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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair
Post your Sonata problems and share any solutions here!
KarenS
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KarenS
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Owner's Clubs
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There is still a slight buzziness to my rear door panels near the armrests when traveling over choppy road surface. I have made many attempts to insulate the door components and have finally reached a compromise level of sound. I may simply apply Dyna-Mat as the source seems to be something which I cannot permanently affect. Perhaps the window regulator design?
Other than that no problems. I don't put too many miles on it ( I have had it since the end of May and have 2000 miles on it, but so far so good. I have a 01 GLS with moonroof, auto. The only other small item I have is a buszzing over rough surfaces, which seems to be from the passenger seat or the console. It is not too loud yet, so have not been able to isolate it.
Seem to average about 23 mpg in my commuter driving, which is ok, especially since I have noticed gas prices for regular have gone over $1.90 again in the town I live ( 40 miles west of Chicago).
The trouble is the issue really is subtle, random and therefore "normal"??? No diagnostic codes print when they checked it out. I wouldn't complain (My Honda actually shifted worse) except the ride is so darn smooth, this little hickup just annoys me when it happens. I'm a computer programmer, so my speculation this is a "bug" in the Electronic Transmission code ;-). . .Like I know anything about it - NOT. Still, something isn't quite right. I've only got 3000 miles on the car, so maybe the thing just hasn't loosened up yet?
This began after I had the audio system replaced, and I think the stereo shop guys messed it up when they were crawling around.
Does anyone else have this problem? How did you fix it? I'm not inclined to leave my car for a day at the dealer to get this fixed. The anchor looks like about 75 cents worth of plastic, so it probably costs $9.95.
In my case, the car started to misfire and stall.
The problem, according to my dealer, lies in a engine sensor giving feedback for the electronic ignition spark. Somewhere between an upshift or downshift and the subsequent change in RPM and required adjustment in ignition spark, something goes awry and the problem you have happens.
The sensor that initiates the spark needed to be changed in my car. Once that happened, the car ran absolutely perfectly.
Oh - and the comment about Honda's shifting harder? No kidding! I still can't understand the rave about Honda. We've had two in the immediate family and one was complete garbage (transmission failure, 30K; Valve/seal/gasket failure 60K; required a new engine and carb at 90 K) and the other is simply average.
So far, the Sonata has been a much better car, despite the sensor getting jiggy.
Have you dealer check out that ignition sensor thing and see if it solves the problem.
the tach jumps about 500-1000 rpms and the shift happens and it goes away when hot. I just took it back and was told it was normal! So we walked around to the front and took a brand new one cold out for a drive, Hmmm not normal on that one. Three weeks old and waiting for a meeting with the regional guy. It is tempting to hit it cold on that 2-3 shift and let the clutchs chew it up, It may be easier then fighting with them. And god I wish they'd train there people on what the heck and adaptive transmission is and explain what a microcontroller is. I heard way to many problems being blamed on adaptive during my recent visit.
Ian..
I expected the problem to be worse, but on the colder mornings the problem wasn't there. It came back intermittantly during the colder day on short drives but was less pronounced normally it disapears when the car warms up and the 1-2 shift becomes more labored.
I be leave the smell comes from the leather, I also have noticed the same smell inside the
Santa Fe. Both cars had beige leather. I ask the dealer and he did admit to smelling the
strange smell. Has anyone else found this problem and if so how did you correct it?
The noise subsides as I brake a few times at normal speed (40/50mph). Is this a brake pad problem and can it be fixed?
Sonata has around 7500 miles but this noise was there from the beginning and louder when the car is still cold.
.
I notice that several people on this message board were trying to resolve their problem in October of this year. Could those folks please be kind enough to update the rest of us with how or if the situation was resolved. I would like to be able to tell the technicians how this problem was addressed by other service departments. Thanks for your help
Thanks
Nate
Thanks,
Justin
It's only when it's cold. Maybe the transmission programmers missed a byte in the translation.
My 2000 Sonata GLS, w/option 13, had a vibration when it was operating between 20 and 30 MPH. It was a very definite shimmy and could be felt during acceleration or deceleration. It didn't matter whether the car was warm or cold.
The technician determined it was an internal problem with the transmission and replaced it.
No problems since then!
I now have over 30,000 miles and consider this car to be 1 of the most trouble-free vehicles I've ever owned!
LANMAN2
If your experiencing hesitant shifting (shift flaring or slippage) on the 2002 Sonata automatic transmission, don't let a dealer or service center tell you there is no problem. I had several service centers tell me it was "normal" or "they didn't notice anything."
Finally, I forced a service center here in Riverside, California to diagnose the problem (they're great!). It took a while, and I had to leave my car overnight. But here's the answer.
The Power Control Module (a computerized part) that controls when the auto. trans. shifts needs to be updated. The service center contacted Hydundai, and Hyundai indicated they knew of the problem and have manufactured an updated Power Control Module. The service center, however, has to do a "one-for-one" exchange, which means they have to remove the part, send it to Hyundai, and then receive the new part and install it (all covered under warranty of course). But it means your car will be in the shop for a couple of days. I plan on requiring Hyundai to give me a rental car for that period pursuant to their warranty.
Good Luck!
Thanks,
Justin
Anyone else have this problem - and what did you do?
What I am getting at is, that when you put a connector onto aluminum and run electricity through it, it will start to oxidize and corrode. Now, if any of the connections are 'growing' you're alternator maybe getting the 'wrong signals' and think the battery is charged. If you're handy with a voltmeter, start the car, turn on every thing and check the voltage drop from the casing on the alternator to the neg terminal on the battery. There should be very little voltage (0.1v) drop, also check the voltage on the battery while the car is running, should be 13.2-14.0 volts (ballpark). If you're starting to get nowhere fast, check the voltage at the cigarette ligther (easy access point) while your driving. If youre lights are dimming and the voltage is ~13.5 volts, I don't think its the alternator. Have you replaced the headlight bulbs recently?
Hope this helps.
Nate
I've got my Sonata v6 two weeks ago. Everything seems to be OK except the gas consumption. I found that through out the city it was 15-16 liters per 100km and 9.2 on highway. (Specification says 11.8 and 7.3 respectivly).On my odometer just 900km. I did my measurements correctly no doubts.
Have anyone tried to calculate the gas consumption? Any ideas what could be causing the problem? Thank you in advance.
I too have noticed a higher than expected gas consumption, but I attributed it to letting the car sit in the driveway for 5 minutes to let it warm up a bit. I am trying to find what exactly is causing the extra consumption. Is it the rear/mirror defroster or the a/c being on with the windshield defrost? (you can turn off by hitting the a/c button after the defrost it pushed, I really can't see using the a/c when it's 20 degrees outside and the windshield is heavily frosted).
I'm averaging 21 mpg (9.15km/liter?) with 50/50 highway/city. I'm not sure on the math, but I think it's 62miles/100km and 3.7liters/gallon or is it more liters/gallon?
Thank you for your response. The gas consumption in your case will be 11.2 liters per 100 km ( city/highway 50/50). BTW the spec says it's has to be 10. This is just 12% higher. Not too bad. Mine is 25-35% higher. Just FYI if you'd like to convert the miles/gallon into km/liters here is the formula "2.354 : miles/gallon x 100". I am from Europe that's why I use km/liters. I am aware of impacting a cold weather, short rides, air conditioner and extra electrical equipment on total gas consumption. I would accept if the gas consumption was 10-15% higher as it's in your case, but 25-35% sounds too much. There is another thing that could be causing the problem. It's a driving style. Yes, I like stepping on gas, but for now while I am going through the break-in period I have changed my habits. Unfortunately, as you can see it didn't help much. What do you think about octane? The spec was given for 87 or 91? I think for 87. So for now I am feeding my baby with 92(and afraid of spoiling her), no sharp acceleration, no overload, no extra electrical stuff. We'll see after 2000km. It's 1150km on it.
Another thing I've noticed is the transmission slip. On my car it happens once every time after I park my car for at least 15 min. Then it's gone. I don't know if I should take it to the mechanic or leave it as it is.
All have been very reliable. The only differences I noticed were the shift points are at higher revs. on the 4 cyl. and the engine noise was slightly higher when cruising at 65 M.P.H. and above. Also, gas mileage is slightly better in the 4 cyl.
The warranty is very good! We have NO complaints!
You do NOT need to have all maintainance work performed by a Hyundai dealer, but you should be prepared to show them proof of proper maintainance. Even if you do your own oil changes, etc. make sure you record them in the owner's book, at the proper intervals, and keep receipts for your parts purchases.
After all, if I were to expect Hyundai to rebuild a motor or transmission, for free, in the year 2011 I think the least I can do is prove to them I took good care of the car.
I wish you success in your purchase. Please keep us posted about your experiences.
LANMAN2
Today, on the highway after about 20 mins driving, the light went ON and at the same time a car shifted to lower gear. I was driving app. at 60mph and 2.2RPM, so when it happened it went to 3.2 RPM. I felt that the engine was weaker than usual. After stopping the engine for few minutes, everything appeared to be as usual OK. Then it happened 2 times again, while driving home.
Any ideas?
Thanks
So make sure you call your dealer to make sure they have the regulator in stock before you have to make 2 trips.
The dealership guys instantly recognized it as a noisy fuel pump and ordered a new one. It is being replaced under warranty. Once again I am impressed with Zimbrick Hyundai in Madison, Wisconsin. Their service department is top notch.
I have a 2001 Sonata with a problem that is puzzling the dealership. I am hoping someone else has had this problem too.
Last week I drove to the grocery store with no problem. When I came out and tried to start the vehicle, I could not. There was power to everything (windows, radio, etc). But when you turn the key, absolutely no sound emitted. It was just dead. It was like the car wasn't in park or something. I took it out of park and put it back in. Nothing. I put it in Neutral. Nothing. Called Hyundia Road Side [non-permissible content removed].- they hauled it off to the nearest dealer. Two days later, I got it back with a new starter. No problem, right? Wrong. 24 hours later, it wouldn't start again. Once again, I call HRSA. They haul it off to the nearest Dealer (not the same one that had it earlier). This dealer was, however, the one that sold it to me. Well the car got towed there after closing on a Saturday. So no one even got to look at it until Monday morning. However, the dealership was soo busy that they didn't get to pull it into a bay until Tuesday afternoon. By that time, the tech went out to the car, started it just fine and pulled it in. Now the dealership says "There's nothing wrong with it." Help!!! This car is becoming very unreliable. If anyone has had this problem please let me know.
Thank you
Tell service center to get out of their peajammas
and check/clean ground, or you can do it your self.
Also if it happens again connect jumper cable from ground terminal on batt to frame of (Your )car and try start. This action will verify my guess. Good luck.