What Car is Right For Me? Help Me Choose!

kyfdx · April 2012

I also like the IS300... but, it is notoriously fuel-inefficient..

I think it is rated at 18/23 mpg...

They were really nice cars around 2002...

plekto · April 2012

2005 was the last year for it, and it's not perfect. BUT, they did make a wagon version of it, which takes care of the rear headroom issue. The deal about this generation Toyota, though, is that it will last to 15 years or so without major issues. And honestly, the kids can DEAL with the rear seat. All rear seats suck unless you're buying something like a Buick or other huge car.

A VW or BMW or Mercedes, while incredible to drive, will bankrupt your child when it comes to driving it at college. Going on 8-10 years old, it'll be right at that OMG what broke this week stage.

But my real suggestion is to gt what you want. And get another car at the time. The perfect car would be a used Honda Fit or something that can carry cargo and is dirt cheap to drive while in school. Or even something older like a Tacoma pickup. Let it get beat up, dented, and used. And hardly pay a dime to keep it running. Then sell it and let them get their own vehicle.

lisaliz · April 2012

Thanks, the IS300 is a really interesting suggestion. What about the issue of a seven year old AC? I was under the impression that the AC system was one of those things that decline with age.

backy · April 2012

All rear seats suck unless you're buying something like a Buick or other huge car.

Hardly. For example, check out these current small cars for back seat room and comfort:

Elantra (sedan and Touring)
Impreza
Jetta
Prius
Versa

And some modern Buicks, like the Verano and Regal, don't have all that roomy back seats.

plekto · April 2012

Yes, any several year old AC will likely need to have parts replaced or attended to at the least. But you can factor that into the price of the vehicle when you buy it. Then it should be good for several years.

The cars are good for 250-300K, so getting one that has 40-60K on it is really not an issue at all. Just beware that a lot of them were abused or driven hard, so look for signs of heavy wear, non-factory parts or mods (or repairs) and go on to the next one.

Kirstie_H · April 2012

We have a 1998 vehicle that blows air so cold that I can't stand it, and that's in Missouri where we see 100+ degree days in the summer. We did recently have to have it serviced - something was leaking. $100 later, and it's back to ice cold. Yes, you might have to have the A/C checked out, but unless it's the compressor, it's probably not an expensive fix.

dispencer2 · April 2012

If you are thinking about buying a 2011 or 12 Malibu buy the six. I have a 2011 with the 4 and normally drive to Dallas on 4 lane highways. I took the car to Albuquerque on two lane roads and had to pass several trucks. The car doesn't always downshift when floored and it is woefully underpowered for passing at 50-70. If I had made the trip before I had bought it I would have never purchased it with a four. My Cobalt has more passing power with the 4 speed automatic. The gas mileage is not anything to write home about - 29-33 mostly on the road. My 03 Cadillac DeVille made 30-31. Other than the lack of power for passing the Malibu is fine. Rides ok, needs more insulation from road noise but for the price is fine. If I had to do it over again I would have bought a used Buick Lucerne or LaCrosse but I'll go back to a Cadillac in the next few years.

stever · June 2012

Are you an active duty member of the U.S. military in the process of shopping for a new or used car? A news reporter is interested in talking with you. Please contact pr@edmunds.com by June 30, 2012.

kdshapiro · June 2012

Actually I think you have to own a hybrid for 10 years to break even.

newcargirl5000 · July 2012

newcargirl5000 · July 2012

I'm a first time car buyer (previously drove a car I inherited for 10 years til it died.) I'm new to this forum and wanted people's opinions (and realize car ownership can be VERY subjective.) I'm hoping to hold on the car for a long time (I just drive for pleasure and usually only do about 3000 miles a year, but most of it is on highways.) Am looking to spend roughly $20,000.
I'm considering 3 cars (all with automatic transmission):
1) Subaru Impreza hatchback
2)the new Hyundai Elantra GT
3) Volkswagen Golf (4 door)
Am planning to buy in the spring, but am just starting my research and am planning on doing test drives for all three--and, if possible, renting them to really check them out.
Aside from the obvious pluses for each (AWD for the Subaru, great warranty for the Hyundai) I'd love opinions from folks as to which car (out of the 3) they prefer and why.
Many thanks in advance!

qbrozen · July 2012

considering your buying/owning habits, I think the 10 year warranty on the hyundai would serve you well, so that would be my suggestion.

backy · July 2012

First, unless you get much snow, I'd move the Impreza lower on your list as it will cost more and exacts a bit of an mpg penalty for AWD. But I think it's a very nice car... I live in Minnesota though.

I think the Elantra GT is very nice also, but for $20k you'll be looking at a base model with AT and that's it. Doesn't look like Hyundai plans to ship many of these over here, so prices will probably stay up even next spring. BTW, similar problem with availability on the Impreza... hard to find any selection in stock.

Re the Golf... keep in mind the Golf VII will be here sometime next year, so if you buy a Golf VI in the spring, it will be a generation old overnight. So you could wait for the Golf VII, which is supposed to have a turbo engine standard and better FE, or... you could get a slightly used, VW Certified Golf VI. You could get a very nice one including an extended warranty for $20k.

Based on your looking at these cars, two others I think are worth a look for you are the Mazda3i Touring hatch (Skyactiv), which is a blast to drive, and the Focus hatch, also fun to drive albeit I'd stay away from the auto on that one, but reportedly Ford has worked out the kinks on it, or most of them at least.

newcargirl5000 · July 2012

Thanks for the replies! And backy, thanks so much for such an in-depth one! Great points. I live in NYC and nearly never drive in snow so I will cross the Impreza off my list. Re: the Hyundai, I'm actually fine with the base model with AT. But I will also check out the Mazda 3i touring Hatch (I have heard really good things about that as well!) And great points re: the Golf VI & upcoming VII. Thanks again. A lot of food for thought!

qbrozen · July 2012

considering how long you plan to keep it, I certainly wouldn't worry about what is around the corner in terms of redesigns.

backy · July 2012

Why not? If a redesign will get much better fuel economy than the old design, for example, that is a big benefit for long-term ownership. That is certainly the case for the current crop of compacts--the latest redesigns tend to get much better FE than the old ones, and sometimes with more power to boot. There's also the safety factor--the newer the design, the more active and passive safety features tend to be included. For example, the latest Elantra design, the GT, has 7 airbags, and the current gen entire Elantra line has ESC standard--that was not the case with the prior design.

bhmr59 · July 2012

3,000 miles per year indicates that MPG shouldn't be a high priority. As long as the MPG is reasonable, a difference of a few MPG shouldn' be a concern.

backy · July 2012

Nor safety either I suppose?

3k miles a year for 10 years is 30k miles. At 25 mpg, that's 1200 gallons. At 30 mpg, it's only 1000 gallons. At $4 a gallon (very optimistic for a 10-year average I think), that's $800 in my pocket if I go with a newer design with better fuel economy. All else being equal, I'd take the $800.

qbrozen · July 2012

And you may pay $800 or more for the newer model year.

Even if you didn't ... for $80/year or less than $7/mo, I wouldn't be concerned.

But, hey, if the OP can afford to wait, all the better.

morin2 · July 2012

You are in an area known for high auto insurance rates, so I suggest you run a few models past your independent insurance agent. It is likely that one model could save you more in insurance cost than in fuel economy, considering that you estimate a low 3K per year (what I drive in 6 weeks).

I would not eliminate the Impreza so quickly. The AWD has advantages in rain and you never know when the weather will change if you travel. Also the flat 4 cylinder engine design has a lower center of gravity. My subarus have had low insurance costs relative to some other cars in my fleet. In contrast, Hyundais often have high insurance costs.

The only current generation Golf I would consider would be a TDI, but that's 20-25% over your budget.

I second the suggestion to look at a Mazda 3i SkyActive. In fact, that should probably be near the top of your list.

backy · July 2012

And you may pay $800 or more for the newer model year.

Which is why I said "all else being equal."

Sure, if you have to pay more for the later design and its advantages aren't worth the extra money, get the old design. Even get a used car, as I suggested. For 3k miles a year, it really doesn't make sense to buy a new car. Let someone else take the big up-front depreciation. The only reason to buy new in that case is... to get the latest design.

newcargirl5000 · July 2012

Thanks for all the feedback, you guys! A lot of food for thought. I actually priced the insurance for the models I'm thinking about and they're not tha high. I definitely will also look at the mazda3. After doing rental cars for the past few weeks I also realizing how important doing the test drives are. I'm noticing a lot of the newer cars have less visibility (I was used to a large back window vs some of the much smaller ones on newer models) A lot of food for thought all around!

maxx4me · July 2012

Yep, I totally agree with you newcargirl regarding the visibility issue. No matter how experienced a driver we may be, having B and C pillars in the way, coupled with short height windows challenge the aging driver and are not good for new drivers. That is why I am honing in on the Honda Fit and will wait to see what the redesigned Versa looks like. Good visibility is as important to me as good brakes.

morin2 · July 2012

I agree about the visibility. There are some moves - such as merging to the right into the fast lane from a left hand entrance ramp, that can be white-knuckle experiences in some vehicles. I always enjoyed the visibility of my subarus with their large "old-fashioned" rear windows. But when my beloved 09 Outback was totalled when a young driver slammed into me at 60-65 mph while I was stopped at a red light, I found a less expensive (smaller) model with visibility as good or better - a Suzuki SX-4. Not only is the visibility good when glancing over the shoulder, but the mirrors seem to be a perfect shape. And best of all, the car is a bargain. Last time I looked, www.fitzmall.com showed a new 2012 equipped like my 2011 for as low as15.2K with 0% for 72 months (an auto trans + a few options and you'd still be under 17K). (disclaimer - I am not connected to fitzmall except as a very satisfied repeat customer).

plekto · July 2012

You really need to get a CPO or slightly used car. The economy is tight, and it's simply bad economics to not let someone else eat the initial 40-50% depreciation.

To make the point, for $20K, you can get a 3-4 year old Cadillac CTS. Or a 3-4 year old C class. Let alone a used Accord for $15K, or my favorite, older GM cars for 12K. Sometimes two years old.

You drive so little that you really should get a larger mid to full size upper-end car if you can. After all, a used Camry is always going to be a better car than a brand new Yaris. Not only in safety and features, but also reliability, as everything is just built better. CPO is of course, preferred, as you get a warranty and some peace of mind.

If you absolutely have to have a new car, there is one that is a great deal, is $20K , and gets great MPG. The new Ford Mustang. It drives great, gets 30mpg highway, and with year-end incentives (wait 8-9 weeks), 20K for a base model is quite easy to accomplish.

Note - I went to Cars Direct and selected:
- 2013, a normal color (dark blue looks great)
- the option package with the fog lights, poser seats, and tech upgrades
- limited slip diff.
(did not select the 19" tires as it just makes the car ride like a rock)
$23,837 including a $795 delivery charge. By the end of the year, $20K will easily be possible with some haggling.

newcargirl5000 · July 2012

Thanks for all the tips, you guys! And plekto, I actually don't like sedans. I want a hatchback. CPOs for the hatch's I'm looking at aren't super low/worth having less time on the warranty.

I actually had a long conversation last night with my cousin who's owned a Subaru for 16 years and it's still going strong. She was raving about it (as did my neighbor who has the Impreza.) The Impreza is starting to look like a front-runner for me (love the idea of AWD--while I don't drive in the snow that often, things might change in a few years--I have a small cottage in the woods and it's completely inaccessible in the winter without either AWD or 4WD.) Can't wait to start test-driving!

backy · July 2012

Another plus on the Impreza is that visibility is good compared to several other cars in this class.

natedouglas34 · August 2012

I'm looking at getting a either a 2006 GS 300 or 2007 or 2008 IS 250 Nav., both CPO. Which car is going to hold it's value better, cheaper to maintain down the road, and will have less mechanical problems after 100,000 miles? Thanks, having a hard time deciding!

mr_gone · August 2012

Hard to predict cost of ownership differences between the two, given that they're both Lexus products and fairly similar in underlying mechanics. The IS is essentially a trimmed-down GS. I'd dig pretty deep through consumer discussions on these two vehicles and see if there's anything that influences your decision one way or the other. A quick look on Edmunds shows a lot of unhappy IS owners in recent reports compared to GS owners, but that make be a fluke.

Seems to me that the IS is kind of a fake BMW 3-series, in that it doesn't have much of a sporty character despite its packaging. In the long run, I would guess that would hurt its resale value more than the GS, which doesn't pretend to be anything but a luxury car.

natedouglas34 · August 2012

Thanks, anyone else have knowledge on this issue? I like that the GS is bigger, but the 2006 would have less tech than the 2007/2008 IS with nav.

plekto · August 2012

I'd actually look at other cars, because if you are looking at something used, you'll be wanting to find something that suffers as much depreciation as possible so that the first owner eats most of the car' value. It's a bit mercenary to view it this way, but it's just how it works in finance.

Lexus depreciates too slowly at first - mostly driven by dealer greed. But once they get to about 6-7 years old, the value drops sharply.(CPO isn't an option that old, so everything is priced off of base/auction price, pretty much)

I'd personally recommend something from Mercedes if you want luxury, or something like a 2008 CTS. You can get a better quality car a couple of years newer for about the same money. Also, the Cadillac is significantly more sporty than the Lexus, and better equipped as well. (it should be, considering what it originally cost).

kingtyger · August 2012

I am looking for a used car from the years 1987 to 2002, My price range is from 1,000 to 3,000, I like 2 Door cars that look sporty, my favorite cars in these category are Integra, Paseo, Sunbird, but my favorite car of all time is Eclipse 1990(found one at a decent price of 2,000, you guys/gals think it's a decent price? The only bad part is the paint is a bit faded but that can be fix later on I suppose), So if you could recommend me any cars in that price range and as cool looking and sounding of the Eclipse 1990(also, it has to be automatic and fuel respectable), please let me know, thanks

:confuse:

Also on a side note, let it be clear, I don't know anything about cars, I just like a few, drove a few and the few I drove I loved, so if it ain't to much trouble, it be nice if you could tell me if the Eclipse '90 decent enough to maintain, I know its not new so it will have its trouble shots. Thanks again.

mr_gone · August 2012

Danger! Danger! The combination of not knowing anything about cars and trying to find one priced between $1,000 and $3,000 is one that can lead to some serious regret later on. The Eclipse may be fine, but it may need a lot more than paint -- and you can't tell unless you've had a mechanic do a thorough inspection. So if you pay $2,000 and face $3,000 in repairs, you're suddenly way beyond your budget. The Integra and Paseo I would guess to be more reliable than the Sunbird or Eclipse, but none of these are guaranteed to be anything close to trouble-free when they're all obviously old and at the end of their lives.

More important than the car is the seller in your case. If you can find someone who is honest and straightforward and can give you a good idea of what might need fixing soon and what has been replaced, buy it. Otherwise, keep looking. Probably a private seller who is a friend or family member is your best bet. Good luck!

mr_gone · August 2012

The new Impreza is much improved for fuel economy vs the old ones. So I'd eliminate that as a reason to skip it.

Surprised no one has mentioned the Honda Fit? You can get a very nice one for your price and have both a fun car and one with a lot of carrying capacity thanks to the clever way its seats fold down in the back.

plekto · August 2012

You're basically going to be looking at big boats. IE - a Buick LeSabre/Park Avenue or a Crown Vic. Find something that was NOT used for a fleet or rental and you should be fine. $3K should get you something that is fairly reliable.

Anything else will be a complete money pit or be a total DIY project.

kingtyger · August 2012

I understand that, that is why i am taking my uncle, he is a great mechanic, he will go with me, turn on the car, test drive, check the engine, i am a smart shopper i think, If i see its just a young punk, i know the car has been through hell, that is why, when i look for old cars, I try to make sure the seller, is honest and a age adequate to the car, I also like the Mirage from 95 to 2000, but mostly they are own by young kids wanting to BRROOOM BRROOM all day and sell the car cause they broke it enough hahaha, But can you recommend any other car? Like I said, aslong as it as the look of a Integra, RX7 or Eclipse(1990), I will try it, i've loved those box design cause they look good and respectable

plekto · August 2012

The problem with those cars is that they age very poorly. The RX7 is a nightmare to maintain once it gets past 10 years old or so (which they all are approaching *twice* that age), the Integra of that age is basically a fancy Civic, and overpriced versus, say, a used newer Civic, Mirages in that price range are all generally falling apart or close to it (good cars but poor interiors as a rule), and an Eclipse that old is... you might as well just buy a used 280ZX and fix it up.

What you want is something that is seen as a old person's car, depreciates like a rock, and is built to actually still be running in the 15 year old range or so. Like I said, this means something either so simple you can work onit yourself, or something that was overbuilt and is a big tank. You can actually get perfectly good working 2002 Crown Vics for $3K. You can get a ~2000 Buick LeSabre for about that price. It'll likely have been owned by an elderly person who didn't abuse it. Note - my mom's 2000 LeSabre will go 80mph quite easily - it's deceptively quick. 27mpg highway is also a nice bonus.

If you want sporty and old, here are a few to consider:
- 1993 Volvo 240. This was the last year and they are extremely reliable and simple to keep running. They handle quite well for their age. Also consider a 940, which is a 240 with a better exterior and fancier options. Get with manual.

- 4 cylinder Toyota Rav4/Tacoma/4Runner with manual. This is indestructible and works. Volvos and Toyotas are well known to last 300K+ miles. Avoid 6 cylinder models. Avoid automatics.

- BMW 318Ti. This is a specific BMW that is cheap to run and actually is quite reliable. Because it's a hatchback, it was panned by Americans (much like the Mercedes C230K hatchback was). This means very low prices. Upkeep is more than the other options, but it's worth it in the end. Manual, naturally. Drives like, well, a BMW.

On manuals - manuals make you a better, more in-tune driver, and they cost a few *hundred* to put a new clutch in.(or $150 if you DIY) Automatics on ancient cars run $1500-$2000, typically. GM's big cars (Buick and Cadillac) and the Crown Vic are notable overbuilt automatics that I'd recommend 10 years old. BMW, Mercedes, and Volvo were almost entirely sold with manuals in Europe. It's the only way to but a European car, IMO. As little to break as humanly possible, and a manual gearbox.

Other than that, get a classic car for $2500 and work on restoring it. If you get something with carbs and pre-smog, as well as pre-computers, you can actually keep it running for a very long time with elbow grease. Your uncle will likely like this option, actually, as he can help you fix things quite easily compared to modern 15-20 year old cars which are usually a mess of crumbling wiring and aging computers and sensors.

But my first choice of all of those above? Get a used 4Runner. You can save a lot, btw, if the thing has a few places with rock rash and dings, which a lot of them have. 4WD, of course. Look for a Marlin Crawler transmission and/or transfer case if it has one fitted to it.

newcargirl5000 · August 2012

Hi All,

I had written about a month ago asking opinions on buying a new car.

Well, I've narrowed it down to two choices now:
1) The Subaru Impreza 5 door Premium
2) VW Gold 5 door base model with Convenience package (which adds bluetooth, etc.)
I've been renting a bunch of cars (sadly neither one of those models yet) and have realized a couple of things. My old car had a v6 engine and while the hp was 134, the torque was 180. I've been finding that I'm not crazy about cars with lower hp/power. Also, my old car had pretty tight steering, which I prefer. That puts a bit of an edge on the Golf for me. So before I head off to test drive these my main questions are:
Which car is more expensive to maintain after the warranty? Which car lasts longer all things being equal? (I take REALLY good car of my cars, keep them garaged, keep up with maintenance and do about 3000 miles a year.)
Thanks again all.

backy · August 2012

Given you drive 3k miles a year and you take REALLY good care of your cars, keep them garaged etc., I don't think you need to worry about longevity in either of these cars.

One thing to consider is re the CVT on the Impreza, if you are going that route. I am not 100% sold yet on CVT reliability, although I drive a car with a CVT today (2010 Sentra)--but it has a 10 year, 120k mile warranty on the CVT.

If I were deciding between these two cars (and they are both on my shopping list for next year, albeit I hope the Golf VII is out by then), I'd definitely go with the stick on the Golf. It's a great shifter, has a tall 5th gear for low revs on the highway (less noise, better FE), and will likely hold up better in the long run than the automatic. And it's more fun.

For the Impreza, I would tend to go with the CVT based on driving both the 5-speed and CVT and finding the CVT to be much quieter, lower revving, and having better FE.

And of course the Golf has much more torque than the Impreza--also likely lower FE, esp. compared to the CVT Impreza. But considering you drive 250 miles a month, the difference in FE on these two cars is moot.

maxx4me · August 2012

it appears as though Nissan is sticking with the CVT. I drove a Versa hatchback the other day and was blown away by the CVT. I can't wait to buy a used one. As for the aforementioned two choices, I would go for the Impreza. For me, I would never, ever buy anything built in or containing parts from Europe.

backy · August 2012

Yeah, we all know how much those Bimmers and Benzes suck! Who'd want to drive one of those piles of crap! We'd all rather drive a Renault-inspired econobox that starts falling apart after a couple of years. :P

Actually the Golf (and Rabbit before it) has an excellent predicted reliability record, per CR. The Impreza is a new design, but earlier Imprezas had an excellent record. Significant difference there? I don't see it.

plekto · August 2012

The trick with BMW and Mercedes is to only get manual and to get specific base models with no options (like sunroofs and nav systems) to break. Volvo is kind of the same as well. Keep it simple and it's fine.

The issue is that you can hardly get the base trim and manual any more in most European brands. VW is one of them, though, and they are fine if you get a basic car with the basic engine.

But for a first time buyer, sporty and fun and all the things a young driver lusts after are not going to happen for $3K. Not unless you go into a classic car and start restoring it.

backy · August 2012

No... but that is a different thread. This thread is re choosing between a new Golf and a new Impreza.

plekto · August 2012

Between the Golf and the Impreza, go with the Impreza if you want reliability. The Golf is a nice car and all, but Subaru makes a better vehicle. There are also a TON of aftermarket mods and upgrades for the Subaru as well.

backy · August 2012

As if there aren't a ton of aftermarket mods/upgrades for the Golf???

newcargirl5000 · August 2012

Thanks, Backy. I actually spoke with my mechanic this morning and he suggested the Subaru (based on repair costs--he said the Golf is super-expensive to repair and the Subaru is more reliable.) But, given that, I'm now starting to look at one of your original recommendations--the Mazda3 hatch. I was originally concerned about the Mazda's visibility, but think I'll take it for a spin to see. Only reason I'm not 100% sold on the Subaru is the hp/torque. I do most of my driving on the highway and then hills. I've found a lot of the rentals I've been trying really struggle on hills if they have lower hp/torque. I guess I just have to test drive the Subie (luckily, there's a rental car place around here that has the Golf & Mazda--and they rent by the hour--so I can try those on hills & highway.) BTW--I don't drive a stick, so have to stick with an automatic.
I

backy · August 2012

VWs might be expensive to repair, but consider... how many repairs will a Golf that is driven 30k miles in 10 years and is maintained exceptionally well need? Not many I'd wager.

For your driving habits, I strongly recommend you get the car you like driving best, first and foremost. All other factors, including FE and reliability, are of lesser importance for the few miles you drive. That being said, I think you'll like how the Mazda3 drives.

igozoomzoom · August 2012

I hate CVTs with a passion and the Impreza is no exception! I also drove one with manual and I liked it much better. But the Golf 5-door is better in the areas that are most important to me!

The Golf has significantly more hp and torque and it is obvious, especially under light to modereate throttle. The Golf's standard 6AT is one of the best I've sampled in a while. It is usually in the gear that it needs to be in and doesn't balk at part-throttle kick-downs for instant power when you need it.

The inteiror materials look and feel very high quality and they are assembled perfectly. They would not look out of place in an Audi A3.

The car feels as solid as a bank vault on the road. It feels like it will stay tight for many miles into the future.

The only issue I have with the Golf is that it comes with 15" steel wheels and fugly plastic wheel covers! But that can corrected in a few ways- VW will sell you a slick set of 17" wheels for $1500 or so. Or you can go aftermarket and spend well under $1k, but still change the whole look of the car!

One more quick detail about the Golf- it is available in six colors, most of them are nothing special but one really stood out and looked awesome- Blue Graphite! With a sharp set of silver alloys, it would look more like a $30k car.

Final note- I'm being totally serious- this is the first time I've recommened a VW in over 10 years on this and other auto sites. I would normally give the top nod to the Mazda3, but it's not quite as special as it used to be....btw, the Golf has very good reliability ratings on CR!

plekto · August 2012

Well, you obviously get a manual with either of these cars.

Another car to consider would be the Subaru BRZ/Scion FR-S (joint venture between the two companies) I like the FR-S a bit better as it has a much lower actual/street price and is a little quicker with the manual. But 25K might be out of your budget.

Lastly, there is my personal budget economy car. But you're going to probably think I'm joking...

Wait a month. Get a 2012 Mustang with the V6 engine. It gets 30mpg (real world) highway and has no issues at all with power. The insane part of it is the price - $20K. And that's now. Not in a month when they add another 2K in incentives, most likely, you'll be able to haggle 18K for a base model. The upgraded looks of the 2013 are better, but they also make the 2012 less desirable. In a month, dealers will be begging you to take one, especially if it's manual.

The price of it has hardly changed while the imports are charging huge amounts for their economy cars. You can hit 25K on a Golf without blinking.
(all manual here - there's ZERO reason to buy automatics that make it slower than a slug) 0-60 in 10+ seconds (real-world driving without dropping it into gear at full throttle) isn't sporty or fun. Having to flog it to get up a mountain pass isn't either. I remember trying to get onto a freeway uphill with a little 4 cylinder with the power to weight ratio of the Impreza and I almost wet myself every time I tried to do it. 60mph uphill was closer to 20 seconds due to there being so little torque for the huge weight (these all weigh way over 3000lbs). Add a passenger and you pretty much were looking for a 200ft+ gap.

VW Golf 23/33 (26 combined) 170HP/177 Torque
Mustang V6 19/29 (23 combined) 305 HP/280 Torque (0-60 5.8)
Mazda 3 20/28 (23 combined) 150 HP/134 Torque
Impreza 25/34 (28 combined) 148 HP/145 Torque
BRZ/FR-S 22/30 (25 combined) ~200 HP/~150 Torque

To me, the Mustang stands out as a fun, fast, and inexpensive option. And it looks great as well. You can also somewhat stomach the automatic, IMO, if you have to, as it has more than enough power to deal with the losses and lag. Fords are also cheap to repair.

igozoomzoom · August 2012

"Well, you obviously get a manual with either of these cars."

The 2012 VW Golf 2.5L 4-door is only available with a 6-speed automatic transmission, manual not available. The 2-door 2.5L has a standard 5MT and the 6AT is optional. The only 4-door Golf with a manual is the TDI with a standard 6MT.

I was surprised that to see that the 2012 Impreza only has a 5-speed manual when almost every competitor offers a 6-speed manual instead. I would think that extra ratio would be very useful in offsetting the new car's less powerful 2.0L engine, but I guess the 5MT won't run off the Subaru faithful.

What Car is Right For Me? Help Me Choose!

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles