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Nissan Pickups Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi,
    Saw your post and I have a similar problem that started tonight on a '97 XE 4x4. I have the check engine light, battery light and brake light lit up on the dash. If I rev the engine above 2000 rpm, the brake light and battery light go out. Have you found the problem with yours? I just looked under the hood and saw nothing obvious and will troubleshoot more tomorrow. Any insight would be helpful.
  • kszymczykkszymczyk Posts: 1
    same problem with my piece of &*&* frontier. debating wether or not to continue. pretty much replaced whole engine and STILL that light comes on. did you replace the knock sensor and did it work?
  • Purchased 2 months ago. Unit has Fabtech lift, wheels and tires, grill guard, Rancho 9000 shocks, air bags, SUPPOSEDLY set up to work in Alberta oilfield. Since delivery, front tires destroyed due to improper alignment, or "settling in" ($500 EACH!), front fender liners have pulled out due to mud clinging as the liners are held in by plastic push pins, tranfer case seal failed due to mud intrusion into seal, box post at end gate separating from floor, King cab doors rattle on gravel, no adjustment available, cabin filter is ineffective.
    Mileage is 10.5 to 12.8 miles/ US gal.
    Dealer continues to be helpful so far, but downtime and week plus wait for service are souring ownership experience.
    Previous truck was Duramax, had less problems than this in entire life of vehicle.
  • madaketmadaket Posts: 2
    Hi Folks, I have a 2004 LE with Goodyear Wrangler SRA p265-70r18 tires that need to be replaced as they are worn out.
    Any suggestions for alternate companies or products or is everybody happy replacing with the same?
  • lhuanglhuang Posts: 2
    Not sure you have the ignition problem on your 2005 Frontier. I have Frontier for almost one year and put 12,500 miles on this truck. Last week, I filled 89 gas (well, I usually fill 87 gas), after that, the strange thing happened, the frontier truck need the second ignition to start, which the first ignition is failed. By the way, I live in Dallas, Tx; we had very high temperature wheather here. Could hot whether affect ignition?

  • minitigerminitiger Posts: 4

    I just got a 1986 4cyl 4x4 Nissan Truck with the same problem as you mentioned. It "stutter" when it starts from standing still mostly in first gear, and sometimes after shifting to 2nd gear and applying gas. And the truck could jerk significantly. At times when coasting on the 5th gear, the engine could occasionaly loss of power for a quarter second resulting in some unsmoothness or jerking a bit. Otherwise, it's a solid truck with 130,000 miles on it.

    I would replace the throttle position sensor as you mentioned. What's more to do??? Thank you the post.

  • the same has happened to me on my 1986 hardbody....both lights work on high beam but only the right works on low beam..I replaced left lamp but that does not fix the problem. Anyone know how?
  • colourscolours Posts: 1
    Hi. I have been hearing a spark-like noise coming from under my 92 Nissan truck. It's automatic, 4 cylindar, has a converter. I've had the brakes, muffler, left tie rod end, and the bushings on both sway bars in the front replaced, and a wheel alignment done 2 weeks ago. this sound is new since the alignment. It only happens when I step on the gas pedal. As soon as I release my foot from the pedal, the sounds disappears. The sound does not happen every time I step on the gas but 90% of the time. This spark like sound is becoming louder as time goes on, and it does not appear to be a body caused sound.

    Can you help?

  • 2003 SE crew cab. Replaced the stock tires with Bridgestone Dueler A/Ts. Excellent tire, great traction in any weather. They look great (like an off-road tire), but ride and noise is not bad. i would definitely buy them again.
  • Hi all.
    I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier XE manual transmission pickup.

    Its been a pretty reliable truck so far.
    Earlier today while driving in San Francisco with its hilly streets, i accidentally accellerated the gas before i had the gear fully into gear. I think i was going from 5th to 4th or 3rd. Speed was @ 35mph.?

    Now suddenly whenever i brake, even lightely, my truck is sqealing.
    Its usually a thin, long scratchy squealing sound. But it does it mostly when braking. There is sometimes a very faint squeal when driving (not braking) but barely - its pretty much just when i brake.
    About 75% of the time i brake now today, since the gear shifting mishap - the gear very loudly made a metallic griding sound for @ 3/4 of a second as i accidently accellarated before the gear was fully shifted into place - the truck make a type of sqealing sound.

    I hope i havent totally messed up my clutch or transmission or something else very expensive?
    Also, about an hour before the gear mishap, while going @ 60mph on slight downhill street, the brakes shimmied when i applied them like they were hesitant to grip fully. I was told by a mechanic once that brakes just do that on occasion as they are warming up or something? But now with the squealing - Im wondering what has happened to my truck.
    Do i just suddenly need to replace the brakes as it has been probably close to 9 months since theyve been replaced, and i drive everyday, alot. Well, maybe on an average 35 miles a day every day.

    Any suggestion, ideas of what might be causing the sudden thin long scratchy squealing sound?
  • I have 1993 Nissan Kingcab SE V6 4x4 pickup with 220,000 miles on it, and still like it, of course. Been taken care of reasonably well--regular tune-ups, oil changes, and all PM. About 50,000 miles ago the mileage went from 21 mpg to 17.5 mpg and has stayed there. Occasionally it would bounce back up, but not for long. With gas prices continually climbing, I'd like to get it back to over 20 mpg. I've taken the car to the dealer who confirms by some test that it's running rich. He suggested changing the oxygen sensor, but I did that 30,000 miles earlier and it didn't help. I also recently had the thermostat replaced thinking it might be the cause. It didn't help either. I'm not sure what to try now to get the mpg back up. Anyone have any ideas?
  • tholthol Posts: 5
    In case this helps...
    I had a similar problem on my 1988 Mazda 323. In my case, the problem was with the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel injection system.

    The pressure regulator had failed and the excess fuel pressure from the pump was not been diverted back to the tank. When I measured the fuel pressure, I read 70psi while about 35-40psi was the normal. So this increased fuel pressure caused excessive fuel to be injected every time the computer pulsed the fuel injectors. The computer was probably seeing the mixture being too rich and was thus shortening the pulse to the injectors but apparently with a 70psi fuel pressure even a short pulse was already delivering too much fuel. The computer would sometimes give me an error code for bad oxugen sensor. Do you get any error codes (engine check light)?

    In my case when I replaced the fuel pressure regulator everything was fine and my mileage went back up to 37mpg (it had fallen to 22mpg).

    So I suggest you measure your fuel pressure to see if it is within spec. If I can remember well I bought a fuel pressure meter for just under $40 a couple of years ago.
  • badnessbadness Posts: 242
    It could because of the Gas has 10% ethenal in it witch witch decress the gas mpg.
  • I have a 1998 Frontier XE, 4 Cyl, Manual Transmission.
    I have started to hear a "clatter" sound when starting to drive, especially when in 2nd gear. Kinda sounds like a thin chain clattering against metal.
    I've noticed no jerking, hesitation, or power loss when driving, just the noise. Was thinking it might be the clutch or transmission, but not sure.
    Anyone have any ideas?
  • I have a 2001 Nissan Frontier 3.3L S/C; adding a cold air intake gives around 4 mpg and an intercooler can give up to ten mpg. Also after adding cyclone's mpg improver I was getting about 26-28 mpg. I run my engine on full synthetic high torque/high RPM engine oil and have enjoyed the effects. I have done some minor exhaust work and my mileage went down accordingly, along with working on the headers. I am adding an underglow kit here soon when I get the money for it, but with the performance mods my mileage has dropped to 21 or so. Then again I also tuned up the supercharger which close to doubled the output when I changed the throttle body (also adding a throttle body spacer -- which should increase gas about mileage 2 mpg) chandeg out the Air Pressure Reg. and the S/C fan. And probably a week ago I changed out the gearing from the belt to the S/C and am greatly impressed with the output.... though I am nervous about gas mileage.
  • Ethanol decreases engine output but not MPG.
  • Add a SMALL amount of water to the clutch and drive for the ussual span of time when you hear the noise. the water should add enough lube to the clutch that you will no longer hear the noise... at least for that short period of time. If you do not hear it like you ussually do it is probably the clutch, which you can replace at little cost, or you could add a faster engaging clutch which could increase gas mileage and faster engagement with less stutter. good luck.
  • This is something I've not had checked and the mechanic didn't suggest it. I'll call tomorrow and find out. I've never gotten a check engine light with this and the computer has not shown an error code. It's worth checking out though. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • I have a 1997 pickup and I just bought it.I am only getting 17mpg on the 4cyl.I specifically bought this for the mileage.I also am getting now codes from the check engine light.What should I try.Sorry to hijack your question but I figure its on the same topic.
  • Just got a call from the dealership after soliciting their opinion on whether the fuel pressure regulator might be the culprit for the decreased gas mileage. They didn't think so, but wouldn't rule it out. One of the mechanics suggested it might be the Emission Gas Return (EGR) valve that supposedly takes unburned fuel (as vapors, I guess) and returns it to be used again. Certainly not sure I have this right. Any thoughts on whether a malfunctioning EGR valve could cause a decline in gas mileage?
  • 1998 Frontier XE 4x4 4 cyl. Manual transmission that does not read a charge coming from the alternator. Had the alternator tested at an automotive store and it tested good, but when put back into the vehicle there is still no charge being read at the battery.

    The problem arose shortly after I noticed frost on the inside of the windshield and defrosted it, but did not wipe all the water off and some drained down into the dashboard. I then noticed the windsheild wipers were much slower, this went on for a week or about 50 - 75 miles of driving (mostly at daylight) then one day when the truck needed a jump start, realized the alternator must be failing. But like I said earlier, when I pulled it and took it in to be tested, it tested fine and when reinstalled it measured while running a slow but steadily diminishing 12v at the battery posts.

    Continuity test show the cables coming off the big terminal on the alternator as good and the ground cable coming off the alternator as good.

    Could it be something under the dash? But what?
  • The EGR takes the exhaust gas that will no longer burn and recirculates it so that it can be used as displacement in the cylinder. It cuts output of the engine but it increases MPG as you are using less heat in the reaction due to less of an explosion in the cyl.
  • Hello,
    When I'm shifting into gears, there seems to be a knock or a "groan" when I'm releasing the clutch. Seems to do it going into every gear. I want to make sure nothing is loose. The clutch doesn't slip when it's fully engaged? Anyone else with this strange noise? I just bought the truck, and I'm trying to make sure everything is good to go.

  • could just be that you are not used to the clutch... some trucks are louder clutches, too, esspecially if you are used to a car.
  • Hello,
    I recently purchased a 2000 Nissan Frontier 4 x 4 that has P275 / 75 / R16 tires on it. The tires are brand new, so the previous owner didn't have them on the truck for long. I don't know if they had that size on before the current set, lets hope not. I was wondering what the short or long term side effects or damage this could cause? The truck only makes a "grinding" sound when the wheel is turned all the way in the left or right direction while going over a bump. I'm thinking that the radius arm is getting pulled on. I'm taking it easy on the truck until I can get the correct size on the truck. Anyone ever had this situation?

  • My frontier does it with 265 stocks.... dealer put on... it is just a bushing sliding along possibly on the radius arm or another part of the cheap stock steering set up
  • I have an 06 Nismo with 16" wheels. I need a set of steel wheels for my snow tires but Nissan wants $275 each... there appear to be no aftermarket wheels that will fit past the massive front brake caliper. Anyone have a source for these rims?
  • bentsbents Posts: 1
    I bought my truck yesterday, and the homely wheels gave me nightmares last night. I am a novice , though, and know nothing about possible upgrades, including possible size changes. The stock wheels are 15" steel. Tire size is 235-75-R15. I would like to retain my tires but to give my truck some dignity with good-looking wheels. I just don't know what options there are. Many thanks.
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