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Comments
Call the dealer Service/Sales Manager to register your complaint and give them a shot at addressing the problem.
If your not happy, call 1-800-SUBARU3 and get a case started. One of our Reps. can call the dealer and make sure that all resources were used in trying to find a solution. Worse case scenerio (if something can't be duplicated) you've got the issue on record if there is a problem down the road.
If our telephone lines are backed up, just send us an e-mail via the "contact us" section of Subaru.com. Make sure you include your VIN, mileage, name of the dealer that you're working with and the name of the folks at the dealer you've contacted.
Thanks!
Patti
Ideally, you do want them matched as close as possible. Many better tire shops can shave your new tire to match the remaining set on your car.
Steve
They might have installed cheap pads, but I'm surprised they wore so quickly.
But...could be a pebble or something stuck between the pads.
-juice
Cheers!
Paul
I would think if you're going to change one, you'd also change the other?
Just curious
Larry
Craig
Remember the lady in Alaska?? who had this problem...finally traced to a Blaupunkt stereo or something that was drawing waaaay more than it should have,
Jim
Unless of curse it was installed as a local dealer option - I know sometimes they'll count that under some portion of the warranty.
Just curious
Larry
This is just a guess, but I would be willing to bet that the spin-on filter cartridge has multi-X more total surface area, and probably presents a big improvement in filtering capacity with lower flow restriction than the gauze filter I have seen in some pans. So by those standards, it becomes "life time" under normal conditions. Of course, if you cook the tranny, replace every drop of fluid you can - pan, torque converter & filter.
Steve
Greg
Patti
PS - To those asking about the the Alaska mess? It wasn't a warranty issue.FWIW
I checked with tire rack & they indicate that Brembo rotors are available. As for pads, they have a brand called Akebono Proact ceramic. Has anyone tried these or anyother brand which proves more reliable than what Subaru has to offer. I refuse to keep paying to have rotors cut every 16-18,000 miles. I did purchase a torque wrench, so hopefully over-torqued lug nuts will no longer be a concern.
Thanks all.
Bob
Craig
Dad's '94 Lincoln - 80k miles? - sold to uncle but I believe it's still on the original battery.
Brother's '98 Jeep GC - 102k miles - still on the original battery.
All in PA with -10 to 110 temperature extremes.
Of course, YMMV
DaveM
We sell th Akebonos for our street-only drivers at AZP Installs.
-mike
There are many, many potential causes for YMMV.
Jim
I got 4-5 years from my battery, mostly my fault for neglecting the fluid level. If it's 5 years or older you could have it load-tested for free at most retailers.
-juice
Although I am not a Subaru owner, but rather a regular contributor the the Toyota Avalon forum, I have experienced very similar problems with the Toyota Avalon. I also read the Honda Accord Forum and the new Accord has the same problems. Many opinions are my own but this is what I know from the facts that are presented to me.
1. Many of the OEM rotors the Japanese companies are using are inferior in their metalurgy. Basically, they contract out for cheaper parts and use them now. The metal is not the same as old, and since many of the cars, are front or all wheel drive, the heat cooks the rotors and warps them, especially on automatic transmissions.
2. I had major problems with Toyota and the local dealership with this, and went through multiple tire, wheel, and alignment changes, most at their expense but not all. Finally, I took the rotors off myself, and had them put on a brake lathe and such enough, one of the front rotors was severely warped, probably from the factory or whoever manufactured them and did not let them cool correctly. I had the problem since I got the car.
3. I have put on rotors, aftermarket, specially SP rotors drilled and slotted, both front and rear with new pads. I also changed the fluid and got speed bleeders to do it. Realize, I am an US Army officer who is lucky enough to have Auto Crafts shops with lifts at the bases so I can put the car up on the rack and sometimes if the mechanics are in a good mood, they help out.
4. I cannot recommend enough buying premium quality rotors and pads, and either doing it yourself correctly, or taking it to someone who has your trust and is very skilled to put them on, apply anti-squeal grease as needed on the back of the pads and grease the pins to the calipers, etc. You will notice a very big difference that the inferior quality stuff they give you when you buy the car.
5. The parts that you mention and the company is reputable. If you don't mind a little "woring" noise when the brake is applied, then I would recommend slotted and/or drilled rotors, otherwise plain rotors should do that are better metal. Premium pads will help grip better, slotted rotors help dissipate gas from the pad and water so you will notice a remarkable difference during wet weather braking. Chance the fluid, as per what the manufacturer reccomends every 3 years regardless of mileage. Never, turn the rotors, IMO, it is not worth it on the most important part of your car. I bought my last set from a company in Syracuse, called Raceshopper, but any company that carries premium products, such as Brembo, SP rotors, Powerslot, etc will be a vast improvement.
Good luck
"Feed your forum"
abfisch
Mike
Owen
-Brian
For 2005, the rotors are bigger still, better yet the cars got lighter.
We haven't had any issues with brakes with the 5 Subies in our family, though 2 are relatively new.
-juice
Just now found this Board so I hope you've contacted Subaru. I had the same thing happen ($1500 including timing belt) at 67,000 miles (I have a '98 GT wagon). I was outraged that this had to be done. Well enough stewing about it (several months) and I finally wrote to Subaru. Outstanding customer service. One more thing I am not the original owner. They paid me for almost the whole job (because I had it done at an independent) *and* I asked them to reimburse me for the second opinion I sought from a dealership - which they did. My reasoning being that it was far too expensive a job. Even if a dealership was going to do the work I would have taken it to another one for a second opinion.
The reason they didn't reimburse me for the whole amount: It would have taken fewer hours hours at a dealership. Of course it would have cost $500 more *and* they would have had my car for a week. Go figure. My shop did it in 3 days and saved me $500!
Can you give me an idea on cost? I live about 15 miles outside of Philadelphia & I don't know who to go to for the work . Don't want to use the chain stores like Pep-boys. Would I have to do all four wheels or would doing the front wheels be enough. One of the other posts suggested slotted rotors vs solid. What's your thoughts. Also, besides the pads & rotors are there any other componet parts that would need upgrading?
Thanks.
Bob
p.s thanks to abfisch for your comments.
-mike
-mike
Sorry if I don't sound sympathetic, but these kinds of problems could happen on any car that old, not just Subarus. As Mike said, it sounds like a wheel bearing.
Bob
Thanks Again,
ALGER1
Bob
I'm being sincere when I say good luck with your car.
Bob
-mike
Owen
Just wanted to let you know that I took my Outback to the local Subaru dealership today; the man that wrote down my info tried to tell me that I had some sort of transmission problem that is common to these cars (without even driving the car). When I showed resistance to his diagnosis, he said the tranny might just need a flush and fill. I told him that is possible, but I believe the wheel bearings are shot. He's supposed to call me after the mechanic does his diagnosis. I'll let you know!
Later,
Marty
Marty: at that mileage an ATF flush is probably a good idea, just know that it's not what's causing the noise you're complaining about.
In fact I might wait just to be sure the noise goes away after that single fix.
-juice
I agree that the tranny needs flushed, and that it will be done after, I'm sure that the repair was done to my satisfaction. Is there any other little or large problems that can be expected in the near or distant future? I hope not, this wasn't supposed to be a project car.
Thanks for the advice,
Marty
Bob
-mike
The alignment is a good idea, IMO.
Keep the oil fresh and just listen our for any unusual noises/vibes. Stick around and we'll help if any issues come up. Generally someone can.
-juice
The car is a really nice vehicle, it looks brand new inside and out. I guess thats why I was so upset that it needed the TLC that cost $$$. I plan to keep reading, but I must admit that I hope that the need to write never comes again.
Later,
Marty
-mike
-Marty
-mike
Definitely doesn't sound like anything related to the valve train
Makes a loud (I can hear from >20 feet away) clicking noise, definitely louder under load, but still seems to fade away after about 20 minutes. I'm going to go pick up a new stethescope this weekend.
Any ideas where's a good place for me to start to listen on the engine?
TIA
Larry
-juice
Actually I plan on leaving it for a couple of nights. The first one is for them to find it, the 2nd for me to be there in case they can't...
Larry