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Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance

13

Comments

  • dtylerdtyler Member Posts: 1
    -->It makes even less sense to spend several times the price for a full synthetic, and not prefill the filter.

    In response to that comment from post #106.....At startup, the oil pressure is high enough that the filter is bypassed anyway, so it does not matter if it is prefilled or not.

    Full synthetics do cost more, but they provide a level of lubrication that cannot be attained with conventional oil, and more importantly, don't break down as fast as conventional oil (so that 5W-30 you put in keeps its 30 ability and you aren't stuck with 5 weight oil protecting your engine). This has to do with the polymer chains in the oil.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    I don't know what the Taco 60k mile service calls for (new plugs? trans service?).

    One thing you might want to do at every 30k mile interval is change out the coolant.
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    I disagree.

    First- there is zero oil pressure when you first start, unless you have your engine equipped with an electric oil pump or one of the accumulator systems that were marketed to minimize the risk of damage to turbocharger bearings in the 1980s. (Most main-stream mfrs do not equip engines with those.) If you want to see it for yourself, change the oil and filter on your engine, turn on the ignition but don't start, allowing the instruments to come on line. Then start the engine and watch the oil pressure gage start at zero and build to operating pressure. No gage- watch you oil pressure warning light when you start. It will certainly stay on longer after an oil and filter change if you don't prefill the filter than after a normal start.

    Synthetics vs. conventional- the chains are essentially the same, it is just that a higher percentage of them will be of the same length/viscosity. Synthetics are assembled from the same source as conventional motor oils, the chemical bonds are identical - no magic here. So, the same shearing will occur in a synthetic as a conventional oil, albeit you will technically start with more of them at the "ideal". Nevertheless, by the time you've done the mechanical shearing of enough of the chains in conventional oils to be an issue, the oil is already suffering from contamination and should be changed. To use a synthetic to prolong the interval, merely means you drive with progressively contaminated oil for a longer time.
    One place where this MIGHT be worthwhile would be with an engine burning propane or LPG and running a significant amount of mileage. Since the engine is much cleaner burning, fewer contaminants are making their way into the oil. If we're not talking about short trips that allow for more condensation to accumulate, as well as time for the contaminants to form acids, then a synthetic could be used to extend the interval between changes without risking damage from contamination.

    The oil has 3 enemies - contamination, oxidation, and mechanical shear. A synthetic is not anymore contaminant tolerant than a conventional oil.
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    Follow the owner's manual that came with the vehicle -but do what it tells you to do.

    Dealers increasingly use marketing methods that list all sorts of services for an "X thousand mile service" at a given price. The list makes it look like you're getting your money's worth, but often these services are not called for as frequently by the mfr's manual (and who does the testing and design, your dealer or the mfr?), and sometimes the listed items aren't even applicable. (I really like the one in the booklet from my wife's Honda dealer where they list lubricating the U-Joints. First, most passenger cars and vans have been equipped w/ permanently lubed U-Joints since the 1980s and more importantly, the vehicle is front wheel drive so it HAS NO U-Joints!)

    Use the manual's list of services, then get pricing from the dealer on each of those services that apply. Now you can compare those with prices from other sources that you trust.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    "Dealers increasingly use marketing methods that list all sorts of services for an "X thousand mile service" at a given price. The list makes it look like you're getting your money's worth, but often these services are not called for as frequently by the mfr's manual (and who does the testing and design, your dealer or the mfr?), and sometimes the listed items aren't even applicable. "

    My local Subaru dealer does this. They offer a $600 30k "special" where 80% of the items are either "if applicible", and they aren't, or are "inspect" checkoffs. I sometimes wonder if "inspect" in dealereze means check off the box from the desk.

    If you actually followed Subaru's guide, the service would be $125, AT MOST, at dealership prices, maybe $45-55, with your labor and OEM parts.

    Read the manual like msibille recommends. I'm a self maintainer who has no problems going to a pro when necessary. Many dealerships are simply out for a money grab.
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    5150,

    I know it's been a few months since your post, but here's what I hope will help you and others: My '93 2wd pickup with the 22RE 4-cyl engine & manual trans. just turned 210,000 miles. I've had it since 100,750 and my experience regarding your questions has been the following (use at your own risk, consult a professional mechanic first):

    1) When should i change the distributer and plug wires? I changed mine at 208,000 miles. No noticeable improvement in gas mileage, but they look better. I think the truck has more power, maybe.

    2) Can I switch to platinum plugs like Bosch's 4+? I only use the original NGK spec in mine. $6.00 at local parts store but they only last about 15,000 to 20,000 miles. I clean them every 10,000 miles or sooner sometimes if the idle gets rough.

    3) Do I really need to repack/grease the wheel bearings every 30k miles? No. I repacked mine once at 162,000 when I replaced my front rotors, and the wheel bearings (and brakes) have been fine since.

    4) Next to the brake master cylinder there's a small reservoir. Is that for the clutch fluid? When should this be changed? Yes. I change the clutch fluid by bleeding the system every 2 or 3 years.

    5) What else do I need to do to keep this baby running to 400k miles so I can jump and say "Oh, what a feeling?" The following:

    Long trips over 8 hours at a time are one of the things that keep my truck running like new. At least once or twice a year I try to do this New England to DC, Georgia, or Minnesota are great for it. What helps mine is to run it up the long steep hills at WOT (wide open throttle) in high gear - low RPMs, and slow increase in speed, but WOT. Just a few of these and I can tell all the carbon is gone & I have a new truck again. The accelerator gets so much more responsive!

    Clean the throttle body with Gumout or equivalent every 20 to 30,000 miles. I use a toothbrush to get into the throttle plate - but be careful! And replace the air filter. I clean my air filter (shake out and vacuum) and the box it sits in every 5 to 10,000 miles (costs nothing but my time).

    Change the oil when it gets dark brown. Don't let it get black and funny smelling. I change mine every 3,000 miles in the winter, and 4,000 miles in the summer (with long highway trips).

    I let my truck warm up some, even in the summer. I know this is a religious issue, and I waste gas, but I'm the one whose laughing all the way to the bank in a truck that's destined for 300,000 miles! I don't start out until the idle has come down and the exhaust starts to vibrate & drone a bit. 3 to 4 minutes in the winter, at least 1 minute in the summer.

    I try to change *all* fluids every 3 years, including brake fluid, manual transmission oil, antifreeze, and rear axle fluid. Haven't done the power steering fluid yet, but I had better this summer. Still smells good (not burnt).

    If your key stops working, have the dealer parts guy (or lady) cut you a new key. Don't let someone tell you you need a new lock. Heck, get a new key cut anyway - it feels great to use!

    If you have trouble shifting, check your shifter bushings at the bottom of the stick before you let someone tell you you need a new clutch or transmission. If you are having trouble shifting or the truck won't stay in a gear (usually 3rd), you can test for this by lifting up a slight bit on the shifter while attempting to shift. If it goes into gear, your shifter seat bushing is probably worn. Mine gave out at 177,100 miles. Unbolt the cover containing the shifter lever carefully, and replace it yourself. Part costs $7. at the Toyota dealer. I learned the hard way at a repair shop that diagnosed & replaced the clutch first that was not needed (bozos-r-us) before diagnosing myself with the help of a friendly Toyota parts department employee - they can be one of your trucks best friends.

    Watch the brake fliud "load sense proportioning valve" located on your rear axle for leakage. Mine gave out around 170,000 miles. Cost is around $120. at the Toyota dealer, about the only place you can get one. It is essentially a rear master cylinder that doesn't hold much fluid but redirects more braking force to the rear wheels when the truck is loaded.

    Well that about it in a nutshell. One more thing - even with the best maintenance you can do, nothing will kill your truck faster than a wreck. So one more thing I do to make my truck last is avoid accidents!!

    Hope this helps,
    - Paul
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    bayvilla,

    Sorry for the delayed response. Yes, that was the problem I had when my shifter bushing disintegrated. Lift up as you shift into gear, and if it goes in, your shifter bushing is probably in little bits & pieces. New seat at Toyota dealer costs around $7. I seriously doubt that you need a new mount on the transmission - the sagging is probably that your bushing seat has been worn to bits by years of rowing through the gears.

    [non-permissible content removed] luck!

    - Paul
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    mauigrom23,

    The fuel filter on the '93 (and probably '94) 22-RE 4cyl is under the intake manifold. You can't see it from the top of the engine or the bottom. Not fun to replace. It's been over 100,000 miles since mine was changed (at 106,000 miles) and I'm still trying to put it off longer! No decrease in performance so far.

    - Paul
  • jtressjtress Member Posts: 1
    The easiest way to get to the oil filter is to remove the drivers side tire. Behind the tire is a rubber dirt guard that has plastic pins that hold it on. These pins pull right out. Pull the dirt guard back and right in front of you is the oil filter.

    The plastic bag under the filter is a very good idea. Thanks for the tip.

    Jeremy
  • docb360docb360 Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 4Runner came with 17" aluminum wheels. I have not been able to find any suitable D or E rated truck tires so I have purchased OEM 16" wheels. The problem is the low tire pressure sensors in the 17" wheels. The parts manager at my dealership says I cannot install these in the steel wheels, so I assume I'll have to put up with a "low pressure" flashing light on the instrument panel as long as I have the steel wheels on. Any help or suggestions will be most appreciated.
  • tacoma420tacoma420 Member Posts: 1
    Ya those new tacoma's are SWEET...

    hey, it seems like you know what your talking about. i have a 96 4x4 tacoma, and was wondering what normal maintenance i should be doing on it. Such as gear oil..differential etc..

    i am new to maintaining a truck on my own, so i would like any input you have

    thanks
  • hmmmwhyhmmmwhy Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: running ruff so want to change filter but can't find it can you help ? thanks
  • hmmmwhyhmmmwhy Member Posts: 2
    runs good when first stared then starts to choke and is hard to get going from a stop with out reving the motor
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    On my '85 it was on the frame, back near the tank. Follow the lines forward from the tank.
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    "Ya those new tacoma's are SWEET...

    hey, it seems like you know what your talking about. i have a 96 4x4 tacoma, and was wondering what normal maintenance i should be doing on it. Such as gear oil..differential etc..

    i am new to maintaining a truck on my own, so i would like any input you have "

    Sorry for the delayed response, I've been out of the country a bit for the last few wks. I guess I know a little (I've got 25yrs experience as a mechanical engineer, and have a little over 30 yrs experience maintaining family vehicles), but I'm not a professional auto mechanic.

    First and foremost - Follow the mfr's recommended service intervals.
    Second- if you have it serviced by someone else, CHECK their work. I'd like to know how many times I've found missing fasteners, components not remounted on brackets under the hood, cables not reattached to standoffs (that prevent them from chaffing on drive belts!), etc. Look for missing parts, even "minor things" like splash shields, etc. You can bet your bottom dollar, that building hundreds of thousands of vehicles, the mfr would not include a 5 cent splash shield (at a cost of thousands of dollars over a year's production) if it served no purpose. DON'T let that "mechanic" tell you otherwise. The real pros that know their fecal matter wouldn't tell you that these parts aren't needed -they would reinstall them as intended. Don't let some high school graduate behind the svc desk tell you that "This is the grade oil we recommend." when it is different from what the mfr. states. I would bet most dealerships, much less self appointed "svc desk experts" who haven't turned a wrench, have done ZERO analysis and testing of that engine with various lubricants, while the mfr spends big bucks on both.

    If the mfr's recommendation is to replace the fluid - do it.

    That's the biggest of it.
  • ase1gearhdase1gearhd Member Posts: 3
    try conicelli auto plex.just google conicelli. their becoming my regular parts people I dont have any complaints
  • southernladysouthernlady Member Posts: 1
    My scheduled maintenance calls for replacing manual tranny oil, but my mechanic nor the parts places can find what oil it needs? Anyone know?THANK YOU!!
    Could also really use the type for rear differential too. Ooops that spelling looks BAD. :) :confuse:
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    I had a surprise this weekend. Just for kicks, I plugged in my Equus 3100 OBDII Code Reader. (Ya know, the ones that are supposed to work w/ 1996 and newer vehicles marked OBDII?) Well, though the sticker under the hood says OBDII, it seems that the 2005 4litre V6 may be one of those new OBDII CAN systems.

    When I tried my reader, I just got "Err".

    Anybody know for sure?
    I see the "new" 3110 is equipped for both (I just bought my 3100 in Dec'04 for $100). For $200 I can get the new one. ARGH! And w/ the orig OBD, I could just short two pins on the connector and read the code right off the flashing MIL lamp. Looks like everytime I turn around, someone wants another $100 or $200 out of my pocket. -AND THEY'RE NOT EVEN MY KIDS! ;) :confuse:
  • blueknight1120blueknight1120 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Tacoma V6 4x4 ext cab. mileage 87940 all highway miles. Is it time to replace the timing belt? If so, should I have all the other belts replaced since the mechanic has to pull them off anyway? Do I need genuine Toyota parts? And finally should I let the dealer do it? I also have concerns about the water pump but I have not observed any fluids leaking from it. Never had a problem yet with it. Just want to maintain the truck so it lasts. Thanks
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    As a minimum, follow the owner's manual maintenance schedule.

    However, as a rule, I replace all rubber hoses and belts under the hood every 5 yrs.
    (and when I've backed off on that, I've regretted it)

    As far as OEM parts, no, not necessarily. But I wouldn't just go to the cheapest aftermarket (online or brick&mortar) and take what they give me. ASK for the brand they offer. If it's not a major, reputable name brand, go on to the next option.
    (Aftermarket electrical components and hoses and belts of lower quality are sometimes sold by the low price chains. Even for the electrics that have "lifetime warranties", the savings aren't worth the trouble of replacing them over and over. As for hoses and belts, they are relatively cheap compared to the trouble they can cause, and labor for timing belts is such that a free replacement belt is of little help.)

    If you replace all the belts now, you can look over the used parts and if they look pretty good, keep as emergency spares.

    As for the water pump, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. True, you can expect water pumps to fail between 70k and 200k, but they usually aren't catastrophic failures. They begin to leak a bit. If you maintain the coolant levels, it's an inconvenience, not a disablement of the vehicle. That pump may last you as long as you own the vehicle. Once it begins to weep, replace it.
  • bbrashierbbrashier Member Posts: 1
    Hey mikeentexas if you are still out there did you find out how to adjust 2002 Tacoma headlights? :confuse:
  • pjsmanpjsman Member Posts: 2
    Checked error codes, when check engine light came on, ( error P1135
    Fuel air metering ). Has anyone had this problem with ther 2001 Tacoma
    V6 ?.
  • haleiwahaleiwa Member Posts: 1
    Hello there,

    I have the same truck and have the exact same problems. Did you ever solve your problem?
  • mike03toymike03toy Member Posts: 1
    I just bought an 03 Tacoma double cab 4x4,TRD. This is my third Toy. I had an 83 reg. cab shortbox, a little tank ! When the kids came along I got an 89 4runner and now the 03. I plan on driving this one for a long time and I'm looking for a service manual. Anyone know where I should start. The dealer can order one but it's expensive and I'll only go that root if I have to. Hoping someone has one! I also buy loto tickets but that hasn't panned out yet either!!
    Mike.
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    There's a guy on Ebay that sells OEM Toy manuals.
    Good deal (compared to dealership) and very quick shipment.
    I got manuals for my 2004 Taco (which I later sold after trading up for the 2005) and for the 2005 Taco. Both times, good transactions.
  • tdantdan Member Posts: 1
    I realized your post is ~ 2 yrs old, but I just purchased an '06 Tundra. I'd like to know if you picked up the extended warranty and if so was it from the dealer or third party? Any advice would be appreciated.
  • budisitbudisit Member Posts: 6
    I just purchased an '06 Tundra DC. I did buy the extended warranty. $1,000 for 6 year, 100K miles. I bought it from Toyota who actually contracts with another source....BUT.....Toyota administrates the warranty coverage in the same manner as the typical original new car warranty. Anytime you need service within the warranty OR the extended warranty service.....IF...you buy from Toyota then you simply schedule your vehicle for service and they take care of the rest for you. No need to contact your extended warranty company that way. Less hassel.

    My logic on the extended warranty was this:

    I pay out $100 a month or whatever for insurance or warranty on any body damage / liability in order to get my vehicle repaired if wrecked (as well as other persons)....then why would I not pay out a small amount $16 per month to insure the mechanical aspect of the vehicle? $100 month for body repairs, $15 month for mechanical repairs.....(simplistic way of looking at it).

    BUDDY
  • ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    I agree 100%. I can afford 20 bucks per month alot better than shelling out 3K or more at one time when I am 2500 miles from home or even in the front yard for that matter. I don't travel alot, but I do go far when I do travel (atleast 1 5K trip per year). I have only bought 1 warranty that was not used (Tundra) and 1 that was cash in within a year due to trade in (Tacoma). Figures that it would only be Toyotas that don't need the warranty. I did get another with my current Tacoma. My Chevy Astro broke to the tune of $2300, and my Jeep and Ford F250 both went down for over a grand each. The Ford broke on the way home from the dealer, so I definately didn't have an extra grand right after dropping a down payment. I made many trips cross country with young kids in some heaps. Spent the entire trip worrying about breakdowns. My first trip in a fully warranted Tundra had me worrying about whether the next town had a McDonalds. My piece of mind is well spent money.
  • woody72woody72 Member Posts: 73
    I have a '00 with the 2.7L with about 87K miles and have kept up with all filter, oil and plug changes but neglected to notice the 60K mile 'inspect valve clearance' in the maintenence schedule. It has a vibration at idle and check engine light is now on, otherwise runs fine. The mechanic says one of my #3 intake valves is bad hence low compression effecting the o2 sensor setting off the check light. He recommends a valve job at between $2300-2800! Does anyone routinely adjust these valves at 60K mile intervals? If my clearance is tight, keeping a valve from completely seating will a valve adjustment help or is it too late, the heat damage has been done? Would appreciate any related comments, thanks
  • jlucarijlucari Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 2.7L Tacoma with these black caps. They seem really tight when prying on them after removing the bolt. I hate to break something but should these just pry off or is there something else involved?
  • afghantechafghantech Member Posts: 1
    Howdy, I have the same code on a Tacoma. Did you ever figure out the problem? I am working overseas and do not have much information resources here. Thanks for any help you may send my way. Rick
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Member Posts: 92
    In reply to your contaminants and molecular chain sizes I would like to say that I have owned a Toyota 1995 22re truck ran it on Walmart brand 10w30 Full Synthetic oil $2.99 a quart and cheaper by the gallon and a Fram Orange Can Of Death oil filter to the tune of 235,000miles with 5000-6500 miles between changes without any related problems because of it. I have since sold the truck and have purchased a new 2004 v-6 TRD and run Mobil 1 and a Fram X-2 7000mile oil filter,and change at 6500 miles religiously with grease and forsee no problems with doing so,if you have the time to roll under your truck at every 3500-4000miles go ahead but there care no problems with extending your intervals with synthetic oils and a qaulity oil filter that should handle the extended level of contaminates for a stated interval,as long you are regular with your adjusted maintainence schedule. The 1995 truck i sold is still running strong as a daily driver to a young guy I sold it to so something must have attributed to this. ;)
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    I don't doubt that you could have had the same results with "dino oil" and a good quality filter. 5K miles is the interval currently recommended for the Taco. If you've noticed, the engine oil specifications have been changing for decades, the quality and performance of the additive packages being the difference. As a result, most mfrs have increased intervals accordingly.

    5k-6.5k is not that long, particularly if a significant amount of it is highway driving, and you have relatively few short trips. Short trips are particularly tough on engines and exhaust, as they often don't allow the systems to warm up enough to rid themselves of some of the moisture. The extended times that were being discussed were far in excess of 5k or 6k (miles).

    In my particular case, I drive predominately short trips (<5 mi.) I therefore change my oil more by calendar time than actual mileage (averaging about 4k/6months).

    None of the people I personally know who have really long engine mileage histories have used synthetics. That's no more statistically valid than any other anecdote, so it doesn't mean that the only way to long engine life is with dino oil. The point is that if you use the science to determine oil drain interval, you won't greatly increase the interval just because you use synthetics. You CAN justify extending if you sample and find contaminant levels are acceptable, and viscosity within range. (the best being to sample, and at least change the filter on a regular basis) But if you then apply the economics of the higher oil cost and the sampling cost, most will find that it is more economical to just use dino oil and filter at the mfr's recommended interval. (OTOH, the 2005 V6 Taco does make filter change and sample collection extremely convenient, whereas older models require almost as much effort as if you were to do the oilchange anyway.)

    cheers,
    m
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Member Posts: 92
    I understand your point of view but also if you look at the prices of oil change shops such as iffy lube and grease junky they are quite high for an oil change and supposely a chassis grease if they do it,and the questional qaulity of thier products and qaulity of service. I feel if you change your own oil way not use the superior qaulity products within your price range whether its mobil1 or walmart super tech synthetic do it yourself probably save yourself alot of money and know its done right and despose of the waste in an enviromently friendly way. Some walmart brand synthetics are only $2.99 a quart which is only slightly higher than name brand dino and offers superior performance and protection(scientifically proven). Mobil 1 can operate to at least 8,000miles or higher also (scientifically proven)so for myself Ive come up with a compromise my manufactorers OCI recommends 6000miles so change it at 6500miles with superior qaulity products and still save$ money and know its done right so I actually save money over the oil change places and know if I drive over my OCI that the superior qaulity of my products will protect my engine while the others won't.I guess you could save a few dollars more by using dino and everything may be hunky-dory,but I personally like to use superior products within price range in my superior brand Toyota truck :P
  • trkjrtrkjr Member Posts: 2
    I just got a '05 Tacoma DC 4WD, w/ the 4.0 V6, that i picked up with about 17,000 miles on it.

    it sat for awhile, so the engine compartment is kinda dirty/dusty. can i get the engine cleaned and detailed, or will that cause other problems?

    Also, I've been reading a lot of other letters here about what oil/filter people are using.

    those of you not using synthetic, what brand oil are you using, along with filter, and are you using the reccomended 5w-30w that Toyota advises?

    thanks,
    :P
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Member Posts: 92
    I have a 2004 Tacoma TRD v6 and started using Mobil1 and Fram X2 oil filter at 30,000miles,just recently switched to Pennzoil platinum Synthetic 5w30 with Valvoline maxlife oil filter(free w/rebate),I think Pennzoil platinum runs better than Mobil1 in my truck. Check this website for good info Bobistheoilguy.com go to forums section great info there. I am definetly pro synthetic I go 6500miles between changes,Toyota probably recommends Toyota filters and oil they probably very good for conventional,I like doing it myself and use good products that last and protect and the do it yourself offsets :P the cost. :P
  • trkjrtrkjr Member Posts: 2
    did you have any troubles when you switched to Synthetics? did you have to do anything special when you switched?

    I was actually wondering what people's favorite dino oil was?

    I wasn't sure i needed to go synthetic.
    :P
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Member Posts: 92
    Absolutely no problems when switched,I do alot of driving for my work and daily driving I chose synthetics for that reason depending on your needs there is alot of good dinos out there Texaco Havoline dino is rated as one of the best and less than $2 a quart at Walmart,if I was going Dino it would be Havoline and Toyota brand filter,I am sticking with synthetic probably Pennzoil Platinum it runs goood I think better than Mobil1 and cheaper can get it reasonably with rebates available sometimes. Also Walmart Brand Super Tech full synthetic is a great bargin 5quart jug only like $12 and change used it in 1995 Toyota truck ran great over 225,000 miles on truck dont let the Walmart tag scare you its good oil. Its basically your choice what you want to spend and how much protection youll need I like to spend a little extra because I like my truck plus using synthetics in engine and axles with Denso double platinum sparkplugs has raised my gas mileage from 20.50mpg to 21.45,and now 22.46mpg and its drivability and power are alot better read Bobistheoilguy.com website go to forums there is a wealth of knowledge there for free. :P :P :P :P :P
  • eswartzeswartz Member Posts: 2
    I just recently purchased a used 2004 Toyota Tacoma 4dr Prerunner w/ TRD V6 and SR5 (and the list goes on......). What is the intervals for tuneups on this vehicle? My wife's 2004 Highlander is 100k and I couldn't seem to put my finger on the manual where it states that. I am considering putting Mobil 1 in my and hers soon. I ran it in my Accord 4dr Ex for years and it was excellent. I am however happy to be back to the Toyota product and especially their trucks. My old Toyota was a 88 Toy w/ 22RE and 4wd. What a great truck. I want to drive it "sanely" so I can get good gas mileage. I see you have yours up over 22. That is impressive. What size tires and what else have you done? I wouldn't mind the custom air filter also to help.

    Thanks,

    Ed
  • zdmazdma Member Posts: 6
    Hi folks I have 05 Tacoma w/TRD package. Recently the truck has continuous rubbing noise, sounds from front tires. When drive off road or pass speed bump it&#146;s getting worse, annoying like you&#146;re squeezing something. I saw guys from a Scion forum say that TRD suspension&#146;s easy to get this problem, is it true? Sent back to dealer once, they said everything normal. Like that forum says "everything&#146;s fine, yet the problems still exist". Sigh...

    Thanks in advance
    :sick:
  • 95tacotruck95tacotruck Member Posts: 2
    I OWN A 95 TOYOTA TACOMA 2.4 I HAVENT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH IT EXCEPT THE MANIFOLD HAS BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES. IT KEEPS CRACKING THEM IN HALF AND THE STUDS THAT CONNECT IT TO THE PIPE COME LOOSE ALL THE TIME. PLEASE SHARE YOUR INPUT, THANK YOU
  • vabundezvabundez Member Posts: 2
    where is the transmission gauge located in a 2006 toyota tacoma v6??
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    There isn't one. It just has a fill hole on the side of the transmission. If the fluid is up to hole then the the fluid level is fine. Kind of like the rear differential.
  • winterboneswinterbones Member Posts: 7
    Just had my "Maintanence Required" light to come on and stay on - on my 2005 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab pickup. Mileage is at 11,000 +.

    Anyone know what I need to check for or probably replace?

    Thanks for your replies.
  • kbcvgkbcvg Member Posts: 1
    I have an '05 Tacoma, V6. Any idea how to loosen and remove the oil filter housing in order to turn it upside down to take off the filter?
  • cctruckcctruck Member Posts: 4
    It probably just means you need to change the oil, I think they're set to go off every 5K and the mechanic resets it after doing the maintenance. You can reset it yourself, look in the manual for instructions.

    hth;

    DCraig.
  • nytaco05nytaco05 Member Posts: 13
    Its just part of the new smart cars system. Everyday it self diagnose itself and keeps track of the last maintenance period as well. It is programmed to set off every 5k miles or so, unless there is a malfunction with the engine or brakes or anything in that nature.
  • winterboneswinterbones Member Posts: 7
    Well, that is a story in itself because I have had the last and first two oil changes since I bought this Taco at a Pennzoil oil change center. The first time I had the oil changed, I checked the oil immediately after they changed it and it showed up as a slighty clear color on the dipstick and the oil filter was a Pennzoil brand filter. A little oil was spilled also. No biggy, just a sure sign that it was changed.

    Second time, (After 3K miles) I checked the oil's color and it had become more of a brown color by then and so I went back to the same place and had it changed again. I checked it when my wife brought it home and guess what? Same brown color, no signs of oil spillage, dust still on the filter, and the "Maint Required" light comes on about 2 weeks after that.

    I think I will change it myself from now on.

    So, how do those of us that use jiffy-type lube up centers now for a solid fact that thier oil is actually being changed?
  • nytaco05nytaco05 Member Posts: 13
    I take my truck to the dealership. Its not cheap, but I love the customer service there and the quality of their work. I rather pay the extra $ knowing that it's being spent rightfully. You know what they say, you get what you paid for.
  • winterboneswinterbones Member Posts: 7
    Great! You need a pat on the back but, I think you missed the point. There is no sure way of knowing that they changed it for sure unless you change it yourself. Even your friendly dealer to whom you like to spend more money on because you want to get what you pay for, could be doing the same thing with a smile. That's my point.
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