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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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  • crankeeecrankeee Member Posts: 298
    Never heard of that problem before. Was the car ever in an accident? Sounds like the filler tube is constricted. Dealer going after the canister, valve and gas tank seems like a good idea. If the overflow is kinked or blocked would that cause a vaccuum block also?
  • LASHAWNLASHAWN Member Posts: 303
    Did they check to make sure the fuel neck was free of blockage? That's pretty much the only thing left that I would think is causing the problem.
  • federale46federale46 Member Posts: 4
    The dealer was informed by the Hyundai technical support people of a check valve that they were unaware of. Once the check valve was replaced, they were able to fuel the car without difficulty. Unfortunately, the fuel level sensor in the gas tank was damaged through all this work, and it won't be fixed until tomorrow afternoon. I will be so happy to get my car back. I wonder if this fueling problem is general, or is confined to Hyundais. Thank you for your input. :)
  • LASHAWNLASHAWN Member Posts: 303
    Glad to hear they've got the problem corrected.
  • federale46federale46 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks! I picked up my car today and I was happy to have it back.
  • charlie2004charlie2004 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2004 Sonata GLS 2 days ago. The air vent controls were working/changing properly. As of yesterday, the air blows only through the top vents onto the windshield (with or without the AC on). I push the buttons to change air flow to dash or floor vents, the lights light up on the buttons but the air flow does not change?
  • pekelopdpekelopd Member Posts: 139
    perhaps some connections came loose. I know on one of my previous older cars, vaccuum tubes came into play. On more modern cars, it might be a bad switch or some other connection, possibly electrical. Feel brave enough to take apart the center console?
  • masipalmmasipalm Member Posts: 3
    I have a Hyundai Sonata model 2003 and the drivers door is stuck, won´t open from the inside or the outside, and to repair it i think i have to remove the inner door panel which seems impossible to remove when you can´t open the door, its design i think to take it of while the door are open.. :S any suggestion how to do this ?
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    I don't know that I can offer any real help, but I would like to know exactly how the door is stuck. Is it stuck closed because the handle mechanism has failed? Or is it literally "stuck"; i.e. parts are rusted shut/the rubber trim won't release, etc.?

    If the handle/lock mechanism is broken, then you could also try a "manual open" by essentially breaking in to the car using a slim jim or other tool that a locksmith (or car thief) would use to unlock a car from the outside.

    From the inside, you might be able to remove the arm rest or other parts of the door panel. It depends on the car and I'm not sure about Sonatas of that vintage, but on some (generally older) cars the arm rest was a separate piece and would be removed to expose one or more of the screws that held the door panel in place. The rest of the screws/clips are probably along the bottom of the panel; that's where they've been in my limited experience. To access those, you do need to get the door open.

    If the arm rest isn't removable there may be other panel pieces that unscrew/can be pried off (like a plastic insert) to expose the panel screws. Of course, if they're also using screws along the bottom it might not really help a lot.

    You might also check with local junk yards to see if a replacement panel is readily available. If so, and the price is cheap, you can attack your current panel & rip it to shreds to gain access.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • masipalmmasipalm Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply, I can lock and unlock the car with the key, but when i try to open using the door handle on the inside or the outside, i can feel there is no resistance, like some wires or cables have disconnect that controls the locking mechanism. The door panel is in one piece :( I have thought about it to attack the panel and rip it to shreds :) Thanks for a quick answer :) dose someone here know about any repair manual for sonata online for free ? :P
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    https://www.hyundaitechinfo.com/ is Hyundai's official site (it used to be hmaservice.com). They do offer free manuals for some of their cars so you can see if they have yours.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • masipalmmasipalm Member Posts: 3
    Thanks :)
  • hyundaiguy4hyundaiguy4 Member Posts: 9
    Yes, I have had all kinds of trouble with my blue link half the time you go to hit the button to use it and it dosent work ( NO RESPONCE ANY OF THE BUTTONS) I found that if you send the ca a signal it statrs working again.
    now since the last time it went out the air bag light wont turn off. have an appointment to take it in for service next week. the car only has 5000 miles on it with no accidents I hope this isnt on going
  • prendyprendy Member Posts: 18
    DEALER FINALLY FOUND PROBLEM WITH THIS LIGHT,HAD A BAD SMALL WIRING HARNESS,REEPLACED IT AND PROBLEM WAS SOLVED,HAS BEEN ALRIGHT NOW FOR 7 MNTHS.
  • prendyprendy Member Posts: 18
    A
  • prendyprendy Member Posts: 18
    HAVING PROBLEM WITH RESETTING CHANGE OIL LIGHT,JUST HAD A OIL CHANGE 1 WEEK AGO,TRIED TO RESET ALARM LIGHT ,MANY TIMES,DOESN'T WORK,STILL COMES ON WHEN WE RESTART THE JOURNEY,ANYONE HAVE A ANSWER FOR THIS,OR HAD THE PROBLEM THEMSELVES,ONLY HAS 38000 MILES ON IT,WONDER DO THESE SWITCHES GO BAD???
  • jamesw71jamesw71 Member Posts: 1
    The crankshaft sensor sits right next to the crankshaft belt. When your belt gets loose it chafes on the wire for the sensor which is what causes these intermittent problems. It may be fine one day, bad the next, sometimes the car will even stop running. I used to be an aircraft mechanic, i work in a chemical plant now and these are common issues with wiring and could be fixed if they ever decided to do a recall and reroute the wiring for the sensor.

    I had this problem for about 5 years on my 2003 sonota I bought in 2004. I finally gave the car away because I was sick of messing with the sensor every 2 years or so...which seemed to be the timeline for the wiring to get worn down again.

    I replaced and adjusted the belt several times but it sits too close to the wiring and the minute it moves it flexes and wears the wire down...it's only a matter of time before it happens again.

    My stepson originally wrecked the car the first year I had it and I thought it was a wiring problem associated with the wreck and the insurance paid to have it fixed the first couple times...then they considered it a maintenance problem and wouldn't pay anymore. so I got rid of it.
  • codedatcodedat Member Posts: 1
    I have experienced the same problem. The problem with the door is that a small spring inside the door is broken on the latch which combines the inside and outside door handle to open the door latch. The way to open the door is to use a slip (jimmy, slim jim, etc) and hook the unit and push down the lever where the spring connects. At the same time pull the door open. Replace the spring ( I believe it's a compression spring with a tail on one end and a loop on the other). Make sure the spring you get is strong enough 3-5 lbs pull. Use some grease so it doesn't rust as fast. Then enjoy your working door.
  • llamaniallamania Member Posts: 25
    edited October 2012
    Thought it might be helpful for some.
    Have a 2006 Sonata GLS 2.4L. One year into owning it,
    I've heard a very annoying rattle from behind when I's driving over bumps.
    Sent it to dealer one time and they said they fixed it by padding some
    tape etc. But after a while it came back. Recently, my wife's driving,
    I sit on back seat and listened carefully - finally nailed it. It sounded like
    from c-pillar or trunk if you sit in the driver's seat. But actually it's from
    the roof - headliners. Then I took apart of the driver side B-pillar trim and opened
    up the headliners nearby - saw a segment of double-threaded wires hanging
    there, with loose glue - the glue supposed to attach the wires on the headliners
    under it but got broken. The loose wires obviously at bumps of road will vibrate
    to a rattle. So, it's fixed:) Saved me the trouble and maybe cost of service at a
    dealer.
  • rijosrobertorijosroberto Member Posts: 1
    HELLO HOPE ALL IS WELL I WAS WONDERING DID YOU FIND A SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEM . I LIVE IN WESTCHESTER NY , AND ON SATURDAY I WAS DRIVING TO THE BRONX WHEN IT STARTED DOING THE SAME THINGS YOUR DID AND ITS TELLING ME ITS A TRANSMISSION SOLENOID PROBLEM I TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC AND HE TOLD ME I MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE THE TRANSMISSION BECOUSE IF HE FIXES THE SOLENOIDS AND THEY GO BAD AGAIN OR IF THE PROBLEM SPREAD TO THE TRANSMISSION AND MADE IT WORSER ITS GOING TO COST MORE IN TOTAL WORK I FOUND A TRANSMISSION WITH 97 MILES ON IT FROM STATEN ISLAND I HAVENT PICKED IT UP YET BUT AND THE MECHANIC WILL CHARGE ME 400 TO INSTALL IT BUT I WONDER IF THERE IS AN EASIER SOLOTUION TO IT ,
  • bc6bc6 Member Posts: 4
    Hello,
    I changed the tranny fluid and filter and it's been ok since.
    Good luck.
  • just_focusjust_focus Member Posts: 53

    Ok so I call my Hyundai dealer today and was going to schedule an oil change. They asked me how many miles I had on my 2012 Sonata limited and I said 36,000 miles. Then he looks my car up on the computer and said that I need the 30,000 mile service package that includes replacing antifreeze, transmission fluid and new spark plugs. They only want $450.00 for this service. Since when does a new car need new plugs at 30,000 miles? Now that the bumper to bumper warranty is over I am taking it to my impendent service center. he is expensive but honest.

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