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Older S-10's
Hi everyone! I hope this discussion takes off and becomes a good source of info on older S-10 trucks and a source of comraderie for owners of them.
A bought a white, 2 WD, 1989 S-10 with the Tahoe Package on July 16, 2001. The truck had 134,502 miles on it at the time of my purchase. My truck has the 2.8 V6 and a five speed transmission. It also has air conditioning, which works very well.
This truck was a "rebuild," having been bought from an insurance pool by the dealer from whom I bought it. This is my first experience with a salvaged vechicle, and it has certainly been a pleasant one so far!
I suppose older vehicles are commonly totalled by insurance companies for very little actual damage. This was apparently the case with my truck. The dealer told me that it had sustained only a couple smashed fenders and nothing more than just cosmetic damage.
I was able to buy this truck for $2450.00 with tax and license included! It looks almost like a brand new truck. Even the interior is in great shape, except for splits in the vinyl seat on the drivers side. I am having the bench part of the seat re-covered next week.
I'll bet I would have had to pay $1000 more for this truck, had it not been a salvage.
I have put almost 2000 miles on the truck, and the oil level is still exactly on the full mark on the dip stick! I plan on changing oil every 3000 miles, so I already know that I won't have to add oil between changes.
The gas mileage has been anywhere from 23.2 for a low to 24.1 for a high with my normal mix of driving, and it was 25.6 on a tank of gas that included one longer trip than my normal commute.
I totally love this little truck, and I consider it a steal for the price I paid.
I have had the U joints changed, which took care of a vibration that I had noticed. I have also had a chip on the windshield repaired so that it wouldn't spread.
I am very proud of that little truck, and it looks like it will make a great daily driver.
Let's hear about YOUR old S-10.
tom
A bought a white, 2 WD, 1989 S-10 with the Tahoe Package on July 16, 2001. The truck had 134,502 miles on it at the time of my purchase. My truck has the 2.8 V6 and a five speed transmission. It also has air conditioning, which works very well.
This truck was a "rebuild," having been bought from an insurance pool by the dealer from whom I bought it. This is my first experience with a salvaged vechicle, and it has certainly been a pleasant one so far!
I suppose older vehicles are commonly totalled by insurance companies for very little actual damage. This was apparently the case with my truck. The dealer told me that it had sustained only a couple smashed fenders and nothing more than just cosmetic damage.
I was able to buy this truck for $2450.00 with tax and license included! It looks almost like a brand new truck. Even the interior is in great shape, except for splits in the vinyl seat on the drivers side. I am having the bench part of the seat re-covered next week.
I'll bet I would have had to pay $1000 more for this truck, had it not been a salvage.
I have put almost 2000 miles on the truck, and the oil level is still exactly on the full mark on the dip stick! I plan on changing oil every 3000 miles, so I already know that I won't have to add oil between changes.
The gas mileage has been anywhere from 23.2 for a low to 24.1 for a high with my normal mix of driving, and it was 25.6 on a tank of gas that included one longer trip than my normal commute.
I totally love this little truck, and I consider it a steal for the price I paid.
I have had the U joints changed, which took care of a vibration that I had noticed. I have also had a chip on the windshield repaired so that it wouldn't spread.
I am very proud of that little truck, and it looks like it will make a great daily driver.
Let's hear about YOUR old S-10.
tom
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I went back to the dealer where I bought it the other day and asked if he had a better beauty ring than the worst one that I had on my truck. He let me search through a pile of wheel covers and beauty rings, and I found one that was in real good shape. He let me exchange mine for that one and did not charge me anything.
I had the U joints changed at a little shop down at the end of my road, and I hung around and watched them do the work. I really enjoyed watching them do that and talking to them.
I went to a junkyard to look for a seat, but they only had a cloth one in the right color (burgundy) and I want to stay with vinyl.
I have bought some nice looking floor mats for it.
I just like to do stuff like that.
tom
Oh well, I guess I can always post messages to myself here.
Bought a new CD player for the S-10 today. It had a factory am/fm with cassett, and the radio kept going to static for long periods and then would come back.
I got a Pioneer Premier DEH-230 receiver/cd palyer and had them install a powered subwoofer also, a Clarion PSW160. I still need to upgrade the dash speakers for some better high frequency sound. I think I can change those out myself, so I might just get them mail order or something.
I ended up with a pretty decent sound system after spending $539.98. It isn't world class or anything, but it sounds pretty good.
Filled the truck up today and got 24.4 MPG with just my regular driving mix on that tank.
Still lovin' that little truck!
tom
All I have now is the two factory speakers in the dash and the powered subwoofer mentioned in the previous post.
The guy at the sound shop said that upgrading those dash speakers would be the best step to take for an improvement. You experts agree with that?
I've got all the bass that I want now, but I can tell that there is room for improvement in the mid and high range, especially the high range.
thanks
tom
Glad to hear that you are having such good luck with that Blazer. I had a 92 Jimmy 2 door 4 x 4 that I dearly loved, but I totalled it back in 1995. It was medium gray metallic, and I thought it was beautiful. It had the throttle body 4.3 L.
Keep posting!
tom
Jim
Mines the big one on the right (00 Silverado)
The one on the left is my dads 92 S-10. Red cab 4.3 V-6. Is about to turn 100K real quick. Runs great. About 2 more yrs left (until he retires) then it goes to my lil bro (15 now) and he will finish the thing off hehe
Great truck i drove it for awhile but had to step up to a fullsize.
Ryan
That looks like a nice little S-10, ryanbab. Any other pics of it that show more of the truck? (Nice Silverado, by the way!)
tom
tom
Check out
http://www.picturetrail.com/ryanbab
there are pics of it in there
I'll try later.
tom
I paid $120.00 with tax and installation, and the MSRP listed on RF's web site is $130.00. I guess I got a decent deal.
They did make a nice difference in the sound quality. I had great bass, but very weak mid and high range with just those factory speakers. Now I'm in good shape over all.
These speakers have a built-in dome tweeter and are deeper than the factory speakers. This meant that the speaker covers would not go back on exactly flush with the dash board. They have a little hump in the middle, which doesn't bother me much, since they have made such a difference in the sound quality.
I have ended up spending $660 on the stereo equipment all together. Hope I got the most "bang for the buck," but I am a total novice as far as this stuff is concerned.
I know that you can spend a fortune on that stuff, but I couldn't go that route. I just wanted something decent, and that's what I have now. I was wanting at least the equivavlent of a real good factory system, and I have that and then some.
Let's have some posting!
tom
I called the GM dealer, and they said I would have to order one from Helm, Inc.
I checked on it, and they want $20 plus $6.50 shipping. I guess that's not too bad, but I don't know if I want one that bad or not. I am going to check a junkyard today to see if I can find one.
If anyone is interested, you can go to www.helminc.com and order an owners manual.
tom
proceeded to lower the truck and add a few upgrades. This truck was very quick due to the axel ratio. It was a work truck owned by a construction co. We paid $3500 for it in 1992. My son put 200,000 miles on this engine. Only repairs were alternator and starter. He sold and bought a used '94 lowered reg cab with 45,000 mi, 4.3 and 180 hp engine. This truck was far slower due to 3:08 gears. It was also trouble free to 200,000 miles again until he bought a new '99 Xtreme with 4.3 and 180 HP engine. Again that vehicle seemed slower than his '88. The Xtreme was upgraded with 17 in wheels and tires, lowered 2 more inches from factory lower. Additions of K and N, exhaust, chip upgrade to disable limiter. Vehicle was fast, but lacked tru punch. Again trouble free. He has since upgraded to leased 2001 Xtreme Blazer 2 dr.
My first S10 was a used 1987 Chevy Tahoe 4x4, ext cab with 2.8L 60 deg 125 hp V6. 3:73 gears, transfer case, skid plates, upgrade tires to UNIROYAL ATX LT235 X 75 15'S. Vehicle had 71,000 mi. I drove it to 144,000 mi. Only trouble was a broken plastic vacuum line. About $2.00. It was trouble free. Comsumer's report rated this truck UNACCEPTABLE, due to engine, electronics and Brake problems witch i never encountered. Only thing about this truck was that it was very gutless going uphill. Offroading was fun and exciting. I liked this truck so much i replaced it was a used 1991 Tahoe Blazer 4x4 4-door mini SUV. It was 39,000 trouble free miles, a lease turn in. It was maroon, had ABS, transfer case and a 160 HP 4.3 engine,
tow packkage, heavy duty radiator cooling. This vehicle was one of the worst vehicles i have ever owned. Problem area, brake pads every 18,000 mi, ABS system failure to the tune of $1700. I went to all auto parts stores to try and repair myself, they all said it was a dealer item, to go to dealer. This S10 also had numerous electrical problems, engine would smoke blue at start up due to defective valve guides. We finally traded this in a a leaased '99 Tracker 4x4, 4-dr 2.0L munchkin SUV. Which my wife drives exclusively. She love it. I don;t care for it much. I decided to try one more S10 purchase. A 2000 S10 Xtreme with 2.2L Vortec, 120 HP, 3:73 axel, ZQ8 suspension, 5 sp manual with short thro shifter, close ratio steering and beautiful body cladding. It was a reg cab in ONYX black. A great handling commuter vehicle with a 20 gas fule tank and erratic fuel guage that got 28-29 mpg at a steady 67 mph. I upgraded to K& N, a few mods to air box, catback exhaust. She could onloy do 93 mph, 0-60 in 12 secs but was a sweet looking vehicle. Trouble free to 20,000 mi then the Lemonaide factor set in, i mean i was at the mercy of the dealer. Severe stalling, at least 8 times, had to come to full stop before engine would start. Dealer could not find anything wrong, after 4 visists they told me to pick out another vehicle....it was the engine computer
Sorry about your bad luck with the newer ones.
I think the older body style is ten times sharper than the rounded off newer ones. What was the last year of the old body style? 94? Or was it '93?
Thanks for the post.
tom
Good luck with youyr S10. I feel if i staid with the '91 and the Xtreme i could have worked out the bugs, defects eventually. However when one is burned both financially and severe defects it hardens oneself against that product. My current 2000 3/4 ton C2500 has been trouble free for 34,990 miles as of this date and one year later. Even with heavy add-ons and mods. I still miss my Xtreme. Lots of fun while it ran trouble free for 20,000 mi.
Have a great weekend and holiday
Regards,
Andy
PS I ordered the manuals from Helm's for $180.00 for my current truck. They are awesome, can take apart vehicle bolt by bolt with vived instructions. Best out there.
tom
I have always been a fanatic about oil changes, but other people have benefited by that, since I have always traded so often. I have taken care of new vehicles as if I were going to put 200,000 miles on them, but then I would trade them off before they reached 50K (often LONG before that).
Anyway, I was wondering if a guy needs to do something different or use a different type of oil for a high mileage vehicle.
I have heard about Valvoline Max Life oil, which is supposed to be designed specifically for high mileage engines. That just hype, or is there any real benefit to that stuff?
I have used Mobil 1 full synthetic in my last few vehicles, but I don't know if I should put my S-10 on that stuff. I have heard that synthetic oil does not keep the seals and gaskets as soft as regular oil does and can eventually cause leaks. Don't know if that is true or not.
Please jump in here with your opinions. I have 2200 miles on the truck since I bought it, and I plan on changing the oil at 3K. The dealer had just changed the oil the day that I bought the truck.
Anything other tips besides oil related stuff would be appreciated too.
Thanks,
tom
I have the 2.8 V6 with a five speed. I don't have a tach, so I don't know my RPMs at any given speed. I want the engine to last as long as possible, so I don't want to push it too hard. Right now, it doesn't use any oil, and I would like to keep it that way.
On a level stretch of road, will I be putting too much strain on the old engine at 65 or 70 MPH? It seems to run just fine at that range of speed. If I just drive without specifically trying to hold any particular speed, it seems to just naturally settle in somewhere between 65 and 70.
Thanks
tom
1. Trucks were first designed for, and still are aimed at commercial users and fleet managers. That means that they are designed, sold and maintained for their long service life. They typically have more parts available longer than a car, so we also enjoy the benefit. You'll be surprised to find out that even when your truck is 20-25 years old, body items like hoods, doors, fenders and bumpers will be readily available. If they were expensive or unreliable, a LOT of fleet managers would be going to Ford, Dodge (ugh!) or Toyota (ugh x 10).
2. While you won't usually find trucks in Motor Trend or Automobile magazine because of their latest gee-whiz high tech gadgets, you also won't have to worry about finding an exotic alternator, computer or brake system that "they only used one year and with certain engines and transmissions, and they haven't made in years." Common items like alternators, radiators, fuel injectors and other items often have the bugs worked out of them early in the course of their service life, and are relatively cheap to buy, new or rebuilt. My 2000 S-10 may not have rack and pinion steering, but I can lube all of the wear items on my truck's front end rather than waiting for one of those "sealed-for-life" grease fittings to fail and then have to replace an entire steering assembly.
As for maintenance on an older engine where you may not know its service history, here's a few tips:
1. Clean the fuel injectors using a product called 44K made by BG products. It is not some "miracle in a can" sold on late night TV, but it IS used by thousands of new-car dealers to keep their customers happy. If you can't find it locally, go to www.bgprod.com to find a local dealer or www.cambridgeauto.com, then go to the link for ryno products. They sell and ship 44K all over the country from that web site. While you are at it, change the fuel and air filters and the PCV valve.
2. At 100,000 miles, either remove the radiator to have it rodded out at a good radiator shop, or replace it. I know the manual doesn't mention this as a maintenance item, but it should. While it is out, replace the water pump and fan belt tensioner if they don't look as if they have ever been replaced. While you have the room to inspect it, check the harmonic balancer carefully to make sure the rubber isn't cracked.
3. Speaking of maintenance, after 100,000 miles, several items should be checked or replaced as a matter of preventive maintenance. These items include the shocks, front wheel bearings, brake wheel cylinders or calipers, all rubber fuel lines under the truck and ALL, and I mean, ALL vacuum lines. I usually just go to the parts store, buy about three feet of the three or four most common sizes of vacuum line, and replace each vacuum line ONE AT A TIME with the new hose that comes closest to matching it.
4. If you have turned over 100K miles, no one tells you this until they fail or your gas mileage goes down dramatically, but those spark plug wires probably saw their best days about 40,000 miles ago. While you are at it, replace the cap and rotor. Like the vacuum lines, do the spark plug wires ONE AT A TIME. As for plugs, I've heard good things about the AC Delco plugs made for older engines called RapidFire, or something like that. Otherwise, I would NOT recommend any exotic, split fire, double-gold, solid platinum/titanium, whatevers. I don't care how many of your buddies claim to get an extra 5 or 10 horsepower; the only thing most of those expensive plugs do is empty your wallet faster. Same thing about el-cheapo 89 cent specials. Just find out which AC-Delco plug came in your engine, and go with that in 90-99% of most situations.
By now you can tell I strongly believe in PREVENTIVE maintenance. Fact is, it is cheaper and easier to replace a water pump in my driveway in the shade on a cool engine than it is to do it by the side of the road in 90+ degree heat on a hot motor while traffic races by. As a result, I've never been stranded due to a mechanical problem in well over 20 years.
Good luck and enjoy your trucks.
Joe
I have done some of the things you mentioned, or at least checked them.
It looks like the plug wires have already been replaced on my truck, so I think I'm in good shape there for a while.
The radiator was replaced during the rebuilding of my truck, since it was damaged in the accident that resulted in the truck being totalled.
I did have the cooling system flushed shortly after buying the truck. I thought that just cause the radiator had been replaced didn't mean there might not be some crud in the block. The radiator shop where I had the flush done reported that the stuff that came out of it didn't look bad at all.
I have replaced the PCV valve and the air filter.
I've had the serpentine belt checked and was told by a mechanic that I trust that it still has some time to go before it needs to be replaced.
We were going to check the front wheel bearings, but the grease looked real fresh, so it appears that they have recently been cleaned and repacked. I will need a brake job in the next few months, so I agreed to the mechanic's suggestion that we just wait until then to inspect the bearings.
I really hadn't given any thought to vacuum lines, so your tip on that was really useful. I'll get that done before too long.
Also, I will probably check on that fuel injector cleaner that you mentioned.
Thanks, again, Joe, and please respond to my question about how fast I should drive on the highway. I don't want to needlessly drive slow, but I SURE don't want to put too much stress on that little 2.8 either. It really seems to like to go 65 to 70, and I don't think it's under much strain at that kind of speed. I would like to hear other peoples' opinions on that.
Sure do love that little truck! I think I have a good one, and it was a steal at $2450 on the road price.
tom
She didnt drive it crazy and it lasted. It was tough to get the thing up to 70 but when it got there it was fine. I dont think it ever seen 75.
Ryan
The Blazer has been a great vehicle and the reason I bought the new PU. (there was a day when I said I would never own a chevy)
Anyway, my reason for posting is I have experienced a problem now for a while and I am hoping someone here can help. My Blazer has the 4.3 V6 with auto trans. The water pump started leaking and was changed out at about 120,000. The shop that did the work had to change the water pump two more times because the replacements also leaked... but they did it under warranty and it did not cost me any additional money. However ever since the first change out of the water pump the temp gage has always read hotter than the truck ever did before the change. Before the water pump was changed out the gage never read above 200. Now on a hot day the temp will almost go to the red line. I have taken the truck back to the shop that did the work and they flushed the system and changed out the thermostat (twice) but I still have this problem. I have not driven the truck much this summer due to it getting so hot in traffic. That is the other thing.. while driving at highway speed the thermostat will read below 200, but will rise when in stop-N-go traffic.
Also a little more history about the truck.. I bought it in 1992 with 25K on it and have always had the oil changed at 3000 miles. It now needs some minor cosmetic work but other than that it has been a great truck. Hope to get over 200,00 on it.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
Heat: Welcome to Texas, NativeTX! Sounds like the shop has an air pocket trapped in your engine's coolant system. Check with the Chevy dealer or have the shop pull your truck's information up on Mitchell's or AllData to see if there is a proceedure to bleed any trapped air out of the cooling system. Otherwise, I would suspect they damaged the fan clutch when they replaced the first water pump. Have them check it; they should have looked at that already.
Good luck to all!
Joe
Sometime when the temp gage is showing high temperature, park the truck and leave it running. Then pop the hood and see if the fan is turning. Also, check the condition of the fan blades and the shroud. (AFTER you shut off the engine, he he).
tom
tom
Jim
Thanks again.
also it may need a clutch...are we talking $199 here or like $599?
thanks for the help guys...
mine has 109,000 miles on it and runs like new...i love my truck. 1993 s-10 Tahoe with five speed...one great little truck.
i am currently looking for a new ranger to replace it, because even though it gets 23 mpg in all-around use, the rangers get more like 26 and the new four cylinder has more power than my old V6.