Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Tacoma Care and Maintenance

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
edited July 2014 in Toyota
Click on link in Additional Resources box to use Edmunds.com Maintenance Guide.

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
«134

Comments

  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    Does anyone know why the number one spark plug in my 1993 Toyota truck (22R engine) burns out before the other three? Whenever I check it it always has substantially more gray-brownish residue than the other cylinders' plugs. I've not noticed that it has caused any problems, and am just curious. The work around solution is that every 5,000 I rotate my spark plugs so they will wear evenly.

    Any ideas?

    - Paul
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I'm sure you thought of that though.
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    Actually I had not thought of that - I sometimes forget the simple things! I'll be at 150,000 miles for the next tune up and will replace both the plug wires and distributor cap. I had replaced only the cap before and it did not seem to make a difference, but perhaps new wires will.

    Thanks!

    - Paul
  • mkstringmkstring Member Posts: 53
    I just went synthetic in my '92 Xtra cab V6 4x2 (at 60,000). With a Toyota recommended change at 5000/7500, should synthetic extend that any?? Any ideas on recommended filter change schedule given that synthetics are "cleaner" by nature?? I figured that synth would be a way to even prolong the life i expect out of the truck, given their reputations...

    I've owned it for just over a year and the reputation his holds for its reliability. It's amazing that the little guy (I can see called a truck a girl) is 10 years old already....
  • human_guisehuman_guise Member Posts: 14
    Well, thanks to a brain fart I managed to put a big fat gouge in the front right-hand plastic wheel arch trim on my '02 Taco double cab. It scraped on the edge of a trailer in the garage, as I was backing out. I am pretty certain that I can replace it myself (since it bolts on), but don't want to get raped by the local dealers. Anyone know where I can order such a factory part on-line? Thanks!
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    Try doing a Yahoo search on Toyota of Richardson, Texas. They answered an e-mail for me once and seemed tech-friendly.

    - Paul
  • 02dctaco02dctaco Member Posts: 2
    My 2 month old 2002 4x4 DC came with Bridgestone 265/70R16's. What's the recommended PSI for my tires. The truck will be used mainly on the pavement.

    The sticker in the door jamb has settings for a 225/75R15 tire - nothing about my tires.

    - bill
  • tacoma4metacoma4me Member Posts: 14
    I have an 02 DC 4x4 also, and my sticker shows for both tire sets. The 265/70R16's show a pressure of 26 for front and back. I have questioned such a low pressure with several tire dealerships, and they all think it is too low for normal on road use. They recommended 30-32 typical. I have been running 32 and have not seen any unusual tread wear in about 10k miles. I rotate every 5k sofar.
  • 615694615694 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought this one, but it didn't have an owners manual and neither did the dealer. Any suggestions on how to get one?

    I've owned 4 Toyotas and driven over 400,000 miles with no breakdowns so there will be more!
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    You should be able to order one from the parts department from the dealership.
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    I am on my second Tundra, and both have been excellent.
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    176,500 miles and no major problems. No blue smoke or oil leaks. Original exhaust, starter, radiator. Minor things like a brake valve and water pump needed replacing, but that's about it.

    It's almost time for new tires, the ones on the truck have 80,000 miles on them.

      - P.
  • footpoundsfootpounds Member Posts: 22
    For you technical types, any idea why Toyota REQUIRES twin ground electrode spark plugs in the 6 cylinder Tacoma engines but doesn't require them in the 4 cylinder engines?
  • ageylingageyling Member Posts: 16
    I am getting a 2003 Tundra today and I'm wondering if anyone knows the recommended breakin procedure for a new Tundra? ie mileage and speed. I've always heard on any new car it is best to stay under 55 for 1000 miles to let the transmission breakin and such.
  • ageylingageyling Member Posts: 16
    Also, anything else anyone recommends to do for a new TUndra? Maintenance, cleaning, etc?
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    Just go what the owners manual says; no constant speed (long periods of highway driving) and not too fast for a thousand miles.
  • hamfirehamfire Member Posts: 2
    Just got a 03 Tundra, ordered a cover for the back. Does anyone know if a spray on bed liner like Rhino Lining is worth it? ---or should i just get a rubber mat. I had a plastic bedliner in my old truck and don't want one for the new one. i read the existing discussion thread, but need more advice... thanks!
  • ohmboyohmboy Member Posts: 3
    I installed a Herculiner kit myself on my 00 when it was new. This is a cheaper do-it-yourself version of the Rhino product. I considered Rhino at the time and probably would go that way if I had it to do over simply because it looks a little better. This being said, I still get positive comments on my Herculiner quite frequently. I would go without a liner before I'd ever put a plastic one in my truck again. If you ever intend on putting anything in the bed of your truck there is no other option. Just one country boy's opinion.
  • nomore76nomore76 Member Posts: 1
    I change the oil in all my vehicles myself to save money and be assured of quality work. However, I am getting really tired of the location, access and convenience of the filter on my 4-cyl Tacoma. When the filter is removed (long after I've drained the rest of the oil), at least a cup runs down my arm, splashes all over skid plate, and then drips all over the garage floor from various locations!!! Does anyone have any tips? I've never owned a car or truck that made such a mess.
  • spleckspleck Member Posts: 114
    On cars that have an awkward filter location, I usually slip a plastic trash bag over the filter before I remove it.

    I've also noticed that if you change the oil with the engine cold, the filter comes off only about half full of oil--no spill. The disadvantage is that without the engine warm, the oil won't flow out as well.
  • saupe130saupe130 Member Posts: 36
    I have the 3.4 v6 Tacoma, and it spills the oil too. I put cardboard under it to catch what doesn't hit the drain pan. I bought a Trans Dapt oil filter relocator for it, and it allows you to move the filter to a move convenient (vertical) location, and uses a FL-1A filter (standard Ford) that you can get anywhere. Haven't installed it yet, but willpost when I do and let y'all know how she works out. I also bought a sliding gate valve drain plug, so don't need a wrench now to let the oil out of the pan. I can attest to the fact that this item is pretty cool. Got it from Toyota Performance.
  • sguegliasgueglia Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the recent discussions on saving oil from making a mess. I have a more basic problem. Making my first oil change at 4K and can't find the filter. Please help. No mention of it in owner's man...I guess they want the revenue at a dealer.

    Thanks,

    Jim
  • saupe130saupe130 Member Posts: 36
    If it's a V-6 3.4L, if you contort your arm to the right side of the engine through the alternator belt, it's hanging off the driver's side of the block below the exhaust manifold. Don't know about the 4 cyl.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    A major news magazine is looking for an enthusiastic Toyota customer, preferably a buyer (or soon-to-be buyer) of the Sienna, Highlander or Tundra Double Cab. Please provide your daytime contact info and vehicle status to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday, October 28, 2003.
    Thanks!
    Jeannine Fallon
    PR Director
    Edmunds.com

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • dwbehrensdwbehrens Member Posts: 15
    I have 5 Toyotas, including one Tundra truck. For the past 15 to 20 years, I have been inflating all my tires to slightly below maximum inflation pressures. That is, on the 265/70R16 tires on my Tundra, the maximum inflation pressure is 44 PSI. I inflate them to 42 PSI. The ride in the vehicles is a little harder, but handling control, fuel economy, tire wear, and wet weather driving is improved.
  • dwbehrensdwbehrens Member Posts: 15
    I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil in all my vehicles. Oil changes are at 10,000 mile intervals, with oil filters changed every 5,000 miles. It keeps it simple to remember.

    Mobil 1 gear oil in differentials (non limited slip), transfer cases, and manual transmissions is changed when new, thereafter every 100,000 miles.

    Automatic trans fluid is drained and refilled every motor oil change (10,000 miles) using the drain plug found on all Toyota trans pans. Since the torque converter is not drained, refill is only 25% to 40% of full trans fluid capacity. I drop the pan and clean it every 40,000 to 50,000 miles. I don't use synthetic trans fluid, but adhere to Toyota's recommendation for use of Type T-IV fluid in the tranmissions that require it.
  • bronzemaskbronzemask Member Posts: 2
    Hi, basically bedliners fall into two obvious catagories- drop in and spray on.

    Advantages to a TOP quality drop in:
    -correct one is custom fit to your truck
    -will protect your bed better than spray on because of thicker material
    -if liner becomes damaged, it can be pulled out and replaced (the spray in liners do become damaged over time)
    -no overspray or wobbly edges if done poorly
    -you don't have to worry about the bed being completely clean before putting it in
    -cost is usually lower because of less labor
    Disadvantages to any drop in:
    -water can collect under the liner and rust your bed faster

    Advantages to a TOP quality spray in liner:
    -can be color matched to your truck, can even be multiple colors (from an experienced technician)
    -tighter, more perfect coverage
    -built in texture, stuff doesn't slide around as much in the bed
    -no manufacturer name molded into the liner, you can make the bed as smooth as possible
    Disadvantages to a spray in:
    -built in texture can be rough on things you don't want scratched (you included)
    -once it's there, it's there, even if it's a bad job (very tough to remove, redo, or touch up)
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    Disadvantages to any drop in:
    Noise - can rattle on rough roads.
    Paint wear - movement between liner and painted bed can wear through paint (in spots) leading to rust.

    Advantage: smoother surface = easier to clean.
  • lark68lark68 Member Posts: 2
    Have a 1990 two wheel drive with 67,000 miles.
    Want to change fuel filter but can't find it.
    Thought it was underneath by right rear wheel.
  • lark68lark68 Member Posts: 2
    Ref: fuel filter. Never mind I found it. Changed it. Although I don't think that is my problem.
    The engine seems to "buck" or cut out, rough idle.
    It bucks when I stop accelerating, or on the level when foot is just resting on accelerator.
    Started out by changing plugs, then spark plug wires, then distributor cap and rotor. All top quality parts. Oh yes, a can of drygas also.
    Any thoughts on the matter appreciated.
  • rlafaverrlafaver Member Posts: 70
    You might want to look for a vacuum leak. On older cars the advance/retard on the distributor was a common cause for this, but I don't know how that relates on newer engines. Another thing to look at is fuel pressure.
  • glenn43glenn43 Member Posts: 15
    At 30k, my owners Manual recommends oil change,replace engine air filter, Spark plugs (not sure why so early for plugs), engine coolant,and overall inspection of other components. The dealers 30k check up recommends replace trans fluid, diff fluid, pcv valve,fuel filter along with inspecting everything else.They're asking between $340 to $380. Any reason why there's a huge difference from owners manual to dealer recommended 30k maintenance? I'm considering doing my own maintenance checkup following the owners maual recommendation. Chilton only covers Tacoma's up to 2000. I assume the engine for 2000 and 2001 are simular.
  • tcasboytcasboy Member Posts: 214
    The reason for the difference between the dealer's recommendation and the factory's is the $340-380 worth of needless work for the dealer's service department.
  • glenn43glenn43 Member Posts: 15
    Yeah, I was kinda thinking that myself. All the more reason why I've decided to do the work myself according to my Owners manual service schedule.Does anyone know if the mechanical and electrical layout for the 2000 and 2001 are similar? Chilton reps tell me they won't be printing a book for the 2001 Tacoma any time soon. The current book goes up to 2000 (same with Haynes). That's fine with me if the parts are in the same place.
  • jonjonsjonjons Member Posts: 19
    My '96 2wd Extra cab has 57K miles on the clock and needs new shocks. I was thinking of using KYB Gas-A-Just front and rear. The Chilton manual makes it sound pretty straightforward. Is this something that a reasonably practical person could do? Are there any major complications or problems I might encounter?

    Thanks,

    Jon
  • coni1coni1 Member Posts: 3
    I am about to buy an 04 Tacoma 4x2. The dealer is suggesting that I buy the extended warranty up to 100,000k. Should I? Is it worth the value, or is it just a dealer's ploy to make $$$? Please advise ASAP - today is the day for the purchase.
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    I had Edelbrock shocks put on my 96 2wd LX V6. I paid an independent shop to install them after I purchased them off a web-site.

    The front shocks are mounted inside the coil spring which complicates the installation. Also gas shocks have to be compressed to get them onto the mounting studs.

    I decided to let someone with a lift and all the proper tools do the deed. I don't get the thrill that I used to from crawling around under cars. (To each their own) :)

    james
  • jonjonsjonjons Member Posts: 19
    Hey James,
    Thanks for the information (again). I suspected that the shocks would need to be compressed. You are right about working on cars. Realistically, I would rather spend the time with my daughter!

    Still looking at Foresters? We love our '99 S. The XT looks nice huh?

    Jon
  • oregonboyoregonboy Member Posts: 1,650
    Jon -

    Forester turbo, oh yeah!! I've test driven both the auto and 5-spd versions and they are both terrific. I know that I would love to own a 5-spd Forester, turbo or otherwise, but having driven a compact pickup for the last ten years, I just can't give up the utility that a pickup offers.

    Maybe in a couple more years, when my truck's mileage gets too high to use as my daily driver, I'll buy a Subie and keep the Tacoma for occasional duty.

    james
  • mga58mga58 Member Posts: 17
    I am considering step tubes or running boards for my 02 Tundra. Any suggestions for brands for bolt ons? Comments on ease of installation and durability are welcome. Thanks.
  • edgexedgex Member Posts: 6
    I purchased a pair of Challenger brushed stainless steel oval running boards for my new 04 Tundra DC. Its actually a dealer part and direct bolt on. $359. No drilling required and installed in a snap. I had factory running boards on my 94 Toyota pickup that were nice too, but the drawbacks were that they collected salt/dirt over time and seem to help contribute to my doors rusting on the bottom that occurred over a 10 years period. Plus they were steel and the paint flaked/rusted over time too. The Challenger steps are strong with four mounting hinges. I read alot of the posts of the the tundra solutions forum board on the net. Most said to stay away from the black or chrome painted steel and buy stainless. Don't know if this helps.
  • whatnow2whatnow2 Member Posts: 24
    I purchased Performance Products tube steps for my 2001 Tacoma - they also supply for Tundra. Easy installation and no after-installation problems, but you do need a torque wrench to do it right. Took about 2 hours to spend crawling and wrenching. I highly recommend the chrome-on-stainless choice. Appearance is great.
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    Today in frigid NJ I jumped my garaged '74 Hilux so I could run it a little before a coming snow storm. I try to run it once a week to keep it up in cold weather. After the jump, I could start it but it would not idle at all, but stall. The "CHG" light also came on and stayed on while I would goose the gas to keep it running. I tried to run it around the neighborhood but with all the stalling it was just too dangerous. Did I burn something out during the jump? The turn signals strangely enough would not work either, but the 4-ways would. I checked the fuses and they were all intact. What the heck is going on, any ideas? thanks in advance.
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    I've done my own maintenance on my 1993 Toyota Pickup and at 189,000 miles can't say that its been bad for the vehicle. I stopped bringing it to the dealer 4 years ago when they charged me $65.00 to change my manual transmission fluid - about $5.00 worth of oil. A regular oil change at the same dealer uses about the same amount (4.5 qts) of oil and was only $19.99 which should cost even more because they have to install a new oil filter too. What's up with that? Rip Off.

    Now I change all the fluids myself. The peace of mind I get knowing I'm not getting ripped off is well worth my time and getting a few cuts and scrapes on my hands (none if I'm real careful).

    I also had an independent mechanic try to tell me my transmission was gone (at 177,000 miles) when all that was wrong was a shifter linkage bushing. Thank goodness for a really sharp friend & Toyota parts dude and the Internet, that's how I figured out and fixed the problem with a $9.00 part. So I try to do almost everything myself, except for starter and fuel filter replacement - a bear on this model truck.

    Unfortunately the independent shop had installed a new clutch in an effort to diagnose before I stopped them, but with 90,000 miles on the old clutch I figured it was not really a rip off I guess. But I'll bet the old clutch would have lasted much longer.

    Sure, by now the '93 truck is out of style but it will have 200,000 miles on it by this summer, and Gosh is it cheap to run! :-)

     - P.
  • paul_ppaul_p Member Posts: 271
    Sounds like something electrical happened during the jump. At first I thought it might be an electric choke issue, but if the CHG light stays on when you give it the gas, it's probably electrical.

    I had that happen once on a 1966 Plymouth Belvedere, I burned out a fusible link and the alternator gauge when I replaced a valve cover (shorted the wires together when I bolted the cover on). That problem took 4 months for me to find, and caused the lights to be dim, battery not to charge, and many calls for towing in the cold Northeast.

    Did the cables reverse by accident, even for a brief moment? You might also want to check your alternator and/or voltage regulator to see if anything's burned out there. Does anyone know if parts stores will test alternators for free or do they charge (no pun intended)?

     - P.
  • touctouc Member Posts: 28
    I have not even burned my first tank of gas yet, and I am already thinking about my first oil change. How soon should I do it (for the loose, break in particles, etc.)? And, when I do it, should I go sythetic blend, or totally sythetic yet? Or, not do sythetic at all? Any guidelines to follow here? Thanks.
  • mikentexasmikentexas Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Tacoma. How do I adjust the headlights? The dealer tells me he's done it right, but I think the lights shine too high.
    Thanks in advance.
  • ageylingageyling Member Posts: 16
    Is anyone familiar with the spark plugs on the V8 Tundra Engine? I believe it is the 2UV-FE Engine. I have a 2003 and the manual says there are spark plugs but when I look at the engine, where the spark plugs should be there are flat rectangular black caps. The caps have a bolt holding them down adn there is a four pin connector attached. Following this wire to the harness, I find that the other 7 similar caps lead to the same harness and the harness goes in a large black cover on the front of the drivers side valve cover. So I assume these rectangular caps are the spark plug covers and the black cover on the front of the valve cover is the distributor, but this leaves me with one issue. Why four wires leading to the spark plug and why are they so small? Normally spark plug cables are much thicker due to the high voltage.
  • ageylingageyling Member Posts: 16
    Found an answer somewhere else for a 2000 Tundra. I assume it is the same.

    They are located under each coil boot...Instead of one ignition coil like in older vehicles...each spark plug has its own coil boot.
  • spydspyd Member Posts: 3
    Hey all. I have an 2001 Tacoma DC, I'm quickly reaching 50K miles and need to change all 4 tires, 5 with the spare. But I'm also thinking about trying to improve the ride quality by changing the shocks and struts, the ride is just a little too bouncy for me as an everyday driver. My questions are:
     1. If changing the shocks and struts, along with new tires are enough to improve the ride, or is it there not going to be much difference?
     2. Is there a particular brand/make I should be looking for?
     3. Should I just get my tires changed and the 50K mile service, and save the money for the Scion tC for the "better" ride?

    Thanx in advance
    Spyd
This discussion has been closed.