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Nissan Pickups Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lax5lax5 Member Posts: 29
    I am considering importing a 2006 Frontier to Canada. One of the safety features required is daytime running lights, but they are not available on US sold vehicles. I am looking for suggestions on how to solve this problem.

    TIA
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    It is the throw out bearing on your clutch. My father has a 98 Forntier and it does it too. Keep driving it with the knowledge that you will need to replace the through out bearing in the future
    Ryan
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    I think it was just bad timing. It sounds to me like your break pads just need replaced. They have squeekers to tell you when to replace them. Thats what it sounds like to you. Your gears should be fine. I doubt they are related at all. As for the shimmer your rotors could be a little warped. Take it into midas or something like that and have the breaks checked and replaced, and get the rotors turned.
    Ryan
  • jayhawker4jayhawker4 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 nissan frontier xe,been looking for wheels over a year. I heard you have to put 17" wheels on at least or adapters would work. I was very disappointed about the wheels you can find for these trucks. It is very hard.
  • larry10larry10 Member Posts: 88
    When I start my '06 NISMO (cold engine) it takes a second (or less) for the oil to reach all the internal parts...I hear tapping! I have owned an '05 taco and an '05 Tundra but never had this problem.Am I being paranoid? Do any other NISMO's do this? Your' input please.
  • larry10larry10 Member Posts: 88
    When I start my '06 NISMO (cold engine) it takes a second (or less) for the oil to reach all the internal parts...I hear tapping! I have owned an '05 taco and an '05 Tundra but never had this problem.Am I being paranoid? Do any other NISMO's do this? Your' input please.
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Hello! I have an 01 Frontier XE and I just had to replace a burned out brake light bulb. I took the bulb out of the socket before I drove to the store to buy a replacement and as soon as I started driving, the ABS light came on.

    I replaced the bulb with a new one of the exact same part number, but the ABS light hasn't shut off...I'm sure it related because the ABS light has never come on before, and it would have to be a huge coincidence for there to be an ABS failure at exactly the same time I took the bulb out, but I have no idea how to make the light go off and the ABS function normally.

    Any ideas?

    Brian
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    Could just have caused a short when you removed the bulb. It isn't very likely that the two are related or connected, but as you pointed out: there isn't much of another explanation.

    If you had the capability I would run some DTCs, but you would need to have access to a shop of the thousands of dollars that the tool would cost.

    Not much I can tell you except check your rear wheels ABS wiring around the ECM or around the rear of the truck. There may be some form of monitering system that, when removing the light, caused some rare damage.

    You can try turning your car to on, then to off, then back to on. If the light begins to flash, then there is a chance that there is something wrong with the system.
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    The tapping in normal. Nissan has hydrolic lifters in its engine and they tap until the oil reaches them. This is totally normal.
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    Sometimes the computer just needs to be reset. Undo your battery cable and let it sit for a few minutes. This usually resets the computer.
  • larry10larry10 Member Posts: 88
    Thanks for your response ryancey..I tend to worry too much!
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Thanks for your responses, all.

    I drove all day yesterday with the ABS light on (it would be off when I started the truck, then come on at exactly 15mph and stay on until I turned the truck off). Last night I decided to check the lights again and discovered that *both* rear brake lights were out, including the one I had just replaced. This is probably why the ABS light was on...

    The new bulb wasn't seated properly and came loose, and it appears that the brake light on the other side just happened to burn out at exactly the same time. I replaced both lights and they are working again, but I haven't driven the truck yet to confirm that the ABS light is now off (I hope so). I'll drive it today to confirm...

    Brian
  • tholthol Member Posts: 5
    Sounds like the clutch throw-out bearing or the bushing.

    Actually, I have a '98 Frontier 4WD and it has done the same thing a couple of times but then it stopped.

    The bad news is that it is a real pain to change because you have to remove the transmission do get to the throw-out bearing. If you get to that change the clutch plate too.
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    With ABS the system basically reboots itself when the car is turned off then back on. When you Start the car it runs through a checksystem that will probably take until your car reaches 15 MPH. When that happens It tells you something Is wrong. I believe that this is just coincidence though... You should check your brake booster fluid level and maybe drain It... there may be air in your brake lines or your fluid could be old. The other option is to check your wheel speed sensors for ABS and make sure they are all connected. It could be anything, but like I said You will need to check everything or use a scan tool to find it. One is easier than the other... but harder to gain access too.

    Good Luck
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    also brake fluid is agroscopic so It absorbs water, if the cap to your breake fluid has been left off then you have water in your lines and need to replace it.
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I confirmed last night that it was the missing brake light bulb that caused the ABS light to come on at 15mph. Bulbs are in good now and there's no ABS warning anymore. Apparently, it senses the open circuit caused by the missing bulb and triggers the warning light. Incidentally, the brake fluid was flushed and replaced a few months ago, so I'm sure it's all good.

    B
  • tholthol Member Posts: 5
    Problems again. My air conditioning compressor has been making several noises. When the weather is wet it sounds like the motor from one of those big industrial refrigerators. That noise is the same regardless of whether the I have the air cond turned on or not. Then at times it makes the noise of a pepper grinder running at 1000rpm. Still at other times it makes a light knocking sound which increases if I actually turn the air conditioning on. Even stranger, my power steering pump also makes some whistling noise and the alternator also makes a similar noise. What is going on? Is this one and the same problem or 3 problems? I have checked the tension on the belts and they are not overtight. Sometimes in the summer, I can hear the air conditioning belt slipping for a split second once every minute or so as the compressor engages and disengages while the air conditioner is on. :(
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    could be a worn belt, or your bearings are going out.
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    belt timing is off. call nissan
  • tholthol Member Posts: 5
    Today I removed all the belts and indeed without any belts the engine is very quiet. I only run the engine this way for 30seconds though because, of course, without belts the water pump was also not running. Then I added the 3 belts back one by one and the noises also returned one by one. Adding the alternator/water pump belt added a chirping/hissing sound, which seemed to be coming from the alternator. Adding the air conditioner belt added that “old refrigerator” and light knocking sound and finally adding the power steering belt added another chirping sound.?!

    Another strange thing is that with the belts off I inspected the rotation of all the pulleys. There does not seem to be any play in any of the axes and bearings (air cond pump/alternator/power steering pump and pulleys and water pump). Also when I rotate the axles by hand the operation seems very quiet and smooth ???!

    The truck has 72K miles.
    :confuse:
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    You could try the spray that quiets loud belts. This can be purchased at any auto parts store. Your belts might be noisy on some of your devices. You could have a few like the air-con that has bad bearings or something
  • lax5lax5 Member Posts: 29
    Looking for ways of activating/installing daytime running lights. Looking to import a Frontier to Canada and they are mandatory. All suggestions are welcome.
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    Just always turn you lights on
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    The Canadian law requires the Day Time Running lights to come on when the car is started. The lights come on automatically. The reason is drivers might forget to turn their lights on...
  • nifty56nifty56 Member Posts: 279
    Check with your local dealer. Also any automotive electrical repair shop.
  • lax5lax5 Member Posts: 29
    I spoke with an electrical shop and they reminded me to be cautious with the installation of DRL because the computer can be messed up. I now need to track down the wiring schematics for a 2006 Frontier 4X4. Anyone have links to the wiring that they can post?
    Thanks
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Either call or email Hamsar Diversoco Inc. as it is likely they will be able to provide a drl kit for your Frontier. Any competent auto electronics shop will be able to install this. Caution, Do not confuse audio/video vehicle experts with under the hood electronics experts.
  • richbf2richbf2 Member Posts: 73
    Hi all. My frontier CC has 22.5k. Lately, i've noticed that the brake squeaks loudly specially in the morning. It does that for 2-3 stop signs and then stop. I dont think brake pads are worn out. I ask the tech. and they say it is normal because of the humidity that causes oxidation on the disc.(Houston, Tx) I have a 2002 frontier and a new Titan and it does not have this problem. What do you guys think? please help :confuse: :confuse:
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    ehh... Mine does it and I personally resurfaced the brakes, then it stpped for a short time period. It isn't humidity, I ruled that out, but I do have another hypothesis: my brake pads were changed by nissan and it is my belief that the material they use for the pads/shoes is a little harder than most vehicles I have seen or worked on. This isnt necessarilly a bad thing, and the squeek does not mean anything, but it does annoy me, though I am not willing to spend the money to replace working brakes.

    Now the Extra "durability" of the material Isn't 100% what makes them squeel, it is the temperature in combination with the extra density of the pads. When it was 95+ degrees outside, I did not notice a squeek. This therefore makes me believe that the squeeling is from a combonation of type of pad.shoes and weather.

    Hope this helps,

    Alex
  • richbf2richbf2 Member Posts: 73
    Hi Alex! Thank you for your help. I guess i dont have to worry about it then. Happy Holidays to you.
    I really like this forum b/c it is very helpful. Most of time going to dealership serv., they are all about the $$$ :):)
  • richbf2richbf2 Member Posts: 73
    Hi Moneyman6 (Alex)! Here is another issue. May be you can help me out. At around 22.5k, i feel that the brake is weaker than before. Now, i have to press the pedal further down & harder. Before, just a slight tap and i am able to feel the truck is pulled back(very grabby). Is this mean brake pads are worn out. This can't be. Or is it one of the brake pumps is mal-function. What do you guy think?
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    Glad to help, I havent noticed this as much, but then again I drive AT due to sheer laziness, but my only guess could be that it is just how the setup of the brake booster controls pressure. It is possible that it could be a hydraulic system, and when the engine is cranking more your brake pressure is distributed less. still, as I belive you said earlier, your pads arent low so my best judgement call would be to get a friend, if possible, that is somewhat car tech savvy and see if he can do a brief look over of your brakes.

    Now for a small lesson on brakes to help you try and diagnos your own issue. when you apply the brakes lightly as if to slow down, not stop, you are only applying your rear brakes. your drums, rear brakes, (I assume) apply first, no matter what the situation. Drum brakes and disk brakes require some maint., but drums more so, the springs and adjusters, esp if they are duo-servo, require tensioning and adjusting every so often. This could also be a cause if your braking issue is at a certain pressure.

    As an aside note here, Nissan brakes are hard to service outside of a tech station with nessan capabilities. to remove the front disks, a special tool from Nissan is required. However, if possible, you can use an on car brake lathe to machine fron rotors... this is always a good option, but I cannot always assume a shop will have access to this tool. also on my off car brake lathe, I did not have a set-up large enough for the mongo sized rear drums that Nissan grants this automobile... It was extremely aggravating when I found out so I have yet to fix the rear brake glazing from the previous owner.

    Now I have an unrelated question for you, have you applied any mods to your truck? I have been considering some new performance parts, or a lift kit and I have not been able to decide what I should go with... My year is 2001 with the 3.3L S/C, I believe with my current set-up I am pushin 311 TQ and 298 HPat the crank, but that is only with some S/C mods and some minor tweaking around the manifold and cyl. ports. Right now I am seriously debating between a pulley drop to a 2.3" from the stock 3.3" with either a Cold Air Intake or a dual rear exit exhaust custom made by yours truely. The lift would be later, as funds are a little skim at this point in time. Anyone have any opinions for me That would be great.

    Alex
  • rangermangrangermang Member Posts: 27
    Well actually I believe the 05 CC has disk brakes on all 4 wheels (I have one), and I too have noticed weaker breaking and squeaking. My 05 CC SE 4x2 is now at about 26k.
  • dkg4dkg4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Frontier King Cab with 75,000 miles. It recently started shaking between 40-45mph (It feels like the truck is going to come apart.) The tires have been balanced and rotated with no sign of unusual wear. The alignment is fine. The engine has been tuned and no check engine light is on. The carrier bearing has been replaced (it was chipped). The problem continues, any help would be greatly appreciated. :sick:
  • butterflyjonesbutterflyjones Member Posts: 72
    When you say it has been tuned, what do you mean? New spark plugs and spark plug wires? The reason I ask is I just tuned my 1986 kc and it has earthquake syndrome in all gears. It shakes violently and I've yet to find the reason for this. I put new NGK plugs in it 3 months ago with no problems and last week I put new NGK spark plug wires on it and it ran purrfect for one day. The next day we had a bad storm to come through and it has run horrible ever since. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor button also and made sure the inside of the cap was dry. It was DRY and YET it still runs and shakes so badly I can't stand to drive it. I called a Nissan Dealership in my area and asked their master mechanic and he said that he's never run into this type of problem ,anyone run into this before???? Any help would be appreciated. :confuse: :sick:
  • butterflyjonesbutterflyjones Member Posts: 72
    I also changed the fuel filter, but it still hasn't stopped shaking. I put in a bottle of vavoline water remover in the gas tank just in case its bad gas, but its down to 1/4 tank and it still shakes like crazy. :cry: :sick:
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    Could be bad U joints in the driveline.
  • dkg4dkg4 Member Posts: 2
    I've tried new plugs and wires, The distributor, etc. look fine. It has a new carrier bearing and the u-joints are good. We think it might be the pressure plate or flywheel - they may be warped. My shaking keeps getting worse, so it has to be something in the driveline. It now shakes worse than an earthquake.

    I'll keep you posted on the progress. If the next attempt doesn't work then I'll drive it till it shakes apart. :sick: :confuse:
  • robert62robert62 Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem (extreme vibration between 45-55 mph). I couldn't figure it out and finally had to go to a Nissan dealer. They told me that I needed a complete tune-up, even though I had just tuned it up a week prior. They told me that I had to have genuine Nissan parts(plugs, wires, cap...), I thought they were BSing me...Bottom line is, I put in the Nissan parts and problem solved. Apparently the spark is so hot that it will damage aftermarket parts. One of the plug wires I had just replaced the week before had already broken down. You should try it before spending alot of money/time on anything else.
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    My owners manual says to use NGK BPR5ES spark plugs which I did about 3 months ago. It ran fine! The problems started when I changed the spark plug wires. They are NGK also. The original wires I still have except for the intake coil wire that was fused to the broken dist. cap. NGK doesn't make dist.caps or rotors so I bought them at autozone. The truck ran purrfect for ONE day then the trouble began!!EARTHQUAKE SHAKING in all gears and intolerable in overdrive. It lessens in intensity intermittently then after it warms up it goes into earthquake mode. I called the nearest Nissan dealer and their master mechanic claims he has never run into this problem before. Hard to believe he's a master mechanic and has never run into this kind of a problem!!!I'm at my wits end!!! I still have the original rotor button and spark plug wires so I may put them back on and see if that makes any difference. :confuse: :sick:
  • stitzlovestitzlove Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have recently purchased a '93 hardbody, 2WD,5spd.-man. reg.cab, Fuel injected, AC and power steering.
    Within days, I discovered why I got such a "good deal".
    Intermittent starting. :surprise: (a click from the starter relay.. about 5 times or so,then it starts...) I have searched on line forums for information on this, evidently, it is not uncommon. All sources indicate one or more of the following, bad-battery, bad-started relay, bad-starter, bad-connection to solenoid, bad-Clutch Safety Switch, bad-ignition-key swtich.

    I have, replaced:
    Battery, (which tested ok but electrolyte level very low)
    Starter relay switch,
    Tested the Clutch Saftey Switch (CSS) via bypass, it is fine.
    -----
    Sunday, out of frustration, I banged on the starter with a 2x2, (a common technique, to jostle a starter to work) AND IT WORKED. It has worked 4 times now.. but certainly just a matter of time, likely an inconvenient time, to sieze again.
    (But now, I am confident, the starter is the problem!)
    So I set about to replace the starter. I have found them to be about $90.00 all around town.
    The solenoid is on the engine block side of the starter. (not the easier to reach and see, "fender" side) Is that normal? I can't even SEE the solenoid, let alone get to the wires to check them for good clean connection.
    Also, there are so many obstacles in the way, (fuel lines, brake lines, cluch-slave-cylinder and line, motor mount, FRAME, etc. etc.) ...I can see no obvious path to remove it even IF I can get it unbolted from the bell housing.
    One forum indicated moving (pushing) the fuel filter off to one side, and bring it thru the top, past all the other tubes, lines and throttle-body stuff there.
    Is THAT Normal?
    Or do I own some horrible Frankenstien?
    Local shop wants nearly $400.00 to yank old one out, put new one in.
    I think I would rather sell it as a P.T.R.H.S.L. "Parts Truck that Runs if you Hit the Starter with Lumber" than put that much money in a truck with 208,000 miles...

    Anyone know of a reasonably quick and easy way to pull and install a starter (and solenoid) on a truck like this?
    I have replaced many starters, alternators, fuel pumps, oil pumps, brakes, etc. in the past, but I have never seen anything quite this tight and seemingly, purposfully difficult. :confuse:
    Thanks for any help, .....or humorous comments.
    Stitz.
  • ryanceyryancey Member Posts: 42
    Could have had a timeing chain jump a link?
  • moneyman6moneyman6 Member Posts: 14
    Haha nope, not very likely that that would cause all that. 1 in a million, and other things would have to go wrong too. and there wouldnt be too much shaking just a sh*t load of rattling from under the hood.
  • mhmayormhmayor Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced two starters (first one was dead and second was bad remanufacture) on my 95 nissan pickup, 2WD, standard, ext cab, and I know exactly what you mean. You cannot see the solenoid. You must take it off to check out the connections/corrosion. The best way to change it is to put it on a lift. It is kind of tricky to get to the far bolt, but it can be done. If you can't get it on a lift, put the front wheels on some ramps so you have room to work. I changed my first on ramps and the second on a lift(much easier). The best way to get the starter out is to take it out by the brake lines. You have to squeeze it through, but it will go. Be sure that you tighten the wires on the solenoid very good before putting the starter back in. I just had to check my connections on my solenoid today because it has been giving me problems. Don't get too frustrated, these trucks run forever. I've had mine for 3 yrs now and have had no major mechanical problems, just the usual battery, alternator, starter replacement. Hope this helps!
  • wise1wise1 Member Posts: 91
    :cry: I put my original spark plug wires back on the truck and the EARTHQUAKE has CEASED!! It's back to the smooth running that it had before I changed the wires. It still fires only from the exhaust coil although I put a new intake coil on it. What would cause it to only fire from the exhaust side??I can't pass anyone because it won't downshift, it just does nothing when I floor the excellorator. Probably because the intake coil isn't firing??Any help would be appreciated. Thanks :confuse: :sick: Also noticed a popcorn popping sound any ideas what that could be about???
  • ebitt24ebitt24 Member Posts: 1
    stitzlove....first of all don't replace the starter just get the brushes replaced. I had a '93 4x4 that at 200k miles I had rebuilt twice. Local shop around me charges $36! I didn't have any troubles removing the starter. Yeah it's a little tight but it does drop right out from the bottom. Hope this helps!
    ebitt24
  • rengawrengaw Member Posts: 22
    After doing much research on several pickups, I like the Nissan Titan best for my needs. What keeps me from making the purchase is the reliability concerns with the Titan, specifically the brakes.
    I would like somebody to explain to me just what the problem with the brakes was in the first place and what Nissan has done to remedy the problem.
    It is my understanding that in the '04's and '05's that what was done as a repair on the Titan's brakes didn't last very long and the problems reoccured. I was told by a Nissan salesman recently that, "Nissan fixed that problem and they no longer have that as a concern." However, I noticed in the recent issue of Consumer Reports that the brakes were still a major problem in the '06's. What gives? CR said that over half of the Titan owners of '04s responding to their survey said they had brake problems. Almost half of the '05 owners reported brake problems. And the brake problems continued into '06. Looking at the over all reliability for the '06's, it appears that most of the previous trouble spots on the truck have been fixed but the brakes still are a problem giving the Titan Consumer Reports worst reliability rating. I will say that the engine and transmission are holding up really well. Somebody give me a concise account of the Titan's reliability problems, specifically the brakes.
    Thanks.
  • razorthunderrazorthunder Member Posts: 98
    OK. First off the reliability problems extends much further than just the brakes. My 04 Nissan Titan was serviced over 20 times, 4 times for the brakes, and 4 computers systems, window regulators,door handels, switches, engine harnesses, transmission, and serveral recalls. Nissan stopped honoring the written warranty at 24000 miles, and 30 months.
    The issue with the brakes are; brakes in general reduced the kinectic enery of a a vehicle. Note that kinetic energy increases with the square of the velocity (E = ½m·v2 relationship). This means that if the speed of a vehicle doubles, it has four times as much energy. The brakes must therefore dissipate four times as much energy to stop it and consequently the braking distance is four times as long.
    Due to the small design, poor engineering and sub-quality parts in the 2004 Nissan Titans the brakes warp and cause juddering. Brake judder is usually perceived by the driver as minor to severe vibrations transferred through the chassis during braking.
    The judder phenomenon can be classified into two distinct subgroups; they are Hot (Thermal) or Cold Judder. Hot judder is usually produced as a result of longer more moderate braking from high speed where the vehicle does not come to a complete stop. It commonly occurs when a motorist decelerates from speeds of around 120-km/h to about 60-km/h, which results in severe vibrations being transmitted to the driver. These vibrations are the result of uneven thermal distributions believed to be the result of phenomena called Hot Spots. Hot Spots are classified as concentrated thermal regions that alternate between both sides of a disc that distort it in such a way that produces a sinusoidal waviness around its edges. Once the brake pads (friction material / brake lining) comes in contact with the sinusoidal surface during braking severe vibrations are induced as a result and can produce hazardous conditions for the person driving the vehicle. Cold judder on the other hand is the result of uneven disc wear patterns or DTV. These variations in the disc surface are usually the result of extensive vehicle road usage. DTV is usually attributed to the following causes; waviness of rotor surface, misalignment of axis (Runout), elastic deflection, thermal distortion, wear and friction material transfers .
    Ok, this is kind of a technical answer but I have a lot of personal experience in this matter. Bottomline, what I would also take away from this is Nissan's reponse to handeling the brake defect, they fixed the defect the cheapest way possible, so it never really corrected the problem. In my case at the 4th attempt at 30 months/24,000 miles they never fixed it. I got statements like "all brakes judder on trucks/SUVs" or "just trade it in and we'll give 1000 dollars off MSRP" and one representative outright called me "a lair." So I took the truck to Midas to get the repair work done, at an out-of-pocket expense of $800.00.
    So I took out of this whole ordeal is Nissan values its bottom-line (profit) more the the life of its consumers. So the problem with the Nissan Titan extends more than reliability, but also into the lawfulness and ethic values and hopefully no owner has to go through the nightmare that I had to go through with Nissan.
    Good luck if you go Nissan just realize there is more to a truck than apprearance and features. As I like to say "If Nissan isn't even willing to back its product why should I?"
  • thebunkthebunk Member Posts: 6
    I took delivery of one of the first Titans in the Detroit Metro area.
    I also had judder problems but they fixed them and I have't had a problem with them since.

    The problem was from both Nissan and the brake assembly supplier and it is the supplier who is absorbing the majority of costs so if anyone is having a problem it is more Dealer orientated then Nissan's.
    I have to add that my dealer's service dept. has been very responsive and has never given any push back on questions and issues I have raised they have even replaced a burnt out bulb they didn't have to plus they replaced my leather captain seat after 15K because I pointed out ware. I never had the same kind of responsiveness from my F150 dealership that I had purchased 11 trucks from. If Nissan stopped honoring a warranty that would be an reason for a court action and or lemon law filling - I have a feeling from the detail nature of "razorthunder" he knows that and if he hasn't brought action there is a reason he is not articulating other wise he should seek damages.

    My brother's F250's brakes went bad at 25k and Ford would do nothing, another friend who has a Titan has had none of the problems that I had. I love the driveline and non-cookie cutter looks and I will be getting the 08 later this year.
  • rengawrengaw Member Posts: 22
    In the last few weeks, I have spent alot of hours researching what owners and reviewers have to say about the Titan. It has been a emotional rollercoaster because of the polarized experiences Titan owners have had. Some, like razorthunder, have horror stories to tell concerning the problems they have experienced with their Titans and Nissan's failure to fix the problems. While others have nothing but praise for the vehicle and the dealer's service.

    I figured with Nissan building it's first full sized pickup in an all new factory with alot of new workers there was bound to be some problems in the first few years. But I figured it would be a good test to see how Nissan would respond to the problems. Well, there has been the problems and Nissan's response has been mixed. It is hard whether to blame Nissan or the dealers or both. Nissan certainly isn't the only company to try to sweep problems under the rug. Like you, I have heard quite a few stories on the Super Duty brakes being bad and Ford not offering a fix. And Toyota's 3.0 V6 sludge problem which they didn't publicly acknowledge but settled under the table. And GM's V8 truck piston slaps. I personally don't get upset when a manufacturer issues a recall and fixes the problem right, but when they disregard the customer in favor of their own well being, then that is time to be concerned.

    I, personally, have not ruled out buying a new Titan but I'm going to wait another year and try to get a little better understanding of what is going on before I offer up any of my hard earned money. I'm a retired guy who keeps a truck for along time so this next purchase of mine may be my last and I don't want it to be a nightmare. I'm interested in how a truck is going to hold together between the 100,000 and 200,000 mile span and the Nissan Titans have not been around long enough to know that. It will be interesting to see what Nissan has learned from this first endeavor with a big truck and what their redesign will be all about. I am looking forward to seeing and trying out the longer wheelbased Titans in 2008.
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