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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
edited May 2017 in Oldsmobile
Please share any problems and possible solutions you've discovered with your Aurora.

KarenS
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  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    What PROBLEMS could you possibly have with an Aurora?
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    Recently, it seems like my Aurora has picked up an unusually large amount of road noise from the front. Maybe it's my ears becoming more sensitive to the car, but I drove my 92 toronado the other day and it seemed like the differential was less (Aurora used to be a lot quieter). Anyone have any ideas on quieting down my car?

    Also picked up a slight vibration last week after hitting a piece of debris on the expressway - no way to dodge it (I was PISSED). Hoping it's just a tire balance problem. Any other ideas?
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    Does anyone know of a way to keep the Aurora's running cooler around town when the outside temp. is 100+? Mine run about 200 degrees on the highway, give or take a few degrees. But in town it is 220 to 240!!!!!!! Is there an after market cooling fan that runs at a higher speed? Since everything runs through the computer, I have been told you can't wire around it or change fan speeds.

    It seems that if the car runs cool on the highway you should expect it to run as cool or close to it in city driving. I haven't had mine go into slow down mode yet but I surely expected it too.

    Any suggestion or solutions??????

    Those who are concerned about putting in a new battery, I put an Interstate dry cell in my '95 two years ago. It works great so far. It doesn't have water so it doesn't need to be vented. Cost was about $140 with labor. It wasn't designed for the Aurora but we found one about the same size and height.
  • taylorb27614taylorb27614 Member Posts: 15
    Noticed wetness on the bottom of the oil pan when I bought the car. Took it into the dealer with complaint about oil drips on garage floor. Dealer took out the engine to replace engine half seals. Warranty job took 2 days and would have cost me >$1300. Anyone have a sticky accelerator pedal just off idle? Dealer says this is a maintainence item on the fuel injection system and costs $85 to clean something.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    I've got the sticky accelerator pedal right off of idle, too. I hate it cuz my passengers get whiplash =). Any idea what they clean?
  • tipsicobobtipsicobob Member Posts: 29
    many gm cars with some mileage accumulation suffer from the sticking throttle off idle. It is due to carbon buildup in the throttle body. The only way I know to fix it is to remove the throttle body and remove the carbon build up around the throttle butterfly. This is not a big job for the doit yourselfer.
  • redskin024redskin024 Member Posts: 110
    I used this on my 87 Monte SS. You pour the stuff in the carb according to the directions, let it sit for 20 minutes or so and then blow all the carbon out the exhaust by running it and revving the engine. Dont know how you would use it with no carb though. You should be able to buy it through your local GM Parts Dept.
  • iahmatthewiahmatthew Member Posts: 7
    The driver side a/c is blowing air only a slight bit cooler than outside temp. Passenger side is blowing cold. Back seat is blowing about the same as the driver side. Needless to say it is very hot inside when temps outside exceed 70 degrees. Any ideas on what might cause this?

    I have changed the temp sensor located in the dash just below the steering wheel - NO LUCK!
  • tipsicobobtipsicobob Member Posts: 29
    FOR # 9, I ASSUME YOU HAVE DUAL CLIMATE CONTROL (YOU DIDN'T MENTION THE YEAR). HAVE YOU TRIED CYCLING THE TEMP CONTROL FROM FULL HOT TO FULL COLD SEVERAL TIMES? IT SOUNDS LIKE THE DRIVER SIDE TEMP DOOR IS STICKING, DISCONNECTED, OR THE ACTUATOR MOTOR IHAS FAILED. THE REAR TEMP IS CONTROLLED BY THE DRIVER'S TEMP NOT THE PASSENGER.I WOULD TRY CYCLING THE TEMP SEVERAL TIMES FIRST SINCE A STICKING CONDITION IS THE MOST COMMON. GOOD LUCK!!!
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Before becoming an Aurora fanatic, I was a Fiero fanatic (how's that for picking orphans?). When my V6 Fiero developed a hesitation problem, I cured it by cleaning the throttle body with Gunk Air Intake and Throttle Body Cleaner (spray can). There was a lot of black stuff (carbon I suppose) downstream from the throttle butterfly that the Gunk dissolved away; this was done with the engine running. That fixed the hesitation problem.

    Recently my Aurora started to exhibit similar slight hesitation. I found the Gunk, removed the air intake hose, and stopped. There was the mass aif flow sensor between me, the Gunk, and the throttle body. Since the instructions on the can read, "Do not spray across mass airflow sensor," I did not proceed. I haven't had the time to further disassemble. I assume that the engine will not run with the MAF removed and therefore the Gunk cannot be used in the same way as with my Fiero.

    In the meantime, I poured 12 oz. of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner into the fuel tank. The hesitation is not completely gone, but it is less than before.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Had this problem, too. Driver side warmer than pass and neither one cooling well enough. Ended up being low on refrigerant. The Aurora and the Riviera both have this dual set up and apparently this is how it shows low freon. I probably have the famous leak in the evaporator in the dash, too.Jay
  • larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    I had that problem with an Oldsmobile 98 I owned (1986). Took it to about 3 separate garages before someone finally fixed it. I must have had every inch of the linkage oiled/greased with absolutely no change.

    The shop that finally fixed it did by reprogramming the engine management computer! Apparently some setting was wrong, causing some adjustment to be set way out, somehow causing the accelerator to stick. As I watched him, he punched in a number of codes - the engine idled up and down - and DONE. No more sticking.

    I would suggest taking your car to a shop that's not afraid to mess with the computers. They can probably take care of it.
  • tipsicobobtipsicobob Member Posts: 29
    Sounds like they reprogrammed the position of the idle solenoid. I had the problem on my Park Avenue but could only fix it by cleaning the throttle body. I suppose it's possible that the throttle butterfly could stick in the throttle body if it is allowed to fully close--pulling it back just a hair could fix that. Is your idle speed up a bit?
  • larryfllarryfl Member Posts: 214
    The car I mentioned was a '86 Ninety-Eight that I had several years ago (traded it for my mid-life crisis firebird 6 or 7 years ago). Unfortunately, I don't remember the details. But what you describe could have been it. However, while the firebird had the throttle-body fuel injection, the 98 had multi-port. Does the throttle-body butterfly still apply to MPFI?
  • johnny34johnny34 Member Posts: 5
    I just aquired my fathers 1995 OLDS AURORA.
    It has 177000 highway miles.
    Just recently, the transmision is now stuck in second gear while in drive, and will not shift up into any other gear rendering the car undriveable.
    My local dealer estimates the repair of anywheres
    from $400to$4000 dollars to repair.
    They are uncertain of the real problem, all they seam to want to do is sell me a different car; giving me a trade in of $1000 (not!!!) They won't give me a straight answer; I feel they know that it might be a simpler problem than what it really is and want this car, the tech seams quite interested in it, I don't want to sell it!! I want to drive it and keep this unique vehical!!!
    The transmision was recently flushed by another AURORA dealer within the last 3 months if this helps at all.

    Any help or direction to save this incredible automobile from service diaster would be greatly appreciated.(do you know any tricks I could do)

    I am capable of doing most of the work myself, also, if anyone has info on where I could locate good repair manuals (dealer manuals) that would also help.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    You can look on ebay for a set of manuals for your Aurora. That's where I got mine - they are VERY helpful.

    My parents have a 1995 Aurora that had trans troubles around 90k. Having a whole new transmission (and torque converter) put in by the dealer was around $2,000. Those guys want that car because they think they can fix it cheap and sell it at a big profit.

    See if there's a Cadillac dealer around that you can have look at it or take it to a private mechanic and get a second opinion on it.

    I know of a website that you can look up used car parts on, edmunds won't let me post it, so e-mail me at ryan@shucknet.com and I'll send it to you - could probably get a rebuilt tranny there.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Won't play certain cds, trys and spits it out. I know this has been up here before but can't remember.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    Try a CD cleaner - the lens might have some carbon monoxide buildup on it, especially if the car has ever been smoked in. Also, listen to see if you can hear the motor turning when you put the CD in. E20 is kind of the generic error code for 'can't read the CD' so it could be a few things. Usually means (if the cleaning doesn't work) that you will need to be finding a different CD player.

    I suggest looking on ebay for a replacement. Much cheaper than the dealer or a salvage yard. Plus some of them are brand spanking new. Make sure you get the non-Bose unless you have the Bose system.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    Are you burning your own CDs?
    I've found that the cd player in my Aurora seems to prefer "real" music CDs as opposed to home-made ones burned from the computer.
    I think it's just overly finicky since usually they play fine on my home system....
  • silotwosilotwo Member Posts: 27
    Mine returns an E23 code and keeps the CD, pressing eject switches to the radio. And I never used a burned copy of a CD. Only CD's that are new or like new.

    Dealer used a cleaner as they said E23 meant an error with the optical reader. Thought that was it but it happened again. Stays like that for weeks on end, right until I take it to the local radio shop. Not working when I park it, as soon as the tech starts the car the CD ejects then works like a dream. They are afraid to rebuild it at the $300.00 cost and warranty it unless they know for sure what is wrong.

    Got the E23 a week ago so I'm going to hurry to the shop tomorrow in hopes they can diagnose it. Also was told that a unit from the 2001 is a direct replacement at $510.00 brand new.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    I don't burn my own cds. This code is coming up on a '98 Bose unit out of a "low mile" wreck that I had bought off Ebay and put into my '95 (with factory Bose, but no CD) a few months back with no immediate problem. It seems to be picky as to which cds it rejects. It played my "24K gold Master Recording" of Dark Side of the Moon album fine (I thought) but spit out a new cd that has never been played. I can hear a quick buzz when it tries to spin and read the cd then it is quiet for 15 seconds or so then rejects with the code. When it does play, I sometimes now hear a distant static-like "sfut, sfut, sfut" that fades in and out. How does one get to the lens to clean it?
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    pizza442 - just get a cleaning CD from any electronics type store. Should just be a CD with brushes on it.

    On burned CDs...
    I used burned CDs in my car all the time with no problems. A few hints to help them work better-
    1) Use Disc-at-once recording
    2) Use a good brand of CD Writer (I realize it's hard to change this now). If you have a cheapo CD writer, burn it at a slower speed.
    3) El cheapo blank CDs sometimes (not so much anymore) don't work as well. Try getting the Sonys next time and see if that helps.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    If you look under the dash, you will see three actuators, the middle one controls the blend doors and probably needs to be replaced. My 95 had a cracked center so it probably was spinning when trying to open the doors to give heat.
  • iahmatthewiahmatthew Member Posts: 7
    Pizza442 -

    FREON LOW - Thanks
  • silotwosilotwo Member Posts: 27
    Had my 95 parked at the airport for a couple of weeks,as I was leaving the lot I decided to use the windshield washers to remove the grime. Well, I ended up giving the car a rust bath. Turns out there is a metal bushing in the upper washer reservoir that had rusted badly.

    cheap quick fix was to buy a new reservoir from the dealer, $23.00, and about 5 minutes to replace it. Certainly better than trying to make the old one clean.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    What year is your car to be running 220+? Also, how do you know it is running that hot? (My 2002 doesn't have a very specific/well numbered gauge.)

    A car will run hotter in city driving than cruising because there is much less airflow through the radiator.

    Does the fan come on when it is this hot? Do you have a good mixture of water/coolant? Does your thermostat open? I'm not sure if the water pump is electric or not, but if not then make sure the belt is tight and not slipping over the water pump pulley.

    240 degrees is incredibly hot for the coolant to be running at. If this is in fact the actual temperature, you should probably stop driving it until you get it fixed.

    (I realize the original question was posted 2 months ago, so if you already got it figured out then I apologize)
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    I too own a 2002 Cherry/Neutral 4.0L (nav radio/no sunroof). The Classic Auroras run hotter than the the new models. Both my previous 2001 and now the 2002 come to standard temp quickly and stay there (even in 100+ degree weather, idling with the air on). Perhaps the "catfish" air intakes (from the original Aurora protype) provide just enough air to let the engine keep cool. Though there are no numbers on the new temp gauge, the fact that it jumps to middle and holds says that the folks at Olds fixed the cooling issues in the new models.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    The 2001 & 2002 have additional air passages thru the grill, the classics only have air passage thru the bottom of the bumper. This I think will give you better cooling. My fan comes on but once the gauge reaches 220--240(approx)and the outside temp. is 100+ and on black asphalt the fan doesn't provide enough air circulation. I have considered installing a 180 deg. thermostat. Has anyone tried this? Also I would like to hot wire the high speed fan to a switch. Will this work? Oldsmobile mechanics say it can't be done! Has anyone tried this?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Even on cars with grills, most of the cooling air comes to the radiator from the bottom. A car doesn't need a grill to have good cooling (my 87 Corvette had no grill at all). I wonder if the gauge numbering is not overly accurate. Sometimes the numbers/gauges are not linear. 225-240 is usually considered overheating for most cars. I would think by 240 degrees, you would get a warning light.

    A 180 degree thermostat will most likely not help. As it is, your thermostat opens a 195, but the temp soars to 220+. When cruising a 180 thermostat will keep the temps down to 180+ as opposed to the usual 195+. However, once the temp gets over 195, the 195 degree thermostat is just as open as a 180 degree thermostat would be.

    If you really wanted to try an aftermarket "fix", something like "water wetter" would work better than a thermostat. It works by transferring heat more effectively to the air. However, I've heard negatives about water wetter accelerating wear of cooling systems (nothing concrete, though). Summit Racing sells it (as do other places).
    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=8342

    I have no experience with "hot-wiring" a fan on an Aurora, but on Corvettes this was possible on early models up until the fans became computer controlled. These later models could not be easily rigged to manually control the fan. Earlier models used a temp sensor that basically grounded the fan when a certain temp was reached. In that case, the sensor could just be replaced with a switch "fooling" the fan into thinking the temp had been reached.

    My '87 had two fans, one controlled by the computer and an aux cooling fan controlled by a temp sensor. I could easily get the aux fan to come on at lower temps, or at my control. However, the only way to alter the main fan's behavior was by replacing the PROM (computer) with a custom chip.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Even if you could get the Aurora's fan to come on earlier, this too probably wouldn't help. If the fan isn't cutting it at 225-235, it won't cut it at a lower temp. The hotter the coolant is, the easier it is for the fan to cool it off or hold the temp. steady. This is because the difference in temperatures between the radiator and the outside air is greater than when the radiator is cooler. When the fan does come on, does it hold the temperature steady, or decrease it? If not, then maybe you should look into augmenting the fan, or putting on a higher-flow blade or something.

    Just thought I would ask this: Have you checked to ensure no leaves and such are covering the radiator? Also, is the plastic "front spoiler" lip under the radiator still there? If that has been damaged/torn off, then very little air will get directed into the radiator. This wouldn't have much negative effect when your car is stationary, though.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    When highway cruising there isn't any problem keeping the coolant cool, it runs on the 200 mark or a little below, it is when I slow down in a traffic jam or stop and go driving in town, that is when the temp. gauge gets to the 2nd mark above the 200 mark. I have had it the the Olds dealer and he has checked it out and said everything is okay, fans come on at the correct temperatures. They said the Aurora's are supposed to run that hot. I am not use to a car running that hot!! It really concerns me when I'm in a traffic jam at an idle or creeping along at 10mph and the temp. gauge is at the 2nd mark above 200. I would think running this hot would cause other problems or parts to wear out faster? Seems like there are enough problems with these vehicles anyway. We have a 95 and a 97 both are great cars but have their share of problems. I wouldn't be without some kind of warranty.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    I would worry a bit too. High temps can shorten gasket life, hose life, increase cylinder head temps (which can cause knock and reduced performance)and can warp heads and even blocks. If you are concerned, try adding fans(or modify them for more airflow) or using coolant additives (if you use coolant additives, I would stick with "water wetter" because I would trust Red Line Oil more than another maker of similar stuff).
    However, I will ask again. Are you sure it is running at 240? Just because it is two lines above 200 doesn't mean the gauge is linear (or accurate). Also, maybe you should confirm the temp some other way (via a diagnostic computer getting the temp from the Aurora's computer or maybe with a temp sensor or even a thermometer)

    I remember seeing (somewhere) some small cooling fans that mount in the wheel well and pull air out from the engine compartment, thus improving flow through the radiator. I have been trying to find them, but so far have had no luck. It must have been in Summit, or JC Whitney or a Corvette parts catalog. They were neat because they were about 5" fans, and you could put one or two or three in each wheel well depending on how much you needed and were willing to spend. I will continue to search for where I've seen them.

    Also, I get it! Everyone wants a warranty. I will make no more disparaging comments about them. :)
  • bjackbjack Member Posts: 1
    My 95 runs up into the 220+ range when in stop & go. I checked everything. Check the owners manual the 220+ is not a problem. If the engine gets too hot it will start shutting down cylinedrs to reduce heat.
  • tipsicobobtipsicobob Member Posts: 29
    Now you see why most newer cars have the actual numbers removed from the temp gage. Most are susceptible to calibration variation, but in many cases the seemingly high temperatures are just normal and not a problem because of the pressurized system.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Thanks for the pic, Zinc1. That really helped. Now that I know what the gauge looks like, I can speak more intelligently (not necessarily intelligently, just more intelligently than before) about it. First, it looks like the second bar above 200 may or may not be 240. The gauge isn't linear. Plus, that bar isn't in the red, so who cares? As long as the temp isn't soaring into the red zone, I wouldn't worry about it. The engineers who made the car are smart guys. If they weren't worried about the temps two bars above 200, then I wouldn't worry either.

    As far as when to worry; if the fan doesn't come on until 220, then obviously this isn't a dangerous temperature. This means the engine is getting to the upper end of its comfort range. The fan will kick on, cool things down, turn off, and then kick back on if the temp climbs again.

    As an additional note, most engines have a temperature sensor that the fan/computer uses, and a second one that goes to the dash gauge. Therefore, the temp you see on the dash isn't necessarily the temp the computer sees. Also, the temperature of the coolant is different depending on where in the cooling system you measure it.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    The information I have been able to gather: It states in my owners manual that it has a 180 thermostat in the first place and my Olds tech buddy confirmed that when he replaced it, though the guage seems to stop around 200+/- when warmed up. Also, all the Olds mechanics say the guage is not very accurate. And, through the years it seems that most GM cooling fans kick on at 235 which on my 95 Aurora seems to be around the second (bold) line. The only way to get the correct temp would be with a tech scanner plugged into the cars computer.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    Has anyone tried using a 180 degree thermostat? My manual also calls for the 180. I asked the Olds dealer and he said I was crazy. I showed him and he said it had to be a misprint, they have always used 195 degree. Another mechanic I know said if I changed to the 180 therm. I would also have to replace a chip in the computer. Any thoughts on this? Even though the Olds dealer and mechanics say these temp. we are talking about is normal it still concerns me. Not much room for error. Yes, my fans come on at the correct temp. and most of the time the temp. comes down and the fan shuts off except in extremely heavy traffic and outside temps at 105+. That means the road temp. is probably about 115 to 120 deg. In these conditions the temp. gauge continues to climb until I can get the car up to highway speeds. I love my Aurora's but I would like to find a cure for the high temp. problem. I have replaced my strip at the bottom of the radiator so I know that is not a problem. I enjoy reading all the problems and solutions that everyone sends in, keep up the good work.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    The only solution I can think of is to find a way to get the hot air out. Two vents/ducts at the back of the hood by the windshield as on the Pontiac Grand Prix GTP would probably do it.
  • prisbyprisby Member Posts: 1
    I am using this forum to let possible future buyers of Aurora's the problems I have been experiencing with my 1997 model. I purchased this car used and the problems started right after the 50,000 mile warranty was us. I noticed on the message board that another member had to have an oil pan replaced -- fortunately for them it was under warranty -- mine was at 55,000 miles and cost $1100. On the day I picked up the vehicle they notified me that the water pump was leaking! That repair was another $300. Not even a month later, the starter appears to be going on the vehicle. It hesitates when turned on and that hesitation when extended throws the time/date off. This car is self-destructing after the warranty period!!! and any thoughts of trading it in are out of the question because of the devaluing all Oldsmobiles are facing since GM has decided to phase out this line. Let the buyer beware! Oldsmobiles will not hold their value! Oh, I have spoken with Oldsmobile Customer Service and they did pay for 1/2 of the oil pan repair when I complained continually. They tell me there is nothing else they can do for me and that a $10,000 trade-in value is "good". I'm done with General Motors altogether!
  • garwargarwar Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone else with a 2001 Aurora 4.0 experienced a continuing problem with vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel, gas pedal, and seat at highway speeds (anywhere from 40-70+ mph) on smooth roads that wasn't resolved by the dealer rebalancing the tires? If so, what was done to remedy the problem? Many thanks!
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    Make: OLDSMOBILE
    Model: AURORA
    Year: 2001
    Service Bulletin Number: 000310007
    Bulletin Sequence Number: 180

    VEHICLES MAY EXPERIENCE SHAKE / VIBRATION IN STEERING WHEEL, FLOOR, SEAT AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS ON SMOOTH ROADS.
  • tipsicobobtipsicobob Member Posts: 29
    My 2001 has had the tire disturbance since I have had it, but unfortunately this is a very common and difficult problem on all "G" bodies since they were introduced. They experience extreme sensitivity to tire uniformity and unbalance. It is a complex issue of bushing rates, spring rates, control arm mass, etc.--in other words it is design issue that while improved since the 1995 models, is still not resolved. I have had mine in 3 times now and am still not happy. It takes a finely calibrated balancer at a minimum, but generally a special machine which measures force variation (some better tire companies have them) in order to reduce the problem to acceptable levels.
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    I have not experienced the vibration problem in either my 2001 or 2002 Aurora 4.0L models. The 2001 went as high as 110 MPH, and I have cruised the 2002 at 85 MPH with no sign of wobble. What I can say is that because my cars have not had this problem (and the TSB proves that it exists) there must be some combination of parts & setup that solves the problem. Keep pestering your dealer and GM to find a complete, permanent fix.
  • izzy1961izzy1961 Member Posts: 1
    I'm considering buying an 97 Aurora. It has 80400 miles on it ..It's loaded! The deal is I would get it for 5000.00 because it sometimes stalls at speeds around 30mph, it's been to the dealers and they cant figure it out. It only does it maybe 2x a week. This car is in superior condition and no other problems. Does anyone have ANY info on this, the dealer hooked a computer and left it in to figure it out but couldn't fix it. I know they've replaced the fuel filter. When occurring it can be placed in N and re started immediately. theres no other signs...you cant even tell it stalled until you give gas and nothing. At the price I will pay ..if I can get it fixed (reasonably) I think Im getting a great deal.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Possibly the fuel pressure regulator, or maybe the EGR valve (a couple of the common Aurora failures reported on the Sedans board back in earlier posts).

    We really need a FAQ on repairs. Wish I had time, but, with layoffs at my work, I'm busier than ever.

    --Robert
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Has anyone noticed on their 2002 or maybe 2001 that the shift from 1st to 2nd is a bit hard sometimes? It tends to be in light-throttle shifting. I think I will take it in, but I hate leaving my car at the dealer.
  • mlm4mlm4 Member Posts: 401
    I have a 2000 Bonneville SSEi, which as you may know is, along with the LeSabre, based on the same platform as the Aurora. I and a number of other owners have also had vibration problems similar to what some of you have reported. Mine has done it since new. Shakes at highway speeds, through the steering wheel, seats, and floor. I waited for awhile to see what knowledge I could glean from the Edmunds' forums before taking it in to the dealer armed with something to ask/look for. Everyone else seems very frustrated that the dealers can't fix this problem. No amount of wheel balancing, tire replacement or other tricks seem to work. Finally one poster claimed that the hubs had a manufacturing defect where the stud runout was out of tolerance, which would make the wheel "wobble" in an oval rather than circular spin.
    Today I finally had the dealer take a look at it. I specifically asked them to check the stud runout, but they didn't. Instead they balanced all four wheels and proclaimed the vibration gone. Well, it seems much better, but I'm still not convinced the problem is gone entirely. I still sense a shudder as if driving on a washboard surface, but it is very slight and phases in and out. I'm going to drive it for awhile before deciding whether or not this merits more attention. I hate bringing the car in because they usually do a less than spectacular job. Today they lost one of the wheel nut caps, so I need to go back (again) in the morning to either find it or order a new one.
    BTW, those of us over in the Bonneville forum all love our cars and can appreciate how you guys all feel about your Auroras. Just today I saw three new Auroras, a pretty rare thing (just as rare as the Bonnevilles, if not more so).
    Just thought I would share some thoughts about the vibration. Enjoy your rides!
  • mdearingmdearing Member Posts: 3
    I own a '97 Aurora. I have a love/hate relationship with the car. I have had many many problems with the car including stalling. I brought it to my local dealer at least 8 times. They did everything from tune ups, o2 sensors, etc. nothing worked.

    Finally the owner of the dealership said that he had received a memo from GM reminding all dealers NOT to recommend high octane gas for their cars. As luck would have it, I always put the best gas I could find in the car. Since I stopped using high octane gas, the problems have esentally disappeared.

    Of course I recently tried to trade in the car for a new one. All though the book value is over $14,000, I'm being told that it's only worth $5,000 or $6,000.

    Anyone want to buy a nice '97?
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    mdearing: Did they ever replace the fuel pressure regulator? That is most often the cause of the stalling. As for premium, the only difference I ever noticed by running regular is slight pinging, a little mpg loss and a noticible power loss. (my problem of lean-throttle engine surge remained with either grade fuel)
    Jay 95 Aurora
  • mdearingmdearing Member Posts: 3
    They may have replaced the regulator. At 50,000 miles they replaced almost every part of the ignition system as well as the fuel system. Nothing worked.

    I guess when you think about it, certain high octane gasolines have so many additives that it's detrimental to these sophisticated systems. For whatever the reason, since switching to low octane, all of my cars are running better.
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