Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

texsubaru · December 2005

One thing that make me wonder was that there was a small metal clip hanging onto one of the little side splash guard things that I do have. I can't be sure what the purpose of the clip might have been. It sure wasn't doing anything useful there, so I was theorizing that perhaps it had been part of what could've held a center piece on. *But* it wouldn't have been at all secure without being attached to something other than such a small clip. As mentioned in original post, I didn't see one under the couple of other 2005s I've checked, but have seen them on a couple of 2006s that I checked (didn't take time to study how those were attached, since I felt a little odd about kneeling down in parking lots staring at the underside of total strangers' cars; might get reported to Homeland Security or something!).

carolann1 · January 2006

I purchased my so called dream car, but when winter hit I noticed more moisture in the car and ice built up. Mold grew in the back of our car. The dealer found a leaking hatch. No drain holes and miss placed gaskets. I curious if any one out there had and of these problems. Plus the undershields kept breaking.

dsaintandre · January 2006

Nick...

I'm curious if you ever happened to get any resolution on the ticking problem you described and attributed to the keyless entry. I have a recurring ticking problem as well that sounds similar (unlike others who describe ticking the same as "pinging" and related it to oil or whatever).

This ticking clicks 60 times, then stops for about ten seconds before resuming. The only way I seem to have been able to get it to stop (sometimes it will just stop on it's own, other times it will click and flash the parking lights for hours or until it's drained) is by fiddling with wires and what must be the keyless entry box you described. I've never found a button either. Thanks for any insights.

dsa

tkanic · January 2006

. Plus the undershields kept breaking.

My understanding is that the plastic shields under the front engine area do break way to often.

Can't help you w/ the leak

klerner1 · January 2006

I have a 2003 Legacy wagon. The passenger side rear seatbelt had not been retracting properly . . . one night when my son was driving the car, apparently the seatbelt was caught in the door and dragging on the ground, and then got caught in the rear wheel. The car suddenly veered to the right -- luckily he did not go in the ditch or hit anyone. Now that seatbelt is all mangled, and the rear wheel makes a funny noise. I will take the car to the dealer. Anyone else had this problem? Is this a car defect, or an act of God? Any perspectives appreciated. -- Ken

ateixeira · January 2006

...or the previous owner removed them to facilitate oil changes. Don't you have to remove it to get to the oil filter?

-juice

skitheo · January 2006

Has anyone else seen this?
Start out from a stop, hard acceleration. At about 10mph, the tunnel at the back of the front center console "rumbles" as if the driveshaft is shaking (about 4 cycles/sec).

This is an '01 Outback VDC, so it's H6/auto, so no clutch, unless you're referring to the center diff.

Is that a CV joint in the driveline right behind the driveline support? Would that be going bad?

Thanks for any input.

BTW, the car has been doing very well for 108K mi. The front sunroof shattered while driving down the road (no other vehicles in sight, the rear spoiler got crushed by backing into a garage door that wasn't completely open, and the hood protector disintegrated (warranty replacement), all in '01-'02.

skitheo

link5 · January 2006

Hi, I just purchased a set of KYB's GR-2 for my 2000 Outback Wagon and would like to know if there are any free info sites where I might get detailed installation instructions. Only for the rear as I'm assuming they will be easier than the fronts. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. Also, anything good to say on the KYB's? Only wanted to get it back to original specs, not looking for hi performance.

kens · January 2006

On my 05 LGT wagon, there's a small cover that you swing open to access the oil filter. It's so much easier than the cover that was on my 98 Forester. You just pop out three quarter-turn plastic plugs with a screwdriver and swing it open. The underside of the engine from the oil drain plug forward to the bumper has a black plastic cover.

Ken

xwesx · January 2006

The rubber gasket is bad on the driveshaft bearing that supports the front half of the driveshaft. I had this same problem on my '96 when I purchased it in 2000. The part (new) was somewhere around $500, though I purchased mine from a scrapyard for half that and have not had any problems since (another 115K miles). The work itself was easy to perform, though frustrating due to the location of the exhaust system and associated heat shields, though the '01 layout may be different.

xwesx · January 2006

Shelley-

Please be sure to tell us the resolution to this story! I was hoping to receive a followup to the email you sent me (and I returned) last week, but alas, no news yet.

-Wes-

skitheo · January 2006

Took it to a local dealer this morning. They said that the U-Joints and carrier (center) bearing were trashed. Said they hadn't seen it in the 4 years that this service manager has been there. $900 P&L

The whole drive shaft assembly has to be replaced. The components are not sold individually. The heat shields and exhaust are kind of a pain, but didn't look like anything that an impact wrench couldn't make quick work of. I think if the heat shield is out of the way, the exhaust can be left in place to replace the driveshaft. Found it online for $420-480 + shipping.

xwesx · January 2006

I am not sure that there is any reason I cannot post this link here, so my apologies if it is inappropriate:

This is for the Endwrench article Larry referenced in post #5690

xwesx · January 2006

Right.... the carrier bearing (I'm horrible with techical terms, but hopefully I was able to get the part across). Yes, the bearing is connected to the front driveshaft and "requires" replacement all at once. The cost, including labor, is about what I would expect from a dealer considering how much time it took me and the cost of the parts (new) on my '96. In reality, that bearing can be removed from the shaft with a slight un-dinging of the bearing housing to allow it to slip over the shaft's teeth, then reverse the procedure with a new one. The problem is that Subaru does not offer the bearing without the shaft! So..... guess who gets the shaft?

If it has been doing it quite some time, then the U-joint might be trashed, but it is a moot point really since the U-joint is removed with the driveshaft.

I did not remove the exhaust system to access mine - only the shields. It was just a pain having to work around it but, in retrospect, was probably one of the easiest repairs I have made on the car to date!

skitheo · January 2006

Cool. Thanks Wes! I guess I'll let them do it. Maybe the next person to find this problem will see the post and be able to do it themselves.

gbrainard5575 · January 2006

Looks like I'm the only one with massive Automatic transmission failures. Dealer is standing behind the product and is taking care of business. No Complaints. Guess I'll just keep motoring along and see what happens next. see Msg #5673 Pg 285. Will post when I have number 4 put in. Later.................

diverken · January 2006

Actually 2 problems. Headlight burn out and cruise control.
We have replaced 5, yes 5 headlights in 1 year! Subaru says we are driving with our lights on too much rather than "daytime driving lights" only. The lights are so strong they produce too much heat and it is burning out the bulbs. We tried driving with only "daylight" lights but another one just burnt out. My wife leaves before sunrise and returns after dark so this presents a problem of driving without the lights on!!! Has anyone else had this problem? ALSO: It is an automatic and when on cruise control downhill it is real jerky. Again Subaru has been no help, denies this is a problem and "never heard of this problem before". We had a 2002 and had no problem with lights or cruise control.

ateixeira · January 2006

Sounds like some sort of electrical short. There must be a surge burning those bulbs.

Call 800-SUBARU3. Offer to show receipts to prove you've changed the bulbs several times.

-juice

kens · January 2006

I've heard of other people complaining about bulbs burning out too soon. I'd definetly call Subaru as juice recommended and set up a case. I bet that it's a known problem and hopefully they can guide your dealer to a fix.

Ken

texsubaru · January 2006

OK, I posted the inquiry at My.Subaru.com, and this was the reply I received:

"I checked the spec book and there are different parts equipped on the different trim levels. Your vehicle is equipped with an Engine UnderCover Insulator:Side Type. I hope that this information helps ease any concerns you may have had regarding missing equipment."

And, assuming that "an Engine UnderCover Insulator" does translate to 'a splash guard,' I gather that means that the 2005 Outback 2.5i didn't come with a center underside splash guard. Does leave me wondering why other trim levels apparently would need it, though...

kens · January 2006

Interesting find. I never knew that the 2.5i models didn't have the center cover. The cover itself is just a sheet of plastic -- perhaps it's just a cost cutting measure? Or, maybe there's a difference in exhaust plumbing in the engines?

Ken

fibber2 · January 2006

you will be well within the .25" diameter spec that Subaru calls for

Just catching up, and I know that this is now a week old, but thought I should comment.

The spec on tire size uniformity is, I believe, 0.25" circumference, not diameter. With this spec, a tread depth difference of 4/32 will exceed this by a considerable margin (over 3x...).

Now, the question is whether it will do damage or not. Do you really want to take this chance? As a '99 didn't use a limited slip rear diffy, the chance of further complications is reduced. I wouldn't even consider mixing in a full tread tire on a newer model. But still, as XWESX mentioned, he could feel the binding even on his late '90's vehicle. With center diffys running around $2k to repair, is it worth the risk? I would shave the new tire to match, and run this combo to minimize the total expense.

Steve

jfl · January 2006

I just remembered that today's headlight bulbs are very delicate. They should not be touched by bare fingers during installation. The oils from your fingers create "hotspots" causing the bulb to fail. If you do touch the bulb, it should be thoroughly cleaned with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to remove the oils.

Could this be causing the problem?

Jim

xwesx · January 2006

Yes,I should also mention that I was ignorant of the "matching tires" requirement of Subarus when I had this tire installed. Had I known about it, I would have definitely had the tire shaved to match. I guess in this case, what I did not know did not hurt me. *Whew*

occking · January 2006

I have had two headlamps burn out during last few months (have 2005 outback). Also, the problem you document with the cruise has been discussed before on this forum. I have learned to live with it but the symptons you describe are certainly correct.

fasteddye · January 2006

I am having a similar problem with our 98 Outback. Every once in a while the battery will just die and a jump will start it right up. It started happening maybe once a month but lately has been a little more frequently. I have taken and had Advance Auto test the batter, alternator, and starter. They all come back ok. There is no rhyme or reason to when it happens, like if we have been driving for a while or just run to the store. When it decides to not start it does not start. The interior lights will be on though. When you turn the key there is no response or sound. Any help would be great.

pacman2004 · January 2006

i have a 2005 legacy GT Limited I have gone through 2 light bulbs too. First one subaru covered and the second I bought GE high end light bulb installed it myself. Its been 3 months now and no problems I drive with my lights on all the time. I think subaru uses cheap bulbs but it hasn't been a year to see if they blow again. the cruise problem haven't had it on this car but notice it hesitates with small uphill gas pedal movements.

lfdal · January 2006

I'd be thinking ignition switch and / or associated wiring.

Does the car have a remote starter installed?

Does removing and reinserting the key do anything?

xwesx · January 2006

I think this is actually a modestly common problem. I had this (or perhaps just an eerily similar) problem for a while and i have seen three other 96-99 OBW owners here in Fairbanks with the same problem. There really IS no rhyme or reason! Turn key to start, nothing. Turn it again, nothing. Walk away in disgust. Come back two minutes later.... starts right up! *smack forehead* Turn off. Turn it on, starts right up. ARRRGH!!!!

So, I found that it happend MOST frequently on errands... after 30-45 minutes of sitting. Once in a great while it would happen on a cold start (after sitting all night or all day at work), but it was rare. I think that for this particular aspect of my problem, I had a part in the starter.... maybe the solenoid or some relay replaced. I probably have the paperwork on it, but I'll have to check as it was nearly 6 years ago. The biggest problem is that there wasn't so much as a *click* when turning the key, and the battery really did act dead. Jumping it would work every time (but why??)... except one (which was when I realized that it was NOT a battery problem).

Now that I think about it, a relay makes more sense than a solenoid. I will try to remember to dig through my maintenance paperwork and see if I can come up with anything.

What's more, why is it that my car has had sooo many of these problems??? Yeech. Maybe as an Aug 1995 build, it was an early one? I remember three months after I bought this car vowing to never buy another Subaru and to dump the thing on the first unsuspecting fool I could find. Then winter came and all was forgiven.

ateixeira · January 2006

FWIW, my Forester still has the original light bulbs, all of them as a matter of fact.

I tried some Hella bulbs but they only lasted a year. Ironically I put the OE ones back in and they still work today, 7 years of use, 8 years total age.

-juice

xwesx · January 2006

I wish I could say the same, though all the exterior bulbs OTHER than the headlights are still originals save for the tail light on the right quarter panel. That's not bad in my book considering 10+ years of service and 1300 miles short of 200,000! Now, the INTERIOR bulbs..... let us not discuss those....

goosegog · January 2006

My 2000 OB also has all the original bulbs. DRLs are always on (90% power) unless the headlights are on.

diverken · January 2006

RE: Follow up to some possible solutions to my headlight problem.
1. Yes,understand about "oils" on the hand. I have had service techs who know about that replace the bulbs. We have been very careful not to touch with "human hands".

2. Call Subaru: Absolutely worthless. They say they have never heard of this problem. It is all our fault for driving with the lights on during the day, due to heat generated from bulbs they burnout faster. (5 bulbs in 15 months?). So, going to subaru is not an option. I have found their customer service, compared to Nissan or Toyota is off the map!

ateixeira · January 2006

I meant both, even my interior lights are fine. Of course I just jinxed myself...

-juice

rob_m · January 2006

There have been a lot of complaints on LGT.com regarding headlights burning out rather quickly on the 05 models. This should be covered under your 3/36 warrantee.

FWIW, I have both original bulbs on my 05 LGT. I am over 14k miles, and drive with the headlights and fog lights on all the time. Rob M.

tkanic · January 2006

>>>>FWIW, I have both original bulbs on my 05 LGT.
I have the origonal ones in my 05 OB - i, I suspect the problem is some sort of power surge.

>>> drive with the headlights and fog lights on all the time. Rob M.

Why? This just doesn't make any sense for you or the oncomming driver, unless it's foggy out. Throwing more light in the 'foreground' which the OB's fog lights do very well, just serve to constrict your pupils. So it may appear you are seeing better, you are only seeing things close better at the expense of seeing things further away.

Also throwing more light at oncomming drivers reduce their ability to see, which is not what you want when someone is apporaching you.

If you drive rural roads, you may try just the daytime running lights + parking lights (if legal), the DRL are far bright enough to use at night and don't throw as much light in the foreground at the headlights. You will find, though you are throwing less light, you will see further.

berutten · January 2006

Hi. I have an outback 2003 wagon. Recently I got an oil change, and shortly thereafter my engine started making this loud noise when I accelerate and (although this may be my imagination) I seem to have lost some engine power...it just doesn't seem to accelerate like it used to. Has anyone ever heard of an oil change (same oil I've been using for years) having that kind of effect on an engine? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

tkanic · January 2006

At first it sounds unrelated to the oil change, but thinking about it, did you check the oil level. too little OR too much could cause quite a bit of damage.

janice96 · January 2006

My 2000 Legacy has 1 or two bulbs burned out in dash for the speedomater.Has any one here ever taken apart this part of dash. If so is it a big deal to get into. My husband does most of my repairs,and unless I have to I would prefer not have to take it to Dealer.
Thanks

blackbean · January 2006

Same thing with my '02 Bean. I put in aftermarket bulbs that lasted about 10k, I put the originals back in and they have been good for almost 3 years and 50k.
Anticipating failure, I bought a back up pair of OEM halogen bulbs (Sylvania or Phillips I think) for about $5 each, but haven't needed them yet :-)

fibber2 · January 2006

Janice,

I would have to look at it in more detail in order to give you a definitive answer, but here is my first pass. Below the steering wheel is a lower trim panel that extends from the center console to the door. At the very bottom right hand corner (an inch from the center console) there is a single screw, and with the door open, there are two plastic screws. IIRC, there is also a plastic pop retainer somewhere in the middle that will make itself evident when you have removed the three screws.

With this panel removed, you have visual and 'hand' access to the rear of the instrument cluster. Someone else with experience needs to jump in here, but changing the bulbs shouldn't be too difficult from this point.

Steve

bluesu · January 2006

I have a 2005 Outback (cloth seats) and am disappointed with the ride quality and seat comfort particularly at city-street speeds of 20-35 mph. I hoped that the driver's seat would break in with use, but it decidedly has not. I noticed your posts and might try the Turanza tires, but wondered if you might have found any solutions yet to the hard seats? Did you try the gel pad? I am using a wedge memory-foam seat cushion with a tailbone cut-out but I may well bite the bullet and trade the Subaru in on something else. Also: has anyone tried relocating the mirror to a higher spot on the windshield? The Outback's mirror (even if I'm not sitting on an add-on seat cushion)is unusually low and blocks the driver's forward view. Thanks.

jfl · January 2006

Don't know about the '05, but in prior years the mirror was "double-jointed". It has a ball joint at both the mirror and window which gives it lots of flexibility.

Jim

fibber2 · January 2006

I had to do some 're-engineering' of the lumbar support (raised it's height by about 2") on my '02 OBW to make it more comfortable. Seat modification is not that big a challenge if you are even somewhat handy, and there are plenty of body shops that do upholstery work. Certainly far more cost effective than selling a year old car.

Same with tires. My experience with Bridgestone tires on several vehicles is that overall they transmit more road harshness and noise. Check Consumer Reports or TireRack, and look for something with an emphasis on comfort and quiet. You will probably give up some performance, but this might suit your needs better.

garandman · January 2006

I have a 2005 Outback (cloth seats) and am disappointed with the ride quality and seat comfort particularly at city-street speeds of 20-35 mph. ////Also: has anyone tried relocating the mirror to a higher spot on the windshield? The Outback's mirror (even if I'm not sitting on an add-on seat cushion)is unusually low and blocks the driver's forward view. Thanks.
Take it to an automotive upholstery shop if you like the car and see what they can do for you. The better ones can tailor the seat to you and it's not very expensive.

You can buy the adhesive to stick the mirror back onto the windshield at almost any auto parts store, or almost any glass shop will move it for a fee.

bkaiser1 · January 2006

Double check the air filter box -- it can be particularly stubborn to get back on properly, and if it's not sealed all the way around it will cause a "moo-ing" type sound on acceleration as the air gets sucked in around the seals. I've seen it happen quite frequently with the 2.5l motor here...simple and easy fix.

Brian

outbacklmt · January 2006

I have the same problem as you. Word for word and the Subaru dealer did a headgasket job on mine, at least thats what they said. Anyway, that did nothing to rid the smell. I just brought it back again and they said they don't smell it. They are the only ones that don't smell it. Did a pressure test and said they found nothing. What ever happened with yours? John

jay_24 · January 2006

The Outback's mirror (even if I'm not sitting on an add-on seat cushion)is unusually low and blocks the driver's forward view.

I talked to the guy when I last replaced the windshield. The mount comes factory installed on the glass and isn't easy to detach. Glue to put a new one on is cheap and available at most any parts store...

I rotated the mirror 180. Notice the post connects closer to the top than the bottom of the mirror. This raised the mirror right to the roof line. Th little lever to flip the mirror for night time driving is pushed right to the roof and basically can't be used.

works for me on my 01 Outback

--jay

jay_24 · January 2006

The Outback's mirror (even if I'm not sitting on an add-on seat cushion)is unusually low and blocks the driver's forward view.

I talked to the guy when I last replaced the windshield. The mount comes factory installed on the glass and isn't easy to detach. Glue to put a new one on is cheap and available at most any parts store...

I rotated the mirror 180. Notice the post connects closer to the top than the bottom of the mirror. This raised the mirror right to the roof line. Th little lever to flip the mirror for night time driving is pushed right to the roof and basically can't be used.

works for me on my 01 Outback

--jay

drgon · January 2006

Hello,
My Outback wagon (2002) got an accident two month ago and fixed (body work, replace radiator). After repair, I found coolant level in the coolant tank was decreased and smelled coolant burning. I brought it back to bodyshop and he said leaking from the upper hose between radiator and engine. So, he fixed it and test drove it and then said no problem. But, it wasn't. Happen again. Brought back again. Blame hose again and install new hose. I was nervous so check coolant level everyday after that. And I found it decreases again!! (but much lesser than last time). Brought car back again. Now, he changed the story. The leaking is from engin e head gasket. He called my insurance company and, after inspection, the insurance told me it seems not related with the accident. So, they don't want pay. They also said that they contacted several Subaru dealerships to ask whether this could be happen without accident and some of dealers told them it could be happen between 60,000 and 80,000 M (my car has 60K). Is it true?
Now, they say it would be possible that head gasket blown-up could be caused by driving a car after accident (I drove back to my house (0.2 miles) and towed to bodyshop). But there was no sign of overheating when I drove my car back to home (no change of temperature gauge, no leaking of coolant on the scene of accident). Also, I drove my car around 500 miles after the first repair. So, my question is if head gasket was the problem in the accident, the car has no problem for driving of 500 miles after that? I heard that, if head gasket is leaking, oil and coolant can be mixed and get into inside of cylinder and make some symtoms and engine failure. But I have had no problem to drive my car. Coolant can be leaked to outside of engine?

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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