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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • buffalonickelbuffalonickel Member Posts: 113
    Since that last posting the security alarm went off three times again on Wednesday 23 March with no provocation. I am going to lock the doors with the key. That way the alarm will not set but the doors will lock. The two ways the security alarm will set is the push button lock or the push button on the key fob. I once owned an old Nova that you had to bang the dash board with your fist to get the heater fan to go on. Looking back now I didn't realize how advanced that technology really was.

    Still waiting on California to respond to a real and definite fix for this dilemma.

    B
  • robl2robl2 Member Posts: 6
    Toyota offers paid public access to online repair manuals:

    "Toyota offers easy and immediate access to many service publications on-line through the Technical Information System (TIS). TIS is available to the public through a subscription at http://techinfo.toyota.com.

    Subscriptions to this information service can be purchased for daily, monthly or annual access. TIS provides access to all of the key service, maintenance, and reference publications necessary to support Toyota vehicles including:

    Collision repair manual
    Electrical wiring diagram
    Owner's manual
    Repair manual
    Technical Service Bulletins (TSB)
    Information is generally available for U.S. market vehicles starting from the 1990 model year, but specific information can be found in the TIS Library Content table. Please note that this site does not include any part catalog, ordering, or application information.

    The information found in TIS is presented in PDF format and requires the Adobe Acrobat®viewer for viewing and printing."

    The $10 for 24 hr. access could be useful for those who would like to perform their own maintenance/repairs. I'm not sure how cost effective this would be over the long run compared to purchasing printed copies of the repair manuals.
  • batterymanbatteryman Member Posts: 2
    I had an 89 Toyo PKP, 4X4, manual w/250,xxxmiles, had same problem when restarting after running. The cold start injector was leaking fuel, causing a flooding condition. Unplugged injector, problem solved. By holding accelerator to floor, a clear flood method, no fuel will be injected by processor---truck will start when hot, if cold start injector is defective.
  • batterymanbatteryman Member Posts: 2
    The Haynes manual for color code on ECM doesn't match what's on the truck. Has code 31 for Air Flow Meter, hard fault, values in limits at Air Flow Meter, but can't follow to ECM because of no match to values at processor. Truck stalls on acceloration, is manual trans. O2 is operating, catalitic is not restricted, temp sensor OK---all started w/no start problem, fuel pump wires in two, corrected that, now running problem.
  • vtxmenvtxmen Member Posts: 1
    It is possible that the wiring is already in place. All you would have to do is purchase the OEM fog lamps or after market substitutes and pop them in. You would also need to purchase the stock switch and the fog lamp relay which fits in the fuse box in the engine compartment.
  • bayvillabayvilla Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 Toyota Pickup with 105K miles and I am having a problem with the manual transmission occasionally popping out of gear. It only happens in 1st, 3rd & 5th and never after the clutch is engaged. When I remove the shift boots, the problem gets better but does not go away completely. I was also told that a new rear mount for the transmission might help, since it might have sagged over the past 12 years, but after I replaced it, the problem seemed to get worse.

    It is just not going into gear correctly in 1st, 3rd & 5th. Could it be that the clutch is not fully disengaging or maybe something in the shifter? I don't think it is internal to the transmission, because the things I have done seem to make a difference.

    Anyone have any ideas on what I should try?

    Thanks
  • coastie1coastie1 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2005 Tundra, Access cab 4wd.. i seem to have problem witht he tailgate closing tight, it closes and locks, but it seems not line up evenly, when it is closed.. has anyone had problems with this..Thanks you for you time.
    ">
  • pennitoypennitoy Member Posts: 3
    Hello, Having a few problems and need some second opinions.

    This is a 4 cylinder, 5 speed, manual transmission pickup with approx 99,000 miles.
    It started running a little rough on acceleration, so Toyota dealer cleaned fuel injecters and adjusted valves. Now the truck sounds like a tractor when it runs and idles very poorly. They say it is just fine and no problems, but maybe will need a timing chain one day, but I'll know if that happens (how will I know that?). What I don't understand is how these two services that should have improved performance actually made things worse and why they won't acknowledge any problems when the truck sounds so awful.

    Second problem, which I wasn't really aware of, is they tell me clutch is getting weak and will need replaced shortly. They say that clutch has to be almost released entirely before gear engages. The thing that I wonder about is that I have all of my service records from time of purchase of this truck brand new and this clutch has never once even been adjusted, but now they say it needs to be entirely replaced. I have heard that clutches can be adjusted. Is that not the case with these Toyota trucks?

    Yes, obviously, I'm a girl and know very little about vehicles, so any advice will be most appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  • msibillemsibille Member Posts: 275
    It's hard to diagnose the "sounds like a tractor when it runs" without hearing it, but idles poorly is not so good. I take it that you don't have a MIL indication (Malfunction Indicator Light or "Check Engine" light illuminated). If the MIL is on, you can have someone plug in an OBD reader, or with the OEM svc manual, jump 2 pins on the connector and read the trouble codes by counting flashes of the MIL light on the dash. Again, without hearing the engine for myself, it's hard to say, but I wouldn't think that the sound and the rough idle would necessarily be connected.

    Possibilities- air cleaner cover/ductwork not properly sealed (will give a throaty sound to it), bad exhaust manifold, piping, or seal; bad idle control solenoid (affecting idle).

    Regarding the clutch- if your clutch is operated by an hydraulic master cylinder (sometimes referred to as an hydraulic clutch) it is mostly self adjusting. Look on the firewall to see if you find a reservoir that looks a lot like a brake master cylinder reservoir, but that is not the brake master cylinder. (The clutch master cylinder will not have the big round "can" vacuum booster that you have with power brakes.) If you find a clutch master cylinder, it's likely that the clutch doesn't need adjustment (there should also be some reference in your owner's manual). 93K miles is not bad service from a clutch disc in any event. Cost shouldn't be outrageous unless this is allowed to go on so long that it damages the flywheel.

    I would not normally bring the clutch problem to a dealer, unless you're lucky enough to have found a svc dept that you have the greatest confidence in (like I have w/ the local Pontiac/Saturn dealership here). Find a good general mechanic shop with a lot of good references from friends, and see what they say. Perhaps get his opinion BEFORE committing to any repairs.

    Good luck.
  • reedfarmreedfarm Member Posts: 3
    I have not had this problem on my toyota, but have an 83 Mercedes that does the same thing and I know it's the transmission. Another possibility I can think of is a loose or broken motor mount.
    Let us know what the dealer says.
  • lubin5lubin5 Member Posts: 1
    The horn periodically goes off.
  • badbobp1badbobp1 Member Posts: 1
    Hey bayvilla, it's the transmission!! My 91 did the same things you are describing at around 110,000 mi and the final fix was new bearings in the manual transmission. I did it myself and the only problem I had was one bearing, it required a special puller that I didn't have. The local Toyota dealer said bring the shaft to them and they would pull it for me. It worked out great.
  • mgregorymgregory Member Posts: 6
    Hi, Did you ever figure out what was wrong. I have the same problem with my 2004 camry on the drivers side only. After two days of a driving rain storm, and my camry sitting in the drvieway, not being driven I might add, I had water on the driver side only, under the carpet, and soaking thru the carpet. No where else. Toyota wanted to say I drove High water like the rest of the idiots in Pensacola did, but I didn't, and my driveway wasn't under water. They are calling me a liar. Can you help me? MY car just came out of the shop the day before, for a new steering column mechanism. The next thing I know the driver's side is soaked and Toyota is making me take the fall calling me a liar. Please help. This car is still under warranty. I didn't drive in rain or water, it wasn't under water, it was just in a driving rain storm in my driveway.
  • mgregorymgregory Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I don't have a truck, but a 2004 camry xle. I am taking on water on the drivers side as well. We had a driving rain storm for 2 days here in Florida. I opened my door after not driving for 2 days and and found the the bottom door sill beaded up with moisture, and the carpet soaked from the gas pedal back under the drivers seat to the rear passenger seat. I was told oh you must have driven through high water like the other 20 cars sitting back there. 1. I didn't drive for 2 days, because the rain was so bad. Ther car stay parked in my driveway, and my driveway didn't flood, my house would have been under water, 2. why did only the drivers side get the water on it? 3. could it be coming throught the fire wall? 4. toyota is calling me a liar. This makes me angry. There is something wrong with their car
  • morticusmorticus Member Posts: 1
    Problem:
    When I accelerate from 0mph, at any speed of acceleration, I hear a knocking noise centralized (at least from the driver's seat) somewhere under the bed of the truck. I read other's posts about a knocking noise, but nothing near or under the bed. As if a bolt is loose, or something. Originally, it occured only when braking, also at any speed/rate of braking, which is still continues to do so. This happens, when accerating or braking, a good 9 out of 10 times. Annoying. Before I turn it to the dealership, please don't let me turn it to the dealership, any possible solutions or suggestions?

    Thank you.
  • oorickoooorickoo Member Posts: 2
    I bought my truck in Jan. 05. It seemed like it was holding back while Accelerating I cleaned out the Catalytic converter and reinstalled. It would not shift to over drive till it warmed up some. Now it its doesn't want to shift to 3rd gear or over drive till I'm over 50 miles per hour. also replaced the transmission filter. That did not help. Sometimes it does seem to work right which leads me to believe I have a sensor problem. I could sure use some help. Thanks
    Rick McCarthy
  • pennitoypennitoy Member Posts: 3
    thanks msibille,
    I'll look in to your advice and appreciate it all! :)
  • winder4390winder4390 Member Posts: 1
    You did not say whether you bought this vehicle new or used. I have a 89 Toyota camry V-6 that exhibited almost those same symptoms at 40,000...herky jerky motion when going into overdrive at 42 MPH. The fix was changing all the injectors, somewhere bad gas or due to time, the injectors became varnished and were all bad. Poor gas mileage too.

    You'll know you fixed the problem when you accelerate gradually and ease into overdrive, the transmission will shift smoothly and RPM will drop. Fixed my 89 but cost almost $900 for all six new injectors. I did the work myself with a friend on a Saturday morning, by 1PM all was fixed.

    In Germany, where that work was done, the Toyota dealer there had never had a car in their shop with injector problems. Obviously clean fuel and autobahn speeds clean things out!!
    Good Luck
  • jpataco03jpataco03 Member Posts: 2
    Howdy ya'll. Hoping someone can help me out. I've had my 2003 tacoma for about 2.5 years (bought brand new... now is pushing 30,000 miles).... and it's been treating me great. A few months ago thought it started to make this type of rattling noise that's kind of hard to describe. It's kind of high pitched shaking noise... (almost sounds like 2 pieces of metal shaking against each other or something)... the thing is when I press on the clutch the sound completely stops... I barely even have to touch the clutch and the noise always stops. If I'm in neutral the noise is at a steady pace, but when the rpm's pick up or I accelerate the noise gets faster. When this started the noise wasn't too bad, but now it's getting pretty annoying. It's not obnoxiously loud or anything, but you can definitely hear it inside and especially outside of the truck.

    Any thoughts or ideas.... please help!!!
  • deucemandeuceman Member Posts: 1
    Hi - I have the same problem, so it goes back as far as '81. Over a period of 2 years, I've changed carb; fuel pump, fuel tank, cleaned lines, changed filters, spark plugs, plug wires, ignitor and distributor. In the middle of all these changes; timing chain and gears were replaced and head was reworked; block and head were checked for surface level before reassembly. My problem starts with a turn of the ignition key. It will run fine for a while if I stay below 60 mph; but if I try for a freeway speed whether hot or cold; that's it - spitting and sputtering with my top speed steadily decreasing until it's about 25 -30 mph and I manage to limp off the freeway at the next exit. If someone has a cure for this problem, I'd really be glad to try it. I have been thinking of changing to a V6 or V8 and forgetting about Toy power all together.
  • slawdogslawdog Member Posts: 1
    This message is to all the girls that are crying over a " Squeak" . Listen up,,,, change out of your good clothes and put your work britches on, cause you might get you're hands a little dirty.Now,,,,using a good heavy duty machine oil,,,let a few drops of it seep in around the leafsprings BUSHINGS. don't be afraid to do both sides, cause we don't know which one might be the culprit. while you are doing some of this "routine stuff" look at the front and back strut and shock BUSHINGS too. They are sure in need of this tender loving care as well. I bet you that a small amount of oil will cost less than a " U Joint" job,,, I have a 95 Tacoma 4x4 with 242,000 miles and it loves me when I do these little things to her. never ever have had a major repair just simple Maintenance...............oh ,,to the dude with the rattle noise, sounds like the converter has some loose enternal material clangging. My Tacoma does it when it is cold just after I crank her up,,I guess it's been doing this for 3 yrs, but after it warms up it dissapates. You might need to have it checked out, depending on where you live, my State won't let it pass the emmisssion test with a rattling catalytic converter. good luck!
  • flormatt1flormatt1 Member Posts: 1
    i have this problem with my truck. i hope there's some1 out there who knows what it is.ok i have a 97 tacoma 2.4L automatic trans. reg cab. there's a grinding noise coming from the front. at first a thought it was the idler pulley so i replaced it. it's not it.i replaced the water pump. not it. i replaced the alternator.still not it.the weird thing about it is.when i take the alternator belt out the sound is not there, but as soon as i install the belt back on. the sound comes back on.please help any1.don't know what to check anymore.as you go on higher rpm the sound gets louder too. i replaced everything else. i need help . thanks...
  • sidmelsidmel Member Posts: 1
    Hey jpataco

    I just returned from the Toyota dealer when having a similar problem, except mine is a horrible squeak. Putting in the clutch stops it immediately, but while in neutral or in gear you can hear it loud and clear. They told me it's a tension pully on one of the belts directly beneath and to the left (facing the truck) the engine. I was told it needed to be taken off and oiled. While I was there, he sprayed WD40 on it while trying to identify the noise and has since made it twice as bad.

    Looks like a job for this weekend.
  • jango_barksjango_barks Member Posts: 2
    I've got the v6 2x4 and only get 16mpg! The ONLY complaint I can muster about my Tundra is the fuel mileage. I understand that the V8 gets better mileage. Is this because the larger engine, pushing the same frame, doesn't have to work as hard?

    Jango
  • jango_barksjango_barks Member Posts: 2
    Sorry to hear it. My '02 Tundra has been the best vehicle (except for the gas mileage) I've ever owned. Mine is as tight as a drum.

    jango
  • reedfarmreedfarm Member Posts: 3
    I have an 04 Tundra with the towing package.
    I need to install an electric brake controller for my trailer. The truck cane with a pig tail that plugs into the wiring harness for this purpose. The problem is the wires are a different color than the electric brake controllers on the market. I Spent 80 bucks on a controller and shorted it out by connecting the wrong wires. I've talked to 2 dealers and they were useless.
    Does anyone know the combination?
    Thanks
  • ghr4newghr4new Member Posts: 1
    I hope someone can help me solve my dilemma. I recently bought a '92 Toyota extended cab pick up truck. I soon noticed that whenever I applied the brake pedal several other lights besides the brake lights come on.
    The other lights that come on are: The front parking lights, the light that lights up the dashboard as well as the rear license plate light. I thought the problem might have been from a crossed wire from an aftermarket tow hitch wiring harness that had been installed. I removed the harness and all the wires associated with it, and re-taped the wiring. Still the lights continue to come on. The truck also had an aftermarket alarm system. A "Code Alarm Vehicle Security System", model 707 Plus 4.0. I removed the alarm and all its associated wiring, but still the lights continue to turn on. I even purchased a Chilton's repair manual with the hopes of tracing the wiring but the diagrams on these books nowadays are skimpy at best; it doesn't even show the wiring for the headlights! I remember their older books, they used to have pretty thorough diagrams. I guess not any more! I've disconnected just about everything, including taking the instrument panel out, disconnected all wiring leading up to the column to the light control unit. Disconnected the dimmer switch and still the other lights continue to come on. I hope someone can help me solve this problem.
    Thank you. ";
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    Good luck with sorting out your electrical problem. I admire how far you've gone on your own to solve it.
    You might have some luck if you post it on another board in Maintenance and Repair (I think), called Got a Quick, Technical Question? (I think).

    Re wiring diagrams - I wonder if the electronics on modern cars are so complex that they're harder to draw up.
  • hartmhartm Member Posts: 2
    Would someone please respond with proper torque spec.? Can not find service manual on this vehicle
  • wjfosswjfoss Member Posts: 3
    I have an '02 Tundra that has an intermittent squeaking/squealing problem in the engine. It usually occurs first thing in the morning from a cold start up. After driving several miles, the sound will go away and I'm good for the rest of the day. Even when it sits in the work parking lot after the morning drive in, the drive home is usually uneventful. The sound can occur anytime, in any weather, any season. Right now, the noise is rearing it's ugly head again and seems to be louder than ever. Sometimes it's little embarrassing driving the vehicle. At times, I can lessen the noise by kicking on the AC. I'm sure it's an issue with belts/tensioner/pulley. Just curious to hear if anyone has had this issue and if they found any resolution to the problem. I know this is a truck and it is not supposed to ride like a car. You are going to have different noise, sounds, etc. But with less than 25000 mi. and just under 3 years old, I think the sounds I'm hearing shouldn't be heard from a vehicle so young. I'm not too car/truck savvy, but I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty. If there is anything in way the of self-maintenance I can perform, educate me. Thanks.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Member Posts: 300
    For a Ten Spot, you can print / save as many procedures as you want for 24 hours here:

    http://techinfo.toyota.com/
  • donmdonm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 04 Tacoma PreRunner Doublecab that does the same thing...driving me crazy! For some strange reason my seat only creaks/squeaks when its cooler or raining outside. I need to get my 15k check-up soon and I plan to talk to the dealer about it. I'll let you know my results. If anyone else has this similar issue let us know.
  • bphillipsbphillips Member Posts: 3
    First and foremost, I want to apologize if I am somehow posting "wrong" here. This forum format is a bit unusual to me, with me being used to the type of forum where the OP starts his/her own thread (and I don't see how I can that here).

    Anyway, a few days ago I was driving on the highway at about 55 mph or so, and my truck just died . . . I mean just flat out and immediately died. It went from running great to not at all in a split second. It turns over (seems like it's turning over fast) but that's it.

    Now, I am absolutely NO mechanic, but the cousin who picked me up on the road that day told me that it could be the timing chain, but that was based on him having broken a timing belt on a little Hyundai hatchback...not a real good comp, but he said that was exactly how his vehicle acted.

    Then, I went to speak to another distant cousin who is a pretty good mechanic, to see if he felt like looking at it. He is pretty much retired, but I thought he may want some extra money. When I told him that the truck was a Toyota, he was a bit iffy, but when I replied to his question of engine size by telling him it was a 6 cylinder, he said flatly "No", that he didn't want to fool with a Toyota 6 cyl. We had been talking a bit about what he thought was wrong with it, and when I said "6 cylinder" and got his reply of "No", he immediately said "Ask D.M.'s son...he had a Toyota 6 cyl that did that, and they fixed it". Well, it turns out (and I told him) that the truck I was referring to here was THAT exact truck, as I had bought it from D.M.'s son...he said, "Well, call him up...he can tell you. It seems like it was something to do with 'the computer'".

    So, I called the old boy up, and he told me that he had had trouble with the truck twice like that. Once, there was a "ground wire" loose on "the computer", and that a fellow near here had fixed it. He didn't know where this "computer" was at, only that he recalled the fellow fooling with a "red wire" near the battery...or so he thought, anyway. His best recall.

    Let me interrupt myself here by again stating I am no mechanic, so forgive any screw ups in terminology, etc. I am just trying to repeat him as close as possible and as best as I can recall. If what I say makes no sense, it is only because I don't know enough to recognize that.

    The second problem he told me he had had was one where "a pin (shear pin/wedge??)" that held the timing chain sprocket started to lose integrity and would allow the sprocket to turn on it's shaft a bit....this would cause the truck to screw up a bit here and there until it finally came all the way loose, and it again stopped running until fixed".

    Well, I asked around again about the location of this "computer" and was told that it maybe "under the passengers seat" or "behind the glove compartment". I ordered a Haynes manual so that I could at least locate this "computer", and all I could find that seemed to be anything remotely like that was something that was not in the "Engine Electrical Systems" section, but in the "Fuel and Exhaust Systems" section, and it was called the "ECU". It is located, according to the Haynes manual, as being somewhere near the firewall on the passengers side. The way it is shown, however, I simply cannot tell exactly where it is, because it is drawn inside of a ghost image of the truck, and I cannot tell if it is in front of the firewall or behind it. When I pop the hood, I surely don't see what I can ID as this ECU, so I assumed it had to be inside (which would concur with the guy who told me that it was "probably behind the glove compartment"). There is a bundled cable that gathers from the engine area and goes through the firewall, and to me this would also seem to make me think that this wire bundle was heading toward this "computer"/"ECU".

    So, I pulled out the glove compartment, and I see, obviously, a good bit of some sorts of electrical components, wires, etc. There is a small, angular squirrel cage blower back there, and a "tin colored" metal box on the right panel that I can see the top of peeking out of the bottom plastic molding. That metal box looking thing, maybe an inch and a half thick or so, if that, seems to be MAYBE the thing that is labeled as the "ECU" in my Haynes Manual diagram, but that is a guess. Finding it may do me little to no good anyway, as I am not sure what, if anything, I can do anyway.

    Now, I am planning on leaving Friday and taking a weeklong trip, and I am find someone to fool with the thing while I am gone. But, in the meantime, I was going to scratch and grab a bit, especially if it possibly really is something as simple as a "loose ground wire on 'the computer'". As I said, I am not a mechanic at all, but I am not a total idiot either, in that I can kinda take instruction on this sorta thing. I am surely not a stranger to working with my hands. Again, without sounding like I am trying to oversimplify this, I am simply wondering if anyone out there has any hints that would be feasible for me to check out or look into. An example of this type of thing is a question thatmy brother and I posed to this very forum (under the unsername amosmoses1 (I think)) concerning a Lumina with AC blower problems. It turned out that it was a "vaccuum actuated switch" problem, which I easily found after being told what it may be (rats chewed through a vac line, believe that or not). I just thought that someone may have had a similar problem and could at least give me a heads up on what it could be. Simply, any and all advice would definitely be greatly appreciated.

    The only other thing that I could possibly add, which may not be even remotely related to this but I still want to throw in here, is something that happened about 6 months ago to me in this truck: I was heading home from a buddy's house about 100 miles from my home. I got on the Interstate, got up to about 70 mph, and did something rather unusual for me, I turned the blower on. I have AC in the truck, but I was always one who rolled windows down. I don't recall if I was turning on the blower for AC, for defrost or wahtever, but the truck started running rough as hell. I thought it was gonna die, and it would kinda kick on and off. It was related to the blower, but I didn't realize that at first. When I cut the blower off to listen to the engine better, it stopped, which made me make the correlation. It seemed to be worse at higher speeds and only, or mostly, on the "high" blower speed. It seemed like maybe it did it less or stopped doing it on the next to highest blower speed, but I can't really recall....being so farf from home, I didn;t wantto do anything but get closer to home. I intended to look into it later, and this may sound crazy to people out there, but I never did. I just forgot about it until now. It may have quit doing that, or I may have, as strange as this sounds, never have used the blower (at least on high
  • ase1gearhdase1gearhd Member Posts: 3
    :D this is a simple one. the horn relay is either stuck on or is intermitantly sticking, simply replace it. Its a switch that controls a higher amperage circuit by using a lower amperage circuit. It can be located by disconnecting the horn wire and listening for the relay to click when you push the horn button, in your case it will probably stick and only click once so pay attention for the relay click
  • ase1gearhdase1gearhd Member Posts: 3
    :mad: same thing has happened to my windshield. otherwise I really like my truck
  • dbh126dbh126 Member Posts: 7
    I am having the same problem and just spoke with the local Toyota dealer service dept. and they have no idea what I am talking about! I don't know if Toyota has an under the dash connector or not. I know Ford does if you have the towing package. I bought my Tundra from Mike Erdman Toyota in Merritt Island, FL. The truck was one of the sales managers and like most dealers they dump the contents of the glove box so I didn't even get the pigtail and nobody in parts knows what I am asking for.

    If you get help, please post.

    Thanks, DaSH126
  • robarrobar Member Posts: 1
    check out the brake light bulbs. you may have 1156 type, single filliment bulbs in place of 1157 type double filliment bulbs. that will cause feedback through the electrical system all the way to the dash.
  • cos289cos289 Member Posts: 8
    I just bought this pick-up and in prosess of fixing it up.It has 125000 miles on speedo,the temp gauge does not work.! replaced the sending unit,no change.the car has reached a warm temp,lots of heat from the heater.I"m thinking the thermostate is ok.Any suggestions??
    Also the motor emblem on the dash, lite up ( check engine ) what could this mean??

    Thanks for the reply. cos289
  • 91ota91ota Member Posts: 1
    Wow, First time ever on this site and I have the same exact problem as bphillips(347). Driving down the road engine just cut off. Thought it was the timing belt. My mechanic at the garage said it was a fuse and is now trouble shooting to see what may have blown it. Any ideas????? No earlier problems to indicate that something was going wrong...
  • baileys1baileys1 Member Posts: 16
    Me too!! my tacoma 2002 is doing the same thing, I found some nuts loose on the seat, but still doing the same thing. I'm planning to take the seat out to check it out. I will let you know what is going on. I WILL FOUND THE FU......... SQUEAKS.
  • baileys1baileys1 Member Posts: 16
    I need more info on that TSB, number? date? where can I have it? I thought that noise was from the tape/cd radio, please let me know.
  • tsjtsj Member Posts: 3
    I realize this is a late reply. I just found the site. I have had 4 brake jobs. One of them included new rotors. That is not counting the "NEW BRAKE SET-UP THE DEALERSHIP INSTALLED". my brakes will feel almost like the front end is hopping. Also I have anti-lock brakes but they sure don't feel like it. I've had to slam on my brakes and I skid, no locking. I always get the same answers though. It,s just because the truck is so heavy.
  • tsjtsj Member Posts: 3
    I have had endless brake problems with my 2000 limited edition 4x4 also. I thought that they would have fixed it by 2004. I guess I'll be keeping my 2000.
  • tsjtsj Member Posts: 3
    I don't think the brakes anti-lock like they are supposed to. i have a 2000 Tundra & have had many brake jobs including rotors. They even went as far as to replace the entire brake set-up infront including new calipers. I skid when I have to slam on my brakes. toyota tells me there is nothing wrong though. I have went as far as telling my family that if anything happens to me because of my truck to get an attorney.
  • flyfishermanflyfisherman Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a new 6 speed manual Double Cab. I was hearing a clanking noise when I would down shift. Also I could feel something not right in the clutch. I took it to the dealership and they wanted to take it into the shop. No more than 2 hours later did they call me back and tell me that a new transmission was being sent in and that they would have it done in 2-3 days.

    I asked the man what was wrong and he did not give me a straight forward answer and pretty much said that he had no idea. I asked if this was a recall and he informed me that it is not a recall. He did tell me that Toyota told him that they had switched companies and were using a different transmission and were having problems with it.

    Anyway, I was wondering if anyone else has been experiencing these problems and if so what have they done.

    Just to let everyone know. I do not know a whole heck of a lot about vehicles and this is also the first time on this site. I have already found it helpful.
  • william1951william1951 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1989 22re 4x4 that i changed blocks in using a block from a 22r that had a carb do i need to change the cam as well. it runs but seem to lack power and has a mild rough idle. i still have the 22re cam but an wondering if i losen the head bolts to change the cam will it cause the head gasket to let go by having taken the bolts out. the original motor spun a bearing. i would appreciate any help i have double checked everything else and this is the only reason i can think of as to why i would have a rough idle, lack of power and a light miss when driving at a steady speed. thanks for any help. Doug
  • ckline3783ckline3783 Member Posts: 3
    I am looking for a front license plate bracket for my 05 Tundra that will conform to the curver of the bumper but will mount a license plate flat. any suggestions?
  • cos289cos289 Member Posts: 8
    Hi ,what can I expect on gas mileage, from a 91 toyoto pickup,4 cyl. fuel inj. ,5 speed trans. Around town and highway????
    c0s289
  • gordonsgordons Member Posts: 1
    I have a 89 4X4 X-Tra cab, 22RE, 5-spd with 220,000 miles and get an honest 20+ MPG overall mixed driving.
  • northerntundranortherntundra Member Posts: 2
    Absolutely, I have the same issue. I posted it on the Tundra message board recently. I found an article online talking about misaligned drive pulleys and how the squeeking is caused by the v-grooves not hitting the teeth of the pulleys just right. It sounded fairly plausible. A mechanic can troubleshoot this condition by spraying a mist sprayer on the belts as they are moving. I guess moisture will cause the misalignment to make a greater noise. I'm taking my truck to the garage tomorrow and I will bring the article with me. I think I found it on http://www.gates.com
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