Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

1…2325272829

Comments

  • thatguy999thatguy999 Member Posts: 5
    My 98 catera ran great for over a year after i bought it. Almost out of nowhere the damn thing has taken a major sheit! First the MAF sensor went out. No biggie. Fixed it. Nothing but regular matinence otherwise. Next, it started having issues starting and stalling at idle. Needed a new crankshaft sensor. Worked for a couple days. Then the dash lights went nuts and the speedometer, ABS/TC and power steering went out, all at the same time. Then they said I needed a new fuel pump and a new electronic brake control module and now a new body control module! WTF?!? Is this the M.O. for all these things to crap out at the same time? I've shelled out so much cash on repairs for this thing and it's still not fixed. I haven't replaced the ABS/TC and body control module yet, cuz they are so damn expensive, i wanted to see about buying them myself and either having somewhere else install them or install them myself. Are these things something i shouldn't even attempt myself? They mechanic wanted to charge me $1200 to replace the MAF sensor. Instead, I bought it for $300 including shipping and had pepboys install it for $80. I've gotten raped on a couple of other repairs that I was told had to be done NOW, and that they would fix all the problems but didn't. I don't want to get screwed over again, and I need this damn thing fixed ASAP. Having to borrow cars and spending almost twice as much in repairs than what i bought it for and the car not be fixed is KILLING ME!!! I loved this car until everything started breaking almost all at the same time! At this point i couldn't even sell it without sinking another $2000 into it at the shop I took it to. I never thought pepboys would be a better choice of auto shops. Somebody tell me something good, cuz i'm at a loss and going crazy.
  • codebocodebo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Cadillac Catera that will start up fine when it is cold, but if shut off after being warm it can take up to an hour to start again. Has anyone else had this problem and could they maybe give me some insight thanks
  • etello88etello88 Member Posts: 7
    is the check engine light on though?...if it is have a diagnostic test performed and the y will tell what it is...probably from my experience can be the MAF sensor or some O2 sensors...have the test done first.
  • bumx100bumx100 Member Posts: 4
    I HAD THAT SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 2000 CATERA. IN THE MORNING IT WILL START FINE AND THEN WHILE I WAS DRIVING THE CAR IT WOULD SHUT OFF AND IF I WAITED AN HOUR OR SO IT WOULD START UP AGAIN. THE PROBLEM WAS MY CRANK POSITION SENSOR ONCE I REPLACED IT I NEVER HAD THAT PROBLEM.
  • micldarmicldar Member Posts: 7
    With the same problem, I replaced the Crank Position Sensor, but it didn't change anything. My Cat2000 give me the same problem today. So, I thing neither is the MAF, because the car runs fine everytime, i.e., you can run it several hours and all is nice while you do not switch off it. If you do this, wait one hour!

    I think maybe is a starter system related problem.
  • myfcmyfc Member Posts: 2
    try replacing the battery if the battery is toast then when the car warms up the battery gets to hot internally and it can't complete the charging circuit and the computer will shut the car off.
  • myfcmyfc Member Posts: 2
    try replacing the battery if the battery is toast then when the car warms up the battery gets to hot internally(the lead plates) and it can't complete the charging circuit and the computer will shut the car off. that's why you have to wait an hour to restart it, the battery has to cool off again.
  • thatguy999thatguy999 Member Posts: 5
    My 98 catera ran great for over a year after i bought it. Almost out of nowhere the damn thing has taken a major sheit! First the MAF sensor went out. No biggie. Fixed it. Nothing but regular matinence otherwise. Next, it started having issues starting and stalling at idle. Needed a new crankshaft sensor. Worked for a couple days. Then the dash lights went nuts and the speedometer, ABS/TC and power steering went out, all at the same time. Then they said I needed a new fuel pump and a new electronic brake control module and now a new body control module! WTF?!? Is this the M.O. for all these things to crap out at the same time? I've shelled out so much cash on repairs for this thing and it's still not fixed. I haven't replaced the ABS/TC and body control module yet, cuz they are so damn expensive, i wanted to see about buying them myself and either having somewhere else install them or install them myself. Are these things something i shouldn't even attempt myself? They mechanic wanted to charge me $1200 to replace the MAF sensor. Instead, I bought it for $300 including shipping and had pepboys install it for $80. I've gotten raped on a couple of other repairs that I was told had to be done NOW, and that they would fix all the problems but didn't. I don't want to get screwed over again, and I need this damn thing fixed ASAP. Having to borrow cars and spending almost twice as much in repairs than what i bought it for and the car not be fixed is KILLING ME!!! I loved this car until everything started breaking almost all at the same time! At this point i couldn't even sell it without sinking another $2000 into it at the shop I took it to. I never thought pepboys would be a better choice of auto shops. Somebody tell me something good, cuz i'm at a loss and going crazy!

    So now after 3 hours of labor (Are you serious? Don't they have a computer code retriever???), they say i need the ABS/TC module (which I already knew), but now i need a body/chassis control module, because supposedly the car thinks its on, even when it's turned off? Pretty much the car is undrivable, and has to have the battery cable disconnected while it sits, or the battery will drain. WTF?!!!?

    Should I fix this stuff or should i sell/donate it at the local salvage yard for $500 and take a mutiple thousand dollar loss and have to ride the damn bus? Not sure what to do, because i have sunk so much money into repairs that I could have bought another another car!!! This sheit has to be illegal or something. GRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Just unplug the MAF. If it runs like a bandit, thats your problem. Note that this one of the only cars that will run with the MAF unpluged. I was able to find one for a little over $150 new here in Dallas. Unclamp two hose clamps and replug is all the labor involved. Its right there and anyone could change it out.
  • micldarmicldar Member Posts: 7
    Has sense! but when I turn the key to II position, all the lights come on in the panel. That do not mean that the battery is good? (by the way, what you mean with "toast"? It is possible that a car can run with a such battery?)

    In any case I will follow your advise!

    Thanks a lot... :)

    MD
  • thatguy999thatguy999 Member Posts: 5
    Can someone please give me some advice on what i might want to do with my 98 catera from hell. No one responded to the posts i've made. #1230 and #1238 i think(same post). The guy who's catera decided to have almost every electronic sensor and/or module crap out at almost the same time. PLEASE!!! I'm desparate. Should i continue to fix expensive problems and aquire even more debt than two of these are worth or drive this thing off a cliff? I love this damn car, but she is killing me!!! God must hate me, with all the problems this car is having. lol.

    He're the original post:

    My 98 catera ran great for over a year after i bought it. Almost out of nowhere the damn thing has taken a major sheit! First the MAF sensor went out. No biggie. Fixed it. Nothing but regular matinence otherwise. Next, it started having issues starting and stalling at idle. Needed a new crankshaft sensor. Worked for a couple days. Then the dash lights went nuts and the speedometer, ABS/TC and power steering went out, all at the same time. Then they said I needed a new fuel pump and a new electronic brake control module and now a new body control module! WTF?!? Is this the M.O. for all these things to crap out at the same time? I've shelled out so much cash on repairs for this thing and it's still not fixed. I haven't replaced the ABS/TC and body control module yet, cuz they are so damn expensive, i wanted to see about buying them myself and either having somewhere else install them or install them myself. Are these things something i shouldn't even attempt myself? They mechanic wanted to charge me $1200 to replace the MAF sensor. Instead, I bought it for $300 including shipping and had pepboys install it for $80. I've gotten raped on a couple of other repairs that I was told had to be done NOW, and that they would fix all the problems but didn't. I don't want to get screwed over again, and I need this damn thing fixed ASAP. Having to borrow cars and spending almost twice as much in repairs than what i bought it for and the car not be fixed is KILLING ME!!! I loved this car until everything started breaking almost all at the same time! At this point i couldn't even sell it without sinking another $2000 into it at the shop I took it to. I never thought pepboys would be a better choice of auto shops. Somebody tell me something good, cuz i'm at a loss and going crazy.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    I can't tell you what is more economical in your case, dumping it or fixing it. I can offer some advise that may reduce the cost of fixing some of the problems. I know the ABS/TC problem is a common one, and you don't need to spend $2000 for a new ABS module. www.bba-reman.com can fix these units for about $160. All that is required is to send them the control unit bolted to the front of the ABS module, no need to crack open or remove the brake lines. It is very tricky to get to some of the screws because of the location they placed the ABS module. I had to remove the battery and upper radiator hose to get any access, but managed it with an array of different tools, universals, and shorty handled bit holders to get all the screws out. This will fix the speedometer, since the speed sensor signal goes through the ABS module before going to the ECM and speedometer. You can drive the car without the ABS controller on it, just no speedo, and the warning lights being on.

    Call them and see if they can repair the body control module as well. They should be able to tell you over the phone. Again, you just need to send the module to them via mail, UPS, or Fed-Ex. They can fix, test, and send it back with a warranty. Reinstall yourself and save big money.

    I don't know if there is an electronic control system for the power steering, but it wouldn't surprise me. But, this module could be connected to another module that has gone bad, and just went into 'safe' mode. Check the fluid in the power steering reservoir first.
  • assignorkingassignorking Member Posts: 1
    On my 1998 Catera, all at once the turn signals, cruise control and I assume electronic shift control went out at once. Car shifts fine when shifted manually but starts in 4th when in D. Signals and cruise went at the same moment. Is there one fuse that would account for all problems?
  • member47member47 Member Posts: 6
    1.) I have an ABS module that I'm looking forward to replacing on my 98 Catera. Only thing is that my pops told me that the module needs to be air free when you put it in. Is this true? Yes? No? I'm not sure about that but he insisted it was so. I'm just waiting to see if that's not true so I can go ahead and do it already and prove pops wrong.
    I was also told to check the sensors and clean them and that this would fix this problem, I have 3 sets of ABS sensors in the given case they need to be replaced.

    2.) My dashboard is lit up like a christmas tree. Aside from the ABS/TC lights, the following lights are on as well, Radiator, Windshield & Check Engine. I figure if I replace the ABS module I'll knock out 2 lights.
    My question for the remaining lights is what can I fix/replace to knock out the other 3? I think the oil change will knock out Check Engine, but still would have 2 lights left.

    3.) I took the car to an auto shop to do an oil change but they refused because they were afraid I would blame them for the other problems they said there was with the car, possibly head gaskets but they weren't sure since they wanted to charge $80 to check + $80 for each light lit on the car (about $240 in total). When I take off the oil cap, it looks like there is some chocolate pudding smeared on the cap. Is there a way to know for sure if the head gaskets are bad? Or if it's a difficult challenge to tackle on myself? A friend said he would charge me $800 but for that price I can either buy another motor or find me another friend.
  • thatguy999thatguy999 Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I have "the devil car" as well. Don't really drive it anymore because of all the sensor problems (including the ABS/TC) and the massive costs of fixing them all. I don't have the head gasket problem on "the devil" or "abortion" as i've heard it referred to on this site...yet that is. I did have another vehicle that had a blown head gasket, and it had the same pudding/milkshake sludge on the oil cap. I also had to put water in the car everytime i drove it. I loved that truck and it never gave me any problems until the head gasket issue. When i inquired about fixing it, i was told that it would cost quite a bit more to fix it than the car was worth. I'm guessing that would be the same case with the catera, considering that everything on that car costs an arm and a leg to fix. I'm trying to decide if i should shell out even more cash to fix it or just take it as a total loss, leaving myself with a debt that i could have bought a couple of cateras. I love this car, but so many electrical/sensor/module problems are making me crazy!!! Good luck. I'll cross my fingers for you, if you cross yours for me. LOL!
  • thatguy999thatguy999 Member Posts: 5
    With so many sensors and/or modules going out at almost the same time, is it possible that the car's main computer has gone bad and causing all of the sensors to either crap out or make the car think they crapped out? I had someone tell me that it's possible that this senario could be causing all the other problems. Not sure if that's the case, but it does sound like a good possibility. What do you guys think? Anybody else have this happen? Is it more likely that the ECM is fine and that all the sensor/modules would just up and die at same time? A few different mechanics have tried to figure things out and spent a ridiculous amout of diagnostic hours trying to figure things out and when they figure one thing out and fix it, something else goes bad, sometimes within a couple of hours to a couple of days. Does anybody know where the ABS/TC or Body/Chasis Modules are located or how hard they would be to install. The Mass Airflow Sensor was a piece of cake. Any ideas or info is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • bigreidbigreid Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Catera and I'm going through thee same dmn thang if I could get my speedometer to work i'll be satisfied. Can you help me please??!!
  • member47member47 Member Posts: 6
    I'm pretty sure the ABS/TC module will fix the speedometer, the signal goes from the computer through the module direct to the dash, if the module is failing, then the speedometer will die. I figure it's an on/off process to let you know you need to replace it, then it just dies. It's located close to the battery (at least around that area) I got one at the junkyard, taking it out was no problem, putting it in my car is another thing as you have to a photographic memory to remember where everything you disconnect goes. Look it up to see what it looks like then you'll know where to look for in your car, that's how I found it.

    One other thing if you have the ABS/TC lights on, check the ABS sensors. There's 1 in each front tires. Make sure those are clean. For this, you have to remove the tire to find it. You have to remove them with one of those little " L " shape tools with the octagon shape at the tip, they're small and they're no problem to remove. They are located behind the brake pad.

    I would suggest cleaning up the ABS sensors which is a different item from the ABS module. These can get rusty, dirty and you could have your speedometer working on and off. If the cleaning doesn't work, replace the ABS module, unplug your battery for a bit then reconnect and see if the lights go away.

    I haven't got around to doing this stuff because I don't have with what to remove the tires or the ABS module which doesn't seem like an easy thing to remove, unless you have patience and time to spare.

    The spare ABS module and the spare sensors I got because they're not that difficult to remove from other parted out cars. Specially if the engine is gone and there's no tires.

    I have 4 abs sensors for a 97-98 Catera and 2 for 99-01 Catera. If my sensors don't work, I'll have the replacements ready, I'm gonna go to the dismantler later and get the other abs module too. I just want to know if it can be installed just like that or if it has to be air free when you install it like my pops told me.
    If any one can answer me that one question, then I know I'll be fine.

    Also, I don't think it's the computer, the issues started to happen individually, not all together, all the lights distract me now from the fact that the speedometer doesn't work. I have to kinda wing it with the RPM's and kinda guess how fast I'm going. 2.5k RPM's is about 65mph

    I haven't given up on it, at least I don't want to, my wallet does. I want to turn it into a project like some I've seen. Catera's that would match up to a corvette.
    http://www.pbase.com/elvin315/the_catera_v
    Like that one. But one can dream. Might as well just buy the corvette, but I like the style of the Catera.
  • donnateradonnatera Member Posts: 1
    I have the same car. I googled the codes for you.This points to a heater malfunction.
  • etello88etello88 Member Posts: 7
    ummm too late...i already fixed it :)
  • hgqguyhgqguy Member Posts: 2
    My catera would do the same thing, I discovered I had to push the shifter toward the dash. Apply pressure to shifter, then mine starts!
  • chreitzberkchreitzberk Member Posts: 1
    ware can i found the kit u talk about plase help email me [ chreitzberk@yahoo.com] thanks
  • acurryacurry Member Posts: 27
    my temp for outside is off real bad like its 30f here now and its reading 112+ and its throwing off the heat in the car does anyone know where the sensor is for the unit to read the temp or do i need to replace the whole control unit in the car???????
  • country2country2 Member Posts: 26
    I put a different radio in my catera but the theft deterent activated and the radio won't play now. I think I can go to the dealer and have them reprogram it but I would like to fix it myself and save some money. Is there a wire I can disconnect or ground or can I just disconnect the deterent module?
    Open to suggestion!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • tomb11tomb11 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone I have 2001 Catera with 135,000 miles. Love this car, but have had several minor problems other then burning oil and losing anti freeze. Presently, I have no heat on the driver side (blowing cold air) and only one vent on the passenger side blowing hot air and no heat on the floor. NEED HELP WITH IDENTIFYING PROBLEM.
  • navyguy3navyguy3 Member Posts: 1
    I've run into the same problem...Turned out while replacing the water pump found that the timing belt had been slipping back toward the back timing cover and shredding the belt. After changing the water pump and timing belt it seems to me that the shaft and pully components of the water pump must have been seizing up and creating drag on the alternator. If you ever have to replace the water pump please run a fine bead of RTV where the gasket goes and let dry. The O-ring is a crappy design and allows coolant to escape over time. Try and barely loosen the serp belt too if you can (by an 1/8 inch.) This would allow less draw on the alt. If you haven't sold it by now try wrapping it around a tree and buy a CTS (Catera Touring Sport)
  • dhondaowner860dhondaowner860 Member Posts: 2
    need to replace thermostat but i cant find it. where is it and how can i replace it? I already have the new part just need to put it in. :confuse: :confuse:
  • acurryacurry Member Posts: 27
    therom is on the driver side of the engine near the front locate the large hose going towards the engine block and thats where it is its a tight place toget into good luck
  • shortstop4477shortstop4477 Member Posts: 1
    My factory alarm has shut down my fuel injection. Is there any way I can reset it?
  • ritacateraritacatera Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a 2000 Catera and have owned it for almost 7 years. I purchased it as a "used car" in 2003. I was quite lucky it had low mileage and a reasonable pricetag. For the most part I have had good luck with my car. I like my Catera and it's fun to own a car which is rare. Since it's one of 95,000 manufactured ....there aren't that many of us on the road. Occasionally, I will see one like mine but not often. Even though it's going on 10 years old I take pride that it's still an attractive looking car. There is one slight problem with the paint on the back side along the trunk is starting to look shabby like it's melting. So far I have been overlooking it but I hope it doesn't get much worse. It's only been there in the last year or two. I took my car in to be smogged yesterday and lubed and told I need 4 new tires. The guy also told me the ones I have on my car are wrong for my car. The "w" tires wear out faster according to him. He showed me a book on tires which showed which tires are recommended for specific makes and models of cars. I have been trying to do a little research on what tires to buy. I just thought someone out there could give me their thoughts and experiences on this matter. I read someone's review in this forum who had "Continentals". I am going to go with that brand.
  • crapcarcrapcar Member Posts: 1
    Hey-
    I was hoping you could help me?
    My 2000 Catera is one issue after another but paid for would like to keep it and low mileage.
    All my dash lights with the exception of the right hand side burned out well that is what the dealer ship said I paid $150 to get new bulbs so now i can see how fast I am going at night! BUT..now none of my gauges work the temp, rpm, mph, and the gas gauge! I refuse to take it to the dealership again they just ripped me off twice this month- and the other car repair place I went their computer can't read mine so they say they can't fix it?!
    Did you get your MPH to work?
    Just hoping for a cheap quick repair!
    I hate my car I have repaired alot of items since I have owned it!
    Thanks for any help you can give
  • member47member47 Member Posts: 6
    The ABS module fixes the speedometer issue, although I would recommend cleaning out your ABS sensors first. The sensors are located near the brake pads in the 2 front tires. you'll need a small " L " shape tool to remove them and clean them since they can get dirty, rusty, etc.

    If that doesn't work, I would try replacing your ABS module. I got one from the junkyard for about $10 and has been working fine ever since.
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Hope you're still around. I've let the car set for a year. No comp. on #3 cyl. Pulled head, found small 1/2 moon hole over upper edge of piston, enough to see thru inside of ring ID 1/8" wide. Could be caused by carbon buildup on head or heat, (smooth break. Have factory manuals which mostly apply to out of car instructions.
    I've done similar work on a lot of cars, but this one takes the cake.Great craftsmanship in the machine work but design is not for the backyard mechanic.
    Cannot get at the #3 rod to remove piston since upper oilpan has cast inner baffles and cannot remove pan without lifting engine and tran about two inches which might not be possible. Considering removing engine which means removing trans and disconnecting ac lines plus radiator and wiring. Found several difficult to remove items so far. I think the Germans thought they were building a Rolls Royce type car for Cadillac when I see the overkill design techniques in the engineering of this car. That's why I'm drawn to continue, otherwise I'd donate it someplace.
    Any suggestions or ideas are welcome, car is mint otherwise. (sskl) Dave again.
  • bo1bo1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1997 Infiniti J30, three of the doors will not open from thye inside or outside. The fuse is not blown, when i push the control lever on the door panel, i can hear the mechanism work but the doors will not open.Also i can not open them with the manual button or the key. Any suggestions? Bo.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Are you working with a good factory repair manual? Maybe engine R&R is required---don't know, I've never worked on this particular engine and judging from your comments, not sure I want to. At any rate, I don't think this is a job you want to feel your way into---the more tech info you have the better. Maybe you should consider a one-time subscription to ALLDATA (www.alldatadiy.com).
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    Glad your there! Yes, got the original factory set of three manuals. They are not for backyard mechanics. I'm making my way through them. Used to write [non-permissible content removed]'y. planning for NASA, so I have an advantage in interpreting limited explanation etc..

    Seriously thinking about plugging edge hole in piston in engine since the car has 104,000 miles on it. Too much work/cost to go further since there might be other serious problems after this fix.
    Do you know of a JB WELD type material that is recommended. JB WELD is good for 500 degrees, but does not recommend using in combustion chamber.
    Possibility of making a (from salvaged aluminum piston I have) wedge fitted slice bonded behind comp.ring. Have to use my gage building experience for accuracy, bonding is main problem. Slice would be forced into slot by compression, but intake stroke would cause some vacuum. Thanks for the reply; Dave again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Risky business that. If that piston chunks out while your running, it's gonna be ugly in there. You do seem to have your back against the wall here....too hard to go forward, too hard to go back. Maybe if you have other wheels you can take a break and come up with a better strategy for attacking this problem.
  • ssklsskl Member Posts: 45
    You're right, this is my hobby car. It's a challenge, hope not a "Challenger" like catastrophe!
    Will proceed with caution.
    Dave
  • chanun406chanun406 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 2000 Catera. Found out that I had a broken door motor. You can either get it fixed or reach up under the dash on the drivers side (in your case maybe both sides), locate the door with your hand and switch it yourself. I figured that would work fine for me... instead of being automatic, mine is now manuel for the climate control. :) I'm not a mechanic but it was a simple and cheap solution that you can do yourself.
  • chanun406chanun406 Member Posts: 3
    Yesterday the trouble began. I was out-of-town, stopped at a convenience store, came back out and started my car... it ran long enough to put it into drive then it shut off. Tried to start it two more times,dead; then on the fourth try it started and ran fine the rest of the day with starts and stops several times (warm).

    This morning, I went out to start my car, it fired for about a half a second then it shut off. After that, it woudn't start at all, it's completely dead (cold). The dash lights kick on when I turn the key for about a half a second then shut off. Interior light works, headlights won't come on.

    Got any suggestions? Any advise for a fix would be appreciated... I live in rural Montana and don't have a lot of options for mechanics nearby.

    Thanks,
    Blonde and Blue for my Catera.
  • platinumcadplatinumcad Member Posts: 3
    looking to see if there is any replacements for the front brake lines.. ive had a hard time finding them. does anyone know the dimensions of the lines? all ive really found are universal but i dont know the fitting dimensions or the lenght.. please someone help..
  • platinumcadplatinumcad Member Posts: 3
    looking to see if there is any replacements for the front brake lines.. ive had a hard time finding them. does anyone know the dimensions of the lines? all ive really found are universal but i dont know the fitting dimensions or the lenght.. please someone help..
  • speedkraftspeedkraft Member Posts: 4
    Not sure what part of the country your in, but out here in California you could pick up a set from a salvage yard rather then trying to make new lines. Our under car parts last for ever with no issues. If you need asistence with that, let me know, I can send you info on a yard that can help you as they have a few Catera.

    Ben
  • krissy6krissy6 Member Posts: 2
    my cadillac 97 catera is slow accelerating when beginning to drive and then drives normal what maybe the cause
  • krissy6krissy6 Member Posts: 2
    also i have a radiator light coming off and on what could this mean. and also where can i get an owners manual for my car
  • merckxmerckx Member Posts: 565
    The trunk struts on my 2001 Catera won't keep the trunk open anymore. Is there a repair? Or just replace the struts? Is this a difficult job?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Support the rear compartment lid.
    2. Lift up the retainer clips on the strut ends.
    3. Remove the rear compartment lid strut from the hinge.
    4. Repeat step 1 through step 3 to remove the other rear compartment lid strut.

    Installation Procedure

    Notice: Apply pressure only at the end of the liftgate/hood assist rod that you are removing or attaching. Do NOT apply pressure to the middle of the rod because damage or bending will result.

    NOTE: These struts are pricey from Cadillac----you may do better to take one off and try to match it at the auto parts store or shop online.

    1. Install the rear compartment lid strut to the hinge.
    2. Push in on the rear compartment lid strut until it locks in place.
    3. Remove the support from the rear compartment lid.
    4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to install the other rear compartment lid strut.
  • etello88etello88 Member Posts: 7
    edited March 2010
    hello everyone, does anyone know the dimensions of the front and rear rotors. I'm asking because i took it to a shop n they told me to get new rotors because they were under the specifications what the factory states something like that, so it'll be really helpful if someone let me know it...thanx
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited March 2010
    The discard dimension is cast right into the rotors. This is NOT the thickness, however, that you can refinish the rotor to---it's the discard thickness. So the rotors could be above discard limits, but not good enough still for refinishing.

    You can refinish the fronts to 1.043" and the rears to 0.433"
  • hutson68hutson68 Member Posts: 1
    Well, it is under the plenum, top of motor(center, fuel injection area...you must remove it ...then the fun part comes...it is in the front, very tight place, with a nice elbow pipe that must come off(bolted to side of motor) Took me a couple of hours You might have to remove the wiper motor to get the plenum off!
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles