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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • themomcarthemomcar Member Posts: 1
    I'm driving a '98 Subary OUtback Wagon. Its been a pretty good car except for the Alarm system. It goes off when other people use their remote keyless clickers. This occurs fairly frequently - say once or twice per week. But, does not seem to be associated with only other Subaru cars. It might be a Chrysler Van, maybe another Subaru. I've gone to the dealer and they claim they've never seen this before. They reset the alarm, but it hasn't help. And, in the 98, you can't turn off the alarm. The car won't drive then. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • electricglideelectricglide Member Posts: 6
    I was taught that when the car starts to hydroplane you take the foot of the accelerater and don't touch the brakes until the hydroplaning has stopped. Much the same way when a car breaks contact with snow or ice and start to skid.
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    What you described sound far more like hydroplaning than brake problems. The grinding noise is probably the ABS operating when there was no effective contact between the tyre and the road.

    Simple rule. When you first detect hydroplaning, its a warning that you are driving dramatically too fast for weather conditions and must slow down. All tyres are designed to clear water from the road tyre interface, but if the volume of water is too great, either through being deeper than the tyre designer intended or you driving so fast that the channels cannot displace it quickly enough, the water builds up as a wedge under the tyre. If you are that enthusiastic about driving on water, buy a hovercraft.

    If you do start to aquaplane, the rule is to back off gently. Do not touch the brakes and do not make violent steering corrections. You can check if you are aquaplaning by easing off the accelerator. In extreme situations, you will see the engine speed suddenly drop to idle, until tyre road contact is re-established.

    Changing tyres may result in differing aquaplaning sppeds but comes with other trade offs. Wet weather tyres are usually biased toward preventing aquaplaning as part of their design.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    As the alarm was an option item, I am going to assume it is at least similar in execution to the way it was done on the 2000 - 2004 Outback & Legacy Wagons. The keyless entry is a module located behind the glovebox area, and the alarm module is located behind the radio in the center stack. Each could be added to base models, thus what is added can be removed - unplug and unplay (in Microsoft speak).

    Steve
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    2-4" and you were going 55-60? That sounds like asking for hydroplaning more than anything else.....

    On snow/ice, the first thing I do in a skid situation if I *really* want to re-grip the road is jam on those brakes to engage the ABS. That sucker grips the road like superglue with the ABS. I only do that when a ditching is emminent though. Most of the time I just steer it because I wanted to slide in the first place. :blush: I find I have to work a bit at losing my grip on the road - it doesn't typically happen by accident as long as one drives with a smooth and steady hand. Quick movements of those front wheels or quick, heavy stomps on the accelerator are the surest way to break loose. The other common option is uneven tire resistance - say when one drives through a puddle that is deeper on one side of the vehicle than the other or in snow that is deeper or denser on one side than the other. That's what makes slush so trecherous.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Well put, Graham! I should have read a little more before posting my blather. :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    My reply was to driving carefully over flooded roadways and other surfaces, like one should drive offroad. Hydroplaning is a different animal.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I have Michlen Ice X (sic) Winter Snow tires but on the car, several times I ended up hydro-planing at speeds around 55-60 mph. Pretty scary, Consumer Reports rate these tires as fair for hydro-planing I would rate it as poor.

    And we find the Nokian RSI's resistant to hydroplaning and just bought another set for my Outback 3.0 - even though the same dealer carries the X-Ice at a lower price.

    There is a message on the CR forums asking how they come up with their Ratings, with the following response by a CR person(emphasis added):

    Overall score is a weighted average of all the rating categories (including some that are not publiched (sic)). Braking, handling, hydroplaning resistance, and winter grip are more heavily weighted than other items. Ratings represent a number in a range. For instance, "Good" represents a 3, and that can fall between 2.51 to 3.49. That range will impact overall score....The cars used last year were a Chevy Malibu (all season tires), Toyota Camry (winter tires), and Chevy Silverado (all terrain tires).

    In summary CR uses categories not published to give Ratings; does not give out the raw data; and doesn't explain how meaningful the differences in their scores are for the real world.

    One might add that they make some peculiar choices for which tires to test. For example, they tested the Hankook W404, which is designed to be studded, but not the W300, which is more directly competitive to the X-Ice or RSI, and has a reputation for offering excellent winter tire perfomance at a low price.

    Looking at tire tests done by car magazines and others where the data is available, and reading user reviews like those at Tire Rack seems to be a lot more reliable method of selecting tires. Tire Rack does not sell Nokian (Nokian does not allow mail order sales of their tires) but you can get many, many first person recommendations from folks who drive a great deal on snow and ice.
  • chuck18chuck18 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Outback AWD, and am having the same exact problem your having. 136,000 miles. I took it to a Cottman Transmission place and without even looking at it they said it was an internal seal that would require a complete overhaul to the tune of about 2500-3000 bucks depending on if they find other issues. I've seen some messages on this board suggesting that Subaru may help with the costs, but nothing significant, 1-800-SUBARU3, Customer Service. I guess it's worth a shot. I also read in this board that someone had our problem and has just lived with it...Cottman people told me it would just get worse.
  • tetonviewtetonview Member Posts: 1
    The low beams of my 2006 Outback wagon cast a light beam pattern that I've not seen with other cars -- there's a distinct horizontal "line", below which is brightly lit and above which is unlit. This is a "wrap around" effect with the "line" seen in front of the car (on the road and/or objects ahead)and at the sides of the road when there are relatively nearby objects (e.g. a Jersey barrier or a line of trees). This is particularly noticible on road signs; you see the light/dark line move across the face of the sign, top to bottom, as you approach. When parked close to a wall, garage door etc in front of the car, the light/dark line is quite apparent (compared to my other cars that show a more diffuse lighting pattern, just gradually fading out as you move out from the car). Does this sound normal for the Outback, or do my headlights need adjusting?
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I've had my 06 wagon for a week now and my lights are just as you describe. I assume it is normal.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    I have the same distinct headlight line with my 01 RAV4. I guess it helps keep the lights from blinding oncoming drivers.
    It is a very precise line, and, liking precision, I like it.
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    I too have had roof drain problems. For a couple of weeks a few years back I drove around without a head liner (the drain system is extensive). It leaked in a manner similar to you, dripping from map light console. They got it fixed and it reoccurred once in a similar manner. They blew it out then an all was well until about a month or so ago. This time there was a leak near the rear post adjacent to the rear hatch. I took it in, off came the head liner and post trim and nothing was found to my knowledge. Blew it out, Ok again. BTW in researching where the leaking water went, at that time, I found it in the spare tire wheel well ~1" or so. I mopped it out before I took it to dealer. I now plan to ask them to blow the drains on each oil change from this point forward and hope for the best.
    Bob
    Bottom line check your spare tire well now and then.
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    Yes the headlight pattern is suppose to do just that. It uses projection beam halogen lights. Basically it gived a simular pattern to HID lights w/o the distracting and night vision destroying 'blue-white' glare.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    ...took it to a Cottman Transmission place and without even looking at it they said it was...

    I'd insist on proper diagnosis/verification of the problem before dropping that much money, rather than a sight-unseen opinion. Either that or a second opinion froma different shop!

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's the way the europeans do it, basically. American lights traditionally spread light all over the place without much focus.

    I got E-codes for my Miata, as opposed to the sealed beams it came with. The old sealed beams were dim and broadcast a weak light with litte/no aim or focus. The E-codes have that sharp cutoff and really focus the light down on to the road. Sooooo much better.

    You can see them here side-by-side. As you might imagine the light on the left is the E-code. The difference is rather incredible.

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    So far I am quite pleased with the headlights on my 06 OB. Much, much better than the headlights on my old 98 OB.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I cannot comment on '05+, but I agree that the older models' (mine's a '96) lights left a lot to be desired. I think part of it at this point is just aging (the yellowing of the plastic protection film over the glass), but nearly blind w/ low beams. My driving lights save the day for the high beams. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    The problem I have noticed with the projector beam halogen lights, well 3 problems, or at least issues:
    1 - On hilly terrain the road is often above that sharp cutoff.
    2 - On hilly terrain you are sometimes shining too much light at oncomming drivers.

    But the biggest issue is:
    3 - The headlights throw so much light on the road surface close to the car, this causes your pupels to constrict making it harder to see further down the road (though you think you are seeing farther since you are seeing more closer things better).

    In city/suburban driving this in not an issue, but it seems better to just use the daytime running lights + parking lights when in a remote area, you can see further (though since this is illegal I would never do this).
  • subbie99subbie99 Member Posts: 6
    I also have a 1999 Subaru Outback that had the same problem. I had my transmission rebuilt for $2200.00 cnd. with a 1yr warranty or 12,000 miles and the rebuilder told me that this is a know problem and showed me the tech. bulletin....... Subaru do know about this problem and in a letter they sent me suggested I should buy one from them, with a very nice colour printed leaflet, as mine was out of warranty. The dealer told me the cost$4000.00 cnd. plus labour. How kind of Subaru to let me know!!
    The rebuilder also told me that the same automatic transmission is used in the Nissan Pathfinder and they have the same problem with the seals.
    That was 9 months ago.....it seems to be working fine, however I think that I will trade it in after the winter.
    Maybe for a Toyota Matrix AWD !!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Keep in mind you'd have a meager 123hp, barely enough to get out of your own way. Torque is weak, too.

    Matrix makes more sense in FWD, with less weight and more power. You need more than 123hp with AWD.

    -juice
  • subbie99subbie99 Member Posts: 6
    Thank you Juice......but what I dont need is another Subaru with Automatic Transmission problems.....that was my point....
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Thank you Juice......but what I dont need is another Subaru with Automatic Transmission problems.....that was my pointThank you Juice......but what I dont need is another Subaru with Automatic Transmission problems.....that was my point

    You might be getting an even less capable version of the same Japanese trans. Some Subaru auto transmissions are standard japanese product with a Subaru case. I believe the guts are similar to Toyota units which come in various torque ratings....and the Matrix is bottom end.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Doesn't Nissan also use that trans? I think Pathfinders or XTerras had them, IIRC.

    Get a manual. ;)

    -juice
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    I believe the Maxima has the same transmission as the 5EAT. Rob M.
  • markk1markk1 Member Posts: 30
    I have a 2000 Outback. During the entire life of the car the dipstick indicates the oil level is too high (by a couple of inches on the dipstick)

    The first time I noticed this I'd just had an oil change. I assumed they put too much oil in went back and they drained and refilled with the same result. And sure enough the oil has always read too high.

    I spoke to my dealer who said it is not an issue just the way the dipstick reads. According to him when you get near the top of the dipstick just a few ounces of oil will move the reading by a couple of inches. I can only guess that the dipstick is the wrong length or perhaps has the full indicator in the wrong place.

    Has anyone seen this? It doesn't seem to be an issue the engine has 80k on it and runs fine.
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I've never had it that high on the dipstick but Subaru ones can be notorious to read, sometimes they seem to "register" only on one side of the stick!
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    I would not buy for one second that a few oz's can equal a couple of inches, no way no how!, not even one inch.

    Too high is not good if the crankshaft contacts the oil as it will 'whip in up' getting air bubbles in the oil which will make your oil pump less effective.

    Reasons for the high reading can be a incorrect length dipstick, too much oil, something taking the place of the oil, like a big-ol' dent on the oil pan. Also checking the oil on a unlevel surface gives a crapshoot reading, make sure you are on level ground.
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    How long after shutting engine down have you been checking oil level?

    Krzys

    PS My 2005 Legacy GT has two sets of min and max. cold and worm engine levels (unless I am mistaken) ;-)
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    When checking your oil, make sure you are parked on level ground, and try to do so after the engine has been off for several hours. Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, and set it aside for a few minutes. Then, insert the dipstick and pull it out and check the level. That should give you an accurate reading. Hope this helps.

    Len
  • subbie99subbie99 Member Posts: 6
    Maybe there is something I dont understand but........
    Is it acceptable for Subaru automatic transmission fail because they are not the only car company to use this automatic transmission?
    It is a know fact that this automatic transmission fails......
    I don't own a Nissan with this automatic transmission, but I feel sorry for those who do......
    I own a Subaru with this faulty automatic transmission!!!
    Subaru have done nothing to correct this problem and do not even acknowledge that there is a problem!! however, they offer a rebuilt automatic transmission at an inflated cost.......
    My question is.....Subaru, what happened to customer satisfaction????? and what happened to the bulletproof Subaru engineering reputation????
    I think this will be the last Subaru I buy.....is it time to buy another reliable Toyota Camry?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    did it first go out after 100K?? If it did I wouldn't consider that bad , I've had 2 Fords whose trannies went at 50 K and 38K !!! and I had an Acura once go at 70K, all my Subarus have gone to or past 100K with no tranny problems, its unfortunate but if it went at that high mileage unfortunately no manufacturer is likely to help out even if its a "known" problem.
  • mgossagemgossage Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my battery and cables after my car wouldn't start one morning. After a few weeks, I had the same problem--the car wouldn't turn over (although it tried to crank). I jumpstarted the car and drove it to a local Firestone dealership. They checked the electrical system and found nothing wrong (including the alternator and coil). Firestone did confess that electrical systems weren't their expertise and suggested I take the car to a Subaru specialist. The car has started without a problem the last couple of days although I detect a burning smell. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem might be?
  • martijnhmartijnh Member Posts: 24
    Hello all,

    My wonderful 2000 OB Ltd wagon is now 6 yrs old and (unfortunately) needed its first 'unscheduled' maintenance: a new Oxygen sensor. It was replaced (ka-ching!), but she also needs new rear brake pads (still original) and the battery test failed (reading: 14.1 (volts?)). Anyhow, here's my questions:

    - Dealer price for the brakes was over $300 (SF Bay area). I'm thinking of taking it to Midas, hoping it would be cheaper. Comments pls?
    - Can I replace the battery myself? Recommendations on what battery to get?

    Thanks!
    :confuse:

    (2000 OB / 2002 Forester)
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    14.1 V, assuming the car was running does not sound like a battery trouble, perhaps a voltage regulator problem or a altenator problem (98 outbacks had a recall on the alt several years into it, it might have included a few other years too).

    But it sounds like 6 years is alot to ask of a battery and it should be changed now because of that. And yes you 'should' be able to do it yourself, but if you do it wrong, well lets say very wrong you could cause some damage.

    Midas should be cheaper, but will use aftermarket parts which may not be as good, and may wear faster (then again they might be better parts, but I doubt it)
  • subbie99subbie99 Member Posts: 6
    Hi cptpit.
    My 99 Outback.....had 85K and was 64 months old (5yrs 4 months, however, I started to complain about trannie problems at 72K and 54 months old......still in warranty.....but because Subaru had "never heard of a known trannie problem" it wasnt fixed under warranty.
    The transmission filter and fluid were changed at 72K service by the dealer, when I told them of my transmission problems, later I was told that this was normal....now I know it was...........the dealer did try to get Subaru to honor the warranty, because I had the problem documented by the dealer. They also found me a transmission rebuilder at half the cost of Subaru.
    Once again I am not sure why it is acceptable for the Subaru transmissions to fail, just because other car companies have worse transmission....my point is that none of these transmissions should fail....and that a known problem (with a tech bulletin) to a transmission shop is unknown by Subaru and is not repaired under warranty. However, Subaru were quick to send out a leaflet saying they had a factory rebuilt transmission of more than twice the cost of a Transmission shop with a no better warranty.
    I have owner both Honda Civic and Toyota Camry and had over 200K without a transmission fail and even a old Dodge with 260K miles....I expected no less from Subaru.
    I guess I should just lower my expectations
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    You can do the battery and the brakes yourself. It only takes about 45 minutes total - for both jobs! Pads for the rear will probably run you around $65, a bottle of DOT3 brake fluid ~$4.00, some anti-squeal compound ~$3.00, and a battery at about $80. The need for the battery to be replaced probably has more to do with its ability to carry a load. For example (purely conjecture here), your battery might only last 30 minutes if you shut the car off and leave the lights on while a new battery would last perhaps 4 hours. After 6 years, it is a good time to replace. The only point of caution is to make sure you reconnect the terminals properly!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • martijnhmartijnh Member Posts: 24
    Well, the battery is obviously an easy job. Don't know if I will replace the brake pads myself though. I did assist a friend once to replace the brakes on a 82 Chevy Caprice Classic...

    Another thread mentioned the importance of tightening the lugnuts with the appropriate torque to prevent brake-rotor-warping?

    Any sites/books that illustrate brake pad replacement?

    Thanks!

    :surprise:
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    45 minutes :surprise: :confuse: for replacing the brake pads, perhaps if you know what you are doing, and have done it before more then once. For the first timer I would say allow 3 hours. The battery itself should be quick, but again for a battery virgin perhaps 20-30 minutes.
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    I was going up my snowy driveway, well skidding up as is it steep and I wasn't moving that fast to begin with.

    I quickly moved the shifter into 'manumatic' mode 2nd gear from the 'normal' drive position to help out a bit and made it up.

    Now I go to turn the car around, then the ABS light and Check engine light came on together. In my old car the ABS light might come on if a wheel is slipping too much, so I though it might be that, but the check engine light :confuse:

    I shut off the car then re-start it, abs light is now off, but check engine is stil on and I notice the Cruse control light is flashing. I took the car down the block to see if it would go away (assuming it was due to the slipping), but no dice. I noticed that the CC will not work either.

    I have a 2 yr old code reader which I hooked up but got no trouble codes, it did seem to take longer to read however.

    Called the dealer, he told me that:
    1 - When the check engine light comes on the cruse light flashes and won't work :confuse:
    2 - That the skidding should not cause the Check engine light to light.
    3 - ABS light is most likely a seperate issue, perhaps related to the skidding.
    4 - My code reader most likely does not do dealer (manufacturer) specfic codes.

    Anyone out there have and suggestions or have had a simular trouble?
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    my car developed new feature.
    There is a hair crack in windshield.
    Right lower corner going toward center up. Lovely sight.

    I will be visiting dealer on Monday.

    Krzys

    PS In MA windshield is covered by insurance so if Subaru says that it is not warranty then it will be insurance. By the way there is no sign of impact near the crack.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I wouldn't exactly call that premature failure, heck on a Dodge van that's longer than average life! LOL

    -juice
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    my heart goes out to you as I had my hassles with the Ford. I don't quite understand what you mean though by they wouldn't fix it as they had not heard of tranny problems, if there was a problem there and it was recognized as such by the dealer it should be fixed regardless of whether the product has a history of problems unless they could say it had been abused or it had never been serviced beforehand.
    unfortunately things do fail, some things more often than others and some manufacturers more than others, getting 200K out of any car is fantastic regardless of the make but even Honda with its minivans have had lots of problems with trannies recently and Toyota with its engine sludge.
  • jchamberlandjchamberland Member Posts: 1
    Subaru P/N 63269AE020 are the stay assemblies that lift the rear tailgate. I have replaced them twice at a cost of over $100 a pair. They don't have enough power to raise the tailgate under their own force. The tailgate must be raised by hand then the stay assembly will keep it up. Am I the only one with this problem? STRONGARM, LIFTER
  • laughergirllaughergirl Member Posts: 4
    I am having trouble with my brakes. It has been serviced by the dealer 4 times. The brakes make a grinding noise when trying to stop at low speeds or stopping on an incline. The service dept. says that these brakepads leave a film on the rotors and that is the problem. They clean them off and send me on my way. The problem dissappears for a short while but comes back when I have to stop on an incline.Then it grinds intermittantly on stopping. But always grinds on an incline. I am being very careful not to come to any sudden stops. These brakes feel weak. It scares me. They tell me that all Subaru brakes are this way. I have 17,ooo miles on this car. I have had 3 instances where I had to make a sudden stop at a low speed that I thought I was going to crash into the car in front of me. Does any one out there have clue as to what the real problem is? This is my first Subaru. I talked to the mechanic and he said that I would probably need new pads by 20,000 mi. Sounds like they are trying to limp it along until then. Even so that seems soon for new brakes.
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    This is the 2nd post about '05 OB brakes being weak. I have not personaly had any such issues in 34k miles, and am on the 1st set. At current wear I hope to get another 10k out of them.

    I think no matter what the manufacturer says, new pads have to be broken in (basically lightly riding your brakes and no sudden stops if possiable for the 1st few miles). If it is not needed all it will do is wear them a tad, if it is it will set them up nicely till they need to be changed.

    If you have started cutting into the rotor and the rotors have not been replaced or resurfaced that could cause the grinding noise, Also I have heard of some buildup causing it, but don't really recall how that happens, perhaps the pads become contaiminated w/ leaking brake fluid.

    Rust can also cause a grinding noise and wil happen if your car is stored outdoors and not driven every day, but usually the rust comes off after a few brake applications.
  • stantontstantont Member Posts: 148
    Subaru brakes have not been a problem as far as I know, and in my experience they are anything but weak. My 2002 Legacy has been stopped HARD in traffic when folks cut in front of us and jammed on their brakes. My biggest concern was watching my mirror in case the guy behind us couldn't stop in time and I had to dive for the shoulder to get out of his/her way.

    Have you ever done any hard stops in this car? If not, if you are a habitually gentle braker, you may not have ever pushed them hard enough to "bed" the pads to the rotors. There are several procedures for doing this, but all of them involve some routine of one or more hard stops (not quite hard enough for the ABS to kick in , but HARD) from high speed (70 mph or so) down to a NEAR stop, but not quite stopping, and then driving on until the rotors COOL WHILE MOVING. Then repeat as needed. In all of this, safety is a concern: don't try it under slippery conditions, and don't do it when anyone might be behind you and panic or run into you. A deserted road under good conditions is perfect.

    What happens is that a thin, even coating of the brake pad material is deposited on the steel rotors under the very high heat involved, and thereafter the brakes stop better (more friction between the pads and the thin coating than between the pad and the bare, smooth steel rotor), and they also last much longer.

    Most companies that sell racing brakes describe procedures for doing this in their literature or on their websites, but new car manufacturers don't bother with it. It not only improves brake performance, it also increases durability (strangely enough), but since the durability benefits would not show up for several years, car makers don't bother with it. For most people, normal driving in traffic yields adequate brake performance, and I bet the car companies don't want to tell a new customer that their brakes would last longer and stop better if the owner went out and did this. And certainly some yoyo would try it on an icy road and crash and sue, and the lawyers would all get rich...

    For more info on this procedure, do a Google search on "brake bedding" and see what some of the racing brake mfgrs tell you.

    We bought our Legacy used, with 57,000 miles and excellent brakes, so I didn't bother with this; but when our 2001 Honda Accord developed a brake pulsation after about 25,000 miles, I bedded the brakes (three hard stops from 75 mph, as above) rather than have the rotors turned. The problem went away immediately, and brake performance thereafter was flawless.

    Hope this helps.

    Stanton
  • laughergirllaughergirl Member Posts: 4
    This car is driven everyday, garage kept. I am normally a fairly agressive driver but I have had to change my ways especially in parking decks and inclines because these brakes grind and feel weak. This problem didn't start until about 8,000 mi. I have 17,000 now in just one year. I bought a smaller SUV because I have 2 girls that are learning to drive. I wanted a safe car that they could handle. Now I feel like I should have gotten something else. I don't have time or patience to deal with this. I am afraid that their inexperience could be a problem if these brakes don't stop this car. I made a quick stop the other day going about 20 mph and I thought I was going to crash into the car in front of me. Believe me most cars would have stopped without the awful noise that I heard. I think something is wrong. I just don't know what. I drove my husbands Buick the other day. It is 8 years old. Wow! That is how brakes should work. I had forgotten what good brakes are like.
  • jarbojarbo Member Posts: 1
    2001 Outback wagon - 2.5 manual trans
    Got a 420 code - and the engine hesitates when accelerating in the lower range of any gear in any way other than gently.

    Wonder if it's an O2 sensor and if so, which one? Is there an electronic test one can do on the sensors themselves? Would like to avoid getting raped at the dealer.......if sensors check out ok I guess the cat(s) might be the problem...?
    --have done the obvious: plugs, wires, fuel filter, (it was time for those) and dry gas...thanks
  • subbie99subbie99 Member Posts: 6
    I just wanted to clear up the confusion regarding why my 99 Outback wasn't repaired under warranty.

    The dealer could not make the trannie problem happen, as it was intermittent at that time(at 72000kms). By the time the trannie problem became solid, my Outback was out of warranty.

    I am aware that things do fail, if I were the only person to have had trannie problems with my Subaru Outback, I too would have put it down to bad luck and that would have been the end of the story.

    However; my point is that this was a known problem by Subaru, therefore Subaru should have done something about it.
    Subaru have done nothing.....except send out a leaflet offering a rebuilt transmission at an inflated price.

    Subaru Automatic Transmissions before 1998 did not have a problem and there are many Subaru's with well over 200K kms still running with the orginal Trannies.
    I have not heard of any transmission probems on 2003 to 2006, but that maybe because they are still under warranty.
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