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One would also have to consider where the splice was made.
Baja Bugs and Buggies
do a lot of homework before you begin a project like this, is my first advice, and plan out and budget out what you want to accomplish.
Problems while exercising my car I turned into a lot and it died. Got it started but it would not run unless the RPM's were kept up a little. So I figured time for new mechanical fuel pump. Installed new Holley 110GPM. Started up good idle, drove down the road nice and thought I'd get my foot into it a little. As I let up on gas to turn around it died as before. Start up & had to RPM up somewhat. Now same ole keep RPM up or dies and some popping. In playing with it today a good shot of fire came out of carb. The distributor is not stock ie points etc It has the look of a Summit HEI power type. I'm guessing carb float adjustment or rebuild or maybe timing. Thanks for any help. Rick
Valves should be shut, when the cylinder mixture is compressed, and then ignited by the spark plug. If the intake valve is still open when ignition occurs, then the fire backs up thru the intake manifold and out the carb.
Sounds like the float level is way too high.
When you turn or decellerate, the fuel sloshes out of the float bowl.
Or, the needle and seat are leaking by.
It will cause similar symptoms to being advanced.
Any fuel leaks in the carb?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Thank you for the response.
I had thought of timing issues but wasn't sure if I was on track.
I also need to gear up and purchase timing light etc. I haven't fooled with the older cars for a long, long time and those days were the 60's & 70.s. So I am rusty .
I'll keep you informed as to the fix.
Thanks again
Rick
Thanks for the response.
No I did no work on the carb as all was working great and then at idle the engine died.
Even by keeping the RPM's up and on higher end all things were good, so that's why I changed out the fuel pump. After changing out fuel pump it ran good as I went up the road, say 35 or 40, then after getting into the gas it went great but upon decellerating it again died . Same problems as before so I let it set for a while.
I think there some issues with the carb & timing.
Got it running today only at higher RPM's (1200 or 1400) Then I heard some back firing through carb.
Thanks again
Rick
I'm going to move your post about better tires for your SL to here:
Tires, Tires, Tires
I think you'll get more response there. See you over there!
MrShiftright
Host
Why not post this over in our TECHNICAL QUESTIONS.
You are more likely to get a response. Also, put in more detail. Is this a 3.1 or 3.8 engine? How did you test the injectors?
I am not opposed to doing any possible work myself and certainly have the time to do so. Suggetions?
No harm in changing the oil, or using an additive--who knows, might help?
You have to have a scan tool and a step by step diagnostic tree to guide you along.
Moisture and crude gets into the brake system, and collects down in the calipers, behind the pistons. It can corrode the inside of the caliper. The problem usually surfaces after a brake pad change, when the pistons are pressed back into the caliper (required to make room for the thicker brake pads). Pressing the piston back, forces the piston back onto the area of crude and corrosion, and the piston begins to stick and not 'float freely' as required.
Putting on the brakes puts tremendous hydraulic pressure on the piston, and it is able to force the piston out okay. However when you take your foot off of the pedal, the piston isn't able to float back and the pad stays engaged with the rotor. Your rotors start to get very hot (and can warp), you can usually smell the overheating, and the brakes stay engaged. Pads wear out quickly.
I usually replace the calipers with every 2nd set brake pad change. They're cheap enough, easy to do. Flush the fluid with every change.
How old are those calipers? and how often have you flushed the brake fluid?
If this was my vehicle, I'd do a complete brake job replacing all calipers, pads, fluid, and rotors.
You haven't indicated that you've done previous maintenance of flushing hydraulics or replacing calipers, so for a vehicle as old as that is.....those calipers would be my first suspect. Compare the color of the hydraulic fluid with new clear fluid. Calipers are a simple change, and you need to start with the basics
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Like the ABS system is completely screwed up. Is there a Check Engine Light turned on? If so, have you checked the code? Or, is the Brake Light turned on, or some warning regarding the brake system? On some cars, the ABS braking system is a separate 'code setting' system from the main Check Engine Light, and sometimes even has a separate plug to access the codes.
Are you sure all 4 wheels are dragging or locking up? A corroded caliper piston (I had one of those) may not allow the brake pad to retract from the disc, but that would keep the brakes on 2 of the 4 wheels pressurized. Same thing for a caliper slide or corroded surface the caliper slides on.
Yes, you should flush the system. But if something has already been corroded, flushing will probably not fix the problem.
But the engine is still really gunky, so before I begin to dismantle the major engine parts I want to clean it well. The Hanes manual is very careful to point out that you should clean the engine before it is dismantled because you don't want any of that gunk getting in your engine. Ok... But with so many other parts removed, chemical cleaner or gunk is bound to get inside the engine.
How careful do I need to be to not get cleaner or gunk inside the engine? Is this even a problem since I am going to strip the engine all the way down and will have a chance to clean it as I go?
Now, if you are going to let this block sit over in a corner for a year or so, maybe you should not fill it up with water or Simple Green (I don't think kerosene will hurt, it's greasy enough that it actually will give some protection) and let it just sit. Rust might form somewhere that might cause a problem.
I'm actually wondering why you are worried about this? Just take it apart. I think most machine shops will run it thru a de-greasing vat before they start the boring, etc machining.....
If the block and head need machine work, these parts are going to get "hot-tanked" anyway by the machine shop.
Cleanliness is of primary importance to a successful rebuild, not only because of dirt contamination, but because you can SEE if there are defects that need attention. Some little cracks or stresses are very subtle and on some pile of greased-up metal, you'll never see them.
Also carefully examine all the bolts, nuts and studs that you remove and replace or repair them as necessary.
Even though this is an old car you should have no trouble finding all the parts you need. There is a pretty good aftermarket for most British sportscars.
This is a very simple engine and a good one for your first job. Be sure to find a reliable machine shop to assist you and don't "cheap out" on any internal engine parts.
ABS light very seldom (or every) should have anything to do with needing brakes.
There are a number of things that are checked by the ABS system that could turn on the ABS error light, but one of the common things is when the computer detects that it isn't receiving the signal from one of the sensors. One of the things you could check, is whether each of the sensors looked like it is mounted correctly, and the connectors are tight.
A dealership can check those (and the rest of the ABS system) by hooking up a service computer to the vehicle computer......and testing each of the ABS system compenents. You should really consider having the dealership properly diagnose the problem, as opposed to randomly replacing brake parts.