Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

2004dcab · June 2005

Hi, My 2004 Double cab was recently hit while parked and the driver and passenger doors had to be replaced. After getting it back, from the certified toyota body shop, I found a leak exactly as you explained. I had it in to the dealership body shop about 5 times and every time they explained that it had no leak. Finally the manager came over to my house to see the leak because he felt that it was due to the angle it was parked on that was caused it to leak. After I recreated the leak for him there, we parked a new 2005 tundra there and it leaked as well. This just happened today. I am waiting to see what they do, but I expect Toyota to step up to the plate and fix this problem. I could have purchased a GMC or Dodge for around $8,000 dollars less than I paid for the tundra. The ford that I parked in that spot for two years prior to this truck never leak. Other than the leak, I love the truck... Good luck keeping your tundra dry.

zirc · June 2005

Ok i usually dont post on these things but i read my chiltons and this forum and i am not so heavy on EFI so i thought i'd see if anyone else had the same issues.
while driving if i get on the gas too hard the motor will hesistate and stumble real bad...but if i gradually step on the throttle there's not an issue ( fyi 5 speed manual trans) it also has difficulty starting ...but once started the issue isnt as severe as when i've driven it for awhile. I already changed the fuel filter ( what a nightmare, i wish i had the hands of the 8 yr old for that!!) the check engine light is on...but i was wondering if anybody knows or has any "its this stupid!!!" fixes ...i have a feeling its something really simple ..

as a note i am in the navy and it sits for awhile sometimes and it started immediately after i drove it up onto a curb one day parallel parking and came down of the curb kinda hard ....when i returned is when the headache began...it wouldnt start and i had to get home...so i pulled the fuel filter and poked a hole in it as a get my butt home fix and it worked but with the stumbling when my right foot got heavy (theres was no check engine light initially). i put a new one in.....and it was better but has gotten worse over the last 2 or 3 weeks and also i guess the 76 stations around here (western WA) had been sellin crappy gas too and thats where i was goin at the time..

toml1 · July 2005

Has any clarification of this problem been offered by Toyota?

bphillips · July 2005

This is an update of sorts from post 347...

Briefly, I had an '89 Toyota 4X4 6 Cyl, and driving down the road, the thing kills just like it was pole axed. I mean, driving fine one second, dead as a hammer the next second (See Post 347). OK, so I am no mechanic whatsoever, but I was gonna scratch and grab a bit and see if I could figure out what's wrong before sending it somewhere, with a bit of help from a Chilton's Guide and a Hayne's Guide.

Now, I didn't even check to see if it was getting fire, which in hindsight I probably should have first off....

I pulled the glove compartment out and also the cover from the inside passenger side sidewall to see the "computer" (I am assuming the "computer" is the ECU per the guides), because the boy who owned the truck before me had a similar problem and said that a "wire had come loose from the computer". He didn't fix it personally, but that was the best of his memory what the old boy who fixed it said it was.....he seemed to recall that it was a "red wire", maybe one that had something to do with "the battery"????, but this could all be incorrect. I am just stating it to try to give as much info here as I can. I couldn't see anything obviously wrong, so I figured I'd look at the timing belt (the reason there is because the same old boy who had the "computer problem" had a similar problem twice...once was this mysterious "loose computer wire" and the next time was a timing belt problem, one in which he said that some sort of "keyway pin came loose allowing it to jump timing"...again, I am merely repeating what he told me.

I pulled off the timing belt cover first off just to see what it looked like...the belt looked fine, and I turned the crank until the little marks on the camshaft gears (?) lined up with the marks up above, and the rotor was passing where the #1 cylinder contact would have been had the distributor cap been on, and the timing mark was where it should have been, so I knew it wasn't a problem with the timing (please excuse any improper terminolgy...like I said, I am no mechanic whatsoever, and I am relying on a Chilton's Manual the same way any layman would use a medical surgical journal to do surgery on somebody....I am that mechanically retarded).

I noticed that the distributor cap contacts looked like unmitigated hell, the worst that my father had ever see, and the worst I had ever seen, but of course I have seen very few myself. Four of them looked like something that had been exposed to brine, and were more than rusty, they were absolutely corroded. So, I went and got a new rotor, distributor cap, along with air filter, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, oil and filter, belts, figuring I'd change the whole nine yards while I was in there...we really figured that the problem was the distributor cap after seeing it. I changed everything out, and having broke a bolt from the distributor when I took the cap off, as well as breaking off an ease out in the little bolt, I cleaned the distributor real good and used two bolts as well as a tiny bit if RTV to keep the distributor cap on. All spark plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap had been changed. I tried to fire the truck up, still no go.

Well, THEN I checked to see if I was getting fire, and I wasn't. My dad, who knows a bit about mechanics but a helluva lot about electronics after working 35 years as an Installer for Western Electric/AT&T Technologies/Lucent, got a multimeter and started poking around, and he told me that the "coil was bad". What he did, as he FINALLY explained it, was "Ohmed it out....checking the primary and secondary coils in relation to each other, and the primary coil". He doesn't explain anything to idiots like me...we speak different languages, and he said that "he could not explain what he did without a schematic"....when I first asked him what he did to check the coil, he acted like it was ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE to explain, even if he were to try to explain it someone else "who was versed in electronics". I kept imploring if not begging him to tell me what he did so that I could post this accurately, and eventually that was when he told me that he "ohmed it out....checking the primary and secondary coils in relation to each other, and the primary coil". That was like pulling teeth, and I consider myself EXTREMELY lucky to get that out of him...those 18 words took about 18 minutes to get. Now, I was standing there when he did this check on the coil last night, but I had no idea what he was doing, and he used two multimeters to do it, even doing it again with the removed coil later inside the house.

Well, I scratched around and finally found a coil at an AutoZone about 40 miles from here, so I picked it up and put it in the truck, and tried to fire it up, assuming 100% that this would be it and it would be a done deal....still wouldn't crank! My Dad got the meter out, checked at the new coil with it, said it was good, and asked to look at the old coil. I got it, and when I was bringing it out I dropped it, and when he checked it again, he started scratching his head, looking confused. He said that the old coil was "[now] good"....so, where we stand with that is assuming that he must have screwed up testing it last night because the thing surely didn't heal, and dropping it wouldn't have "fixed" it. The thing is that he checked it several times last night, and we still don't know how he could have screwed up like that. He thought for a second that maybe the coil wire had somehow been "burnt" and there was a slight gap between the burnt ends that the drop may have "reconnected" enough to make it "OK" again, but that was mere hypothesis, and he is the first to admit that he doesn't know anything about the manufacture of these coils. He KNOWS what he's doing with schematics, but we simply assumed that he must have screwed up testing the old coil, and that it was actually good all along....that's all we can assume.

So, he checked to see that "the battery was getting to the igniter and coil", and it was. The coil is definitely good now, but we still are not getting fire from it. He figured that maybe it was the igniter, but we are wondering how to go about ruling out that it is the igniter without having to buy one and swap it out.

I assume that is what we need to check out next...the igniter....it would surely seem that it is the igniter, distributor, or the ECU, but how would one go about checking that out? If there was at least a way to rule out the igniter, that would be a good start.

I aplogize for the length of the post, but I am a firm believer in if I am going to ask someone for advice, I REFUSE to do so unless I can explain the situation as fully and as explicitly as I can. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I would love to know what the results were from Post 354 (91ota) after his mechanic traced the problem out, but I couldn't email him, as his email was pr

ekartanowicz · July 2005

I just bought a new 2005 Toyota tacoma prerunner last week. Its a manual 5 speed and I have problems with getting it to crank of the first try. Its starts up the second time perfectly and runs great. Its just annoying that its brand new and doesn't start right away like most new cars should. I am taking it in to have it inspected tomorrow by toyota dealer ,but has anyone had the same problem?

george0129 · July 2005

Recently my a/c went out on me. I took it to the shop and was told that either my compressor or condensor (cant remember) was melted and needed to be replaced. The mechanic also said that it would be 500 to replace (the part) and another 500 for service. seemed a little steep so i wanted some opinion on whats going on

Thanks

mitundra · July 2005

This may be a stupid question for those who have done this already, but what is the procedure for replacing the O2 Sensor on my 00 Tundra. I looked at these for a minute the other night and couldn't plainly see any head to mount a wrench on securely. Any help would be apprecitated.

The history of my 2000 Tundra goes as follows. It is a SR5 4wd Access Cab V-8 that I purchased new in May of 2000. It had some vibration problems in the begining and was remedied with a couple of tire balancings. I installed new pads in the front at around 45000 miles. I had a transmission problem starting around 53000 miles. It would shift so hard it felt like it was going to blow then it would run fine. It was in the dealer several times for this and everytime they said they couldn't pinpoint the problem. It finaly went at 58000 miles an she was done. I was given a Matrix for a loaner while they replaced the tranny with a new one. This took them 4 weeks to get the tranny and another few days to fix. They had my truck for 27days and the bill would have been $2800 but it was covered under warrenty.

I installed a set of Goodyear AT/D tires and they might has well have been square on this truck they drove like crap for two years till I couldn't stand it anymore. I replaced those with a set of Bridgstone Dueller HL alenzas and they are awesome. The parking brake seized around 80000 miles and then I developed a slight vibration at braking. I had the rears inspected and they said they were fine but wanted to charge over $400 to replace the front rotors and pads. I was able to get the best pads and two new rotors for $121 out the door and did it myself. This was done at 96000 miles along with changing the spark plugs and gear lubes. Unfortuantly I still have a slight vibration that I think is a warped rear drum. It has developed a slight exhaust leak that is likely a crack in the header.

The truck now has 102000 miles and the check engine light just came on for the first time. I reset it and it was off for a day then came back on again. All in all it's been a great truck but has had more problems than any other of the 4 Toyotas I have owned. I want to dump this truck and get a new one but I want to wait to get the new plastic bed on the Tundra and I would really like diesel. I may be shopping for a domestic diesel soon if the price is right. I thought I would have 0 problems with this one to 120000 miles but it was not the case here, and miine is far better then alot of those on this and other websites.
Hope somebody has an answer for the O2 Sensor replacement I figure I can do both around a hundred cheaper then the dealer can do one for. So what do I have to lose .
Thanks.
Dan

mikefm58 · July 2005

Not sure if it's the same as my Mustang, but there's a special socket for an O2 sensor. Did you run the codes to be sure it's the O2 sensor that is causing the check engine light?

tnihart · July 2005

I have the same noise with my 04 Tundra (Crew Cab). The dealership has been great about trying to figure out/fix the problem, but as of today the noise is still there and I am still not happy. Long story short - rubbing/vibrating noise associated with front diff/driveline most noticeable between 10 and 25 MPH. Noise goes away in 4WD. It is NOT the tires - they replaced all of my tires with a better brand and the noise stayed. It is NOT the fluids - they replaced all of my diff fluids and the noise remained. They have had several techs and regional service reps look at it and the last answer I got was that it is probably some type of design flaw that does not affect the safety or performance of the vehicle. It is just VERY annoying - especially when I am paying over $30K for the thing. I could have bought two vehicles for the same and probably never had an issue! The tech said that the front diffs that he has replaced because of the same noise only made the noise worse. That has led him to believe that the noise "gets better with time" as the diff loosens up...not a good answer. Not sure what to do next - probably write a letter to Toyota, but will get nothing more than satisfaction of complaining. I don't expect much more help...I will be trading the vehicle in as soon as I can break even.

burnedbygm · July 2005

Can anyone suggest a good aftermarket replacement muffler for a V6 T100 4x4 xtracab? I don't drive the truck much except on icy roads to work in the winter. I bought it new in 1995 and have 45K on it. The muffler has rusted out and I want to replace with a low back-pressure flowmaster or some other brand, hopefully in stainless so it doesn't rust out from short trips. I checked some of the on-line muffler 'selectors' but haven't found anything except OEM Borsal at $131.
Thanks

pacoman187 · July 2005

I recently lowered my taco with a 3/4 drop, a kit by DJM. The rear is great the front though is a problem. I have 18" rims the stuck out past the fender and now rub BAD on turns. Any suggestions, might have to remove the front part of the kit. Can anyone tell me if a prerunner fender will fit my 2WD Xtra Cab?

teeundra · July 2005

Hello all,

I purchased a 04' DC used with 24 k on it and pretty much since day one, it's had a humming noise coming from the rear of the truck. I chalked it up to wind noise but reading through the forums I'm wondering if there isn't more to this noise. It really only happens around 40-50 MPH and sounds almost like a harmonic imbalance. Anyone else having this same noise? I read through the problems others have had with their shocks but I don't believe it's that. Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks

buckeyedwt · July 2005

My tundra now has 75,000 miles and the check engine light comes on. I've reset it many times but it continues to come on. I've checked it with the computer analyzer and it says I have small leak in the evaporization control system. What should I check ?

eschneid · July 2005

I've got a 94 T100 with the 3.slow v6. Wouldn't start the other day, so I jumped it from a buddy. Happened again, so I checked it out. Battery was good, pulled the alternator and took it to O'Reilly's. When they checked it out they said it was okay, putting out 14 volts. When I brought it home and put it on the mult-meter I was looking more at 13.0 to 13.5 volts. Is there any reason that anyone could think of that the alternator would put out less juice when installed? Or was the guy at O'Reilly's trying to get out of a warranty swap?

msibille · July 2005

Cheap and easy things first-

Check your fuel cap O-Ring for cuts, cracking, etc. that would prevent sealing.
Check the filler neck for gouges, dents or dings (maybe from some ham-fisted station attendant? - I actually had someone fill my rental car in Alberta last month!)

Then, check for any obvious physical damage to the canister, check the vapor line between the canister and the fuel tank, check other lines from the canister.
Check for leaks between fuel tank and engine compartment.

Good hunting!

-m

msibille · July 2005

Generally 13.5 to 15VDC is in spec.

Possibilities-

* Your meter or OReilly's (or both) is a bit off. (I'm willing to bet that there's no calibration sticker showing the last time it was checked to a standard. -But then, neither is there one on mine at home.)

* Belt slippage and/or low RPM.
Check the engine rpm to see if in spec.
Try speeding the engine to 1100 rpm or so and recheck.

* Ground issues. Where did you measure the voltage?
Did you carefully check the ground connections? Btwn battery and chassis, engine and chassis, alternator and chassis? A bad ground will not only cost you voltage in charging the battery, but may also offset the output of the alternator.

(Actually, for nearly every 12VDC system problem, the first thing to check is the condition of grounds.)

Good hunting.

tacoma07 · July 2005

Does anyone know a good website or parts place to get a power steering inlet hose, the high pressure one for a '99 Tacoma?

wrknnn · July 2005

IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SYSTEM OR A LOSS OFF FLOW CHECK YOUR FUEL PRESSURE AND AIR FILTER MAKE SURE YOU DON'T HAVE A BLOCKAGE. ALSO YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK YOUR CAT FOR RESTRICTION. AND YOUR FUEL FILTER.

eschneid · July 2005

I added an additional (heavier) ground wire to the frame, and the condition seemed to improve. Thanks for the tip.

>Erik

issisteelman · July 2005

Hi folks,

I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma (4wd, standard) and recently ran into a problem with the emergency brake. The e-brake locked up on me one day. Apparently this is a common problem for Tacomas (according to the garage) and the temporary solution (to get out of a jamb) is relatively simple and the actual repair is not that costly. If this happens to you, a small hammer will release the brakes until you can get the truck to the garage for a permanent fix. The e-brake cable is connected to a small lever on the back side of the brake drum. Locate these levers (1 per drum) and take your hammer and tap the lever towards the drum. This will release the e-brake at each drum. You can then drive the vehicle. This problem is caused by rust build-up on the pivot point of these levers. This rust prevents the lever from returning to the normal position (freezing the brakes). The mechanic at the garage says this is a common Tacoma problem and he has fixed many of them. The fix is simple (no parts cost, approximate 2 hour labor charge). They simply remove these levers (I think they are held on by 2 bolts), blast clean them and paint them and then re-install them. The problem is easily fixed in one afternoon. They charged me $100 (2 hours @ $50/hour) for this repair (more than fair in my opinion). By the way, this is the first problem I've had on my 2001 Tacoma and I use it in the woods on dirt roads (with mud) all of the time (knock on wood). Hope everyone else is having good luck with their Tacomas. Take care........Brungy.

mike00beth1 · July 2005

I own a '99 Tacoma PreRunner XCab 3.4L. I passed 60K and checked the brakes. Long story short, my front outside brake pad is just on the replace limit. Bought the pads, jacked the truck, all the normal stuff. After taking the pins out, I CANNOT remove the pads on the left side. Either one is completely unmovable. I tried using vice grips - no luck. I tried to tap them with a hammer and then pull - no luck. (I don't dare try to mess with the right side)

So, I admit defeat and try and put everything back together only to realize I'm in a pickle. In the process of tapping with the hammer, I've managed to move the pads just enough inward to mess up the alignment of the retaining pins. Now I can't get the pins back in completely. Wonderful!

Oh, some background, the truck has been in the snow, salt, slush environment of upstate New York for most of its lift. There was a lot of rust crud in and around the pads and calibers.

Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks,
Mike, Upstate New York

baileys1 · July 2005

It's true, I got the same problem on my 2002 Tacoma Prerunner and my cousin, who's got a 1989 told me when I bought mind. Thanks for the fix, I thought it was something simple like that.

baileys1 · July 2005

I don't have that MID-RANGE either on my radio and I bought this truck brand new, I will check out my book and let you know later.

dpiper · July 2005

I have a 2005 toyota tacoma single cab 5 speed and my truck is doing the same thing and it only has 14000 miles on it the dealership first told me it was normal compressor noise yeah right. then they told me it was gear rattle and they changed the gear oil and added a additive and it made it a little more quiet but it is still there so i am trying to get it replaced under the lemon law but check out your gear oil it might need to be changed. Hope it helps email me back

footpounds · July 2005

You probably have a MID-RANGE but it is "hidden". You have to press the tuner knob and hold it in for approx. 10-15 seconds. You will then hear a BEEP. Release the knob and then press it again to get to the adjustments. You will notice that you now have a MID-RANGE that you can adjust. Be advised however that unless you turn the radio off BEFORE you turn the ignition off or if you start your truck with the radio on, the MID-RANGE will be gone and you will have to repeat the above procedure to get it back. Enjoy your new adjustment and yes, it does make a nice difference! (I don't know why this is hidden and my owner's manual makes no mention of this either...go figure)

scotts93toy · July 2005

I have a 93 toyota pickup with a 22re and a 5spd it started making a loud knocking sound from the front upper corner of the motor. It doesn't sound like a bad rocker or arm but rather a metal piece loose in that area banging around. It almost sounds like the distributor shaft is broken but I pulled the cap and rotor and the shaft doesn't wiggle around. Another reason I believe it may be something electrical is because when I drove the truck I came to a stop the engine would rev itself up to around 3,000rpm with no input from me. The truck still has the same amount of power and runs perfectly except for the knocking and the revving.
PLEASE HELP

kimos4x4 · July 2005

Similar problem with my 1993 toyota V6 3.0L. Toyota Tech spent 16 days before finding root cause to be water temp sensor. Sounds like your water temp sensor feedback when truck is warm unstable. Of course when its cold nothing is wrong. Well Good Luck
Regards,
Kimo

conniec · July 2005

Does anyone have any information on the head recall? I have a 1995 xtracab DX & a 1996 xtracab SR5 4WD. I had received a card in the mail and can't find it. The dealer knows nothing about it. I would appreciate any info anyone might have...I've never had trouble with either truck and both have well over 150,000k.

conniec · July 2005

Hi, I'm looking for info on the head recall...my dealer doesn't know anything about it. Can you give me some info?

c2rosa · July 2005

Front suspension problems could hinder steering and cause crash.
Models:
774,856 vehicles including 01-02 4Runner, 01-04 Tacoma, and 02-04 Sequoia and Tundra. Hazard exists because front suspension lower ball joint could wear excessively and become loose, resulting in increased steering effort. If the lower ball joint separates completely, driver could lose steering ability.

jimmcc · July 2005

Hello, I bought an 05' Double cab, 4x4 off-road pkg, 6 spd manual last friday, and was wondering if anyone has experienced the engine reving up when coming to a traffic/stop light? It revs about 1500-200 rpm's for a few seconds while in neutral before idling down. I went to the dealer and they said (after a phone call to Toyota) that it does that to clean out the converter. It sounds fishy to me so I thought I'd ask. I apologize if this was covered in a previous post.

jimmcc · August 2005

Ok, I guess everyone just posts questions but no one actually gets an answer.

baileys1 · August 2005

thanks for the info footpounds! will try it

baileys1 · August 2005

jimmcc, we answewring by posting a new message when we do have a answer...

msibille · August 2005

I suspect that everyone who has not noticed it is standing aside for anyone who has to post. FWIW, I've never noticed it w/ my 2005 DC Taco.

Understand that if everyone who has not noticed a similar prblm posts, you'll have hundreds, maybe thousands of responses that give you very little help.

boone88rr · August 2005

I have the 4x4 V6 6-speed Access Cab. I haven't experienced that but I've read that other people have. I'm not sure if it was on edmunds or toyotanation. Funny thing is they all had automatics. It seems strange that a manual would rev up in neutral. Yours is a fairly new truck so it's entirely possibly the trucks computer is getting a bad reading from the cat and trying to remedy itself. It may have been sitting on the lot or something for a while collecting condensation. The response you got seems plausible, that is the reason the engine revs so high on startup is clean out the emissions. If it doesn't stop in the next week or so you might want to try and disconnect the battery for 10 min and reset the computer then reconnect and drive it around. If none of that solves the problem, take the truck to the dealer.

jmc1975 · August 2005

I've got the same problem, however, my problem is just into overdrive. I have a '94 Xtracab 4x4 with V6 and Automatic. It currently has 84k on it. I have thought about replacing the thermostat but haven't done so yet. I had a similar problem on a '92 Honda Accord and a new thermostat fixed the problem. Good luck!

billyboy03 · August 2005

Is it hard to change the oil in a 1999 Tacoma 2 wd 5 spd transmission. The truck is new to me and the dealer wants $ 59.95 to do it.

bad4andy · August 2005

Hi,
It appears you are getting some advice. Some of their theories sound feasible. If they prove otherwise and the dealership doesn't help you. Try www.toyota.com. Its worked for me a couple times. If I can find the time, I'll try searching also (my curiosity is getting the best of me). Good Luck

jimmcc · August 2005

Thanks guys (and gals if any) for the numerous responses. I called Toyota myself yesterday and they refered me back to my dealership. Go figure. Anyway the problem seems to be going away. I have 674 miles on the vehicle and it now only revs to about 1200 rpms before coming to a nice idle at about 750-800 rpms. Maybe its programmed during break-in or something.

eric666 · August 2005

My 05 Taco v6 also does the RPM thing..I figure because of the fly by wire accelerator. I have noticed a few different quirks with the truck,,but until it is broken in I will let most slide,,1400 km

zork51 · August 2005

Hello,

I currently drive an 03 Tacoma SR5. I'm 51 with lower back problems at times. However, I don't have complaints about my current ride. I have a deposit on an 05. TRD with the Sport seats, but they bother my back as well as my fiance'. I asked the manager today if I could get the "regular" cloth fabric seats like in my truck now. He said Toyota wouldn't do it for legal reasons in the event of a crash. So it looks like I may have to pass on this beautiful truck, because of lower back discomfort. I have no problem with the 03.

It is also a few db's quieter at highway speeds but I thought that would be better also. HOWEVER, this issue is the seats. It seems to get all the goodies, you have to get sport seats????

Does anyone know if the 06's will be better for seat option/comfort???

Thanks

tundradude · August 2005

Got my brakes done last year, and got the front bearings done last week. No problem with the oxygen sensor yet. Hopefully, this will be the last of them. At least all the work is free.

I hope the new Tundra fares better.

baileys1 · August 2005

Hey guys! I found the problem!!! I toke my seat out the truck and put it on a bench. I lub every parts of it with a oilless lubricant and I think the squeaking was coming from the attachement of the spring holding the bottom coussin, under the seat. Anyway, no more sqeaking!!! Enjoy the ride!

rvaldez · August 2005

Hello, I just bought a new 2005 Taco double cab. I sat in the sport seats and they too were unconfortable for me. I decided on going with the SR5 package #5. The seats were upgraded and felt fine. Hope this helps. Check out the package on Edmunds accessories for the Taco.

numbbers · August 2005

Well bb, did you ever find a solution to this problem? I have the same thing happening on my '89, only it is 1st and 2nd.

ric4 · August 2005

I have electric locks on my 02 Tacoma, and i have purchased a keyless entry kit. Has anyone done this installation already? Any tips on where to locate the control module? It comes with a 10 pin harness , and a 3 pin harness for the locking pulses to the lock master switch. Also, any tips on the installation process will be helpful. I don't need to reinvent the wheel! Thanks for any suggestions. ric4

donea · August 2005

I also have a 2005 Tacoma 2x4 w/manual transmission that rattles terribly in idle, it is so bad that on a hot day it sounds like a big diesel truck! I thought it was the AC compressor at first because it was more prominent with the AC on, but the dealer discovered it was in the transmission and it is just more prominent when the idle kicks up with the AC on. Like you guys, they tell me it is "normal". Hard to sell me on this. They are now offering to put in a synthetic gear lube under duress - any ideas?

msibille · August 2005

Sounds like bad throw-out brg, clutch fork arm, or pressure plate.

andygil · August 2005

For the past few months, I have had an awful musty smell coming from my AC unit in my 2002 Tundra. Any advice on how to clean this out would be appreciated.

andy

Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions