Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

jdepung · September 2002

Just wanted to let you know, 'Third times the charm'. I finally got my car back from the dealer on a saturday. I was able to drive it home and go a couple of places. Once again, I went to the grocery store. My mistake. It was dead from the moment I turned it off. Got the tow truck out there. It started. I could have SCREAMED!!! So I drove it home. When I got there, it was dead again. Called for the tow truck again. This time it was still dead. Yaaaeh!! It went back to the dealer that replaced the starter. By the next evening it was fixed, for good this time. Seems the wires in the fuse box were loose and / or not connected. What a mess. But once again, I am happy to be a hyundai owner.
I better be, 'cause the resale value on these puppies suck!
Thanks for the imput.

kingrw · September 2002

Have a 2000 Sonata GLS with 46,000 miles. Started it up this morning and it began running very rough. When I take it on the road I hear some small backfires. Soon thereafter, the Service Engine light comes on. I've checked out all the basics. Just wondering if anybody else has experienced a simlar problem and/or if you have any suggestions.

jimbeaumi · September 2002

The only suggestion that matters: go to the dealer.

vmaxie2 · October 2002

To Kingrw. I'm having the same pblm with my 99 Sonata. Running rough and little backfires. No check engine light yet. What was the outcome with yours? Thxs

mike_johns2000 · November 2002

I have 2002 Sonata that has a really annoying rattle in the front end. When the dealer was unable to find it, they had the factory rep come to the dealership to tell me that they would not fix it because all of the 2002 Sonatas have this rattle. I would like to hear from other owners to see if they have the same problem. I tried to tell the factory rep that if my 95 dodge doesn't rattle, on certain roads, my new Hyundai that costs 10,000 more than the Dodge did should not have the rattle. I am not impressed at this time with their response. Even though I like the car otherwise, I will tell everyone that I can that they should not buy one if the factory will not honor its warranty.

flamethrower · December 2002

I have a 2002 Sonata that has had squeaking brakes ever since about 4000 miles. I have 13000 now. The dealer said this is "normal". And, that nothing was wrong with the brakes. The brakes on a 2002 Sonata are made of different material than in the past that would cause the squeaking. The squeaking is VERY loud. There is nothing constant, such as weather, temperature or condensation in the air that makes it worst or better. It just comes and goes. VERY irritating for a new car! I am looking for a car that doesn't squeak (not a Hyundai, though).

zonie24601 · December 2002

Hi all, My wife and I have a ruby red LX that's pushing 9k miles -- love it so far! No rattles in front end, everything seems to work fine inside. Tranny is smooth. Mid-20s mpg on the highway and at least high teens in town. I do get the rattle on the pass. seat belt when it gets flipped around, but that's it. I have noticed a one thing though -- there is an intermittent clicking sound when we start the car - maybe happens once per 10 starts at the most (at this point) ... it's the same kind of clicking you might hear if your battery were totally dead, but the engine is turning over at regular speed when we hear the noise. There's no problem starting it at all, just get this noise occassionally. Anyone with similar? Thanks for any help/ideas.

rovingopa · December 2002

I have a 2001 Sonota GLS, just bought it at 10000 plus miles it looks as if it came off the dealers show room , I have only one problem, which is probily solved by dealer,but here it goes all my door locks with one key,same to open except the passenger side will not open from the outside,I need to reach over from inside of the car to open, has anyone had this problem .

dougndo · January 2003

My 2001 GLS Leather has nearly 20,000 on it now. The locks work as they should on all doors. I got an aftermarket security/keyless entry system installed (free) as part of the deal. Everything works well.

Assuming you're talking about the front passenger side door, it sounds like you've got a dealer repair item. If it's the rear passenger side door, could the lever for the childproof lock be positioned in an intermediate position?

rovingopa · January 2003

I did mean the front passenger side,its some what puzzling considering that the inside door handle does trip the open position but not outside.I bought the car from private party, and must see my rights to warranties from Hyundai, before I go to a dealer.(or out of my pocket)thanks.

mike_johns2000 · January 2003

I am familiar with the dealership using the "they all do it" explanation as to why they can't fix a problem. I am going to make sure that Hyundai knows who I am and how displeased I am. In that vain, if you would like another owner to sign an afadavid saying that my brakes on my 2002 Sonata down squeal, I will be more than happy to. They need to take responsibility for their cars.

jk27 · January 2003

"I am going to make sure that Hyundai knows who I am and how displeased I am."

Take it easy ... and walk away from the Hyundai dealership ... maybe you should just take it to a different Hyundai dealer? Squeaky brakes happen to many cars and can (usually) be easily remedied.

acelink · January 2003

The car is '99 Sonata with ABS. How hard is it to replace the front brake pades? If you know the websites with easy-to-follow instructions and pictures, please let me know.

I already got myself OEM brake pads (about $24)and a Wurth ABS brake pad spray. Any last minute advices before I actually do it?

ray_h71 · January 2003

"acelink", if you HAVE replaced disk brake pads on any previous car, you shouldn't have any problems figuring out what to do on your Sonata. The procedures are far more alike than different regardless of make. However, if you've never replaced pads yourself, it might be better to either have a trusted friend help you or have a shop put the set you bought on for you and WATCH what the tech does. (If a shop tech doesn't want you around, take your business elsewhere until you find a cooperative tech - it's YOUR car after all.) While not difficult, this might not be something that should be attempted first time, cold, based just on a how-to web link. After all, you're betting your life...

Now to my "problem". I have a 2003 Sonata, V-6, bought new, and with ~1,700 miles on it so far. The transmission 2-3 upshift flare problems I've read about on this forum in earier posts are opposite to what I'm experiencing. For the first 2-3 shift after a cold startup, my shift from second gear "slams" into third gear quite abruptly. (Honda-like*) Funny thing is that at the next acceleration from a complete stop, the 2-3 shift is very smooth and remains so thereafter, as do all other upshifts. Only the first time from a dead-cold start. I realize I have 100,000 miles or ten years to deal with this if it becomes more objectionable, but I am curious if anyone else has experienced this oddity.

*An earlier post referenced Honda automatic transmissions as having abrupt shift characteristics. I found this to be true of my 96 Accord. Consumer Guide mentioned it too, and recommended a product called "Lubegard ATF Supplement". A flush and refill at 20,000 miles with DEXRON-III and one bottle of Lubegard Black definitely tamed my Honda automatic's shift quality. A Honda dealer's service writer told me subsequently that Honda of America now recommends using Lubegard for customer complaints of harsh shifting. The stuff's has been a bit difficult to come by for consumers since Lubegard primarily serves the transmission rebuild trade. But, recently they have begun supplying their products through NAPA stores, though. The stuff comes in 10 oz. bottles. There are four ATF products - Lubegard "Red" (named for the bottle color) for general use in cars in which the car manufacturer's recommended fluid is used ($10.95). Lubegard makes three specialty ATF supplements to be used with DEXRON fluids to convert them to the OEM specified characteristics at time of rebuild or flush and refill: Lubegard "Black" for Hondas and many imports (including Hyundai) requiring a "highly friction modified fluid" ($14.95); Lubegard "Green" for certain recent Ford automatic transmissions that require a "Mercon V" fluid (again, $14.95); and Lubegard "Platinum" which is apparantly a universal product for ANY specialty application ($17.95). THAT'S why the trannie rebuilders love these specialty ATF supplements - they only have to stock good ol' cheap and plentiful DEXRON fluid in bulk. I suspect as production of Lubegard Platinum ramps up, the company will eventually discontinue "Black" and "Green". For more info about Lubegard, just set your browser's search engine to "lubegard". VERY interesting reading, especially the part about the history of automatic transmission failures subsequent to the ban on processed sperm whale oil in the early eighties. Refined sperm whale oil was used in ridiculously low concentration in all ATF prior to that. (And no, I'm NOT a shill for Lubegard. I -was- skeptical but went ahead and bought one bottle and it turned out to be a problem solver.)

killerk · January 2003

Ray_h71, I have a Q on that Lubegard.

My brother has a 97 Elantra which has been to the shop twice for transmission problems.
So all I need to do is get a bottle of Lubegard Black and just add it to the transmission oil?

I did the internet search on Lubegard but couldnt find the reading you were referring to.
It just brought up a lot of companies URL. Can you post the URL if you can? Thx.

chollie · January 2003

Well it's below freezing here for the past few days so in order to solve this problem I just use the manu-matic to shift until the tranny warms up.

bloodclot · January 2003

I have a 2003 Sonata GLS with 633 trouble free miles on it and when its cold the trans takes a while to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear the first time. It doesn't "slam" into 3rd, though it is more noticeable than usual, it simply does not shift "when" it normally does, but once it does make that first shift, all subsequent shifts, from 2nd to 3rd, are normal.

When I take the car in for its first oil change, I will ask about it.

ray_h71 · January 2003

"...So all I need to do is get a bottle of Lubegard Black and just add it to the transmission oil?..."

It should be used in the ratio of 1 oz. to each QUART of tranny fluid. So, one 10 oz. bottle treats a transmission with a 10 quart capacity. Measure carefully with this stuff. Too much by any significant degree would eventually require a complete flush and refill as it permeates the clutch facings. (Expect up to 1,000 miles before the full effect is felt.) As always, do not overfill your transmission. The resulting churning and foaming could cause serious transmission damage.

"...I did the internet search on Lubegard but couldnt find the reading you were referring to.
It just brought up a lot of companies URL. Can you post the URL if you can? Thx."

http://www.lubegard.com You're welcome!

-Ray

ray_h71 · January 2003

"chollie" and "bloodclot", your experience pretty much mirrors my own. I haven't added anything to my tranny yet. I figure I'll take care of it at the first fluid change. It appears, though, that the delayed and abrupt 2-3 shift when cold is just a quirk of this design. As you both indicated, the shift quality is quite smooth once past the initial accelration and when warmed up. By the way, do NOT add Lubegard Black to Hyundai automatic transmission fluid - it's already a highly friction modified fluid. If you'll be adding to factory fluid, use Lubegard Red. Use "Black" only with Dexron III to bring it up to the frictional properties of Genuine Hyundai ATF, Chrysler ATF +3, Mitsubishi Diamond SP III, etc. Lubegard's real value is in stabilizing the fluid and rejecting heat effects - oxidation, varnishing, sticky valves, etc.

By the way, does anyone know how to remove the vertical tranny valve body pan on these Hyundai ATFs without removing the entire front end first? There sure doesn't appear to be much working room in this area.

ray_h71 · January 2003

sonata01,

You might request that the dealer run an alternator output test since it does seem you lost your OEM battery sooner than you feel was approriate. Is the situation worse, better, or the same with the new battery? The rear window defroster pulls a LOT of amps initially, so a momentary dimming of lights may be normal. There's nothing I can think of specifically about the windshield defroster other than it's part of the HVAC system. If the fan speed is set to "High", that would pull some amps, and, most windshield defroster settings default to cycling the AC compressor on to avoid blowing moist air on the cold windshield. Maybe those two factors conspire to draw down available "juice" for other electical consumption initially. As for the battery's seemingly premature failure, you didn't indicate what your climatic conditions are. This year winter has shaped up to be fairly severe except for southern California's delightful warmth (Never mind that southern California's sun worhipping majority will probably be facing mandatory water rationing come July or August unless we get some rain...).

Severe weather could tax a battery - cold winter starting or heavy summer AC use for instance. (By the way, what winter weight motor oil do you use? Something like 20W-50 is a battery killer in cold weather. Not great for the engine, either, in those conditions.) OEM batteries are reasonably good, but rarely have the capacity of the best replacement batteries. My 2003 Sonata battery -looks- for all the world like a Delco, but doesn't have the green sight-glass to indicate normal charge level by specific gravity. It's branded, "DELKOR". (DELco KORea?) I've always figured if I get 2 years out of an OEM battery, I'm doing well. Some have gone considerably less. One (A Delco in my previous 1996 Honda Accord) went over three years before it pooped. Go figure.

-Ray Haeffele

stratus78 · January 2003

Hey Mike,

I noticed a faint brake squeal on my 2002 GLS V6 but it was only once. It seems to have stopped now. Anyway in response to your rattling sound post, a rattling sound that seemed to come from the front passenger side was driving me nuts (the sound never used to come when the front passenger seat was occupied- only when empty did the sound come). I checked the sunroof, passenger seat , dash and so on, until one fine day I noticed the source of the problem. The seat belt buckle for that side, when not engaged by a passenger, was hitting against the side wall whenever I hit a bump giving rise to the annoying sound. I fixed it by adjusting the position of the buckle.

Also another hollow sound that comes from the front left wheel well when I go over bumps, but this looks more like a design issue rather than a malfunction

ray_h71 · January 2003

stratus, you didn't mention how many miles you have on your car or whether the front pads have ever been replaced. If you are still running the original pads and you're approaching or over 30,000 miles (50,000 km?), the audible wear indicator may be telling you it's time to have new pads installed. A soft squeal on light brake application is often the initial symptom. It can graduate to a constant squeal as further wear takes place.

sonata01 · January 2003

Ray Haeffele
Thanks for the response. The problem is the same with the new battery. I would like to blame it on the weather, but, unfortunately I've had this problem since I owned the car. They ran an "electrically system" check, but "no" problem.
I am, however, going to get a new alternator, which is one of the things you had mentioned. After talking with a Regional Service Rep, he mentioned that the OE alternators are not performing as well as they had expected. Hopefully this will solve my problem. Haven't received it to date. I will let you know. Car didn't start - Using 10-30; the dealer changed my oil and used 5-30 and I wont go into that conversation - long story. Thanks, Tom

dln03 · January 2003

I have an '01 Sonata (4 cyl)with the same transmission problem (clumsy shifts) that everyone has. Hyundai transmissions have a terrible reputation (well deserved). I've had a couple of other minor problems. Air Bag light won't go out, and the courtesy lights don't come on when the driver's door opens. Anyone else with similar problems? Other than that, it's a pretty good car and a good value.

ray_h71 · January 2003

dln03 you may be right about Hyundai trannies - I really don't know. Is there any particular Hyundai automatic at issue? Sonata is currently only available with the 4-speed if an automatic transmission is ordered. Anyone have any reliability data, even if only anecdotal, about the 5-speed automatic transmission used in the XG-300 and XG-350? I can assure you, however, that automatic transmissions, foreign and domestic, alike, have had a VERY tough time ever since sperm whale oil was banned. Chrysler went through some very bad times with their FWD automatics. Their current "ATF +4" fluid seems to be working well. Ford had similar trouble and now specifies "Mercon V" for most Ford ATs - even as far back as the early '90s. Hondas REALLY have had trouble for the last 7 or 8 years, and they, too have a proprietary fluid they all but demand owners use, "Honda Genuine ATF-Z1". (Check out the Edmunds Honda forum for an eyefull about Honda automatics. Hopefully Honda's new 5-speed will put all that behind the company.) Toyota and Nissan likewise are on the proprietary fluid wagon, too, to combat heat and excessive wear. It's not just greed - plain vanilla Dexron-III just isn't enough anymore on these smaller designs that run hotter, though it seems quite adequate for GM products. (GM went through their own problems in the mid-to-late 70s. "60 Minutes" even had a segment on GM's troublesome 200 series 3-speed Turbo-Hydromatics at the time.

sonata01 · February 2003

ray_h71 For Information: I have received a new alternator for my 2001 Sonata GLS V-6. It has improved the light dimming problem significantly, but did not totally eliminate it. We'll see what happens. Also, for those of you who may be experiencing the same problem, the service manager showed me a tech bulletin they received recently that states that "1999-2003 Sonatas exhibit a very brief, slight dimming of the headlamps for only a few seconds immediately after the (1) A/C compressor clutch is activated (2) rear defroster is turned on (3) the HVAC fan it turned on High and (4) any other large electricaly load is encountered.....
this condition is normal and does not reflect any malfunction of the electrical system?????

ray_h71 · February 2003

sonata01, you just jogged my memory! I had exactly that symptom on my previous car, a 1996 Honda Accord. And, it happened on just the high current load conditions you listed. The Honda dealer's service advisor told me not to worry about it - that there were several solid state voltage regulators in the dash wiring to minimize voltage drop, but that a sudden heavy current draw could ovewhelm them briefly until they could "catch up". I eventually got used to the momentary dimming to the point I stopped noticing it, and maybe I'm still sufficiently desensitized that I just haven't noticed it in my 2003 Sonata. It never caused any problems in my Honda. I'll check for it on my Sonata over the next several days. One thing YOU might try, though, is double check the battery connections. It's possible they're not quite as tight as they should be...

nyhyundaiuser · March 2003

After having My Sonata exactly 1 year and 5500 easy miles, I moved the never used tilt steering, the wheel would not lock. I did not use my roadsid asst. and drove the car directly to the dealer. The service dept. had the car 32 hours I was denied a loaner car or rental. The salesman (who is no longer with the dealer) assured me when I bought the car this wouldn't happen. I can not find anything in writing that deals with replacement cars.Does anyone have Info to share?

rovingopa · March 2003

Finally had a chance to go to a local dealer for recalls and most important the one door lock,I was some what intimidated being a second owner,but to my surprise I met a honest service Rep.He explained that 95% of the time the door lock has been tamper with a slim jack,which unlocks the door and at the same time unhooks the mechanism which makes the out side handle in operate,which means No Warranty,To my surprise that very afternoon. All work completed NO CHARGE.

spaza · March 2003

i just had my 98 sonata, with 67,000miles on it, in for an oil change. the mechanics pointed out that my rack and pinion joint had slipped. the rubber boot has slid down 3 or 4 inches. after the winter we just had in buffalo ny the salt has gotten into the loosened external seal and corroded the seal internally. the internal seal is now leaking my power steering fliud which is dripping from the bottom of the car now. in order for this to be repaired ive initially been told that they will have to drop the exhaust, replace this whole unit,and follow up with an alignment, a 4 hr. min. job. if any one has suggestions on how to repair this, or if you've gone through this before please let me know.

jmaddox112974 · April 2003

After shopping for several vehicles, I settled on a 1999 Hyundai Sonata GLS with all the extras. It has 66000 miles on it and has a couple of "minor" problems that I'm wondering if I need to worry about

1. Airbag light is lit up and won't go off when all of the others do...Is this something I need to get checked out?

2. When I unlock the passenger's side door with the key, all doors unlock. When I use the drivers side door, it will sometimes stick, and will only open the drivers side. Is this a problem, or is it standard?

Thanks!

lmp180psu · April 2003

To respond to question #2, I (my dad) have a 97 Sonata, and all the doors unlock when using the key on the passenger AND driver side. Unless, Hyundai changed the design after '98 , the drivers side should unlock all doors at the same time. You should have this checked out, along with the airbag light, by a dealer, or trusted mechanic. Hope this helps at all.

drimple · April 2003

I have a 2000 Sonata GLS and if you use the key on the driver's side it only unlocks the driver's door.

ray_h71 · April 2003

My 2003 Sonata's key in the driver's door locks/unlocks all four doors.* My 96 Accord's key in the driver's door unlocked only that door -unless- I held it in the unlock position a few extra seconds; -then- the other three doors unlocked. I never decided whether I liked that delayed reaction feature or not.

*Although it's a moot point now that I'm accustomed to the keyless entry/alarm fob.

ippysan · April 2003

Last summer the ac/heater fan in my '97 Sonata did not always come on, especially on the hottest days. Sometimes it would not work for a few minutes and sometimes for a few hours. I had the system checked by the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong, naturally I could never get it to the dealer when the fan wasn't working. Has anyone had a similar experience? Anyone have any ideas as to what it might be? Since I have an appointment for next Monday to change the timing belt and W/P I have an opportunity to ask them to check it again. Thanks for any and all help. Jim Ippolito

sonata01 · June 2003

Zonie24601,
I noticed the same clicking sound that you experienced; it may happen a little more often than yours did. Have you had any more problems with this? I've tried explaining to the technician, but you know how that goes. I may have to just sit there and start and stop the car until they hear it. I was just curious if anything was diagnosed and/or do you still have the problem.
Thanks, Sonata01

risa4135 · June 2003

We have a 2002 Sonata which we love except for one problem: We have to be practically standing on top of our vehicle for the remotes to work.Opening the doors isn't as bad although we have to be within probably 10 feet of the car but trying to open the trunk is very frustrating. We have to try sometimes 5 or 6 times while holding the remote 5 or 6 inches away from the trunk to get it to open. The dealer has replaced the hand remotes but they tell this is normal operation which I can't believe. Does anyone else have this problem or have any solutions?

Thanks!

sonata1 · June 2003

Hello Everyone.
I currently have a 2003 2.7 liter V-6 Sonata LX. I put in a K&N air filter as a replacement for the stock air filter and the difference in gas mileage is that on the highway I get 33mpg which is 6 mpg more then advertised. However in the city my mileage has royally sucked and varies from 15 to 17.7. In short, with the filter: highway good gains but city, either the same or worse. I am wondering if anyone else has done this and what their experience has been.
The second question is regarding strut bar for the sonata. I would like to know if anyone did this, if it helped the car's handling ability at all, and if so in what way. Reason I am asking is because I've been getting conflicting answers about strut bars. Some tuners are telling me "it makes no real difference in stabalizing the car in turns and reducing body roll" to "it makes a world of difference". I realize underbody sway bars are the mods that really have a guaranteed impact but that also costs significantly more then the strut bar.
Thank You

jimpimms · July 2003

My '01 Elantra GT's keyless entry system can be activated from at least 50 feet away, whereas my wife's Sonata's system has a lot less range. My advice re the trunk problem, which we also have experienced, is to press and hold the trunk unlock button no more than a foot away. It seems to take a second or two for it to activate the lock, but it's less frustrating than continually pushing the button.

ray_h71 · July 2003

Risa and Jimpimm, have you tried replacing the transmitter's lithium battery? I just went out and checked my own 2003 Sonata's activation range. 30 feet seems to be about the maximum range I get for consistent door locking and unlocking. Ditto for activating the trunk release. Jimpimms is right - you have to engage the trunk release button for about a second to achieve release - and then it only activates upon releasing the button. (May be intentionally programmed that way for security so owners don't inadvertantly release the trunk...)

sonataowner · July 2003

I'm having the dimming problem also (on an '02 Sonata GLS V6), but not just with the lights. The A/C fan, interior lights and radio all dim occasionally when the car is idling, but improve when I accelerate. The car also refused to start on one occasion (until the tow truck arrived, when the car started without problem).

Dealer found nothing wrong with the car. The problem appeared again today. Have people met resistance getting dealers to replace the alternator? Any other potential solutions?

ray_h71 · July 2003

Under a heavy electical load*, the symptoms you describe may be normal to some degree. but, to be safe, check the battery ground connections to the frame and engine (And at the battery, check both the ground and positive connections, too.). Also check the positve connection to the starter motor. If these are not TIGHT, you may get more of the symptoms you described. If your car is operated mainly in city driving, your battery might not be at its fullest charge, either.

*Lights and AC simultaneously at idle put a heavy load on the battery until acceleration allows the alternator to kick in with higher current delivery.

zonie24601 · July 2003

I have an 02 Sonata. Last Thursday, after a day of running errands around town, it suddently wouldn't crank. I cleaned the battery terminal, a *little* corrosion, and let it sit for an hour -- then it started on its own. I drove it into town with A/C, radio and headlights on -- no problem. Had AutoZone check the charging system -- came up a bad battery and a bad diode on the alternator. I called Hyundai America and they authorized me to replace the battery. Car ran fine, but the alternator still showed bad diode on their test. My wife then drove the car to San Antonio (10 hours). She took the car to the Hyundai dealership there to have them replace the bad alternator -- Hyundai said the alt was fine. She went to AutoZone, Checker and NAPA (or Pep Boys, can't remember) and had charging system checked ... they **ALL** said the alternator was bad. She brought it to the Hyundai dealership in Las Cruces (an hour drive each way from where we live) today ... they said the alternator is fine.
Granted the alternator *IS* charging and all ... but why the discrepancy? Also, we've had the batter replaced TWICE before this last weekend... So yeah, I'm having a little trouble getting Hyundai to replace the alternator. But as far as dimming lights, I've never noticed that...

ray_h71 · July 2003

Bizarre, alright. You've got a 95 amp alternator regardless which engine your car's equipped with. The batteries supplied with the I4 engine are rated at 60 amp-hours, and 68 amp-hours with the V6 ingine. In short your car's equipped with the proper equipment to handle the electrical load of desert southwest heat and the expected heavy A/C use. But, you're on your 3rd battery in less than two years? Bellyache to Hyundai America again. It should have occurred to someone by now that your batteries are prematurely failing for a reason. But, maybe you'll have to present the idiots with another premature battery failure... I personally damaged a Toyota alternator with a jump-start mis-cabling. The alternator still "put out" sufficiently that the "Charge" light in the instrument cluster didn't light up. But within two weeks the engine failed to start. Two diodes were blown. The other four were allowing reduced charging.

ewis77 · July 2003

See my response to #518 in the Hyundai/Santa Fe thread. It gives you the answer if your cables are clean.

ewis77 · July 2003

Both of my front windows have done this and they havent replaced anything yet. They say the regulators are fine, but they sure make alot of noise so I am going to another dealership now.

nuclearian1 · July 2003

What has started as a PERFECT car, is starting to concern me. I have had a couple of problems that tells me that I am going to get more serious problems shortly. Most likely when my warranty coverage ends.

1. I had to take it to the dealership around 5000 miles because of a sound and DRAG on engine when I had engaged my A/C. Problem was trash in the A/C well, which they removed, and then after the repair, they washed my car totally inside and out.

2. I have a hard shifting problem between 2 and 3 gear when the engine is still car. More like a minor slamming.

3. Now my right passenger side power window is stuck half way down. I can bring it all the way down, but only half way up. Bringing it up gives me a "sticking" sound and then it stops at halfway.

Granted these are not MAJOR problems, COMPARED TO WHAT SOME PEOPLE ARE GETTING. iT IS JUST HAVING ME WONDER IF i AM GOING TO GET MAJOR PROBLEMS HERE SHORTLY....after my warranty is over.

ray_h71 · July 2003

1> Do you keep your car garaged or covered?

2> I have one abrupt 2-3 shift when the car is first driven from a cold start. This seems prevalent with this automatic transaxle. I figure it's Hyundai's problem for 10 years or 100,000 miles. The rest of the time all shifts are silken. One thing, if you've gotten your transmission fluid drained and refilled, or are considering doing so, it's IMPERATIVE that you only use a Mitsubishi "SP-III" specification fluid! There are three sources for this specification fluid - Mitsubishi, Hyundai, and Kia. Use of anything else will rapidly result in poor shift quality and is highly likely to result in eventual transaxle failure. Any evidence that transaxle damage was due to use of the wrong fluid would void your powertrain warranty coverage for transaxle repair. Very few, if any, independent transmission shops will use the required factory fluid. They prefer to use commonly available GM specification "Dexron-III" bulk fluid with a top-off of a supplement, mostly available only to the trade, that claims it optimizes "Dexron-III" specification ATF to the car maker's own ATF specification. It doesn't. (Many car makers are now specifying their own proprietary, heavily friction modified ATFs these days.) As far as I'm aware, real "SP-III" ATF is ONLY available through Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi dealers. You can look at Wall*Mart, K-mart, Pep Boys, NAPA, Autozone, etc., but you won't find it. I picked up a bottle at a Kia dealer to carry in the trunk for top-up purposes. As sold under the Kia brand, it was $3.99/qt. The Hyundai brand was $4.50/qt. Both carried the same catalog number though the labels differed by brand name. (Hyundai owns Kia, now.) The Mitsubishi "SP-III" ATF was $6.00/qt. <gag> My 2003 Sonata only has ~6,800 miles on it so it still has the factory-fill fluid in the tranny. I intend to drain the transaxle and refill it myself at 12,000 miles.

3> Some of the power window regulators on the pre-2003 Sonatas and XG350s have been troublesome. There was a running change in these mechanisms in late 2002. Your car may be equipped with the troubled units. Since your car is less than 5 years old, if it has fewer than 60,000 miles, and you reside in the U.S., a replacement should be covered under your car's "basic" warranty. Get hoppin'.

albanybuddy · July 2003

I have had my new 2002 Hyundai Sonata for less than a year. I have 19500 miles on it. I heard this awful metal grinding noise in the back. I brought it in and they said the rear brakes had worn out and ruined the rotors. THe dealer said that brake wear is not covered under warrenty. I have never heard of brakes wearing out in less than 20000 miles and in less than a year. Is this normal. They are charging me $400.

ray_h71 · July 2003

I agree that pad wear-out in that short of mileage seems unusual. Am I correct in assuming the rotors have to be replaced, too, or were the audible wear indicators the source of the "banshee" screech? However, you may be SOL. Hyundai will cover "normal consummables" only up to the first 12,000 miles or normal replacement interval, whichever comes first. Brake pads are subject to too many variables (terrain, driving style, etc.) to give a hard and fast expected wear rate, so the warranty is generous in covering pad replacement at all. (There ARE the little grannies who mercilessly ride the brake pedal.) Since the rear rotors have a "top hat" drum for the parking brake to work off of, I'm wondering whether your parking brake cable's slack was misadjusted. If that's the case, you may be entitled to reimbursement consideration for a factory defect. You'd need to request your dealer contact the zone rep. for authorization. Otherwise, you could submit a copy of the repair invoice and a cover letter stating your position to Hyundai Customer Care for reimbursement consideration.

Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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