Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
While you're in there, replace the oil pump and water pump. It doesn't add much to the cost, and you won't have to worry about doing them in the near future (because you will if you don't replace them!). You'll have to replace the chain and guides (simplex chain on plastic guides, hence their wearing out!). You can buy a kit, with new cover, on eBay pretty cheaply. Make sure you fix this soon, because the chain will rub through the aluminum cover/housing, and there's water on the other side which will mix with oil if there's a breach.
Oh, and the trick to removing the oil pan easily is to undo the motor mounts and jack up the engine as much as possible. This way you don't have to try to remove the steering arms (I never could get those blasted things apart!). Give me a shout if you have any more questions (click on my e-mail link at www.drjing.com).
Thanks!
kcram - Pickups Host
If you want that here, then I'm fine with that. Just trying to be courteous toward other members and this board, since the format is one long list of posts, as opposed to compartmentalized postings.
has had the problem of the fuel injectors going bad or
getting plugged every 10,000 miles or so. I have already
replaced one after getting a "check engine light" epi-
sode(misfire on cylinder 2), and it ran alot better
for awhile, but its starting to run a little poorly
again. Was just wondering if anyone else has run in to
this problem.
thanks to anybody who can get me in the right
direction
kcram - Pickups Host
There is your problem.
What the heck is that engine noise ??
thanks,
BUDDY
I have the same on a 2000 - 4runner .
the Right directional signal comes on every time that I press on the brake pedal.
Anyone out there that can help me?
Thanks, Nick
I have the same on a 2000 - 4runner .
the Right directional signal comes on every time that I press on the brake pedal.
I checked all the bulbs, and they are correct and ok.
Anyone out there that can help me?
Thanks, Nick
When going 40-50 and accelerate lightly the trans. kicks down. It does not shift to 3rd gear, but I do not know what gear it is shifting to. It makes a thunk when this occurs. If I push the gas more it shifts fine. Other shifts are fine. Is this thunk normal or is the tranny about to go?
Thank you
Thanks,
JD
Sounds like a great deal to me. (although I'm guessing your're really talking about a rebuilt engine) You don't say whether it's V6 or V8, but either way, $2000 for either remfged engine installed sounds like a good price to me.
In 2002 I bought a wrecked 2000 sst tacoma put 115K. no problem but a engine lite at 95K never fixed, did hesitated at slow speeds. too rich I think.
Now I have fixed several wrecked trucks for neighbors and am running into all kinds of problems with the Prerunners
Parts are very expensive. Flairs on wheels cost $900. for 4 and rubbbers to seal against body 25 for plastic holders
and you cant take off with out ruining them. No stainless screws like honda to hold on this junk big long plastic squares that you screw to and they break and turn about time you get snug.
Front bumper has fillers (plastic) on top of chrome bumper with 20 holes to hold on 8 ozs of flat plastic cost $120. Never had them at all in 90s. Plastic door handle for tundra is 88.00 Can buy from same factory in japan costs $20 for any toyota handle. Have lots of trouble with sensors, Idle air control motors last about 90K cost 200+ GIVE ME A OLD 94 with the 22R motor and 30 mpg.
$100.00 headlights now ($5.00 in 96). looks better also
. Twin cam gets only 24mpg. R22 pulls better with a load to farmer floyd-florida
Thanks for the help
Jay
P.S. Love the truck. No more Rams for me!!
Thank you for your help
a) It's not so much the weight of the rim as the rolling radius. The distance from the roadway to the ctr of the hub is a lever, increasing that increases the braking torque required to provide a given brake force at the ground level. However, if the OEM designed the vehicle to accept optional wheel assemblies of the same or larger size, no prblm. If not, then yes, you are going to have inferior braking capacity.
b)The rim size is not the whole story. What you need is the "rolling radius" of the new tire vs. the rolling radius of the original. The 3" rim size difference would imply an increase of 3" in diameter, but if you have a lower profile tire than original, the increase won't be that much. Take the new rolling radius, divided by the original. Multiply that times the speedo reading for actual speed if the speedo was not recalibrated.
c) Same as (a) above, with addition of the additional "unsprung weight of the heavier wheel assembly will give a rougher ride and likely result in tires leaving the pavement more.
d)With lower profile, you have less spring space available from the tire. A severe hit (like a curb) is more likely to damage the rim.
Perhaps Toy is not aware of the dealer's actions, or maybe it is authorized, you'll have to ask.
Recalibration- ask.
Again, you need rolling radiuses of each wheel. Even so, if you drive SLOWLY and carefully, it may not be worse than the "compact spares" we find in autos.
A. I cannot believe that in almost 20 years of doing replacing tires for a living, I have never heard the weight issue, but it makes sense just like a heavier flywheel is harder to slow. Don't think ther is that much difference though by the time you factor in less tire weight. B. The speedo should have been adjusted if the truck comes with the package new. Also, as mentioned above, the outer diameter of the tire is probably close, which would make little speedo difference. C & D. Yes you will lose handling and increase possibility of damage to not only the rims, but also windshields, shocks, struts, body parts, other suspension parts, .... You have a significant decrease in sidewall size which would absorb alot of stress from bumps. Why do the manufacturers allow these safety hazzards on the highways? For the same reason that tire manufactures make them and tire dealers started installing them after refusal for many years...money. From what I saw, kids would come in with daddy's credit card to buy this junk and then return for repairs and new wheels with the same card again. Some argue that low profile tires are usually wider which puts more meat on the ground for handling. Ya, and if the tire is 30% wider, you also have 30% less weight on any given area of the tire. That is why skinny tires wirk so much better in water and snow. You have enough weight to keep the tires on the gound instead of riding up. On perfect pavement, you will likely get better traction out of wider tires. Hit a bump or a puddle and you will be on a carney ride.
Thanks for your help.
Not only should the light go out after a predetermined time, but if you take off it should go out at about 3 MPH. If time shuts it off but not driving, you need to go back to the dealer. It is a safety thing to not be on when driving.
However, if you have the original battery in it, it's quite possible. The sulfation of the battery over time results in flakes of the plates falling to the bottom of the cells. The cells have some empty space at the bottom to accommodate some of this without shorting the cells, however, eventually, some of the material will short some of the cells. This weakens the battery by allowing additional internal discharge and reducing the amount of active plate area. Most lead acid automotive batteries succumb in 4-5 yrs. (some make it far longer, some croak in 3 yrs) Prior to becoming completely useless a large part of the reserve capacity is lost. (Most of my batteries have died in the early winter, often I find the prblms right after the first cold night or two, when the early morning start up requires the most oomph from the battery.)
Anyway, the point is that if you have a 3 yr plus battery, it may serve you for another year or so if not forced to maintain a charge for more than a week without recharging, but it may not be all it was before.
OTOH, it should be possible to disconnect the battery and test the leakage in the system to determine if it is above spec.
If you have a relatively new battery, the vehicle should be able to sit idle for a week or two and still start.
When you say the battery is dead- do you mean completely dead (nothing works, no horn, cab lights, radio, nothing?) or will it just not start the vehicle?
I also liked your post about oil changes on the other Toyota thread.
Best, ss4
kcram - Pickups Host
I would rather not pay dealership prices, however an air filter for this year and size seems to be difficult to locate