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Comments
Peace.
Right now, I leave my wiper on Intermittent to get the headlights on and used as DLR.
Thanks,
Steve
What could cause a car to have random misfire?
Keeping my fingers crossed!
I just got my 96 Aurora with 78000 miles on it. There's some hesitation under half to full throttle as it runs its way up the rpm's. It's not smooth, and occasionally I get a knock in the engine and can feel like my car's trying to spit out something it's exhaust.
I took it to the dealer where I bought it from and they changed the fuel pressure regulator, however the problem still exists. My question is when I first got it, the first 10 gallons of gas I put in was 87 octane. I don't know if its just a coincidence the problem started after I did this. Since then though I have gone through almost a full tank full of 93 octane and just added a thing of octane booster.
Anyone ever experience something like this before or have any suggestions? Thank you for reading and look forward to any comments.
Matt
Also, I had a different car that would have hesitation under acceleration when the plug wires went bad. So maybe plugs or plug wires could be a problem. Changing them at 78k is probably a very good idea anyway if they are original. Don't try for the 100k thing. That's kind of a stretch.
Also, I recall others here having some work with the coils???? Maybe that could be it. So clean the TB and go over the ignition basically.
There are others here that have been through a lot and know the workings and maintenance of the car more than I do.
"borealis" - that is good.
Hey you Aurora gear heads - didn't Taylor have backfire problem that related to the coils??? Not sure.
Anybody else have an idea?? Coils??
Someone here mentioned that the pin is under the hood, driver's side, and maybe I was looking at a lot of things but could not find it there.
I was also under the steering wheel colum, under the dash and nothing also.
Please someone point me in the right direction.
I need to do this in order to connect a High Intensity Discharge kit that I have, I don't think it will work fine with the DRL's on, the HID kit would flicker or something, which is not a good thing.
If someone can tell me were to look I greatly appreciated.
Javier.
The DRL's are easily defeatable with no cost. On the fenderwall (I beleive the driver side near the front of the car) there is the DRL "resistor". Basically a harness plugs into this resistor in series to run the lights at lower voltage for daytime. Unplug the harness and voila, no more DRL. The regular lights are on another circuit so it won't affect them or the automatic features, etc. You just lose the DRL.
You should be aware that according to most studies they claim DRL lowers accident rates, I don't know why but they do claim this. For safety I drive w/my parking lights and fog lights on. Looks nice too.
If you can't find the resistor to unplug (it's just a black plastic U shaped thingy), let me know or check alldata...that's where I found mine.
--Sean
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So basically it's onthe fenderwall, so this mean that I have to take off the front drivers side wheel and then take off the fenderwall and look in there?
Anyone's take on this?
Javs.
--Sean
So hopefully within the next couple days I get this DLR's disable so I can get this HID kit hooked up.
Send it to me and I'll post it, send it to javidogg2002@yahoo.com.
Are you going to put HID bulbs in the stock reflector housing? If so, I'm glad I don't live near you. You'll be putting a crapload of light right in the face of everyone driving towards you. If you found projector beams that fit the classic, where'd you get them?
Hey Steve, I've no idea how to turn off the DRLs. Why do you turn the headlights on to avoid the DRL's though? Seems a bit curious... Also, don't your wipers flick when you start the car to remind you they are on? This can cause slow etching of the glass since the windshield isn't wet but is likely dusty and such.
I found that U-style connector behind the air filter box, unplugged it and bam, no more DRL's.
I plugged in the Hella HID kit, and the light out put on that thing is super nice.
As for rjs stating that there is glare and blinding on coming drivers, the beam of the 1999 Aurora is like so precise it just goes forward and not like sideways or upwards. If you have not installed or used an HID kit before you would not know the light pattern, to me it looks perfect, I managed to snap some pictures, I will post them up in a few days, so you can see the final setup.
Peace.
thanks
Is this the beginning of the "WOW these Northstars run hot" topic??
Henri
i just drove it for another 45 minutes, never got over 207 or so, but its not hot outside, not cold either
and yes, i read those posts 18 months ago back on gmforums
Using the headlights to ME looks like a well thought out design, you do notice the lights coming down the road but are not overpowering or weak looking like the normal DRL's. It give you rear tail light in the day which I think is just as important as the front DRL's without running the FOG lights. FYI- The wipers DO NOT wipe when you start the car. They act normal.
Thanks,
Best Wishes,
Steve
How much was that kit? Did you have to splice any wires, or did the connectors match up? Was it easy to mount the ballasts? I've thought about getting HID's as my car has projector beams. I'm thinking I'll try out a 9005 bulb first just to see how that looks. Maybe you can take a shot of the beam on like a wall or garage door or something at night?
Hey Steve, point taken about the DRL's. Though, if they were on the low-beams, then it would make it a lot harder to do an HID upgrade. It may be that the body control module turns them on, in which case they would be difficult to disable. They are not a legal requirement, so maybe your dealer has some info on turning them off. Also, if you just want to have the headlights on all the time, but still follow the auto control, just cover the light sensor. Then they will always be on, but will shut off with the car, and no risk of the wipers flipping on when the windshield isn't wet.
SilverStar halogen's color temperature is a white hot 4,000K, which is higher than other halogens on the road and comparable to High Intensity Discharge headlights.
The HID's run in the 5000 to 5300K range with average daylight running at 5400-5500K.
Also, I leave the wipers in the ON position for the automatic sensing of moisture and wiping on the windshield. That means my wife never has to mess with the wiper controls or headlights which she likes very much. I change my wiper blade inserts every year in October with ANCO. There is one model number that works well on the Aurora. I learnded this by trial and error. The consumer reports said they were a Best Buy in cost and performance.
Where exactly is the light sensor you are talking about?
Thanks,
Steve
My request is that folks try to post their pictures on the phot gallery thread. I ask for two reasons.
The first being is that is why I thought we started that discussion. The Seocnd, and more important reason is that so we all know where to go for pictures. Recently I was looking for the picture of the "champaine" classic with the 2001 wheels. I looked on the photo board and voila!
Later, if I look for Javi's pictures of his headlight mod, I will probably not remember the pics are on this thread.
My 1st stop would be the photos thread
2nd stop modifications thread
3rd stop main Aurora board
4th stop - I didn't want to look at those pictures anyway.
Just a suggestion and a request.
Thanks guys.
How much was that kit? Did you have to splice any wires, or did the connectors match up? Was it easy to mount the ballasts? I've thought about getting HID's as my car has projector beams. I'm thinking I'll try out a 9005 bulb first just to see how that looks. Maybe you can take a shot of the beam on like a wall or garage door or something at night?
_________________________________________________
Well my HID kit is an original HELLA brand Made In Germany and not those cheap imitation brands that are made in Japan, so this type of kit usually runs like $500.00 and up, I got it at a good price from this place on the net, the only problem is that the place were I got it has somewhat of a hard time keeping them in-stock, but other than that it's a good kit, as you all know Hella makes the Philips HID kit found on many BMW's and Audi's vehicles out there today.
As for the installation, man it was a breeze, everything matches up, a true plug and play kit, no splicing of wires at all, all you have to do is order the size that your Aurora vehicle has in my case is a 9006 and that's it, but they do sell the other sizes 9007, 9005, 9004, H4, H3.
The kit comes with everything you are probably going to need. just take it out of the box and plug it up.
As you all know our Aurora's have the air filter box almost right behind the left headlight, so the only major job that I had to do was to remove the whole housing for the air filter to get to the lightbulb and connect the Xenon bulb.
RJS you have a 2002 Aurora with the projectors headlights, I know an HID kit would go perfect with your Aurora, having projectors for regular driving has it's advantages, projector beams cut through rain, snow and fog better than regular headlights, so imagine adding an HID kit?
Hopefully you get one, I like to se a new generation Aurora with some on, trust me you'll love it.
Javier.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Peace.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Peace.
Hey Javi, thanks for the info. I'm on the fence about the HIDs. I think the extra wattage of the 9005 bulb would be worth trying first as it would cost about $20 for some nice XtraVisions or something.
Steve, the SilverStars seem neat, but they have a short life, and similar light output to the XtraVisions, plus cost a bit more. I'm more interested in getting more actual light out, and not so much in the color of it. I might give them a try, though. Advance Auto is the local Sylvania carrier, but for some idiotic reason they have every bulb imaginable except for the 9005 and 9006.
Also I think your right about the picture posting here, since it began as a "Problem" and needed a "Solution" on how to disable the DRL's.
I guess some people are more sensitive or bother easily, who knows.
Hey also keep in mind that an HID kit only draws 35 watts versus the standard 55 watt or even sometimes the 100 watt high-performance lighting like them other lightbulb brands (PIAA, Nokya, Hybrid).
Peace.
http://www.sylvania.com/bin/carApp/carApp_ver2.pl?flag=model_qual- - s&make=&make=Oldsmobile&year=&year=2002&model- - =Aurora&x=21&y=8#1
I had the same problem as you are experiencing in finding a store that has the halogen, I went to the AutoZone here in town and found one that carried the full line of Sylvania. You just have to check around. I do not feel these halogen are short lived, not any more than any other halogen and I would rather be replacing a lower price halogen that an expensive one HID.
You do get actual more light as the Kelvin temp. goes up. It works hand in hand with output. The Kelvin scale starts with absolute zero.(darkness). In measurement Kelvin(color temp), the light itself has no heat, it is just a measurement of its color temperature which is unlike the Fahrenheit and Celsius scales.
A lot of the HID's are between 5600K (daylight) and 6200K (Sunlight)which is very, very bright. A skylight(spotlite) would be in the 10,000K range. That is why I decided to use the 4000K halogen, to get better lite and not overpower other drivers.
We all have seen how bright the HID lites are and it is unpleasant to ME to have the HID headlights approaching, shining, even blinding in your face as you are trying to drive your car.
Thanks,
Steve
HID's tend to put out about 3000 lumens, though often the 6-7000K+ ones put out less. In contrast, the 9005 Hi-beams on our cars put out about 1700 lumens, and the low beam 9006 put out about 1000. This is why I'd like to try a 9005 first, as it is about 70% more light, and only 10 more watts of draw. Plus, it's cheap if it sucks.
Javi, the low current draw is definitly a plus of HIDs. I am pretty interested, but the cost is what keeps me on the fence. Also, my projector beams won't have the even light-field of OEM HIDs. The design of the projector is different. With 1/3rd the light, halogen projectors have a strong central beam, and weaker fill around it. HIDs tend to have even light all around (as they have enough light to do this). So HID bulbs would result in a pretty bright central beam. I'll see how I like the 9005's first. Maybe that'll do it for me and I'll save a few bucks. But HIDs are pretty cool and intriguing.
It seemed to be a combination of two issues. The first being ofcourse the hairline cracks in the upper housing to the radiator. Check this area for cracks as it seems to be a common problem. You will probably see a build up of fluid that is slowly seeping coolant when the car gets warm and RPMs are increased. I patched mine temporarily using some hard compound (e-mail me if you want pictures) it seems to have drastically slowed the leak but the car still seems to lose about 1OZ of coolant per hour running. No big deal in a 13+ QT system. By the way, to get to that housing you'll probably have to take off the front clip. Or just look around for small puddles of coolant after long drives. If you start seeing some then you probably have the problem.
Anyways thats the first issue I drove my car for about 5 hours the other day and lost almost a 1QT this seems to be the level it takes to throw the warning. I believe my issue arose from both that and taking a corner very sharply (when the error was displayed). Either way I wouldn't make a huge deal of it. Check the hoses clamps and Tstat housing. If the car doesnt get hotter then 220 and there are no cracks in your radiator then top off and let it go.
Around July of this year I started having AC issues, 96 Aurora. Unit cycling on and off and a temperature difference on the passenger vents vs. the drivers vents. Cool air on the passenger and outside air on the drivers side. Checked all the lines and found a loose fitting. I then Checked it with a pressure gauge and was getting low pressure. Added freon to about 30-35 psi as was recommended in another forum. Also performed the battery disconnect trick to synch any vent motors that were not properly opening. System worked ok, not great for about two months. I did not use it until last week when temperature out west went up, and low and behold no cold air. Compressor cycled on and off. Placed a gauge on the system and it read about 130 psi. immediately recovered the excessive freon and dropped it back down to 30 psi. The line on the low pressure side is cool, not frosty, however there is no cold air blowing through the vents.
How can you tell if the compressor is actually bad or if its something else. As I mentioned the compressor cycles on and off when the AC is on.
I had three compressors replaced when the unit was under warranty and my good friend who was the west coast olds dealer rep told me the compressors were undersized for the Aurora.
Before I replace the compressor or any other items I want to thoroughly check each item, but I am not fully aware of the test to perform, and I really don't feel like getting hosed by the dealer.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
The southern Calif. areas I am looking for a mechanic are the Playa del Rey, Hollywood, or sherman Oaks Calif.
I did find a good dealer tech in Northern calif if anyone needs the name. It is in Napa, CA.
Thank you for the help.
Don
Auto Body
Brakes
Electric
Engine
Exhaust
Fuel
Interior
Oil
Paint
Steering
Suspension
Transmission
Thanks for your help!
1) Engine: because it can include fuel, exhaust, and some electrical, and sort of transmission (Maybe "Powertrain" instead).
2) Suspension: because this can sort of include brakes and steering (maybe "Body Control" or something instead)
3) Catch-all
If you are doing some other type of split or something, then I'd replace "Catch-all" with
3) Auto Body: as this can sort of include interiors, paint, glass, sunroof stuff, etc.
Just my opinion.
I am new to California.
Can anyone recommend a good dealership/repair center in the Playa del Rey or Los Angeles area ?
I am new here and I am getting a massive run around from the regular GM dealers. I had a writer tell me I needed a new transmission today.. and he hadn't even seen the car.
Also, can anyone recommend a decent place to get a smog check. Apparently, smog check is just code for "make you get repairs you don't need" out here.
I know there have to be a few good people out here. Please let me know if you know of any.
I have the Northstar engine with the 4T80E tranny
Thanks in advance
Guys, i get this problem at idle but only when its in D or R. The RPM normally sits at at 800 but it can drop suddenly to 500 for a second or so then back to 800..
I also notice that when i start the car it automatically revs out to 1000-1200 then settles down to 800 ...
If i put the car in P then the idle problem is non evident.
Any clues would be great.
Have read about the FPR, and changing the wires and plugs but the problem seems to have come on suddenly not gradually.
Thanks
I believe that when you start the aurora, it revs to find the correct idle position as every aurora I've been in does this.
Well, I'm not quite sure what you mean by "categorize". If you are going to split this discussion into 3, then I'd say one of them should be a catch-all. In that case I'd say:
1) Engine: because it can include fuel, exhaust, and some electrical, and sort of transmission (Maybe "Powertrain" instead).
2) Suspension: because this can sort of include brakes and steering (maybe "Body Control" or something instead)
3) Catch-all
If you are doing some other type of split or something, then I'd replace "Catch-all" with
3) Auto Body: as this can sort of include interiors, paint, glass, sunroof stuff, etc.
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Same as rjs200240.
Peace.
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
Personally, I dont think the discussion should be split. I think the catch all of Auto Body should be used it the discussion must be renamed.
If on the other hand, I am wrong with my reading, I vote with RJS.
Henri
Cheers
Liesis888