Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

What Car is Right For Me? Help Me Choose!

1676870727384

Comments

  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Lower than the sticker price, which is their opening bid.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    Okay. So then, if I'm to offer a few hundred below the sticker price, it seems there is no reasonable way to get to between $5,000 and $6,000 which was the suggested retail for that car depending on condition.

    What then would be the price I should be aiming for, $6,500ish?
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    edited August 2013
    So my research shows that the price he is asking is fair in comparison to the price other dealers are selling for. What I don't know is, and I know there is no "across the board" method for determining how much markup is built into that price, how much I should be buying this car for.

    It appears that the trade in value the dealer would have paid (according to KBB NADA EDMUNDS) would have been roughly in the $3,500 range. I don't know how auction prices compare to those, but if it is the case that they have marked the vehicle up that much, then I want to make sure I let them profit off of me as little as possible (not to be construed as "I'd like to steal it", but simply that I don't want to be foolish). I don't know much about the used car market, but I think I know people fairly well, and I doubt that a 02 Corolla w 100k miles for $6,995 is going to be hard to sell. That being the case, I don't imagine that I have much of an advantage since, it would seem, the dealer can probably just wait for someone to come and buy it at a price pretty close to what they are asking. I could be wrong about that though.

    So, suggestions as to what price I should be aiming at? Perhaps I should just be waiting for a private party seller? I did see one yesterday for $4,500 and it was the same year w same miles.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    edited September 2013
    The #1 question you need to ask yourself is: do I really want this car? $7000 seems to be a very high price for a basic 2002 Corolla with 100k miles and 4 owners.

    I just did a search within 100 miles of the Twin Cities using one of the popular car search sites, looking for 2001+ cars ala Mazda3/6, Civic, Elantra, Corolla, Yaris, Sentra, Rabbit/Golf. I found several that are newer and/or with lower miles for a lower asking price, e.g.:

    2003 Corolla LE, 83k miles, $6900
    2003 Elantra GLS, 51k miles, $6880 - has ABS and moonroof
    2002 Civic LX, 90k miles, $6800 - has the optional side airbags
    2005 Mazda6i Sport, 86k miles, $6400 - 6 airbags, ABS/TCS

    So you probably have options besides that 2002 Corolla, if you broaden your search a bit. If anything, you could use other cars as bargaining chips to work the price of the Corolla down.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    How invested are you in this particular car? Can you negotiate for a lower price, knowing you might be unsuccessful and that car might be bought by someone willing to pay nearly 7 grand. Is that you? The trick to used car shopping is not to really care whether you get that exact car and to figure that another may come along at a better price point. There are a lot of used cars out there. Only you can decide how you want to approach this or any other car transaction.

    Myself, I take more of a "meant to be" attitude. If I could negotiate a price I thought I could live with, the car checked out mechanically, and the dealer accepted that price, then it's meant to be. If not, move on.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    The only real feelings I have about this car is that it embodies some of what I am looking for in a used car: good cosmetic condition, below average mileage, and it's of a make and model that's known to go another 150k miles.

    The #1 priority for me though is that I am making a purchase that is financially intelligent. To me this means that the car was purchased at a price much below what an uninformed buyer would have bought it at and that I found value in a way that another buyer wouldn't. At this point I still feel like I am at a HUGE information disadvantage and am so uncomfortable w spending $7,000 on ANY car that I really have no particular warm and fuzzy feelings about this one.

    My uncertainty is largely based on an unfamiliarity with how a dealer would price this vehicle. If it was standard for them to price a vehicle at 25% above what they are willing to let it go for, then I can reasonably offer them a price that I'm comfortable gets me the value I am looking for. If it is the case that they are only pricing the vehicle at 10% above what they are willing to let it go for, then there would really be no value in the car for me at all.

    Backy, were these prices dealer prices or private party?
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    Not emotionally invested at all and would be perfectly happy if it was purchased from under me.

    What I'm struggling with is how to know what a fair price is for the consumer. The only real information I have to go off of are the popular online retail price suggestions, but if dealers simply never sell them at or around that price, it would be foolish of me to burn energy trying to figure out how to get them to do so.
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    Okay, so let's say it keeps getting repeated by knowledgeable folks like the forum members at Edmunds.com that this car is worth $5,000. In that case it would be reasonable to think that the guy who owns the dealership also knows in his/her heart of hearts that $5,000 is what this car is worth.

    My question is, what is a more reasonable assumption about how dealers purchase their vehicles: (1) They know the car is worth $5,000, they buy it at $3,500 and mark it up to $7,000 hoping for a sweetheart of a buyer but with the possibility of selling it at $5,000 to a smart buyer. (2) They know the car is worth $5,000 but, since they aren't looking to sell cars to knowledgeable buyers (and since wholesalers know how the game works), they buy it at $4,500 and mark it up to $7,000 looking for a sweetheart buyer with no intention of letting it go to a knowledgeable buyer for $5,000.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    There is no point in trying to get inside a dealers head. They all have different motives depending on how their month is going. Just pick the price you want to pay and offer it. All they can say is no. End of story. Believe me, they aren't wasting that much effort over a 12 year old economy car.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Instead of trying to micro analyze this deal...what a dealer paid etc, I would suggest that you focus on what you think the car is worth TO YOU!

    Used cars sell for what the market dictates and popular models simply do not last long. We often paid well over book at the auctions for exceptional cars and, of course, we sold them for over book too to customers woul knew the market.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Backy...yes, in rare cases lease residuals can be negotiable but this doesnt' happen often. In the case of your Sentra, Nissan probably made a stupid decision in order to spur sales. In order to make lease payments attractive, they set too high of a residual hoping for the best.

    Knowing they were going to take a massive hit at auction, they allowed you to negotiate your buyout. This sometimes happened and it was a BAD thing because people came to expect this. They should have bit the bullet.

    Now, suppose they had screwed up and set the residual too LOW? Would you have allowed to let them negotiate that amount with you?

    Nissan isn't the only car company that made bad short term decisions for immediate gain only to pay a massive price at lease end.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    These were all dealers.

    Sometimes a price is a price. When I bought the 2005 Mazda6i Sport hatch a couple of months ago, the asking price was $4,880. I knew that was a good price for that car. But I tried to negotiate with the sales rep anyway. He just smiled and told me, "That's the price." He pointed to the new Infinitis on the showfloor and said, "If you would like to buy of these cars, I'll be glad to give you a big discount. But not on a $5,000 car." So I paid the $4,880. :)
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    edited September 2013
    The lady said they've owned it for about 5 months, that it is in great condition but that they've recently come into financial troubles. It seems to be priced fairly by suggested private party price standards. She thinks it has ABS and Dual side air bags.

    Thoughts on this car and price?

    http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/4046141633.html
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Is that a dent in the left side? I would be very careful to make sure the owners have clean title to the car. Sounds a little fishy. But if it checks out, the '09 did have most of the safety features that are important now -- side airbags and I believe ABS was standard by then.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • evolk1evolk1 Member Posts: 11
    edited September 2013
    it's been in one accident, but not much front end damage according to the seller, who is a friend that I work with at my job...selling insurance. He has a wholesale dealer's license and will sell it to me through his buddy that has a retail license. He indicated that the damage amounted to the radiator being perforated near the bottom of it...and that all parts are original other than the radiator, which was replaced, and the airbag sensors in the front that he replaced. It has 137,000 miles on it. Original transmission. Some marks on the paint in various places...what you'd expect with a car that old. Tires will need replacing in 6-7 months most likely. Radio/Stereo was replaced with an aftermarket unit that doesn't take up all the room the old one did, so there is a gap/space of about a half inch on the bottom. Power seats. He indicates that he can get $4000 to $4,500 at either the auction or on the open market / auto trader / craigslist, but that he'll sell it to me for $3,000, which is about the value of a private sale according to Edmunds and KBB, so I'm not sure its a 'great bargain', but my deal is I just don't want a lemon. I need cheap, reliable transportation that has some room/size to it (I'm 6'2" / 270lbs) and that I can also be comfortable in up to 2.5 hour drives to appointments. Thoughts?
  • mrigaenmrigaen Member Posts: 3
    So I have this Fuel/Mileage Logger app in the Android Play Store which has been doing decently well as yet. I was thinking of going a step further and using the information fed in by my users. Things I have access to is the fuel efficiency by the make/model, the miles logged by my users, number of fill ups, the brands my users use, etc.

    I really feel that I can use this data and create a website or maybe another app which provides the real world efficiency as reported by users of different cars. I think this can potentially help people looking for used cars.

    Do you guys think this will be time well spent?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    although the same info can be obtained through fueleconomy.gov, people love apps. personally, I'd rather see it as an add-on to the existing app you speak of.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • mrigaenmrigaen Member Posts: 3
    That totally makes sense. Thanks for the input.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    if you make it for the iphone, I'd actually like to know.

    Speaking of which, maybe that's a good idea for a new topic... car apps. I have several on my phone.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hi all! I've been in the market (and discussed it a bit here, and more in the midsize sedans forum), but I did end up purchasing a new Ram 1500 Crew Cab this weekend. I love it, especially the Uconnect system and the 3.6L engine.
  • mrigaenmrigaen Member Posts: 3
    If I get decent traction with my Android app I will surely port it to Iphone as well. In case you use an android device do try and my app, its called 'Fuel Buddy' and its available in the Google Play Store.

    Yeah, I think I'll start a new thread for the apps members are using.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The Crown Vick is an ancient architecture, but as tough as titanium. You can drive those things over curbs and not hurt them. The accident wouldn't worry me. It all comes down to care at those miles. Properly serviced, I've seen them run 300,000 miles without breaking a sweat in fleets. So, service records matter. The engine needs regular 5,000 mile oil changes. The Trans should have had 2 complete services by now. The rear axle, a grease change at 90,000. If it has had that kind of treatment, you have what you want. But $3,000 is plenty of money for it.
  • berlodberlod Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    Hi :D

    I got my license this month and I'm wandering what car should I buy. I want to spend up to $5,000. I was thinking about few cars like
    2001 acura cl type s
    2001+ toyota celica gt
    2003+ corolla s
    Chevrolet Cobalt
    Subaru (legacy,impreza) , hatchback looks nice, but is 5k enough?
    Would love any BMW or audi A4 but i heard they are not good cars
    I also considered any acura/honda newer than 2000+ , civics (i like hatchback ones).

    I also thought about buying car for cheaper from insurance auction and fixing it. I have a friend who is a mechanic and has dealer's license and also could work with him on the car.

    I would love to get a 2dr but the insurance just scares me (celica). What car looks good, has decent insurance and is pretty fun to drive? Manual/Automatic - doesnt matter. Currently 17 yo, living in Chicago.
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    At your age unfortunately the insurance costs are going to trump every other factor. An older Civic or Corolla is probably your best bet, but you might also consider a bigger, older car like a Buick Lucerne (totally not fun but a pretty solid vehicle and cheap to repair) or a hatch like the 2005 or 2006 Pontiac Vibe. Sometimes insurance costs are less on larger cars. ABS wasn't standard until 2006, so insurance costs are higher on cars without them. The Vibe will be cheaper to insure if it has ABS. Some '04s had them as an option. Also if you stay in Chicago any of those will be good drivers in winter, a factor you didn't mention but certainly one to keep in mind (vs., say, the Celica).
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • tifightertifighter Member Posts: 3,591
    Curious to hear about the mileage you see with the 8 spd. 2wd or 4wd?

    23 Civic Type-R / 22 MDX Type-S / 21 Tesla Y LR / 03 Montero Ltd

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    edited September 2013
    In my commute daily which is 78 miles of Interstate (65-75mph) and 27 miles of 4-lane (with traffic lights peppering the drive), I'm averaging 24.2 on my second tank in a row according to the computer. I've not yet refilled the tank from full due to the fact that the computer wasn't reset when it was filled up upon purchase of the truck. However, if it's anywhere north of 23mpg, I'll be happy.

    I'm not feather-footing it, but when cruising around 70mph, the "instant" mpg meter is averaging 27 or so on flat ground. Of course if there's much of an incline and the cruise control drops a couple of mph, it'll downshift to 7th and hop right back to the set speed. At 60mph, it runs around 1,400 RPM (I have the 3.21 Axle, CrewCrab, 2WD).

    Maybe I'll shoot some video with my phone and throw it on youtube for the interested parties.

    TheGrad
  • klt82klt82 Member Posts: 3
    Losing coolant. However, no visual evidence of leak, no water in oil, no white smoke out exhaust. Any suggestions to what is causing this problem?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Try posting it in a Honda Civic forum here on Edmunds. There are great "maintenance and repair" forums with helpful people. This forum is geared more towards purchasing a car.
  • klt82klt82 Member Posts: 3
    [the graduate. We thought that was where we posted it (we are new at this) and thanks to your suggestion, we hopefully posted it to the right forum this time.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2013
    I moved your other post here:

    klt82, "Honda Civic Cooling Problems" #48, 18 Sep 2013 6:14 am

    Good luck with it!
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    Alright all:

    I ended up purchasing a 2002 Acura TL with 106k miles for $6,000. It had the timing belt and water pump replaced at 90k and I had him replace the struts and shocks as well as the front motor mount before I agreed to the purchase (per mechanical inspection). In addition to the ABS and Side air it has a lot of amenities that I've never had in a vehicle before and is in near mint condition.

    It wasn't what I started out looking for but I found that if I wanted side air bags and ABS I'd have to pay at least 30% more than I really wanted to.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    Pretty nice car ace - we had one and loved it.

    Bill G
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Congratulations! Hope you love it!
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    How many transmissions did you go through, Bill?
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    As I recall, Honda did have some major transmission problems with those vehicles. The original transmission in our vehicle did fail and was replaced under warranty. The replacement transmission performed flawlessly and we had no more problems. Other than the transmission issue, we loved the car.

    Are you able to determine if the car you bought had the transmission issue? From what I remember, not all did.

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    I'm currently in the process of sorting through all that right now but, I may end up NOT being the new owner of an old Acura.

    I left the gentleman yesterday with a handshake agreement that if he got the struts and shocks & motor mount replaced, I'd pick it up Friday morning. At the beginning of the process he told me that the car had been into the dealership on a recall inspection and that they told him the transmission was not problematic. When I came home yesterday I started looking more into the transmission issues and realized just how severe they were so I made a few calls to the dealerships around here, checking the Vehicles vin history and I haven't gotten anything near a satisfying answer with regards to the transmission issue. I've told the gentleman he'll need to supply papers that confirm that his claim that the transmission is a non-issue is true. He sort of claims that he lost the papers and gave me a small run around when I told him that he should just contact the dealership.

    Anyways, I am sort of feeling bad because I did, without FULLY researching (but on his word) agree that if he had the strut/shock/mount work performed, I'd purchase the vehicle. He says it's in the shop right now and that he was going to pay the mechanic with the money I would end up paying him for the vehicle, and it seems as though I may be backing out of the transaction. Should I feel bad about this? Clearly I'm not obligated to buy the car, but I didn't necessarily make my purchase contingent on him showing me that paperwork -- but now suddenly I am. I feel like, as an act of good faith, I may be (sort of) obligated to compensate him in some small way for the work he is having done for me.

    Thoughts on this?
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    What kind of transmission issues are we talking about? If you are speaking of that model Acura in general, I don't think that would figure in as long as that particular vehicle's transmission checks out fine. Back in the day, some Honda Odyssey owners had repeated troubles with their transmissions while many owners experienced no problems at all. Do you have reason to believe that this particular vehicle has had transmission problems that were not disclosed to you? In that case you are under no obligation to purchase.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    edited September 2013
    It seems that the 2001 Acura TL had a really high rate of failure in the transmission and that a recall was issued. I've been told by a lot of people that if you are driving on the original transmission, you are a ticking time bomb.

    He told me that the dealer said his car doesn't need a new transmission, but I couldn't confirm that in conversation with the dealers. In addition the recall was issued 5 year before he became the owner so I have a hard time believing that he received any mail from the dealer asking him to come in to inspect the issue (he claims this is the case). Part of the problem is that we have a bit of a language barrier to cross. He admitted he can't read English very well. I believe he could have very easily gotten a letter from the dealership that said "hey, it's time for your transmission servicing" and he would have just understood that to mean they were inspecting the transmission to see if it was impacted by the recall when, in fact, all they were doing was draining the transmission fluid etc.

    The exact recall verbiage is as follows:

    Recall Date:
    APR 15, 2004
    Model Affected:
    2002 Acura TL
    Summary:
    ON SOME MINI VANS, SPORT UTILITY AND PASSENGER VEHICLES, CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS CAN RESULT IN HEAT BUILD-UP BETWEEN THE COUNTERSHAFT AND SECONDARY SHAFT SECOND GEARS IN THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, EVENTUALLY LEADING TO GEAR TOOTH CHIPPING OR GEAR BREAKAGE.
    Consequences:
    GEAR FAILURE COULD RESULT IN TRANSMISSION LOCKUP, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH.
    Remedy:
    ON VEHICLES WITH 15,000 MILES OR LESS, THE DEALER WILL UPDATE THE TRANSMISSION WITH A SIMPLE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE TO INCREASE LUBRICATION TO THE SECOND GEAR. ON VEHICLES WITH MORE THAN 15,000 MILES, THE DEALER WILL INSPECT THE TRANSMISSION TO IDENTIFY GEARS THAT HAVE ALREADY EXPERIENCED DISCOLORATION DUE TO OVERHEATING. IF DISCOLORATION EXISTS, THE TRANSMISSION WILL BE REPLACED IF DISCOLORATION IS NOT PRESENT, THE DEALER WILL PERFORM THE REVISION TO THE OIL COOLER RETURN LINE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON APRIL 21, 2004, FOR PILOT, ODYSSEY, AND MDX OWNERS. OWNERS OF THE ACCORD VEHICLES WILL START RECEIVING LETTERS ON JUNE 28, 2004, AND ON JUNE 29, 2004, FOR OWNERS OF THE TL AND CL VEHICLES. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
    Potential Units Affected:
    1099796
    Notes:
    HONDA (AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO.)
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Call Honda and see if yours is one of the affected TLs (the recall says "on some"). If so, can a service department tell if the recall servicing has been done?

    My son bought a Buick LeSabre that had a very large recall for something involving the manifold (I'm not even sure what that is!). We contacted Buick before we bought it, and discovered that that vehicle was not among the affected ones. Ten years later he's still driving it.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • acemanhattanacemanhattan Member Posts: 79
    I found out that in 2006, when the vehicle had 42k miles, the revision to the oil cooler return line was made. This means that they assessed the problem and then decided that a transmission replacement wasn't necessary. This is good news. The bad news is that there are instances of people who had this revision done still ending up with a failing transmission. I am not sure how often this occurred, I just know that it has.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc Member Posts: 699
    Ace - can the seller provide documentation showing required regular transmission fluid service on the car - like at least every 30k miles? This is key to the transmission achieving long life. If he had his maintenance done at a Honda or Acura dealer, it might be in their system. Keep in mind, with any vehicle that has this much mileage, how long major components will hold up is anyone's guess.

    Bill
    2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver
    2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I have a deceased friend who died in one of these when it "locked up" on the freeway and caused a bad crash. This was many years ago, when Honda still disavowed any defect in their cars, because "it just couldn't happen to Honda! We're perfect in every way."

    The recall came out later, finally exonerating my friend from "driver's error". She didn't sue - she was dead.

    My point is: Honda is overrated. They're good, but not always the best, and not perfect. The make a great small engine though.
  • benjaminhbenjaminh Member Posts: 6,311
    Congrats!
    2018 Acura TLX 2.4 Tech 4WS (mine), 2018 Honda CR-V EX AWD (wife's)
  • mehismehis Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone who has sent a post to on this site, can somebody answer my question here ? Since everybody has complained about(Toyota, Honda, Nissan,Ford,BMW , now which car would somebody advise me to buy now. Any help will be appreciated.
  • brendapibrendapi Member Posts: 3
    I own a Nissan Altima and I would never go back to what I used to buy which was Ford. The problem is that the most of the people that write on this sight are the people that have a problem with the type of vehicle they have. You do not see the good stuff all that often. My Nissan is 2008 and I absolutely love it. My next car will definitely be a Nissan! I have 2 friends and a family member that have Nissans and they won't buy anything but Nissan. I have numerous friends and family members that own Toyota and they only buy Toyota because of their great experiences with them. Hope this helps! Good luck!
  • mlmcgaheemlmcgahee Member Posts: 102
    I completely agree with brendapi. I have a 2010 Altima Coupe with 62000 miles on it and I have had Zero problems with it. My gf bought a 2012 Altima sedan a year ago and she loves it. Great car... Great gas mileage...

    Mike
  • MichaellMichaell Moderator Posts: 240,084
    Helldo mehis.

    Every manufacturer and model has its proponents and detractors. Your best bet is to do some basic research here at Edmunds, then go out and test drive 3-5 cars that interest you.

    What's important? Gas mileage, ride comfort, info-tainment? Use that criteria to narrow down your choices.

    What are you driving now? Do you like it?

    My best friends sister recently needed to buy a new car. She drove a Mazda Protégé for 10 years and 220K miles, and they asked me for advice. I figured that since she loved her Mazda so much she would go out and buy a Mazda 3.

    Nope - she ended up getting a 2011 Toyota Camry XLE V6.

    We're all here to help .. give us some since of what you're looking for and why and the opinions will come fast and heavy, I guarantee.

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and let us know! Post a pic of your new purchase or lease!


    MODERATOR

    2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I would never rule out an entire brand, out of hand. I've owned all of those you listed plus many more. I decide what car to buy (or lease) based on my specific criteria at that time. Whatever car fits the criteria best for the lowest cost, I'll get. Right now I own or lease two Hyundais, a Kia, and a Mazda. But my next car may not be from any one of those brands.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,952
    We now have in our stable a Mazda, a Nissan, a Honda and a Hyundai and they are all excellent vehicles. We've owned numerous Toyota's, had a Buick, Oldsmobile and an Isuzu and the Isuzu was garbage but we liked all the rest! Go do your research, test drive and make a qualified decision...all your information is out there. Good luck!!

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

Sign In or Register to comment.