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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • aviatorvisaaviatorvisa Member Posts: 21
    I have the same set of wheels as you but 20k fewer miles. I noticed the same thing with the temperature, passenger side is chilly when the driver side with warm....passenger side is warm when driver side is tropical. When I drive (which is most of the time), Mrs. Wifey wears a coat in the car and I use her as my coat rack. We're both happy that way, although I'd rather have even heat in the car. We already agreed that the next set of wheels is going to have dual zone climate control.
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    That's exactly what he said he found on alldata, but it included replacing the hose as well. But there's no repeat of the problem so far.
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Not offhand, but I'll check the receipt. But I don't suppose Subaru make their own clutch disks in any case.
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Just bought a new Innova 3030 code reader. Following the instructions I plugged in to my 00 OB, switched on the ignition ("Do NOT start engine") and it said "err1". Repeated the procedure and it said "error". Tried it on 99 Golf :) . Tried it on 04 Hyundai :) . Tried again on the OB :cry: . But my local mechanic's reader worked fine.

    So I returned it. The guy at the store didn't understand it because he has one and it's fine on his 02 WRX. They did not have a second unit for me to try. But yesterday the manufacturer responed to my complaint and said I should start the engine BEFORE plugging the unit in, contrary to their written instructions. Of course I can't try this now but has anyone experienced similar?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I think I have this same model.... an Innova something or other. I use it on my '96 OBW and plug it in BEFORE operating the key at all. As soon as I plug it into the port, the Innova unit turns on; I turn the car to "On," then press the read button, and viola - codes a-plenty (or not, hopefully!).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wrenchspin2wrenchspin2 Member Posts: 37
    I have a 96 Legacy wagon 2.2L 4AT that was manufactured in 10/95. Has 54K on it. Never any problems with it but now the CEL is on (not flashing but constant). I researched (spent hours on the internet in msg boards and obd2 web sites) and am led to believe that this model has OBD2 (and that even the 95 Legacy had OBD2). Finding that out, I borrowed an OBD2 scanner (Actron) from my friend, it has the 'standard' 16 pin connector cable on it. When I slid under the dash I could not find the female 16pin shaped connector to plug it into (and I thought this was going to be easy). I saw an odd shaped gray connector with about 7pins mounted on a metal support (to the right side of the steering and near the heating duct)that certainly did not look like the 16pin standard OBD2 connector. After researching more, is this gray connector possibly the connector that the Subaru Select Monitor Scan Tool uses? I also was a little confused in trying to identify what connectors are used to get a flashing light code if you dont use a scanner? I could not find any clear info about the connector colors or shapes to help identify them..only that there are supposidly two of them called a 'test connector' and a 'check connector' ??? I have a Chiltons manual and that just confused things a bit more, there was an electrical schematic that showed a "OBD2 Connector" and also showed a "Data Link Connector"...but trying to find those in real life under the dash was another story. Can anyone tell me what wires/connectors are used to just get the flashing code (location, color, shape)...and if there is a standard 16pin OBD2 connector under there someplace or is there perhaps some adapter that I need to use to plug into the gray pin connector that I found ? Thanks. :sick:
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Thanks, I was beginning to think that my passengers were going crazy! I have just been used to sweating while driving on occasions.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Wrenchspin, my '96 was manufactured in 8/95, but with the 2.5L rather than 2.2L. I have no reason to think that anything other than the engine is different on these two cars, so I will just state where my 16-pin port is located.

    If you look at the molding below and to the left of the steering wheel, you should see a small cover (rectangular) - this is a few inches lower than the mirror adjustment control. Pulling up on it should reveal the female port. I am not sure how else to explain its location (though if you continue to have difficulty finding it, I can photograph it to give you a definite reference), but if you extend your search beyond the molding and into the guts of the dash, you have gone too far!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • wrenchspin2wrenchspin2 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks XWESX, I feel a bit silly now, I must have gone right past the cover panel you mention. The car isn't mine (belongs to my F-I-L)so not that familiar with the interior, but I should have looked around better. It was dark outside and I went immed to under the dash with a flashlight (that is where the connector is located on my two vehicles so I assumed thats where it would be). I will give it another go tonight after work. I still am a little baffled on the CEL/MIL blinking light procedure I saw mention about connecting one connector to get the code (long flash is 10's , short flash is 1's...etc)and connecting 'both' connectors would clear the code. Are these test connectors also behind that cover panel door as well as the OBD2 connector? Thanks. :blush:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    The cover panel only has the 16-pin connector. I am not sure about a test connector - I have not explored it. The OBDII scanner I own will clear codes and reset the CEL, but I am not sure if it is limited to "constant on" codes or all codes. The scanner has an extensive manual that outlines every facet of the device, but I only read the part I needed at the time (I am often guily of that). :D

    Good luck.... hopefully your FIL's car does have that panel - embarrassment aside, it will sure make the job easier!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pyriliumpyrilium Member Posts: 7
    Subaru doesn't make their own clutches - they use parts spec'd from a company named exedy. My local wants to replace it with a part made by daikin, which seems to be a subsidiary of exedy. What I can't determine is how they stack up in terms of quality - I certainly don't want to get exedy's "bargain basement" part, given the reputation their OE part has.

    p
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    I too have '96 OBW. How do I find out when it was manufactured?
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    The driver door jamb should have a metal sticker type thing towards the bottom that has the build date and place of manufacture. Should be next to the sticker with tire pressures.

    -Brian
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    Thanks..................
  • wrenchspin2wrenchspin2 Member Posts: 37
    Yep, found the small cover panel and the 16pin OBDII connector was right there! Scanner came up with code P1702. Most DTC code explanations say "Auto Trans Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit"...I found one web site that said "Subaru- P1702 - Trans Range Sensor Intermittent Malfunction".
    My guess is/ sounds like the trans sensor/module took an intermittent hiccup. I cleared the code and will wait to see if the CEL comes back on again. If it does I will have to pursue.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Excellent and well done! Argh... transmission. Hopefully, if the problem recurs, repair will only involve a sensor and is not indicative of a looming mechancial failure. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    That's exactly the way it's supposed to work according to their instruction book. But it didn't.
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    Sorry pyrilium, there's no mfr on the invoice, just a part number Clutch Kit NU31538. Maybe this helps.
  • heart4himheart4him Member Posts: 6
    try Mr. Clean Magic eraser!! It cleans anything off of hard surfaces.
  • pyriliumpyrilium Member Posts: 7
    Goose,

    Thx for the part number. So far no matches (full number on google and yahoo gives 0 hits!), but I'll keep trying. My local mechanic is looking into the possibility of ordering either an exedy or act performance clutch, so I'm optimistic. He does very good work, and I think his objection to customer-supplied parts is based on a reluctance to install anything of questionable quality. I'll update as the situation warrants.

    p
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    s anyone else here unhappy with Subaru ABS ? I sure am!!!
    ///
    When I got home I drove the Outback around the block. Just as I thought. As soon as I hit the brake, the damn ABS kicked in and I almost slid through the intersection. Every time I tried to stop on snow the ABS would kick in. This happened with my last tires several weeks ago and now with my brand new expensive Yokohamas.
    Is there something wrong with my car or is this how over-sensitive Subaru's ABS is ???
    This is rediculous. Do I have to disconnect the ABS fuse when I drive in the snow?////


    No
    Possibly
    No

    What Yokohama tires? How many miles on them? Pressure? Last alignment?

    If you have a hyper-active ABS system, it's going to kick in early all the time, not just on snow.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I seriously doubt that the ABS is the problem, though it might be an indicator that something else is wrong (tires, etc). The ABS keeps the tires from sliding, it does not cause them to slide. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    the powertrain 5/60 warranty probably will cover it. they fixed my oil leak at almost 60K so I can't see why a coolant leak would be that different.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Has anyone installed a Nokia CK-7W or other bluetooth car kit in a 05+ Legacy or OB? Is there a competing model people are choosing?
  • maggieoutbackmaggieoutback Member Posts: 3
    I am also experiencing gasoline smells. It seems to be related to cold weather. The dealer tightened up the connections. He said that if that didn't work, they'd have to replace something. He also said that he had never had to do that on an Outback before, and only had to do it on an WRX once.

    It seemed to be better for a short while, but now is worse than ever. I have an appointment next week to bring in the car again and they are going to take a look.

    Has tightening up connections been sufficient for others?

    maggie
  • pyriliumpyrilium Member Posts: 7
    I'm trying to get the heater/ac control unit out of the dash of my '98 legacy wagon, and I can't find my service manual copy to get diagrams for removal. Can anyone post the relevant pages for getting to the climate control module, and maybe its disassembly?

    I'm trying to get in and replace the original backlight bulbs (now burned out) with LEDs like I just did for my heated seat control switches :)
  • wilkichwilkich Member Posts: 52
    I took the car to the dealer and you and another poster were right. Front seals leaking ($1100 including new timing belt and water pump), gaskets leaking ($400) and rear access cover ($800). Plus there are brake issues and the 90k service. All told, close to $3,000. Of course, the question of a new car comes up now but that's another story. One question, though, about the rear seal. I seem to recall some question as to whether this is misdiagnosed. Many times the oil blows to the back of the engine and it looks like a leak but really is not. The service person also said something about the cover being plastic as opposed to metal and that contributes to the leak.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Of all the seal/gasket leaks I have had to fix on my 2.5L over the years, never have I had a problem with the rear main. (Oops! Now it'll hit the fan....) You're right; regardless of where the leak occurs, it looks like it could be coming from the rear main on initial inspection. Both times I had the engine out of the car, the area around the rear was clean as a whistle on the inside, so it was all blown back/dripped down/oozed.. take your pick. ;)

    That is not to say that the rear main could not go, just that it (in my experience) is far more robust than the valve covers, cam seals, etc.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • oclvframeoclvframe Member Posts: 121
    :sick: Hi...its been a while since I have been on this forum...but now I am back due to some recent issues that have come up with my 01 LL Bean Outback. I now have approximately 116,500mi on it and it is currently in the shop awaiting its second right front drive axle replacement. For the second time (first at 60kmi) the inboard boot has a gaping hole in it. I am having them replace the entire axle since it would probably cost almost as much to re-pack both boots plus I am not really sure how long it has been torn. My understanding is that this boot is prone to damage since it sits right above the exhaust pipe. Has anyone else experience this kind of problem? Also, I attempted to replace the axle myself but it was a royal pain in the butt....at one point, after breaking the lower control arm loose from the axle assembly pulled out of the transfer case (I had not removed the roll-pin at this time). I am worried that the sub-shaft that the axle is pinned to may have had some sort of retention clip inside the transfer case. If that is the case, then it pulled off and its laying in my transfer case. Can anyone comment on this?

    Last, I understand that the timing chain on the h-6 should probably be replaced at about 150mi. Anyone replace one of these yet? How many miles are a realistic life expectance for it?

    Any help on these would greatly be appreciated!

    -r
  • alphajcalphajc Member Posts: 34
    Hi everyone. I have a 06 Subaru Outback 2.5i Base Wagon purchased in January.

    It now has 1900 miles on it and the engine makes a noticeable intermittent (on and off) ticking noise when idle and when coasting. It seems to go away after the engine is driven a good 5 minutes or so. Based on what I've read in the past this is most likely due to a piston slap or a belt tensioner issue.

    The ticking noise isn't very loud and can only be heard with the radio off. Should this be a concern? My Subaru dealer is 40 miles away and I don't want to take it in just for them to say "it's normal".

    Also the center console trim squeaks when driving on bumpy roads and the front doors develop a intermittent rattle aggrevated by rough roads. Are these all problems that Subaru owners learn to live with or can be fixed by the dealership?

    Thanks for your help.
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    Well there is no sound coming from the drivers side speakers both front and rear of my car. Do not know what it could be. Perhaps bad channel, wiring etc. who knows. Any ideas on this? If I need to replace the unit is there anywhere to get a good used radio system? (I really do not need an expensive radio,cd, mp3 nor satelitte type setup). Any suggestions on a new replacement, and where to have it installed in the New York City vicinity? How difficult would it be to install it myself and where could I get the instructions?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I know this is going to sound like a ludicrous suggestion, but did you check the balance knob on the radio.... perhaps it was turned by a gloven hand or something inadvertent? I think the balance is the knob closest to and below the on/off/volume knob. I rarely ever use mine, so if you have not used it, you can push on it and it will pop out to use.

    Barring that silliness; not sure what it could be to cause both speakers to quiet simultaneously unless, like you suggested, the left channel just went kaput on the head unit. I have a Sony receiver from '92 that likes to do that every so often. :mad: So, it is not an impossibility! I think I would just opt for a replacement stock unit - either eBay or a scrap yard should get you one fairly cheap compared to new replacements.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Concur with the E-Bay idea. I actually replaced my 04XT's with a combo tape / CD unit from a WRX. Tapes? What are those.. :P <- haven't gotten around to porting them all to CD's yet.

    BTW - the check the balance knob is a really good idea. I managed that in one of my Mercury's a number of years ago.

    Good luck.

    Larry
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    I don't have your other rattles, so the dealer should be able to fix those.

    I did and once again have the piston slap problem noise. At about 48k I had 2 pistons replaced on my 2001 because of bad noise for about 10 minutes on a really cold day (-15F). I could drive about 10 miles before the noise went away. The noise is back now at 85k but only on cold days (< 25F)and only for about a minute.
    From what I've read and from what the mechanic saw while replacing the first pistons, its not an issue, just a noise to live with.

    --jay
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    I wish it were the balance knob but...............Thanks. I will check out ebay and research installation options.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    That was my main issue with my wife's 03 OBW - the noise never went away, 10 miles or 200, cold, warm, hot, didn't matter.

    If it comes back and goes away after its warmed up, I'll not complain.

    Larry
  • jimmyjames4jimmyjames4 Member Posts: 2
    I think I've got the same problem on my 99 Outback w/ 86K miles. Just took it to the dealer for an oil change and asked about a similar oil burnoff smell coming from the engine. They said it was a leak around the rear separator plate, and I was quoted ~$550 USD for the repair (most of which is labor). Is this the rear seal you guys are referring to, or is this something different? Should I have the other seals, gaskets you mentioned checked too?
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    It now has 1900 miles on it and the engine makes a noticeable intermittent (on and off) ticking noise when idle and when coasting. It seems to go away after the engine is driven a good 5 minutes or so. Based on what I've read in the past this is most likely due to a piston slap or a belt tensioner issue.
    Just as a sanity check, you have checked the oil level? The H6 and turbos require an oil change at 3,000 miles. The h4 does not, but might be worth doing to see if it goes away.

    My old 97 made a lot of noise on cold starts unless fed Castrol.
  • iceman58iceman58 Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 1998 Subaru Outback with about 78k miles. Recently it has been hard starting, you turn the key and nothing happens. You give it a second or third try and it turns over. Had it in to independent shop on Friday, who checked the battery and gave it a okay, plus did a tune up and other stuff. Saturday Morning it does the same thing, you turn the key and nothing happens, you turn it a second or third time and it starts right up.

    What should we check now, Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
    Puzzled in Denver.
  • dcdingodcdingo Member Posts: 21
    We had the same thing this past summer with a 98 OBW. Eventually it would not start at all. A number of problems from a faulty ignition switch to low battery can cause this but I put in a new starter and that fixed it. I suspect the solenoid that pushes the starter shaft into position, before the starter actually turns, got sticky but the whole new starter unit seemed a simple fix. Best have someone check it out before you get stranded.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The shop did a poor diagnosis if in fact you described the problem as you did here. Checking the battery connections was a good idea but then they should have then gone immediately to the starter relay or starter motor and work backwards to the ignition switch itself. Tune up sounded like a waste of money and time given the symptoms.

    Battery sends current to the ignition switch, hence to the starter relay and starter motor.

    This symptom can also appear if you have a defective or intermittent clutch safety switch or with an automatic trans, a nuetral safety switch.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I'd say the same thing. A few months ago I helped out a gal at our local Sam's Club who was certain she had a dead battery. Another fella pulled up right about then with a big diesel pickup, so we jumped her off that, and still no response, though her system had more than enough juice. On a hunch, I grabbed my hammer and tapped her starter solenoid while she was holding the ignition to "start," and it fired right up. I suggested that she replace it very soon.... ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I know it's easy to be armchair quarterback but I'm wondering what that shop was thinking, unless they misheard the owner's complaint.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Well, I have had a couple other problems with the car failing to start that could have been attributed to the starter and that was not the problem, so maybe this shop has been stung in the past... ? Perhaps they tested it and it worked for them, so they ruled it out without enough repeat to get a fail? Hard to say, but a starter solenoid is always on my shortlist when it comes to a "no response" situation. With as cheap as a starter is to buy, it usually doesn't hurt to replace it - even on a hunch. :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • billatthebeachbillatthebeach Member Posts: 10
    I went to buy a 2006 Legacy awhile back but changed my mind because the ride was rougher than I wanted. They told me it's a purposefully sporty ride meant to feel the road. Does anyone know if it would be possible to put on smaller diameter wheels with the same diameter tire to have more tire between the wheel and ground to smooth things out a bit? (Hope I'm posting this in the right place.)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    It all depends on whether the smaller wheels would clear the brake calipers...
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    You might want to try another one, only have them set the tire pressure correctly fist. If you were road testing one with 40 psia I can imagine it would beel like a blinkin' truck.

    Lots of times they leave the wheels overinflated while cars set on the lot. Of course, if you already checked that, pretend I didn't write this. :)

    HTH

    Larry
  • 95clubwagon95clubwagon Member Posts: 4
    I have a '91 legacy with 195k on it, and have never had the Oxygen sensor or catalytic converter replaced. There are no faults, but I am wondering if I could improve the overall running of the car if I changed the sensor out. Will that be a problem if the Cat has never been changed either?

    Thanks,
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Interesting question, but probably not impossible to figure out. Larry & Wes already started the ball rolling.

    First check tire pressure and make sure that is OK. Second would be to consider switching to a tire with different characteristics. Periodically, Consumer Reports does a tire article, rating handling, ride comfort, noise, etc. Personally, I think the OEM Bridgestone tires are harsh and noisy, with only mediocre grip. On my last car (which also had Bridgestone tires), I switched them out for a set of Dunlop A2's, then Goodrich Touring TA's. Both made a huge improvement in both ride comfort and handling!

    Now for the big one - going with higher profile sidewalls by switching to smaller rims.... Going back to the 2000-2004 series Legacy and Outback, they used 15" and 16" rims. Now it is what, 16" & 17" ?? As Wes stated, you would have to measure the brake disk/caliper diameter and see if rims from a previous model fit. Maybe TireRack would have those figures at their disposal, as they do custom, oddball stuff. You need to pay attention to wheel offset, springtower angle, load & speed rating, etc., to insure that you don't get yourself into trouble.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    It is a lot harder to tell how healthly components are on OBD1 cars. With OBD2 you can hook up a PC based scan tool and read out parameters that would help you make a more informed decision.

    No question that at 15 years and almost 200k miles you are due a new sensor. It is probably well coated, dulling it's sensitivity and slowing it's response to A/F mixture changes.

    While the cat can also loose effectiveness if the platinum is damaged/depleted or smothered, usually this just raises emissions. Only if the honeycomb is clogged and causing increased backpressure will it adversely affect performance. It can happen, but you don't hear of it occuring often. I guess you could try unbolting it and see if the car runs better?

    Steve
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