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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • johnnieboyjohnnieboy Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for the detailed response and suggestions. I will follow up.
  • bobdobobdo Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 8 cyl had to have crank sensor replaced. It was awhile ago and there may be two separate sensors. Had same problem with 96 Lincoln it had only one sensor
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Need help, advice with tranny situation. Particularly if this fits your solenoid experience.
    A few weeks back it started dropping back from 4 to 3 intermittantly. And having a delayed upshift to 4, even under mild acceleration. It would be Ok from cold start suggesting that problem gets worse as fluid or engine warms. Then it started totally dropping out of 4, like into neutral. And now it also does it in 3. That is once warmed I have only 1 and 2.
    Norman
  • siwelnor18siwelnor18 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 1996 Aurora with a delco 12 disc changer in the trunk. I have just purchased this car 30nov07 and just received the cartridge from the previous ower. I inserted the cartridge into the player in the trunk and followed the owners manual directions. I received a code E32 and have no idea what it means. The player makes noises and then after a couple minutes nothing happens, no music nothing just this error code. I would like to know if you have any suggestions. Thank You Ron In Iowa.
  • johnnieboyjohnnieboy Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1998 with the same disc changer. I have owner the car since 2000.i occasionally get the error code E32. It seems to m to be a code error relating to something not being in place in the disc changer. I simply follow a few steps: (1) open the disc changer door all the way to the right, (2) take out the changer, (3) make sure all the disc holders and discs are properly in place, (4) I carefully place the disc holder into the slot the right way and let the auto feed take in the disc holder, (5) I then make sure the disc changer door is closed fully an d(6) I wait a few minutes for the CD system to do its testing. If I still get the code, I follow the above steps but this time, I remove all the discs and insert only one and make sure that the CD is inserted properly - I then test it with the one CD in place. I have always been successful in eliminating the E32 error message and the CD player and changer working perfectly well with FANTASTIC sound. Johnnie boy
  • papiocjspapiocjs Member Posts: 1
    You have the CD's in the cartridge upside down.
    Have a good day
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    The CDs are supposed to be up side down.

    Les
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    The CDs are supposed to be up side down. Shiny side up, label side down.

    Les
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    My 98 has this issue where the service engine soon light will come one for a couple days then go off, then repeat. I had it in the shop for this. I dont notice anything as far as performance. I think the gas mileage has decreased a bit. The scan came back: P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance Stuck Off . The guy said the torque converter solinoid is bad and needs to be replaced. They are claiming 10+ hours labor for this job plus the part which I don't think is more than 100 bucks. $1400 Job, Yikes!! Does anyone else have this issue? I am looking for alternate solutions to the problem. What is this torque converter solinoids purpose?
    Any words of help/advice are greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
    corey
  • tressiatressia Member Posts: 3
    could u tell me where the wires are under the hood. How did they by pass the security i have the very same problem u did on my 95 aurora. need help desperate i am out of town and have a thousand miles to go by myself. being a woman i hate to get out alone with it so any help u can tell me about what they showed u could really help.
  • tressiatressia Member Posts: 3
    could u tell me where the wires are under the hood. How did they by pass the security i have the very same problem u did on my 95 aurora.i need help desperate i am out of town and have a thousand miles to go by myself. being a woman i hate to get out alone with it so any help u can tell me about what they showed u could really help.
  • tressiatressia Member Posts: 3
    Could anyone tell me how to bypass the security switch on the igination switch. Everytime i turn the igniation on i have to wait sometimes up to 15 mins. before i can get it started. OR tell me things to try i have tryed the AIR can and changing keys.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    The TCC in the convertor is fluid pressure actuated via a channel back to the transmission. That pressure flow is turned off and on via a valve that is controlled by a smaller pressure/flow turned off/on via an electrical solenoid.
    I just did a little checking and it turns out there are regulators for pressure and the electrical solenoid receives pulse width modulation from ECM possibly effecting the apply rate.
    According to what I read, a portable scanner needs to be used so that once the vehicle is up to speed the solenoid can be commanded off and on. That is after doing a full scan for other codes and snapshot of condition is recorded in scanner. If other codes are present they need to be considered in diagnosis.
    Wow, first I have seen of it or heard of it, but there is a filter under the side cover where the TCC control solenoid is. And it looks like filter commonly used in transmissions versus the plastic screens changed out from the bottom. This filter would certainly catch finer stuff than screens and could be culprit in other things such as sticking of valves. Sediment and deposits are indicated as possible trouble for TCC not functioning properly.
    But here is the issue. That side cover is not indicated as removable while transmission is in car, which sucks. But I'd bet there is a good possibility of doing it and the shop is just quoting you the book on labor.
    Checking clearances carefully, you might make enough room to slide engine over enough to remove it by completely removing front motor mount. Shops often have such tricks.
    Ford in the early Taurus/Sable had an access cover in the left wheel well, but did away with it. I heard it was still possible to remove that side cover via shifting engine, but a hell of a lot easier before they removed that access hole.
    Norman
  • ohkelliohkelli Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem. I recently bought the car - and am seriously disappointed with the continuous filling trunk. What did you do to fix the problem. My car is currently at a body shop while the tech is searching for the problem. They have hosed the trunk and it does not seem to be coming directly from the trunk seals.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    What year is your Aurora? Does this happen when it rains? Car washes? Water under pressure or hitting the car at an angle?

    Many of the 95-99's had chronic weatherstripping issues, especially around the rear window. The proper dealer fix was to remove the rear window, replace all of the stripping, and reinstall the rear window. I had it done twice under warranty. I later found that my dealer farmed these repairs out to a local auto glass business.

    If done incorrectly or in incorrect temperatures, you wind up with a nice looking leaking rear window.

    Remember, water can "run" easily, and the source of the water problem may not be the back window or trunk seals.
  • tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    I have a chance to purchase a '96 oldsmobile Aurora at the price of $1500. The family I am looking to buy from is downsizing. It is a wonderful blue color and its body is in perfect condition. One fault- Some times it goes dead on them while driving. They have taken it to be placed on a computer and was told it was the fuel pump. Is this going to cost alot of money to be fixed and should I pass this one up?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you could probably buy the best Aurora in the world for $3,000 bucks, so would you bet $1,500 on this gamble or not?

    why not price out a fuel pump replacement at a local repair shop and then add 50% to that as a fudge factor.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    People on this website love the Classic 1995-1999 Aurora, faults and all, and for good reason. I drive daily a 1998 Autobahn with 87,000 miles and have chosen to pay the freight on some expensive repairs myself within the past 2 years. However, I have owned the car since 1998, know the maintenace I've done, know how I have driven and cared for the car, know what it needs (rear air shocks currently), and I expect an 11 model year old car to require ongoing repair. It goes with the territory.

    From what you wrote, you are going on what the owners said, and what they say their mechanic told them. You are going into this potential purchase virtually blind.

    Do yourself a HUGE favor and take some of the uncertainty out of this decision.

    Spend $100-$150 and have a certified mechanic of YOUR choosing diagnose this issue and any others that may need attention, preferably a GM Cadillac dealer that will know the Aurora and the related technical service bulletins. Ask the owners to produce (non dealer) maintanence records and ask they allow you to get the same from a GM dealer for those items performed by GM dealers (it's on record by Vehicle identification number). This can be done while the car is in to diagnose the current issue. A carfax report would not hurt to insure this car wasn't a salvage. All of this will take 2 hours or less at the dealer.

    If the seller balks at your common sense approach, take a hike. They have something to hide or could care less about you. I'd take this approach if I was buying the car from my mother.

    Spend a little now and have some idea what you are getting into. Buy without doing your homework, and the repairs could cost you more than the car's purchase price itself.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Last time I checked, the fuel pump and gas guage sender parts cost about $450. The fuel pump is located in the gas tank, under an access onr the trunk floor....gas tank does not have to be removed.
  • tdenicetdenice Member Posts: 4
    We have a 2003 Aurora and it started going dead on us the month after purchasing it. We replaced the fuel pump and still had the same problem. I'm convinced that the Aurora is flawed and GM would not acknowledge it. Of course they are no longer being made so who cares. Only the people who were left "holding the bag."
  • ohkelliohkelli Member Posts: 2
    I have an 01 Aurora, that I have only had for @ four months.....that I can honestly say I think was a bad purchase. While I haven't had this problem - I have a HUGE issue with water in my spare tire well in my trunk, as well as wet floor in the back seat and wet front doors (carpet section on the bottom of the door). Upon researching - much on this site...it appears that this is not an isolated problem to my car, but one to the 01 Aurora....
    I have to agree...I think the Aurora was flawed - in many ways- that were not acknowledged. Shop around.....
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    A dealer would not be my first choice to take a car with water leaks unless it was under warranty or there was a technical service bulletin on the car. For water leaks I've used an auto body shop. They do a lot of disassembly and assembly. If you get a leak, they know you will be back there quickly complaining. And they don't wany to lose the business they receive through the auto insurance carriers.

    As to whether Olds or GM is the problem in the diagnosis and repair on your Aurora: you'll find that with the complexity of cars today it seems they try a hit or miss approach to issues that could be caused by different things. To the non mechanically inclined like me, dealers appear to replace parts until the problem (or you) goes away. You'll find that matter what brand you buy, new or used.

    There is an anonymous auto mechanic locally that writes an auto repair collumn for my local paper. Many of the folks who write in tell stories of mystery issues neither their dealer nor their mechanic can resolve. Of course, he gets to the bottom of the matter. His opinion on all of this is that it is the mechanic you choose that makes a difference, one who has the training (ASE certification), experience, and the diagnostic equipment to pinpoint the problem with an accurate diagnosis on the first pass.

    You're not trying to get the best price on a repair. You're trying to get the best value. I have a mechanic that I've used for about 15 years. I've never had a bring back. I don't know how he does it, and I don't care. He has correctly diagnosed and repaired all of my cars, regardless of brand or model. The last thing I want to have happen is for my wife to get stranded somewhere. She depends on me to make the car repair decisions, and by God I had better be right.

    I buy my gas at my mechanic's facility, even though it is always higher priced, because my business relationship with him is important to me. Apparently to him too because the car always comes back fixed, and he asks me about my last repair (my satisfaction) when I'm there. Ask your family and friends if they have found such a mechanic.

    Rather than buying new cars, I've been buying 1-3 year old used cars for decades because I choose to drive something nicer, letting the other guys take the depreciation hit. Then drive them until the cost of repairs or reliability gets under my skin. The Aurora was one of these used car gems and hasn't seen the dealership since it has been off warranty. Funny, a lot of the Aurora mystery problems discussed and resolved in this forum are things my mechanic has resolved on the first pass.

    Good luck.
  • tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    I have talked to the person and he has informed me that I can drive the car on a trial basis and take it to be checked . If I then decide to purchase and fix the car and the problem is not resolved he will refund my money I have placed on the car. He lives in another town and he is bringing me all of his paper work on the car so I can do a Carfax report on it. I have checked around and the fuel pump is $240 while the labor is costing $80 ( not dropping tank) to $150 (dropping tank)I wanted to find out from other owners of an Oldsmobile Aurora if this was a good buy. I love driving the older cars because they are built better. Except the junk of a Ford Contour I own now. Never Buy a Ford.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Read post #3411 above. If you purchase the car, do the $320 fuel pump repair and that doesn't fix it, and you choose to return the car to the seller for a refund of your money, who winds up with the new fuel pump and who pays for it? That's not clear to me.
  • tootertatertootertater Member Posts: 26
    The person Is bringing the car to me so I can get it inspected like I would any car I buy from now own. I will replace the fuel pump if my mechanic says he finds that is the problem. I am paying $500 down and the rest in $100 wkly payments after a 2 wk trail and if my mechanic finds and fixes the problem. If not the person I bought it from will pay back what i have paid him plus the cost of fuel pump and labor. He is bringing me the title and signing a letter to that effect. His family has down sized from two paychecks to one and they are having to move into something smaller. His wife drives the car every day but with her losing her job they cant afford 2 vehicals.I will only be out about $100-$150 for the mechanic to put it on the machine and to check it out hisself.
  • gene900gene900 Member Posts: 5
    Sorry to hear of your troubles. I have a 2002 Aurora, with the 3.5 liter V6. Very reliable. Exceptionally smooth drive train, mileage up to 34 mpg on highway. My biggest complaint would be some notchy feel to the steering. The shop I had look at it advised that a service bulleting was out on it, and advised replacing the entire rack and pinion system at a cost of $1800. Needless to say, I can live with the notchy steering feel. Beyond this, a few rattles in the upper dash at nearly 70,000 mi. Overall, a very good car, with a few liveable flaws.
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    does anyone know why some say that the radios from the 95 are different from the ones in 96 to 99? I have heard that either the wire harness or some3 other function makes later model aurora radios incompatible with the 95s. I DO know that if i put in a different brand/aftermarket rasdio that none of the steering wheel finger controls work . Even the temp/fan buttons on the steering wheel no longer operate. is there a way arround this? I think it has somehting to do with the dark green wires to the radio
  • sanchrsanchr Member Posts: 1
    my 2001 aurorahas the same problem with the 12 disc cd changer. did you find a solution?
  • boylostboylost Member Posts: 3
    My 1996 olds aurora's headlights flicker on and off. Does anyone know the fix for this issue? Thank you for your time and feedback.
    Bill
  • brinwoodbrinwood Member Posts: 32
    See my answer #3844. This is the method to correct the problem with lights flashing and blinking. It does fix it!
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    GREAT FIX INSTRUCTIONS !!!!!!!
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Besides the demon of many lights acting posessed, there is the possibility of it being related to DTR circuit. And I don't have diagram so I am uncertain of the logic of the relay and also uncertain if it uses the low beam for day time running.
    What is involved is a big porcelain resistor that gets put in series with the lamps so they are not as bright in the off position for DTR and as I recall, the vehicle has to be in gear for them to come on.
    If you are talking about when the light switch is off and DTR should be on, the resistor and relay would be first things to check.
    If you are having issue when light switch is on, the relay might still be an issue if contacts have gone bad, but could also be related to logic for switching it.
    Unless it is happening in pairs, you might also have a bad filament as I did. Everytime I looked at front of vehicle, it seemed fine. At a stop light I saw the flickering. Checked and sure enough bulb was out. I wiggled connector and back on. Few days later I saw it was out again when pulled up behind someone, but would sometimes flicker on. Turned out it was bulb itself and not connector.
  • jmarshall22jmarshall22 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora with 120000 miles on it. I have finally got the back firing and engine stuttering problem and have researched that it is the spark plugs/wire sets so me and my dad are replacing those this weekend. Since we are also doing an oil change I decided I might as well replace the PCV valve and check the EGR valve. One problem is we do not know where these valves are located on my car. If someone could do a quick but some what detailed explanation that would be fantastic. Thanks for the help!
  • jmarshall22jmarshall22 Member Posts: 2
  • laurieg1laurieg1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Auror that starts only when it wants to. Initally they thought it was the starter & then leaned towards the ignition switsh & wires. I replaced the wire assembley inside the steering column but still no luck. Does anyone have any great advice before I spend too much money? Thanks for any input you may have.
  • 99dodge99dodge Member Posts: 15
    Have you tried the ignition module under the coil packs sometimes they heat up and wont let it start when they go bad.does it start when it cools down? if so change it but it may be costly unles you can find a good used one.TS
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    My 97 has a slow coolant leak. I have been smelling it off and on for the past 3 months. I finally found the general area that it is coming from. Passenger side of the radiator. I can't really see if it is coming from a hose, connection or the radiator or something else in that area. HHHmmmmm. Any help or ideas with this would be great.
    Any info on swapping out the radiatior or hoses or where to find inexpenxive parts. What should I be looking for? Is this something a novice could fix? OOhh it also has the classic high engine temperature. Thanks in advace for any help regarding this issue. A hot summer is just around the corner, I d like to fix this sooner than later.
    c
  • boylostboylost Member Posts: 3
    I want to tell you that you had the right fix for the problem. I don't know what I would have done if not for your info. Thank you!
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Crack in the radiator:
    I had a similar problem for about a year. While my problem may not be your problem, read post #3858. I too was losing coolant slowly but could see no leaks. You could smell the coolant on and off. The oil levels never rose, nor was there any evidence of contamination of the motor oil. Had to add coolant every 4 months or so.

    One fine day I got to my destination and steam was rising out of the hood area. Upon closer examination, it was just slightly wet in the same place you describe, up by where the radiator hose hooked up to the top neck on the radiator on the passenger side of the car.

    Since my 98 autobahn with 82,000 miles was on the original hoses, I was hoping for the cheap fix, loose or worn out hose and/or loose clamp. Not quite, My mechanic listened to my story and did a pressure test with the engine running and hot. You could see the steam faintly eminating from the exact spot, But there was a minute crack in the radiator neck. Time for a radiator swap and a new radiator cap. And new hoses and clamps.

    At the same time the mechanic pointed out slight seepage and steam from the original water pump. Took care of that too and added a new thermostat. The car has been fine for the past six months. I'm at 91000 miles now.

    High Operating Temperatures:
    I have read a lot of posts about high operating engine temps but have not experienced this except in stop and go traffic and when the outside temps are above 80. As soon as the car is moving, the temp drops slowly back to 200 on the temp gauge, where it has been for the past 10 years. I've owned the car for all but 11000 miles, so the radiator flushes and coolant replacement were done every 2-3 years.

    If you look, there are no front fascia grills on the Classic Auroras for air intake. So the car depends solely on your front flexible air dam to scoop up cooler air and force it up over the radiator. Sitting in traffic, no air flow. And the air temps down close to the asphalt can get really high. Hence, higher operating temps around town and in stop and go traffic are normal. What does your temp gauge read in 80 degree + and stop and go? Mine can approach 220, though the gauges can be off....actual water temps could be higher, never had the gauge accuracy checked.

    I've always used the recommended Delco orange coolant despite all the racket I've read about how the stuff is more corrosive that the green stuff. If it wasn't broken, I wasn't going to fix it.

    I hope your "fix" is as simple as mine. I chalk this stuff up as routine maintenance. Beats car payments and watching the Kelly or NADA blue book values plummet on wife's newer car. And as long as the car is otherwise dependable, I can't think of a car I'd rather be driving, including my wife's Infinity G35 Coupe.

    Other Stuff:
    Struts and shocks are next, I'm still on the originals. The first tuneup will occur when the car starts running rough or the 27 pure highway mpg starts dropping off (at 65 on cruise, 87-89 octane, tires at 35 psi, with a clean air filter). Pure city driving with stop and go, 16-18mpg , less with a happy foot.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    Thanks for the quick response to my inquiry. I appreciate all the information. Do you recall the cost(damage) for the repair/replacement of the items you had described, radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses etc. + Labor and parts.

    C
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Let me dig it out....I've got ot here somewhere.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    I go to a private repair shop. I used to go to the Olds dealer where I bought the car and, after the demise of Olds to a Cadillac dealer. I figured they would be the best folks to diagnose and fix based on their experience with the car, brand, and technical service bulletins. But once the car moved off extended warranty, and after reading all the horror stories in this forum, I moved this car to my local mechanic who worked on all my other cars over the years without incident.

    Parts:
    Radiator ($339), thermostat ($35), thermostat seal ($13), upper radiator hose ($34), water pump ($109), lower radiator hose ($29), antifreeze ($26), shop supplies ($29). Total parts $614.

    Labor:
    Radiator remove and replace ($187), water pump, thermostat, gasket, upper and lower hoses ($170). Total labor $357.

    Total parts and labor: $971.

    THIS POST WILL HAVE A TON OF GUYS JUMP IN AND TELL YOU HOW AND WHERE YOU CAN GET THIS DONE CHEAPER. My experience doing business with this repair guy for 15 years: it's fixed the first time in, and on time; no bring backs; no breakdowns; pick up and drop off. If he says he fixed it, it's fixed.

    If you read posts in this forum about Aurora issues and fixes, they smack of "replace parts, write checks, and pray the problem goes away, if ever."

    It is normal for me to see the repair facility owner stroll out weeks after the repair when I am getting gas and without saying a word first checks the coolant level and then asking me if there are any problems.

    I'm older. I subscribe to the adage you (hopefully) get what you pay for. This doesn't always seem to be the case with car repairs. So when I hook up with a facility and an owner that seems to get it right every time, I stop second guessing the price. Customer loyalty is a two way street. I pay for results, not good intentions. And by the way, the peace of mind has a price tag too.

    Good luck.
  • coreyg1coreyg1 Member Posts: 34
    Thanks, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I wish I could find a mechanic/shop that is 100% trustworthy. Sounds like the cost for these repairs is about right on. The only item that I would like to see a little cheaper is the radiator. Where do you live, maybe I can get in on that auto shop? Anyways thanks for all the input!! I appreciate that it will help me make some informed decisions, I hope all goes smooth.

    C
  • quinsquins Member Posts: 2
    Olds aurora 97 rattles when making right turn...when placed on lift it didnt make the noise...any ideas ?
  • exchefexchef Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like CV joint, look to see if grease is coming out of the boots or if one is torn or missing then that would confirm it. If it is the motor that rattles then that is another thing entirely.
    Just check the CV joint boots first, just because the boots look good don't mean the joint isn't bad but, if the boot is bad then the joint is or will soon be.
  • gsxrguy2008gsxrguy2008 Member Posts: 2
    Wow thats crazy i have a 97 aurora w/ the 4.0 my car does the same thing but backwarks when i first got it it had a really bad misfire i did a tune up and found out the 1 n 7 wire were mixed up but after that the car ran perfect! about a week later the car runs n drives perfect untill it warms up then i go to stop and no signs it jus shuts right off. i did scan it and it has 4 codes pertaining to the iac sensor can someone help me out i know nuthin about this motor never really worked on the northstar that much and since i no longer work at a shop i cant pull it up on alldata! where is the iac sensor located?

    and the other problem im having is when you open the drivers door the radio wont turn off when the car is shut off i have to open another door to get it to go off>?
  • aurand210aurand210 Member Posts: 9
    Did you ever figure out what the problem is? I have an 02' and man, my dream car has turned into a nightmare. I replaced teh motor in teh door, I put in a new battery, I put in a rebuilt engine because headgaskets went out and now the stupid thing starts when it wants to. The mechanic has looked at it twice now and cant figure out what the problem is but does not think it's the starter. It's sounds pretty much like your problem. HELP! :confuse:
  • laurieg1laurieg1 Member Posts: 3
    I have had my car to 2 different mechanics & of course it always starts for them so they can not figure it out. The current one thinks that it is the starter but wants it to act up just to make sure. He is currently working on the blower motor because thats not working right either. If I hear something I will let you know. :cry:
  • 99dodge99dodge Member Posts: 15
    If the car is shutting down when it is hot or not starting soon after you shut it down .The ignition module is heating up and failing.It rests under the 4 coil packs have it checked.
  • exchefexchef Member Posts: 5
    The iac is located in or near the throttle body, on GM's I can usually take it off and clean it up and lubricate it good and it will be fine...not always but don't buy a cheap one.
    Your car should be acting funny(fast idle or eratic idle etc.)if the iac is going out,it usually don't just quit.....check your fuel pressure.
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