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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    It isn't an issue isolated to Subaru. I have seen this complaint on other make/model discussions. My guess - sounds more like a training issue than a mechanical one?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Mark,

    It is indeed a good question.... Trying to determine the torque that was previously applied by using a 'click type' wrench is very difficult to do. You can get a much better indication by going back into your tool box for your old standard 'beam type' and taking the reading off the deflection gauge. Tug until the lug just moves a fraction, and read off the value.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Some alloy wheels have steel inserts in the lug area, but I do not believe that Subaru OEM wheels (at least the ones on my OBW don't seem to) have this feature. Therefore, a thin section of aluminum alloy took quite a bit of abuse at almost double the torqe pressure. You might consider removing the wheel and checking for cracks. Usually metalurgical stuff is rated for 3x the normal working stress, so 2x should be OK. Low probability of serious damage, but it doesn't hurt to be paranoid sometimes.....

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Hans: inspect the area, is there a new boot? I think that's the type of thing you'd be able to tell.

    I'd go back to the dealer, their work is guaranteed for a full year, FWIW.

    -juice
  • parksparks Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Legacy 5 speed with 800 miles. When upshifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd at about 2000 rpm the engine " stumbles/hesitates " as the clutch is released. If you race the engine and shift above 3500 rpm there is no noticeable hesitation.There is no C/E light on.
    Dealer claims to have never heard of this!!!
    Anyone have any experience of this?
    The '94 Legacy 5 speed I traded had no such problem.
    This makes driving in slow " stop/go "traffic unpleasant.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd try an ECU reset first by disonnecting the battery for 20 minutes. Get a clean slate. Maybe during the PDI it sat and idled for a long time, dunno.

    -juice
  • ozman62ozman62 Member Posts: 229
    is normal for these engines. You are not 'racing' the engine. In fact, if you're shifting up from second to third at 2000 rpm, the result is that your engine is trying to accelerate your car at a little better than idle in third gear. Not good, this is the definiton of lugging. No doubt you're getting stumbling and hesitation. This is not a high tourque v8 engine, get those revs up, these engines have no problem with it (despite the busy sounds). Check your owners manual, I think it outlines optimum shifting speeds/ rpms for each gear.
    HTH, Owen
  • ryguywiryguywi Member Posts: 2
    Hello posters (not wall hangings)

    I have an issue here that is starting to drive me batty.

    I currently have a 2001 LL bean. I drove out to see family in Arizona (from WI) in March. While going through Colorado, I started to notice a subtle rattle in the engine compartment. I thought maybe injectors so when I got to Phoenix I took my car in.

    It had about 59800 miles on it when I drove onto the lot so I thought that if it were powertrain related it would still be covered under warranty.

    It turned out that the timing chain tensioners/pullies were bad and they had to replace them. After 6 days of them having the car, they finally replaced these parts, under warranty.

    On the drive home (again in Colorado) I noticed a thunk under the hood while going up a hill on the highway. It only happened once, and the car seemed to be driving fine. However, I stopped at the next exit to check it out. When I was at idle, I noticed a rythmic sound coming from the engine. A check showed that the power steering pully was EXTREMELY Bent. I took off the soundproofing and saw that the bolts holding the pump were loose and that one was missing (obviously had come out and bent the pulley as it did). The nearest Subaru dealer couldn't see it until the next week so I took it to a GoodYear garage. It would take 3 days and $600 to get the part.

    Now my assumption and theirs was that the bolts were not tightened/torqued when the dealer in Arizona put the car back together. I also didn't have the time to sit in CO and wait for parts as I had already been delayed in AZ. So they took the pump out and beat the pully back into alignment (kinda) and told me it could fail at any moment.

    Fortunately the pump and the pulley made it back home and I took it to Subaru in Waukesha. They refused to fix it and said that the pully was "operating within specs." I called the dealer in AZ and they initially said they would have it fixed and then reversed that when they talked to the dealer in Waukesha whom told them it was "operating within specs." Now they are refusing to return my calls and to fix the pump.

    Now, wether or not it is operating within specs or not, you don't fix a part like this by flogging it with a hammer. I feel this should be fixed but I don't know where to go next. The "responsible" dealer is 2000 miles away and I don't see the point in sticking too much money into getting them to fix it as I could just replace it myself. Any info would be helpful
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    board for a suggestion.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • frogfrog Member Posts: 52
    I have an 04 5speed wagon with about 1200 miles... it took a while to learn the thing but mine shifts smoothe and is quiet and even forgiving.. not to mention torqy and fun. The key for smoothe transitions between gears is a soft touch and slow release of the clutch, which has great feel anyway and happens automatically after a few tries.. As far as engine stumbling, I would say you are likely not revving it up enough and are lugging the small engine.. also the boxer engine sounds gravely in low rpms.. could cause concern though is part of the personality.. If the lugging continues, follow Juices thoughts, or better yet, drive another 5 speed at the dealer to make sure the car is at fault.. good luck. F.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If I do the proper torque it's way way too loose. I have had several snapped studs recently due to a shop overtorquing down the lugs and when I took em off I snapped it off. Fine line between the proper torque and too tight or too loose.

    No matter how tight I manually tighten my lugs I haven't warped my rotors due to it, with an impact I believe you could do it though. What we do at our shop is use impact on the lower setting to snug up the lugs, then we hand torque them down after it's on the ground.

    -mike
  • cargeekishcargeekish Member Posts: 5
    I own a 95' Subaru Legacy wagon and it has started to rust. It is not a huge problem yet, but i am starting to worry about. My 2 questions are the following: Would this car qualify for the corrosion warranty or has that been long expired? And what is the best way to solve this problem?
  • atlantaobackatlantaoback Member Posts: 2
    I am the happy owner of a '99 O'back with just under 80k. In reading the Consumer Reviews on Edmunds it seems that there are quite a few complaints for this model year - head gasket and transmissions. All of these issues seem to crop up around the mileage that I am nearing. I love my (2nd) Subie and everything SOA stands for, but I don't like the thought of a $3,000 engine repair. I have replaced 2 major seals on the engine (front & rear). That is it though for major repairs. Should I hang on to it or get a newer one? Any comments/advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    So you've changed the O-ring on the oil pump and the rear main seal. That's good, in fact I recommend changing these when you do the timing belt anyway.

    But no, I don't think I'd pre-emptively sell your car at 80k miles when the gaskets have been fine so far. I have a '98 with 63k miles and it's been fine. In total there are 5 subies in my family, currently, and all 10 of those head gaskets are fine.

    When they do go people tend to complain loudly and it might make you think "they all do that", but then how could all 10 head gaskets we own be perfectly fine?

    cargeekish: where are you seeing rust? The car is approaching 10 years of age, but I don't recall what the rust perforation warranty covered (perhaps 10 years?). Is it just on the surface or all the way through the sheet metal?

    In the pre-galvanized steel days it used to be common, but not so much any more. Most of the panels on your Legacy are galvanized. Did you have any body repairs done, perhaps with aftermarket panels? Or a new paint job?

    -juice
  • atlantaobackatlantaoback Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the comments. I guess you have a good point. I will begin monitoring the gaskets per what I've read on some other postings here. I haven't noticed any major leaks or had any major engine temperature issues. I am currently having some hard shifting issues in the tranny though. The first shift of the day from 2nd to 3rd is always hard and then frequently in stop & go traffic the same shift pattern is rough. Any ideas here? Is is a prelude?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would just get the ATF fluid flushed. I think that only runs about $80 or so.

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Or you could be like me and have a new short block due to piston slap and new head gaskets due to overheating issues, both within the 60K powertrain warranty.

    I can't back this up with statistics, but based on the amount of grumbling going on over head gaskets I tend to think that the numbers probably bear out the claim.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You need to have a big hole before the warranty will kick in IIRC.

    -mike
  • cargeekishcargeekish Member Posts: 5
    The rust is on the door edges and a bit on the trunk. I think its all the way though the sheet metal or at least starting to go into the sheet metal. The only repairs that were done were on the front end because of an accident but thats all? But i am trying to wonder if this can be fixed by the subaru dealership because various car companies offer a 10 year rust protection clause but currently subaru has 5 years...hopefully its 10 years 10 years ago....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Call 800-SUBARU3 and ask, have your VIN handy.

    -juice
  • sugardogsugardog Member Posts: 41
    I own a 1999 Outback Limited, 43000 mi.

    The car is in the shop today having the rear differential replaced under warranty, the warranty expires next month. (july 2004)

    Is this a common problem with Subaru?
    It seems strange to me to have a rear diff fail before the tires or brakes are worn out.

    I am soooo glad that it went before the warranty expired.
  • jd2kbluesubrujd2kbluesubru Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon. I love the car, But I HATE those annoying Daytime Running Lights!!! I have been trying to have those blinders disconnected since I have purchased the car new in 2000, and other than pulling the parking brake up a notch or two- it caused the rear brakes to smell funny- I am at my wit's end! I called a couple of Subaru Dealers and they say they cannot disconnect the DRLs because they are hard wired. Last time I checked DRLs are NOT mandatory in the good old USA!!!
    I know there are at least 2 ways of dsiconnecting the DRLs, but I have not done it yet. Anybody out there who is mechanically inclined on how to disconnect the DRLs from 2000 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon? BTW, I had to have both headline bulbs repalce on 2 different occasions, costing me $47 total. Subaru should really think about the customer first!!! I also have a web link for those who HATE Daytime Running Lights:

    www.petitiononline.com/BANDRLs
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I tend to gripe more about Subaru quality than most people around here (or at least don't rave about it) since I have had several issues with my 98 Outback - poor idle, dash lights, alternator, wheel bearing, head gasket leak, piston slap (which is back again) but I don't recall many, if any, differential issues mentioned here. What were your symptoms?

    Karl
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    The dealer can't disable them because they are a safety device, much like how they can't disable the airbags or seatbelts.

    Toyota has 'em now, GM has been using them for years, Subaru has them on all models now too. There's probably a discussion on Edmunds where you can debate the pros/cons of them.

    There usually is a relay under the dash or in the engine area that controls the DRLs.

    FWIW, my 2000 Outback had 'em too and I never burned a bulb out in the 4 years I had the DRLs on. YMMV.

    -Brian
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    First failed diffy I've heard of in all my contact with suby owners.

    -mike
  • frogfrog Member Posts: 52
    In reply to base manual engine stumbling at 2000rpm, I believe it is suggested that you shift between 3000 and 3600 rpm's for the smoothest transitions.....
  • dougb10dougb10 Member Posts: 185
    I have been driving cars in Canada with DRL's since 1990. In all that time,(6 cars including our '97 Outback), we have never had a bulb burn out.
    I really believe that DRL's save lives. Even the drunk who comes down the road at 2AM at least has his DRL's on so you have a chance to get out of his way.
  • nematodenematode Member Posts: 448
    I'm another one of the complainers because out 2k Outback Ltd. has had tons of problems too but not with the differential.
  • sugardogsugardog Member Posts: 41
    Karl,

    This vehicle has been excellent, this is the first problem since purchase, never back to the dealer for anything except the recall for the brake master cylinder back in 99.
    Symptom was whining noise in the drive train when using power or coasting, take out of gear (manual tranny) and noise went away. I felt sure it was a u-joint. I was concerned that if it was a u-joint, it would NOT be covered by warranty, but it should since the u-joints are not servicable, must replace whole drive shaft which is balanced, this is moot because they determined the noise was the rear diff.
    Sam.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Don't want to start the debate, however I believe that as driving is a priveldge, people should take the responsibility to put their headlights on in conditions that need it. I'm sick of people not taking responsibility for their own actions.

    -mike
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    As someone who has his share of problems with my 2000 OBW, I have never heard of the rear diffy failing. My feelings towards a car having problems are that it is a vehicle that gets used everyday, so naturally things will happen. I also happen to have one of the earlier produced OB's, so that may expalin things. Overall though, I love my OB.

    As for DRL's, I take it one step further and just keep my headlights on whenever I am driving. This is even easier with the auto-off feature for the headlights. I had a problem at the beginning of this year when I had the bulbs go within a month of each other, but since switching to the European bulbs (that I beleive Ken was kind enough to tell me about) I have had no problems.

    Mark
  • djb63djb63 Member Posts: 11
    Well I now have 1100 miles on my 2004 LL Bean. I do have a major concern however.. The 4EAT transmission does not shift smoothly it clunks especially when shifting around 20MPH,none of the shift points (IMHO) are smooth. It's noticeable enough for my wife to say it doesn't sound or feel right (this is the woman who drove on a flat tire and didn't realize until the tire was flat that something was wrong). Also my 16 year old grandson who has only been driving a short time noticed it the first time he rode with me. The 4EAT transmission in my 95 Legacy LSi with over 92K miles shifts better that the new LL Bean.. Any suggestions..
    other than the transmission concern I am pleased with my new Subaru.
    DJB63
    p.s. Monday I am going to replace the break in oil with Mobil One.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Check the fluid level, and then take it back to the dealer if you think something is wrong. My 02 Bean shifts pretty smoothly. Subaru autos are not the best out there, but they should be shifting pretty smoothly most of the time.

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    rear diffy? No, not common. I just changed my rear diffy oil and it was still clear, at 63k miles. On my Miata is was clowsy at 30k miles!

    With the MT, you can check the gear oil level for the tranny, it's way, waaaaaay down behind the engine. It is bright yellow, at least. ATF is probably in a similar location.

    Call 800-SUBARU3 just in case to register a complaint, if it fails at 60,001 miles you should be safe.

    -juice
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    I believe that these transmissions have a learning mode and will tailor the shifting points to your driving habits. Combined with multiple drivers, and relatively low miles, it might not equalized itself yet. I am not sure how long this will take (juice, bob, mike?). I am the primary driver of a 99 GT with the 4EAT, and after 105k, I can tell exactly when it will shift, and how long it will hold the gear. When I drive my wife's 03 Outback, again 4EAT, it is another story. I never know when it will shift - typically, it downshifts unexpectedly when I get on the gas, then quickly shifts when I back off - and this is after almost 2 years. Rob M.
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    According to the owners manual and past experience all the doors(including the rear gate) should unlock when I use a key to open my drivers side door(not by remote control activation) Also in the past when unlocking via the lever on the inside drivers side door all the other doors would unlock as well, this too is not functioning properly. The mechanism works only periodically and less and less often. I have checked the fuse and it seems to be O.K. Any ideas on what might be causing this and how to remedy the situation. Being able to unlock all the doors at once is one of the conviences that I really appreciate and not being able to I find extremely annoying.
  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    The actuator in the driver's door is either bad or needs adjusted. The same thing happened with my '96. I took the door panel off and adjusted it once. That worked for a while but then it went back to being intermittent.

    DaveM
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If you want that tranny to start out with a "clean slate", reset the ECU. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, wait 20 minutes, reconnect, start it up and let it idle until warm.

    Who knows how it was delivered or test driven before you bought it, but clearly their habits may have been different than yours.

    -juice
  • djb63djb63 Member Posts: 11
    Juice,
    The car is shifting, It just doesn't shift smoothly. IMHO one should not have a thunk/clunk when shifting.All shift points should be seamless. Listening to the engine you should know when the shifting is occurring but you should not feel a thunk/clunk during shifting.
    Will re-setting the ECU effect the rough shifting??
    DJB
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    IMO it's worth a try.

    I would still at least register a "customer says" complaint with 800-SUBARU3 in case it becomes a problem in the future.

    -juice
  • djb63djb63 Member Posts: 11
    Juice,
    Thanks, for the input.. I have re-set the ECU (no discernable difference IMO) but I'll give it a few hundred miles to adjust to my driving style. For the next few hundred miles I will be the only driver and we will see what happens.. DJB
  • coyote1coyote1 Member Posts: 1
    cant park our new 04 outback ll bean for two days or the battery will go dead , been to the dealer three times, they can find no problem , they said have it towed in next time so we can see it in a discharged condition, sent it off this morning on a tow truck.. very frustrating , any suggestions ? thanks
  • 96pathfind96pathfind Member Posts: 22
    Help! Wife driving our '03 Legacy SE wagon yesterday, tire blew out on the highway. Here's the dilemma: we've got about 29,000 miles on the original Bridgestone Potenza RE 92s, by my measure they have approx 7 or 8/32 of tread left-look real good overall. New ones come with 10/32 of tread depth. By my measurements, there would be .19625" difference in circumference between the new one and the 3 remaining old ones. Am I OK to replace the blown one, or do I need to replace all 4??? I know I read that 1/4" difference is the cutoff, but I'd really hate to damage the drivetrain. Any ideas???
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You are within their tolerance, plus you have two open differentials. The tolerance Subaru states has to account for models with the viscous limited-slip diffy.

    So you should be fine.

    Having said that, 29k miles on an RE92 probably means they're far from being in their best condition, and they're not great tires to begin with. So I'd still consider a new set, anyway.

    -juice
  • 96pathfind96pathfind Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the advice. Helps to get some input from knowledgeable folks like yourself!
  • mjansen1mjansen1 Member Posts: 46
    OK, made it to 85K on our 2000 Outback with hassle free breaks, until now. Last summer we had the local cheap place put new pads on (rotors not re surfaced, I think). They have always squeaked but now they are squeaking even when I am not breaking. Are the calipers not releasing or breaking all by themselves? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    when you aren't braking usually means that they are worn out those are the squeelers to warn you to get new pads.

    -mike
  • questionerquestioner Member Posts: 11
    I was planning to flush the tranny on my 91 turbo Legacy recently because the tranny jerks when shifting at low gear around 10-20MPH. But the service consultant at local Subaru dealer suggests me to do a tranny service (drop oil pan and change filter) instead of a tranny flush because he thinks my Legacy is too old with 100K miles to have a tranny flush. While my tranny flush still looks pink and doesn't smell burnt(I had a tranny drain and refill 15 months ago). What's your guys opinion on this? Should I go with a flush or just a service?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had a flush on my trooper and had to go with the service cause the flush didn't work very well.

    -mike
  • questionerquestioner Member Posts: 11
    I was planning to flush the tranny on my 91 turbo Legacy recently because the tranny jerks when shifting at low gear around 10-20MPH. But the service consultant at local Subaru dealer suggests me to do a tranny service (drop oil pan and change filter) instead of a tranny flush because he thinks my Legacy is too old with 100K miles to have a tranny flush. While my tranny flush still looks pink and doesn't smell burnt(I had a tranny drain and refill 15 months ago). What's your guys opinion on this? Should I go with a flush or just a service?
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