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Fuel and Oil Additives

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually this sales pitch is a very common approach. How it works is that you start with a reasonably valid scientific principle, such as "ideal air/fuel ratio is about 14.7:1". Then you twist it gingerly into a non-scientific claim, such as "Our product, 'Fourteen Plus', uses micro-filtering to insure that this ratio is maintained at all times, regardless of either atmosphere or internal engine conditions".
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    http://newenergyandfuel.com/http:/newenergyandfuel/com/2008/03/26/man-made-enzym- es-for-oil-and-medicine/

    discusses creating an enzyme for a specific chemical reaction in which a proton in the form of a positively charged hydrogen atom is removed from carbon, a well-known and demanding step in many chemical processes.

    Could enzymes help with oil shale processing or other conversion tasks?

    Just because StarTron "enzymes" :lemon: appear to be a bust doesn't mean the whole enzyme concept is worthless.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    edited March 2010
    Could enzymes help with oil shale processing or other conversion tasks?

    Sure, maybe.

    Just because StarTron "enzymes" appear to be a bust doesn't mean the whole enzyme concept is worthless.

    Of course it doesn't. Enzymes perform very real rolls in many chemical processes, including many of those that go on at the cellular level and so are responsible for life. The issue here is whether the enziomatic claims of products like StarTron are true or not, and whether such products really deliver what they claim.

    The article you referenced states that "The principal effect is that reactions can take place thousands of even millions of times faster". If I remember my college chemistry correctly, the primary characteristic of an enzyme is that it helps a particular reaction take place, but is not itself used up in the process. So a small amount of enzyme is reused many times in a chemical process.
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    This is my first post, go easy on me. This question could be for almost any car but I do own a 1995 Saturn, 4cyl. For around two years, it blows out a TON of grey smoke. So thick, its still in the air seven minutes later. Yes, I keep up on the oil changes and no, it does not need oil added.

    It does have over 330,000 miles. I can not afford a new car. My question.....is there an additive I can put in with the oil, even if it reduces the smoke? I did try a couple brands but it made no difference. Any help guys would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,704
    At 330,000 miles, it's worn out. You could try 'Restore' oil additive, couldn't hurt, might help a little.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So which IS it burning---it's either gas or oil or water in substantial amounts. Smoke comes from somewhere.
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Sorry, its burning oil. I put in around 1.5 quarts a week. It burns it, no leaks. Steve
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Ah, okay.

    Yeah, it's just internal engine wear, and there's nothing in a can that replaces worn metal. Sooner or later your neighbors will appear with pitchforks and torches at your front door, but until then, you can drive a car that burns oil a long long time without a catastrophe, as long as you keep oil in it.

    Have you considered a good used engine---if the rest of the car is tip top, that might be considerably cheaper than buying an entirely new/used car.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    In your case, there is little if anything you can do for your engine that will come out of a can. As I see it you have the following three options

    1) Live with the oil consumption (and maybe throw in a hotter set of plugs which can sometimes eliminate much of the smoke)

    2) Overhaul your engine; I'm thinking that you can probably have the cylinders bored out to .030", have the head refreshed, have the crank polished, buy new pistons, rings, bearings, and gaskets, for under $700. If you don't have access to a set of good tools and such, you'll most likely be able to rent what you need and still keep the job well under a grand.

    3) Buy and install a used engine from a bone yard. This may take a bit of shopping but you should be able to take this route and do the entire job for as little as two to three hundred dollars.

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
    Shipo
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Thanks guys. The worse (but kind of funny) is at a red light with motorcycles behind me. I hit the gas and it looks like these bike gangs are about to kill me. They actually pull off to the side for a minute or two before moving on. I've made people standing at the bus stop pewk but hey, not much I can do. When it first starts up in the morning (cold engine) it runs pretty good for a while but after that.......its unreal. Steve
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Try a hotter set of sparkplugs, that has worked for me in the past. Simply take the plugs that you have and up the number portion of the plug identifier one or two (or even three). Back in the 1970s Chevy Vegas were notorious for laying down a smoke screen, and hotter plugs almost always worked to kill off the smoke until the owner was able to have the block bored, sleeved and rebuilt.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually if you do that to obnoxious types of motorcycles, I"ll chip in for your oil! :P
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Agree with the hotter plugs. In addition, change the oil to a heavier weight. If using 10/30, go to a 20/50 weight. Not a fix method of course, but will buy time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't use any STP-type products if you plan on rebuilding the engine. That stuff really gunks up an engine inside and it'll make the rebuilder pretty mad. :P
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Thanks! You mean the round "gap gage" thing? (lol, sorry, I only know a little). Make the gap a little more apart on the plugs? Steve
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    No, what we're talking about are different plugs altogether. If you pull your spark plugs out you'll see an alpha-numeric code in the side of the plug; buy another set that has the numeric portion a couple of numbers higher.
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Ok, I got it. Thank you sir. Steve
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I imagine at some point the OP will have to get the car inspected. I can't imagine it passing the emissions test?
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Its a 95, no testing for it. I'll try the different oil and different plugs. Even if it helps a little, I'll take it. Steve
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    I bought this oil (good?) >> GTX 20W-50. $4.40 a quart. I'll get the plugs soon. Steve
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    Castrol dino GTX @ 4.40 a quart? Where are you located?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    If your engine is buring as much as it sounds like it's burning, then you really shouldn't spend too much money on oil; pretty much the cheapest stuff they have in the store will do.
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    "Castrol dino GTX 4.40 a quart? Where are you located?" >>> Milw., WIS
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    You should check prices at autoparts chains(Pep Boys, Advance, etc), and/or Walmart.

    That's a good oil, but way way high on cost. Last time I bought synthetic at Walmart, it was less than that.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    You should check prices at autoparts chains(Pep Boys, Advance, etc), and/or Walmart.

    That's a good oil, but way way high on cost. Last time I bought synthetic at Walmart, it was right at that price point.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Sounds the best to me assuming the rest of the car is in good shape.

    Trouble is the wrecking yards have become very expensive.

    Don't worry about the guys on motorcycles. It's good for them!

    If you happen to get a motorcycle COP behind you it'll be a different story.

    Seriously, it a cop pulls you over and gives you an equipment violation you will be forced into doing something immediatly.

    330,000 miles, you have done well!
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    I hope you guys dont mind me putting this concern here, thank you. The car over heats quite easliy these days (same car, 95 Saturn Wagon). Its only 70 outside and sitting at red lights...I over heat.

    I do have a perfect level of coolant until of course it comes out the overflow, then I put a little more in. I THINK the problem might be the thermostat. What do you guys think, I value your opinion. Are they kind of easy to replace? I guess I could get a buddy to do it. Thanks, Steve
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Thermostat is the first thing I would replace.

    Don't know about your Saturn in particular, but on many engines the thermostat is near the front/top of the engine, where the big top hose from the radiator connects to. Usually have to drain a bit of the coolant first to keep it from coming out from the thermostat housing.

    Yes, it's definitely a project you should be able to tackle yourself, or with a bit of help.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I would replace the thermostat. These are cheap and the job shouldn't be too hard.

    Just don't put it in upside down...this happens!

    Also, make sure your electric fan (s) are working too. Pretty common cause of overheating when they stop working.
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Is this true? >>> If you are over heating, put the heat on full blast? Not sure how that would help but I heard that tip years ago. Steve
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited April 2010
    To a certain extent----not if you are actually already overheated...then you STOP and call a tow truck. But if you are idling in traffic and the heat gauge is getting up there---yeah, putting on the heater might help to keep the car from tipping over into the red.

    Of course, if your car has an idiot light, by the time THAT goes on, you just turn off the key.

    Speaking of additives, if your car has a tendency to get hot, but not actually overheat, you can try "Water Wetter", which is often used in racing. Unlike much additive mumbo-jumbo, this actually does work.
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    What is 'Water Wetter'?

    Steve
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    WATER WETTER
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Thanks, I went to the auto store and read the bottle. My DUMB question of the week......It says to pour into radiator. I dont have a radiator cap, everything gets poured into the overflow container. Lets say I put it in and it starts to overflow from the heat. Wouldn't it just end up back on the ground? Steve
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Are you SURE you don't ahve a radiator cap? never heard of not having one.

    I wouldn't waste my ,money on that stuff. Any positive effect would be marginal at best.
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Nope. Even a few of the newer cars do not have a radiator cap. Coolant/water goes into the overflow container (or out, lol). Steve
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Well, I had a new thermostat put in and I used 'Water Wetter'. It still gets to the halfway mark for overheating and its only 43 degrees outside. lol So maybe the fan or water pump? I need to get the car running great before it gets warm again. I only had this issue when it hit 75 outside. Steve
  • misterzzmisterzz Member Posts: 15
    Well guys, its been a few weeks. I now use a thick oil, an oil additive and hotter spark plugs were put in. No difference at all but thanks for all the help, it is much appreciated! Other than the smoke (and over heating) the car actually runs 'good'. I'll get something different before next winter. Steve
  • pipfindrpipfindr Member Posts: 34
    Has anyone tried putting in Methyl Hydrate with diesel to clean injectors before??
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,704
    "methyl hydrate" is methanol. I don't know about mixing it with diesel, I imagine there are diesel-specific fuel system treatments available that don't require experimenting with chemicals that might damage your fuel system plastics.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Well it's been a while but the folks at ASL Camguard are finally releasing their automotive version. The differences from the aircraft-biased product are addition of friction modifiers that are claimed to reduce engine wear by 80%.

    As of yet there is no info on the Camguard web site about Auto Camguard (the site has been slow to be updated), but those who contact the primary distributor (who is the primary sponsoring developer) can order it. The chemist who developed it is Ed Kollin (former head chemist of Exxon) and there is a video there explaining the product.

    I'm just posting the info folks. ;)
  • mom0423mom0423 Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2002 Honda Accord 6 cyl and its in Florida. I've heard that in hot areas you should try to keep a full tank of gas to prevent condensation in the fuel tank. It this a myth or truth? I just filled it up and noticed an engine knocking at acceleration. Will a fuel additive help with this by chance? I love this forum. It's always been a great help. Thanks!
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,704
    With all the vapor controls on cars, you don't need to worry about condensation. And worry even less in hot areas, not much condensing going on, anyway.

    As for the knocking, if it's loud get to a mechanic soon. If it's barely noticeable I'd try filling up with premium after it gets to a half tank and see if it goes away.

    Is the 'check engine light' (or any warning light) on?
  • anumber1anumber1 Member Posts: 1
    In 1983 I bought in San Diego, CA a glass bottle of Motor Purr power steering stop leak and put it into my 1978 Ford Fairmont with power rack & pinion steering, which had been leaking. A repair shop mechanic had estimated that the rebuild of the power rack would be about $600. Within a few days the power steering fluid leak stopped and there was no adverse side effect in the performance of my steering. I had the car for some time afterward and the steering stayed leak-free up to the day I sold the car. As I recall, the bottle indicated that Motor Purr was based in northern California, perhaps Sacramento. I live in South Carolina now and I'd like to know how to buy their products if the company is still extant. There seems to be some indication that they're still around.
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,704
    Sounds like typical snake oil. Or you're advertising it.
  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Member Posts: 381
    yup
  • texasestexases Member Posts: 10,704
    What claims are made (I'm not about to click the link)?
    If it's anything more than a fuel system cleaner, you've almost certainly wasted your money. Hundreds of gas additives have come and gone, often with amazing claims, all proven to be worthless as far as fuel economy goes.
  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Member Posts: 381
    He's spamming other sites with his snake oil too, lol
  • carboy21carboy21 Member Posts: 760
    Sea foam has worked wonders for my 1999 4Runner. Smooth and purring like a cat :smile:
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