Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

kimexpo · September 2003

My 2000 V8 Tundra has about 36K miles and running fine. The problem that I have is with the Engine check warning light staying ON. Once the battery is removed and reconnected, this Engine check will be off for a day or two. Manual said bring the car to the dealer. Engine oil, Transmission fluid, Coolant temperature are all OK. Truck is running normally with no extra fuel consumption. Any suggestions?

mr2don · September 2003

I have the above w/automatic. I have <4000 miles and have experienced the clunking as described by alko. I took it back to the dealer at 75 miles and they said 'no problem'. This was in Orlando, Fl. Now, I am in Tucson and took it to a dealer today. I was told that this is 'characteristic of all AT Tacomas'. It has nothing to do with the tranny, but is movement of the rear end. They said the problem doesn't exist with the manual tranny. I wonder why this 'characteristic' wasn't disclosed prior to the sale.

paul_p · September 2003

Don't know if they have them where you live, but if you go to an AutoZone auto parts store, they will read your check engine code for free and get essentially the same info. When they tell you what the reading is you can proceed from there with more knowledge about what may be wrong.

This is what we did with my fiancee's car, a 1996 Ford Contour, and believe me the light came on often. It was supposedly the EGR valve, so we replaced that. The light came on again but now it's off (I hope for good). Next time we'll buy a Toyota that will last like my truck which has 182,200+ miles on it!!

Good luck with your truck.

mhinkson2 · October 2003

I had a 2001 Tundra truck and had replaced the brake system completely 3 times. (I was 1 of 10 people who had the problem)After hearing the horror stories from "tundra solutions" about everyone and their brake problems and then having th dealer tell me that the brake problem was going to be my expense after the warranty ran out, which was in 4,000 miles I dumped the truck. Now I have my second Subaru Outback, but this one is the H6 version and after 7,000 miles it's brakes warped as well. On the edmunds subaru site numerous owners have complained about the same problem. I think there is a problem with the brake industry in general.

gee1 · October 2003

My husband had a problem with his ck eng lite on his 2001 Tundra. It took many times into the dealership for service. It was an 02 sensor apparently there are 4 and the one that it turn out to be #4 was jammed in there but the got it out and replaced it havent had a problem since. We now have a very loud squeaky brake problem when he backs anyone have this problem?

75rangers · November 2003

I purchased a used 2001 Prerunner (6cyl)with 47K miles and a new set of 4 Continental Sportiva P265/70/16. Had a vibration from the floorboard through the steering wheel from 56 to 66 MPH. Dealer has had the truck in 3 seperate occasions and says the tires are balanced. I took the truck too 2 tire dealers and paid to have them check the balance. They have all said the same thing, the tires are balanced, but when I take them for a test drive showing the vibration has not left, they tell me it must be the tires. The dealership has what they call a road force balancer and according to them it can tell them if the tires are bad, problem rims, etc. Their machine says everything is ok? I was told by one of the Toyota mechanics that the 6cyl. motor is not balanced very well and that may be the problem? From talking to several other mechanics, it could be the driveshaft, ball joints and/or the rims. Before I purchase 4 new tires,has anyone else has had this problem, and if so how was it resolved?

duckshooter · November 2003

My 00 Tundra light came on in 03 at just under 30,000 miles. 45 minutes at the dealer to replace an O2 sensor and no charge to me.

glenn43 · November 2003

Hello all. I'm coming up on 30k miles in my 2.7 ltr. 2001 4x4 Tacoma. So far, I've kept up with oil changes (every 5k), Tire rotations, and changed my air cleaning filter back around 16k (give or take). Everything seems to be running fine. Should I consider any fluid/oil flushes of any other maintenance at 30k or if it ain't broke, I shouldn't try and fix it?

tundradude · November 2003

Preventive Maintenance is always a good thing. Most cars that have the 30K flush I call it, age very well. My wifes 95 Corolla is a good example which currently has 147K. However, I had one of the first 2.7 engines in a 94 T100. I did my first maintenance around 60K and my friend (who bought it) has done it at 130K. The truck is still going strong.

tsmith16 · November 2003

I have a 2001 with 44k miles and Michelin LTX/MS tires. Between 55 and 60 MPH the truck bounces. The tires have been balanced but the problem remains. I am now in the process of switching my spare tire around to narrow down the problem. No luck so far. Let me know if you find the problem.

midewo · November 2003

Board,
   I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake manifold.....toyota couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
   Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
   Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
    Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving

/mike

midewo · November 2003

Board,
   I am really impressed at the placement of the gas filter on my 4 cylinder taco. It is right under the intake manifold.....toyota couldn't you have found a more difficult place to position this???
   Ok, enough sarcasm. I need the procedure to change the gas filter please. I am at 38K, this is already overdue I don't see anything short of removing the manifold. I doubt even going through the wheel well will help...
   Calling all mechanics who have done this filter change.....Let me know please. Also is it ok to just open on of the filter-to-line connecting nuts and let the gas (under pressure) just drain off (with the engine cold of course)???
    Thanks in advance....Happy thankgiving

/mike

mmikel52686 · November 2003

Hello All:
  I have a 2003 3.4, V6, 4x4, 5 speed. While traveling at highway speeds, if I have to brake hard the RPM's are delayed for up to 1.5 seconds before the idle starts to drop. This occurs with and without cruise control being on.
  I'd like to also note that my last truck was a T-100 with the 3.4 V6 engine - so I am very familiar with how this engine should respond.
  Dealer claims this a a computer problem and Toyota has not issued a TSB yet. Dealer also claims that this feature was added to reduce jerky feeling when shifting gears.
  The problem is a serious safety issue. When traveling at highway speeds, in an emergency, you can't afford to loose 1.5 secords of braking time.
  Additionally there is the added wear on your front disk brake pads due to the engine trying to maintain RPM while brakes are trying to stop the truck.
  If anyone has noticed this problem please notify your dealer and this list. To check your truck, next time you're cruising at 55 or 65 mph, note the RPM - then if you have to brake hard try to note if the RPM drops immediately or, hangs up for a second or two. Another way to check this is, while parked, race engine to 2500-3000 RPM then switch foot from gas to brake pedal. Note the RPM and engine sound. You will find the engine still maintaining that 2500-3000 RPM.
  Also, Dealer pointed out that unless there are more complaints, Toyota 'will not' do anything about this problem.

If you'd like to respond directly, contact me at Mikel52686@aol.com.

Thanks to all

Mike

rlafaver · December 2003

I have found the source of an irritating dash vibration in my '03 Tacoma. The bracket that holds the fuse block is essentially a "click beetle", like the childrens toy. If you press gently forward or back on the fuse block you will hear a pop. On mildly rough roads this becomes a maddening vibration, as some of you know. If you remove the fuse block you will find the noise can still be reproduced by pressing back and forth on the bracket. Tightening does no good. A full sized piece of shring tubing between the bracket and the kick wall does the trick. Just pop two holes in it for the bolts but don't pop a hole for the little positioning tab on the bracket. Let it create its own when you tighten the bolts. No more vibration. I felt the same relief when my tour in the army was over. What a great feeling.

msibille · December 2003

I don't yet have my Taco, so I haven't seen the filter placement. However, you should NOT loosen the filter port fittings while under pressure. Check a suitable service manual. Generally (for most vehicles) the procedure calls for disconnecting the fuse or a connector for the fuel pump, then starting the engine and allowing it to run, consuming enough fuel to depressurize the system. When it kills, the pressure should be vented. Again, Research this first in a suitable service manual for the specific procedure. It also helps to leave the fuel cap off the tank filler while you're working since any positive change in temperature while you've got the line open will cause pressure in the tank to force fuel out of the open lines. After the filter is replaced and everything buttoned up, the procedures generally call for you to replace the filler cap, reconnect the fuse or connector, and turn the ignition to "on" (not start) for a few seconds, allowing fuel to circulate in the system. Then you can restart the engine.

coni1 · December 2003

I am about to buy an 04 Tacoma 4x2. The dealer is suggesting that I buy the extended warranty up to 100,000k. Should I? Is it worth the value, or is it just a dealer's ploy to make $$$? Please advise ASAP - today is the day for the purchase.

pjesposi · December 2003

I have a 2003 Tundra 8cyl 4wd 2,000 miles. Once the cold weather hit I started to notice an engine noise very much like stuck lifters. In low gear it is very noticeable. I brought it to my local Toyota Service, they said it was normal. Brought it back again and the service manager did not like the noise and called Toyota, Toyota said it's NORMAL.
It sounds like I have a 10yr old truck with 150,000 miles.
Anyone else have this problem?

rexallen13 · December 2003

I just purchased a 2003 Toyota Tundra 4X4 TRO OFF ROAD with 4.7 V/8. I thought the limited slip came with the OFF ROAD PACKAGE but now I know it doesn't. What kind of costs am I looking at to have this done aftermarket.

kartman0 · December 2003

Well, my 2001 Toyota Tundra Access SR5 V8 2WD is having some cold-weather problems. From last Winter, the squaeking dash problem has been fixed, but the newest cold-weather related problem is a loud squealing noise coming from the engine compartment.

I have had this truck for 28-months and in that time put 40,134-miles on it, of which 95% are highway. Its my daily driver and I hardly use this vehicle as a pickup (telephone desk jockey). Yet, I am being told that as belts get old the dry, get hard, and are prone to slippage.

Well, I don't live in a dry climate zone (Georgia) and I would not think this should occur after 28-months. The dealership (Toyota Mall of Georgia) service writer (Matt Askins) informed me on Saturday that his technician said this is typical and expected, especially on this engine.

Yesterday, that dealership's service manager (Robert Acuff) said they 'dressed' the belts to stop the squealing, and when I picked it up it was about 54ºF. The problem reared its ugly head (and continues to) in temperatures in the 34-36ºF range. When i picked up the truck the belts were not making noise.

When I left work last night (1AM this morning) the belt(s) squealed like I had gotten a cat (or two) in the engine compartment. I let the engine warm up before making the drive home. No dice. The squealing stayed quite loud and I drove 35-miles home in 34-36ºF weather at below the speed limit (all interstate travel in Atlanta).

When I got home I woke the wife before even pulling into the driveway because the noise was easily heard. So, I took the vehicle back to the dealership (squealing) and was informed that the serpentine is probably the problem. I was also informed that this belt IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE DRIVETRAIN WARRANTY.

Nice. So, I am looking at a good and healthy repair bill for a vehicle I've tried my best to take care of, always let the dealership do all of the accelerated srvice, use synthetic oils, etc., etc., etc. but this 28-month old truck will cost me several hundred dollars to repair unless there is some sort of good-will warranty that is available and employed at the descretion of the service manager.

I already told them that I do not trust the belts, that I considered them haven failed prematurely, etc., and would not entertain driving the vehicle with the current belts in-place. I've offered on two occassions to let them take their time with the vehicle (I carpool some of the time) to resolve the problem.

I suppose if I have to fork up the money to replace the belts (serpentine and all), I'll get rid of the vehicle and buy a non-Toyota product. I cannot believe this is how I am spending the holidays (problem started just before Xmas).

oregonboy · January 2004

I doubt that any manufacturer would cover a fanbelt replacement at 40k miles. They are a wear-related, maintenance item like brake pads, tires, and wiper blades.

You might check your owner's manual to see if it lists a recommended replacement interval for the accessory drive belts. They may just list inspection intervals and "replace as required".

nealk · January 2004

I have a 2003 V 8 Tundra with 10,000 miles and experiencing the same Engine Noise on cold starts. I spoke to a Sequoia owner with the same problem. I guess it has to do with the lifters and oil viscosity on cold days. Although I am using the manufacturers oil recommendation, I am going to switch to synthetic and see if it fixes the problem. I bought a Toyota for the reliability and craftsmanship and I am disappointed.

nealk · January 2004

I have a 2003 V 8 Tundra with 10,000 and I am able to brake with the first step on the brakes, but the pedal travel is too long. On the second pump it is fine. Does anybody have the same problem? Could be air in the system or the self-adjusting mechanism be malfunctioning?

edgex · January 2004

NealK, I have a 04 Tundra DC and have spoken to the dealer about the brake fade I think you are referring to. My initial pressure on the pedal seems to feel weak. However if I apply two pushes the brakes firm up. I test drove 4 other Tundras, 2 DCs, one access cab, and a V6. All except the V6 felt the same. I posted over at Tundra solutions about the problem and was told that due the rear drum step up, sometimes the rear brakes don't seat properly or need to be adjusted. Others reported bleeding the brakes as well. But getting the dealer to do it will take patience. The test drove mine and thought it was fine. "It's alot of truck to stop", were the svc mgr and salesguy words. Well, I'm sorry, I had 2002 Explorer that stopped on a dime. I don't buy it. Don't know if this helps at all.

puckyhuddle · January 2004

Is there a difference in the street ride of a Tundra w/ the TRD off road option and the ride of one without? I would assume an "off-road tuned suspension" would translate into a rougher street ride. My not so knowledgeable dealer said I would not notice a difference between a double cab with TRD and without. I test drove a DC last weekend with TRD and wondered if the ride would be smoother without. Thanks in advance!

3toyboy · January 2004

Anyone know in general if Toyotas (or specifically the Tundra) are 50 state compliant?

Part 2: any challenges buying in Nevada/Arizona, and registering in California?

Post #9325 in the 4Runner board got me thinking, and NV/AZ have better incentives at the moment.

jimbob7216 · January 2004

What do you mean by "rear drum step up"?

Thanks,

Jim

hallrd · January 2004

experienced this recently with my 2003 v-8 2wd w/18,000 miles. made a 13 hr road trip to Fla., parked truck for 3 days. when started next, excessive valve train noise for about a second on starting and belched a large cloud of blue smoke. also had to add a quart of oil between changes. after owning 2 toyota trucks w/bulletproof 4 cyl engines, very disappointed with tundra v-8.

paul_p · January 2004

On my 1993 Toyota 2wd pickup the belts last approximately 100,000 miles. At that point, even though far from worn out, I replace them on general principles and keep the old ones as spares. You may want to check the performance of your belt-driven devices (bearings and pulleys for A/C, P/S, water pump) if your belts won't last more than 40k miles. Had a friend's 1968 Cadiallac pulley that warped at the spring 1984 Carlisle auto show, and we were stranded overnight.

I changed my original Toyota belts at 101,000 and am now at 189,000 - so I'll change them again this summer. They are not serpentine - they are small, cheap, and there's three of them. Total cost of replacement doing it myself is under $20. with parts from Autozone. I'm almost sure the Toyota belts would be better quality, but these are cheap and last 100k. Besides once you change them, you have spares you can carry with you under the seat in case one breaks. Just don't forget to also carry your wrenches! :-)

- P.

dwbehrens · January 2004

Do you guys with cold engine noises use Mobil 1? I just bought a 2003 4WD 4.7 liter and have used Mobil 1 in the engine, differentials and transfer case since the 1,000 miles break-in period and experience no problems. The gear oil works without an additive in my LSD.

dwbehrens · January 2004

My wife's Matrix had a serpentine belt problem related to the tensioner and it sounded a lot like the noise you are describing. Toyota fixed in under warranty.

When the time comes for my Tundra and RAV4, I will do the serpentine belt change myself. The dealers prices are exorbitant. I saw the timing belt replacement price at the dealer for the V8 Tundra at $525. I asked them if people really pay that. The service writer said yes, and even pay 79.95 for a 'differential service' which is just a drain and refill.

kimexpo · January 2004

For those who own a Tundra, be prepared to pay:
200$ for a diagnostic test and 135$ for each Oxygen sensor replacement. Your car has 4 Oxygen sensors. The two mounted on the exhaust pipes closer to the V8 Engine will fail sometime between 36,000 to 40,000 miles. I own a 95 V8 Lexus and 91 V6 Camry, none of them had suffered the above failure.

paul_p · February 2004

That's the one maintenance job I bring my 1993 22-RE truck to a shop for. Usually costs about $50 plus the filter. Where I go, the mechanic lets me bring the new filter and he installs it.

- P.

svgair01 · February 2004

Gidday....this problem is driving me nuts! Could really use some advice.
I have a 98 Tacoma 2.4L, 2WD 72K miles. What is happening is at light accelerator settings or when releasing the accelerator the engine stalls for just an instant and then catches itself. It does not do this consistently and happens more often when driving in the rain. It's like a miss-fire or loss of fuel to a few cylinders.

I have:
Replaced the plugs
Replaced the plugs leads and wires
Replaced the fuel filter
Had a fuel injector cleaning done

My mechanic says I need the air induction system cleaned but I'm skeptical...I think it's a bad injector, distributor or leak in the air induction system.

Anybody out there had this problem? If so, please respond as this problem is getting very expensive and aggrivating.

Thanks, svgair01

joe99corolla · February 2004

svgair01,
I have a 99 with the 2.4 and it sort of did the same thing.
I ended up cleaning the throttle body. (The air induction system as the mechanic stated.)
1.I did it my self by pulling off the air hose at the throttle body and used the correct spray cleaner. 2. Also with the engine running, I pulled off one of the small vacuum hoses and sprayed some cleaner into the throttle body while working the throttle. All the main air hoses have to be back on to run the engine during step 2. Also the check engine light may come on if you use too much spray. It should go out after while.
Or you can have the dealer do it.

jktundra · February 2004

My 2002 Tundra V-8 recently began shaking when starting in the morning. My 1st visit to the dealer resulted in new spark plugs for a misfire diagnosis. The same thing happen 1 week later and now the dealer is saying I have a sticking fuel injector and that they "have seen a lot of this lately".He also stated that Toyota has a letter out to their dealer to be on the watch for this problem. Anyone have a similiar story?

Thxs, jktundra

lewmanjm · February 2004

My new double cab Tundra has a font end shimmy seen and felt through the steering wheel at speeds of 60-75 mph. Has anyone had a similar problem. One dealer has balanced the tires two times after the original balance and it does not shimmy. After about 7-10 days it starts to shimmy again. I have only 2500 miles so far. The dealer says that the body mounts are softer on the double cab than on the extended cab Tundra and the factory seems to think that is the problem. I do not see how the mounts will affect the steering like that. Anyone have any suggestions??

Thanks.

touc · February 2004

I only have 600 miles on my DC. I hope this is not a problem to be reckoned with. So far, I have none of this going on. Let us know what comes out of this, please....

barnabas · February 2004

Touc and Lewmanjm: What kind of gas mileage are you getting?

touc · February 2004

So far, just barely over 15 mpg (but the wife has been driving it too - ha) I need to put my camper top on it, or get a t-cover (to stop some of the drag of this looonnng beast)

bigdaddyw · February 2004

I have only had my truck two months, but I am already regretting the purchase. My brakes are getting replaced as I type, warped rotors. My main problem is what I refer to a jolt when I push the accelerator at around 35 mph. It feels like there is slack that is being taken up just before the shift. Sometimes it is so strong the whole truck jerks. The mechanic told me all tacomas with auto trans do it, something to do with the drivline, (BS ), I think it is the tranny. Tomorrow when I pick up my truck I am going to test drive one and see if it also has the "jolt". Even if it does, does that make it Ok.

jerry86 · February 2004

I'm thinking about buying a new 2004 Tacoma ExtraCab 6 Cyliner 4WD Pickup. I've been driving a F250 Diesel since 1990 and am looking forward to something smaller. My questions are, what kind of mileage should I get and how are these vehicles for towing a small (17 ft) trailer.

lewmanjm · February 2004

I drive about 28 miles one way to work each day, mostly highway miles. I get about 16.5 mpg

whatnow2 · February 2004

I have a 2001 extracab tacoma v6 with manual 5 speed. I have gradually inceasing gas milage till now I get 17 in town and 21 highway. it pays to check it regularly if you want actual numbers.

dennyg637 · February 2004

I have a 2001 Tundra Limited with 66,000 miles and am experiencing a very weird brake problem. The problem is sporadic - at expressway speeds of 70-75mph it feels as if my ABS is engaging. The vehicle slows and when I pull to the shoulder and apply the brakes the whole front end shakes as well as the steering wheel. I can feel the front brakes engaging and disengaging just like an ABS stop on icy or wet pavement. After stopping for a moment or two I can reenter the freeway and continue on my way. Problem may re occur one more time as soon as I enter the freeway. Once I pull over again and reenter the freeway the problem disappears. Does this sporadically. Dealership has been unable to duplicate the problem and tells me everything is fine with my brakes. I have had the vehicle looked at by two different Toyota dealerships. My feeling is that there is a problem with an ABS sensor. I have contacted Toyota Customer Support and am waiting for a return call. Anybody have any suggestions.

ageyling · March 2004

Check the Ownership section on this site. I found several Technical Service BUlletins on the Tundra related to the front brakes.

ageyling · March 2004

Is anyone familiar with the spark plugs on the V8 Tundra Engine? I believe it is the 2UV-FE Engine. I have a 2003 and the manual says there are spark plugs but when I look at the engine, where the spark plugs should be there are flat rectangular black caps. The caps have a bolt holding them down adn there is a four pin connector attached. Following this wire to the harness, I find that the other 7 similar caps lead to the same harness and the harness goes in a large black cover on the front of the drivers side valve cover. So I assume these rectangular caps are the spark plug covers and the black cover on the front of the valve cover is the distributor, but this leaves me with one issue. Why four wires leading to the spark plug and why are they so small? Normally spark plug cables are much thicker due to the high voltage.

ageyling · March 2004

Found an answer somewhere else for a 2000 Tundra. I assume it is the same.

They are located under each coil boot...Instead of one ignition coil like in older vehicles...each spark plug has its own coil boot.

spyd · March 2004

Hey all. I have an 2001 Tacoma DC, I'm quickly reaching 50K miles and need to change all 4 tires, 5 with the spare. But I'm also thinking about trying to improve the ride quality by changing the shocks and struts, the ride is just a little too bouncy for me as an everyday driver. My questions are:
1. If changing the shocks and struts, along with new tires are enough to improve the ride, or is it there not going to be much difference?
2. Is there a particular brand/make I should be looking for?
3. Should I just get my tires changed and the 50K mile service, and save the money for the Scion tC for the "better" ride?

Thanx in advance
Spyd

dwbehrens · March 2004

To Questions 155 - 156...

These are called power packs, covering iridium electrode plugs. The is no distributor, the computer does it all. The four wires charge a small ignition coil for each plug, and communicate from the computer to a transistor switch in the power pack which discharges the secondary (high voltage) side of the coil to the plug.

To Question #140...

Buy an OBD II diagnostic tester for about $150 on Ebay along with the Toyota Shop Manual($200). The two will pay for themselves if they save you two trips to the dealer's shop. The OBD II will work on any car made after '95, so you can use it for your other cars and your buddies cars too.

reedfwa · March 2004

I have a 93 pickup with the automatic transmission shift on the steering column. The transmission will not come out of park. The owners manual does not say where the lock release is located for a column shift. Does anyone know how to get this sucker into drive so I can get it to the repair shop? The dealer has no clue.
All the fuses are okay.

Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions