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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    We all LOVE our cars here. But I think you have taken to a new level.
    :):blush:
  • kurzzkurzz Member Posts: 4
    Thank You.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Check the oil. If the oil looks the same way you're probably looking at a head gasket or cracked head.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Was thinking the same thing alcan mentioned. I've heard of head gasket problems on the '95's, due to the use of the old "green" coolant on aluminum engines. This is one of the reasons why they switched to the orange DexCool for '96 and later NorthStars, and why I wouldn't put the old green coolant in. It's also why I get my coolant flushed regularly...

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    There are a couple of ways to clean fuel injectors:

    1) Use a machine that hooks up in-line with the fuel system, and run a special fluid through the injectors
    2) Use a gas supplement like Chevron's Techron (the link to the additive must have moved, here's more info from a link talking about their gas with the Techron additive already in it. I can't get that here in Wisconsin - no Chevron stations :-(

    http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/fuels/techrongas/advantage.shtml

    If you've never had it done, and/or you're having injector problems, I recommend option 1). If you've got a fairly new car, and/or you're not having any problems, I would go with option 2) (I do that on my wife's Envoy every 8k miles or so, and will do the same on my GTO - had #1 done on my Aurora last spring, and also put in the Techron).
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve.

    From http://www.americascarshow.com/glossary/Welcome.html?index=E

    "The EGR Valve is an intricate part of a car’s exhaust emission control system. Here’s what it does: the valve is used to introduce exhaust gases into the intake manifold air stream. By using this procedure of readmitting a small amount of exhaust stream into the engine’s combustion chamber, peak combustion chambers are reduced and so are engine emissions. EGR Valves are very touchy because of the very nature of their design and function, feeding exhaust gas back into the engine and are therefore susceptible to clogging up from carbon deposit buildup. This is why it’s so important to keep your engine in tiptop operating condition so that the engine runs clean resulting in a clean EGR Valve and system."

    May be time to try to clean up the intake/throttle body (butterfly valve)/EGR valve with some intake cleaner (don't use carburator cleaner) and see if things are any better...

    --Robert
  • alonzohamalonzoham Member Posts: 2
    I checked the oil and transmission fluid and they are normal.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I'd get the coolant flushed, and put Dex-Cool in it, especially if you don't know the maintenance history. Maybe someone mixed anti-freeze types, or somehow put something else in. Flush, then monitor. If the new stuff starts to change color/you keep getting low coolant warnings (check the coolant level daily - a little air in the system the first couple of days after the flush is not uncommon), then Houston, you have a problem.

    Any puddles under the car? (I had a water pump leak intermittently until it seized - thankfully under warranty).

    --Robert
  • auroraloanauroraloan Member Posts: 1
    How do I remove the passenger side door panel on an 02 Aurora? I have a terrible squeaking noise and it's driving me nuts? I've read you just lift up, you loosen some screws that I don't see...anyone have the correct answer? :mad:
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Well, I can't post a link to door panel removal instructions. So I will mention that I'm sure such information exists on the web. There's probably some kind of club for auroras in north america that could tell you how to remove a door panel. Good luck with it!
  • aurora1999aurora1999 Member Posts: 6
    I stopped by a shop in my town and the mechanic said that there was a gm defect reported that the torque converter, was bad and something that if you have a green dot on it GM has to replace that part. Have you heard anything about that?? I tried looking for it but I can not seem to find that defect.. The guy said that he had some record of the defect he just could not find it.
    However I was told that the EGR would bring up a code and it has not yet, so I'll go and have this guy look it over.

    Thanks
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    I have a 96 Aurora and the rear view mirror is very loose and shakes like crazy when I drive. Is there a way to tighten this up? It is not the part that glues to the windshield, it is the piece that goes onto it. It also has the autodimmer. Thanks

    paul
  • coreyb99coreyb99 Member Posts: 2
    Hello out there. Hopefully someone can help me with this problem. My 99 aurora starts hard. It will start after about 5 or 6 seconds. If it doesn't it sounds like it backfires, but when i try to start it again it will start up after about 5 more seconds of trying. When it starts black smoke comes from the tail pipe and it smells like fuel(real rich smell). The smoke only comes out when it is initially started after that it runs good. It doesn't bog down or hesitate at all. Black smoke does not come out during normal driving, but if you were to mash on the gas while driving you will get a puff of black smoke. I'm positive it's completely black smoke. Also you can hear the engine idling between 1000 and 1500 rpm(it never seems to level out). There is no check engine light. I've changed the plugs, fuel filter, I've added marvel mystery oil to my gas. Can someone help me with what is probably right in front of my face :confuse: . Thank you.
  • autobahn95autobahn95 Member Posts: 62
    Coreyb99-

    The symptoms you are describing point exactly to the fuel pressure regulator. I also had this problem about 2 years ago on my 95. It starts hard, and mine did actually stall on me once before I was able to replace the part. It's a very easy job, you just have to remove the plastic cover over the engine. The new regulator was around 50$ (if I remember correctly ) and takes a total of 10 minutes to change yourself.
    If you need more details just ask.
    good luck
    Pete
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Fuel pressure regulator (FPR). If you search previous posts, you will find many discussions about it. Replace only with ACDelco part. About $45 from internet sources, $75 or more from GM dealers.

    Les
  • coreyb99coreyb99 Member Posts: 2
    :D Wow thanks a million. It was the fuel pressure regulator. I really appreciate the feedback so quickly. I cant believe what a difference the part made. The car starts right up. :)

    Thanks Again
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    C'mon folks, anyone got an fix for this? I can't be the only one that has ever come across this. Thanks

    paul
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Today in BRooklyn the 95 starts to surge when I stop or slow down for lights (In Brooklyn a red light means "maybe I should think about stopping"). I also noticed that the car was overheating. Well I had to get it home from Brooklyn to New Jersey. This of course meant taking the car through the HOLLAND TUNNEL.

    Given my history with this car, fuel problems and the Holland Tunnel, Iwas not a happy camper. Well as soon as I got about a 10th of a mile into the tunnel the car's rpms drop. I am like I dont believe it -- INSTANT REPLAY.

    I looked again and the car had not shut-off, it had just stopped surging. For the rest of the trip on the highway the car seemed fine and I got it home with the SES light going on and off.

    From what I have researched on this board, the surgeing may be a dirty throttle body, faulty FPR or fuel pump.

    The overheating is of more concern, When I checked the coolant it was clear like there was not collant in it just water. I got the car home by turning on the heat to help cool the engine down. But now I am concerned as to why the car was overheating in the first place. It never actually got into the red, but when I opened the reserve tank the water boiled over the top. I am thinking it may be a simple thing like I need a new thermostat??

    Comments, answers, questions are appreciated.

    Henri
  • oldsmobileoldsmobile Member Posts: 1
    need to know where the starter is located on a 97 aurora
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I believe it is underneath the intake, in the "valley" of the engine, but don't know this from personal experience, sorry!

    --Robert
  • 95aurora195aurora1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem that I need help with. 95 Aurora, 141K, just like new condition. The problem is rough running and backfiring into the intake at all speeds with light throttle. This problem is intermittent however it is getting worse. Already have new plugs/wires and intake filter. EGR functions fine. The dealer is little help. Suggestions???

    Possible clue is that this happened (or was noticed) after a detailing that included an under-the-hood wash!
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Paul,

    About a year ago my '97's mirror mount dropped off the windshield. It was quite difficult to separate the wedge from the mirror bracket, but I was finally able to do it by prying with a screwdriver. I glued the wedge back in place with one of those two-part adhesive kits. Then it was time to attached the mirror bracket back onto the wedge. My service manual said to align it at the top and pull down. I was certain that the wedge would break free from the windshield again, but it held even though I had to apply considerable force, and the mirror bracket snapped into place.

    With the difficulty I had in separating the wedge from the bracket, I cannot imagine how yours came apart. If yours is built like mine, then just pull down on it to snap the bracket onto the wedge. Good luck.

    Les
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Henry,

    Re: overheating

    Your '95's coolant being clear like water is really puzzling. Have you been running orange Dex-Cool or green coolant? Could someone have flushed your cooling system and left only water? That would result in lower boiling point (212 degrees vs. 260 or so).

    Thermostat could be the problem, although I think they usually fail open and not closed. How's your water pump? Is the air path through the radiator unobstructed? Plastic bags sucked into the bottom-feeding air opening can severely restrict air flow. Another possibility is leaking head gasket.

    Les
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    My friend just had a similar problem with his 94 Silverado. It was surging/running poorly and overheating. Turned out to be a cracked block... Hopefully this doesn't apply to you, just a shot in one direction.
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Member Posts: 65
    yes.it is located underneath the intake manifold.Not a small job to replace.but because of the location starter failures are fewer because it is not exposed to the slush and grime of winter driving.Replacement..3hours
  • royce1630royce1630 Member Posts: 2
    To start, I Have searched for information on this but came up with no solution, I have searched for the following and many other terms: dic wiring, dashboard, boot up, instrument, ignition harness. etc etc.
    My problem... Today I fixed I think 4 wires between the driver door and car, the wires and problems I fixed:
    A small orange wire controling memory seats and lumbar.
    A larger orange wire controling power seat.
    A large green wire but didnt notice anything.
    A purple wire controling the rear passenger door window.
    After this was all done, the following do not work, keyless entry, instrument panel speed etc. the DIC, the temp etc. Also door lock does not work but unlock does.
    Other things is that at first the lumbar did work, and now it beeps when I press the lumbar button,...
    I have an appointment scheduled with dealer but hoping to fix... Again, I have searched and searched but came up with no solution to this,
  • royce1630royce1630 Member Posts: 2
    After looking through all the fuses I decided to do so a second time, except this time using a tester. Under the rear seat the passenger side there was a fuse, i think number 27, that was bad... visually I wouldnt have thought so. That one fuse fixed all of my problems, the DIC, the instrument panel, the temps etc etc.
  • voovishvoovish Member Posts: 3
    Be very very very careful with what you have just told me, we just finish spending $4140.00 on a repair because GM made a ring on the gas tank that is metal. It is a part that is attached to the gas tank and the fuel pump goes in there. That metal ring corroded and dirt and water got into the gas tank, the injectors got stuck wide open, therefore everything had to be replaced. We addressed this with GM and they are not willing to help us even though they are now making that part in a non corrosive material. I will be warning every Aurora owner and we will be filing a claim against GM. The more I investigate, the more I will find out I think. I just joined this website and you are the first story I read. My suggestion is for you to get your gas tank checked and make sure that part is not corroding and that dirt is not getting in your gas.
  • voovishvoovish Member Posts: 3
    Get your gas tank checked. You may have dirty fuel, we just had a $4140.00 job done because GM put a metal gasket from the fuel pump to the gas tank which corroded and dirt and water got into the gas, fuel injectors got stuck etc. It all started with the car being hard to start, then an enormous amount of smoke came from the exhaust, one would have thought the car was on fire.

    All i can say is get that part checked, it may save you thousands. We have a 95 Aurora.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    voovish,

    Welcome to the Aurora board!

    I don't understand this. How did dirt and water get into the fuel tank because the retaining ring corroded? Was the fuel pump replaced? If so, the mechanic who replaced it should have cleaned the area around the tank opening before removing the ring and pump. No matter what the material of the ring, there will be some dirt, sand, etc. from the road. Where did the water come from? Why didn't the fuel filter catch the dirt? The sock on the fuel pickup should have blocked water. Something dosn't add up here.

    Les
  • voovishvoovish Member Posts: 3
    This is what happened. Smoke started coming from the exhaust, one would have thought the car was on fire. My son did not notice the smoke (he's 17) on a 15 mile car ride the gas went from 1/2 a tank to empty. We brought the car to the dealer, he told us the reason for the smoke was the injectors were stuck open due to the dirt bla bla bla. It started out being a $2300.00 repair, by the time they were done it was $4140.00. We all of a sudden needed a new fuel tank, fuel pump i think, (i don't have the bill right in front of me). We had no choice but to get the car fixed but we feel violated by someone....we took care of that car like it was our baby and it's hard for us to accept this. Any advice/help/opinions we get will be greatly greatly appreciated.
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Member Posts: 65
    It sounds to me as though you "may" have been sold a bill of goods by the dealer.As a previous poster noted"it does not ad up" as the fual filter or the sock on the bottom of the fuel pump in the gas tank should have caught any dirt or contaminents in the gas tank.The only other possibility that I can think of is someone did contaminate the gas tank "sugar"..which may have gummed up your injectors.
  • tom47tom47 Member Posts: 1
    recently had my 98 aurora tuned up .car has 109,000 miles.the problem is,after it was tuned up,when you shift from park to drive , or reverse, or if the car is idling at a stop sign ,the tack will rev up to 2 then the car will stall, any help is appreciated
  • mcleodusamcleodusa Member Posts: 1
    hi.... my ABS and TRACTION light came on and i want to know what you did to fix them. thats if u did fix it. and how much it money it took. my car is a 96
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Probably a wheel speed sensor/hub assembly. Directions to replace it here:

    http://www.howardm.net/dred98/underhood.php
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    The solution to the surge. I had cracked the air intake manifold$$. Car is back to normal.

    Since I have had the cooling system flushed and new coolant put in, do I now need to go and get the walnut shell tablets? Or do you only do the tablets when you change the radiator??
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Henry,

    How did you crack the intake manifold? Is Brooklyn that bad? Was that the cause of your overheating, too?

    I think the walnut shell tablets are more for block, heads, etc. than radiator. I would add them. Did you use Dex-Cool?

    Les
  • daytchdaytch Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Oldsmobile Aurora that I inhertided after it had been sitting for three years. The vehicle was performing exactly the way you described your Aurora. In park, the engine seems to idle okay with just a little roughness. However, when I put it in drive, the engine shakes as if it will stall. The overall power of the engine seems greatly diminished but the vehicle keeps up with traffic. When I stop at lights, the engines idles rough and the car seems to want to surge forward. I have to hold my foot on the brakes to keep the car still.

    Since our auto symptoms seem so similar, I would like to know what you like was actually causing the problem rather than try to fit it by trial and error, as I don't have much money. Your last message suggested that new spark plug wires fixed the problem. Your input would be greatly appreciated.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...coil pack(s)...
  • spcsspcs Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Aurora with a heater/ac problem. The car set for a couple of months this winter and now when the car gets up to operating temperature I get nothing but hot air with the AC on. I have been told it probably is a problem with the blend door. Any info on this problem and how difficult is it to repair?
    Thanks
  • kingpenkingpen Member Posts: 1
    My RW Def didn't work the entire winter season.The button was stuck in the on position. I removed the panel, discovered the button was misaligned with the microswitch on the circuit board. Removing the button and reinstalling it fixed the alignment.
  • snarebreakersnarebreaker Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 1997 Aurora. At first it would go down and I couldn't get it up, and then when I got it up it wouldn't go down. I took it to Kidwell Electrical and they said a wire had broken and they had to replace the switch. It only cost me 100.00, this was pretty cheap to me considering I have had to buy other parts and they are not cheap.
  • snarebreakersnarebreaker Member Posts: 2
    I had a tune up done in February 05. I drove the car home and 2 days later the check engine light came on and was blinking. i took it to AutoZone and they told me the #5 cylinder was misfiring. I told them I had just had a tune up and this did not happen before the tune-up. I checked the spark plugs and found out that the wire on the #5 was not snapped on. I snapped it on and the problem went away. Last week my check engine light came on and once again I took it to AutoZone. They told me the same thing as before. I have replaced the #5 spark plug and the light is still on. I parked the car when the light came on but, the other day I drove it and halfway down the street, it starts to chug just a little. The engine is not losing any power and is as quiet as ever. The car is very easy to start, and I am still getting excellent gas mileage. I don't want to drive this until I fix it. The technician at AutoZone said if it wasn't the spark plug or wire, it was probably the #5 injector. Can anyone tell me how to take my injectors out and blow them out. Also, could you send me a picture of the injectors so that I know for sure what I'm removing. I think I know, I just want to be sure. I don't have the money to pay a mechanic so I am going to try this myself. I have worked on vehicles for years, this engine is just different. I have never worked on this engine before. Oh by the way, so that you won't think I am some dumb guy, I AM A FEMALE !!! I just want to know if there is a special process or anything I have to do before I take them off. Thanks for your help guys.
  • rkasserkasse Member Posts: 1
    Hi – Just bought a ’01 Aurora and have a question about headrests. They tilt forward/backward, but don’t seem to “lock” into a position. Perhaps they are designed more for whiplash protection and not something to rest your head against…but it sure would be nice if they did both. As is, if I apply any pressure to headrest, it gives way and tilts back until it’s of no use as a head support. Is this normal? Anybody have a tip on how to adjust the headrest to overcome this?
  • cciovaccocciovacco Member Posts: 2
    I am going to replace my blower control module which controls the blower for the A/C and Heater. The part is GM PN 52470336. Can someone tell me where to find the current module so I can install the new one when in arrives from www.gmpartsdirect.com? My blower was working sometimes, then not, now it has completely stopped working. Any advise that you can give me to replace this item would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a million! Chris in Atlanta
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    So it ended up being an electrical problem?

    Javi
    Member
    "Aurora Club Of North America"
  • earthriderearthrider Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Aurora with an OBD 2 computer plug but my code reader won't link up to it and the VECI sticker does not say it is OBD 2 compliant. Does anyone know how to jump it out to read the codes from the Service Engine Soon light?

    Thanks.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Some of the '95 Auroras are OBD 1 with OBD 2 connectors.
  • ladyauroraladyaurora Member Posts: 5
    Hi:

    I am back. I wrote some time ago about my 95 Aurora V8 and I still have not been able to get this resolved. The issue is cannot keep car running at all. It will crank but will not stay running. We have replaced the fuel pump, fpr, sensors, put on computer thru no codes, changed the computer still nothing any ideas anyone. We even found a crack in the intake valve and fixed that still won't stay running. Checked for spark its there. It has been a month we are completely saddened gave the car to son he had it 5 days and has paid for insurance without a car now for a month going on the second month now any ideas would be great.
  • autobahn95autobahn95 Member Posts: 62
    Hi,
    Sorry to hear about the luck you're having with your '95. Don't give up, these cars are fantastic to own and drive. Would you be able to email me on my America Online account? You can find my address in my Edmunds profile. I would post it right here but I would get hit with more junk email.
    I would like to know the details about your situation and exactly what has been done in an attempt to fix the problem. I work on engines quite frequently on the side, and have also worked on several Auroras (including my own). I have a few ideas in mind which would help diagnose your troubles.
    Are you located anywhere near Buffalo New York?
    I can't stand the thought of an Aurora just sitting on the sidelines....... :(

    Pete
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