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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • midas69midas69 Member Posts: 118
    Not even much of a problem to get them off. Heat the bolts with a torch and they'll come right off.
  • tmorrow411tmorrow411 Member Posts: 11
    That rust is very normal; unless a car has stainless steel exhaust, which is more expensive, so it's rarely used.
  • schumiaschumia Member Posts: 6
    HI all,

    Thanks for the response.

    I showed the photos to a mechanic I typically go to and he seconded most of what you said - that it's just normal wear. Although he did comment for a 1 1/2 yr old car, the coupling does seem to be a bit more rusted than normal, but of course it all depends on the environment.

    Jeff
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Follow up: just completed the drain and fill with 50/50 Prestone. Drain plug for coolant is on passenger side of radiator. About 1 gal came out. PS: to get at the drain plug for the coolant AND the transmission fluid, you need to remove 3 plastic covers under the car. Easy stuff.

    The transmission fluid drain plug is on the driver's side and a big ~1" plug bolt. Had to use an adjustable wrench, socket set would not fit but would have made it easier. About 4.5 Quarts of tranny fluid came out. I poured what came out from the drain pan into 2 milk containers to determine the qty that came out and therefore how much needs to be replaced. Refilled with Castrol Multi-Vehicle ATF from AutoZone for $4.50 per Qt. It's a replacement for the Hyundai fluid and was recommended by knowledgeable transmission folks on another Sonata forum. Since the tranny holds at least 9 quarts, I'll do another drain and fill in about 30K miles (have 66K miles now).

    Maint schedule in manual says drain / fill ATF at 105K miles but dealer suggested earlier as a precaution even after he knew I was going to do it myself.
  • cooldesakcooldesak Member Posts: 15
    edited April 2010
    Hi does anyone feel that shifting from P to R feels hard and stiff when the car (2011 Sonata Limited) is parked uphill?

    Please reply.

    Thanks!
  • tmorrow411tmorrow411 Member Posts: 11
    To me every car feels hard to take out of park when on a hill.

    So I always apply the parking brake, put the car in neutral and slowly let off the brake pedal making sure the parking brake is holding the car. Last I put the car into Park.

    When I get back into the car. I press the brake pedal, take the car out of park, and then release the parking brake. With this process I have never had any effort in getting a car out of park when on a hill.

    I was brought up that not using the parking brake will break the parking pin on the transmission. That may not be true, but I figured better safe than sorry.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    I'm the same way....old school stuff. I even change my oil every 3K. LOL :D
  • cooldesakcooldesak Member Posts: 15
    Thanks tmorrow411 for your tips. That's useful. I thought it felt softer using your tips.

    And I havent heard about "not using the parking brake will break the parking pin on the transmission", but you're right, better safe than sorry.
  • chalirebrownchalirebrown Member Posts: 38
    i am making a trip and have to go through airport security-is it safe to let the intelligent key go through the detector wihtout messing it up and also-the 2011 Sonata i just bought says it has six speakers yet I can only find five-two in the front and one in the rear shelf package except that one is covered so could there be two in there? Also, does nayone know where the transmission dispstick is??I couldn;t find it in the book and it doesn't even ,mention it thanks
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    edited April 2010
    REF: 3070
    The new 6-speed Hyundai developed auto transmission is maintenance-free, i.e., no dipstick.

    "For the customer, the new six-speed promises a performance edge. The transaxle will first arrive in the new Hyundai Grandeur/Azera equipped with a 3.3-liter V-6 Lambda engine. In this application, it delivers a 12.2 percent gain in fuel economy (10.1km/l versus 9.0km/l) and is 2.5 percent quicker in zero to 100km/h acceleration times (7.8sec versus 8.0 sec). It also delivers an 11 percent improvement in 60km/h to 100km/h passing performance (4.0 sec versus 4.5 sec).

    The unit also is maintenance-free: The gearbox is not equipped with a dipstick as it is filled with an automatic transmission fluid that is good for the life of the vehicle thereby reducing maintenance costs."

    http://jalopnik.com/5116412/hyundais-new-in+house-six-speed-auto-transmission-hi- ts-azera-first
  • quebec10quebec10 Member Posts: 2
    I'm waiting for my new 2011 Sonata Limited with nav (venetian red exterior with camel interior) expected for the 20th of April. My question for you -- is it possible to see a music video on the nav screen using my iPod Touch or even to see photos from my Sony camera using the USB port?

    Thanks.
  • tommtomm Member Posts: 31
    Has anyone had a 2011 in the snow? Was thinking about Subaru Legacy - but saw a Sonata and...
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    It will most likely be no better or worse than any modern FWD car equipped with traction control (it is able to be switched "OFF"). Subaru = AWD which is always a + in snow. For most people with a lick of common sense a FWD car is sufficient in most conditions. If there is 3 feet of snow wait until the road crews clear the bulk of it. So, I wouldn't worry overly much unless your job absolutely requires you to "be there" regardless of weather.
  • moroccogoatmoroccogoat Member Posts: 23
    For a brand new 2010 Sonata, 87 or 89?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    whatever it says on the inside of your fuel tank cover.
  • jeff_ohiojeff_ohio Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 Hyundia Sonata LX with 74,000 miles on it and my gas mileage runs around 15mpg in city. My wife has the exact same car and averages 22-24 city. I know I drive a little heavy on the foot, but I can not believe it makes that much difference. I recently replaced the plugs and wires and did see an emprovement which took the mileage from 13-14 upto 15-16 mpg, and I am planning on changing gas stations to see if that would help. I have had the car in to check the computer to see if anything would come up to point me in the right direction, but there was nothing out of the normal. The car seems to run smooth and has no problem with pick up, it just is getting low mileage per gallon. I had my wife switch cars for a couple of weeks and only saw a difference of 1-2 miles per gallon in our driving. The fuel filter does not seem to be the problem because I am getting no sluggest responce when I step on the pedal and the car starts fine and runs smooth. Does anyone have an idea on what I could do to get a improvement in my gas mileage?
    Thanks
    Jeff
  • midas69midas69 Member Posts: 118
    Does anyone have an idea on what I could do to get a improvement in my gas mileage?

    Swap cars with your wife for a tank or two and see if it's your driving or the car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It sounds like your driving and I'll tell you why. You say that your wife, when driving your car, gets 1-2 miles more MPG. Okay, so if you were getting 15-16 in the city, that means she could be getting 17-18 in the city, which is exactly what a 2004 Sonata V-6 is supposed to get in city driving.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Member Posts: 1,601
    edited April 2010
    Also, the type of "city driving" can have an effect. Does one route have more stop signs/traffic lights? Does one route have hills or steeper hills than the other?

    My previous car had a trip computer. The higher MPG for an downhill trip did NOT offset the lower MPG for the same trip going uphill. i.e. 3 miles to work, mostly uphill, reduced the average round trip MPG by more than the 3 miles, mostly downhill, return trip. (This involved a reset to go to work and a reset to come home. Then another trip, starting with a reset before starting out and not resetting it until the round trip was completed.)

    The length of your respective trips, even only 1 or 2 miles each way, can also make a difference in your MPG.
  • tisbletisble Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 SE with 71000 miles. when the car is cold, during the first 15 min of driving i get a vibration at 50 mph. after 15 min it goes away. this happens in the morning after the car been sitting all night and after work. When it does happen i have shifted the into neutral and the vibration is still their. any thoughts would be great.... :confuse:
  • sharksoupsharksoup Member Posts: 26
    I posted this previously in the Hyundai Sonata in Snow and Ice

    I live in Northern Maine, where average snowfall in our location exceeds 100" annually, and have been driving in harsh winter conditions for over 20 years.

    Number one thing you can do to improve the way the car handles in to buy 4 good snow tires. I have a set of directional snow tires on my 2009 and have not had any trouble getting around.

    I have found that with Electronic Stability Control and the anti-skid technology found standard on the Sonata, that the car has thus far handled everything thrown at it. I'm able to take corners at faster speed with no loss of control than I can in my wife's older Civic. Got the Sonata after driving a Subaru Forester for 6 years, and it does nearly as well as the Forester.

    I've found that the ESC does a great job of keeping the car "on track" when going up slippery hills.
  • chalirebrownchalirebrown Member Posts: 38
    The interferences from the radar,etc. might be causing this to happen since the sensor sends signals to the computer so maybe that is the reason.Like not letting you use a cell phone in the air-now that has been proven to be nonsense unless you are jack Bauer from 24-
  • coldglcoldgl Member Posts: 15
    The owner's manual speaks to this. My Sonata tire pressure light came after parking at an airport for three days. I put a little air in each tire and the light went out. I suspect airport avionics was the culprit. The owner's manual talks of temperature changes but our Sonata sits in a heated garage and drives out into Maine winters daily and we have never had a tire pressure light go on due to that.
  • chalirebrownchalirebrown Member Posts: 38
    I was told by the dealership that i should have the first oil chnage done at approximately 100 miles, yet the maintenance manual says 3750 under severe conditions, which I don not drive under or 7500 normally. Anyone told this same thing?All the Nissans i ever owned no one recommended this at all. Thanks
  • chalirebrownchalirebrown Member Posts: 38
    I was informed that if you have a flat on the standard tire and it is fixed, the TPS has to be recalibrated BY THE DEALER to make it work again for that car-is this true?
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I will offer opinions on both questions you have asked
    A.) 100 miles is WAY, WAY, WAY (continued 30 more times) too soon to change the oil for the first time. I would follow the owners manual for the recommendations Hyundai puts forth. Personally I would change it at about 4000-5000 miles or so.
    B.) I believe the dealer does need to recalibrate the tire pressure sensor if the tire is disturbed e.g. replacement or repair. Seriously though when was the last time you had a flat? I cannot recall as it has been a very long time (knocks wood!!!)
  • greatlakesjrgreatlakesjr Member Posts: 109
    What is your thought on synthetic vs. regular oil for the changes? I'm up to 1000 miles now on my new Sonata and have a few thousand to go for my first change but trying to think ahead.
  • LASHAWNLASHAWN Member Posts: 303
    There is no real benefit to using synthetic oil, I mean you'll still have to change the oil every 4k-5k miles anyway and they say synthetic is supposed to not break down as quickly as regular oil. I've noticed that synthetic is used or required more in high performance engines like V8's and turbo's. But in the end it's still just a preference some people just like in their cars whether it's a requirement or not.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    edited May 2010
    Well, I'll preface my answer with the disclosure that I use Mobil1 in both of our cars. On the 2006 Civic, which we bought new, I switched to Mobil 1 on the first oil change and never looked back. It has about 29,000 miles at this point so discussions about wear simply don't apply yet....BUT on the second car, a 1995 Dodge Stratus, I switched to Mobil 1 after the car already had about 160,000 miles but in this case I use the blend for cars over 75K miles. The car now has 245,000 miles and looking into the oil fill port on the valve cover I can see some of the valve train (rocker arms etc.) and I will tell you with no uncertainty that these parts are clean, as in "new" clean. This blend cleaned up whatever sludge had started within the engine. The engine is also as quick, quiet, smooth and fuel efficient as when my daughter bought it from the original owner in 1998 (it has been in the family since). I forgot to mention it uses virtually no oil (if you can call a qt. at about 4,000 or more miles a lot) after all these miles. But maybe regular non synthetic oil would have allowed the car to function as well now. I cannot answer that but I do feel synthetic oil gives both my cars an extra edge in protection against sludge, wear, and any abnormal scenario (as in a broken coolent hose and a resultant spike in engine temperature). I also feel better (more secure) about the 7,500 mile oil change interval I've adopted on the Dodge Oh, finally they start easier and oil pressure is established faster during cold (we live in Pa.) winter starts. Suffice it to say I heartily endorse synthetic oils and will continue to use it in future cars.
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    As far as their being "no real benefit to using synthetic oil" I would beg to differ. Most manufacturers have adopted a 7500 mile oil change interval at minimum. In the case of BMW and Honda and GM (at least) there is a maintainance minder that counts down in % the remaining oil life depending on engine and driving conditions and using that computation I have been told change intervals can exceed 10,000 miles. Is this bad?? Synthetic oil has obvious benefits in those extended change intervals in addition to remaining viscious in very low/high ambient temperatures. I suggest you and others who believe synthetics simply cost more for the same protection look at a website such as mobiloil.com for all the reasons you should consider it. I guess there will aways be those who live in the 50's or 60's automotive wise and still believe 3000 mile oil change intervals are needed or required in the 21'st century. I can assure you it is not and is a waste of money and or resources.
  • willfullyarmedwillfullyarmed Member Posts: 2
    Anyone who says there is no benefit to synthetic vs conventional is a space case with zero experience in the field.

    #2 I change oil in new engines for the first time at 500 miles. PERIOD. Definately dont wait til 4-5K for the first one. I always break them in on conventional, then switch to synthetic. Amsoil or Mobil 1.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Dude, I agree with you on the benefits of synthetic but that concept of changing oil after 500 miles when out the window a long time ago. Let me guess, your rationale is to "get rid of the metal filings in the engine". With the manufacturing techniques in the last 15 years, that's hooey. Further, Honda and other companies use a non-detergent based oil as the initial fill. There is a benefit to this but you are draining it out if you do the early change. Leave the initial fill in for the recommended time or at least for 3-4K miles.
  • xmechxmech Member Posts: 90
    Let me guess, your rationale is to "get rid of the metal filings in the engine". With the manufacturing techniques in the last 15 years, that's hooey.

    I build brand new jet engines, and we have to blow the oil passages out every time, because once in a while there are shavings in there. Who do you think make the castings? The lowest bidder...
  • gchecksfieldgchecksfield Member Posts: 36
    I disconnected the lower door handle cable on my 05 Sonata at the end where the cable attaches to the open/close mechanism. When I put it back it has no functionality. The ball on the end is not connecting with anything, allowing the cable to slide back and forth without accomplishing anything. Does anyone know how to reattach this cable correctly? Thanks.
  • chalirebrownchalirebrown Member Posts: 38
    The only manuals available on the Hyundai site are the owner's manuals according to the company. They suggested I contact HELm, which i did and they have not been given the service manual to publish yet. Anyone have any other ideas where to obtain it??????????
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    edited May 2010
    REF: 3097
    If you create an account at http://hmaservice.com/ you will have access to tsb and shop manuals. Not the most user-friendly site but the info is there.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Reposting here for more viability... I have an 06 Sonata that I purchased with 12K miles on it in 07. It now has 73K miles. At about 65K the chain tensioner sound appeared. I did not know all of the details at the time but called dealer 6 months ago, he explained what it was (confirmed by all that I researched as well). Dealer said that being 2nd owner AND that over 60K miles, would not be covered. He said it sounds worse than it really is leading me to believe just let it ride. Would be 6-7 hrs of labor about $900

    Starting to think that may not be smart. Was hoping to keep car till 150K, great car,well maintained. Interested in your thoughts. Worth checking with another dealer?
  • LASHAWNLASHAWN Member Posts: 303
    Labor charge is about right. If want to keep car, recommend have repairs performed if you have the funds or trade car in for something else. Those are basically your only alternatives.
  • tmorrow411tmorrow411 Member Posts: 11
    Yeah, got to be careful about the 10/100,000 mile warranty. It doesn't transfer to future owners.
  • ktpmm5ktpmm5 Member Posts: 3
    We've got a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, a 2007 Sonata, and are about to buy a 2009 Sonata. I can no longer remember what schedule is due when, and want to keep track of it on the computer. I would like to have an Excel spreadsheet, or use one of these online services. Can anyone recommend an online service (I've seen yourGarageonline.com, etc) or have a spreadsheet they are willing to share? I really need something that tells me when I am supposed to get what done.... Thanks
  • tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    Try this and see if it fills your needs...

    https://www.myhyundai.com/
  • coldglcoldgl Member Posts: 15
    The Hyundai owner's web site combined with an owner's manual should be all you need. Their new updated maintenance portion on their web site makes it easy to record completed maintenance and remind you of scheduled maintenance.
  • mits_donmits_don Member Posts: 3
    I just saw your post and I am awaiting my new 2011 Sonata Limited w/Nav.
    Now that you have your car, can you do any of things you asked?

    I'm waiting for my new 2011 Sonata Limited with nav (venetian red exterior with camel interior) expected for the 20th of April. My question for you -- is it possible to see a music video on the nav screen using my iPod Touch or even to see photos from my Sony camera using the USB port?
  • anareeanaree Member Posts: 7
    Hi, I am having the exact same problem now and was wondering if you ever found out waht it was? I have had Hyundai working on my car for 2 months and can not find out whats wrong. I have had a new fuel pump,2 fuel injectors and a air idle control put in and still no luck, plus the engine light keeps comming on and they tell me the parts put in are the codes it is throwing?????? :mad: :mad: :mad: Come on now!!!!!
    so please I know you had this problem last year and would really appreciate any help you can give me!!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Do you have the code #s? The problem might be that someone who is working on your car thinks that the code tells you which part to replace---it's not that simple. The codes only indicate the system or circuit that is in distress. They may be replacing the symptom but not installing the cure, in other words.
  • anareeanaree Member Posts: 7
    Thank you so much for answering me, Yes the code seems to be p0301 and I only know that cuz a friend of mine has the machine to read it and it says a misfire in cylinder 1. the car drives great, its the starting I have a problem with and now, seems to idle rough a bit since hyundai has worked on it. They say they have no clue, since they have checked everything(so they say). Now they say it might be electrical and thats big bucks!!!! I just dont understand it, they put in an air idles control, fuel pump and #2&5 injectors and now a coil in #1. and tell me that this is what the codes are reading?????Please any help is greatly aprreciated!!!! :blush:
  • jj_worthyjj_worthy Member Posts: 1
    Mike, (or anyone else)

    Have you continued to have this problem?

    We took the first bad fuel pump to a shop. The second time (a year a week after) I refused to pay $650 again. I ebayed a used part ($60) and picked up the Haynes manual. I found it's pretty easy to change out (there's a hatch in the trunk and it slides out nicely). I popped open the housing and found my wire all burnt up too.

    This morning the fuel pump failed on the way home. I'm almost certain I'm going to find that same wire toasted again. The tow truck guy (who also runs a shop) recommended swapping the fuel pump fuse with a lower one and never letting the fuel get too low (come to think of it I happened to be low on fuel each time) because the fuel keeps the pump cool.
    That and the airbag lights (which I'll have to try your solution) are the only issues I've had as well.
    The fuel pump is getting ridiculous, especially since it seems like there is no one else online with the same problem.

    Jon
  • yochanan4yochanan4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Hyudai sonata 4 cyl 2.4L engine with 126,000 miles on it. I tried to start it and nothing happened, I've just replaced the altenator and battery. I moved the gear shift in and out of Park thinking that the transmission was not in park all the way and still nothing, tried jump the car battery and still nothing, did the same thing with the transmission during this process. After about 5 min the car started but then the check engine light came on, had it checked out and the code was P0335, Crankshaft position sensor. Outside the where there code was checked the car did the same thing it just didn't take that long, it started up after one turn off of the ignition. Would that sensor cause my car not to start or could there be another issue?
  • tomw6tomw6 Member Posts: 10
    I've a 2009 Sonata V6, 11,000 km. In Drive, when revs drop to 1200 or so, light gas pedal pressure causes car to miss, cough, snort. Increasing revs to 1500 or 1600 ends problem. The car is always in 5th when problem happens. If I shift down to 4th, manually or by applying gas firmly (not always possible when you're in traffic), revs increase of course, and problem disappears. Has anyone else had this problem? Know its cause? Know what to do about it? I've had car into dealer 4 times with no success.
  • jlindhjlindh Member Posts: 282
    If this is happening around 40 mph you might want to do a search on previous torque converter postings.
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