Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

1…1819212324…29

Comments

  • catman97catman97 Member Posts: 3
    Just got my 97 Catera back from the shop. Had coolant pour out the back of the engine. Could have sworn it was the transmission fluid as it appeared reddish. Turns out to be the plastic heater control valve had cracked. Cost $171 for the part (certified Cadillac part) and $146 in labor. Had to have my Catera towed 45 miles to a garage where they had a mechanic who had worked on Opals for fifteen years in Europe.

    The Catera had been sitting in my garage for eight months. Remembered it as being a joy to drive and certainly was again compared to my other vehicle -- a Saturn Redline Vue with AWD and 250HP V6 which is a fine vehicle but the Catera drives like a sports car but rides like a limousine. Sweet. I live in the Sierra Nevada Mountains and lots of curvy roads, like the Cindy Crawford state " The Catera Commercial depicted "The Catera is the car that zigs".

    Oh yes, the mechanic who worked on Opals for fifteen years in Germany stated he thought Opel made an excellent car.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    You need to figure out if you have fire to the spark plugs. If it won't start, does it turn over or try to start. Take one of the spark plugs out and plug it into the spark plug wire and lay it on the engine on metal part. Have someone try to start the engine and see if there is sparks on the plug. If you have sparks then the problem most likely is in the fuel. There is a valve on the motor to check the fuel pressure. If you don't have a gauge to do that you can use a small screwdriver and push the stem on it and gas will come out but it should be under pressure so be careful. lf the gas does not spay out then you have a feul problem. This is how I would start but this is the basic stuff. If it don't start it is most likely fuel or spark. Let me know if you want more help.
  • sandballsandball Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I thought of doing that, but it uses a coil packs. Can the same procedure work for those since once it's out it isn't connected to the plugs any longer. I also removed the fuel lines when removing the manifold and fuel poured out of the fuel line leading into it.
  • sandballsandball Member Posts: 3
    The car started hard after a heater core and water pump replacement. After about 50 miles of off and on city driving the vehicle doesn’t start at all. I had a misfire on the #4 cylinder and replaced the plugs with 2 prong instead of 4 prong plugs I was told it would be okay to use them. The removed #4 plug looked darkened, but the engine still doesn't start. I have transmission codes of 1-2-3 0753 shift solenoid circuit and code 1850 brake band apply solenoid circuit. However, no other codes are present. Can these codes prevent the car from starting. It cranks but isn't making any attempts to start.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    If the motor is turning over and the key is on there should be fire to the spark plugs. If there isn't then the coil packs are shot or the computer that runs the packs is bad. Did you go back through the old post on this site. It might be your crankshaft positioning sensor. These cars have a lot of trouble with them.
  • txshldmtxshldm Member Posts: 8
    I FOUND OUT THAT MY COOLANT LEAK IS COMING FROM AROUND THE VALLEY WHERE THERE HEAD GASKETS ARE SEALED. I WAS SHOWN THIS ON A COMPUETR SCREEN WHILE A PRESSUE TEST WAS DONE. THE MAINTENANCE PEOPLE COULD NOT TELL ME WHETHER I WAS THE HEAD GASKET OR THE HEAD. HOW DO I GET TO THE HEAD GASKET.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    Please stop shouting (all caps). The leak may not be the head gasket. The oil cooler also is in this valley, in a bath of coolant between the heads, and the cover is a seal to the coolant. It could be leaking here. To get to it, you need to remove the upper and lower intake manifold. Once removed, and the valley exposed, you should be able to see a coolant trail from the leak and determine if it is the head or oil cooler cover. By the way, the oil cooler cover doesn't have a gasket, but uses a liquid gasket sealer. If it cracks or warps, it could leak coolant through this valley.
  • txshldmtxshldm Member Posts: 8
    Initially the oil cooler was what they believed it was, but after looking a little closer you could see the coolant bubbling when he pu tpressure on it. Granted he didn't remove the intakes, but from the looks of it I hoping it is the head gasket and not the head. I understand that this particular year had a problem with this type of issue in the head gaskets.
  • bm4ebm4e Member Posts: 8
    does anyone know where to get a body kit for a catera. I have a 98 catera & cannot find a body kit nowhere. I was told i could use one from a lexus but dont know what lexus. Any help would be great, THANK YOU
  • gwhitcombgwhitcomb Member Posts: 5
    I had trouble with the car alarm system. I pulled out the fuse relays and fuses, and let the car sit for about 3 months. I replaced the relays, and fuses and everything seems to work except the flashers and turn signals. I still beleive there is something between the car alarm going off and not having the fasahers and signals, but the darn electronics seems to cover ewverything except the alarm system.

    Any ideas that I might try before going to a dealer?
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The turn signals and flashers operate on the same fuse/cicuit. Have you double checked to make sure that particular fuse isn't blown? Also, alot of Cateras are bad about leaking water into the tail lights if the car has sat out in the rain for any period of time. You might check them for an accumulation of water.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Hey Chris.... this is Lee... l need to talk to you asap... you can email me at lbvandam@msn.com... so we can line up a phone chat. Thanks a lot.
    ( my sister in law has a problem with a Saab that won't start sometimes.... sounds like what you mentioin in this entry............. thanks Lee... ( by the way, my Caters is doing just fine )
  • tbail1tbail1 Member Posts: 1
    this Cadillac is a 3.0 ltr - This radiator has 2 switches on it and we need to know which one makes the fan turn on and off. At this point, the fan will not come on.
  • micldarmicldar Member Posts: 7
    Hi

    My Cat 2000 start fine when it is cold. So, after I drive it for some time, that is, until the indicator of temperature crosses the middle (normal work temperature), it become hot as normally. The problem is when I switch off the car and after I intent to start again - dead. It only starts the lights in the panel and that's all. Then, I have to wait some 30, 40 or more minutes, while the motor refreshes a little bit and start again. It's a big mess when I have to make various stops in different places, always have to wait!

    I changed the Crankshaft position sensor, but it does't help. Some peoples said that I have to change the MAF, but I think that's not the problem.

    Can anybody help with this issue? thank a lot.

    Micldar
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Those are all blind alleys. I think you have a starter or starter relay problem, or on the outside, an ignition switch problem.

    How to diagnose? Well if you' re on your own, you might buy one of those remote starter switches at Autozone, and hook that up when the problem occurs. This little cheap device allows you to by-pass the ignition switch. The car won't START with the remote starter (you aren't supplying current to the ignition system, only the starter) but it will crank the starter motor. Since this remote goes directly from the battery to the starter relay, you get to test both relay and starter. The down side of this suggestion is that I don't know how difficult it is for you to access the starter motor connections on your car--I'm not that familiar with Cateras.

    You might also thoroughly clean your battery cables.

    I don't think doing this will set off your alarm system unless you disconnect the battery and then try to reconnect it. I think you have to open your doors first with your remote keypass before you mess with the battery.
  • micldarmicldar Member Posts: 7
    Thanks, I will follow your directions with the remote starter switch, or checking the start system with a technician, and will share the results of the operation. Actually, it has logic what you concluded about this.

    Regards,
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    Is there anymore to fixing the problem code PO101 (Mass Air Flow Sensor) then replacing the part and disconnecting the negative battery cable to clear the code on a 98 Catera
    Thx in advance
    AZ_Hvy
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Whoa now. Slow down. A PO 101 code doesn't necessarily mean you need a new MAF sensor. These codes do not identify the defective part, only the circuit or system that is having difficulty.

    Were any other codes set? If so they must be addressed before 101

    Also, check for vacuum leaks, loose oil cap, malfunctioning PCV valve, leaks at throttle body, unseated oil dip stick, something blocking the MAF inlet screen.
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    Yes there was 2 more I don't have the numbers but both has something to do with running rich. My mechanic ( who I trust and has always been able to diagnose and repair problems right the fist time such as ABS Module, oil cooler and other problems in the past) had the car in and did repair Air Pump / Emissions Tube / Reset Computer. Car ran much better but other codes kept coming up. He suggested instead of "throwing parts at it" that he clear the codes and drive it a couple of days then rescan it. After doing that twice the only codes that came up is the 101 and the other 2 about runnind rich and to much fuel.
    The car will run fine but at ideal sometimes will drop down to 2-3 hundred rpms jump back up to 600 sometimes all the way to 1200, it will even die sometimes.
    Any other time I would let "Back To Basics" fix it but Dave does have a policy of only repair with re manufactured parts when new ones are not available. After being just laid off and money is tight I really cant afford to spend 550 when 300 will repair it
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well he's in front of the car and I'm not so if he's confident about the MAF, okay, but if he's wrong, you shouldn't have to pay for it---that's all I'm saying. This trouble code is tricky.
  • ciaradiorciaradior Member Posts: 6
    Oh wow Im having that sameeeee issue PLUS MORE.... Ok, get this I've been having problems with my Catera since day one. I'm beginning to believe its a :lemon:. I just hope its not. Well, it was time to renew my registration and take it to pass emissions. I'm thinking Im in the clear, good to go, ready to ride. NO. The mechanic tells me that some code comes up saying the engine light indicator bulb is blown or missing, meaning my engine light never comes on when I crank up the car. I never notice that. So, I failed emissions :cry:. I contacted a local mobile mechanic to see if he can change the bulb for me me. Thankfully he only charged me $20 bucks. Every one else wanted $70 bucks an hour or a flat rate of $150. Just to remove a cluster which I honestly couldve done myself. Anyways, he replaced it and my engine light came on but it stayed on :-(. This was becoming more and more disappointing. Well, I told him that a few monhs ago I ran a test on my car and it came back as two misfires. So the mechanic said "well that could be it, you need a tune up, that may possibly turn the engine light off." So as he is replacing my spark plugs, the ones left of the engine when facing it were just fine, but the right ones were not. As soon as he took them out I was in shock. He was wiping oil off them. I asked him if that was oil and he said yes, I said thats not normal!!?? He said NOPE. He said this may be a possible blown head gasket or crack head. I said that could explain why my PSI would get low sometimes. After he finished the tune up he than started up the car and stepped on the gas and clouds of white smoke blew out my exaust. Now at this point Im about to pass out. This was only suppose to be a blown bulb. The mechanic than said he didn't expect white smoke to come out my exaust. He asked me if I had any leaks. I told him that my radiator fluid was getting low at times but couldn't ever find where the leak was. He than said that it could be a blown head. I don't know what to do now. Now I can't drive the car because I need to pass emissions. Im not sure if its really a blown head or not. Has anyone else have these depressing problems? Could it possibly be less severe than a blown head? Let me know. Thanks.. Sorry so long.
  • wadie1wadie1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Would anyone know of a good mechanic for the Catera in the Orange County CA area? After reading many of the posts the one standout things is this car is a bit special and needs trained hands. I've no particular problems now but I do want to keep the car in shape.

    Thanks!
  • dogfish52dogfish52 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, My question is my drivers side window quit working, But after letting it sit overnight I went to try it and it went down and back up, then quit again. Are the back windows motors inter changeable with the front? Besides checking the fuse are there other things I can do to maybe save a few bucks? Thanks.
  • alex20ssalex20ss Member Posts: 1
    hello i had abouth the same problem. leaking coolant
    so i tooked it to the delaer and they don't know much abouth this car. they told me to leave it there until they find the problem but i din't, so after couple of day asking almost every body abouth the problem, (leaking coolant) i came to the conclusion that most of the time is the heating control valve. please let me know if that help.
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    Sounds to me like you have a bad switch or a loose wire or a broken wire. It isn't the fuses because if it blow a fuse it wouldn't work again until you replaced the fuse and it did so it isn't that. Does the window go up and down slow or fast when you do get it to work. When a window motor gets bad, a lot of times it gets real slow and will go up slow but down fast. No matter what it is you are most likely going to take apart the door to work on it where it is the motor or the wiring so when you take the door panel off and start looking at wiring , move around switch and wiring while you are trying to get window to work. You can put a jumper wire to your window motor and see if the window motor works after you unplug it. Since one window doesn't work and the rest do then just check the one wire that goes to the drivers window. If it works sometime and not others, I think it is a switch or wire but you can only fine out by taking it apart and trying it.
    I would really dought if the window motor interchanges since I haven't ever seen that before but if you call a parts house, they should tell you.
    You should hope it is the motor because if it isn't then it turns into hours of work to trouble shoot the problem.
  • britnbritn Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know of any place that sells after market tie rod ends for this car for the rear? I'd tried and tried and can't find anyone selling them, and I'd hate to pay the dealership, or give one more penny to Cadillac or GM for this pile of sh*t car! Oh, it's a 2K sport, if it matters.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    There should be an abundance of them at your local salvage yard!! :)
  • renjierenjie Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 00 cadilac 2 months ago, and the car has a problem when there are something in the back, the levelling light start flashing. Who know what the the problem, and how to fix it, thank you very much!
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    More then likely your rear shocks are leaking air, although it could be a line or the compressor it self. Monroe makes a kit which includes both shocks, airlines and fittings for our Catera's for under 100 $ (dealer wants over 400$)
    If it is the compressor, Pontiac GTO 2004 till 2006 rear shocks will work on our cadis if you Google "98 catera rear shocks" you will find a lot of information on them
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    Thanks Mr. Shiftright
    It was the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Instead of paying over 500$ for the part and another 100$ plus for him to install it and reset the codes, I purchased a
    re manufactured MAFS from Checkers for 275$ and replaced it myself then disconnected battery to reset codes. My Cat now runs better then it ever has sense I have owned her plus getting better gas mileage then ever 20 in city best ever before was 18 Thanks again
  • melanie13melanie13 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem !!! Whats causing this? have you found out? Please help.. .manless in New jersey lol I took it to the shop and they said they can't find anything. check engine light doesn't come on and no codes come up. but it's the exact problem .
    hope you can help
    Melanie
  • melanie13melanie13 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 98 catera and it did the same thing . It was a seal . Oil was dripping and the smoke was visable when I was at a stop. they replace the seal and it's been fine ,
    Good luck ,
    Melaie
  • catera44catera44 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 97 catera drove around the block running fine. i dont have the remote for the keyless entry so i locked the doors using the button on the interior door. i then proceeded to open the door using my key and set of the alarm. i had no idea how to turn it off so i disconnected the battery. now when i try to start the car it turns over but shuts off right away and the security light flashes on the dash. does anyone know how to reset the anti theft?
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    I always thought that whenever the alarm is activated, you could deactivate it automatically by using the key to unlock the driver's door.. Since it sounds like that is what you did, there must be some other problem with your security system so I guess I can't be of much help.. However, I would think that disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it after awhile would reset the alarm. You can get a new keyless remote for very little money on ebay. Just be sure to get the correct remote and also the seller will usually furnish instructions to program the remote for no extra charge. Good luck.
  • kaddyradkaddyrad Member Posts: 2
    ok my 99 catera started doing this like for a couple of months butit has been doingit more frecuent.The transmission light started turning on and while driving.The last gear stays stuck and well i have to down shift and den startr shifting up or wat i do is turn the car off and den turn it back on and it starts working fine.......so does anyone have a clue on wat could be wrong
  • flamenco1flamenco1 Member Posts: 4
    Hi I am new here (as of today) and have an 01' Catera with multiple problems. Shouldn't come as a surprise.
    My TC and brake light (dash) go on when the brake pedal is pressed and go off when it is released.

    Further, the car starts and engine goes to 1500 rpm, then idles down to around 5-600, coughing and spitting. It will not move the car in this state as there is 0 power.
    After a while of running like this (1 min or so) the engine seems to clear up and the car runs reasonably well.

    These problems both appeared after we lost the key for the car and it sat for 4 months while we looked everywhere. In the end, we paid $330 to get a new key. The car had to be towed to the dealer where the tow company destroyed the front end by grabbing it by the steering links and bending the tie rod links. The tow company paid for the repairs and now the car can't make it into the alignment bay because of the poor engine performance. Dealer swears that programming the key did not affect the car electronic management.

    Any adice?
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Similar conditions have been responded too by some brilliant and experienced people in the Catera forum history which should be a source for you to get some light on your Catera's issues.
    Dave
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    104000 miles in mint condition except no compression on #4 (if I'm right) driver's side. Can hear compressed leak from crankcase from dipstick tube per engine cycle. I am assuming I have a hole in the #4 piston or ring problem. Valves are moving with cam but can hear a slight tick-tick.
    I am open to thoughts and suggestions before I teardown engine. Love the car and will solve this problem.
    Thanks;
    Dave
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd do a cylinder leakdown test on that cylinder to confirm. I don't think the piston is holed--you wouldn't hear anything in that case. (hole too big). Maybe you broke a compression ring? Was the car pinging like crazy? Did you have a really bad overheat?
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Thanks;
    Will do, Started car this AM and got up to 45 PSI dry. Give me a correct leakdown process. Have done it some time ago with oil and air compressor on other cars but need reminding of proper sequence.
    Dave
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you'd need the proper fitting and gauges.

    Wanna build your own?

    http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/leakdown_tester.htm
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Yes.
  • 2mahc1232mahc123 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Catera and the coolant got mix with engine oil but the engine oil does not have any coolant on it. Do anybody know why is this happening and how to fix the problem, To me it seems like the head gasket must have a leek but the strange part is that the car is running perfectly, and besides the low oil level light that came on, (because of the oil that was sucked into the coolant system) there is no other sign of malfunction. I will appreciate any comments.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Check your transmission fluid. Could be a leak in the transmission oil cooler, which is attached to the right end tank of your radiator.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    With motor oil disappearing from the engine and showing up in the coolant means your oil cooler is leaking. This engine has an oil cooler located inbetween the cylinder banks underneath the intake manifold in a coolant bath. If the cooler leaks, it pumps motor oil straight into the coolant. Cadillac has a kit to fix this with everything you need to get to the cooler and replace it. A friend of mine found it on-line for a shade over $400.
  • hinojosajchinojosajc Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Cadillac Catera. At first it would crank but does not start/fire.
    I change the ignition coil, the stark plugs, the crank sensor, and the ECU.
    After giving up I took a look at the ignition switch.
    If I hold the ignition switch the car will start and then die..
    I bought a new ignition switch but don't know where to start..
    Please help...
  • camm_2camm_2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Catera and it has been sitting waiting for new engine to be installed. Well now I have the engine and time the keys have been lost. Yeah stupid I know, but what am I going to have to do to get a new ignition key made for it... I heard it can be a real pain.....
  • blkcatera00blkcatera00 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    I'm new to this and I need some help. I have a 2000 Catera and I need to buy the Intake Planum Switch Over Valve. I called the dealer but they told me they never heard of that part. I got the name from the sticker inside the hood. Is there a different name for it?

    Thank you
  • konamadekonamade Member Posts: 8
    I believe it's behind the motor but in my shop manual it states that you have to take the air plenum off and the intake manifold. I will give you a breakdown if you get back.
  • konamadekonamade Member Posts: 8
    E-bay tons of shop manuals. I bought a set for 63.00 with shipping used but great shape. As for the dash lights. The center air sucts pop out. Then their is two screws to pull out. Also their is two screws in the steering wheel cover towards the seat. You must remove. Their is a screw in the middle of the instrument panel u have to take out once u get the steering wheel cover off. Now all u have to do is pull it out slowly starting at the right side, but their is a harness their should be yellow. Their is a black clip u have to slide towards the front of the car then just barely get ur hand aroung the left side and pull straight back. I replaced all my dash lights for 10 dollars and it took 30 minutes the dealer wanted 450. I will give u the exact directions word for word it u would like.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles