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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

19798100102103170

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    xwesx: at 190k, all bets are off. That's more mileage than most cars reach by the end of their lives. I'd donate it and take a tax deduction if you can't resolve it easily.

    sonnysayshi: all things equal, a turbo is working harder. But all things are not equal - in this case the block is a semi-closed deck design, the pistons are forged, and an injector cools the bottom of the pistons, even the exhaust valves are sodium-filled to resist heat better.

    Subaru engineered this engine to last, and so far the 2.5l turbos have been reliable.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    True enough, but I'm going to get another 40K out of this puppy as our main transport, darn it. I would just rather not start digging into the dash blindly if someone else has some wisdom to donate to the cause! :D

    I wouldn't care if it had a heater or not if it was just me using it as a commuter, but I have a wife and 1.2 year old child that need to use it as well. The last thing I want to do is invest in another vehicle right now and it is not to the point that I have decided a new rig is the best route. :sick:

    I'll stick out a couple more weeks and then start digging at it if no good info turns up. Maybe I shouldn't have given my car's stats at the top of that post..... sticker shock! :surprise:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I think it really depends on the time horizon you're talking about. For most people who would sell a vehicle before 150K miles, I'd say that the 2.5 turbo on the Legacy GT/OBXT would probably do as good as a non turbo. It's been designed with some beefed up components as juice mentioned, similar to the higher powered engine used in the WRX STi. If anything, owner usage and care patterns would probably dictate the reliability of an engine up to this point.

    Beyond that, however, I would think a turbocharged or supercharged engine might be more prone to problems. Forced induction motors generally work harder (ie. more heat and pressure) and have more moving parts than a non-turbo so it would be short-sighted to say that the risk of failure were the same.

    Subaru has been manufacturing turbo engines for quite some time now and I don't think they would make the 2.5 turbo a workhorse engine if they weren't comfortable about it's reliability.

    Ken
  • rstarkrstark Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in purchasing a 97 legacy GT the car has 168K miles. but when I test drove it both the check engine light and the airbag lights were illuminated. What could be the cause of the "Airbag" light being on? perhaps more important does anyone know generally the cost to get it repaired?
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    On my 2002 Legacy wagon, it seems the rear of the car is underdamped compared to the front. That is, on sharp humps taken at speed, the rear of the car rebounds with a little "hop" that the front does not. Since I bought the car in December 2004 with 57,000 miles on it (got 67,000 now), I don't know what the shocks were like when new. Would some of you more-experienced Subie owners care to comment on the firmness of Subie struts? If I thought the struts were getting worn, I'd replace them (the rears, at least); but if Subie's tended to ride a bit like this all the time, I wouldn't bother, expecting that new struts wouldn't make much difference.

    This is not a major issue; in normal driving, the car rides just fine. But on a rolling, twisty hill road, the rear does seem a bit indecisive. The problem might even be in only one rear strut, as the hop doesn't feel quite symmetric. But bouncing on one side of the rear bumper or the other doesn't give any hint of a problem; it only shows up at speed. And neither strut shows any sign of leakage, etc.

    Any advice? Thanks!

    Stanton
  • mikenvannamikenvanna Member Posts: 3
    I am new to the forum and have been searching for a solution to my sticking clutch problem. There is no slipping of gears or hesitation, but for the past six months or so, the clutch sticks near the floor and pops up after a few seconds of delay. This happens about two or three times and then goes away, only to reurn again in a few weeks. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,

    Venessa
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Stanton,

    I'm assuming your rear tire pressures are set to factory recommendations?

    Jim
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Check here: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ClutchInfoWin04.pdf

    You can price the parts at: 1stsubaruparts.com

    I'm trying to decide whether to repair it myself or use subie bucks to cover the labor too.

    Jim
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Stanton,

    It is quite possible that the previous owner carried heavy loads in the rear on a regular basis, and the rear struts are simply wearing out.

    It wasn't all that long ago that people replaced struts/shocks every 25k miles. With the advent of gas to control cavitation and better seal materials, we don't notice the loss of control quite as quickly. But I bet most of us with middle aged cars would be quite amazed at the difference a new set would make.

    You cannot generate enough rapid force trying to bounce on a corner to notice much of a difference, unless they are really shot - as in almost dead. It doesn't take a lot of dampening to quell the oscillation you can generate by hand. It is things like speed bumps that exercise them sufficiently to notice.

    If you are handy and have access to a spring compressor, it can be a do-it-yourself job, or farm it out to a shop. Either way, it sounds like the place to start.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd get new rear shocks, sound like they are not dampening like they should. Especially if the rear behaves differently than the front.

    My Miata needs a set. It bobs up and down a couple of times on undulations.

    -juice
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Could there be a leaf or twig in the air duct/fan? With possible damper movement switching from AC to HEAT such an obstruction to fan rotation could change position. Your description of the noise could be either such a "leaf" or fan motor bearings. Fan motor bearings can sometimes be temporarily resurrected with motor disassembly, shaft polishing and WD40. ( I have done this on boiler inshot draft motors.) Even if this works, it is NOT permanent. The procedure is for plain, not ball bearings.
  • sonnysayshisonnysayshi Member Posts: 11
    Thanks, very helpful. I know little about the technology of cars, and I will look for a performer in the next couple of years. I had planned to put the Legacy GT on the short list. It seems to offer so much for the money -- reliability from the turbo engine seems like the only question.
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Steve, Juice,

    Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I've got spring compressors, so I'll redo struts some time this fall after it cools off a bit. My previous experience tells me that if I replace the rears only, then the fronts will suddenly feel too soft, and I'll have to do them as well. But I've got no desire to work on the car any more than necessary (esp. when the temp is over 90 degrees), so I'll order them two at a time.

    Stanton
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Plus you'll be able to measure the change in the feel of the rear by itself.

    And if it settles down nicely you may not even need to do the fronts.

    -juice
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Yup, and rears are cheaper also. On a Subaru parts website the rears are $70 each, while the fronts are about $112 each. I'll check locally before I order, but I imagine my local dealer will be pricier than that.

    BTW, has anyone tried using Dynamat in a Legacy? The car is pretty quiet, but it would be nice if it were even quieter yet. I'm thinking about ordering the Extreme 36 sq foot set for about $90 (plus shipping) on eBay. It would cover all four doors plus the wagon "trunk" floor and probably the tailgate. Their website shows pretty impressive sound reduction, but the specific example they show is a Sentra, not an especially quiet car to begin with, so improvements are pretty easy. Subaru uses some dynamat-equivalent stuff around the car as it is, so I'm not sure if there is much to be gained. Do/did the upscale models use more sound stuff than my L model?

    Stanton
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They used more in the H6 models, I believe.

    You'll probably get subtle improvements. I'd do the firewall first.

    -juice
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Yeah, the road noise is already pretty low, though I think it can be improved. Dynamat says in order of diminishing improvement to: start with the doors, then the trunk floor, then the cabin floor, then the hood. But since the engine hum is audible at speed, I think I'll do the easiest stuff first. I'll start with the underside of the hood (remove the stock pad, then put it back on over the Dynamat), then as much firewall as I can reach, then the trunk floor (because it is over the rear muffler), then the lower part of the tailgate, and last the doors. If I have a square foot or so left, I may lift the carpet and stick a piece to the floor under the subwoofer. The Extreme Dynamat is only about 1.5mm thick, so it should have no effect on how things fit back into place.

    The shop manual says to use a "clip removal tool" to remove the door upholstery clips. What is that? Other cars I worked on you just pulled/pried off the inner panel after removing the 2-3 screws that held on the armrest, etc. The clips were basically just barbed pieces of plastic or metal that pushed into holes in the inner door skin. A blunt table knife worked pretty well. Does Subie use something different? And is there a better (i.e., safer) way to remove them?

    Finally (for now!) is the inner door gasket part of the upholstery panel, or separate? I would expect it to be separate, but the manual doesn't show enough detail to tell.

    Lots of questions. Thanks for your patience!

    Stanton
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would try to Google the tool you are talking about.

    I've had to replace a couple of clips, not on the interior, but holding things like the engine covers and grille on.

    -juice
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Thanks, I'll try that.

    Stanton
  • darandalldarandall Member Posts: 57
    Hi Mark -sorry for the delay in posting. I've fallen way behind! The gasket replacement did indeed cure the overheating problem - we have had no problems since, other than the CEL and the dealer telling us we need to replace the catalytic converter which is NOT covered by the extended warranty I purchased. My daughter has learned to live with that, although at some point we will need to replace it. How warm is warm? we get 90+ from time to time here in the Boston area, but have had no problems with overheating even when using the AC. Good luck!
  • mikenvannamikenvanna Member Posts: 3
    Jim,

    What are subie bucks? Do you think it will be easy to repair? My husband is pretty handy, but does not have a lot of time. Anyway, I was wondering if you had heard that the problem might be with a groove being worn on the quill?. I did some more research and found a company that makes a stainless steel sleeve to go over the housing to prevent anything from wearing on the housing directly - http://www.pdm-csrk.com/. Apparently they have parts on subaru.com, but I haven't been able to locate it. Any thoughts?

    Venessa
  • robotb9robotb9 Member Posts: 82
    I hope you guys can stand yet another AWD binding question. I have a 96 Outback wagon, auto transmission, with 103,000 miles. When I go around sharp corners (e.g., in parking lots, turning into my driveway) on dry pavement, I get a binding, clunking experience that feels as if the central diff has locked. I did some searching through the forums and became concerned that I was going to be looking at AWD clutch pack replacement (hence a couple of clumsy questions I posted a few days ago). Having just bought a B9 Tribeca, I want to get the Outback into reasonable shape to sell without pumping too much money into it. I have not yet taken it in to a mechanic.

    Anyway, while researching the problem I found some Subaru tech info that suggested measuring the tire circumference -- a difference of 1/4" could cause the problem I'm having. I measured them tonight (all at 32 psi) and found that the left rear was 83 1/8", while the other three were 82 7/8" (!). So, maybe I'm onto something. The tires are Michelin XW4s with about 46,000 miles. Tread wear looks even on all four. I tried dropping the pressure in the left rear to 20 psi and drove it around the neighborhood a bit. It seemed to help, though I couldn't be sure.

    So if you're still reading this, does the above make sense? I could buy a new set of inexpensive tires (the Michelins probably need replacing within the next 15,000 miles anyway) and see if the problem goes away. Or I could take it to my Subaru dealer, tell them the whole tale, and see what they can find. My concern is that diagnosing the problem could involve quite a bit of labor taking the tranny apart. What do you think?
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Subaru bucks are a 3% credit from the Subaru Chase credit card. It comes as $100 coupons good towards parts, service, or a Subaru car. I think the max you can earn in per year is $500.

    I haven't looked into what's involved in doing the repair mentioned on endwrench.com.

    I'd look at the quill for grooving before considering that repair. It would be nice to understand the specific cause of the sticking clutch pedal.

    Jim
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    Sounds like a Clutch Slave Cylinder failure. The clutch on subarus is hydraulic and the bit near the transmission evetually wears out. This manifests itself as the clutch pedal randomly sticking as you take your foot off it.

    Cots here in Australia is about USD200 for a repair. It's worth getting a Subaru Specialist to work on this as its one of those jobs, easy for an expert but a pain for someone without the proper toos etc.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    Hi sooby1!

    My 99 Outback Legacy Wagon started doing the exact same thing very early this year (overheating randomly, coolant backing up into reservoir). After 3 mechanics, a change in radiator, plugs, thermostat, etc, they opened her up looking for a head gasket and found a tiny hairline crack in a cylinder.

    After speaking with a parts guy at a Subaru dealership, the 1996-1999 dual overhead cam motors all have problems with overheating. In fact, he told me I wouldn't have much luck looking for a used engine because everyone in the world has sort of used them up replacing engines just like mine. He stressed that the 2000 (onward) engines were changed by the manufacturer because Subaru had no idea what was causing the overheating and probably didn't want to take the risk of a major recall.

    A mechanic I used to date has advised us to find an attorney and to contact Subaru HQ directly (they deny everything of course). Thus, I pass that information on to you.

    Good luck!

    PS: If anyone else has had this problem, I would like hearing from you. It's taken us almost 5 months to figure this all out!


    I wrote Subaru a letter after replacing the head gaskets on my 1997 at 140K miles (before there was a major failure) telling them I didn't like the fact that they officially were denying any problem with the 96-99 engines while all the mechanics and service managers are well aware of it. Toyota fessed up to their head gasket problems, and even Ford replaced a ton of 3.8l engines at little or no charge for overheating problems. Subaru offered me a $1,000 discount on a new Subaru within six months, but I didn't take them up after driving the 05's. My '97 has 161K miles now and I think the new gaskets will hold up through next winter, which is what I'm looking for.

    If you go to Subaru enthusiast sites like UltimateSubaru, you will find many threads reporting head gasket problems. At one point a guy had a registry of cars with head gasket problems, but ut's gone off-line and my suspicion is he settled with someone and shut it down.

    By contrast, reports of problems with headgaskets here seem under-reported. Some owner forums here are rant-fests, while others are feel-good.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I had to to this on my Miata, wasn't too hard.

    In fact I got a rebuild kit for under $11, and some brake fluid, and bled the system myself.

    It's about as hard as doing a brake job.

    -juice
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Re. the fan motor, the sound like spokes in a bicycle wheel made me wonder: have you looked at the possibility of some sort of debris blocking the fan? We have lots of trees in our yard, and spring and fall we get tons of leaves on the car's cabin air intake. We occasionally used to get a leaf or twig come all the way through to the interior air vents and blow into our faces (different cars - the Subie air filter would catch them now).

    Just a thought. After 190k miles, there could be all sorts of stuff in there, and the effect might be intermittent. A leaf wouldn't stop the fan motor, but a twig certainly could. If you pull the glove box, can you get a hand in to spin the blower and see if it is free?

    My point is that an intermittent problem can be hard to find, and I would not go into it assuming the problem is electrical.

    Stanton
  • ozman62ozman62 Member Posts: 229
    Actually, Scott McGerick's weblog is still up and running, and still getting new cases logged. It makes for some interesting (and worrisome) reading. FWIW, my '98 Forester is at 155K km (~95K miles) and no signs of cooling or headgasket problems. I hope I didn't just jinx myself ;)

    Scott's Weblog

    Regards, Owen
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
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  • doug900doug900 Member Posts: 7
    My wife has a 99 Subaru Legacy L wagon, which is displaying the cursed Check engine light. We had the codes pulled, and found 3 problems...faulty knock sensor,Front O2 sensor with a slow response time, and rear O2 sensor pre-heater failure. I replaced both sensors with Walker brand 4 wire universal sensors (this car happens to have 4 wire O2 sensors on front and back of catalyst, unlike many of that year, that had a 3 wire and a 4 wire sensor). Also, I replaced the knock sensor.
    We were told by a Subaru dealer, and a tire distributor that does inspections, that we would have to drive the car 70 to 100 miles for the ECU to reset the Check engine light, after repairs are made of course, which makes sense to me, since the OBD II ecu needs to take averages that fall within a pre-determined specifacation for emissions. Problem is, it won't turn off, after 100 miles of long drives. Any ideas anybody? Before I changed the sensors, or knock sensor, I disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes, which reset the computer, for about 5 to 7 miles. That was before we had the codes pulled.

    Now, disconnecting the battery doesn't do anything for the light. It comes right on upon starting, and stays on steady, as always. Very frustated! Doug Brown
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    ODBII will not turn off the light if the condition (or some condition) still exists. So, you might need to check some wires or at least the code that it's throwing to figure out what next to check.

    Most OBDII scanners can clear the codes, my OBD-2.com one does.

    -Brian
  • doug900doug900 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks Brian, but the only 3 codes that came up, front and rear O2 sensor, and knock sensor, I replaced, within the last week. could these be codes that have to be manually reset with an OBD II scanner? Codes that the ECU can't reset?

    Is there a way to reset them with the diagnostics connectors under the dash below the steering wheel? I read something about that a couple of weeks ago,somewhere.

    Also, I found an OBD II analyser for $200, that interfaces with a laptop. As soon as I get the cash, I buying one! I don't like going to dealers, and have done my own machanical work for years, succesfully.

    In addition to my wife's Subaru, I own a 1999 Saab 9-3, and, that scanner will work on that also, since it comes with an ISO interface, if I choose, amongst others available. Doug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Is it still throwing the same exact codes as it was before?

    At one point Patti told us it took something like 9 cycles for a code to reset itself once it was fixed, but I would have expected the ECU reset to fix that right away. :confuse:

    -juice
  • doug900doug900 Member Posts: 7
    I did call a dealer that sells only subaru (in fact it was were we purchased this car several years ago), and the lady that answered said that 70 to 100 miles for the ECU to be happy with everything and reset the check engine light, is not etched in stone. She said that she has seen as much as 500 miles before the check engine light was reset. She said that one option is to reset it manually, with a OBD II reader and start from ground zero, but then everything would have to reset itself (another 50 to 60 miles or so, give or take).

    Also, I wondered about aftermarket O2 sensors (which is what I purchased), and she said that they use them all of the time at there dealership, without any problems.

    Bottom line...Keep driving it to see if it will reset, says she. I may stop at autozone to see what codes come up, just for laughs. Autozone said that they will not reset the ECU because of liability, but they can read it and give you the codes. Doug Brown
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    This doesn't really address your questions, but thought I'd share my most recent OBD-II experience.

    Our '01 Outback had it's CEL on two weeks ago, the code was regarding the knock sensor. I replaced it after verifying there was power on the circuit. Since I had the battery disconnected while I did the work, the CEL was off when I got the car going again with the new sensor installed.

    Since the car's state inspection was also expired last week, I took it to the shop a bit too soon, and it failed because of two ECU test monitors being in a not ready state. Apparently the shop could tell that I had the knock sensor problem (so I assume the code must have still been in there somewhere), but the monitors which were in the not ready state were completely unrelated and caused by not driving it enough after the ECU reset.

    When I got the car back, the shop informed me that some vehicles can be driven through a predetermined drive cycle which can get all the ECU test monitors in a ready state more quickly, but they didn't have information on how to do that with an Outback. So, I got a 10 day extension on my inspection, and they sent me home with instructions to just drive the car normally for a week before coming back, then it should be able to pass. It went in this afternoon for re-inspection, so I'm not sure what the verdict is yet.

    What I still don't know, and should have asked, is if the knock sensor failure event is still going to be stored in the ECU going forward, or if the shop has cleared it manually somehow.

    Good luck with your problem.
  • jac7jac7 Member Posts: 2
    Dropped my teen daughters car off with a laundry list of complaints today, service rep says the check engine light is on due to a faulty knock +/or oxygen sensor, cost will be $385. Coincidentally the cost to do a 30k mile engine tune up is also $385 to which I replied, must be 385 dollar day at (blank blank) subaru! Does anyone have any feedback as to the accuracy of this diagnosis and cost? If I don't have it done today will there be immediate issues? I did ask the service rep if this was a common problem to which he replied it was not. Called hubby and he didn't have a clue. :confuse:
  • joeb24joeb24 Member Posts: 111
    I recently purchased an 06 Outback LL Bean Wagon and have a question about the AC and Defogging the front windshield. With the system in manual mode, if I have the AC on and push the MODE button so as to activate the front windshield defogger (and also get AC to my feet), the system works fine (cool air goes up to the front windshield and to my feet). However, if I push the front windshield defroster/defogger button (on the knob to the right), then warm air comes out of the top-front of the dashboard towards the front windshield, even though I have the AC on? The manual says that when in this mode, and with the AC on, the AC should be running. So, I would expect cold air to come out of the top-front of the dashboard? Is the system malfunctioning?
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    No, the system is working correctly. The quickest defogging mode is a mix of heated, dried air.The air conditioner cools the air and moiture precipitates out to drain away. It then passes the heater and is warmed. Try it and be surprised at how quickly the windscreen clears.

    The Climate control function is very good in the Outback and its not really necessary to second guess it. In general, I just left the whole system on Auto with the Air Conditioning on and only ever altered the temperature a little. It always did the setting better than I could manually.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    My rotors are warped on a 2002 Outback Wagon. They were turned at 33k for free. Now the car has 55k and they are warped beyond belief. I can tell the fronts are shot but do not know about the back.

    I would like 'em replaced. Dealer told me 1 hour to hour and a half repair but I couldn't get a price, parts was closed.

    Anyone have an idea what it would cost to get front and rear rotors and pads replaced?

    Thanks.
  • finxfinx Member Posts: 2
    I have a Subaru Legacy -95. A few days ago the car wouldn't start because the battery was empty. I have done some troubleshooting and found out that the alternator only outputs 12.5 V when motor is running (it's supposed to be 13-14 V). Does anyone have a clue to what might be the problem? It seems that the alternator is working but not at its' full potential. The car has run about 140000 km.

    Thanks
    L-E
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    My understanding of the wording in the shop manual re. the OBDII is that the CEL will reset in a certain number of cycles of whatever condition caused it to be set in the first place. That may be in 5 miles of start/stop/restart driving or in 500 miles of highway use.

    I don't believe disconnecting the battery will erase "hard-set" error codes. OTOH, settings for normal adjustment, like adapting to a new sensor, or resetting idle specs after a battery is replaced, occur in a few miles of normal driving.

    That was what I got from the manual, anyway.

    Stanton
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I had a similar problem. I did not troubleshoot the alternator itself (dig into it and replace the bad part); just replaced with a remanufactured from NAPA. Works great now; I had to make sure all electrical that could be shut off - was shut off, if I was going let the car idle. Otherwise, it would die within 20-30 minutes (max). I made the mistake of having the alternator tested at the local Subaru dealership and they gave me info as to what was actually wrong with it; if I think about it I will look it up and relay the info.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I haven't had time to monkey around with it or even perform a compression test (head gasket related) at this point.

    I had not considered the possibility of it being gunked up. My '69 C20 is really bad about getting leaves and debris in the fan; it just chucks the stuff out at me without any complications.... the first drive of the spring is always interesting and I even keep the darned thing covered all winter! Anyway, will take a look at that first then see whether there is a fault in the fan wiring.... I'll save the gremlin search for the end.

    Much appreciated,

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    You can check list and discount parts prices at: www.1stsubaruparts.com

    Jim
  • danielrrdanielrr Member Posts: 1
    Hi I was wondering if anyone had this problem before;

    My check engine light came on the other day and now the car idle's rough (but never stalls) and has a clicking sound coming from the engine bay. It also makes a funny sound when I'm starting it: when it's turning with the starter it makes a noise that sounds like it turned too fast at one point. The car seems to have all it's power when running though.

    Has anyone had this problem before ? I live in a pretty remote area and I'm just wondering if it was safe to drive it around to the next sensible mechanic which is about 40 miles away.

    Thanks,
  • finxfinx Member Posts: 2
    I went to car mechanic specialized in electronics today, see what they suggests...
    Perhaps they will replace it as well.
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    No outback rotors there.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Check again. I have ordered Outback rotors from them previously for my 98.

    I think I found what you are looking for under Brakes, Brake Components, Front(or Rear) Brakes, Rotors.

    Or call them.
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    If the check engine light is on, then the shop should know if the problem is with a knock sensor, O2 sensor or both, because they have different trouble codes. That leads to the question, what exactly is your $385 buying? New knock sensor, new 02 sensor, both? I purchased a replacement knock sensor from NAPA for ~$75 and installed it myself, but to get one from a local Subaru dealer would have cost ~$180, then probably at least 1 hour of labor at $60-$70/hr and a diagnostic fee.

    You may have seen my earlier post about my recent knock sensor replacement, and we drove the car for a week like that without worry. I've driven cars with bad 02 sensors for short periods of time (2-3 wks) without much trouble, too. Over a long period of time the engine may suffer, but your car shouldn't do anything extreme like quit in the middle of the road before you decide what to do with it.

    The knock sensor and O2 sensor issues may be common, it's hard to tell. If you search this forum you'll see some posts about other folks having to replace either one or both. Curiously, MSN autos mentions both sensors as "moderate problems" for the '01 Outback in their reliability ratings.

    The $385 tune-up is hard to comment on much without knowing what work is being offered. For that much money, I hope you would be getting a lot. I know my '01 Outback certainly doesn't need $385 of tune-up work, and it has nearly 60K miles on it. Both the dealers where I purchased my current vehicles offer rather expensive 30/60/90K service visits that might be similar to what you're being offered, but they include work that seems to be unnecessary in my opinion, like replacing expensive spark plugs before they are really worn out. I don't want to steer you away from a tune-up, but you should find out exactly what's provided before spending nearly 400 bucks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Hard to say from the seat of my pants, but it sounds like you have a sensor or two that has gone defunct on you. The "turning too fast" you hear upon starting almost sounds like the car is starting to flood a bit before it finally starts.

    I had a similar problem last summer (rough on start up, pinged/ticked excessively, wanted to flood while cranking, etc) and it turned out to be several bad sensors: knock sensor was bad and the crank sensor + upper O2 sensor were working intermittently. After they were replaced, the car ran great again. I think the sensors were about $100 ea for the parts; they are all relatively easy to access (~ 1 hour to dig in to them all, but just accessory removal). Get an OBDII readout - preferably from someone/place that will not charge you for it, and go from there.

    The car will probably keep running for you, but I'd get it fixed sooner rather than later. If it up and floods on you (does the "fast" cranking prolonged rather than just intermittently), push the gas pedal to the floor, crank a few times, let off the pedal - it should start up. Good luck!

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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