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Toyota Truck Owners: Problems & Solutions

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  • jaminnjaminn Member Posts: 2
    I was trying to wire my trailer harness, but it wasn't working right. Do I need to do something more than simply wire from the trailer connector to the 7 pin round plug that goes into the socket on the truck? I have a factory installed towing package. It doesn't seem to work right, and I pretty sure the wiring is right. Especially with the truck lights on, the turn signals and brake light is acting screwy.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Member Posts: 311
    If you don't have trailer brakes, you will need to wire the left blinker, right blinker, tail lights and the ground wire. Lack of a ground may work when the trailer is connected, but the lights will be intermittant at best.
  • jaminnjaminn Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. Yes, the more I read it seems that I may have a ground problem. The trailer has been sitting for quite some time, and when I looked at the ground connections they were pretty rusty. I'm going to clean all that up and see if that helps. At least I can eliminate that from the equation.
  • duane6duane6 Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 4door tacoma without trailer wiring and now need to put in wiring. The local hitch place sold me two wiring harnesses to be able to complete the installation. One, to the lights was easy. I'm having trouble finding a stop light wire connection that's easy to make without cutting into the stop light switch. Is there a connector for that purpose? Thanks.
  • ronray43ronray43 Member Posts: 1
    I went through the same thing last summer. The Tacoma uses a 4 wire system, and the trailer probably uses a 5 wire system. Simply go to your local auto parts store and pick up an adapter--has worked great since installation. Should cost less than $10.

    Cheers,
    Ron
  • duane6duane6 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Ron,
    I did go to a hitch place and they gave me a 4 wire harness to hook up to the back lights, and then a two wire harness for power and the brake. The trailer uses a 7 pin connector without using the middle pin. The brake wire connection that was suggested by the hitch place was a splice into the wire which comes from the switch located just behind the brake peddle. I guess after looking at the wiring diagram from the toyota manual there may not be a plug-in under the dash. May have to go with the splice.

    duane
  • tundra_4x4tundra_4x4 Member Posts: 4
    I also have a 2004 tundra, with V8, a mechanic friend of mine said it was due to the oil not staying at the top of the engine. So you are basically getting a dry start, once the oil pumps through the engine, the parts are lubricated and the noise goes away. He had worked on North American vehicles for years, he said its probably the Hydraulic Valve lifters which need to be replaced, because the O-Rings are cracked which allows oil to go back into the pan.
  • tundra_4x4tundra_4x4 Member Posts: 4
    In the 2004 Tundra owner's manual, it states that the battery can run flat IF you keep your headlights in the "ON" position, they turn off when the vehicle turns off, but apparently still draws power.
  • two34two34 Member Posts: 2
    there are fuel injector cleaners available - not the additive for the fuel tank - its a pressurized system that attaches to the fuel rail - the existing fuel line is temporarily blocked so the engine runs on the cleaner only - you might have your local garage do this before investing in a set of new injectors
  • up4milesup4miles Member Posts: 1
    I have began to have trouble starting the engine of my '95 Toyota Tacoma 2WD when the outside air temperature is @ 70 degrees or above. It only seems to happen after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temp and I park, shut it down, and them try to restart it. It turns over fine but just won't start. After I try for several minutes, i smell a strange smell like strong exhaust. It will eventually crank, but not till I've worked at it for 10 min or so. If I allow it to totally cool down or if the air temp is lower it doesn't seem to have a problem. Any suggestions on what it could be or how to fix??
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    F-word? You mean "Fart"? LOL ;)
  • dianeedianee Member Posts: 1
    I had my transmission rebuilt and the mechanic is having trouble getting the gears to shift correctly. It is a '95 Toyota 2 wheel drive extended cab, small (quarter ton) pickup. It is a 4 cylinder engine. Does anyone have the specs for how the transmission should shift? Or know where I can look them up online? It has 3 forward gears and overdrive for the 4th gear. The shift lever is on the steering column. Currently it shifts at 20-25, 40-45, and 65-70 for the overdrive which is not right. The engine rpms are too high before going into third and fourth gears. Any information would be appreciated and ASAP. Many thanks.

    Dianee
  • jrfan2jrfan2 Member Posts: 7
    I have a '04 Tundra DC. My Keyless Entry remote stopped working, I have changed the battery and still no go. Is there a way to reprogram the remote?

    Thanks.
  • 864x4864x4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone thanks in advance for the help!

    As title states, we have an 86 Toyota 4x4 22RE engine.

    Yesterday, as I was driving into the mall parking lot, the truck seemed to start to lose power. (I thought - Oh man! Let me get into a spot! - It did - I love my truck :) Ok sorry, so I left the truck in the spot and waited for bf to get home from work, he went to the truck and it started, but it wants to die right away.

    He also mentioned that when holding clutch, brake and gas (otherwise it dies) at about 2000 rpm he heard an awful clunk in the engine. (It does make this "clunk" sound, and its not pretty...)

    So this morning, I got the truck towed home, and I would like to see if I might be able to solve the issue before the BF gets home.

    The truck starts fine. Will start now, but the second you try to push the gas, it dies. It doesnt seem gas related to me EXCEPT for the fact that I had purchased gas about 5 mins before it broke down. I purchased the same gas we have bought the truck for over 5 yrs, from the same place, so I dont think it will be tainted gas.

    Any help you can offer would be super, I do have some mechanical ability and do understand most parts, so dont be afraid to help me, LOL

    Amanda
  • germany1germany1 Member Posts: 2
    I’m a Soldier currently stationed in German and my 2002 Tundra O2 oxygen sensor just went out right at 75,000 miles. The dealer here does not sale Toyota trucks and they are not aware of any technical bulletins with an extended warrantee. If anyone knows where I can get my hands on this warrantee information I would certainly appreciate your help…..
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    I have that warranty enhancement notice.

    The warranty extension is offered for a period of 7 years or 90000 miles.

    The specific components covered are:

    number 1 oxygen sensor, bank 1 (left side exhaust manifold)
    number 2 oxygen sensor, bank 2 (right side em)

    The diagnostic codes are P0135 and P0155.

    Hope this helps!
  • tundradudetundradude Member Posts: 588
    Toyota Motor Sales USA INc.
    19001 South Western Ave.
    PO Box 2991
    Torrance, CA 90509-2991
  • germany1germany1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks tundradude! How can I get a copy of the mechanical bulletin for my "Deutschland Mechanics?" They are trying to change me 800 euro($1,050) for this job.
  • toyo671toyo671 Member Posts: 2
    the keyless entry remote can be reprogramed, if the remote is working properly. the dealership will be able to reprogram it for a small service fee. i've had it done to my truck.
  • toyo671toyo671 Member Posts: 2
    I have a loud tapping noise coming from the engine(V6), seems to get louder after the engines warms up and heard more at idle. I had the dealership take a look and they said it was coming from the injectors. Sounds to me like they don't know. Anyone else have this problem?
  • billingsleybillingsley Member Posts: 69
    It is possible that as the engine space heats up, the starter body will expand. If this happens, the contacts won't connect. As the starter cools down, it will again make contact. I remember this happening on GM's back in the 60's. Solution? A new starter? Somehow insulating the starter with some kind of a blanket?

    Just some thoughts.
  • greggonzalesgreggonzales Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Took it to a dealer. They guessed it was the valve adjustment. Sounds to me lie an injector or the old style lifters.
    Toyota told me the engine doesn't have "lifters" in the traditional sense.
    Anyway, to make a long story short, they douldn't find anything out of Toyota specs.

    The problem is getting worse, and it makes me feel uneasy.
    I plan to contact Toyota directly, to see if they have any feeback.
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Member Posts: 13
    Mine has the same noise although it's a 4cyl model(2006)with 3500 miles on it. I hear the noise constantly as long as my foot is on the gas pedal. Toyota told me 3 months ago that a fuel-line bracket was causing the noise but never heard from them again as to when the newly designed one is available.
    But when I checked with my local dealer, they told me that this does not apply to the 4cyl models. So, maybe it applies to the 6cyl model like yours.
  • iqbaldhillon2iqbaldhillon2 Member Posts: 116
    I have a 2005 Toyota Tacoma and it has only 30,000 miles,
    but I just bought a new business so my friend says I'll need a bigger truck but I don't want a bigger truck. So he says a campper will do the trick. But the campper will make the truck look odd. Is there another way? :confuse: Please reply back!
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Member Posts: 471
    How does a camper shell make the truck look odd? There are plenty of Tacomas with shells, and they look awesome. Check here. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t98844.html
  • prissy2prissy2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Double Cab that I bought brand new, It has 37,584 miles on it now. It has also a belt and tensioner problem, or so the dealership tells me. Would you happen to know if that is covered by an extended warranty?
  • prissy2prissy2 Member Posts: 2
    I've had similar problems w/my truck but mine is an 05 Tundra. The slightest pebble will make it crack and run...mine has been fixed 3times in 6 months. The dealer that replaced the windshield said that they are made very cheap and thin. I can't say I disagree.
  • sylvia11841sylvia11841 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2005 Toyota Tundra V8 SR5 Access Cab and on a recent trip to Northwest Georgia, driving on Interstate 75 we noticed when approaching a minimal upgrade the vehicle downshifted from overdrive to 3rd gear and sometimes second gear. It completely bypasses fourth gear and by doing so causes the vehicle to accelerate accompanied by a loud engine noise. Has anyone experienced a similar situation? We were told by our delearship the problem cannot be fixed.
  • dbiggsdbiggs Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same issues with my 1999 Toyota Tacoma SR5, 5 speed manual.
    First time, will not crank, then on second try it will.
    What was the outcome to your prerunner "ekartanowicz"? Any info is much appreciated!!

    Also, yesterday, it did turn over on the first time but it felt like the starter would not stop cranking. The engine was running fine but there was a whinning noise.
    I turned the truck off, took the key out, and it was still trying to turn over. The truck began to shake. After about 10 seconds of this, it stopped, I restarted and eveyrthing has been fine since.... :sick:
  • 2001tacoma4x42001tacoma4x4 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Tacoma double cab 4X4. I'm the original owner and have done all the scheduled maintenances.

    A couple weeks ago the check engine light came "ON" I was low on gas, so I was thinking maybe the pressure was low and filled the tank. I did some research on the web and read that sometimes a computer needed to be reset...so I pulled the EFI fuse and put it back...BTW what's the EFI?...the check engine light turned "OFF" after I started driving. A week later, I went on a business trip and left my car idle in a parking garage. And today the check engine light came back "ON"

    Any ideas?
  • 2001tacoma4x42001tacoma4x4 Member Posts: 3
    After I typed this message, the check light turned off. This is the 2nd time the light has turned "ON" and then went "OFF"
  • rustywtworustywtwo Member Posts: 1
    My experience...Poor grade of fuel. DON'T BUY ARCO GAS. Get some high octane in there & the light will go out. If the tank is full of suspected poor grade fuel, add 1 gallon (ONLY 1 gallon) of diesel. This will clean out the garbage & also do a great job of cleaning your injectors. (Can do NO harm) Your engine light will be off almost immediately. Of course, you'll still probably find some smut in your fuel filter on the next change.
  • psfponiespsfponies Member Posts: 2
    I am having a problem with the check engine light coming on when the gas tank is at a half tank or less. This has happened three times the bizarre part is it is at the same exact spot all three times! The first time it came on I unscrewed the gas and retighted it and it went off. A few weeks later at the same spot at a half tank it came on again. I figured that the gas cap was bad and got a new one. I filled the tank and put the new cap on and presto it went off but when the tank got to a half tank again at the same spot it came on again. I was thinking it had something to do with the fact that I live in a higher elevation and when I got down to a lower elevation it was causing a pressure problem in the tank. I am going to try to fill the tank again today and see if it goes out. Any other suggestion???
  • psfponiespsfponies Member Posts: 2
    Well I went and put gas in and the light went out! So I will see if it comes back on when it gets to half a tank. Is there a senser or something that might need to be changed or reset :) ?
  • scotts0709scotts0709 Member Posts: 1
    have your truck get a check engine light diagnosis (autozone does them for free) my suspicion is that it may be an O2 sensor. My 99 does the same thing and one quick way is to disconnect and reconnect the battery terminals. This will reset the light.
  • apbstyleapbstyle Member Posts: 3
    I have an 01' Tundra with 65k. My tundra makes a loud clunk noise which is definately coming from the trans. It happens when I'm going maybe 50-60 mph when I let off the gas only, not when accelerating. When the problem first started it would shift in to fifth gear, well overdrive. Now when I'm driving at 60mph my rpms are at 2K, I know that's not right.
    I turned the o/d button off and it would stay in 3rd, but when I turn it back on, it does shift into 4th, but that's it. Doesn't trans have 5th gear? I think my problems are in the overdrive gears. Has anyone had or is having these similar problems? Please let me know. Thanks.
  • woodersonwooderson Member Posts: 1
    Neither of my brake lights work. The fuse is good, and the bulbs are good, what could this be?!

    The high-mount brake light DOES work, so it doesn't appear to be the pedal switch.

    This is a 2000 SR5 Double Cab Tundra 2WD V8 with 90k miles. I'm the original owner, I've never had any other problems, there have been absolutely no modifications to the truck, everything is stock. It has never been in an accident, I've never towed a trailer, nothing like this at all. The wiring harnesses at the tail light assembly all look fine.

    Any suggestions appreciated. Should I take this to the corner shop?
  • cjs123cjs123 Member Posts: 1
    Trying to keep costs down; considering a 1999 Tacoma Prerunner, has around 145,500 miles on it. I hear how Toyotas can easily last 200,000, but don't want to buy a car that only has around 55,000 miles left before it starts falling apart. How long can these trucks last?
  • jmabbott1948jmabbott1948 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999, 2 wheel drive, manual transmission, extended cab Tacoma with 112,000 miles. I recently had all 3 u-joints replaced as well as the support bearing. Immediately after the work was done, I noticed a slight vibration in the steering wheel while driving between about 20 and 30 mph. The other day, I noticed a vibration sound coming from under the truck that seems to be at about the same frequency as the vibration. The sound and vibration occur between 28 and 40 mph. At all other speeds it runs smooth as silk. Now it gets real interesting: If there's a passenger in the truck with me or if I am carrying something over about 100 pounds either behind the front seats or in the bed, the sound and vibration go away! This of course makes it very diffcult for the mechanic to determine what's going on since when I ride with him, nothing happens and when he drives it alone, nothing happens either because he weighs about 100 pounds more than me! Also, the frequency of the vibration/sound doesn't seem to change as the speed varies from 28 to 40 mph and it's there whether or not the clutch is engaged. Revving the engine with the truck parked doesn't result in the sound or vibration. After not being able to hear of feel anything during the test drives, the mechanic gave everything a thorough going-over on the lift (I watched) and could find nothing....everything seems "solid as a rock". Any suggestions?
  • 1badtundra1badtundra Member Posts: 1
    Just a note to see if anyone is having problems with their 2005 Tundra Double Cabs with automatic transmission.

    I currently own one, purchased in January after 3000 miles the transmission needed replacing (vibration at 35 mph). I didn't ask many questions. On my ride home the repaired transmission would not shift properly and often dropping from 4th gear to 1st. I quickly returned to the dealer and after running a diagnostic I was told the computer needed to be reflashed and it seemed to solve any problems.

    Now 4000 miles later and another crazy ride of the transmission not shifting out of 1st gear I was told by the dealer I needed a new transmission again. This time the service rep after much questioning stated that Toyota is having quality problems with some internal parts.

    All of the work has been done by a Toyota dealer under warranty but I'm thinking this is a bigger problem. Toyota promotes quality and long lasting trucks but I'm having a hard time believing this. :sick:

    1badtundra
  • tundra2411tundra2411 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Tundra DC AWD. I have experienced similar problems. My will downshift going up or down hill. When it first started it would shift at 3800 rpms or if I applied the brakes slowed to 35 mph and accelerated again. Now when it does this I must pul off road and stop and turn off engine. Since this only happens after driving freeway speeds for over 1 hour, the dealer says they have no way of duplicating problem. Transmission test is normal. This truck can not haul or tow as much as my old 2002 Chevy 1/2 ton. Toyota claims in commercials it can. Dealer will not address this problem, only saying a Toyota is different than a truck from a US manufacturer.

    This is the most disappointing truck I have ever owned. I have owned trucks for over 40 years. It is SUV in truck body.
  • prerunnerprerunner Member Posts: 1
    just got my truck this week. I am making a punch list of little things for when i go back to dealer next week. wanted to see if any one eles experienced the same things. so when i go back i can be at least some what familiar as to the problem solutions etc.. here is the one i am concerned the most with. When i put the truck in reverse and with light pressure on the brake peddle, the transmission or possibly the brake makes a grinding or rattling noise.
  • tictacttictact Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a solution to this problem? I went to inspection today, and all of a sudden all I have is the top brake light. Any info would be appreciated.

    Tim
  • hprjrhprjr Member Posts: 24
    I own a 2001 Tundra and when I have the ac or heater working, I hear a clicking noise coming from the blower motor area like the blades are hitting a little debris as it is spinning. Has anyone experienced this problem? Thanks for your help.
  • newbadtundranewbadtundra Member Posts: 1
    New '06 Tundra with less than 400 miles (this is not a typo only four hundred miles!) is already having transmission problems. It doesn't have reverse and will not go into 3rd gear. The overdrive is engaged. Any like stories? :mad:
  • wjfosswjfoss Member Posts: 3
    Rob,
    I took my truck to the dealership a month after I posted my original message. They claim the belt was stretched and replaced it. Free of charge, I might add.
    So far so good. Hope this helps.
  • wjfosswjfoss Member Posts: 3
    I took my truck to the dealership a month after I posted my original message. They claim the belt was stretched and replaced it. Free of charge, I might add.
    So far so good. Hope this helps.
  • woofwoof Member Posts: 27
    From what I've been reading, it seems that Toyota has problems with some of the automatic transmissions. I'm not pleased with my '06 Tacoma's 5-speed automatic transmission. Seems that it is slow to react and often doesn't know what gear it should be in. This hurts performance and gas mileage, not to mention frustrating the driver. Yet, others have had much worse problems with vibration, etc. See www.tundrasolutions.com. I spoke with my dealer who told me that Toyota does not currently have new software for mine, but noted that other models have new improved software available. Frankly, it amazes me that Toyota can't seem to make a good automatic transmission. If anything, my "old" 2005 Silverado had a superb automatic transmission and a strong V8 that got nearly as good MPG as my V6 Tacoma weighing 1000 lbs. less. This is my third Toyota Truck and I generally am pleased. But it may be my last.
  • john11017john11017 Member Posts: 1
    Hey prerunner:

    I just bought a 2007 prerunner and I have the same noise problem in reverse. Did you ever get a solution?

    John11017@yahoo.com

    Thanks,

    John
  • barmou5812barmou5812 Member Posts: 2
    The new 05 or newer tacoma front suspension knuckles are so close to the tire sidewall it prevents snow chains of any type from being used on the front tires. This was not a limitation on my 95 & 98 tacoma. The distance is appx half inch or less. This is a huge limitation for backcountry off roaders in snow and mud and for hunters. It could be dangerous also if front tire pressure are lower for off roading and the flex of sidewall could cut tire against suspension knuckle. This was a huge oversite by the design team at Toyota. I filed a complaint in Fall 2006 when some local 4X4 shops mentioned the complaint from some new tacoma owners and not sure if they tried to fix it yet.
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