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Comments
With the price that these cars went for when they were new, You would think GM would have put a little more effort into designing these cars! :mad:
:confuse:
So before you get fustrated, check that out. I'm so thankful the dealer I got the car from didn't charge me for all the work they did. I just love my car!!!!
I do have one question. Has anyone put a car starter in a 95 Olds Aurora? I mean with the security key and all? I'm just wondering if it can be done. Thank you and good luck to all who own an Aurora. They are not all bad.
If you paid someone to fix this, I might consider taking it back to them, and either get my money back, or get them to fix it right this time!
As for the manuals, the only ones available are through a dealer, or you might get lucky on E-bay, and get a used one.
Either way, good luck! :P
Sometimes one can be found on eBay at considerably lower price.
Les
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks in advance
C
The stiffness of the chassis makes small imperfections in tires able to cause a shake at some speeds. Balancing with a Hunter 9700 Road Force Balancer that puts pressure on the tires and checks to be sure they roll round under the weight of the car and balances them that way will help. On the newer H-body versions of that chassis GM put Michelins on to eliminate most of the out-of-round problems.
The height leveler control has a little arm link from the rear suspension that moves with the tires up to the body to tell it when to turn on and pump up or release pressure in the struts. You should hear the pump run if you turn the key on without starting the car and sit for 30-40 seconds (a long time). The pump should run for about 5 seconds to stabilize the pressures. If it doesn't do that then start checking master fuses in the relay center and in the interior wherever they are on the Aurora.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Take a look at - Classic Aurora 95 - 99 Mechanical Maintenance :: 1995-99 Aurora Maintenance "How-To's" at the Aurora Club of North America.
The temperature gauge is normal, antifreeze is always full; the fans work; the skirt on the front bumper is intact, what could it be?
I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor and the PCM - I still get the same message. It sometimes happens apx.2min after I start the car, then again about half an hour later.
What's going on with it?
Replace the res cap too.
I disagree. No engine is going to overheat 2 minutes after it is started. There is something else (electrical) going on.
Les
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My reply was to this post:
""I have a 98 aurora and i love it. Somewhat recently it began over heating only on the highway. As long as im driving under 55 there are no problems and it runs at a normal temp. It has had the thermostat and radiator replaced already. Does anyone else know what might be causing this annoying problem? Thanks ""
Sorry. Too many overheating posts.
Les
Could this be the starter? I have been told the starter(can't find it-were is this), relay(what is this and were is this), solenoid switch.
I know I am just a female and problem not giving enough information but I am getting so tired of this Aurora-I love it but can't find anyone to work on it hardly-and I can't afford the cost the GM Dealer wants as I am only a single mom with limited income....
ANY HELP AT ALL WOULD BE APPRECIATED....
Thanks
Heather
I hope that someone can help with this Please. I have a 1997 Aurora with about 146000 miles on her. In the last 6 months it has developed this stalling habit. Somedays it doesn't do it, but most of the time it does. It usually takes about a half hour before it happens for the first time, then at first the car won't re-start after a few tries it fires up again and at a high rpm then goes back to normal. It might not do it again for a while or it might do it right away. Each time that it does it and I turn on the key I hear the fuel pump for a second or two, but the car usually wont start. If you turn off the key and wait a minute it usually starts, but not always, but it never stalls for the first half hour of driving, no matter how I drive. Also it seems like it doesn't stall as much when the weather is cooler out, but it has done it in the winter a few times. I'm ready to park the car on the railroad tracks and say good bye.
Well after that post I replaced the FPR and it solved the problem for 14 day's and then it started doing it again. So I replaced it one more time and it lasted for 22 more days and the problem is back. Well I replaced today but it didn't help. So it must be something else even though it sure acts like it's flooding. Very hard to start when it dies and when it does start it gets high RPM's with out me touching the pedal. I am open to suggestions once again. today it died on me about 26 times in a 40 mile drive.
I had a similar problem with my Aurora. I would turn the key and things would come on but no starting. It would come and go. I got so fed up with it.
I had a new key made because the security light would come on when I tried to start it. Only that light would come on. It worked for a little bit, then started doing it again. Finally this last time I took it to a GM dealer. It would start for them, no problem. :confuse: Go figure. But they bypassed the security connection for me to just get rid of that problem. So far it's been starting for me every time.
So I would recommend seeing if the security light comes on when you try to start it. If it does, it's the security connection. It could just be your key, or in the ignition, or the security wires under the hood. I must confess that security is nice, when it works right. :mad: I really don't miss it now!!
I still love my Aurora!!
I was thinking that the Transmission issue has to do with the engine not giving it enough constant torque. I was wondering, since the traction control light and the abs light is on, if it could be the traction control module(if there is such a thing) because, according to the manual, the traction control device uses the abs and limits power from the engine.
PLEASE HELP AS I AM GOING CRAZY!!!!
:confuse: :sick: I want to be cruising in :shades: by the end of the week.
1998 Aurora, about 1 month ago my wife tried to start the car and it appeared as though the battery was dead, I pulled the battery and had it tested and they said it was good. Whenever I attempt to start the car I hear a clicking noise both under the hood and under the back seat at a relay but no turn-over....if I turn the key off and on over and over eventually the starter s l o w l y turns over and the car will always start...eventually. I have cleaned the battery terminals, the grounding screw for the negative cable under the seat, the contacts at the jumping block under the hood and replaced the starter as well as the alternator. The battery reads 14-14.5 volts when the car is running but drops to around 11 volts if the car is turned off. I know this could probably be 101 things but somebody has to have dealt with this before....please respond with any questions...thank you! :sick:
Sounds like a problem like I had. First question. Does just the security light come on and nothing else? If it does, it may be a security problem. I had times when my car wouldn't start. A few turning the key off and on and it would start. And then there were times I couldn't get it to go at all.
Finally when I had a mechanic come look at it because I couldn't get it to start to take it to them, it started, no problem. Made me angry.
When a GM mechanic was finally called about it, they said it probably was a security thing. I had a new key made. It worked for a bit, then started again. This last time even though it didn't start for me but started for the mechanic(must be a female thing lol) they bypassed the security for they wanted it to be cheaper for me. Now I don't have a problem with it not starting. KNOCK ON WOOD!! *knock knock*
So I recommend checking the security. Whether it's your key, the ignition, or under the hood. I wish you luck. Oh, mine is a 1995 Aurora.
I still love my Aurora!!!!
This MAY be the ol' fuel pressure regulator (FPR) problem that is quite common. Search the archives. Pumping the pedal may help clear the flooding condition caused by a leaky FPR. I have not read about anyone trying your work-around. That's why I'm not sure. Good luck.
Les
Got a problem with engine knock. I know what the causes are, trying to see if anyone has some solutions out there I haven't tried.
I've already had it on the scanner and it's showing no codes. I ran SeaFoam engine cleaner through the system (a bottle in the tank, one through the fuel injectors feeding it from the vacuum hose in the intake manifold) under the assumption that I've got carbon buildup on the pistons causing a defacto increase in compression. When that didn't solve the problem I replaced the knock sensor (which was probably still good as the timing advanced when the accelerator pedal was pushed when hooked up to the scanner). Still have the problem.
Just yesterday I changed out the fuel filter (it was somewhat restricted but not blocked), still have the problem.
It's mostly when the car is warmed up and it's hot outside and only under a load, i.e. if I'm heading up a hill slowly and slowly give it some gas or even if I put it in gear, put my foot on the brake and give is some gas.
I've run the tank fairly low and today when I get gas, I'll put some octane booster in to see if that helps. If it does, next time I'll try mid grade gas instead of regular.
If anyone has had this problem and solved it (or can think of any other solutions I haven't tried), please let me know.
The car has been great up to this point (81900 miles) and I would like to keep it until it dies a natural death :-)
Thanks!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Hope this helps
Sounds like you are describing the black nylon fuel rail. There is a safety recall. Search the archives. Replacement is stainless steel, complements of GM. Don't wait; I would not drive the car if it were mine. Several have been destroyed by fire.
Good luck.
Les
Thanks though
After replacing a blown compressor and recharging with R134, the mechanic could not get the compressor clutch to engage no matter what he did. He used his $9000 scan tool to check the PCM and could not find anything wrong. I believe he could not pull any A/C reading at all. He said that he thought it might require the dealership GM TECH 2 scan tool to completely check the A/C sensor and clutch status. He would try to get one the next day.
I drove the car home and then out on an errand and the A/C would not kick in at all but the fan would blow normally. I shut the car off and intended to bring it in next morning.
When I tried it again in the morning, the A/C came on by itself as if nothing was wrong. It blew cold as ice!
From this, my mechanic and I agree that there must be some A/C pending code set in the computer that was preventing the A/C clutch from kicking in and that the computer cleared the code ONLY after a certain number of drive cycles via the OBD1 ECM.
I believe that the only way to detect this situation is to use a dealership GM TECH 2 which is very costly. GM does it again! Why do they torment thier customers?
However, I could be wrong as I have no way to prove my theory.
I recall some auto car shows where proprietary scanning abilities are needed for certain cars. Don't come down on GM as if they're the only ones trying to give quality checking ability via computer but requiring a certain machine to do it. That's better than getting wrong info from someone not skilled in using the correct equipment or from equipment that is multibrand but gives erroneous data because of that multicar coverage (I've heard that problem mentioned also).
Oh, the car specifically was Volvo. The mechanic also mentioned a list of others requiring high-priced purchase of 'their' unit for diagnosis.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
All manaufacturers should be required to make ALL diagnostic interfaces OPEN to use by ANYONE with COMMON tools!
Just my opinion.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,