Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

black01aurora · January 2006

ive had the same thing happen with my car (not constantly but enough to tick me off), but the security light doesn't come on, and the car will only start after i turn the key about 6-7 times. I was looking through my owners manual and i didn't notice anything about the key having a resistor, it just said that the keyless entry is what the car uses to identify you.

:lemon:

black01aurora · January 2006

I know im beating a dead horse, but i just bought my 01 last month 57,000 miles on it, started with just the lights flickering, found out its some sort of blower motor kicking on, when my DIC is turned to the voltage it jumps from 12v to 15.5v (normally runs at 14.7) the alternator was replaced a couple months before i bought the car

:lemon:

imidazol97 · January 2006

http://www.rockauto.com/ref/ACDelco/Detail.html?15-72273.jpg

Programmer
1572273
$340

control unit
1572638
Looks like there may be two variations or it's applicable to CJ2 and U40 options both
$950
Ouch.

I'd sure diagnose and sure find a friendly recyling yard.
These both seem different than the ones I dealth with on my 98 LeSabre which is vacuum oriented. These may be the electrical type control valves.

dinny · January 2006

Hi imidazol97,

My garage is saying the part number I need is 16234403 with the CJ2 & U40 option. It looks like the unit you referenced with CJ2 & U40, but the part number is different. Do you think it cross-references?

Thanks for your in-sight.

Sean

dinny · January 2006

Hello,

I have a 1999 Aurora. I have recently noticed a slight exhaust smell in the car when I'm stationary. As soon as I drive, it goes away immediately.

Would anyone have any hints as to what this could be or has anyone also experieced this and what was the remedy?

It doesn't sound like there is any type of exhaust leak under the car (no rough or rumbling noises).

Thanks in advance....

Sean

imidazol97 · January 2006

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1356858&parttype=6848

is the link to the regular (not java) parts finder on rockauto.com

It's the last item on the page and it shows that same part number along with the other one. Don't know why two different parts numbers?

dinny · January 2006

Thanks a million!

Now I have a starting point!

Sean

hammen2 · January 2006

http://www.car-part.com can be your friend in trying to find this at junkyards across the country...

--Robert

claywell · January 2006

Hello everyone. Well found out that my coolant leak was a cracked radiator so i replaced it,now i find out that im leaking tranny fluid too. it seems to be coming from the very front driver side in my 96. Could this be a gasket problem? or something more serious than that? It seems to be leaking really bad but i have no problems with the tranny it shifts fine.any help would be appreaciated.

zerter · January 2006

Hello

I am a recent victim of the amazing 100km chrysler intrepid 2.7L engine blow up program from chrysler so I am looking at a 2001 aurora 3.5L in mint condition. Any good reason why I should not buy one of these?

blk97aurora · January 2006

Since the radiator was just replaced, I would first look at the fittings for the transaxle cooler lines. Input and output are both on driver's side.

When I replaced my radiator, I didn't tighten the top fitting enough (didn't want to strip any threads). I got a slight leak that was cured with another 1/8 turn or so of the fitting.

Les

jstsmile · January 2006

Where specifically is the alternator located in the '96 Aurora. A few shops quoted the change as a $700 fix. Is this something a person could do without taking anything out or moving anything, or does it require the assistance of machinery accessible only through a shop??? Thank you for your help!! $700 just seems like a lot! Ya know??

metalmyke · January 2006

Hello to all! I am in dire need of advice. I have been around this board for a long time and there are a lot of you have have seen a lot of the Aurora's "quirks". Those quirks, as you know, can be very expensive. Anyway, my problem is this: 97 autobahn, 140k, and wont hold coolant. Leaks like a seive from the back right of the engine. Seems simple, but wait...there is too much crap in the way for me to see EXACTLY where it is coming from. I have it close, though. On the back right of the motor (Looking from the front as you are looking at the motor) there is a aluminum wrapped line of some sort that comes from the right side of the engine and goes into the exhaust. This is wet with coolant. There are also heater hoses that go into the heater core that go into some solid lines which go back to heater hoses that I assume go into the water pump area (hard to see anything) that are wet neer the bottom of their run. Here is the end question...I have torn the coil packs and the cruise and other stuff off the top of the engine to see at least a little bit of the behind of the engine, therefore being unable to start it to see it leak...(if I could without getting coolant in my eyes while trying to manouver a mechanics mirror to see the leak). Does anyone have experience with this...please dont tell me my rear head gasket is leaking. Thanks.

metalmyke · January 2006

The Alternator is on the bottom front left of the engine. It is very difficult to get to and if you take it to a dealer they will tell you they need to drop part of the subframe to get at it...which is what happened to me at 55k (luckily still under warranty!). The bill was over $800. And, this was back in 2000. The part is expensive, and the labor in crazy expensive. Anyone out there who has replaced one themselves with a rebuild?

claywell · January 2006

Thanks Les,once again you have guided me in the right direction.That cured my problem it was the pressure line.

metalmyke · January 2006

OK..Here it is..there is a aluminum wrapped line that goes from the right side of the engine (maybe the water pump) that goes into the exhaust header. what the heck is this...it is leaking like no tommorrow. it looks like I could tighten the nut that goes to the manifold...any suggestions? Help please. By the Way..what the heck is this line? I have worked in cars for 25 years and I cant figure this one out.

metalmyke · January 2006

Make that left side of engine...sorry

maddysmom · January 2006

ok.. Im new to all this.. so any help would be great..please email me b/c i dont know ill find my way back here..
i have a 95 aurora.. with about 140k
had the car about 3-4 years and just now the past few months starting have some problems.. the latest would be that the engine coolant light came on.. it was a little low so i filled it.. then it got worse, the last day i drove it , it had to be filled twice to get me home.
it doesnt seem to be getting real hot the temp hovers at about 220 .just above or below..
my brother couldnt find any where that it was leaking on the ground etc. I did smell like burning coolant that day..
havnt driven it since. but my dad looked at it and mentioned the water pump?? any info would be greatly apreciated!
thanks

macfle01 · January 2006

hey buckdog my name is macfle01 and iam a new member to this site and its really coming in handy and what u said about the fuel rail was intresting because i just bought a 1995 oldsmobile aurora and im already having problems and im mad to. i dont no what is going on with my car when i turn on the car sometime my gages rave up with out me setting so much as one toe on the gas im young and my mom waited a long time to get me a car and im pissed to say that at this moment i regret it but its my dream car when i turn it on the rpm rev up and when i put it in gear it jerks really hard like it wants to take off no matter what gear its in even when its in park the rpms rev up with out me touching the gas do u think this could be a fuel rail related problem or do u have an idea of what it might be im really stressed out and so is my mom,ps sorry for the long post any info whould really help thanx.

2k1olds · January 2006

this is not fuel rail related. Search the forums for a "relearn" of the idle system. It involves turning the key on and off 3 times for I think 30 seconds between cycles. This has worked on my 97.

macfle01 · January 2006

MY 1995 AURORA HAS ITS PROBLEM BUT THE ONE THAT I HATE THE MOST IS MY RADIO DOESNT WORK THE TIME WILL SHOW IF U MESS WITH THE BUTTONS BUT IT WONT COME ON I MEAN NOTHING SIP NADDA ANY REASON WHY THIS WOULD BE HAPPENING PLEASE SHARE YOUR HELPFULL INFORMATION.

ramou · January 2006

This could be your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), mine went bad and made my idle go really high, you should be getting a check engine light if it's bad, as this will set off the computer, you can change it yourself, not expensive and easy to get to..good luck

eactdjraymann · January 2006

Hi, i just bought a new pair of 3157 L.E.D light bulbs for my 1995 olds.Aurora I plugged them in and the worked but when i tested out my signal to see if they blinked it just stayed solid. So in the end i had to resort back to my standard bulbs. Would anyone happen to know why this Happend or how i can fix this.?

eactdjraymann · January 2006

Hi, i just bought a new pair of 3157 L.E.D light bulbs for my 1995 olds.Aurora I plugged them in and the worked but when i tested out my signal to see if they blinked it just stayed solid. So in the end i had to resort back to my standard bulbs. Would anyone happen to know why this Happend or how i can fix this.?

blk97aurora · January 2006

My guess is that the LED 3157 does not draw enough current to activate the flasher. You might be able to find a replacement flasher that will flash with the lower current.

Les

outttatheway · January 2006

I have a 1995 Aurora with about 161K, a couple of months ago the car began to vibrate, idle roughly, get BAD gas milage, and the engine RPMs being higher than they needed to be for the acceleration. Anyways I'm pretty sure the fuel injectors need to be replaced and was wondering If anyone knows the part numbers and if they differ much from early 95's to late 95's and 96's Oh and a inexpensive place to buy them

imidazol97 · January 2006

Did you try a good injector/fuel system cleaner like Techron? Follow directions on the bottle.

The higher engine RPMs bothers me in your description. Could there be a torque converter problem?

outttatheway · January 2006

im pretty sure its the injectors it failed the emissions test.. it had almost 20 times the normal amount of carbon monoxide

march94aurora · January 2006

Don't buy the injectors yet. Want to fix it for free? Try cleaning the EGR valve. Look at this first:
http://www.howardm.net/dred98/underhood.php

silotwo · January 2006

The price you were quoted is spot on, I had the alternator replaced on my 95 a few months back after realizing it was a job I should not attempt to do myself. Suggestion, have them replace the freeze out plug in the block at the same time. I paid $700.00 for the alternator job and then 200 miles later I paid another $280.00 because the freeze out plug started to leak. The plug is directly behind the alternator so I paid labor to once again remove and re-install the alternator. Dealers typically don't think about suggesting preventive work, they'd rather make the bucks.

01aurora · January 2006

You couldn't have described my situation any more precisely. What happened to your 2001 Olds Aurora is EXACTLY what I am currently experiencing with mine.

overheating, bubbling/gurgling behind the firewall, smell of coolant, replaced crossover pipe....$$$$. I had a mechanic try a head gasket sealer treatment to no avail. Now I'm trying to figure out my next step. Did you have any luck?

I'm not so sure that replacing the head gaskets will even resolve the issue at this point. I, too, owe $$ on it.

My wallet jumps everytime I even talk about it!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

devoemma · January 2006

Recently purchased a 97' Aurora. It over heats on steep grades; needle bumping the red line. Some coolant blown out around filler cap but no "boiling". New radiator and hoses by last owner, new thermostat by me, fans run correctly. Cools quickly when pulled over and allowed to idle. Just had 100K tune-up and pressure checked coolant system which was okay. Mechanic said he can't see any reason for over-heating and seems to not believe me. Any suggestions? Again, only on steep grades which we have a number of in the Pacific NW. Thanks.

imidazol97 · January 2006

I've not driven an Aurora so I'm just thinking.

Does it over heat in 3rd gear on the grades where the engine rpms are higher and the coolant pumped faster?

You have probably checked for exhaust gases in the coolant which can be a common cause of overheating symptoms in some cars.

1995oldsaurora · January 2006

hello everyone,,came home the other night in my 95' aurora and removed the keys from the ignition.when i opened the door the chime immediately came on.diden't think much of it.2 hours latter i look out my window and all the lights on the car were still on.went back out and was able to manually turn the headlamps out with the "twilight sentinel" switch,but was unable to get all other exterior lights to turn off (had to dis-connect battery) i checked the car again the folling day in daylight and same problem.had to disconnect battery again..anyone have any ideas or information on possible cause of this problem..thanks everyone.

anita3 · January 2006

Hiya gang.. yes im back at it again with this electrical nightmare car lol Took car into shop for tune up job on it... Now that I have had the car back...when i stop the car stall's.. have taken the car back to the shop... 4x and it is still stalling. Any suggestions of what could be causing this ? Never did this before I had tune-up done

thanks
anita

devoemma · January 2006

Hellooooo Anita3,

Please let me know if you find out what the problem is! The exact same thing has happened to me. Never had a stalling problem at red lights with car in Drive until I had the 100K tune-up done and it seems to be getting worse. Initially after the tune-up it started to stall intermittently when I would pull up to a red light with the car in Drive; now it does it in Neutral sometimes as well and almost every time in Drive. Problem does not come up until the car is warmed up.

macfle01 · January 2006

HEY EVERY BODY DOES ANY ONE NO WHERE I CAN GET A GOOD DEAL ON PARTS FOR MY 95 AURORA BECAUSE MY CAR IS IN THE SHOP AS I TYPE THIS TO MY FELLOW AURORA OWNERS AND THE LABOR AND PARTS ARE HITTING MY POCKETS HARD AND THIS INFO U GIVE COULD REALLY HELP SO IF U NO ANY GOOD PLACES PLEASE HELP ME OUT I WOULD REALLY BE THANKFULL

imidazol97 · January 2006

www.rockauto.com
www.gmpartdirect.com

tjm97 · January 2006

2 things - replace the cap and be sure all undercar air deplactors and baffles are in place

bijjou4you · January 2006

I have been tracking this site to try and get to the bottom of this problem.I have a 95 aurora with 113k. I have replaced the coils, wires, spark plugs, had my tires balanced,put injector cleaner in, and changed out the fuel pressure regulator. My hesitation went away the rough idle is gone the surging at low rpms all gone. :P however a new problem has started. Anytime on acceleration my car really vibrates badly. No matter the temp. When I let off the gas the vibration goes away. I am running out of soultions to solve this problem I am hoping someone can help. P.S.Msg #803 sounds like what I am facing.

lrohde · February 2006

I own a 1998 Aurora w/Autobahn package and every available option. Put in a new transmission 2 years ago and last night it failed. The tranny will not engage at all, not in any gear. Just prior to this happening, the compass and auto dimmer on the rearview mirror went out.

Hate to sell it for parts; anyone experience something like this that didn't require another new tranny?

Also, have a problem with the sensor for the variable speed fan for the AC, the fan doesn't come on at any temp, but heat/cooling seeps in thru the vents when turned on.

Help! I love this car and don't want to part with it, but if someone can give it a good home . . . all depends on the tranny.

imidazol97 · February 2006

If your Aurora is like the H bodies, there is a modular heater blower control unit about 4"x6" on the blower box under the hood or inside accessable from under the dash. If can fail by erratic speed controlling, no speed, or "on" in some cases on P Ave and LeSabre. Advance Auto may have it.

Just curious do these have a ground connector next to parking brake left driver's foot in wall in front of door and a connector next to the driver's seat in sill between seat and door and same on the right side. Sometimes grounds can cause funny things. Moisture can cause problems with these from feet in rain and winter.

Is there a fuse for the mirrow and compass?

hammen2 · February 2006

How long before the tranny went did the mirror/compass go dark? If it wasn't long it could be an electrical problem.

Sister had a problem with her Trailblazer - tranny was slipping/shifting funny. Took it in, and noticed the lights were flickering. Bad alternator = toasted battery, screwed up the PCM and TCM. I don't know if they replaced or just reset/re-flashed, but everything was fine once the cause of the problem (electrical) was addressed.

Just a thought. I've got a loaded black '98 Autobahn with almost all options (no gold package, though I have the emblems, and no engine block heater), hovering just under 100k miles (99,358 this morning). I would hate to part with it as well...

--Robert

lrohde · February 2006

The tranny went right after the mirror/compass went dark - no rough shifting, no whining, no noise at all - just refused to kick into gear. Rolled backwards into a housing development from which it was towed to my mechanic (who knows the car well and is trustworthy.)

Service station got it to go in reverse for a short period of time after trying a new battery, but it gave out when put into drive.

Had this car detailed once a year, all other electronics I never had a problem with; had a few minor fender benders so its been repainted twice and looks brand new and still turns heads - no nicks in the bumpers, etc. - people still ask me if its a new Lexus, etc. Other than the tranny the car is in exceptional condition but I have to hesitate about putting $4000 into it for another tranny. Any ideas?

hammen2 · February 2006

I would have your mechanic verify that you don't have some kind of electrical problem.

Was your first replacement a new-in-box GM unit? Come with any kind of warranty?

I wouldn't spend $4k for trannies when you can find what you need here:

http://www.car-part.com

--Robert

lrohde · February 2006

Replacement tranny was new-in-box, with 12 month/12,000 warranty (long expired.)

Thinking of having it towed to dealer I bought it from for analysis B4 I give up on it - not that I don't trust my mechanic (rare these days to find one - he's cared lovingly for this car for 8 years now - oil change every 3,000 miles, etc.) but I figure the dealer might have better diagnostic equipment.

Just don't want to get ripped off by the dealer so I'm making it clear that if the diagnosis is a new tranny, I'm junking it, just to see what he says . . .

dtp555 · February 2006

MY REVERSE LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING I CHANGED THE BULBS ONE WAS BLOWED BUT STILL NOT WORKING

johnny34 · February 2006

I have a 1995 AURORA and its seen its fair share of service.
Transmison , new computer, water pump, EGR, FPR, grounds..the list is endless... great car.....
As of today it limped into my garage 100% undriveable;
back from the dealer with a new computer installed its stuck in 2nd gear, no TEMP gauge, no outside temp.

The car slowly died while driving on the freeway doing 70mph.
1. Simulated turning the key on and off and on.
2. Then starting flashing all the dash lights and slipping out of gear thus revving the engine.
4. Blowing smoke and stumbling and stalling.
5. Then to suddenly it ran fine as nothing happened while on the way to a parking lot.

They traced it to the computer loosing power setting various DTC's (loss of power/reset/keep alive/idle position reset etc. ) It was even loosing power setting DTS's while sitting in the garage for days. The computer is replaced and its 99% not drivable. Stuck in 2nd gear with no gauages (except speedometer)It was in better shape going to the dealer!
They say there is a shorted or pinched wire somewhere as nothing is communitaing with anything at a cost of $85.00/hour to find. We too much as I can tear stuff apart myself and fix but where do I start. I'm familiar with the pinched wire in the fuel injector sys.( stumbling & smoke )

Anyone familiar with this shorting/pinched wire problem? Maybe you might have an idea where to start looking for the loose/bad connection?

Any help would be great as its sitting in my garage, I'd hate to part out this car with so much $$$ into it. I think we all know the feeling.

Any ideas greatly appreciated!

grnhornet · February 2006

at 46k,put car in gear,car jerks into gear very hard,take to dealer- sensor in trans replaced $1,100 dollars.
at 60k stalls at trafic lights,hard start,surging,take car to pep boys,replaced fpr $287.00 dollars,80k brakes all around $150.00 and a couple of beers my brother.110k sqeaky left front wheel,replace front wheel bearings one side $500.00 dealer.at 130k car will not go past 2nd gear,hard to put car in gear via shifter,take to shop $350.00. 145k leaking anti freeze very small leak,leak gets larger(should have taken in earlier)take to shop replace radiator and water pump,$1000.00 dollars. at 165k serpitine belt brakes ,replace $100.00 and a couple of beers brother. at 166k cracked and leaking fuel rail,replaced at shop $795.00.(later replaced at dealer and reimburst at 170k) at 177k while driving on LSD in Chicage car dies out will not start, towed to shop replaced fuel pump $800.00 dollars.

grnhornet · February 2006

sorry for the long post, replaced battery 2 years ago $96.00 for the battery.

Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair