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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    I believe the fuel return line recall is only for the 95's as 96 and 97's are different.

    That's probably why 95's haven't been called yet.
  • greenaurora97greenaurora97 Member Posts: 4
    Hey! I'm a firsttimer here...have a 1997 Aurora, bought it two months ago with 50k miles on it. Some of the interior lights have gone out (behind the DIC, the passenger side door, etc.) and I was wondering where you can get the lights and how to replace them. Also, my sunroof has gone goofy lately. It doesn't all the way back when you press the button; you have to hit the button again to get it to go all the way back. That's not a big deal, but when you press the button to close it, it doesn't stop when it's sealed. It goes straight to being popped up, and it makes a popping/clicking sound if you hold the button down. Any help would be great!

    Jesse
  • greenaurora97greenaurora97 Member Posts: 4
    The huge piece of the dash that arches from the driver's door to the other side of the center stack is pulling away from the rest of the dash. I assume it's from warping. Looks like it could be pushed back underneath and reglued, but might be a serious job. This happen to anybody else?
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    Mine is just starting to warp itself. Where the piece you're talking about, meets the other dash piece near the windshield base. Just hoping it doesn't get worse.

    I guess if it does, I just replace it as it wasn't too complicated, or looked so, when I put my new bezel cover (the clear piece) in. It felt like there was only a few more screws or things holding it on behind the radio, probably around the vent. At the max, a 3 hr. job.
  • jay800jay800 Member Posts: 12
    99 Aurora 94,000 KM (55,000 miles)
    I am having th same problem at idle, more noticeable when the a/c is on. Fine during acceleration, exept the first second from a stand-still, then it is fine until idle.

    A few weeks ago I noticed hesitation while accelerating and decided to change the plugs and fuel press. regulator. Well the plugs were disgusting and I put in new Iridium plugs.

    At first it was like magic, this thing was flying...no hesitation and the new FPR fixed the hard starts perfectly. NOW as time goes on the idle keeps geting worse and worse, so I think I'll go back to the AC Delco plugs, but after reading your issue, it seems like the same thing? It feeels like a mis-firing cylinder like you said?

    The TAC is bouncing when I feel the mis-firing, again only during idle.

    I'll keep checking to see if there are any ideas before I bring it in...

    THX. Jay
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    There is some TSB on this on 2001 4.0s. Something about the license plate screws have to have some kind of backing or fitting on them otherwise they let water right in. Even though it won't be free, the dealer might be the best route if you aren't a DIY'er.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I am waiting to hear what the solution is for this problem. I have the issue of erratic idle also. By the way I have about 98k on the car. Are you guys around the same mileage?
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Member Posts: 207
    I would suggest putting back in the stock AC Delco plugs. These engines are very touchy when it comes to the spark plugs, wires ect.... Lots of people have had problems when using aftermatket plugs/wires. I tried Bosch before and they worked fine for a few months. Then I developed a horrible misfire. Took it to the dealer and they put back in the AC Delco plugs and the mechanic told me never put anything , but AC Delco plugs in a Northstar engine.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    On an older engine like yours, check all the "rubber" under the hood. By that I mean the pvc fittings and any other rubber elbows. The heat our engine makes does a number on them. I found both pvc elbows were cracked, the one the PVC connects to as well as the one to the intake and whatever that thing on top of the TB is (any ideas?).
  • jay800jay800 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks, I will put AC Delco plugs back in.

    Also, when the car is idling in park or neutral, the problem is alsmost non-existant. As soon as I slide it into drive (especially when the air is on)it misfires terribly until I move.

    I'll let you know how it reacts with the AC plugs back in.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I have been told that my issue is the ignition control module (ICM). The rough idle for a car of my year and mileage is not unheard of. I just dont get the connection between the idle and the ignition control module. I guess that why I am an accountant.
  • samtsamt Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had a problem with the back windows? mine have dropped about 4 inches and will not retract back up. wonder if anyone else has had this problem.
  • ethinkethink Member Posts: 32
    I recently received a new GM NorthStar engine for my 1996 Aurora. Here is what happened:

    The engine started to leak oil on my garage floor at 88,000 miles. Prior to this, I had never had an oil leak that showed up on my garage floor.

    I had the service department at my dealership (Curran Cadillac, Westport, CT) check the engine for leaks. The finding was leaks on the block at the cylinder heads as well as the bottom of the block. A common problem for the NorthStar engine.

    The Service Manager recommended that I replace the engine seals to correct the problem. This seemed like a good idea; since I had an extended warranty and this repair would "only" cost me a $100 deductible.

    The repair was done using Time-serts for the aluminum heads and block. This is a recommended, BUT NOT GM required service procedure.
    Unfortunately, the Time-sert repair did NOT last beyond 500 miles due to "brittleness" of the original block. This seems to be a problem with NorthStar block from the 1996 timeframe.

    The Service Manager at the dealership worked very hard on my behalf to arrange with GM GoodWrench Service to replace the engine. The rational was that the car had always been maintained by the factory schedule and serviced at the dealership.

    It took about (4) weeks, but I did end up with a new GM GoodWrench Northstar Engine with a 12,000 mile warranty.
  • jay800jay800 Member Posts: 12
    Well I put the AC Delco plugs back in – man these were just as expensive as the iridium….

    The car is now idling as it should. Good lesson - stay away from the after market plugs, particularly the iridium. Even the parts-store guy said they have discontinued their iridium plugs due to issues like mine.

    I checked the gap on the outbound iridium plugs, and they were all roughly .010 too wide, and I only had to adjust a couple of the AC Delco’s to the .050 gap.

    All good for now……except the $200.00 worth of plugs I’ve purchased in the last 4 weeks. Not sure if I can take the iridium plugs back to Canadian Tire…..
  • sephrothsephroth Member Posts: 15
    After Hurricane Charley (lucky a tree did not fall on my Aurora) I think some water may have gotten into the engine. I starting my car the day after the hurricane and the parking lights and dashboard lights started turning on and off very quickly. The noise from the dashboard is a clicking sound just like the sound the twilight sentinal makes when activated. I have turned the twilight sentinal off but the vehicle still flickers the lights on and off. Even when I walk away from the car hours later you can see the rear lights still flickering on and off. I pulled the parking lights fuse out of the rear seat panel. So now I am unable to drive the car at night. Any suggestions? I was looking for the fuse for the twilight sentinal to see if that would take care of the problem but I could not find it. Does anyone know where it is located?
  • sephrothsephroth Member Posts: 15
    Get this...after replacing the clyinder 7 plug and the pvc valce the car was fine for 2 weeks and now again I have the same problem however no misfiring codes are showing up. Maybe the MAF sensor as suggested by a guy at autozone?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    It's your multifunction switch. It has too much grease. I found a detailed writeup on another board - Google for this, or pester me in a day or so and I'll try to find the writeup for you...
  • jlhartnettjlhartnett Member Posts: 12
    Yep..the multifunction switch on the steering column is the culprit. My 95 classic did the same thing and so did lots of other Aurora's. But would GM acknowledge a problem when they can charge $500 or more to replace....no way!

    Headlights and other lights flash on and off even with the car shut off and noone near it. I have heard about the grease theory but my dealer denied grease was the cause when I asked him about it. So I paid the money like all the other easy touches that GM has lined up.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Oldsmobile Aurora multifunction switch grease

    For me, it's the second search result.
  • 01wht3501wht35 Member Posts: 8
    I have the same issue. Could be sunroof? My windscreen broke recently on one side and I have to push the windscreen down and hold it when I close roof. I also suspect that the door seals are poor. I have twice had water in my doors. Going to dealer as soon as they get up and running after Charley (Arcadia DLR). I also had leak in trunk when I purchased car. DLR fix liscense plate seal at no cost. This roof leak is a problem. I have H2O that POURS out of the sunroof/homelink controls and down the windshield and back window. Just another of the MANY problems I have with this car. I have had 10+ GMs and this may be my LAST. I really did love this car but like the SLS, it gives me too much trouble!!! I will let you know what I find out with the leak. mrc
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    could be that the drain lines are clogged. Especially if you live in a leafy area or park the car outside a lot. No sunroof seals perfectly, but they have drains to remove any water that gets in. If they clog up, it will come in the car.
  • sephrothsephroth Member Posts: 15
    Let me know if you get any solution since it is occuring again eventhough I have replaced the cylinder 7 spark plug and it ran fine for 2 weeks and now hesitating again.
  • musheymushey Member Posts: 2
    Can someone tell me on the plastic intake manifold what the vacuume controlled door is for apposite the air inlet on pass side. I had an engine fire and the door is warped and leaking vacuume and I want to know if I can seal it closed Thanks Kenny hot64goat@yahoo.com
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    I really dont know what you mean by vaccum control door. Do you mean the flap in the wheelwell?

    BTW I love that name :D
  • fredf1fredf1 Member Posts: 2
    can anyone tell me if the idle learn procedure is the same for the 95 and 98? i found the procedure for the 95 aurora in past posts but i dont know if it is the same for both models.
    thanks in advance.
  • fredf1fredf1 Member Posts: 2
    it is a fuel pressure valve. i dont know if you can seal it up , but i did just replace mine the other day. it was only $30 for the part from gm. i think it acts as a backfire pop-off valve so the manifold doesnt get damaged.
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    the drain lines you are talking about for the sunroof? I have looked and cannot find. Also, at 30000 miles, my steering is making the clunking and grinding noise. I know this is the infamous ISS lube job needed. How much is this going to run me, and do I need to take it to a dealer???
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    The erratic idle on the Aurora stopped, but the check engine light stayed on right at startup.

    The problem turned out to be the main computer in the car according to the dealer. He replaced the computer and everything is good. The trouble is that the error codes for the ICM and the crank sensor may have been in error. There may have been nothing wrong with those parts. Apparently when the computer goes bad it causes the system to spit out error codes. LIVE AND LEARN.

    This educational moment was brought to you free by Henri (but it cost me over $400.00 in potentially unnecssary repairs).
  • jay800jay800 Member Posts: 12
    Spoke to sooon......the new AC Delco pugs are better, but the hesitation has resurfaced....

    Two other postings suggest either the Ignition Control Module and the MAF Sensor(whatever that is)

    I'll see what these parts involve cost-wise and perhaps I'll keep going before bringing it to the dealer.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    Henry, they replaced the computer for free, or how much did that run you?
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    They like me. They really like me.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    darn, what line did you have to use for that? lol
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    They charged me $370 plus tax for the computer and installation. I think I have personally put a new room on the dealer's house with all of my car repairs.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    Hey fellas,

    My 95 has developed a rough idle. I put my scanner to it and it says code 46 which says right to left fuel out of balance. I put in new spark plugs and new wires. I also wiped a lot of carbon from throttle body. This has not done anything. Any suggestions?
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Member Posts: 207
    Probably an O2 sensor. Good thing is you have a 95 so there are only two. One on each manifold.

    You can get them form any of the ACDelco wholesalers for under $50 a piece. Not too hard to install either.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    Okay went to library and checked out the Mitchell book for GM. It says if you have engine problems like misfires or rough idle, check gas flow, ignition system or see if spark plugs are okay. If it has no misfire, then replace O2 sensors. I am going to replace fuel filter and pcv valve just for the heck of it. If that don't help then O2's will be next.
  • maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good afternoon,

    I am trying to remove the tensioner for the serpentine belt. I reviewed post #1492 which says:
    "On my '97 I had to remove the tensioner to get clearance to remove and replace the belt. It was easy to do as the tensioner is held in place by the two threaded studs to which the cover is attached. BTW, my cover is steel; interesting that yours is plastic. There is no tension adjustment to make as the tensioner takes care of that."

    As I examine the tensioner for removal, I cannto find these two threaded studs. Can anyoen elaborate on their location?

    My serpentine belt snapped after 9 months, so I am replacing it again, but this time, I want to replace the tensioner pulley (got an OEM one from NAPA) and the water pump belt.

    Thanks!
    Maytag
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Maytag,

    Post 1492 is mine. It is about the water pump belt, not the serpentine accessory belt.

    There are posts with photos stating that the engine must be pulled in order to replace the serpentine belt tensioner. Let us know what you find out as I want to do that too (but not pulling the engine).

    How did you buy an OEM tensioner at NAPA?

    Les
  • garnes1garnes1 Member Posts: 33
    First real problem with my 98:

    Got home today, turned the car off, but the lights wouldn't go off as usual - they just flickered like crazy with a weird droning noise from the dash. I had to turn the car on and off a few times for the possessed lights to quit the goofy show.

    What is it?
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    Received recall notice for my 95 thursday. I had fuel rail done a couple of years ago when it broke on me, but Olds did not replace it with stainless steel. Also the notice mentioned that you should get steel fuel lines for the chassis. Does this mean from the gas tank?

    Greg
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    This is your multifunction switch (on the left side of the steering wheel - turn signals, cruise control, et. al.). There's too much grease in the switch - needs to be taken out and cleaned. There are detailed instructions on how to do this elsewhere on the 'net on an automotive forum - use Google to search for "Oldsmobile Aurora" and "multifunction switch".

    If you can't find it, drop me an email and I'll send you the link (can't post it here because it's considered a competitive site to Edmunds and they'll delete my post).

    --Robert
    driving his Aurora because his rear suspension is busted in his new GTO :-(
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Hey Greg, sounds like your first real issue isn't really a big issue at all. I recall a lot of folks having that excessive grease problem. What a strange thing for grease to cause. :)

    Robert, what happened to the goat?
  • garnes1garnes1 Member Posts: 33
    Well, I don't know. I will try to get a look at it, but I did some looking around like Robert said and the grease isn't always the culprit. Sometimes the darn headlamp switch or multifunction switch or whatever is just bad. It's expensive too.

    I have it scheduled to go in on Monday anyway for some maintenance stuff. If I can't figure it out, I'll just have to pay. I don't have a spare moment to jerk around with the car.

    I'm guessing this switch might be accessible under the dash - by taking the cover off that's under the steering column??? I've had it off before - that's easy. Maybe I'll find something.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I had the problem with my '97. I had the switch replaced under warranty; I remember the part was about $400. It may well have been the excess grease problem, but it was not my concern.

    I found that the battery could be completely drained, so I found a fuse under the rear seat to disable the flashing. Part of the problem was that it was intermittent. I was lucky to get it to the dealer while the problem was active; I had about 300 miles left on the warranty. Good luck.

    Les
  • pmontgomerypmontgomery Member Posts: 3
    Weird thing happened. I changed out the struts on the front of my 95', and now the back acts as if it has no shocks at all? (bouncy, bouncy) It also appears that the load control isn't working right. Before I worked on it everytime you got in the car the air would kick on and pump up the rear shocks. Now it doesn't seem to do this. Could I have messed up the sensor when I jacked up the front end of the car? Has anyone else run into this?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    "Robert, what happened to the goat?"

    Started making clunking noises from the rear end. There's a TSB for clunking in the rear under agressive acceleration, but this was just going over bumps (me? accelerate aggressively? :-)

    Even though the TSB came out in April and my car was built in May, after the VIN break, dealership says this is the problem. Unfortunately, parts are on backorder for several days. I declined the offered Sunfire rental :-)

    Bummed,

    --Robert
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    My sister was getting her car repaired and got a Cavalier as a rental. I took great pleasure in teasing her about the car. Of course less than 2 days later the aROARa went to the shop and I went to Enterprise to get a rental. Well the only thing they had left was . . . . . (you guessed it).

    You just can't go from a performance car to a Cavalier (Sunfire - a Cavalier by any other name). I mean I got dusted by a minivan while driving the Cavalier. It does not get any worse than that.
  • maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Les,

    It sounds like there is a separate tensioner for the water pump belt that I was not aware of. I guess I will have to locate that water pump belt tensioner. I misunderstood that to replace the water pump belt, you had to remove the serpentine belt tensioner, when in fact, it appears the water pump belt has its own tensioner, and *that* is what must be removed.

    The serpentine belt tensioner pulley was thought to be binding up, in that when you spin it, it will only spin about 1/4 turn on its own. It was thought that this was an indication that the serpentine belt pulley was not in good shape. So at Napa, I was able to buy a new pulley to install on my existing serpentine belt tensioner. Not that I can get that off, and now I know why - if the motor must come out to remove it! Napa said they also had the complete serpentine tensioner available that can be ordered for $72 or so.

    It sounds like I will have to locate the water pump belt tensioner, remove the two threaded studs and swap that belt before the inevitable happens. Any suggestions on where I should look for the water pump belt tensioner?

    Thanks!
    Maytag
  • pmontgomerypmontgomery Member Posts: 3
    Its underneath a black cover right above the water pump. Very easy to get to. Its on the opposite end of the motor, it isn't with the 'main'serpentine' belt. A pulley comes off the end of the overhear cam that truns the water pump. Just look right on top of the motor right at the end of the valve cover. Can't miss it! Let me know if you need further help. I've had to replace the tensioner, belt, pulley and water pump on mine!!!
  • garnes1garnes1 Member Posts: 33
    I had the dealer do a flush and refill while there. They say that they just put the dexcool in and that's it. I asked about any additive to the coolant and they say there is none.

    I think I remember some talk about GM requiring a certain additive to the coolant for the Aurora. If anybody knows what this is, please give me a definitive link (like GM) that I can take to the dealer.

    Part of the problem may be that the service rep hasn't a clue and can't answer technical questions. They may pre-mix the stuff into the coolant at the dealer for all I know.

    I really hate taking the car in for anything. I swear that it comes back and something else doesn't feel right. I swear they give it the Samsonite Gorilla treatment. Not worth going into...
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