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Comments
So I returned it. The guy at the store didn't understand it because he has one and it's fine on his 02 WRX. They did not have a second unit for me to try. But yesterday the manufacturer responed to my complaint and said I should start the engine BEFORE plugging the unit in, contrary to their written instructions. Of course I can't try this now but has anyone experienced similar?
If you look at the molding below and to the left of the steering wheel, you should see a small cover (rectangular) - this is a few inches lower than the mirror adjustment control. Pulling up on it should reveal the female port. I am not sure how else to explain its location (though if you continue to have difficulty finding it, I can photograph it to give you a definite reference), but if you extend your search beyond the molding and into the guts of the dash, you have gone too far!
Good luck.... hopefully your FIL's car does have that panel - embarrassment aside, it will sure make the job easier!
p
-Brian
My guess is/ sounds like the trans sensor/module took an intermittent hiccup. I cleared the code and will wait to see if the CEL comes back on again. If it does I will have to pursue.
Thx for the part number. So far no matches (full number on google and yahoo gives 0 hits!), but I'll keep trying. My local mechanic is looking into the possibility of ordering either an exedy or act performance clutch, so I'm optimistic. He does very good work, and I think his objection to customer-supplied parts is based on a reluctance to install anything of questionable quality. I'll update as the situation warrants.
p
///
When I got home I drove the Outback around the block. Just as I thought. As soon as I hit the brake, the damn ABS kicked in and I almost slid through the intersection. Every time I tried to stop on snow the ABS would kick in. This happened with my last tires several weeks ago and now with my brand new expensive Yokohamas.
Is there something wrong with my car or is this how over-sensitive Subaru's ABS is ???
This is rediculous. Do I have to disconnect the ABS fuse when I drive in the snow?////
No
Possibly
No
What Yokohama tires? How many miles on them? Pressure? Last alignment?
If you have a hyper-active ABS system, it's going to kick in early all the time, not just on snow.
It seemed to be better for a short while, but now is worse than ever. I have an appointment next week to bring in the car again and they are going to take a look.
Has tightening up connections been sufficient for others?
maggie
I'm trying to get in and replace the original backlight bulbs (now burned out) with LEDs like I just did for my heated seat control switches
That is not to say that the rear main could not go, just that it (in my experience) is far more robust than the valve covers, cam seals, etc.
Last, I understand that the timing chain on the h-6 should probably be replaced at about 150mi. Anyone replace one of these yet? How many miles are a realistic life expectance for it?
Any help on these would greatly be appreciated!
-r
It now has 1900 miles on it and the engine makes a noticeable intermittent (on and off) ticking noise when idle and when coasting. It seems to go away after the engine is driven a good 5 minutes or so. Based on what I've read in the past this is most likely due to a piston slap or a belt tensioner issue.
The ticking noise isn't very loud and can only be heard with the radio off. Should this be a concern? My Subaru dealer is 40 miles away and I don't want to take it in just for them to say "it's normal".
Also the center console trim squeaks when driving on bumpy roads and the front doors develop a intermittent rattle aggrevated by rough roads. Are these all problems that Subaru owners learn to live with or can be fixed by the dealership?
Thanks for your help.
Barring that silliness; not sure what it could be to cause both speakers to quiet simultaneously unless, like you suggested, the left channel just went kaput on the head unit. I have a Sony receiver from '92 that likes to do that every so often. :mad: So, it is not an impossibility! I think I would just opt for a replacement stock unit - either eBay or a scrap yard should get you one fairly cheap compared to new replacements.
BTW - the check the balance knob is a really good idea. I managed that in one of my Mercury's a number of years ago.
Good luck.
Larry
I did and once again have the piston slap
problemnoise. At about 48k I had 2 pistons replaced on my 2001 because of bad noise for about 10 minutes on a really cold day (-15F). I could drive about 10 miles before the noise went away. The noise is back now at 85k but only on cold days (< 25F)and only for about a minute.From what I've read and from what the mechanic saw while replacing the first pistons, its not an issue, just a noise to live with.
--jay
If it comes back and goes away after its warmed up, I'll not complain.
Larry
Just as a sanity check, you have checked the oil level? The H6 and turbos require an oil change at 3,000 miles. The h4 does not, but might be worth doing to see if it goes away.
My old 97 made a lot of noise on cold starts unless fed Castrol.
What should we check now, Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Puzzled in Denver.
Battery sends current to the ignition switch, hence to the starter relay and starter motor.
This symptom can also appear if you have a defective or intermittent clutch safety switch or with an automatic trans, a nuetral safety switch.
Lots of times they leave the wheels overinflated while cars set on the lot. Of course, if you already checked that, pretend I didn't write this.
HTH
Larry
Thanks,
First check tire pressure and make sure that is OK. Second would be to consider switching to a tire with different characteristics. Periodically, Consumer Reports does a tire article, rating handling, ride comfort, noise, etc. Personally, I think the OEM Bridgestone tires are harsh and noisy, with only mediocre grip. On my last car (which also had Bridgestone tires), I switched them out for a set of Dunlop A2's, then Goodrich Touring TA's. Both made a huge improvement in both ride comfort and handling!
Now for the big one - going with higher profile sidewalls by switching to smaller rims.... Going back to the 2000-2004 series Legacy and Outback, they used 15" and 16" rims. Now it is what, 16" & 17" ?? As Wes stated, you would have to measure the brake disk/caliper diameter and see if rims from a previous model fit. Maybe TireRack would have those figures at their disposal, as they do custom, oddball stuff. You need to pay attention to wheel offset, springtower angle, load & speed rating, etc., to insure that you don't get yourself into trouble.
Steve
No question that at 15 years and almost 200k miles you are due a new sensor. It is probably well coated, dulling it's sensitivity and slowing it's response to A/F mixture changes.
While the cat can also loose effectiveness if the platinum is damaged/depleted or smothered, usually this just raises emissions. Only if the honeycomb is clogged and causing increased backpressure will it adversely affect performance. It can happen, but you don't hear of it occuring often. I guess you could try unbolting it and see if the car runs better?
Steve