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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • ibtiggsibtiggs Member Posts: 23
    I've had the same problems with mine. When I checked the wiring between the door and body, I found 4 wires broken. I repaired the wires, and everything works again. however, in order to do it properly, the door should really come off. all of the wires are very small gauge, and break VERY easily when flexed.

    With the price that these cars went for when they were new, You would think GM would have put a little more effort into designing these cars! :mad:
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Member Posts: 23
    I disconnected the battery for 4 hours. after that, I reconnected the battery, and restarted the car. No SES light, and the trans is now shifting normally. Although the problem is now gone, I'd bet it is just a matter of time before it rears it's ugly head again. I think it is time for a visit to a Olds dealer for a diagnosis... Or, can it go to a regular tranny shop, (less expensive)?
    :confuse:
  • shell351shell351 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you so much for responding to my question. Can I ask you how do you keep from breaking them again? I did the rewiring myself and they kept coming apart again, so I hired someone to do it right @ $230.00, and my window still dosen't work and my seat won't work either. Is there a fuse I should check? I can't seem to find anyone who knows how to work on any part of my car. I can't even find a service manual. If you have any info. that might help me that would be GREAT!!!!!!
  • pegasusthunderpegasusthunder Member Posts: 13
    Hey there!! I own a 1995 Olds Aurora and I love it so very much. The only problem I have had with it is that my car wouldn't start at times. Stuff would come on and there would be a click under the back seat. But there would be nothing when I turned the key. I took it to the dealer I got my car from and they would check and ground wires, but it would keep doing it. Sometimes it would start, then sometimes it wouldn't. If this happens to you, I have a hint what might be wrong. Check the security chip in the key. This last time I took it to the dealer, they gave up and got a hold of a GM certified mechanic. They figured it may be the security chip and made a new key. Now it works perfectly.
    So before you get fustrated, check that out. I'm so thankful the dealer I got the car from didn't charge me for all the work they did. :) I just love my car!!!! :)
    I do have one question. Has anyone put a car starter in a 95 Olds Aurora? I mean with the security key and all? I'm just wondering if it can be done. Thank you and good luck to all who own an Aurora. They are not all bad.
  • bugs7bugs7 Member Posts: 6
    I had a similar but different problem> I changed the key as well but this is what happened after. The car started roughly. It went about a half mile and then stalled. It started after 5 minutes, went about a half mile and stalled. This happend six times before I got home. An observation: when it sat overnight it started and kept running. Took it to the dealer but no diagnosis because it did not code nor would it do it for him. Any suggestions?
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Member Posts: 23
    The wires that run between the body and door are 22 gauge wiring, and when I fixed mine, I spliced in a short piece of 14 gauge wire, which is thicker, hence harder to break, PLUS it relieves the strain the wires are under when the door is opened fully. When my door opened all the way before, you could almost play the wiring like a piano! :P Now, I don't have a problem.
    If you paid someone to fix this, I might consider taking it back to them, and either get my money back, or get them to fix it right this time!
    As for the manuals, the only ones available are through a dealer, or you might get lucky on E-bay, and get a used one.
    Either way, good luck! :P
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    GM service manuals are available from www.helminc.com

    Sometimes one can be found on eBay at considerably lower price.

    Les
  • herbert11herbert11 Member Posts: 22
    I had the same problem with my 2001 V6. Took it to a guy I trust while it was running and the check engine light was on. He plugged it into the computer and it came back with several problems. The most serious being that the "torque converter clutch?" was bad. I had the tranny rebuilt for $1900. iknow this guy for 25 years and he never misdiagnoses a problem. I would never take it to a dealer. I have had enough sorry experiences with those guys that I simply don't trust them
  • darndtdarndt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Olds Aurora, the low tire pressure warning light keeps coming on saying low tire pressure, but when I check the tire pressure thay are all where thay should be at 30 psi. If I reset the warning light it still keeps coming on. Can anyone tell me why this is happening and how to fix this problem?
    Thanks,
    Dave
  • bugs7bugs7 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the tip. It worked for me! I have had the car to both the dealer and the transmission people. Both were stumped. It is obviously an electrical problem. The code showed that there was insuffiecient voltage across the selenoid. I spent 1700 to have it fixed and for the next year the folks at the transmission shop must have spent more than that everytime I brought it back.
  • ibtiggsibtiggs Member Posts: 23
    Well, I don't want to burst your bubble, but I had to take mine into the dealer after all! :cry: After spending close to $400.00 for them to diagnose, and to repair some wiring done by a previous owner, NOW they say... PCM time! I guess you were right, dea1! :blush:
  • ray97ray97 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 with the same problem, the lights go on by themselves and you cannot shut them off. I have replaced the sentinel switch and the light control module and I still have the problem. When you shut the sentinel switch to off you should be able to operate the lights manually with the light switch on the column but thats not the case, did you find a solution to the problem thank you ray97
  • gm_allthewaygm_alltheway Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 aurora and i love it. Somewhat recently it began over heating only on the highway. As long as im driving under 55 there are no problems and it runs at a normal temp. It has had the thermostat and radiator replaced already. Does anyone else know what might be causing this annoying problem? :confuse: Thanks
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    When driving my 98 Aurora @ 60 -75 the car shakes a bit, I have new tires, pressure looks ok. Looking for any ideas on how to fix this. I would love for it to run smoother!! Also any input on the rear height leveler, it appears to be broken, anyone had issues with this.

    Thanks in advance
    C
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Are the tires a quality brand that will be round? Have they been well-balanced?

    The stiffness of the chassis makes small imperfections in tires able to cause a shake at some speeds. Balancing with a Hunter 9700 Road Force Balancer that puts pressure on the tires and checks to be sure they roll round under the weight of the car and balances them that way will help. On the newer H-body versions of that chassis GM put Michelins on to eliminate most of the out-of-round problems.

    The height leveler control has a little arm link from the rear suspension that moves with the tires up to the body to tell it when to turn on and pump up or release pressure in the struts. You should hear the pump run if you turn the key on without starting the car and sit for 30-40 seconds (a long time). The pump should run for about 5 seconds to stabilize the pressures. If it doesn't do that then start checking master fuses in the relay center and in the interior wherever they are on the Aurora.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • tjm97tjm97 Member Posts: 27
    The problem is with the Multifunction switch on the steering column; very common.
    Take a look at - Classic Aurora 95 - 99 Mechanical Maintenance :: 1995-99 Aurora Maintenance "How-To's" at the Aurora Club of North America.
  • carpetcarpet Member Posts: 2
    My 1995 Aurora tells me (DIC) it is overheating and my traction control turns off.

    The temperature gauge is normal, antifreeze is always full; the fans work; the skirt on the front bumper is intact, what could it be?

    I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor and the PCM - I still get the same message. It sometimes happens apx.2min after I start the car, then again about half an hour later.

    What's going on with it?
  • tjm97tjm97 Member Posts: 27
    Typically this problem is caused by missing air deflectors under the car. There is one main plastic "shield" and another vertical valance. If they are missing then what you have is usually what happens.

    Replace the res cap too.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    tjm,

    I disagree. No engine is going to overheat 2 minutes after it is started. There is something else (electrical) going on.

    Les
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Could it be a bypass that's blocked and the thermostat opens when the temp goes right up?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • tjm97tjm97 Member Posts: 27
    Les -

    My reply was to this post:
    ""I have a 98 aurora and i love it. Somewhat recently it began over heating only on the highway. As long as im driving under 55 there are no problems and it runs at a normal temp. It has had the thermostat and radiator replaced already. Does anyone else know what might be causing this annoying problem? Thanks ""
  • egill1991egill1991 Member Posts: 1
    My 1995 Aurora dies every once in a while when the outside temperature reaches 80+. It has yet to recreate the problem while a mechanic is there. It usually happens when using the air conditioner or coming off the highway to a stop or at a stop light. It just starts putting out and idles and won't do anything but idle, even when pressing the gas. After letting the car sit for about 5 minutes, it starts up normally, and no problem for at least a few minutes. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions? HELP PLEASE!
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    tlm97,

    Sorry. Too many overheating posts.

    Les
  • hrichardsonhrichardson Member Posts: 1
    Friday morning when I got in my car nothing happend-it wouldn't start-my fiance got in the back seat were the battery is and messed with the cables and a little black box(not clue what it is) that is on the far drivers side (the fuses boxes are between it and the battery) well then the car started, later that night the car did the same thing however we retightened the battery cables and the car started with no problem, well Saturday morning the car wouldn't start-you turn the key the lights come on, radio etc but car won't start you hear a clicking back by the fuse boxes but and then a clicking under the head but the starter never moves. We had the battery checked and it showed bad-so Autozone replaced it, then checked the alternator it showed good. However the car still will not start at all. All it does is click and that is it-the starter is not engaging at all.
    Could this be the starter? I have been told the starter(can't find it-were is this), relay(what is this and were is this), solenoid switch.
    I know I am just a female and problem not giving enough information but I am getting so tired of this Aurora-I love it but can't find anyone to work on it hardly-and I can't afford the cost the GM Dealer wants as I am only a single mom with limited income....
    ANY HELP AT ALL WOULD BE APPRECIATED....
    Thanks
    Heather
  • outlawwolfoutlawwolf Member Posts: 5
    Back in Apr 23, 2006 I posted this:
    I hope that someone can help with this Please. I have a 1997 Aurora with about 146000 miles on her. In the last 6 months it has developed this stalling habit. Somedays it doesn't do it, but most of the time it does. It usually takes about a half hour before it happens for the first time, then at first the car won't re-start after a few tries it fires up again and at a high rpm then goes back to normal. It might not do it again for a while or it might do it right away. Each time that it does it and I turn on the key I hear the fuel pump for a second or two, but the car usually wont start. If you turn off the key and wait a minute it usually starts, but not always, but it never stalls for the first half hour of driving, no matter how I drive. Also it seems like it doesn't stall as much when the weather is cooler out, but it has done it in the winter a few times. I'm ready to park the car on the railroad tracks and say good bye.

    Well after that post I replaced the FPR and it solved the problem for 14 day's and then it started doing it again. So I replaced it one more time and it lasted for 22 more days and the problem is back. Well I replaced today but it didn't help. So it must be something else even though it sure acts like it's flooding. Very hard to start when it dies and when it does start it gets high RPM's with out me touching the pedal. I am open to suggestions once again. today it died on me about 26 times in a 40 mile drive.
  • outlawwolfoutlawwolf Member Posts: 5
    Hi Heather I wish I had your problems. Actually it doesn't sound like the starter but more like a bad connection or a bad relay somewhere. Did this car ever have a aftermarket alarm?
  • pegasusthunderpegasusthunder Member Posts: 13
    Hey there Heather!!

    I had a similar problem with my Aurora. I would turn the key and things would come on but no starting. It would come and go. I got so fed up with it.

    I had a new key made because the security light would come on when I tried to start it. Only that light would come on. It worked for a little bit, then started doing it again. Finally this last time I took it to a GM dealer. It would start for them, no problem. :confuse: Go figure. But they bypassed the security connection for me to just get rid of that problem. So far it's been starting for me every time.

    So I would recommend seeing if the security light comes on when you try to start it. If it does, it's the security connection. It could just be your key, or in the ignition, or the security wires under the hood. I must confess that security is nice, when it works right. :mad: I really don't miss it now!!

    I still love my Aurora!!
  • gm_allthewaygm_alltheway Member Posts: 5
    I posted a message before, tried a few things and im still in the same boat. Does anyone think that it could be a clogged CATALYTIC CONVERTER ? I have heard that this can cause this problem but i am tired of spending money to guess and check. Thanks!
  • 66_chrysler66_chrysler Member Posts: 1
    I am new to this so I don't know if I am posting in the right place. Forgive me if I am not. I have a 95 and here are the symptoms that I am having. It will not shift into overdrive. The traction control light and the ABS light is on. The car misses at idle and under acceleration. Acceleration is limited at best. It not only misses but it will also, for brief moments, run perfectly(brief as in 1/3 of a second). This car has 153k on it but it is nearly perfect in every way. You can hardly tell anyone ever sat in it. Sometimes, more often than not, I will have to push the accelerator down in order for it to start. When it does start on it's own it will usually rev up to about 1500-2000 then fall strait to stall. When I start it again it will usually stay around 6-700. Could someone please tell me if I really got a :lemon: or if these things are typical? I paid $900 and it is nearly perfect other than these problems.
    I was thinking that the Transmission issue has to do with the engine not giving it enough constant torque. I was wondering, since the traction control light and the abs light is on, if it could be the traction control module(if there is such a thing) because, according to the manual, the traction control device uses the abs and limits power from the engine.
    PLEASE HELP AS I AM GOING CRAZY!!!!
    :confuse: :sick: I want to be cruising in :shades: by the end of the week.
  • oldsmoneypitoldsmoneypit Member Posts: 6
    OK..this is the second time around on this issue so if anyone has direction please help.

    1998 Aurora, about 1 month ago my wife tried to start the car and it appeared as though the battery was dead, I pulled the battery and had it tested and they said it was good. Whenever I attempt to start the car I hear a clicking noise both under the hood and under the back seat at a relay but no turn-over....if I turn the key off and on over and over eventually the starter s l o w l y turns over and the car will always start...eventually. I have cleaned the battery terminals, the grounding screw for the negative cable under the seat, the contacts at the jumping block under the hood and replaced the starter as well as the alternator. The battery reads 14-14.5 volts when the car is running but drops to around 11 volts if the car is turned off. I know this could probably be 101 things but somebody has to have dealt with this before....please respond with any questions...thank you! :sick:
  • pegasusthunderpegasusthunder Member Posts: 13
    Hey there.

    Sounds like a problem like I had. First question. Does just the security light come on and nothing else? If it does, it may be a security problem. I had times when my car wouldn't start. A few turning the key off and on and it would start. And then there were times I couldn't get it to go at all.

    Finally when I had a mechanic come look at it because I couldn't get it to start to take it to them, it started, no problem. Made me angry.

    When a GM mechanic was finally called about it, they said it probably was a security thing. I had a new key made. It worked for a bit, then started again. This last time even though it didn't start for me but started for the mechanic(must be a female thing lol) they bypassed the security for they wanted it to be cheaper for me. Now I don't have a problem with it not starting. KNOCK ON WOOD!! *knock knock*

    So I recommend checking the security. Whether it's your key, the ignition, or under the hood. I wish you luck. Oh, mine is a 1995 Aurora.

    I still love my Aurora!!!!
  • eme1011eme1011 Member Posts: 1
    When I start my car up it just cranks over for a while then finally starts. If I pump the gas pedal a couple of times it will start right up. Any ideas on what it might be. Thanks
  • dlewis88dlewis88 Member Posts: 2
    Hey all. I'm new to this site and I was wondering if anyone could help me. I've got a 95 Aurora with 169,000 miles on it. Recently, the idle has gone up to about 1,300 RPMs in park. I tried the idle relearn and that didn't help. In Drive, it idles at about 1,100 RPMs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    eme1011,

    This MAY be the ol' fuel pressure regulator (FPR) problem that is quite common. Search the archives. Pumping the pedal may help clear the flooding condition caused by a leaky FPR. I have not read about anyone trying your work-around. That's why I'm not sure. Good luck.

    Les
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    HI All,

    Got a problem with engine knock. I know what the causes are, trying to see if anyone has some solutions out there I haven't tried.

    I've already had it on the scanner and it's showing no codes. I ran SeaFoam engine cleaner through the system (a bottle in the tank, one through the fuel injectors feeding it from the vacuum hose in the intake manifold) under the assumption that I've got carbon buildup on the pistons causing a defacto increase in compression. When that didn't solve the problem I replaced the knock sensor (which was probably still good as the timing advanced when the accelerator pedal was pushed when hooked up to the scanner). Still have the problem.

    Just yesterday I changed out the fuel filter (it was somewhat restricted but not blocked), still have the problem.

    It's mostly when the car is warmed up and it's hot outside and only under a load, i.e. if I'm heading up a hill slowly and slowly give it some gas or even if I put it in gear, put my foot on the brake and give is some gas.

    I've run the tank fairly low and today when I get gas, I'll put some octane booster in to see if that helps. If it does, next time I'll try mid grade gas instead of regular.

    If anyone has had this problem and solved it (or can think of any other solutions I haven't tried), please let me know.

    The car has been great up to this point (81900 miles) and I would like to keep it until it dies a natural death :-)

    Thanks!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Are EGR openings clean? Is EGR working?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • ibtiggsibtiggs Member Posts: 23
    I don't know about a '01, but my 95 owner's manual specifically states the the car requires premium fuel. Any lower octane might cause a knock.

    Hope this helps
  • steadieeddiesteadieeddie Member Posts: 5
    i recently began smelling gasoline while i was tooling down the road. After shutting off the car i uncovered the cowling and discovered the problem.I have a pinhole leak in the line right next to the #2 plug wire. Is this a special type of fuel hose componet?.It appears that the lines are"form-fitted" to the car......???
  • steadieeddiesteadieeddie Member Posts: 5
    sorry...i have a 96 with 110k miles on it....good car for me...ive had mine for over 6 years now and only real problems were with replacing 2 a/c compressors and of course the multifunction switch problem that everyone has with the classics!!!
  • oldsmoneypitoldsmoneypit Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the response....After I changed the starter, the car did the exact same thing. So I took the old starter to auto zone and had it tested...go figure it was good. While I was there I had them check the battery again, this time the battery failed....I bought a new battery and the darn thing starts every time and the problem seems fixed...Apparently the batteries in these cars are prone to having one of the terminals crack on the inside thus you end up with intermittent voltage issues. I really hope this was the issue...I too love the car, it's like Frankenstein with a better looking body!
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    steadieeddie,

    Sounds like you are describing the black nylon fuel rail. There is a safety recall. Search the archives. Replacement is stainless steel, complements of GM. Don't wait; I would not drive the car if it were mine. Several have been destroyed by fire.

    Good luck.

    Les
  • steadieeddiesteadieeddie Member Posts: 5
    thanks a lot blk97aurora.....where do i find the recall?....and can i go to any gm dealership to get it fixed?
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    Yeah, the car isn't throwing any codes at all.
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    They must have changed it in '01 when they did the redesign as mine calls for minimum of 87 octane.

    Thanks though
  • craig19craig19 Member Posts: 3
    I have had the same problems -- did you receive any advice on the AC? I had mine recharged, bu I am wondering if ther is something electrical.
  • jlhartnettjlhartnett Member Posts: 12
    I have had a similar experience with my 1995 Aurora.

    After replacing a blown compressor and recharging with R134, the mechanic could not get the compressor clutch to engage no matter what he did. He used his $9000 scan tool to check the PCM and could not find anything wrong. I believe he could not pull any A/C reading at all. He said that he thought it might require the dealership GM TECH 2 scan tool to completely check the A/C sensor and clutch status. He would try to get one the next day.

    I drove the car home and then out on an errand and the A/C would not kick in at all but the fan would blow normally. I shut the car off and intended to bring it in next morning.

    When I tried it again in the morning, the A/C came on by itself as if nothing was wrong. It blew cold as ice!

    From this, my mechanic and I agree that there must be some A/C pending code set in the computer that was preventing the A/C clutch from kicking in and that the computer cleared the code ONLY after a certain number of drive cycles via the OBD1 ECM.

    I believe that the only way to detect this situation is to use a dealership GM TECH 2 which is very costly. GM does it again! Why do they torment thier customers?

    However, I could be wrong as I have no way to prove my theory.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >TECH 2 which is very costly. GM does it again! Why do they torment thier customers?

    I recall some auto car shows where proprietary scanning abilities are needed for certain cars. Don't come down on GM as if they're the only ones trying to give quality checking ability via computer but requiring a certain machine to do it. That's better than getting wrong info from someone not skilled in using the correct equipment or from equipment that is multibrand but gives erroneous data because of that multicar coverage (I've heard that problem mentioned also).

    Oh, the car specifically was Volvo. The mechanic also mentioned a list of others requiring high-priced purchase of 'their' unit for diagnosis.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • jlhartnettjlhartnett Member Posts: 12
    I'm not coming down on GM for building "quality checking" into thier product. I am coming down on them for using a proprietary method of diagnosing problems in the product that I OWN! I consider that I have paid dearly already to own the product and I should be able to bring it to whomever I want to service and repair it. But GM puts the independent garage owners at a disadvantage by building proprietary (secret) features into their product.

    All manaufacturers should be required to make ALL diagnostic interfaces OPEN to use by ANYONE with COMMON tools!

    Just my opinion.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I understand. And I agree that there should be commonality and interchangeability so all shop owners can invest in equipment to diagnose all cars without the owners having to go back to the dealer.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • steadieeddiesteadieeddie Member Posts: 5
    i know this is a stupid question...but i recently bought a jack wrench for my '96 and i couldnt remember what it should look like...the business end look like a hook and the body looks like a crank wrench..is that the right one?..it seems like it was really hard to raise up the car with this wrench...does anyone have a picture of the right one so i can check it against what i just bought??????
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