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I have trusted this guage for a long time, although it reads about a pound lower than some. May be time for a new one and to start adjusting pressure downward a half pound at a time. And for some reason I know I had/have a vehicle that called for 28 PSI. Can't help but wonder if a tire shop gave me that reading for this car, or maybe it is recommended for these tires on this car?
Anyone showing 28 PSI on their decal (not Autobahn)?
I have owned my '97 Aurora since 1999. After many years of worrying that the temp guage did not stay at 195, I gave up. Most everyone reports Classics running at the same temps as yours. I added an auxilliary transaxle cooler. I replaced the thermostat. I replaced leaking radiator, finding many leaves and a plastic shopping bag between the radiator and a/c condensor; I thought that would fix the "overheating" -- wrong. If the air baffle mounted under your front bumper has been "removed" by a curb, you may experience 10 to 15 degrees higher temp. I conclude that there is something different about the design of this cooling system that is different than every other car I have owned for over 40 years.
That said, some Classics have experienced real overheating because of blown head gaskets.
Hope this helps.
Les
Les
Hi to you!! I own a 95 Aurora. I have had my share of problems, but I still love my car!! I have owned a lot worse cars than this one. But since I got my problem fixed, I haven't had any problems since. *knock on wood*
It's nice to meet someone who loves this car. Hope to exchange information!! Good luck fellow Aurorian!!
Down side would be shortened fan life and likely a heavy power draw at high speed. I, for the first time, cranked up the radio looking for the point where distortion would start showing up. I was at a light and notice the RPM indicator drop to zero a few times at full volume, but did not discern distortion. And last night I cranked up volume again with engine off. About the top 10% showed distortion. My guess is not enough voltage to keep from clipping and at idle it may have drawn enough power to cause voltage dips resulting in the jumping tachometer.
Norman
Replaced the driver's window switch (as suggested previously), still doesn't work.
There's no problem with the breaker, as the sunroof still works fine. I saw a few other people on this forum with similar problems to mine, but no real solutions.
I have reason to believe that the switch is getting power from the car because using a voltometer shows that there is power from the battery reaching the switch, and entering the switch when the buttons are pressed.
What could my problem be? Any suggestions or tips would be greatly helpful.
Pin P, black wire should be ground. Next connector it will go through pin J. Diagram then shows a grommet, which may be the rubber door sleeve or perhaps hidden behind lower left kick panel. From there is a splice that connects several circuits. I would say your problem is between that splice and master switch since you haven't mentioned problems with the many other circuits that connect at splice before going to ground.
First, please stop shouting.
Second, you did not identify your car or the posts to which you refer. One of them might be mine; I replaced the oil-pressure sender on my '97 Aurora. The sender is black and cylindrical, about the size of a roll of quarters. It is located near the oil filter and is fairly easy to access from under the car. Replacing this does not raise the oil pressure itself, just the indicated pressure. The oil pump is inside the engine; repairs to it are not for someone who has to ask.
I do not know of any sensor that would affect operation of the windows. Maybe you are thinking of a switch or broken wires (very common window failures in Auroras).
Les
No need to destroy the boot.
Why would there be two ports on the same line?
Les
Les
The only thing unusual about my service ports is the cap. At least one of the lines uses a plastic cap that is non-standard and you have to get that small plastic thing from the dealer, $7, so don't lose it.
My last car had a problem where a flapper door under the driver's dash would close and I had to manually open it in order to get heat...maybe something similar -- only in reverse?
and it would seem there has to be two doors, one for passenger side. After locating the doors, see if the connectors are the same and try moving the driver side connector to the passenger blend door.
There's another group of Bonneville afficianados who have similar problems with hot drivers and cold passengers. I believe some found their freon charge was low; but there is a motor actuator for one of the vanes that directs airflow that some have found bad and replaced, themselves.
Forum rules are that I can't post the group URL here but email me at my carspace or my email is in the profile you get clicking on my name at the top of the post. I can lead you to their discussions, which are searchable, for help.
My concern is you may not need the programmer (which many people get from wrecking yards) and may only need an actuator or freon charge.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Put a code scanner on it but it gets a connection error. I suspect a bad ECM or PCM? Any inputs are greatly appreciated. Also where is the ECM located?
Norman
My mechanic said that I have a minute leak in the A/C evaporator on my '98 Olds Aurora. Replacement of the evaporator and dryer will cost $700 with 8 hours labor for removal and replacement of the dash.
The interior of the car and the dash are in mint condition and I am concerned that the mechanic (non-GM) will break or damage the dash and or parts inside of the dash. How do I remove/replace the dash to save time on the labor costs for this repair?
Les
Yours is probably close to the water pump because the belt is not there.
The bolts in the end of the tensioners are reverse threaded on the ones I've dealt with so that pulling on the handle does not unscrew the bolt.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Les
Usually the problem when the cars stalls when idle, the is a small rubber vacuum elbow toward the windshield that gets weak and pinches until it can't breathe. It gets soft in a spot from heat and age. It's a simple fix, just drive up to any cadillac dealership, the elbow pops right off so it will be easy to show them what you need.... Hopefully this helps...
Solid Mental
thanks