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Oldsmobile Aurora: Modifications
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Comments
So.....,
I have seen through some picture links of clear or color matching floor mats that look to be vinyl/rubber. Where did you guys buy these? Online would be good. I'm looking for some this week, as someone put in replacement ones that look horrible.
Thanks a lot-
Greg
'96 Aurora
As far as I know, Auroras do not have subwoofers (except perhaps for the Bose option). I toyed with the idea of swapping in a Bose system, but decided against it because of the very significant differences. An after-market sub like Bazooka can be fitted fairly easily in the front of the trunk.
Salvage yards are good places to search for all the parts you are asking about. However, I have not been able to find many Auroras there. I think Auroras are still relatively new and high enough value that they are being repaired instead of junked. Plus they are likely driven more conservatively than many lower-priced cars. Plus there were fewer than 200,000 Classics manufactured.
You may want to consider acquiring a parts manual that will give you part numbers for items you need. Then you can buy from GM dealers or the on-line discount suppliers.
Will the 01k+ steering wheels if my 95? The new wheels are a lot better IMO. The AC/Rad. controls are exactly the same, so that's not a prob. The air bag? Well, if the Roara goes, I go to (J/K).
As far as the tans, they seem pretty close.
The only problem might be the way the wheel interfaces with the cover. Also, I dont know if the 01k+s have the coil thing on shaft either.
So does that mean that those controls will fit the Classic Aurora, I have looked at them before, but to me that housing looked a little different, to just screw it on to the Classic.
Javi
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
I dont think housing will matter. What might is that the 01k+s have a plastic piece on the back of the wheel itself. I haven't been able to tell from the pics if it comes flush with the wheel or bulges out. I'm pretty sure they both use the same shaft.
I don't know if anyone has a spare 01+ wheel? :-D
The Automobile Club de L'Ouest (ACO) rules that govern the 24 Hours of Le Mans and the American Le Mans Series (ALMS) achieve performance parity among different types and sizes of engines by specifying inlet air restrictors and maximum turbocharger boost. Under the ACO formula, the 4.0-liter Northstar V8 is limited to 1500 millibars absolute manifold pressure (equivalent to 7.5 psi boost pressure) and its air intake is regulated by two 32.4mm (1.28-inch) diameter orifices.
"The ACO regulations do a very good job of producing equivalency between naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines with a variety of displacements," Keating said. "However, turbocharged V8 engines have enjoyed great success at Le Mans in recent years, and the architecture of both the PRODUCTION Northstar V8 and its racing derivatives is well suited to this particular configuration.
Ran across this old article about the LMP team 4.0 Northstar used by Cadillac in 2002. I thought the last sentence was paticularly interesting.
http://media.gm.com/news/releases/020115_engine.html
I like to see that Aurora you saw.
Javi
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/225739/10
The story is that the larger throttle body decreases performance on the Classic. You might want to search through the discussions to find the posting.
I think it was one of the tech heads on the board that posted the information.
No need for me to search -- I've been on this board over three years. I discounted that post because of Garnes' positive dynomometer results.
The change certainly has not hurt my Classic's part-throttle performance. It will be awhile before I know about WOT.
Les
Anyway, the increase in power is modest. All these things help a tad here and there. But if you put them all together it's a somewhat different car.
Oh - and since the 4.0 is essentially the same as the 4.6 and GM even increased the TB assemble to 80mm for the new northstar............Hmmmm.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- gory=33617&item=7930421352&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
Opinions?
Just bought a 2001 V6 Aurora in dang near perfect condition, beautiful car. I was shooting for the V8 but the wife wanted the fuel economy. Well I was wondering if any of you guys and girls know of companies that have modifications for the V6, the performance isn't bad but I guess I'm just a little hungry for about 75 more hp and ft lbs of torque.
Any help would be appreciated.
Tks, Ed
http://www.rsmracing.com/us/main.htm
http://www.domesticperformance.com/default.php?cPath=26_313
Javs.
I am satified with the speakers in the car, just looking for something heavier in the trunk.
Here is what I recommend (I've done everything but the Corsa):
1) Gut the airbox per Greg Garnes' instructions (search for CaddyInfo airbox mod).
2) Put a K&N panel filter in
3) Make sure you've got good plugs and wires in the vehicle. Avoid non-AC Delco as they are problematic in Northstars.
4) save your money ($1k) for a Corsa Exhaust (http://www.corsaperf.com)
If you have an "Autobahn" package Aurora (look for option code QQX on the RPO build sheet), you will have taller gearing (= faster car) and no speed limiter.
Sorry I couldn't give you better news.
--Robert
Way to stumble onto the wrong forum buddy!!!!! :shades:
I was in Delaware passing through the small town of Greenwood. I will say it was very clean, beautiful chrome aftermarket wheels, but the color was just sooooo wrong for such a beautiful piece of machinery.
Now, interesting is that in this same town I have seen a Chrysler LHS (mid-90s, IIRC), in a wild purple/teal metallic paint combo that changed color depending upon the angle you view the car from. Now that I think of it, I haven't seen that car if a few months. I wonder if the Auroro took its place???
I have a 97. Where is the IAT located? Is it the sensor mounted to the top of the air cleaner assy. or is it on the intake just before the throttle body? Thanks
......Stuart
Javi
Member
"Aurora Club Of North America"
I have a 1996 aurora. Adavane auto say they carry a replacement but it hooks to the stock lines and that wont work for me since i am not fixing the compressor. Can any one help me???
thanks bob
So with this kit you dont have to mess with putting in a new compressor also. Just put on the shocks and the manual air fill kit, fill them up and you are ready to go. compressor elimated and saves a ton of money. You just have to put the correct amount of air you want and go. You can regulate the height your self with amount of air.
Ideas like these make me wish I had my own body shop. I'd love to custom make both you and I one. Maybe i'll look around at some camaro type hoods to draw some inspiration.
:confuse:
Henri
1) Do the KYB GR-2 struts for the 95-96 Aurora work with the '97? Any mods required? There is no listing for struts for the '97 in the KYB catalog and KYB won't guarantee that the 95-96 ones will work.
2) Should I get thicker sway bars (front & rear), strut tower bars (front & rear) or both? Where can I get thicker sway bars?
3) Should I get 17" or 18" rims? Don't won't too much of a harsher ride over stock...and what tires are recommended for the larger rims?
4) Would the RSM throttle body and air induction mods make a significant difference to performance? Would gas mileage by adversely affected (reduced)?
5) Would like new double barrel chrome exhaust tips. Any suggestions? Should I get muffler and tip combination? If so, any recommendations?
6) Anyone replaced stock bulbs with PIAAs? If so, do these bulbs make a significant difference? Thinking of 9005/9006 Xtreme White Plus and 168/3156 Xtreme White bulbs.
7) Anyone have experience with tire pressure monitors? Anything out there as good as or better than SmartTire?
8) Other possible mods - Rain Tracker rain sensitive wipers, front and rear parking assist monitors, Ecliple AVN5435 Navigation with DVD/CD player and optional back up camera. Hope to keep my Aurora (now with 67K miles/108000 km) for another five years at least but sometimes I'm tempted to forego the above upgrades and replace the '97 with a 2001 or 2002 Aurora. Very interesting prices here in Canada. I've looked at a fully equipped 2002 V6 in mint condition (with ALL possible options and Diamond White color, 24K miles/39000 km and 3 year GM extended warranty) for about 18K CDN/15K US. I've also looked at a fully equipped 2002 V8 in very good condition (with Diamond White color, 58K miles/93000 km) for about 14K CDN/12K US. Sigh!
Colin Banfield
I can address some of your questions:
1) I went down the same road with KYB struts and Bilstein lowering springs. No one could tell me that the earlier parts would work with my '97. I was not willing to take the risk to find out. I replaced my struts with Monroe SensaTrac and the rear shocks with stock ACDelco air shocks.
2) I replaced my stock rear anti-sway bar with a 22mm one from 1998-2004 Cadillac STS FE3. I was not able to find a larger GM front bar. I have considered the RSM front and rear strut/shock tower bars, but they are expensive and I haven't gone for them.
3) I replaced my stock 16x7" wheels with 17x7.5 wheels from a 2001 V8 Aurora. Tires are Continental 255-50-ZR17 100W ContiExtremeContact. The Contis are great (dry, rain, snow) with good tread-life rating. One of our members, Javidogg, is running Enkei 20x8.5 wheels with 255-35-20 tires. Whatever you choose, I suggest you maintain the stock tire diameter and load rating (100).
4) I installed the RSM 80mm throttle body. No reduction in gas mileage. Some improvement in acceleration, although I have not measured it yet. Be careful of RSM and other induction add-ons. All the ones I have seen bypass the stock airbox with a cone-shaped filter. The problem is that they pick up very hot air from the engine compartment. The K&N filter and airbox mods that have been mentioned many times on this discussion are inexpensive and worth a few hp.
Biggest performance increase without spending megabucks on engine mods is lower restriction exhaust (Corsa or Flowmaster).
5) I hate chrome IMHO
8) Our Aurora Classics have unique, beautiful styling. The 2001+ Auroras are virtually indistinguishable (except for the aggressive front end) from a dozen other slab-sided sedans. The decision is yours.
Les
Hmm, the Russian cruise missile vs. the slab-sided sedan.
You decide! :confuse:
1) It would appear that KYBs are definitely not an option for the '97 Aurora. Are you happy with the SensaTracs? I've read many posts that claim that they are not as good as KYBs.
2) Will probably use the STS anti-sway bar in the rear and RSM strut tower bar in the front.
3) Wish I could find 2001-3003 Aurora rims. I'll probably end up with 18" rims and 255/45ZR18 performance tires. 20" rims are insane!!!
4) Thanks for the tip on the RSM air induction system. Will look into the airbox mod option. As far as lower restriction exhaust is concerned - I've given up on that one. Simply not enough info here or elsewhere indicating the size of piping, noise levels or even how the heck people have adapted exhaust systems to fit the Aurora. I personally called Corsa, Flowmaster & MagnaFlow. ALL have categorily stated that they do NOT carry anything for the '97 Aurora.
5) I love chrome. However, chrome may not stand out in my champagne colored Aurora.
6) I agree. I love the styling of the Classic - front and back. I was shocked when I first saw a 2001. Very basic looks for a luxury car. Great if you don't like to stand out in a crowd. Like the new instrument panel though.
Colin
You are welcome.
1) I am not unhappy with the sensatracs. They are probably not as good as the KYBs, but I have no way to compare them. I expect the sensatracs are about like the stock struts; and they are much better than my stock struts with 98,000 miles on them. I wanted something a bit "sportier," but I could not find it.
2) If you install the RSM strut tower brace, I'd be interested in your experience with it.
3) I was extremely lucky. I won an eBay auction for four 2001 Aurora 17" wheels for $202 plus $68 shipping; they were virtually perfect condition. GM list for one is about $550.
In my earlier post I forgot to mention the autobahn 3.71 final drive. If your Classic is not an autobahn, the ratio is 3.48. Several people have posted about retrofitting the lower gearing (higher numerically), but I do not know if anyone has successfully done it. The cost may be prohibitive.
Les
Just rummaged through some old posts. I'm sure that I've looked at these posts about three or four times already but now I'm interested in the Corsa cat-back system for the STS. However, I can't seem to find the mods required to mount on the classic. Can you help? Also, couldn't find the airbox mods at caddyinfo. This is what happens when you come into the forums a few years late!!
Also, any thoughts on a high flow cat converter? Do they increase emissions?
Colin
Any thoughts anyone?
My guess is that this product is no less restrictive than stock Classic with the airbox mods and K&N filter element. It would need to suck air from the same place as stock; if not, then the air will be much hotter than ambient.
Measurements I have made with my scan tool show intake air temp to be 9 to 11 degrees F. higher than DIC outside temp display when traveling at 55 mph and the coolant temp at 200. Intake air temp rises about 1 degree for every 2 degrees the coolant temp goes up. With car at rest or creeping in traffic on a hot day, I have seen the intake air temp over 170 degrees. IIRC the rule of thumb is 1% loss in power for every 10 degrees F increse in temp.
Les
Here's the link to Greg Garnes' airbox mod on caddyinfo.com:
http://caddyinfo.onedgesolutions.com/dyno/4airboxtest.htm
Greg and I were exploring the same thing at the same time. He did a nice job of getting his work published. I still want to get a better path to outside air from the front. I've tried to find a path, but have not come up with anything workable. I thought maybe removing the driver side fog light would provide a path; when I pulled it out, I found that cutting the panel behind the fog light would be required and I did not want to do that. An under-the-bumper scoop like the 1968-1969 Olds 4-4-2 W30s would work, but lessen clearance. Hood scoops might work, but I am not going to hack my hood except for something very tasteful, which I haven't seen yet.
I've reached the limit of my knowledge about exhaust mods, so I can't help you there.
Les
I'm new to this group. Got my 97 with 150,000 km last winter, now at 175,000. Replaced the plugs with AC Delco like everyone advises. Still some roughness but usually smooth and efficient on the highway (I commute 210 km). I plan to replace plug wires and maybe coils.
1. Do I have to use Delco wires, or does anything else work?
2. What are good choices for replacement coils?
3. Has anyone used the Optima R performance module available on eBay? I don't race, just looking for improved power and hopefully fuel economy at cruise.
4. My front suspension needs replacement. My goals are
- firm but not harsh shocks
- reduced roll in turns
- reduced nose-dive
What should I look for?
5. Are there steel rims available for winter tires? I'm in Canada where winter tires are a necessity and alloys may be damaged by road salt and low temperatures.
Thanks for any advice.
Dunno about steel rims. They are heavier and are worse handling than alloys. I live in Ottawa where we get a fair dump of snow, low temperatures and salt over the winter. The stock alloys on my '97 still look like new (at least on the outside). From now on these will be my winter rims with Michelin X-ICE 215/65R16 tires. For other seasons I'm getting 18" rims and performance tires.
Colin
Thanks for the suspension info. Your idea to get another set of alloys and keep one set for winter makes sense. I'll look into that.