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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    One of the problems with a public forum like this is that complainers like you sometimes don't state all the "facts" or sometimes ANY of them so responders like me cannot piece together a "guess" and not even a good guess sometimes as to what may be wrong. I really don't know what to suggest. From what you say I think you may have serious engine problems. As to why the dealer cannot/will not suggest to you that maybe you should think about a new car I don't know but from what I am hearing that is what you probably need. I am going to try to reply to things item by item.
    1. If you bought this 2002 Sonata new it has a 100K/10 year drivetrain warranty. If you have less than 100K miles it should be in effect. If you bought it used the original 100K warranty is not valid..it is valid for the original owner and is not transferrable BUT there still remains some portion of the original warranty. I seem to recall you bought it new or maybe it is another of the things I got wrong.
    2. Hyundai recommends you change the timing belt @ 60K miles and if yours broke @ 55K miles it would indeed be a warranty issue. That means you should NOT have had to pay for that service however both engines Hyundai used that year in its Sonata (the 2.7 liter V-6 and the 2.4 liter, I think, I4 cylinder)are both interference engines. As I tried to explain in a simplified form earlier if your timing belt breaks while the engine is running the chances are excellent that certain internal reciprocating parts (the pistons and the valves) will clash together with bad results. Normally the timing belt keeps the synchronization of these parts in check and they continue to miss each other in a controlled little dance as the engine does its normal thing (runs). So, if that belt breaks the car will immediately stop (as you found out) but will incur SOME damage from relatively easily repairable (doesn't mean replace the belt and drive home) to severe which requires a major engine rebuild. I should state that timing belts USUALLY can continue to function well past the 60K suggested replacement Hyundai states. Auto manufactures like to err on the low side for things that potentially will cause major warranty costs for them i.e. rebuilding an engine under warranty. So, if yours actually broke at 55K miles and you bought the car new clearly (unless there are details I don't know about concerning your particular case) Hyundai is on the hook for subsequent engine repair/replacement. Your dealer isn't doing you any favors by simply not telling you that there was probably engine damage the first time around. I know for a fact that when a timing belt breaks on an interference engine SOMETHING always happens and the fact your engine even runs at all is a huge bit of good luck in your favor...the fact the dealer replaced the belt and sent you on a long road trip afterward is a major bit of stupidity. All this is in my opinion of course and no offense but there may be a big pile of "minor" details you haven't even stated.
    3. Your engine is trying to tell you something by all the stalling...overheating..lack of power...etc. I think the message is: " I'm knock, knock, knockin' on heavens door" simply put it is on its way home to the big recycler in the sky. Temperature dash gages do not stick and even if they did it wouldn't cause overheating but simply mis-report it if it did. The fact there was no coolant in your car is certainly the reason for the overheating..a symptom but not the reason for no coolant in your car. If this is the second time the thing overheated and the second time the dealer had a chance to look at it then they ARE incompetent because 11 or more quarts of coolant just doesn't disappear into thin air. Do you notice puddles of green liquid where you park? This is just another symptom of impending engine failure that may lead back to the initial belt breaking.
    4. All the other issues with your door pulls, battery (the white stuff is corrosion by the way and should be cleaned with vinegar) wiper blades and arm is,in my opinion, minor at this point and can be addressed if/when the engine survives.
    5. YES, if you can present a linear case complete with documentation concerning your woes that started with the premature failure of the timing belt (that was clearly under warranty) and ended with the dealership sending you on your way with a faulty or damaged engine as a result of that premature failure and now results in a non-functioning, non reliable vehicle that has various issues including lack of power..stalling..overheating..mechanical noise then absolutely go to the top..the owner BUT go up the chain of command i.e. the service writer..the service manager...the general manager...the owner..and open a case file with Hyundai (generally they don't like to hear of dealers (their representatives in this country)screwing their customers. However, make sure you have "your ducks in a row" as they say because this particular dealer (if they are actually as incompetent/condecending to you as it seems from here) will certainly try to derail your case for an engine rebuild/new engine on some minor detail such as your lack of regular maintainence. Good luck. And remember that as you state I may indeed "have things wrong"...
  • meg1962meg1962 Member Posts: 6
    Oh my god it sounds like my car. If you go to Hyundai web site there is an area that you can contact them. You have to really search around for it. Contact them. I threatened to call BBB State Attorney Generals off, Dear Abby (LOL) anyone who would listen about the shoddy repairs and low quality vehicle. By all means go to the owner or manager of the dealership. Make sure there are potential customers in the show room and raise your voice. That is probably the quickest way for them to really pay attention.
  • meg1962meg1962 Member Posts: 6
    My dealership told me it has three timing belts. I would be more than happy to scan the repair bill for it. The mechanic that I actually trust also told me the vehicle has three timing belts.

    As far as the oxygen sensor, the check engine light has not come on. We know something is wrong when sitting at a traffic light and the car starts to bump and surge that withing a few days the surging and stalling will start.

    A dealer problem? This is my second dealership. The first dealership went out of business. I do condemn Hyundai, we also own a 92 ford that has not ever been on a tow truck has not had to be taken in for three oxygen sensor issues, two timing belt issues, body seal issues,or wheel bearing problems. I stand by the fact that this is a substand vehicle. It should be further stated that the 100,000 mile or year warrany is actually on 5 & 5 bumper to bumper. After 50,000 everything seems to fall apart and the dealership charges for all repairs.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Please tell me the year,model,and engine of the Hyundai product you have. All 4 cylinder engines from all manufacturers have but one (1) timing belt. All that I know of that have a V-6 engine also have one (1). A longer belt certainly but still only one timing belt. I do not profess to know all things automotive but I believe I am correct about this however I am ready to be proven wrong.
    Once again if your car is pre-1995 (in most cases) it has a diagnostic system called OBDI and this system isn't as complete as post 1995 (1996 up to present)OBDII systems. An OBDII system will almost certainly illuminate a check engine lamp if one of your oxygen sensors shows evidence of failure although sometimes if your sensor "flickers" a very brief period of momentary misbehaving (lets not call it a hard or permanent failure yet) it may store a code but not illuminate until things get worse. So, your car may still have a fault code stored that needs to be read in order to help diagnose the cause your symptoms. Of course it may be that you need new plugs or some other reason for the stalling. Just another reason to take it somewhere where the codes, if any, can be read and interpreted. Many auto parts stores e.g. AutoZone..Advance etc will read any codes as a customer service free of charge and of course your dealer will do it though probably not free.
    Feel free to condemn Hyundai but my experiences with the brand is diametrically opposed to what you claim. Our Santa Fe has cleared 100K with only a digital clock replacement (the display randomly disappeared) within the first 5K miles and replaced under warranty AND our 2000 Elantra (that my son drives on a 100 miles per day commute) now has 160K+ miles with only an alternator replacement about 10,000 miles ago. So you have a 92 Ford that has been trouble free? Congradulations...I owned Fords(many of them) before Hyundai and replaced at least two transmissions..two or three AC compressors...lots of power window motors..a couple power door locks actuators..lots of alternators and on and on. So if you want to discuss substandard vehicles well, lets go!
    A new Hyundai has a 100K mile/10 year drivetrain warranty as long as the original owner retains it. It is not transferrable to subsequent owners. It also has a 50K mile/5 year bumper to bumper warranty that IS transferrable to a second owner. The remaining balance is what gets transferred e.g. a 2 year old Hyundai with 25K miles still has 25K miles/3years remaining. There is probably some fine print mumbo jumbo involved with regard to maintainence but I believe the transfer is straight forward. This entire warranty package is much more that you can expect to get with almost..not almost... every other vehicle manufacturer. Even much vaunted Honda has a 3year/36K mile
    warranty. So, no the 100K mile warranty is just that for the original owner and if used the remainder of the 5K mile/5 year bumper to bumper which may STILL be more than offered on a NEW Honda, Toyota etc.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    As a further rebuttal to your insistance that your vehicle has "three timing belts" I have researched using the Dayco website (www.daycoproducts.com). Dayco manufacturers belts (including timing and accessory) and hoses for the auto industry and the following information was found using a 2002 Hyundai Sonata as the base for reference.
    1.) The 2.4 liter 4 cylinder uses three belts in total. Belt #1 drives the alternator and water pump and is Dayco part #5040373. Belt #2 drives the A.C. compressor and the power steering pump and is Dayco part# 5050547. Belt #3 IS the timing belt...length 65.60 inches Dayco part#95313.
    2.) The 2.7 liter V-6 uses two belts in total. Belt #1 is a multiple accessory (serpentine)belt that drives multiple accessories. This means is drives everything including AC compressor, power steering pump, alternator. Its part number is #5060790. The second belt is the timing belt for this engine...#95315.
    From this research I can determine that you have a 4 cylinder Sonata if it is a 2002 because it has three(3) belts in total but only one (1) timing belt. Probably a 2001 and 2003 on up as well have this belt configuration. So, you see that you cannot believe everything that you read,even if the dealership writes it.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    FWIW the Hyundai bumper-to-bumper warranty is 5 years, 60k miles, not 50k.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Backy, I knew you would bail me out if I misrepresented something..thanks
    And to you madam..this means your warranty is even better than I originally stated.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Sreaming (raising your voice in all its various forms) probably isn't the best...first impression you should be making to a general manager or owner. I would instead quietly,and rationally present a well documented, linear case showing how things went downhill after "his" dealership "repaired" my vehicle multiple times and how it went from a reliable comfortable family transport to become a safety hazard when it stops at will, makes mechanical noise, has to be towed and generally makes you uncomfortable to drive. If all else fails picket in front...just kidding!!! And to "meg1962"..no wonder you have issues with reliable repairs at your dealership(s)... just kidding..not!!
  • whisper1whisper1 Member Posts: 50
    07 V6 loaded, 3000km.

    Question on adjustable pedal.
    1) Random sligth vibration on gas pedal.
    2) Two occasions, felt a click sound on the brake pedal, like two pieces matched to a slot.
    3) Noise from engine bay after few seconds of driving. Sounded like a test or calibration cycle for some mechanical components.

    Are these normal or I am too sensitivie and picky?
  • sclark1sclark1 Member Posts: 9
    Dear targettuning,

    First, thank you for writing such a detailed response. I must say, however, that this is the second time that the way you wrote to me was rude and condescending. Why is that? I came here to this forum to seek answers to what the problems I've had may be. I came here to get advice. Yet, you approach me like I'm an idiot who does nothing but complain. I am neither and really didn't deserve being talked down to. I didn't "miss" anything... I didn't leave out any "facts" and your "complainer" label doesn't fit me either. If you click on the link to my name, you are able to read through my posts/facts.

    All of that being said, "maybe" you didn't mean to come at me like you did. "Maybe" you didn't mean to insult me or dummy me down. When we write, it is sometimes difficult to convey the tone we want to convey. Maybe that's what has happened here.... I don't know.

    Nonetheless, I do appreciate you explaining some of the mechanical issues. I do believe I have a strong case against their crappy repairs (and I use that term loosely). I even have a receipt from Firestone that clearly states that the belt that shredded in half on my road trip did so because it was not adjusted properly. I know some of this may seem too proposterous... because it's quite unbelievable to me too. Unfortunately, it is the nightmare I have been living for the last three months.

    Take care.
  • meg1962meg1962 Member Posts: 6
    I wouldn't. If I had it all to do over again I would not purchase any hyundai. I have had nothing but problems. The two dealerships I've been to have been unresponsive, irresponsible, and dishonest. These cars should not be having these many problems.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    What?! I will have to go back and read what I wrote but I certainly don't feel that I am/was/tried to be/ rude OR condescending in either reply at least it wasn't my intent. What I did write tried to take into account that I am speaking (typing) to an unknown person who may or may not have told me enough for a valid guestimate (it is difficult ranging to impossible to diagnose automobile problems long distance). For all I know you may be a 12 year old with too much summer vacation time playing around for fun or a Hyundai hater who is writing a fictional account of a non existing car (these both have been known to happen). I would apologize but I am not quite sure what part offended you (well to be honest there are some places that my lack of finesse shows) but if my style and/or the "tone" of my reply bothers or insults you then I will allow someone with better manners and more finesse to take over. I am cynical about information in public forum posts anyhow and it shows quite frequently. In your case however I genuinely tried to be helpful but I guess my particular style sometimes offends. Besides I have about covered all that I can convey about your situation. Good luck then....and please go to the general manager/owner with that sequence of events and do it in a calm manner..no screaming on the showroom floor as meg1962 suggests and do keep us informed.
    P.S. The "complainer" term was used in its generic form. As in: you...the person having certain specific complaints=complainer in this particular instance. I wasn't labeling you as a COMPLAINER as in one who constantly complains. Get it??
  • meg1962meg1962 Member Posts: 6
    It is a 2002 Hyundai sonata.GL 6 cyl v type DOHC. I am so incredibly frustrated with the treatment I have received thus far from the dealerships. I have contacted Hyundai directly but have honestly become so jaded by my previous experiences that I'm bracing for another volley of lies and misdirection. If the vehicle truly has only one timing belt then I would say the dealership is in a touch of trouble because they replaced the same part twice in one year and charged us nearly $1,100 for the second go change. Do you wonder at my anger?
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Ok then your vehicle has 1 timing belt (trust me on this or visit the Dayco web site for confirmation) and 1 accessory belt (a serpentine belt as previously described). The timing belt change should have been ~ $400-500 (in labor depending on your local labor rate could be more..could be less) plus the cost of the belt. However it is prudent to also change the water pump, idler pulleys, camshafts and crankshaft oil seals, and belt tensioner while the mechanic had those parts exposed because they are in the same specific area as the belt and to change the belt without changing these other parts given the labor intensive job it is would be well, not smart. Since you say the bill was $1100.00 it appears that those other parts were also changed (you can check your original receipt) the second time anyhow. If however on the first belt change they didn't change the water pump or the crankshaft or camshafts oil seals or the idler pulleys the following COULD have happened in the intervening year.
    1. the old water pump could have developed a leak (or a new pump can too for that matter) and since the labor to remove the AC compressor the power steering pump and the alternator is required to fix that they might have put in a new belt..just because it is relatively cheap and may have been damaged by the leak (not likely water would damage the belt however) but the pump WOULD have to be replaced regardless.
    2. if one of the camshaft seals(there are 2 ea) or the crankshaft seal leaked oil that would have contaminated your timing belt damaging it (more likely oil would damage the belt) and belt replacement would be indicated. or
    3. If one of the idler pulley bearing packs failed the pulley would not freely rotate causing the belt to slide over that frozen pulley. The new belt would wear because it is sliding over that pulley instead of rotating over it. Once again replacement is indicated.
    All these senarios are based on the notion your dealer either did not replace any of those parts the first time or if he did the new replaced part failed.
    Since Hyundai suggests belt replacement @ 60K miles it is unlikely that the second replacement was based on an additional 60K miles driven in a year. I suppose you could inquire the reason for the second replacement,specifically.
    Here is a thought, if the dealer replaced those things last year and if he used genuine Hyundai repair parts then those parts are warranted for 1 year against failure. I do not know about labor costs needed to replace a failed warranted part however but if you only had to pay 1/2 your $1100 bill that would be a good thing..no? These are some things you should try to check on.
  • sclark1sclark1 Member Posts: 9
    targettuning,

    I know you were trying to help, and I, again, sincerely thank you for that. In regards to your use of the term complainer and stating the possibility of me being a 12 year old or Hyundai-hater, etc. I assure you, I'm not. I can also assure you that I'm an honors MBA graduate, a published author for an Army publication, and that I do "get" the English language. Perhaps "customer" would have been a better word choice, but it's all moot at this point. I just wanted to thank you for the technical information you provided and let you know how part of your replies came across the screen.

    IRT my current situation, I have left a voicemail (he wasn't in) and sent an e-mail to the owner of this dealership. I was very calm and requested an appointment with him to discuss the inadequate repairs that have twice come out of the service department there. As of 5:05 p.m. EST, I have yet to receive any reply or any word from the owner or the service department.

    I will keep you posted on his response or lack thereof and let you know what the service department tells me THIS time. What you said to meg about the water pump and everything else that should be replaced makes me question the work they did on my belt initially. I wonder if they did any of that? I doubt it. And then I wonder how driving four hours on the highway on a poorly adjusted belt that was shredding damaged everything under the hood. *sigh* I should have taken auto mechanics in high school... all the book and computer knowledge isn't helping me much right now.

    You take care and enjoy your weekend.

    p.s. Did I mention that half of the wipers on the loaner car I got (07 Sonata) don't work? When the wipers are on, the bigger blade on the passenger side doesn't budge... only the wiper on the driver's side works. *sighs* Time for a Corona, or two.
  • bill304bill304 Member Posts: 18
    -I was checking my manual and it states the timing bel(s) ? should be checked and replaced at 50k, I'm assuming erroring on the cautious side. Can anyone tell me approx. what the fee is incl parts/labor ?

    I live in the metro Phila area. Appreciate any replies with further info on any other items that should be checked out at 50k as well
    thanks-bill
  • bill304bill304 Member Posts: 18
    -I wanted to know if the SE version of the 2006-07 Sonanta has any real "sport" The V6 in the gls and Limited models are all the same, so is it the suspension ?.... Is the Limited V6 the only model that has the Infinity stereo available ?

    Also how does the new 4cyclinder engine with 162hp rate ? Is it underpowered for the Sonata, because my 2002 V6 seems a bit to weak for the cars weight. Does the 4 cycl really work well, normally I'd dismiss it but with gas prices as they are it merits consideration.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    For '06 the Sonata trims were: GL, GLS & LX. For '07 Hyundai changed the names to GLS (the old GL), SE (old GLS) and Limited (old LX). None of these trim names, as far as I know, were supposedly "sport" versions.

    Hyundai may be shifting gears for the '08's since the SE will have a spoiler. I don't recall much about the limited amount of '08 info I have seen, other than I probably wouldn't want an SE since I don't care for spoilers.
  • irismgirismg Member Posts: 345
    Actually, since about 1998 the Toyota Corolla's 4 cylinder engine doesn't have a belt, but a chain.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    I have the 06 I4 and find it to have all the power I need. I can pass cars on the road doing 75 MPH with no problem. Once the VVT kicks in the car flies. I get great gas mileage around town but when I hit the Interstate at 80+ MPH the MPG drops off. Most of my driving is around town anyway so it works for me. I do notice when I am in construction zones with a 65 MPH limit and I reset the computer my MPG reads 33-35.
  • bill304bill304 Member Posts: 18
    - Does the 06-07 Sonata 4 cycl have the ccvt (?) type of automatic transmission. Can anyone explain to a novice car guy what the new transmission is all about and what it does differantly from the older automatic 4 banger

    - Does it adapt to driving condtions, drivers habits etc ? Also is there any real "sport " in the SE model that makes it worth the extra bucks ?

    How has the mpg been with the new 162hp four ? With the 2002 base with a 2.7L V6 I'm only getting 17-18 mpg average, I live in a metropolitan area near Phila with freeway driving 50%/ speeds averaging 60-65 and stop/start on the local highways/streets. I don't have a heavy foot except to get around day dreamers hogging the passing lanes.

    Are the new controls for climate control/stereo on the steering wheel/dash designed better for adjusting while driving ? Whats the verdict on the base stereo system (excluding the Infinity available on the Limited)

    How would you rate the cloth interior for durability, when I got the 2002 base model the cloth was really thin on the seating, which you don't really notice until you have had the car for awhile.

    Did anyone buy a sonata with the deep metallic blue color....,what a beautiful finish in my opinion. and has the finish held up esp if you live in the northeast US with hard winters/snow/sleet/road chemicals.

    Does anyone wish they had the leather interior after getting the premium cloth style ? What does everyone think of the new body style starting with the 2006 model.I am leaning towards buying the 06/07 but to be honest the Fusion is one sedan that seems to break the mold of the bland styling so many mainstream sedans have but then again it is a ford product with a short 3 yr/36,000 mile warrenty so how good can it really be ?

    I know I've asked a lot but I usually keep a car five to six years. Thanking everyone in advance for their info !
  • hotrod54hotrod54 Member Posts: 82
    Okay, you know what people, calm down. I don't know what qualifications your dealer service personnel have or what the ir attitude is, I don't know why your regular "mechanic" says there are 3 timing belts...there is no such thing on any car, even race cars. Does not exist. There is 1 and only 1 timing belt on your engine. Someone is jerking your proverbial chain. In addition, as tagettuning has stated, most engines with timing belts, Hyundai included, are what are called interference designed engines...tolerances are extremely close internally and there is absolutely no question that internal engine damage will occur when the belt breaks...it sounds like you are getting lots of bad info. By the way, as I have stated in a number of posts, I put 332,300 miles on my 03 Sonata V6 without any major problems; before getting my 07. The 03 was the same as your 02. Hope this helps to reinforce that you really need to seek out a really well qualified service department/shop. :shades:
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The '06-08 4-cylinder Sonata has a conventional 4-speed automatic transmission with SHIFTRONIC, that is, you can manually shift up and down the gear range. Maybe you are confusing the CVVT engine in the Sonata with the transmission. The transmission is adaptive in that it is computer-controlled and will adjust its shift points to match driving behavior. So if you drive gently, it will shift sooner. If you drive it hard, it will rev higher before shifting.

    "Sport" in the SE is 17" alloys and, for 2008, a rear spoiler. That's about it. For 2007, you also get a V6 with the SE. For 2008 you can get either the I4 or V6 on the SE.

    I am not aware of any climate controls on the Sonata's steering wheel. There's cruise and audio controls. Some of the audio controls are hidden from view, so you'd have to find them by feel (which I expect would be easy after you're used to them). I've found the base stereo adequate. Of course now it includes XM radio too.

    The 2008 GLS has a new cloth in the interior. It reminds me of the cloth in the Azera SE. It feels durable enough, but I've only driven the Sonata as rentals so I have no idea how it holds up. I've never seen any wear on the interiors of the rentals I've driven (2006-2008 years).

    I think the Fusion is a pretty nice car, although I prefer the styling of the Milan. Definitely compare the Fusion to the Sonata. Also you might want to drive the Optima, which has the same engine as the I4 Sonata but has a 5-speed automatic and IMO a nicer interior. The Optima has the same warranty as the Sonata.
  • waltchanwaltchan Member Posts: 124
    I have two minor defects in my new 2007.5 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4-cylinder with the XM radio. I hope mines is not a lemon. The recirculating A/C buton gets stuck inside and does not release out and the dashboard has the rattle sound inside if turning the steering wheel to the left and drive only one mile speed. Anybody experiencing these issues? Mines is one of the first 4-cylinder Sonatas to be assembled in USA than in South Korea, so maybe that explains why. :confuse: I will head to the dealer soon.
  • azeradaveazeradave Member Posts: 42
    I thought "all" Sonatas were built in Birmingham, AL.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    They all are built in Birmingham now. Initially, just the 6 cyl were built in the USA. Later on, the 4 cyl were added to the Birmingham plant. I don't know the date when they started making the 4 cyl in Birmingham. I thought it was before the 4 cyl with XM was introduced.
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    I hate to burst your bubble, but they are built in MONTGOMERY, Alabama.
    van
  • lightfootfllightfootfl Member Posts: 442
    Check again, MONTGOMERY, Alabama
    van
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    That review has been removed. As bhmr59 noted, the claims it was making about warranty requirements are patently false, so I reported it and that was the end of that.

    FYI, there is a "report this review" (or some such wording) button under each review that everyone should consider using if a review strikes you as being inappropriate for whatever reason. This will trigger an examination of the review in question and if it really does appear to be inappropriate, it will be removed.

    Thanks for your post and thanks to bhmr59 for his response.
  • caazcaaz Member Posts: 209
    Been a while since ive been on..... Just to set the record straight....Targetuning...the highrest price ive ever seen advertised for a timing belt was 249.00 And just to let you know, last week i had a mechanic replace the timing belt, with water pump, tensioners etc.on my daughters Metro...4 cyl not 3...i bought the parts from Autozone.. brought them to the mechanic and he charged me 70.00 dollars labor..the parts were around 80.00 It pays to know how to shop, some do it better than others for car repairs...
    caaz

    p.s. 149.00 is the highest ive ever paid for a timing belt replacement on any car. rates are competetive here in So Cal.....you just have to shop..some people buy thier shoes at Nordstroms for 250.00 others buy the same shoes at the nordstroms rack,,,for 100.00... same company...same shoe...smarter shopper
  • cabbycabby Member Posts: 8
    This does not specifically pertain to sonatas, but my new 07 platinum front tires always looks a little flat to the naked eye. Rear ones do not. Cold pressures are ~31-33 in the front, and ~33-35 in the rears. Recommended is 30 on all four tires. Is this a concern?? Any opinion is appreciated for this sophomoric car owner.
  • macakavamacakava Member Posts: 775
    Sheer physical weight distribution is the problem! Being a FWD, more weight is on the front tires, about 60% to the front vs about 40% to the rear.

    The lower pressure in your front tires will also add to the more flatness in those tires. I keep the tire pressure at about 33lbs at all 4 tires in my 2007 Limited. Recommended is 30 - a bit higher would give slightly more mpg due to reduced rolling resistance at the expense of a slightly harsher ride.

    I do not see the logic of having different tire pressures at frnot vs rear. With lower pressure, the front tires should have more traction(and more wear due to increased rolling resistance)than the rear - if big enough, this difference can result in an unsafe driving situation.
  • vegas60vegas60 Member Posts: 6
    I have a sonata 2005 and this morning as i left for work went around the corner and car lost power as i tried to accelerate.then it caught and I drove to work just fine..what is up with it ? It has less then 19,000 miles on it...Thanks for any insight
    Linda
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    Cabby,
    You will notice a much smoother ride with the tires at 30 psi all the way around. You only need 35 psi if you plan on driving 120 MPH+
    Craig
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    Does it do this all the time? Cold Sonata engines tend to hold themselves back until the oil pressure pumps up or something. I notice this on my car, 20,000 mile 06.
  • cabbycabby Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the tips you guys. How about gas mileage? Better mpg with 35 vs 30?
  • ngeorge1ngeorge1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a manual shift 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 5400 miles on it - and the clutch is gone! The dealer is telling me that the clutch isn't covered in the warranty.

    First, does this make sense that I could have destroyed the lining of the clutch (not the clutch plate) in 5000+ miles?
    Secondly, shouldn't the clutch lining be covered by the drive train warranty?

    I am SOOOOO disappointed in this car! :sick:
  • geffengeffen Member Posts: 278
    I've been test driving and i'm considering the 07 Sonata GLS has there been many issues or glitches on the 07 models?
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    OK I concede that labor rates...complexity of the vehicle being worked on...competence of the mechanic....is this a high school student taking an auto repair course "moonlighting/practicing" on your car or a certified tech? There are quite a few variables but "for the record" I JUST had the timing belt, water pump, tensioners,belt tensioner, cam and crank shaft seals replaced on my 1995 Dodge Stratus ES with 2.5 liter V-6. I purchased the parts and my regular Dodge dealer did the work and the job was a bit over $600.00 including the $135.00 or so I spent for the belt tensioner only available as a Dodge part but NOT including the other parts I brought in. I would guess the V-6 crammed into the Stratus was quite a bit harder to work on than a Geo Metro (time is indeed money). So the simpler the car the less involved and the cheaper the price. Not only does it pay to shop around (which I do when buying shoes) but it may also pay to drive a simple,uncomplicated,small engined car. Additionally, I do not pick the person doing my car repairs by shopping around for the cheapest price like I'm buying ah, shoes but instead tend to deal with one or two dealers/mechanics I have built a trust with over years or even decades. In summary: timing belts like everything else are priced according to vehicle complexity and I doubt a shop can post a "one size fits all" price for this.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    Comments:
    1. No,the clutch disc (with friction material) being a "wear-out" item like brake pads and wiper blades are not typically covered under the warranty. That said the clutch absolutely should NOT have failed at 5400 miles. So, it may be that some other part of the clutch/manual transmission system failed. If the clutch DID fail I would say you should be able to point out to your dealer that given the mileage there is no way you should have had this problem and perhaps they should consider replacing it for good will if nothing else. I am assuming you do not do smokey burn-outs at every stop sign and traffic light. Whatever else this is an abnormal occurrance and it should be taken as a defect by the dealer who should replace the clutch and while removing/replacing it find the reason it happened and eliminate it. You will be happy and Hyundai may find out the reason for an early clutch failure Win win.
  • vabearvabear Member Posts: 18
    The thing to remember is that you are running a low profile (55 aspect ratio)radial tire an d the side walls are only about 4"tall so the tires may always look low on air. Another thing, since the tire sidewall acts as a shock absorber, you may experience a firmer ride on these tires.
  • vegas60vegas60 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks to those who gave some feed back.....My husband made some call's and the conc-senus was we might have gotton some water in the gas we had put in so were advised to use Lucas fuel treatment...so he bought a bottle and put it in..so far so good ..nice to have a forum of just Hyundai people...Take care!
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hope that takes care of it. But either way, don't be a stranger! :)
  • vegas60vegas60 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks so do I! We even had the codes checked and all was clear..they can't fix it unless it throws a code..well duh..I don't do well with :sick: cars.. :shades: ..I won't be a stranger..hubby is always wanting to know about the car and he has tricked it out some..actually we are old Mopar people ..
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    see if you can re-create / duplicate it perhaps in an open / disserted parking lot.

    doubtful it's a fuel delivery problem.

    would be interesting if it were some form of vehicle stability control engaging.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    Vegas,
    Do you have pics in your carspace? Post some for all to see. Let's see what hubby has done.
  • dbgeorge1dbgeorge1 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same exact car.2000 GLS v-6 and less than two years ago I had my transmission replaced because it was stalling and downshifting each time I tried to accelerate the car..

    It was under warranty then...and now 20,000 miles later it is doing the same exact thing.
    when ammco worked on it before, they were convinced it was not a transmission problem.. soo if its just the engine sensor giving feedback, who can detect this and where should i go to figure out if thats the problem??

    this doesnt occur everytime i drive the car... sometimes it is smooth,running normal,and sometimes it is hesitant and downshifting..

    I dont understand why this is occuring????
  • presonatabuyerpresonatabuyer Member Posts: 5
    My car is 2006 Sonata GLS v6.
    Last Tuesday, I took my car into the Hyundai service due to clucking noise from the engine when I start the engine. :sick:

    They said that my car needed to replace the timing chain tensioner. And I got my car back today. I believe the clucking noise is gone. But I can hear more annoying noise, grinding metal sound. I can't hear it when I go fast. But when I go slow, I can definitelyhear the grinding metal sound from the engine. I'm not sure it is because I just replace the tensioner and it will be gone in few days, or it is something wrong. Any comment will be appreciated. :mad:
  • autocallautocall Member Posts: 2
    the clutch is a wear item. The life of it varies with the cars driving habits. I have seen hyundai clutches last 120,000 plus miles and I've seen clutches only last 3,000 miles. Like brake pads. Check your front tires, there condition might give a mechanic an idea of how the car has been treated.
  • autocallautocall Member Posts: 2
    can you change the pitch of the noise by turning the a/c on and off? if so you may have an a/c clutch problem, or tensionor/dampner problem?
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