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Mazda6 Sedan

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Comments

  • Dealer text on fuel odor recall:

    CONDITION OF CONCERN
    On subject vehicles, the fuel tank lock ring, which holds the fuel pump in the fuel tank, and/or the fuel pump seal, may have been installed improperly. In some cases, this may result in a fuel odor from fuel leaking from the fuel pump area, causing fuel accumulation. Fuel leakage in sufficient quantity in the presence of an ignition source could potentially result in a vehicle fire.

    SUBJECT VEHICLES
    U.S. Model

    Model
    VIN Range
    Build Date Range

    2003 MAZDA6
    All 2003 models
    October 2, 2002—August 6, 2003

    Canadian Model

    Canadian Model
    VIN Range
    Build Date Range

    2004 MAZDA6
    2004 models
    October 2, 2002—August 6, 2003

    OWNER NOTIFICATION
    Mazda will notify U.S. owners by first class mail beginning January 15, 2004.

    Mazda Motor Corporation has determined that a defect, which relates to motor vehicle safety, exists on 2003 U.S.-sold and 2004 Canadian-sold MAZDA6 vehicles produced from October 2, 2002 to August 6, 2003.
  • regfootballregfootball Posts: 2,166
    it is generally better to take the rebates and finance yourself because then your loan buyout is less through the life of the loan.

    which means in 3 years when you try to trade, your payoff will be less. you can stay on top of your loan instead of being underneath.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    "it is generally better to take the rebates and finance yourself because then your loan buyout is less through the life of the loan."

    It depends on a number of factors. It depends on what interest rate you could get instead of 0%. It depends on how much the rebate is. It depends on how long you plan to keep the car. You really have to work the numbers on a specific deal to see whether the 0% financing or the rebate has the lowest absolute cost. If you plan on keeping the car, the 0% financing could be a better deal. One thing is for sure though, with a rebate, you get the full discount up front, with 0% financing, you have to wait the full term of the loan to realize the full discount.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    the rebate is usually equal to the finance rate for 48 months. If you finance for 60 months, at other than 0% interest, the rebate is the better deal. It depends, as has been pointed out, on how long you will keep the car. If you pay cash and then later need the money you can always get a car loan elsewhere.

    Most banks are not offering new car loans to depositors, they buy loans from the dealers which are not financed by car manufacturers. In this way the dealers get a rebate from banks. Your payments in the beginning are mostly interest and over the term of the loan it changes to mostly principal. That's why you don't want to sell or trade too soon, you will owe too much principal.

    fowler3
  • I was on MyMazda tonight to update my mileage, and the recall notice that was previously there disappeared! I wonder if Mazda was getting too many inquiries before the "official" announcement in January.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    and I found a cool performance upgrade for 6i owners. If any of you 6i owners ever plan on modding your car up to 1000 hp (lol), you might want to check this out. I'd probably get this done after I get my rust fixed, and maybe a strut tower bar too, just in case the intake mod pushes me over 1000. Skip the Honda the ones, the Mazda/Ford one is at the bottom of the page...

    http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeving.html
  • So what's the main difference between the 2003 and 2004 model, the dealership are offering $2500 rebate for the 2003 model and I'm thinking whether I should get the new year's model or not.
  • What month did the 04's come out? Im going to be buying my car sometime next August and I was wondering if I could get the 05 model.
  • The last date of production for the 2003s was 8/6/03. 2004s started hitting the lots in late September/early October.
  • Over the course of the 12 months that the 6 has been out there has not been enough time for there to be a significant difference. Because anyone who can qualify for the 0.0% probably has alternative financing through a credit union or bank at very low rates. While not 0.0% the amount of interest paid on a low rate loan would be minimal. At this point it's reasonable to argue prices paid regardless of the interest rate as long as you aren't paying more than 5%.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The 6 is included in Edmunds' latest Family Sedan comparo. You can access the article through the Helpful Links box on the left side of the page.
  • theo2709theo2709 Posts: 476
    What's up guys (and gals), I am in the market for a new car and the 6 is on my short list. I wanted to ask you guys straight up: how real is the "rust issue"? Furthur, are the cars sitting on the lot right now free from the problem? Does it affect 04s? Exactly how large are the "stains" if and when they pop up? Are the stains just on the inside of the door? And lastly, would a dealer cover the charge of the "fix", and if not how much is it? Thanks for the help, nothing beats Edmunds when it comes to owner's and maintenence message boards!
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    The rust issue is "real" if you get car with the problem. Cars on dealer lots can not be assumed to be free of the problem. I don't think anyone can say with certainty that the 04s are not affected, as the VIN range that Mazda quoted seems to be wrong. The fix is performed under warranty so there is no cost to the owner (assuming the fix works).

    My local dealer has a Mazda6 equipped exactly that way I want it, but until this is resolved I'll probably pass on it, and maybe get a Mazda3.
  • theo2709theo2709 Posts: 476
    Thanks Gary. Glad to hear the fix is under warranty. How big/noticeable are the stains? Also, is there any danger of any parts corroding?
  • The rust/stain varies from car to car and by region. The only reason region is an issue is the weather that is experienced in that region. Cars on the rainy east coast are much more affected than cars in dry and sunny southern California. My car (San Diego) has numerous small spots. Some cars that are on the east coast have massive staining that nearly spans the entire upper door frame. Some cars don't have any signs of staining or rusting at all. Check the car you are looking at thoroughly. If the car is affected, it will show signs immediately (i.e., at the dealership lot).
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Rust IS one form of corrosion. Some of us believe that the "staining" is from rust, and not the "soapy solution" as claimed by Mazda.
  • My M6S is in the VIN list of cars potentially affected by rust but I can't find any trace of it. I checked several times at different places. I even used a cotton swab to check under tight spaces but still there is no trace of it. Built date was 03/03. Am I the only one here with no rust?
  • rodlcwrodlcw Posts: 45
    Does anyone have a snap or click sound? I usually hear it while turning right, but I think I have heard it at other times? My ears are bad, so hard to tell where it comes from, but seems like I hear it from different locations.
    I have a S auto loaded.
  • This sound has been known to plague 6's worldwide. Mazda has not released a fix, but try this:

    Release your steering column lock lever and move the steering wheel up and down, in and out several times. This should help to lubricate the steering column, and has helped several owners here. This temporary solution came from Mazda U.K.
  • ian2ian2 Posts: 168
    What's the fix to this problem? I took apart my front doors, tightened everything, but the noise is still there.
  • I would take it into your dealership. This was a common problem with the early builds and they are quite familiar with the fix. The problem is the window mounting bolts. They were not tightened correctly at the factory and allowed the glass to move when the window reached the top of their run. The dealership will also correctly position the glass, as there is room for adjustments.
  • rodlcwrodlcw Posts: 45
    I did the move steering column in and out and up and down, no change. Like I said, I have a hearing problem, but I think I hear my sound from behind me and once in awhile I thought I heard it down by the steering column. Scheduled to take it in jan 6th, and maybe they can better isolate noise. Also hope they can fix the dang squealing brakes when turning. Also the automatic gear shift squeake when moving it from drive to park or back. And i hear there is some recall regarding something with the fuel ???
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    Maybe a worn CV joint in the front?? Maybe the CV boot was torn and dirt and crud have gotten in there. Clicking sound when turning is a sign of that.
  • ian2ian2 Posts: 168
    Worn CV joint and torn CV boot in a one-year-old car? That's highly unlikely.
  • Rodlcw

    There is a recall pertaining to the fuel sender unit possibly being improperly installed in the fuel tank, which may cause a fuel leak. The Mazda recall number is 1403L. You can see this information on the NHTSA web site.
  • For those who have had their 6 fixed according to the TSB 09-20/03, to the best of your knowledge, was there rust below the weatherstripping?
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    and it's been there since 8:00 AM. It's 4:30 PM now here.

    They said they were going to have their body shop take a look at it. I'm also having the window clunk checked out and getting the tires rotated. It's been there for 8 1/2 hours; they must not be doing the "staining" TSB, because if they did, I'd have my car now instead of this Corolla that kills my back. I've read comments about the Corolla's seats, but I didn't know they were this bad.

    I forgot to mention the fuel tank thing, I wonder if they'll do it anyway? It might show up when they punch in my VIN.
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    A torn CV boot can happen by running over a tree branch, piece of metal et al. One may not even notice it. It has nothing to do with age. Once a boot is torn, even a little bit of grit/sand/gravel mixing with the lubricant can cause damage.

    It most likely not the case but it is a possibility and I did not state that my suggestion was the definitive answer just that the clicking sound when turning is a symptom of worn CV joints.
  • rodlcwrodlcw Posts: 45
    Hey guys, I appreciate any suggested possibility, that is what I think this board is about. It is annoying to me and I would like to get it fixed. It is interesting that it mainly happens when turning right, but I think I have heard it a couple times just going straight. Bought the car one year ago, and it went many months without this. I also had the window issue, early on and they resolved that. Early on I had a leak and i can't exactly remember right now but seems like in the transaxle.
  • Turned 11,000 on my 6s AT today. 3/03 build date.

    Work to date:

    1) Rust/Stain repair on all 4 doors. No sign of anything returning.
    2) Window Clunk repaired by tightening bolts.

    Otherwise, perfect.

    Mark. : )
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    It's been there since 8:00 AM yesterday.

    I never thought I'd miss ol' rusty, but after driving that Corolla rental, I'd give my left arm to have the 6 back. The seats in the Corolla are torture to the point that I didn't want to drive it. People think the Corolla looks like the 6, but I don't really think so. I was embarrassed to be driving it, and was hesitant to walk up to it if people were around.

    I can't wait to see what the body shop surgery looks like.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    and it doesn't look like they did anything to it. There are still "stains". If they did anything, I can't tell. The only thing it says on the work order is "repair door sash".

    There's a new explanation of what the stains are too. My service advisor said the rubber weatherstripping reacted negatively with whatever they put on the door sashes during assembly and THAT's what's causing the "staining". Whatever. We have a better chance of figuring out who killed Kennedy than getting a straight answer on what these weird brown stains are.

    I don't really care anymore and I'm not going to go back to the dealer and ask them why they needed my car for a day and a half when it doesn't look like they did anything. I have my piece of paper that documents the issue and I don't really know what else I can do. Maybe it's not rust? Maybe it's dried up soap? Maybe it's the weatherstripping reacting negatively with the strange substance? Maybe the guy who puts on the weatherstripping at Flat Rock is really messy and doesn't wash his hands after he takes a crap? Who knows? I'll be sure to find out before my rust warranty runs out.
  • Sorry to hear that your service department seems to have done nothing with your car despite having it for over a day. Are there any other dealers near you to have them look at it?

    "Maybe the guy who puts on the weatherstripping at Flat Rock is really messy and doesn't wash his hands after he takes a crap?"

    LOL!!
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Yeah, there are 3 other dealers that I could bring it too, but I'm not going to because it's a pain. I'm just going to let it go and see what happens. If it's not rust I'll be happy. If it's rust, and I'll figure that out sooner or later because I'm going to keep an eye on it, Mazda's gonna fix it.
  • Own a 2003 Lapis blue Mazda6s, 3000 miles. So far no rust issues, slight drift to left with steering. One dealership informed me he has had other owners complain of this problem and that Mazda has not provided him proper specs to allign the car correctly. Also, rear view defroster weak. Otherwise, I have been very happy with my purchase. Love the V6 power, glad I chose it over the 4 cyclinder. 21 mpg in mixed driving. Happy with the Bose stereo system and performance of the heated seats. I also purchased a Pro5 as my main transportation vehicle around town. Very pleased with it too. I initially owned a Mazda B2200 before purchasing a Toyota RAV4. Glad I got rid of the Toy and am back in the Mazda family.
  • r2s2r2s2 Posts: 93
    Had my Redfire M6s MT since mid-July. Not a single issue or problem, including staining/rust. It's a blast to drive. I just wish the RX-8 hadn't caught my eye darn it.
  • mazda6smazda6s Posts: 1,901
    Could you be so kind as to give us the build option combos for the Mazda6 hatchback? If you know the standard equipment that would be great too. ;)
  • kannonkannon Posts: 18
    I noticed on my Lapis Blue Mazda 6 that there are a lot of scratches. I have been really careful about wax and the car and not using any sharp objects to remove the snow that we got in the first week of December. Is anyone else seeing a lot of scratches on their car??? Is the Lapis Blue more prone to scratches?? Is anyone unhappy about the paint quality?? Thanks.
  • accord7accord7 Posts: 96
    In looking at the 6 on dealer's lots recently, I've noticed that nearly all of the cars are fully loaded. When you start comparing a loaded 6i with the 4-cylinder engine to the Accord 4-cylinder, the Mazda is much higher priced. I don't know if this is the dealer's doing or Mazda corporate, but this may not be the best way to gain marketshare.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Posts: 2,287
    True enough. But gaining marketshare may not be the goal. Making a profit may be. 100 percent of a market at a loss is still a loss.
  • moose54moose54 Posts: 20
    Kannon,

    I had asked other 6 owners about problems with the paint chipping on their cars. I have the steel gray color which seems to chip too easily and because of this I'm questioning the quality of the paint job.
  • I'm sorry to hear about the job they did. You're not the first Mazda6 owner I have heard of having a similar experience, and I doubt you'll be the last. I have yet to take mine in for the door sash fix. However, when mine goes in, I will fight for a bodyshop repair since I have actual rust and not staining. On Wednesday, I found five new rust areas at the sash rail welds... and I only inspected the driver's door. I will have it done when I get the fuel leak recall later this month. Between the recall, rust repair, and a bunch of other issues, the car will break the 30-day cumulative out-of-service requirement of the California Lemon Law.

    I have already begun researching the next car I am going to get to replace this one. It won't be another 6, that's for sure. So far, the Prius is my top choice, but impossible since there is a 6-8 month waiting list. The 3 is the only other appealing car in the price range I'm looking at, but I don't find it appealing enough to own. I'm lost and confused. The Mini is too small and you can't get an auto tranny with the Cooper S. An automatic Miata is just wrong.
    Solara? Accord Coupe? Ugh... I never thought of owning anything but a Mazda.
  • Let's see if 1 billion Chinese will flock over to buy the 6, making it the best-selling car in the world! BTW, the car there is assembled in China. Let's hope they don't have any "stain" issue.

    http://motortrend.com/features/news/112_031224_mazda6/
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I'm kinda glad they didn't do anything because if it rust, I'll be able to keep an eye on it still.
  • I live in Upstate, NY. I drive 70-80 mph most of the time on the expressways. Expressway driving is 70% of my total. Envision the salt, gravel, and sand hitting the front of my 6s. I have no Bra.

    I have no chips in the paint on the front of my Steel Grey 6s.

    Mark.
  • aperry1aperry1 Posts: 13
    I have a 6i fully loaded, and I just love it. I have no rust problems, or anything with the paint. The only problem I have it the Bose system isn't loud enough (I'm 21, I like the noise). I wish I could have gotten another color besides the Redfire Metallic (dad was rushing me). I have had the car for almost three months (Jan. 7), and by that time I will probably have 5000 miles. Time for an oil change....Should I go to the Mazda dealer (they offer $24.95), or go elsewhere?
  • Well, the 6i uses a cartridge filter rather than a spin-on filter. I doubt any other place carries it. You could buy the filter and O-rings (2 are required) at the dealership and take them to an oil change shop. However, the filter and O-rings will run between $10-$18 (depending on dealer), so it would be cheaper overall to have the dealership do it. Believe me, with as complicated as this oil change is, you want the dealer to do it. Here's a brief outline on changing the oil on the 6i:

    1) Lift and secure car.
    2) Remove engine under cover (6 bolts).
    3) Remove oil pan plug and drain.
    4) Remove filter cover drain plug and drain (6.5mm allen wrench).
    5) Remove filter cover (oil filter wrench).
    6) Remove filter from spring-loaded mechanism.
    7) Install new filter on spring-loaded mechanism.
    8) Remove O-ring from filter cover.
    9) Replace with new O-ring (Ford Motor Company part).
    10) Remove O-ring from filter cover drain plug.
    11) Replace with new O-ring.
    12) Install filter cover and torque.
    13) Install filter cover drain plug and torque.
    14) Install oil pan drain plug.
    15) Fill with new oil.
    16) Inspect for leaks.
    17) Install engine under cover.
  • "I have already begun researching the next car I am going to get to replace this one. It won't be another 6, that's for sure. So far, the Prius is my top choice, but impossible since there is a 6-8 month waiting list. The 3 is the only other appealing car in the price range I'm looking at, but I don't find it appealing enough to own. I'm lost and confused. The Mini is too small and you can't get an auto tranny with the Cooper S. An automatic Miata is just wrong.
    Solara? Accord Coupe? Ugh... I never thought of owning anything but a Mazda."

    What about a Passat TDI coming soon in April 04?
  • The Mini is small? Have you sat in it? It has to be one of the roomiest front seats I've ever sat in, and I'm 6'5" tall.
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