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Suspension
I recently had a 4 wheel alignemt on my car (ls400)it was pulling to the right.
That was fine , my car rode straight.
A few weeks later my car seems to be drifting to the right, what is it now? (I have new tires) Does this mean that my suspension is worn out and is the probable cause>? what else could it be?
That was fine , my car rode straight.
A few weeks later my car seems to be drifting to the right, what is it now? (I have new tires) Does this mean that my suspension is worn out and is the probable cause>? what else could it be?
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What is your analysis?
Always ask for a before after print out and study the wheel to wheel variances!
So the few of us who care to keep alignments perfect and drive on real tires must suffer.
When you have a precision set up the car will pull left on a left cambered road [lane] and pull right when you are in the slow lane [right cambered].
Roads are the result of low bidding and no quality control since once it's down it's down, they may pay a penalty but that doesn't help the road.
In 1981 the method of building steel belted tires changed and almost all tires were being built the new way by May 1. Previously the steel in the belts was composed of twisted cables of multiple wires. The new method uses crimped individual wires. The crimping makes the wires look like they were unwound from a cable. The advantages include total rubber contact with all surfaces of each wire for better bond, and a little 'give' to each wire that prevents it form being easily pulled loose from the rubber. This is the reason given for the change from recommending tires be kept on the same side of the car. It also eliminated the harsh ride for which radials were known.
Another point that I saw in tire trade magazines was that trucks had begun using radials, and were having tires recapped after the tread wore off. Thinking direction of rotation important and installers being unable to determine the original direction of rotation, recappers expected a high percentage of failure. The high percentage did not occur. Tire engineers began to suspect that direction of rotation was not as important as first thought.
A point seldom read anywhere, is that on a rear wheel drive car the forces against the belt are different front to rear because, the wheel drives the tread on the rear tire, and on the front especially when braking the tread drives the wheel. To keep the major forces in the same dirrection on each tire, we should have been "X ing" the tires all along. If force direction mattered, front wheels of front drive cars would have had a higher failure rate than any other application.
I have probably bored everyone to sleep with this long post, but the point is: With modern radial tires if they are not designated to be a directional tire, reversing them will not harm them.
Harry
thank you,
Mr. Shiftright
Host
You can test the switch if you have a pit, drive on rack, or other way to get under the car with the weight on the wheels and the car level. Pop the link off the control arm,(look at it, it unlatches then can be pulled off the ball) and manually move the switch, * wait * it doesn't actuate immediately, this will tell you if the switch works. Sometimes checking will fix it. If the back is real low it may be passed the point where it turns on, and moving the switch to turn on the compressor raises the car to where it works when you reconnect it.
Harry