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Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hi I know it looks as though it will be a hard thing to do but it's not 1.one bottle of Prestone supper flush and to coolant drive for a couple of days to get rid of all the junk the other coolant added 2. find heater hoses after you idenfy the proper hoses go and purchase an flush kit also from Prestone connect the tee provided in the kit to heater hose return (make sure engine is cool)this means you must cut the hose and install tee get your garden hose connect to tee as per insturctions remove over flo cap and install spout start car turn on heater full blast turn on water hose let run for 15 to 20 min when you see clean clear water shut off water turn off car and the rest is easy hey you don't happen to have an extra keyless remote you want to sell my wife lost ours ;)
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Best place to get a keyless remote is on EBAY MOTORS (Parts and Accessories)!! It will be less than $20 and that includes shipping and programing instructions. Of course with as many Catera :lemon:'s as there are, you might find someone that has no use for their remotes anymore!! LOL
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hey I forgot all about that thanks and by the way they cars are good cars it's just very $$$$ to fix once all those repairs are done you will see that it will last forever ;)
  • nanasusienanasusie Member Posts: 1
    Greetings

    We have many of the same issues - have you been able to repair the issues?
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    That water thats comming out do you live in an area thats cool clamate all the time. If so that is condensation don't matter about that, but if you live in an warm area worry worry. It Might be an head gasket crack block warp heads. The transmission on the other hand sound like the guy that service it did it wrong ;If he did not tap the low pressure line on the trans cooler and service it that way it Might not have enought transfluid you canot take the pan off to change fluid it is a sealed transmission and it have fill up the torue converter. and listen to your engine is it reving high when step on the breaks that might be an issue or the 3 2 kickdown is not working :confuse:
  • richter1richter1 Member Posts: 8
    I have a '98 Catera with 145.000 miles, yes I said 145.000. last week it started running rough and I put my code code reader on it and the following codes were PO300-random multi cylinder misfire, 301-cylinder 1 misfire, 303-cylinder 3 misfire, 304- cylinder 4 misfire, 305- cylinder 5 misfire, PO134- 02 sensor no curcuit , no activity. i then cleared the data on the cars computer and iot ran fine until the next morning and then the same problem occured, i have to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car running. Any ideas as to where or what to look for?
  • richter1richter1 Member Posts: 8
    I disconnected my battery over night. started the car & it ran rough for about 10 miles. Now it seem to be back to normal again. I was told that my valve covers are leaking. Can coil packs cause this intermitent problem. Could really use some advise on this. thanks
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    It is possible that you have a bad coil pack and then again it could be a crank sensor 1. I would test the coils get an multimeter and test if you get over 20,000 volts or 14.5 kvs 2. since you have a code reader check the timing advance that will determind if you need a crank sensor Good Luck :P
  • hicksjmuhicksjmu Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 Cadillac Catera doesn't blow cold air anymore. The fan still works though.

    I took it into a Cadillac Service Center (in Chantilly, VA) and they told me that I had ZERO freeon in the car (obviously) and that there is a major leak around the Evaporator core and possible around the AC compressor. Bottom line, to fix/replace everything its going to run about $3,500.
    They gave me an alternative option to Evacuate and Recharge the system instead of the new parts which would run about $410, but there is no guarantee this will work & last (it could last for 1week - 1+ year).

    My questions are:
    1) Has anyone had any success with an AC Evacuate and Recharge?
    2) Is it possible that the Cadillac dealer is just vastly over charging me? I'd spend up $1,000 to get my AC working again but not much more.
    2b) If the aforementioned problems are legit, can I trust local auto shop or car AC specialist to get it running again? If so, any suggestions on where to take it?

    Please advise if you have had any experience with this type of issue. So far I've had good luck with my Catera, but there is no way I'm going to put $1,000+ into it just for AC, on the other hand, I'm not ready to give it up yet (it has <60,000 miles!).

    THANKS!
  • bradcadbradcad Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2000 Catera and just recently had the A/C serviced due to only warm air blowing. They found the freon level to be too low... recharged the system... works fine now. They worked hard to find the small leak... but they finally did. Fortunately, I bought an extended warranty that covered the expense.
    As for me... I wouldnt personally trust ANY dealership unless they are willing to put the work and expected results in WRITING. I think they always overcharge... they make a lot of money in the service department. It sounds like you definately have a leak that would waste your $$ on the evaculate/recharge... but that's just my opinion. An evacuate/recharge is typically done when it's suspected that moisture has gotten into the system and it must be pulled out and then replaced with fresh dry freon.
    You might consider getting a second and third opinion at a local A/C shop that's been in business for a long time... perhaps they are fairly honest and reputable.
    Good luck with your A/C work... it stinks not having that working.
    Brad Cad 2000
  • iafarmboyiafarmboy Member Posts: 2
    Lindsay in Alexandria put a new compressor on my Catera and recharged it for about $1100... A reliable third party offered the same service for 2500...
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Go to your local parts store and get the stopleak recharge kit easy to do save lot of$$$$$$$$$$$ ;)
  • richter1richter1 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks Calicago for your reply. Where would I find the crank sensor. I am assuming it is by the Tranny. Also I find that when I get past about 1500 to 2 Grand rpms It feels like it starts to smooth out. Could that still be the crank sensor or coils packs Or anything else. this problem is so unpretciable. I can drive for an hour with no problems, stop, start back up in 10 minutes & it runs real rough & wants to keep stalling. Any other suggestions would be greatly helpful
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Take your time when it comes to the perfomace of your car if it smooth out at 2000 rpms we might have just a tune up issue check plug gaps and do the test I told you about. You should be able to get a crank sensor for the dealer thats if you need it dothat frist and then we will talk good luck :)
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    One extra point that calicago forgot to tell you = you will not find the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor by the "tranny"... Check out my post #549 and it will give you a link to detailed instructions and pics on changing out the CKP and good luck..
  • wondermomwondermom Member Posts: 2
    I have had my used catera for only about 2 years now and while driving the motor goes completely dead and the radiator light is on what can be the problem?
  • wondermomwondermom Member Posts: 2
    It's me again I didn't get to list the rest of my catera problems earlier it also have a knocking noise and upon acceleration it seems as though it stalls and my check engine light is on. I love this car because it is spacious and have a lot of extras that I provided and the dealership as well and I dont want to get rid of it can someone please give me some feed back. I took it to the dealership and they claimed it would cost over $9,000 to fix and I only paid $3,500 so that was out of the question on my income.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    When you drive what do the temp gauge says :confuse: ignore the radiator light what do the temp gauge says? Is your coolant resivor empty?
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hi do you have regular oil changes if so it might be just a timming belt and it should not cost over 1200 :)
  • joejetjoejet Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1997 Catera that has really squeaky back brakes. I just put new pads on the back and also sprayed on some silicon on the back of each disc to keep them from squeaking. I had the same problem with the brakes I just replaced. Can someone tell me if these brakes have any clips that help keep the brakes quite? I'm thinking that something must be missing from the brake assembly when I put it back together.

    If anyone knows what my problem might be, I would greatly appreciate any feedback.

    Thanks,

    Joe
  • bradcadbradcad Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2000 Catera... these cars tend to run a bit hot... they were designed to warm up quickly... German preference I guess... and then should stay right about in the middle of the gauge... but some run a little hotter. Whenever my radiator light has come on (only 2 times over 1 1/2 years) I just add coolant to the overflow tank... light goes off... seems to work. I wouldnt advise ignoring any trouble dash light... check all fluid levels to be safe.
    Brad Cad 2000
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Did you get the rotors cut you might have an high spot on them; and make sure the ware sensors are not rubbing and use a lot of brake clean :)
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Try Shell gas. That is their best premium. That sounds like knocking and the check engine light should have come on. Don't take it in and get codes, they will say that your high mass air needs replacing. This will save you lots of money.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    I have put a new water tank on my 01 catera...... light on dash goes out (water tank level) after several miles light goes back on, and I notice that the tank is indeed low on water...... could this be due to a bad thermostat? OR what do you people think it is/////// the motor temp stays at normal range even in our (al) hot weather...... Thanks Lee.......when I stop the pressure keeps pushing water back into tank, and if I loosen the cap it will over flow ....... thanks again......
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    I doubt that it is a bad thermostat, especially if the water temp is about normal which is usually slightly above the halfway point. The water has to be going somewhere (hopefully NOT into the engine and out the exhaust = bad head gasket, not good!!). Have you watched to see if water is leaking out anywhere? Like possibly a loose hose clamp? If you haven't seen any water leaking anywhere, is it possible that when you changed the tank, that some air was left in the system and the water you're adding is replacing the air? If this was the case, eventually the water level will stay steady and the light will not come on. Just my thoughts. Good luck. PS: You might also check the heater control valve which is between the engine and firewall toward the passenger side. These are notorious for going bad on Cateras....
  • jsysouvanhjsysouvanh Member Posts: 4
    lol dude too good i can't do a burn out and i tried my best to wreck it but the worst i got is the ditch and a flat :D

    oh and a part that can't even handle the presser the water pump puts out o think that the prob but i thinkl the parts i got are old and no good so hay i say buy i got the sports pack like MIB? i took apart the gear selcter and painted the lil button red

    :D i fly but i don't leave the ground :P :shades:
  • jsysouvanhjsysouvanh Member Posts: 4
    ok i got a 97~99 and i am in a bit of a bind i got a part in my car(part of the coolant system) and it keeps bustin open like a...a....a... it blows open is the best way to say it but i need the part all i need is the name and im good but i got a small prob with that too...whats the avg. price? my dad got lucky in the junk yard in omaha,NE but the car is tooooo new to be in the junk yard so we can't FIND IT! this is driving me mad i want to use my lil red button agian :( i miss racing in it! i am now driving a 96 plymouth mini van tv, xbox, fan, converter, the life on the road right? wrong all white van? nicknamed "The sperm" so if u can help me that be a GREAT help ty!
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Hard to help you without knowing where abouts the part is. Can you describe where the part that keeps blowing open is (front of engine, behind engine, driver or passenger side of engine????
  • acurryacurry Member Posts: 27
    i have an 2000 catera i had a hairline crack in the radiator, so i got that replaced. also the hot water control vavle has gone bad three time fluid leaks when i turn off the car and also had the heater hose replaced once. i think it sounds like your water control vavle like i said i have been through three i guess its a poor made part. goodluck
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    before I changed the tank the water light would come on about 5 minutes after starting the car...... there is no sign of fluid loss ( on the floor) and we have used the car with the light on for weeks or months.... level SEEMS to go to a low point and stay there... no problems with performance.....but the tank IS low on fluid..... might try to purge the system of air, etc... eh. Can fill it (the tank) and it seems to loose a given amount and stay LOW.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    this morning I checked the storage bottle and it was right up to the "cold" line. I started the car, let it idle and then checked under the car..... ah-ha... there was a dripping of fluid on the floor, seems to be at the rear of the engine area. could not crawl under the car, but there it is.... will try to jack up the car and check underneth it .... what and where should I look spicificly please.... wow we may be getting near the end of my quest, eh..... thanks for all your help, guys...... Lee
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    99.9% positive that it is your heater control valve. I don't think you can get one at the auto parts store and you will have to get it at your local Cardiac (arrest LOL) dealer and it will be right around $90 to $95. Not too bad to change out yourself if you've done simple mechanics. If you have it done at the dealer it will be in the area of a $500 bill. Good luck.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    gngurdu ..... whew,, thanks... so how much of the motor do I need take apart to work on the replacement, I mean.. where is it, and how do we get to it... do we need to disassemble the top half of the motor, or what...(S) again thanks.. Lee
    could you kinda talk me through it.... thanks.. ( I would not mind doing it if I knew where to start........( other than opening up the hood (s))....lee
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    I'm just getting ready to go a a 500 mile day trip but when I get back this evening I can give you detailed instructions and maybe even pics on how to do it. No, you don't have to take any of the motor apart..LOL It is between the motor and the firewall and I believe it has 3 hoses attached to it. If you look at your radiator resevoir tank you will see two 3/4 " black hoses running back to the firewall from just in front of the tank and below it. The top hose goes to the heater comtrol valve so that will tell you where it is. I'll write more detailed instructions or send you a link to replace it later.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    ,man, you sure do have the CATERA down pat.... appreciate all the trouble you are going through for me... again THANKS...... I will keep checking. My wife and I are well into our 70's +++++ and she won't let a thing keep her from her Cat. she loves that car, and so do I... Lee
  • jsysouvanhjsysouvanh Member Posts: 4
    back its a lil part of the colling system and it small ill send you a pic if u like thanks
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Hey there..;;;hope the trip went ok..... my email addy is lvandam1@bellsouth.net
  • janetmillionjanetmillion Member Posts: 1
    Hi, gnguru... sounds like you're a bit of an expert. Can you offer me some advice?

    My Catera - only in the Summer - will not re-start for 20 - 45 mins after I've driven it for awhile. I don't have heat coming from the passenger dash in the Winter, but at least it doesn;t stall out. It's driving me crazy! I've already replaced the radiator and I do still have a coolant leak.

    I just can't afford to pay the dealership repair prices but I need to keep this car running for another 4 - 6 months,.

    Please, please, please help.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    LOL - Well, thanks for the compliment. I don't know about "expert" but I'll give it my best shot. Actually the "gn" stands for Buick Grand National but my Mom has a Catera and that's where I've gotten most of my experience. Anyway, back to your car. As for the not starting, have you ever replaced the crankshaft position sensor (CPS)? What kind of mileage does the car have on it? As for heat on passenger side, I have to ask you, you do realize that the car has dual controls and I assume you know the passenger control is on, right? Believe it or not I had a gal that couldn't get heat or AC on passenger side of car but didn't realize it was dual control!! LOL Assuming you're alittle smarter than her, it is probably going to be a vacuum operated door under the dash that is stuck but we'll look at that later. As for the leak, can you start the car up and watch for where the water is coming from? As you've seen in previous posts the heater control valves are notorious for going bad and leaking. They are very hard to see but if in fact it is leaking, the water would be dripping down back by the firewall between the engine and transmission. Let me know what you find out.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Sounds like "the answerman" is still on the job. Gee, I was gonna ask "do you take " Medi-care" (s) and LOL. . I would advise anyone with a catera problem to give you some ear, a big ear. Like I have told you, my wife will not even think of retiring her Catera... and to tell you the truth neither would I. I have a valve on order from gmpartsdirect, and the price was very reasonable. Again I will thank you in public for all your help, and will keep in touch..
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Hey gnguru how are guy. you say you have an grand national turbo or did you put a three fifty five in it like so many other guys do or did you change the heads and cam us the TRW pistons moog rings up dated turbo and waste gate and intercooler with a 200 shot of nos or just stock oh by the way you are right about the heater control valve they made them out of very cheap material that the coolant they use cause a very high rate of electrolesis it destroy the control valve.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    I don't want to tie up the Cadillac Catera forum with Buick Grand National chit chat. Your title says "need your advice" but I don't see any specific questions and really not sure if your comments are serious or you're being facetious. However, I have two Grands. I did not put a 355 in either of them. They are NOT stock by any means. Engines have been completely redone including bored out using the original blocks. One of them has an in front of the radiator intercooler. No NOS. Didn't need it. They each turn easy very low 11's and can do mid to high 10's with racing slicks. Didn't really build them up to race them at the drag strip. Just like to eat a Mustang off the street for lunch now and then. LOL If you want to chat more about Grand Nationals you can email me at gnguru@hotmail.com and put Grand National in the subject. Cheers
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Sorry about that mate soon as I saw grand national I forgot my question to you anyway my wifes 99 catera is having a wheel viberation issue the breakes are ok rotors ok might need to go with a brembo system later upper and lower control arms and ball joints seem up to par the tie rods they look spot on even the spendle looks tops but if you are going 65mph or 50mph for that matter it feels as though the wheels are going back and forth shaking very badly is their something im over looking :confuse:
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Oh yeeah I forgot to tell you the tires are new hankooks no broken belts and the wheels are balanced
  • blk00caterablk00catera Member Posts: 10
    Were the wheels balanced after or before the problem occured? I have had similar problems twice.

    The first time it was a wheel weight an automatic car wash took off.

    The second time was gravel built up on the inside of my rim behind the "spokes". (I live on a gravel road.) I have to wash these nearly every time after it rains or else the gravel will build up and cause the car to shake on the highway. I have aftermarket konig rims so this may not be an issue with the factory rims ( I had nothing but problems with my factory rims after 100k)

    I've heard many Catera owners complain about tie rod problems (I think there might of even been a recall on earlier models) but I dont think it would cause the car to shake that badly. Sounds like a problem in the wheel/tire area but that just my .02

    Best of luck.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Before and after allthough I did here something about the opel sport having a problem like this when you get into the turn at 120klm or at 80 klm the wheels shake like crazy I have to look that up . But I did here about cateras tie rods maybe I over look something when I checked it out. :confuse:
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Hey Gnguru.... in all our discussion about the catera.. I did not mention that the motor computer went out on me, and one mech. thought it might need a throttle body because of the "readings" Well I found one, bought it and then came to findout that It was not the throttle unit, but the main computer...... SOOOOO I just happen to have a good used THROTTLE BODY for a catera. If you know of any one who needs one, let me know.... the Price will be less than I paid for it (used). and in the process of fixing mine swapped it out and found that it is ok. thanks Lee.........
  • emmanuelmemmanuelm Member Posts: 5
    I had an oil change and a timing chain repair on my 1997 cadi catera a couple of weeks ago, now the car is leaking oil only when I am driving the car. I do smell it but I can't see it. When I took it to my mechanic he just wants me to sell the car because he does not want to mess with it again I think. I don't want to because the car is clean and I have spent a lot of money on it already. Can somebody tell me what might be wrong?
  • joestarcjoestarc Member Posts: 2
    My wife's Catera was rear ended. Right after that, the Radiator Light started coming on and staying on. The insurance compay says that they won't pay to fix it UNTIL an approved mechanic detemines why the light is on. Of course, the insurance company wants me to pay up front for the diagnostic. If it's determined to be caused by the accident, they will reimburse me.

    I asked what exactly will the mechanic find that will prove proofpositive that the accident caused the light to comeon. The reply, "Well, they probably won't be able to tell!!!"

    Call me simple minded, but the light was not coming on before the accident. Right after the accident it is coming on. What else could be causing it???
  • joestarcjoestarc Member Posts: 2
    I am on my third battery for my 2001 Cadillac Catera. I made a simple request to Cadillac:

    - I would like reimbursement for my time, the mechanics time, the battery replacement costs, the portable charger I carry in my car, and the frustration my family has experienced (including the failure of the car to start while in a funeral procession).

    - In addition, I would like a promise of reimbursement for future charges for similar expenses.

    Why? Based on what my mechanic shared with me regarding Bulletin Number 02-06-03-008C dated May 30, 2007. Basically, the design of the charging system fails to properly charge the battery when the vehicle is used for its intended purpose, daily driving.

    Their response to date is that they would like me to take it to an authorized dealership to have the car checked out, at MY expense. My response was
    I used my neighborhood mechanic, whom I have been using for the past 25 years. He is as honest as the day is long. He is located within walking distance of my home and employer and is on my way to work. As such, when I experience things that appear to battery related, I used him. I do us the local Cadillac Dealership on larger issues. I told them that I am sure that you can pull up the complete list of problems that they have repaired. If absolutely necessary, I will take the car to them. I would prefer not to be further inconvenienced by having to schedule time with them. Last year, they had my vehicle for close to 10 days.

    As such, I indicated that if you would do the diagnostic at no cost to me, I'd be happy to take it to the dealership.

    Their response was, no I'd have to pay for it.

    So, Service Bulletin notwithstanding, they want to inconvenience me further and make me pay more to boot.

    I told them I was not satisfied and asked who I could talk with further. They told me someone would be contacting me within 24 hours. Well 24 hours, then 24 days, and now close to 24 weeks have passed by. Guess what, I have heard nothing.

    What do you know about the referenced service bulletin??? Am I being unrealistic???
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