Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

andrewk · January 2005

Probably not a problem but wanted to check. I bought an '05 Outback just last weekend. As I went to skim through the manual, I noticed the cover said Legacy. Is this Legacy manual the correct manual for the Outback or did the dealer give me the wrong manual? I fully understand the overwhelming similarities, however if it were for both vehicles, I would have thought it to be labeled like Legacy/Outback. What do you think?

Thanks, Andy

zman3 · January 2005

I don't own an 05 so I can't say for certain but I would just read the manual, maybe the specs pages that list fluids and such and see if they list numbers for the Outback. If they're listed I would guess it's the correct manual.

Karl

jsun · January 2005

Thanks everyone for your thoughtful suggestions. Here's an update on my Legacy. I just got off the phone with the service dept. at the dealership. They've kept my car since Wednesday morning (Today is Friday) trying to duplicate the problem I was claiming to have experienced. They left the car outdoors overnight Wednesday night but was able to start it successfully Thursday morning and all day Thursday. They parked it outdoors again last night in below-freezing temperature, and this morning the car finally acted up as I described when they tried to start it. I guess if they did have the slightest doubt that it was an operator error on my part that had been causing the problem, they don't now I hope. A few guys pushed the Legacy into the shop. They were able to rule out a bad starter because they couldn't detect any voltage going into it. Unfortunately while they were in the middle of doing another test the symptom vanished again and the car has been starting fine since. I was told that there is not anything they could do until the Legacy acts up again, so now the car is back to the outdoor parking lot for another day of cold treatment. Knowing that this is a hard problem to crack, I've been very polite and patient with the dealership, but honestly I'm very very upset at this point because this is a brand new $34K (including taxes, fees, finance charges,etc..) vehicle that have quit on me twice within 14 days of purchase, not to mention that my wife has been on my case too since she wanted a Honda in the first place until I finally convinced her that Subaru is also very reliable. Oh well, I'll not elaborate any more on this domestic tension, but it really sucks. I'll keep you posted.

Jun

jsun · January 2005

"When u say "nothing happens", does that mean that the dash board, etc. does not light or anything?"

------------------------------------

Pauly, everything electrical in the cabin seem to work fine, including the dash board gauges and indicators.

thanks,

Jun

jsun · January 2005

Wes,

The problem you described seem to match mine right on. I could also hear a single click coming from the fuse box area next to the driver-side door hinge, then nothing more. Also your theory of a loose connection at the power input of the starter also seem to match my symptom as the dealer detected no power to the starter when the Legacy was acting up. The loose connection theory seem to partly explain why, on both occasions, after a jittery tow truck ride, the problem would mysteriously vanish. Thanks, I'll ask the dealer to check out your theory.

Jun

xwesx · January 2005

Well Jun, I love (er, I mean HATE, hehe) to be the devil's advocate. So, I just have to say that my perception of Subaru is that it is a great car EXCEPT for the quality and reliability of it's electrical system. The majority of annoyances I have with my car (and most all look to be rather common within the same M.Y.) are electrical in nature.

I doubt I will ever buy another Subaru, but that won't keep me from continuing to own, drive, enjoy, and hate the one I currently have. I love it more than I hate it, but I also did not pay 34K just to have my name put on the title.

Best of luck to you with the car and, more importantly, with the wife! They all have their quirks..... ;-D

-Wes-

ateixeira · January 2005

Really? I've never once had an electrical problem...

If you do, though, try the Single Point Ground mod, they even sell a kit for that now.

-juice

xwesx · January 2005

Well, there's electrical annoyances and then there are real problems. Most of mine are annoyances, but if the quality was there, the annoyance would not.

1. Power Door Locks

2. Dash Lights

3. Headlights (though the rest of the lights such as turn signals, tail lights, etc., are very reliable)

4. "Ghost" problem of not starting on which I have spend $100s for diagnosis to no avail: probably the reason I am the 4th owner (purchased it in 2000 @ 83K) and almost the reason why there would have been a 5th.

5. frequent sensor failures, usually at least 1 every 18 months or so.

I am sure some of it has to do with the extreme climate in which I live, but I grew up with Toyota family cars and just came to expect a certain level of basic reliability and the Subaru's electrical systems do not meet that expectation. But, I can drive my faulty car in circles around those Toyotas while they are mired in snow and slipping on ice, tow my pickup up my ice-covered driveway with full payloads (2000+ lbs), pull out big 4x4 trucks from the ditch with little effort, and the list goes on. That makes the car worth keeping, but not necessarily worth buying another one. One of the reasons I frequent this board is to track the types of general problems people report with their new Subaru wagons so I can keep my '96 M.Y. biases in perspective.

What is the Single Point Ground mod, juice?

-Wes-

sduford · January 2005

Yes it is the correct manual. It spells out the differences between the various models and options like sedan/wagon, GT, Outback, VDC, ACC, etc.

Sly

sapphireblue · January 2005

Thanks, all, for the replies. To answer the questions:

1.) I live in Baltimore, MD. Not sure if winter gas is in the pumps at this point or not.

2.) I normally drive about 16 miles each way to/from work. About a mile the Beltway (3 possible stoplights), about 10 miles on I-95 highway, and the remainder on city streets.

3.) On my first tank of gas, I was up closer to 26-27 MPG at the mid-pt., but it also involved a trip to/from DC at mostly high speed.

Is the salesman's advice (turning the gas cap 3-4 full turns vs. just a few clicks) the right way to go? Or is it unnecessary to create a proper seal? I'm willing to do all the extra "clicks" if it's worthwhile.

Also, is it normal for the first MPG measure (the "what you're doing right then") to vary pretty randomly...from like 14 to 25 to 44 and back down again? What causes the higher variations, esp. at relatively consistent speeds?

Thanks,

sb

kens · January 2005

Jun,

You've cleared the biggest hurdle of the dealer not seeing the same problem. Now the clock is ticking on their side to get the problem resolved in a timely manner.

While I'm not suggesting it as a course of action, most Lemon Laws provide a time limit (usually 30 days or more) of cumulative inoperation due to warranty work in the first year or so of ownership. Speak softly by carry that big stick in your back pocket.

I'd call Subaru and start a case just to make sure that you have all the attention you need on this matter. I'd be very frustrated too after having put down +$30K on a new car and having it in the shop for so long.

It sounds like you're being very patient which really goes a long way. I hope they find a solution soon.

Ken

kens · January 2005

sb,

I doubt the extra clicks have anything to do with gas milage. A loose gas cap will trigger a Check Engine Light, however. It's good practice to give the cap a couple of extra clicks. A few extra turns aren't necessary.

The fluctuations in the instantaneous MPG reading are normal. In this mode, the trip computer is taking small samples of your gas consumption compared to miles driven. Since miles covered will be relatively consistent, all of the variation you're seeing is coming from a sudden increase in fuel usage by touching the gas pedal. I typically don't use this mode since it really doesn't provide much useful information.

Ken

jfl · January 2005

instantaneous MPG

During long road trips in the Jeep, this "stock market" mode was my daughters' favorite mode. 8~)

Of course, the driver had total control of the market!

Jim

steine13 · January 2005

Learned Friends,

I looked at a '98 Outback Limited today. Nice specs; 124k, wagon, leather, sunroof, the works. Auto trans :-(

Otherwise smoked in and a bit of a rat, but OK for a bad-weather runabout.

The seller, who appeared knowledgeable and honest, said he'd had it for a year, and it may not have been treated all that well in its previous life. Makes noises on cold start. OK, I've graduated from the Audi school of cold starts long ago, so I let him fire it up.

Sure enough, the valves go clacklacklacklacklacklacklack, like you'd expect them to, then they quiet down fairly quickly. Somebody please tell me these engines have hydraulic lifters and that's what the problem is -- Yes?

But then I let it idle and with my hand on the block and the other hand on the throttle linkage (Put your HANDS on the television set and PRAY with me... sorry....) I carefully crack the throttle a bit. I hear a not very loud but very noticable TOCKOCKOCKOCKOCKOCK knocking sound, hard and metallic, with a "deep inside" quality. Going at crankshaft frequency, not camshaft frequency, as near as I can tell from listening. Did not feel it, though. What was it?

It's too bad; while not the nicest '98 you're likely to find, old Subies are hard to come by, and the asking price is a lousy $3,650... This would make a nice winter beater.

-Mathias

dcm61 · January 2005

Somebody please tell me these engines have hydraulic lifters and that's what the problem is -- Yes?

Nope, they have solid lifters. Only the '96 2.5 had hydraulic lifters. The initial lifter noise is normal for the Subaru boxer.

I hear a not very loud but very noticable TOCKOCKOCKOCKOCKOCK knocking sound, hard and metallic, with a "deep inside" quality.

The noise is probably piston slap. Some of the 2.5's experience this. Per SOA, unless the noise lasts beyond warm-up, it is "normal" and supposedly does not affect engine longevity.

Will the seller allow you to have it checked out by a mechanic?

DaveM

ebony5 · January 2005

I have '96 2.5 AT OBW(75000 miles) -What is the difference between solid and hydraulic lifters? I think the vehicle has what is known as piston slap(a kind of pronounced ticking sound) but it does not seem to affect the car's performance. Would it affect the performance or only the life and health of the engine? From what I read in these forums it is not unique but I think it does not go away completely after the car is warm. How do I determine if the condition should be of concern and what should be done? The car is in good condition, I take excellent care of it and would like it to last a good bit longer. I drive about 10,000-12,000 miles a year. Thanks

dcm61 · January 2005

What is the difference between solid and hydraulic lifters?

In simple terms, solid lifters must be adjusted manually and hydraulic lifters are self adjusting. I'm not sure what the benefits of one over the other is.

I think the vehicle has what is known as piston slap(a kind of pronounced ticking sound) but it does not seem to affect the car's performance.

I don't think the '96 2.5 has the piston slap issue. Subaru redesigned the engine for MY97 using shorter piston skirts and supposedly that is the cause of piston slap.

DaveM

rob_m · January 2005

Definitely piston slap.

My old 96 Outback never made the noise.

My 99 GT sedan with 117k gets louder as the temperature gets colder, and completely disappears within 3-5 minutes of warmup. I have had no problems with this car and drive it 90 miles a day.

FWIW, my 03 Outback also makes the noise. The salesperson told us about the typical non-destructive engine knock the day we purchased the vehicle.

I would not be overly concerned. Rob M.

jsun · January 2005

Thanks everyone for your advice. Actually, I have been reading up on the Utah Lemon Law myself ever since the second the time my Legacy was towed. I've kept all tow and service records just in case but I plan to exercise the Lemon Law only as a last resort. Here is an update on my Legacy - the dealer claimed they had replaced the start relay to see if that will solve the problem although they weren't sure if the start relay was the root of the problem. They said this was all they could do at this time until the car acts up again at which time they could try replacing the ignition switch. I did pick up my car yesterday (Saturday) and it has been starting fine since then but it has been relatively warm since Friday. I'm actually waiting for a bad winter storm or a major temperature drop to see if the dealer "fix" would pass the real test. I will call Subaru to set up a case with them on Monday. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted.

Jun

kens · January 2005

Sounds like piston slap to me too. My 98 Forester did it and it was repaired under warranty by replacing the pistons. The district technical manager told me that the sound isn't destructive, but I just didn't like the sound when the weather and engine were cold.

The Phase I 2.5L DOHC engines are especially noisy at startup due to the solid lifters. These are adjusted by shims and therefore they create quite a racket when first started cold. Also, due to the boxer engine layout, an H4 has twice as many camshafts as an inline 4.

Hydraulic lifters are quieter since they don't use shims to adjust the spacing. However, I've read that there is a performance limit to hydraulic lifters and may be the reason why Subaru used solid lifters in this case.

The Phase II motor got rid of the lifters so they are noticeably quieter at first start up.

Ken

dcm61 · January 2005

The Phase II motor got rid of the lifters so they are noticeably quieter at first start up.

Well in that case, my Phase II motor runs very well for not having lifters. :-)

I think you meant to say they went from DOHC to SOHC.

IIRC, the later Phase I and all Phase II have screw type (vs. shim) adjustable solid lifters.

DaveM

stantont · January 2005

Well, after lusting after an '05 Legacy GT wagon for a few months, I came across an '02 Legacy L MT wagon with 57k miles, in good condition. I drove it, it felt great, and bought it for $8500. It needs tires, so I just ordered a set of Bridgestone LS-H's from Tire Rack. Any other advice/suggestions for a Subie Newbie?

BTW, for those of you who saw my questions on the '05 Legacy board about whether the non-turbo had adequate power: what a difference driving a well-broken-in car makes! I was reluctant to rev up a car with 15-40 miles on the odo, so I couldn't tell how much pep the new ones really had; this one at 57k miles was a revelation. Not an LGT, but not too shabby!

In turns it leans more than my '01 Accord with stiffer rear sway bar, but driving through twisty roads in the Texas Hill Country, I found myself going faster in the Subie, with no apparent effort. Its quiet and smooth on bumps, and leans a bit, so you don't realize how fast you are going until you look at the speedo. Deceptively fast car!

garandman · January 2005

Here are some experiences based on owning two 98 OBW's, one we sold with 87K and we still have the other, 152K.

- The Subaru engine is alloy. Valves and camshafts are steel. Subaru engines are louder at start - especially the solid lifter models - than inline fours. They are also rougher at idle. But they are relatively smooth at highway speeds. TANSTAAFL.

- Solid lifters are typically more efficient. Switching to Castrol High Mileage oil will make an amazing difference in cold start noise.

- Electrical problems are not typical of the late 90's Subarus. I did have to replace the door switch for the interior light last week. And there was a recall on alternators.

- One problem that has manifested itself with these engines is headgasket problems, usually over 100,000 miles. First manifestations are brief overheating episodes or bubbles and combustion by-products in the coolant overflow. If one "blows" they might need to be replaced (about $1,200) or you could fry the whole engine. I replaced mine at 140K as a preventative measure, since I drive hard. At that mileage, you could still seen the hone marks in the cylinder bores.

But, I can drive my faulty car in circles around those Toyotas while they are mired in snow and slipping on ice, tow my pickup up my ice-covered driveway with full payloads (2000+ lbs), pull out big 4x4 trucks from the ditch with little effort, and the list goes on.

Good for the poster, but the rest of us should not forget that the Subaru Legacy series cars do not have low range (in the U.S.); most do not have a rear limited slip differential; none have locking center differentials; and in fact if you get an OB stuck in a drift so that one of the front wheels is off the ground, you'll be completely immobilized. My Honda Accord with Nokian snow tires stops better and turns better than the Subaru with all-season M&S rated tires. AWD is not invincible.

Subarus have excellent traction on slippery roads. They sometimes do better on icy, very rough or twisty roads than 4WD trucks, because those trucks have beam axles and the wheels are bounced off the ground. They are also very good on dirt roads, one of the reasons why they are so popular in places like Vermont with a lot of dirt roads.

Subarus are also very reliable, handle well, and get respectable mpg for an AWD vehicle. There are few persistanc problems but always cars that are unlucky or poorly maintained. Expect to pay a mpg and maintenance penalty for any AWD vehicle and you will be much happier. There are at least three Subaru only websites with more information.

hypov · January 2005

There is a particular fuse, a fuseable link. Don't know if it is in use for later MYs.

I had a problem with my '98 OB where there was a hairline fracture in that fuseable link. The fracture is enough to maintain contact to go unnoticed until jolted or contracts [cold], then the car won't start. In this case, most of your electricals will appear to be in order.

-Dave

fibber2 · January 2005

Dave,

It might be splitting hairs, but technically the current design doesn't have a 'lifter' in the conventional sense. One end of the rocker has a roller that rides the cam. The other has a screw adjuster that acts directly on the valve. There is no interface (the lifter) on either side.

Steve

xwesx · January 2005

I doubt it is a reason for concern. Mine makes similar sounds (based on what you described, but I could not say for sure unless I actually heard yours!), it has made these sounds since I purchased nearly 5 years ago, and it has over 100,000 miles more than yours, so I think you should be okay for that "while longer" assuming you continue to maintain it!

-Wes-

ateixeira · January 2005

Single-point ground - try a Google search with Subaru in there for good measure. A kit is sold that does this now.

Basically they find one nice grounding point in the engine bay and connect many electrical devices with a ground wire directly to that location. It's supposed to clear up issues like the ones above.

You can also search on that other board.

-juice

c_hunter · January 2005

Sounds like a great deal!!

I had an 00 with 5-speed (Outback actually) and it was fun to drive with plenty of power. I wasn't as thrilled with the auto trans, but with manual the engine is quite peppy.

Craig

xwesx · January 2005

I am not convinced that electrical problems are not typical, though I am sure that a few of the ones I experience are isolated and can be classified under the "unlucky" category. The door lock and dash light unreliability problems are not among those.

Good for the poster, but the rest of us should not forget that the Subaru Legacy series cars do not have low range (in the U.S.); most do not have a rear limited slip differential; none have locking center differentials; and in fact if you get an OB stuck in a drift so that one of the front wheels is off the ground, you'll be completely immobilized. My Honda Accord with Nokian snow tires stops better and turns better than the Subaru with all-season M&S rated tires. AWD is not invincible.

Please note that I am certainly not recommending that folks tow heavy loads even moderately short distances, but 150 feet up my driveway towing my truck has generated zero problems; it just gives the ol' girl enough extra umph to overcome her 2wd-slippery-working-tires woes. Tire chains might resolve the problem as well, but I don't think that 1-2 occurences per year warrants them.

Also, what use is low range for pulling out stuck rigs? The mere weight differential between a Subaru Legacy (series) and most of the vehicles you'll be recovering negates the practicality of trying a straight pull. Get yourself a nylon recovery strap and give a quick yank - I works wonders!

No, AWD is not invincible, but it can mean the difference between parking the car at home at night and going for a walk to get home. We just had 14" of accumulation last week and that was about the limit of what my '96 could handle (it was not without a little worry); again, tire chains would certainly have helped. It's all about learning the limits of your car and knowing your own limits.

As garandman pointed out, though, taking weight off the front tires of the vehicle is the quickest way to get a Subaru stuck. To get it unstuck, don't bother with clearing snow in front or behind the tires: just knock down the snow under the engine and front seating area and you'll be up and running - don't bother with the rear unless you're really mired.

kens · January 2005

Dave,

Not sure if we're talking about the same thing. The Phase II engine uses a rocker-roller assembly rather than a shim-bucket style in the Phase I.

Colin knows a lot more about this stuff than I do, and I do recall him explaining that the Phase II engine does not use lifters.

Anyway here's some technical back up:

http://www.cobbtuning.com/tech/sohc/

Ken

smoky1 · January 2005

>>Finally, all my cars will make rubbing noise if they have been outside for any length of time in damp/wet weather and the brake rotors get a film of rust.

Maybe I should rephrase the question then. Our Outback's brakes make a rubbing noise whenever the brakes are cold. (After say a couple of hours in the cold). Especially noticeable in reverse. I'm not used to hearing the brakes make a noise on any other car (except in situations you describe where rust has had a chance to develop.)

Even this car did not used to make this rubbing noise. for the first 7000 miles. It is not a loud noise at all. You must have the radio off, and it can't be in noisy traffic etc.

It disappears completely after the brakes have "warmed up".

Anyone else notice that??

dcm61 · January 2005

<Emily Litella> Nevermind </Emily Litella>

Thanks for setting me straight.

DaveM

robertw1 · January 2005

When I picked up my 2001 Outback after a routine maintainance, the car would buck and jerk on sharp turns. The car was not drivable and the dealer has had the car going on 3 weeks and cannot solve the problem. Any thoughts?

edunnett · January 2005

What was the routine maintanance that they did? How many miles on the car? Is it a manual or automatic transmission? Did the problem start immediately upon pickup? What speed does it occur at? Is it intermittant or does it happen with every turn? Any noise or other behavior associated with this?

Elissa

KCRam · January 2005

Having driven part-time 4x4s (full size pickups) for the last 15 years, I'd wager a guess that the transfer case has locked up somehow - the bucking and jerking is usually from the inability to not differentiate axle speed when in all/four wheel drive while turning.

kcram

Host - Wagons

andrewk · January 2005

We have an '03 Legacy SE wagon with the 5 speed and love it. You described exactly how our's handles. Very recently, I purchased an '05 2.5i OBW with the 5 speed also. I think both provide more than adequate power. I think if it were an AT and I had a load in it, it would be much different. Congrats on your deal!

jnm · January 2005

I have a 04 Outback 2.5i H4 with 23.000Km and it very much burns oil (I use 5-40 oil): 1 litre every 4.000-5.000 Km since the first day. First, with the burn-in oil, it burns 1 liter with the first 1.500 Km, then the subaru-dealer changes the oil and it "only" burns 1 l. every 4.000 Km. I found more Outbak's owners with the same issue.

I hear that is a problem with this 04-engines and in some countries (like Australia) they was replaced many engines by this issue (I see that in www.talkaboutautos.com).

Something hear this?

Are there more outbak's owners with this issue? and with this issue repaired?

jnm

robertw1 · January 2005

It was a routine tune up. Problem began on backing out of the dealership. The car has 42,000 miles.

xwesx · January 2005

I know this sounds stupid.... but perhaps they neglected to fill a differential or the transfer case with fluid after draining it? I doubt it was by chance that this started immediately after the "tune up."

kens · January 2005

First, with the burn-in oil, it burns 1 liter with the first 1.500 Km

Would you explain what you mean by the "burn-in" oil? Are you filling your own oil and then later going to the dealer for a top-off?

Here in the US, Subaru won't address oil consumption less than 1qt/1000 miles as an issue. It sounds like you're just borderline. Normally, a dealer would do a leak test where they will monitor the oil consumption over a given period of time. Your engine is filled by the dealer and the drain plug is marked.

Have you tried using different grades of oil? Sometimes some brands of oil have slightly higher or lower viscosities for their rating and affect consumption. For example, Mobil 1 5W30 is on the very low side of a 30 weight oil. Some people have noted higher consumption when using this oil.

Ken

ateixeira · January 2005

jnm: any coolant mixed with the oil? Or vice-versa? That's what would give me concerns.

-juice

jnm · January 2005

Sorry for my bad english, Ken

I would explain: First, with the break-in oil, this engine consumes 1 litre in my first 1500Km, I not filled any oil and I go to the dealer and him was changed the oil saying that "this break-in oil are more thin for my country"

The dealer use the Subaru recomended oil in my country: CEPSA MegaSyntetic 5W40

I think if in normal driving (3.000 rpm) this engine consumes 1 litre every 4.000 Km, then in racing driving (5.000 rpm) this engine can consume more oil than petrol !

Do you know if all the 2004-Outback's 2.5i (H-4) consumes oil ? I found some references by this issue :

http://www.apro.org/04_Outback_2_5_engine_Oil_problem-2005925-378- -a.html

--------------------------------------------------

THEY SAYS: I've spoken to Subaru here is Australia and to my surprise they have replaced multiple engines under warranty because of this issue. The pamphlet I spoke of, in the first line actually says:

"Refinement of modern engines can lead people into a false sense of security that fluid levels, particularly oil, do not need checking. In fact they do."

--------------------------------------------------

I don't know if this is a fake but I made 800.000 Km with some cars and I never own a new car with this oil consomation, this is normal in a 300.000Km car. They are Subarus the worse cars in the world?

jnm

jnm · January 2005

Hi -juice,

I check the coolant and it not seems mixed with the oil, the coolant level is OK.

I see too in a subaru forum a head gasket problem in some 2004 outback 2.5i. I thing that my outback hasn't this problem, but I chek that in the dealer house

jnm

kens · January 2005

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't know that Subaru used break-in oil in Australia. We've asked repeated times here in the US and are told that the cars come with regular oil from the factory.

With regards to the oil consumption, I don't know what else I can add. How did you break in your car? Sometimes not following the recommended break-in procedure can result in poor piston ring seating leading to exessive blow-by.

Also, some oil consumption is not necessarily a symptom of a bigger underlying problem. All engines consume some amount of oil normally. As long as you are not fouling PVC lines and have full compression, you probably are okay.

Ken

stantont · January 2005

Hey, Craig and/or some of you more-experienced Subie owners: my new (to me) Legacy wagon needs new brake pads, F and R. Is there anything unusual I should be aware of? I presume I just retract the piston by forcing it back into the caliper, remove a screw or two to let the caliper swing out to one side, and replace pads using the proper cushions or backing plates in the kit, then swing the caliper back into place and re-install screws or pins or whatever.

Any quirks or unusual requirements? Thanks!

Stanton

kens · January 2005

I've never tried it myself, but it is apparently straightforward.

I can't post a link, but a website by the name of Scoobymods has lots of illustrations.

Ken

dcm61 · January 2005

Pad replacement is as you described - very simple.

DaveM

c_hunter · January 2005

I haven't done a brake job on a Subaru yet, but I agree with Dave, it is fairly routine from what I hear.

Craig

stantont · January 2005

Thanks, all! I'll do the pads tomorrow.

BTW, I put the Bridgestone Turanza LS-H's on yesterday, and transformed the car. Of course, what was on the car before would not be hard to beat: original RE92's on the back (at 57,000 miles!), and a new-ish pair of cheap junkers on the front. Those tires growled like mud tires. The LS-H's are dead silent - sort of like a new Camry or Lexus, but with Subie's precise steering and quick cornering response. The ride is also very good. I haven't had any rain here yet (central Texas), but based on the wet performance of the LS's under my Accord, I expect to be awestruck.

The LS's have a bit more rolling resistance than some; on the Accord I lost about 2 mpg with them until I bumped the tire pressure about 5 psi above the stock 30 psi, then returned to normal mileage. I'm running the new LS's at 36 front, 34 rear on the Legacy (4 psi above standard). We'll see how mileage goes.

jfl · January 2005

I've done it and it is very straight forward. Check the website Kens mentioned for a very thorough description.

If you decide to bleed the brakes, Subaru's recommended sequence is FR > RL > FL > RR. A bit different from what I'm used to doing but easy to do as well.

Jim

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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