any info!
If you read carefully, you will notice the same complaints are being voiced over and over again, so the problem sounds way more common than it really is.
Drive a Sonata and carefully notice for tire vibration and noise at all speeds. I think you will dismiss it out of hand.
I drive a 2006 GLS auto and it is smooth as silk.
In fact, I have never driven a car as quiet and smooth as my Sonata, and I have been driving cars since 1954. I have owned all kinds of autos.
I drove for a company as a traveling factory rep. for 15 years covering over 500,000 miles and I got a new car every two years. Bobad is right! Tires can cause all kinds of differing types of shaking motions.
This one individual has a shaking problem. But he just keeps posting the same problem over and over again. You need to look up the history of a problem and see how many folks are reporting this type of a problem rather than how many posts there on the subject. Some folks post a lot on the same subject when they have a problem. The question is "How many different individuals are having this type of problem?"
I suggest that you try and test very carefully, before making any conclusion.
I will, not at all, claim that it is a common problem/design flaw. All i know is that all 3.3 models i have tried (5-6) had this "feature". The techician at Hyundai here in Denmark claimed that it is a common problem, and that the cars he had tested had this problem. If you make a search on "shimmy" you will find a thread among others:
adtchris, "Hyundai Sonata: Problems & Solutions" #1470, 27 Aug 2006 5:20 am
- Just another 5 cars with the same problem.
If you make a count of how many persons, me included, who had noticed/complained about this problem - then i guess we are still a small amount, considering how many Sonatas driving on the streets today.
Many would surely not even notice this problem even if their car had this problem - driving-pattern etc.
A lot of people have stated that their cars just run smooth as silk - and lucky for them - I certainly wish i was one of them...
Besides i have no idea at all how many Sonata owners is participationg in this forum, but i know that the mainparts doesnt.
I mean - you dont get a realistic and true picture of the eventually extent of this problem just by following this and other forums.
When i first started to write about my experience with my car here, i was obviously the only one who had noticed this problem, and i was feeling very alone with the problem.
Now it seems that more and more notice it.
And also it seems that Hyundai get some reporting back from their dealer about it. I that case i think there maybe a better chance that they take action on it, and make a solution/fix for it. Especially when you and other now really are unsure about to buy it or not because of this problem. The best way to get some action/respond is as known, when it begins to hit somebody's pocket.
Finally if you are considering a Sonata, i will suggest that you take one or more thorough testdrives. If you dont find any shimmy-problems, then i can absolute recommend the car. I all other areas i still think it is a marvellous car, that i enjoy every day except when i'm driving between 65-75 km/h...
Cheers!
I suggest getting it checked at a dealer. It could be minor or major. The dealer should be able to give you an estimated cost to repair. You could always then check with local mechanics, depending on the problem, to see if it'll save you money by them fixing it rather than the dealer.
recently purchased a '07 Sonata LX 3.3L and have noticed at 1500 miles Upper Valve train engine noise at cold start-up for apx 2-3 seconds. Once the oil light goes off (2-3 sec) the engine is smooth and quite. I have concerns about the long term effects of what seems to be an oiling issue.
Has anyone else experienced this.
Speaking of issues that could lead up to recalls, has anyone else had the latch on the center console of their 06 (and up) Sonata break off? Mine just suddenly felt loose one day, and then before I knew it, it broke free in my hands as I tried to push it back into place. The dealer could just replace the latch, but right now Hyundai is requiring them to replace the whole center console. Seems kind of silly to me, but I guess that's just their policy. Anyway, considering that the center console can fling open at just about any time (either surprising the driver and/or flinging contents all over the place), I wonder if this will become the next (minor) recall for the new Sonata. Hopefully mine is just an isolated case.
Maybe the company became aware of a latch alignment issue that necessitates replacement of the entire center console. It's unusual for any automaker to go to extra expense unless it's necessary.
I found out it is making a loud clicking noise for couple second after start up next morning.
I am 100% sure it is oil related issue. (oil not covering upper valve train fast enough) It does not happen again if I start the car again right away. But if I wait 15 to 30 minutes, enough time for engine oil on upper valve train to go down to pan, it happens again. I changed the engine oil to Mobil 1 (5W-20) and change the canister style oil filter to improve oil flow but it did not help a bit.
I just took the car to dealership and I hope they can fix this problem. The service guy didn't think it was a serious problem. I do worry about long term damage like tle2 mentioned and it is also very embarrassing for me to drive less than a year old car making this kind of noise.
I will post what happen at the dealer later.
Issue Date: 10/09/06; #06-20-002
DESCRIPTION:
An updated timing chain tensioner* is now available. This part may help reduce timing chain noise that may affect some vehicles during the inital 10 seconds of operation after prolonged storage.
VEHICLES AFFECTED:
• Model:
• 2006-07 Azera 3.8L - Produced through July 4, 2006
• 2007 Entourage 3.8L - Produced through June 26, 2006
• 2007 Santa Fe 3.3L - Produced through August 4, 2006
• 2006-07 Sonata 3.3L - Produced through August 4, 2006
*New Part No.: 24410-3C300
The owners of the newer generation, 2006+ of the Sonata deserve their own board.
Just as the owners of any older generation of this car deserve to have their own.
I notice the shape of oil pan was little different when I did oil change two days ago but I thought it was support to be like that to help drain the oil.
Mechanic told me that intake tube for oil was right above the bottom of oil pan with a very little clearance. He suspects that dented bottom of oil pan is partially blocking the oil flow to the engine.
They have to order the new oil pan and I will go ahead and let them change for little under $200 on Friday. (not cover by warranty and I could not argue about that)
I think I can change it out but I want them to work on it just incase this is not the cause of problem.
BTW the mechanic told me that all 2006 V6 sonata has some issue with noise right after ignition. He said he seen many normal cars with some degree of noise (like half second?) right after ignition. Is this ture?
I will post final result after Friday. I hope my engine did not suffered any long term damage
Can anyone tell me that where is a central locking signal control unit is located and how to get to it?
I do have instruction to program (seems very easy) but I don't want to take a part every where to find this thing.
Thanks.
That being said, many insurance companies are now using rating tiers in addition to accident points and many other things, including discounts for homeownership, good credit scores and on and on to arive at a final rate.
If you had caused a serious accident a few days ago you would not see any affect on your premium until your next renewal is issued. In some states, a six month policy cannot be up rated until the annual aniversary of the original policy.
Also be careful about the number of claims you file. Insurance companies would rather pay one $8,000 fluke accident claim than several $200 claims.
You previously posted that your son had a minor incident backing out of the garage. If that was claimed against your policy and you now filed a claim for the "keying" incident, that would make at least two claims within the last year. Most insurance companies use a 3 year look back. If you have any additional incidents (including traffic tickets) in the next two years or if you had other incidents within the last 3 years, you could be in for an unpleasant surprize 30 to 60 days before your next renewal date. Your policy could significantly increase in cost or your present company may inform you that they are not willing to renew your policy. After being "dropped" by one company, replacement coverage will likely cost much more.
If I were your agent and you called to tell me about a $300 keying incident, I would advise against filing a claim that would only net you $180 and could cost you hundreds, if not thousands (with a young driver), more per year for a couple of years. As an agent, that $180 wouldn't come out of my pocket but it could come out of your pocket many times over.
Second, I agree it is good advice to talk this kind of thing over with your agent before filing a claim. That is what I did. The minor backing accident wasn't reported because I was able to buff out and touch up the damage myself. I did file a claim for the keying incident to my wife's minivan because it meant over $300 less out of pocket for me (the TOTAL damage was over $450) and my agent was clear that the claim would not raise my rates. I have worked with this agent for many years and trust him. He seems to know his stuff, plus I don't think he is dumb enough to risk many years of future business from me for auto and homeowners insurance by telling me something that wasn't true.
Also, my son is on a different policy than my wife and I are, so how would an act of vandalism on my wife's minivan, which is a on a different policy, affect the premiums for the policy that my son is covered under? That doesn't seem to make any sense.
Sorry to read of your troubles. I also have a 2003 Sonata with leather. So far, no problems at all. First off, can you actually feel surface damage or detect actual peeling along what appear to be crack lines? If not, you may only have a build-up of past leather care product applied too liberally and dirt concentrating along to crease lines formed from your body weight while you're seated. Try a tin of common saddle soap (brand is irrelevant) to see whether you can remove your seatback's "cracking". Assuming that's not the case, unfortunately, automakers classify upholstery as a "normal wear and tear" item - not covered beyond the first 12 mos./12,000 miles in service by Hyundai. Hyundai's basically told you to go blow on the basis of "Other wear and consummable items" as listed on page 17 of your 2003 "Owner's Handbook & Warranty Information supplement booklet under, "WHAT IS NOT COVERED". If you plan to keep the car for any extended length of time, you have several choices:
1) Live with the damage.
2) Buy a replacement seat back cover through the dealership.
3) Have a local upholstery shop match the grain and color and fabricate a replacement driver's side seat back cover using the current one as a pattern. Careful with this option, though - not all independent upholsterers are vigilant about assuring that the side air bag will be able to work properly if it's called on to deploy in the event of a collision. (The original seat cover is specially scored inside its outer surface to rip open if the side-cushion airbag has to deploy.)
To late to help you now that the damage is done if it's really cracking, but I still have yet to find anything in leather care superior to good old fashioned saddle soap. Saddle soap cleans as well as anything and better than most with its fine, high-quality soap, emollients, glycerin and lanolin to maintain suppleness, and just a bit of light wax to seal out moisture and seal in the emollients. Saddle soap's readily available at any saddlery and most feed shops. Sometimes it's stocked at general retailers where they keep shoe polish.
Thanks
B.S.
Yes, they pay a bit more in the short haul due to loss of multi-car discount on the young driver's car. But they also take themselves out of the picture in the event of an accident and do not have their (the parents') rates go up in the event of the young driver's accident.
Sorry if it looked like I was trying to blast you. And, you are correct that the damage to the oil pan was probably caused by hitting something and would be covered by "collision" insurance,which unfortunately would be categorized the same a hitting another car.
Two possible solutions: 1) crank up the A/C so you don't sweat or 2) run the shirt through the washer a few times to make sure the color no longer bleeds.
When you say "leather conditioner" can you be more specific? Reason is, the Hyundai drivers manual (at least for the 2007 model) states that all you should do to care for the leather is to use some cheesecloth moistened with a mild detergent and water.
I'm certainly no expert in leather care, but I've also seen warnings to avoid using leather conditioners with silicone or waxes. I was wondering if what you are using contains either of these.
Not sure where did the smell come from. I check the hood, but didn't see anything strange.I can smell it around the hood, or even around the trunk.
Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks :confuse: