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elpelao80 · August 2007

Hi experts,

I have an Accord 95 that I recently took to the mechanic because it was overheating. He said that the problem was due the fact the fan only turn on sometimes. Now when I ignite the car the fan starts to roll and it never stops. I believe this is not right. Could you please correct me? Is the fan supposed to be on at all times?

Thanks for your help,
:sick:

Mr_Shiftright · August 2007

No, that's not right. If you switch on the AC though, it may run all the time the AC is switched on....and on many cars, the AC switches on when you use "defrost", so you might want to check that your AC is off and your defrost is off. If the fan still runs, maybe your mechanic rigged it to do that. It won't work though, as the fan will burn out eventually. No great harm here but you should get it squared away. The fan is triggered by sensors for temperature and operates off a relay.
(a relay is just a big heavy switch that is triggered by a smaller switch or a sensor).

user777 · August 2007

simple test. turn car off. locate the relays for the AC fan in the engine compartment relay/fuse block.

locate one of the power-window relays also there. swap out the AC fan relay with the power-window relay (providing the relay number is the same. on my '94 it was).

if that fixes your problem, i suspect the relay is bad (possibly welded contacts. can happen). go to Autozone or the dealer and get a new one.

tootrapt · August 2007

I own a 88 Honda Accord LX and I cant seem to find the oil filter. Can anyone help me out and just give me a quick reference to where it is located?

user777 · August 2007

it may be mid engine in the front, but i doubt it.

drive your vehicle with one set of wheels up on a curb. put it in park (if AT) or gear (if MT) and engage the parking brake.

now scoot underneath.

tootrapt · August 2007

I've already been underneath the vehicle and I still cant locate it, I was told it would be right under the manifold but I still couldnt locate it... am I just retarded or am I looking in the wrong place?

user777 · August 2007

this may help:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1988&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=ALTERNATOR+BR- - ACKET

and
page 62: here
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual/62se321.pdf

scoot all the way under until you find the oil pan and oil drain plug (bolt). Then look up. i bet it is at the back of the engine, 1/2 way up.

kvwater · September 2007

I have owned 4 stick shift cars over the past 20 years and test drove a 2007, 6 speed Nissan Altima yesterday and today. Two of the sticks I've owned have been a Maxima and 300 ZX. I loved them. Anyhow... when I took the first test drive yesterday I thought that it shifted strange but I haven't driven a stick in 3 years. I thought that I didn't drive the car very well yesterday because I had a very hard time getting it in to gear. I thought it was me though, just being out of practice.(I've had an automatic for the past 3 years.) I went back today to talk numbers and take the car out for a couple of hours. I took it for a drive home with 41 miles on it and long story short...it would not go in reverse, 1st, 2nd or 5th gear. It got progressively worse as I drove it back to the dealership. I didn't grind any gears or hear any unusual noises. Maybe the gear box was loose from the manufacturer? The dealership is making me feel like I did something. I don't even see how on a car this new (even if you didn't know what you were doing) that it could brake that easily. Any opinions out there? :sick:

bolivar · September 2007

Maybe one of the previous 'test drivers' or, the dealership's 'lot boy' abused the car.

It could be a rather simple fix, if the linkage is missing a pin, etc.

Anyway, drive another car. If the dealership is really making you feel 'this is your fault', take your business elsewhere. They want your money. Any dealer can sell you a car.

Go to another dealer, drive another Altima. Modern manuals should shift smoothly.

kvwater · September 2007

I do think the linkage is missing a pin or it was loose and got looser.

Your absolutely correct. I will take my business else where. It's amazing how a couple of days give you perspective on things. They should have been apologizing up and down for my poor experience. They obviously don't need my money.

I found the car I want 40 minutes away which is a pain, but I don't care as long as I get the deal I want. I'm going to stick with the Altima but I'm going with the automatic. I just turned 40 on Friday. Do I really want to screw around with shifting? I will miss the fast part though!

oldfarmer50 · September 2007

I see this as a feature on some new cars. How do they work? I assume there is a sensor in the wheel somewhere but monitoring a spinning wheel sounds like a complicated system. I'm worried about expensive repair bills in the future.

user777 · September 2007

two technologies:

one is a radio xmitter that senses tire pressure (i think at the stem) and sends information to a receiver on the vehicle body. one xmitter per wheel.

second is to use the ABS infrastructure and thus rotation monitoring at each wheel to detect rotational speed at each wheel (if a tire looses pressure, it's radius changes; it's rotational speed therefore becomes different compared to the other wheels while it's circumference traverses the same distance traveled).

Mr_Shiftright · September 2007

Probably your greatest danger is from improper mounting and dismounting of the tire. An inexperienced tire tech will break the sensor.

kyfdx · September 2007

I read somewhere that all manufacturers are going to method 1.. That method 2 is outdated technology..

Now.. if I could remember where, I would provide a link.. :surprise:

user777 · September 2007

I think the problem with 2 is that for example it is incompatible with RFT technology. If the RFT has a stiff sidewall, there may be like atmosphere in the thing, and deformation too little to detect there's an issue.

I think with either, the problems with changing ambient and keeping pressures the same all around will lead to a lot of false positives.

kyfdx · September 2007

Those are good points.. I should have realized the runflat thing....

Pre-runflat, the ABS method was very reliable... I can't see TPMS sensors being anything but a pain in the butt...

royceb · September 2007

I was wondering how my driver side door handle works because it is starting to malfunction? I have a 97FORD CONTOUR. If I could get some info on how to get access to it and finding the problem, then that would be great!

user777 · September 2007

googling suggests a cable linkage. are you speaking about the outside or inside handle?

i presume if you want to DIY, then you're really looking at how to remove the door paneling, which is probably held on with clips, but i'm not sure.

hope someone else can help more.

did you try asking an independant shop that services fords? have you looked in a local bookstore for a service manual?

wilzap · October 2007

If I get a new set of rims and winter tires for my car do I have to get new TPMS sensors for them or can I bypass it.Its very costly to get new ones for the new set, I know I can have the other ones switched over to the new set, but I don't see anything in my manual about bypassing it,if a I go without I don't want the alarm going off,any ideas or thoughts on this

bolivar · October 2007

On many cars it would be tough to 'bypass'. The only hope would be to pull a fuse that drives them. But TPS on my Honda, Cadillac, and Chevy are tied into the Vehicle Stability and/or Traction Control.

My guess - you are going to get a light or two illuminated on the dash.

The good thing about transferring them over, they might just need new 'bolts' that hold them on. The bad thing about transferring them over, they might not fit inside the snow rims you are going to get. I hear this problem a lot with people that get 'sportier' wheels on cars with TPS's.

simon3710 · October 2007

My headlights and speedometer did not work in my 02 Jeep Liberty. The fog lights and high beams worked fine. The dealer, and a good local mechanic, both did diagnostics and said the Body Control Module was failing. I replaced the BCM and Junction (fuse) Box and the headlights now work. The speedometer still does not work. The odometer is on but does not advance. Any help out there? :confuse:

bflhrty · November 2007

I have a 2005 Acura TSX with 18000 miles and had to have it towed to the dealer last week. The result was that they said the clutch had burned out. I still find this hard to believe as I have been driving manual transmission cars for over 10 years (1990 Accord with 190k and the original clutch, 2002 Accord with 30k).

It was considered a wear item and not covered under warranty. The cost to me was about $1900. (I lease cars so I will not have expensive maintenance repairs.) When I went to pick up the car, I asked for the parts which they initially would not realease per the regional manager from Acura. I had opened a case with Acura Client Service but they came back and said that it would not be covered under the bumper to bumper warranty. The case was considered closed so I did not understand why they would not let me have the parts. I picked up the car but am meeting with a Service Tech next week to review the parts and I want them to tell me what happened and what would have been the cause. Given my conservative driving style, I find t hard to believe that it was my fault.

So any advise on what to look for and what to ask? Has anyone had this issue? Anyone else think this seems strange to replace a clutch at 18k.

Thanks

kiawah · November 2007

It is certainly possible to go thru a clutch in 18K miles, if either there was a mechanical issue or a user issue. Since you've driven manuals for years and many miles without problems, I would be leaning toward some mechanical defect as the cause. Proving it however, is the challenge.

A mis-adjusted clutch would be my first guess, and some binding in the clutch pedal would be my second guess (not allowing the pedal to return up completely). I had a truck years ago with this problem, which caused the throwout bearing to go prematurely. If you have any pedal binding that you can show now, that should be enough to indicate to them that the binding was/is the original problem, the clutch wear was the result of that binding.

Would be impossible to show now a mis-adjusted clutch, if that was the problem.

redhead79 · December 2007

my boyfriend's car jack is a piece of crap!! it is a silver craftsman jack (possibly 2 tons) that came in a set with 2 jack stands (work fine). it rolls back and forth when he uses it (while lifting the car up) and shifts the car over real bad at the same time. it's awful!! he can't even get it up one notch on the jack stands!! without the piece of crap making it worse.

any recommendations on a solid jack that is under $100?? i'd like to buy it as a late xmas present so ASAP responses would be great. models as well as where to buy it would help. he has an old VW golf so it's not a heavy car and i have a Nissan Altima - so i need a jack suited for both. possibly a 2 or 3 ton jack?? please help!!! (i know aluminum racing jacks are over $100 so i can't go that awesome)

bdkinnh · December 2007

>"any recommendations on a solid jack that is under $100"

Not likely. A decent jack will cost more than that. You may find another Craftsman jack for around $100, but it may have the same problems as the one he has now.

redhead79 · December 2007

thank you for your help! i had a feeling that was the answer. i think i'll let him buy the jack on his own and i'll look for something else.

autodr · December 2007

What kind of vehicle? There will be no "bypassing" it, I can tell you that for sure. But... why would you buy new sensors? Transfer the old ones to the new rims. There are 2 main styles of TPMS sensors, assuming you have a vehicle using a direct tire pressure monitor system and not an indirect monitor system.

One style is actually the valve stem. Look at the valve stems. If they are metal with a nut at the base of the stem, then that should be the valve stem type and will usually transfer to most any brand of rims. But I'm sure you'll come across some brand that they won't fit into or the inside of the rim where the sensor rests may not be the right shape.

If you have a plain valve stem, then you likely have the kind that are inside the tire strapped to the rim down in the mounting well of the rim. It is held in place with a huge hose clamp that runs around the entire rim. With those, usually all you need to do is get a larger replacement clamp. For example, if you car has 16in rims from the factory and you want to throw some 20's, 22's, or whatever on it, then you need a larger clamp for the larger rim and you are in business.

miragesea · December 2007

Hello:
I plan to buy 4 new tires for 96 Olds Cutlas Ciera. The normal size is 185-75-R14 but I'm having lots of difficulty locating this size. Costco can order new Michelins for me but only the 195 size. They say the tires will be wider.
I'd like to know.
Will the 195 tires look strange and visibly wide?
Will there be any transmission problems?
Any other problems associated with using the 195 tire?

many thanks in advance
Sarah

Mr_Shiftright · December 2007

Should be fine. The differences are pretty small, if you look at the chart below.

And no you won't notice it visually.

Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference
185/75-14 5.5in 12.5in 24.9in 78.3in 809 0.0%
195/75-14 5.8in 12.8in 25.5in 80.2in 790 2.4%

There will however, be a small speedometer error. I have been told that anything under 3% is acceptable. .

So when your speedometer says 60 mph, you are actually traveling 61.4 mph.

watt476 · December 2007

Both seemed to happen at the same time. I have a 91 Olds Cutlass Ciera and it stalled on me. When I got the battery charged I noticed gas bubbling from a valve on top of the motor-it doesn't even need to be running for the gas to flow. The battery isn't very old, and I have not been having any other problems. Can anyone help?

kiawah · December 2007

If you have gas bubbling from a valve on top of the engine, you need to NOT start it or drive it. Have it towed to a garage. You'll have a high probability of engine fire.

watt476 · December 2007

Thank you, I did think of that. Do you have any ideas about the problem? The battery is only a year old, but will not hold a charge. And the fuel leak appeared at the same time. Are the two problems related? Or just a coincedence? Thanks for any advice you can give.

bolivar · December 2007

It's a coincedence.

A battery and a fuel leak aren't related unless someone whacked the fuel rail with the 40 pound battery.

watt476 · December 2007

Thanks bolivar. I had the battery checked and it came up good. I think I'll look for a bad wire, and have the alternator checked. As far as the fuel leak goes, I'll try to tighten or replace the valve core-it looks like a valve stem on a tire, so why not? I'll let you know how it goes.

dcw41 · January 2008

If the daytime running lights come on, but the lights don't work using the switch, what is the problem?

kiawah · January 2008

If you can get a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle, I'll help you shoot this problem.

dcw41 · January 2008

Where would I get the schematics? A dealership?

kiawah · January 2008

I always buy a complete set of factory service manuals for my vehicles, and they include complete electrical schematics.

www.helminc.com has manuals, and for some makes they have an online subscription for 2 days which gets you access to the service manuals, and it's $10 bucks. I just looked real quick, but I don't think they offer that for the tracker...at least I didn't see it first pass looking.

you might check a large autoparts chain, they carry some (non-mfg) manuals...not as detailed, don't know if they'd have schematics....don't even know if they'd have a tracker.

might try searching the internet.

This varies significantly by mfg, year, light layout, and even trim level....so it would be hard to shoot this with generic electrical info. I'm betting you have a couple different relays that are utilized for your beams, to shift between DRL and High beams, low beams and DRL.

As you've found, you run the risk of just throwing unnecessary parts at it, unless you can get a set of schematics and see what all is involved and how they have it wired.

If you can get your hands on schematic, scan it and/or send me a fax to my carspace id, and I'll help you figure this out.

0patience · January 2008

Where would I get the schematics? A dealership?
AlldataDIY.com sells online subscriptions to the technical information for your vehicle.
Helminc has disks and manuals.

Your local library may even have Alldata online at the library or may have manuals.

watt476 · February 2008

It turns out the leaky valve sprayed gas on the alternator, knocking it out. I replaced the valve core and alternator. It's running good now, except the radiator fan nows runs constantly, even when the engine is cold. Does anyone know what causes this? Thanks for any advice.

luckins · February 2008

Nevermind, I managed to get the wires off and I changed all the wires. But, I could only change the plug on the first cylinder because I kept getting the spark plug tool stuck in the hole. I tightened it with the wire and I'm sure that it will be ok because it was pretty secure in the hole. But, I think I should tighten it further and I want to change the rest of the plugs. So, I was wondering if there was a trick to keeping the socket on the ratchet rather than having it come off in the hole?

luckins · February 2008

It's a 2004 Aveo.

OK, I just bought this car three weeks ago and I am fixing it up because I'm a perfectionist and like to have my cars idle perfectly. I have a rough idle and want to check the plugs. When I got to where the spark plug wires, I could not get the wires off! I managed to get one off the coil, so I know I can do it. But, I can't get any off of the plugs. I am very cautious about doing this because the car is so new to me and I don't want to damage the wires without being committed to changing them.

I've seen what the wires look like and they have a really long boot into a really deep hole. Is there a trick to getting them off if they are stuck? Also, what size spark plug socket do I need to get? And, what if the wires break and get stuck in the hole?

ronsmith38 · February 2008

They make a tool available at auto supply stores that aid in safely removing the sparkplug wires.

luckins · February 2008

Thanks, I got the wires off and changed, but now I have a problem with the socket getting stuck in the hole. I tightened one plug with the wire and it seems pretty snug, but would like the change the rest of the plugs.

I used the wire to tighten the first plug and it seems snug. I saw somewhere that mentioned using a rubber hose to tighten it, too. I might try that on another one. I just hope they're tight enough. The wires are pretty snug in there, so I doubt they will blow out.

I also saw another tool with a handle long enough so that the socket and handle are all one piece. I might get that and use that to tighten while using the regular socket wrench to take them out.

chuckiej3 · February 2008

i have an 89 dodge ram 50 that needs new o rings. i need to know if this is a job that i could do myself . it has a 2.6 liter engine. i would consider my self above average when it comes to do it yourself projects.

kiawah · February 2008

Using the wire to tighten the plug, is no way near tight enough.

luckins · February 2008

Thanks. I actually got a t-tool and managed to tighten them up the way I like it. I tightened them to where they were snug and tried to turn it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch further. Usually, this works fine unless I have a PCV issue. I will check to see if any are loose in a week or so before I take a long trip.

watt476 · March 2008

Does anyone know why this is? It runs constantly, even when the motor's cold.
Any help would be appreciated.

liftsuper · March 2008

I have a 01 Mazda b3000 went to have the fuel filter changed and was told that they could not get lines off on the tank side of the filter. this supposedly is a common problem that requires the fuel lines from the tank to be changed. is it possible to splice these lines as opposed to dropping the tank and replacing them.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2008

Sounds like a bad temperature sensor. It thinks your engine is hot and grounds the circuit for the fan. Or a loose wire to the sensor is grounding.

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