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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • jerdfxjerdfx Member Posts: 13
    Thanks Hammen, You must be talking about the blue ring behind the screen on the Fpr. I have the old one sitting here and it is rusty underneath the screen so it does look old.

    All the new parts I have fed this car it should start like a champ. It starts like a powerful V-8 should when cold.

    But like you said it acts like it's flooded when it starts to cool down.

    Weather is getting better so I can finally take a look at it. It sucked because all my mishaps had to happen in the dead of winter. I have a drive way but no garage.

    Not my cup of tea working in the snow. Have done so before but it sucks.

    Thanks Jeremy
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    Hi Jerry, I have a 98 Aurora.. I have replaced so much on that car lol Fuel Filter, FPR, Idle Air Control,new plugs, wires( tune up), had injectors cleaned.. list goes on. lol My mech. said my car didnt have the symptoms that would be brought on from EGR Valve... altho I did mention that to him a few times *because of what was posted on here * so I didnt have that replaced. The sensors that i have had replaced seem to have done it, so far.
    thanks for your input :)
    Anita
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    I didnt by chance ask my mech. what brand the FPR was.. he bought it at a local auto store. Im sure I can find out .. if u need to know the brand :)
    Anita
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    I was referring to oil pressure.. or maybe i should have said PSI ? That little information thing in my car gives that PSI of the oil ... and once the car is warmed up.. it goes down to 9-10 at a stop light/sign/or normal idle.
    Anita
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Those values for oil pressure make more sense. Since the discussion was related to FPR, you confused me using oil pressure when most would have used RPM as a reference point.
    An EGR uses a calculated postition ranging from fully closed to open. At idle it would be closed. So if you start OK, likely valve is closed as it should be at that time. After revving or running at various speeds and you come to an idle and it seems to run smoothly, and then stalls, I'd look elsewhere. That would be indicative that the valve properly closed. If it wasn't properly closing such as the valve sticking, you'd likely notice some irregularity when you first returned to idle. Other things can also cause such symptom.
    When questioning Rochester about their FPR, they admit they can't copy the original, but try to make it meet all performance specifications. Could be something not written in the GM specification, perhaps just by chance of the manufacturing process that makes theirs better.
    I've come to mistrust almost all after-market products. Even something that might seem satisfactory until you factor in all effects. Such as brake rotors, they most often have a thicker section where they meet the hub and wheel surfaces. I've seen some GM rotors using a stamped steel plate welded to the outer portion. This plate was about an 1/8". Typical after-market rotors were one piece and about 1/2" thick. Result = 3/8" offset from the original. Changing one can have untold consequences, especially if you have an alignment done. Machine will try to calculate from an untrue centerline. It works from the wheels, not the body. Also from factory specs which have now been altered. Even if your alignment man was NASCAR qualified and aware of the changes would you want him guessing at what is best for your driving habits?
    Not to say the GM engineers got it perfect everytime but they at least spent more time shooting for perfection. That perfection might be ride, handling, or even "guaranteed to wear out by date".
    Even if you change all 4 rotors with like brand, the offset difference can affect ride, handling, and wear rate of other components.
    I think it was GM that used to say, "For that new car feel, GM genuine parts."
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Of what ventured into the avenue of rant, I decided to add a little personal evidence. I had a 68 Mustang of what was the factory Hi-perf at that time. I bought used and it had different wheels on the rear. Someone altered for some reason, maybe an attempt to make rear a little stickier with the wider offset. Although this may have helped on cornering it seemed to have the opposite effect with standard springs and shocks off the line. That extra off-set made it easier for the forces of moment and inertia to induce wheel hop. NOT GOOD.
    And rotating so those were on the front made it handle badly. Could also have led to early demise of front suspension parts, upper & lower ball joints, etc.
    Lesson learned: If you intend alterations, even for performance issues, get the experts on board and expect to pay, pay, and pay.
  • gene900gene900 Member Posts: 5
    The shift knob on my 2002 Aurora has apparently worn abit internally, and wiggles from side to side as you handle it.

    1. Does anyone have a similar experience and how did you fix it?

    2. There are no obvious retainers or set screws holding it in place, can anyone give me some guidance on how to remove it?

    Thanks.
    Gene900
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Just pull it up to remove it. There are no fasteners or anything holding it on.
  • sinatra2sinatra2 Member Posts: 65
    check the coolant cap..the system is designed to run up to 18lbs of pressure. If the cap is letting out vapor at let's say 14lbs you will have an overheat indication on you temp gage.The higher pressure raises the boiling point of your coolant. make sure your Dextron mix is 50/50....more than 80 coolant will lower the boiling point as well as what an all water system would do. A cap is only about 10 bucks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    DexCool is the radiator; Dextron is the tranny fluid!

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jerdfxjerdfx Member Posts: 13
    Hey guys back again. It seems to be an ongoing issues with owning these cars.

    But the problem is anyone who has a passion for cars loves there aurora. I love mine even though it's shaving a few yrs off my life.

    Sure I could buy a faster car. But the aurora is unique and I love the way it sounds when you open it up.

    Now that I'm done aurora dreaming I can get to the point.

    My car has been having a hard time starting lately. As you can see from the above post.

    It started making a loud noise like wet belts due while trying to crank the engine. It went away as soon as the engine caught and started.

    It did this for about a week or so. Just yesterday I fiered it up. It started within 5 seconds but started really weak.

    I didn't like the way it started. I had my son with me and didn't want to chance breaking down. I shut it off. Went to fire it right back up and got nothing.

    I get just a click. Battery seems fine. Everything is strong. Like the lights and blades.

    Car also had a bad smell to it. Not like rotten eggs. I can't describe the smell. One you can't breath to long.

    In the belt area of the car. There was a bunch of redish dust over my belts and wires. I keep the engine really clean and noticed it immediately.

    I'm hoping it's just the starter, flywheel or starter motor. Or something in the area of the starter.

    I hope the timing chain is o.k. If it did break it broke at idle.

    Any ideas guys. It's a 96 with 80k. New wires plugs fuel pump module all injectors taken off and cleaned. Fuel rail recall. Both filter new fuel and oil. All fuel lines cleaned. All new break lines. And the list goes on.

    But the car is a beauty on the inside and out. It has crome and is a autobahn.

    Thanks for any help

    Jeremy
  • pearlie98pearlie98 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 98 Aurora lately I've been getting a Low Coolant Message on my DIC. It does not run hot but when I check the resevoir is low sometime and other times it is not. I took my car into the shop and they keep it over night but could not find out why the Low Coolant Message was appearing on the DIC. Please Help!!!!!!!!
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    First I would like to mention, I just purchased this 98 olds aurora over the weekend. What a great car.

    I have noticed though when I start the car up there is a high pitch noise, hissing coming from under the hood. I am thinkin maybe a vac hose... any input on this issue would be great. Also could be related when I come to a stop I am smelling something smokey in the car. Not sure about this either
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I assume you've checked the belts? There are two, one serpentine belt for almost everything (left side of the engine when you're standing in front of the car), then there's a smaller water pump belt.

    I'd go underhood and check/recheck all hoses and clamps as well... would probably behoove you to clean out the throttle body (big issue on these cars)...

    --Robert
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    Thanks Ill go ahead and check those 2 belts, look at all hoses and clamps.

    I am not sure what the throttle body is though, and how to go about cleaning it out.

    Corey
  • adamant1adamant1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Aurora with 120Km on it. I wanted to ask if anybody has had problems with tire wear on the outside of the front tires? I've been fairly consistent with keeping the air pressure up, but the wear continues. Is there something that could be wrong in the front end? Is this common? I have chrome alloys on this car. Could these be the culprit?
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    I looked at the belts, they appear in good working condition. Which and where is the vacuum hose I think it may be related to that.

    Again throttle body not sure exactly where and what to look for or how to have it cleaned out.

    Thanks in advance...
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    adamant1,

    Details, please. How many kilometers on your front tires? What brand? Have they been on the rear during that distance (rotated)? Is the wear even and same on both tires? What air pressure do you maintain? Are the tires same size as stock (235/60-16)?

    My guess from the information you have given is that what you are experiencing is either cornering wear or too much positive camber. How long has it been since the front end was aligned? The alignment specs for my '97 show -0.7 to +0.3 degrees camber; I assume your '98 is the same. Are your chrome alloys the stock wheels? If aftermarket and the size and/or offset is different from stock, I suppose that could be the problem, but I doubt it.

    I got 61,000 miles from the Continental tires (same size and model as stock) on my '97. Some cornering wear but not bad; this was from 37,000 to 98,000 miles on the odometer. I always maintained air pressure at 35 psi even though recommended is 30.

    Les
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    pearlie98,

    Is the low coolant message constant or intermittent? Have you added coolant? I have never experienced coolant level going up by itself.

    There is a switch in the surge tank that opens when the coolant level drops. That causes the PCM to turn on the message in the DIC. An open circuit anywhere in that path will cause the same effect

    If the coolant level is not actually low and the message appears, then the problem could be defective switch, corroded terminals, or broken wire. Could also be the PCM, but I recommend looking at the other alternatives first.

    If the coolant level is low, then the message should appear. Have you looked for leaking coolant? Small leaks in the radiator are often hard to spot. One can usually smell leaking ethylene glycol. Our Classics (and many/most other cars for the last 20 years) have aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks. It is very common for the end tanks to develop small cracks that begin to leak and grow with time.

    Les
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I have the chrome stockers as well, and I had some weird tire wear going on my BFG Traction T/A's... mostly the outside as well (about 20k miles, rotated every 6k, had 3 of the 4 valve stems replaced due to leaks). Replaced the front struts/rear shocks, and they are wearing more uniformly... also had an alignment following my loose rim incident on Christmas, but my most recent alignment before that was less than a year previous, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed...
  • mshuda1mshuda1 Member Posts: 6
    I just purchased a 96 Aurora , I was told it needed a transmission . I test drove it for a short ride (I had my service man (not a dealer) replace the trans with a "guaranteed" used one.
    After a test run the temperature light comes on . The mechanic (again not a dealer), said he would look at the car on Monday. The car has been off the road for a year.
    Could the warm temperature light be associated with the trans swap? (something left off, disconnected ect.). Or does the car have a conventional thermostat that may need to be replaced. IF someone could give me a list of things to have them check sequencially it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe the computer should just be swapped. What I'm reading on this site is a little scary, however probably common to most post 90's cars.
    Thanks for your help!
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    mshuda1,

    What temperature light? The owner manual for my '97 states that the Driver Information Center (DIC) will display
    "HOT...STOP ENGINE" when temperature reaches 261 degrees F.
    Is this what you see? Where is the needle on the temp gauge?

    Yes, Auroras have a thermostat; they usually fail open, not closed. Have you checked coolant level? Are there obstructions (leaves, plastic bags, etc.) blocking air flow through the radiator? The cooling fans may not have been reconnected. They should run when the ac is on, coolant level is low, or coolant temp is above 227. Check the coolant pump v-belt and tensioner. The pump is on the driver side of the engine; the belt is driven by a pulley at the end of one of the camshafts.

    Many of us have experienced our Classics coolant temp running between 200 and 220, which seems high compared to other cars but may be "normal" for our Classics.

    Was the cooling system drained when the transaxle was replaced? I have never experienced this problem myself, but I have read that air can be trapped in the cooling system. Unfortunately I don't know how to diagnose or fix this problem.

    Another frequent problem with Classics is that the lower air baffle under the front of the car is missing. Usually dragged off by a curb or steep driveway. With the baffle missing, coolant temp goes up 10 to 12 degrees at highway speeds. If you are experiencing temps at 260, then this would not be your only problem.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • pearlie98pearlie98 Member Posts: 4
    Yes I have had to add coolant at least once every three weeks for the last 2 months. I've taken it back to the dealership only thing that they could find at that time was that I needed a new radiator cap and a thermostat because I thought that my Aurora was overheating but from reading out passages running 200 is pretty normal. So I guess they got couple of hundreds for doing nothing. Now I have noticed that once I add the coolant that it seems to be coming for the underneath the reservoir that I did not have before with the old radiator cap. The dealership that I went to told me that if the repairs that were perform did not work that more than likely it could be the head gasket. But I thought if the head gasket was blown that I would have coolant in my oil and I do not. I don't know I hate to keep taking my car somewhere that they can only guess what is wrong. So this is my last resort.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    pearlie98,

    Yes, 200 is normal. The thermostat is 195, so 5 degrees off that is nothing; car gauges are not precise instruments.

    I do not understand, "Now I have noticed that once I add the coolant that it seems to be coming for the underneath the reservoir that I did not have before with the old radiator cap."

    Does this mean you are seeing coolant leaking from the bottom of the surge tank? Maybe that's your only problem. If the old cap was not holding 15 psi, then the new one will be holding the system pressure higher and perhaps forcing the leak. I always advice folks to look for the least expensive repairs first.

    Head gasket replacements are very expensive, so be sure that is indeed your problem before paying someone to do it. Maybe you should get a second opinion from another dealership or independent mechanic.

    Les
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    I am taking my 98 Aurora into the shop to get some things dianosed. Any help here would be great. I recently purchased the vehicle, it wasn't driven for 2 yrs.
    1) AC isn't cold, I assume it needs a recharge.
    2) High pitched hissing, when cold until warm.
    3) Gas smokey smell in the car when at a stop.
    4) Car shakes a bit @ 60-70mph, had a rotate and balance
    5) Turn signal noise periodically, blinker not on just the sound.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    1) Brace yourself... could be an A/C compressor
    2) A/C or defrost on when you turn on the car? Otherwise slipping/bad belts. There are 2 (normal serpentine and a smaller water pump), or maybe a pulley
    3) Fuel pressure regulator bad? Change the fuel filter!
    4) need a "road force" balance with a Hunter GSP 9700 machine or similar. Or, maybe the tires are flat-spotted/potentionally bad due to sitting for 2 years (check for dry rot)
    5) Maybe a problem with the multifunction/turn switch (a common problem area - if your headlights flash, this is it - too much grease in the switch)... or just might need a new flasher can.

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I haven't dug deeply into the slight roughness at some rpm's, smooth at idle though. I checked plugs some time back & looked OK. I gave the injectors a double dose of cleaner & car sounds better under accel and seems smoother most of time.
    Other hints are that the computer shows less fuel used than actual at pump and better mpg on computer than calculated.
    I have to wonder how fuel useage is calculated. Someone had responded it was fuel pump on time. That just doesn't sound right. Does it maybe calculate the total PWM of injectors? and adjust that for what should be the fuel pressure regulation?
    Does anyone know how quickly or if it is capable of setting fuel for each cylinder. Or is it just an average for each bank of cylinders via that banks O2 sensor?

    Also something I find very strange. Driving steady at about 50mph, TCC is locked. If I set cruise, TCC disengages and doesn't re-engage. Anyone have an idea how the cruise circuit is connected to the TCC circuit??
  • ferniefernie Member Posts: 11
    I need a diagram or an installation steps to replace it
  • joesmith21joesmith21 Member Posts: 1
    I was driving down the road today, my heater/air conditioner turns on full throttle without me touching it, and now I can't get it to turn off, even with the car not running. I pulled a few fuses by the drivers seat, but it continues to run.

    I have read through most of this board, and have seen other people with the same problem, but I could never find a solution. Please, somebody help!!!!!!!!!!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I believe there is a diagram in the engine compartment somewhere. It isn't in the usual location, like the radiator mount area if I remember.
    Also a big caution if you are replacing the pulleys. Everything should be fine if using OE, but a couple of gotcha's on aftermarket. First, those at Autozone are crap because of the seal on the bearing. (no wonder they only warranty 30 days). The ones at NAPA have a much better seal at the hub of the bearing. But still, the aftermarket is a stamped steal for the pulley. Because they are not able to stamp it with sharp right angles, this makes the pulley wider overall. I had already tore down, engine mount removed, when I saw the complication and it would have taken a week for dealer to get the OE's or a bit expensive to overnight.
    This is a very important item to me. The wider pulley when mounted in place does not leave enough clearance to replace the belt without doing the removal of engine mount and pulleys. So if you are out on the road and a belt snaps, you are looking at huge labor charges just to replace the belt!.
    You only need the thickness of the belt for clearance, and I accomplished this by moving the bearing inside the pulley. I think I layed it on a piece of wood and found a socket from my tool box that would make contact with the race of the bearing. That is the outer portion in contact with the pulley. I then carefully drove it the approximate 3/16" needed to make room. "Do not drive on any portion of the bearing" That provided a quick fix for what would have been a nasty problem down the road.

    A couple of months later Pep Boys apparently got some of the OE style pulleys in stock. When I checked, they would have had to order. You might take your old pulleys to them and try to match up if the tensioner itself is good, which it should be.

    Good Luck.
    About a year ago, the bearing on the water pump tensioner gave out. I was able to find the Delco bearing in a supply house for about $12, locally.
  • eaglesnest51eaglesnest51 Member Posts: 8
    Hi All,
    I have a '95 Aurora that is really giving me a fit lately.

    Six months ago I had a problem with it not starting at all. I had it towed to my mechanic and he changed the fuel pump, and fuel filter. Took the car home and it ran for about a week and then the same thing over again. 6 months and 6 fuel pumps, fuel tank, injectors, fuel rail, later I am still having the same problem.

    I have had this car to an Oldsmobile/Cadillac dealer (they are the ones that said the injectors were plugged up) and to two different mechanics. Yesterday, I finally got dirty myself and removed the cover from the fuel tank (inside the trunk) to gain access to the fuel pump. I wanted to check the voltage at the pump to see if it was getting power while it would not start. It was, it was getting approx 11.5 v with the key on, cranking voltage at the pump was approx 10.3. I put the plug back on while it was cranking and the engine fired and ran good for 2 days.

    I had heard different opinions about "after-market" fuel pumps not working with the Aurora's so I finally broke down and took it back to the dealer to have yet another pump installed. This time is was an OEM pump from GM. Thought this was the fix, well 10 hrs after picking it up at the dealer the same thing again.

    The funny part of this whole thing is that every time it is towed and gets to a garage the darn thing fires up and runs fine. When I had the pump cover off after checking the voltage I also tapped on the top of the fuel pump with my tire iron (tapped! not SMACKED! - lol).

    I am really at my wits end with this car I paid $4000 for it in 2002 and it has cost me well over $3000 in repair bills over the past 6 months. I have checked the wiring harness from the relay back to the pump, the relay itself, fuses, etc etc. The one thing that I keep coming back to is the fact that the steering column was replaced shortly after I bought the car and though perhaps there could be something going wrong there with the security system. The ignition switch was swapped out of the old column into the new one.

    I have changed the PCM, battery, fuses, pumps, injectors, fuel rail, relays, fuel tank, fuel filters, etc etc. I really do not know where to go from here and I really don't want to just "junk" it as it is a thing with me now, I NEED to know what the heck is wrong with this thing.

    PLEASE anybody HELP!

    Eagle
  • eaglesnest51eaglesnest51 Member Posts: 8
    I would be real interested to know if you ever found the problem. I am having a similar problem with my 95, I gave it my daughter and $2500 and 6 months later it still won't start all the time. Put it on a tow truck, tow it to the garage, by jove it starts and runs for 2 more days. Repeat the above if you want to continue driving it...LOL...

    Thanks
    Eagle :P
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    On some cars there's an automatic blower control that replaces the resistor coils on manual switching for fan speeds. The box is on the heater somewhere. On H cars it's on the blower box in the engine compartment. The item can fail in connect mode with the blower motor running. And others fail to work predictably changing speeds oddly.

    It may be on the heater box inside the car but it's cooled by the stream of air from the blower itself. Advance Auto has them for H cars, leSabre and Bonneville.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Eagle,

    All the repair attempts you report are fuel-related. However, you did not mention replacing the fuel-pressure regulator. If it is leaking, it causes the engine to flood and be hard to start. Usually not a no-start situation, however.

    Has anyone checked for spark? How about diagnostic codes?

    I'm wondering if your problem could be an intermittent ignition module or crankshaft position sensor.

    Les
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    N T,

    I have owned my '97 for 6.5 years and 91 000 miles; during that time I have kept meticulous records for fuel use. My DIC almost always reports less fuel used than is pumped into the tank. The DIC mpg is off by the same percentage. Like you, I also figure the DIC readout is calculated by accumulating injector PWM over time; I suspect there is either a problem with the PCM algorithm or assumed fuel pressure (and therefore fuel delivery) isn't correct.

    My '97 service manual shows the injectors are individually controlled by the PCM. I cannot find any timing values.

    The only connection I can see between cruise and TCC is the brake switch that is intended to turn both off when brake pedal is depressed. I don't see how that might be causing your problem.

    Les
  • eaglesnest51eaglesnest51 Member Posts: 8
    Hi Les,

    Thanks for that, yes we have checked the spark, in fact when the engine won't fire on it's own, if you spray throttle body cleaner into the throat while it is cranking it will light right up and run as long as you pour the cleaner to it. So that elimiates electrical, at least from a spark, timing, etc., position. The other thing that I didn't mention either is the fact that while it is cranking it should build pressure in the fuel rail, it does not, when you depress the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail there is no pressure at all. However when the pump is working there is plenty of pressure.

    Hmmm, yes they have checked the codes, but I can't tell you what they are at this time. As I stated it is real difficult because everytime we put it on a tow rig and take it to a shop, it starts right off while at the shop...

    Eagle
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    98 Olds Aurora
    Any advice on AC that isn't working, the shop said it was "probably" the AC compressor. They quoted me "$850" which seems high, has anyone else had this problem with the compressor going out? I wonder if there is a leak somewhere else... I would hate to spend that kind of money it isn't necessary, yet I do want AC for the summer.

    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    well the shop should "probably" test the system completely and probably come up with the right answer before spending your money. There are plenty of good diagnostic tools to pinpoint an AC leak exactly.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Eagle,

    A quote from your first post, "I wanted to check the voltage at the pump to see if it was getting power while it would not start. It was, it was getting approx 11.5 v with the key on, cranking voltage at the pump was approx 10.3. I put the plug back on while it was cranking and the engine fired and ran good for 2 days."

    I can't quite tell from your description -- did you check for voltage at the pump connector, while connected to the pump and engine cranking and not starting? Or was the connector disconnected? Either way, I am suspicious of the connector, either corroded contacts or broken wire.

    Les
  • billy17billy17 Member Posts: 1
    Same thing happened to me yesterday for the fist time. Car has 80M.
    Slamming so hard felt like driveshaft was coming htrough floor.
    Haven't started it yet today.
    Any luck finding the problem?
    Bought the car 3M ago and has riden like a dream so far until yesterday.
  • eaglesnest51eaglesnest51 Member Posts: 8
    I would check the speed sensor that is at the top of the transmission. This sensor checks the speed of the internal transmission and then allows the shift to take place. If the sensor is bad the transmission will shift arbitrarily and will result in the slamming. The good part, sensor is $45, labor to install about $400.

    Eagle
  • eaglesnest51eaglesnest51 Member Posts: 8
    Hi Les,
    I suspected the same thing and I am really baffled by this. Yes I disconnected the plug and checked the voltages that way. This time when it died, I did the same thing but no voltage at the pins. ArrrrrrrGGGGGGGG.... I am so frustrated with this.

    Eagle
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Eagle,

    You have already checked everything I have suggested so far, so I don't know if I'm a help. But I have a couple more ideas.

    I think you have eliminated everything from the pump downstream. Looking upstream (electrically) from the pump, there's ckt 120 (gray) to the relay, which you have replaced. The relay is gounded via ckt 451 (blk/wht); I have heard of Auroras having problems with intermittent grounds. Power to the relay comes from the 15-amp fuel pump fuse via ckt 1042 (red). The relay is controlled by the PCM via ckt 465 (grn/wht).

    This is where it gets interesting. You wrote in your first (IIRC) post that you suspected the security system. The PCM has a "theft deterrent fuel enable" input which comes from the Pass Key II decoder module via ckt 229 (dark blue). I don't know if this module is part of what was replaced in your steering column. Maybe the module is the problem, or a loose connection.

    Hope this helps.

    Les

    PS: the wiring info is from my '97 service manual. Your '95 Aurora may not be the same.
  • macecynmacecyn Member Posts: 4
    97 model. Already had the compressor replaced. Now is only blowing cold air out of the passenger vents. Any comments on this? Great car, but in 18 months gone thru 2 alternators and other a/c temp related issues. $$$?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Take the car to an A/C shop and make sure the system is full. May need a fill/recharge (or they never properly filled the system).
    Also, could be an HVAC controller problem (actuated doors not opening properly on the driver side)...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    If it's a vacuum system like other cars, Buick, in the GM lineup, it could be one of the actuator motors (electric) that moves the vane that controls the relative temp of driver and passenger air.

    Also read where someone had a low freon charge and only one side of the evaporator got cold and that was the side from which the air went primarily to the passenger vents.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • 01silveraurora01silveraurora Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Aurora and i'm trying to find out how to replace the bulbs in the tail light and i'm trying to find out how to replace the bulbs for the fog lights, can anyone help me out
  • macecynmacecyn Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. I got pretty much the same diagnostic from my shop tech. Funny, they seem to know me by name now and recognize the car. Checked it again last night. Now, no a/c at all, although the line after the compressor seems cold. My only regret w/ this used car (59k)is not buying the extended warranty at the dealership.
  • jojo4jojo4 Member Posts: 4
    The tail lamp should be a lot simpler than it is, but GM created something that makes absolutely no sense. Anyway first thing to do is pull back the carpet. That will expose the black nob like screws that seem to really have no purpose. This is where it gets a little tricky, you have to pull the plastic molding back to expose the three screws that free the whole lamp fixture which you can than completely pull out and change the bulb. The reason its trickey is because the plastic molding isn't made to flex the way that needed to expose the main screws. So try not to break the molding like I did, and if it gives you as much trouble as it gave me, do what I did and change all the bulbs when you finally get the fixture removed. Haven't changed the fog lamps yet. Good luck.
  • jojo4jojo4 Member Posts: 4
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